2013 Ford Fusion Rear Shock Replacement
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- čas přidán 5. 08. 2017
- **June 2018 Update**
The Monroe shocks are trash. Failed after 6 months. I put the OEM Ford Motorcraft ones instead.
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Replacing the shocks on my 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium with 2.0L EcoBoost. My car's rear passenger side shock went out at 68K miles. There was knocking and banging coming from the trunk area. This video shows how to replace the rear shocks on a 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium. This particular model is FWD and have 19" factory option rims, not sure if these instructions would work for the AWD version. I also presume this would work for at least 2013 and 2014 Fusions. The replacement shocks I used are Monroe model 5667.
**Torque Info**
At the time of the recording of this video I didn't have the torque specs handy. They are 66ft lbs for the top bolts that attach to the body and 35ft lbs for the lower bolts
Tools required:
15mm and 18mm sockets
15mm and 17mm wrenches
Ratchet
Breaker bar
cheater pipe (optional if you didn't skip arm day)
torque wrench
Loctite 242 (aka "blue" loctite)
WD-40 or other spray lubricant
M10 stainless steel washers (optional)
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Thank you, man, this video saved me $1350. My Ford dealership wants me to pay $1500 to replace one rear shock. after watching this video I was able to buy the necessary and a couple of hours of hard work but I got it done. I was even impressed by the result.
Thank you for sharing your experience with changing the rear shocks on your Fusion! I'm going to be working on my wife's Fusion next week. Afterwards my son and I (mostly him) will be doing the front brakes and bushings. $1600 for Firestone to do all 3 seems a bit steep for my budget. Your video and explanation are very clear and easy to follow. Much appreciated. Mike
Thank you for posting this video! I've been looking for this generation of Fusions to help me replace my shocks and had no luck for months. Hopefully my experience goes as smoothly as yours.
Did this myself after video. Surprised how well the bolts came out. I thought removing the top nut would be rough but it was good. I was replacing the upper mount which had gone bad and was giving a rattling noise. Was a quick job and no more rattle. Thanks.
Spraying the bolt heads is an exercise in futility. Spray the threads if you can and don't waste your lube if you can't.
The best installation video . This video needs more likes.
This was insanely helpful. Thank you so much for this
Thank you for your video!
My experience with a clunky rear shock absorber on a 2016 Lincoln MKZ (Hybrid):
First attempt: Tried tightening the shock absorber rod nut, but it didn't turn much and didn't resolve the sound.
Second attempt: Applied some penetrating oil and let it sit for a couple of hours. This time, without even holding the tip of the shock absorber rod, I could turn the nut with a 15 mm wrench for almost a full turn. I stopped tightening when the rod began to rotate with the nut. This resulted in more torque than the specified 22 lb.ft (possibly around 50 lb.ft). On a short test drive over a pothole, one of the shock rod ends broke off above the mount. It was clear that I had over-torqued the nut, causing the rod to reach tensile yield strength.
I ended up ordering OEM Motorcraft shocks and Dorman shock mounts from RockAuto. Inspecting the old shock mounts, I didn't notice any obvious damage, but I replaced them regardless. This resolved the clunky noise issue.
I didn’t remove the height sensors, and they weren't in the way. Additionally, I didn’t run the “Ride Height Calibration.” The car seems to drive fine. You might want to measure the height before and after to determine if a calibration is necessary.
Thanks alot. Fairly simple job, but was huge help, just finished. 2014 fusion, monroe rear shco from Amazon 64 CDN. Great
Thank You for posting this, it has saved me $320 as the shocks only cost $80 from Rock Auto and the service tech at Auto Plus in Lombard Illinois told me it was too dangerous to perform , but after seeing this i know now that was not the case. I had to cut a v into a hockey puck to jack the fusion up though , so i would not damage the car.
Awesome! Glad to help!
Awesome! First clear vid! Thx!
Thank you for the video was able to do it quickly and easily Great how to video
Thank you for this video, I was able to do it on my 16' fusion, the experience was exiting and saved me a bit of money from mechanic labor, Thank you...
It looks pretty Simple. Did you have any issues?
@@tap2chow916 😆 lol. That's awesome. Did you attempt the front Struts?
This video is awesome. Just finished this job myself. Those washers ARE REQUIRED with the Monroe shock. I picked some up for $0.50 from the hardware store.
Do you happen to know what size the washers are? I'll be replacing the two rear shocks on my 2016 Ford Fusion SE, thanks to these f'ing ohio junk roads, and while I'm at it, I have to replace my driver side lower control arm... but I'll be replacing both sides at the same time with the rear shocks as well.😊
Great video thank you very much
2013 Ford Fusion 110 000 km .Just completed drivers side replacement rear shock and mount .Everyting went well .However the top nut on the old origin shock would not budge to remove and use the old shield and rubber bumper.Even after soaking with penatrant using vice grips 15mil wrench with cheater bar. So plan B cut the shockrod with a hack saw to get the dust shield and bumper off the old shock.
The passenger side gave me trouble.The bottom bolts would not tighten.On examination of the bolt thread,they appeared mushed at the tips leaving me stranded until tomorrow when I can aquire 2 new ones and complete the install.
Tools used
18 mm socket top shock mount bolts
15mm socket bottom shock bolts
Hack saw
2 new shock nuts
WD 40
Tire removal. With solid nuts not capped. (originals are a pain )
First thing I changed over when I swapped out summer to winter tires.
Ratchet with extention 22 mm socket and Cheater bar for tire lug nuts
Cordless 3/8 Impact
Only drivers side rear was bouncing like a pogo stick.but figured change both at this milage.
Thanks for the vid.great job,helpfull.
Thanks for the video. Question, is there a rubber bushing inside the shock mount? Looking to replace my rear shocks because of a rattle near the top.
What size are the washers that you recommend, and how many should I use for each shock... doing both rear with both lower front control arms😊
I also forgot. The bottom of the shocks are not symmetrical. One side is sloped to match the bottom mount area so don't forget to put it in properly. Second, you need to tighten the top mount but after putting the car back on the ground. The weight will push the rod through even more so you will need to reach over the wheel and tighten it some more.
Do you know the OEM part number for the nut and 2 bolts that screw into the bottom of the OEM shock absorber? I put monroe shocks on but want to go back to the OEM and dont have the nut and bolts anymore. Thanks in advance.
W718772-S439 is the lower bolt and W713760-S440 is the nut
i think i did something wrong cause when i took it for a drive it makes weird sounds like clinking or popping idk sb pls help
maybe should have changed the top- mount as well ??
Does the clear plastic boot need to come off of the original one
The plastic cap? No it shouldn't. Only the spongy rubber bumper should be used
When do you recommend changing out your old ones? I have a 2014 hybrid Fusion. 107k on it. Just swapped out the front suspension chasing a noise. Swapped everything out since the car was open and up on jacks.
If you have 107k and are on the original rear shocks than yeah I would change them. From what I'm told the heaviness of the battery in the trunk makes them wear quicker
dayento2 thanks! And do you have to get an alignment after doing it? I know I need one from my front end suspension work
I put those same shocks that you are using on a fusion, both are leaking after less than 2 years
glad i just bought bilsteins for the back. however i did just buy monroe struts for the front.
I did all of this and I still have a small clunking noise as I hit a bump, do you think the strut mount bushing it self could’ve went bad? Great video btw!
That might be possible depending on your mileage. I have about 6k miles on the rear shocks I installed in the video and no issues. Do you hear the noise on every bump or just big ones like speed bumps?
Rio LaFlare sorry to bump such an old thread but I’m having this same issue with my fusion and want to order all the parts in one go. Thanks for any help!
dayento2 hello, if you might be willing to give me some advice, I heart the clunk loudly from both rear sides and that’s just at any speed whether high or low without any bumps present.
@@Love2watchVidsonYT replace shock mount
Very likely the mount on the upper side is bad. Common issue on Fusions.
Does the left and right rear take the same part?
typically yes. I am not 100% that is true for all fusions, but I think it is.
For anyone doing this 1. You do not need to remove the top shock mount from the car you can easily do everything that was done on the bench while it's on the car 2. DO NOT purchase monroe shocks those things are horrible, the reason he had to use washers was because the monroe shocks do not come with the proper hardware and they don't last mine lasted 5 months both sides were leaking oil....do yourself a favor and spend the money on Motorcraft shocks it's worth it in the long run you'll have everything you need to do the job properly. I have a video on what it looks like check out "Do not purchase monroe shocks"
He didn't move the white cap onto the Monroe shocks.
What happens if you don't use the washer's
The washers are only needed for the Monroe version of the shock. If you use the OEM Shock (which I suggest) you don't need them. If you don't use the washers, it'll be pretty hard to secure the nut in place.
Please. Can someone recommend any good shockings at online stores?
Get the OEM Motorcraft shocks
Looks the exact same as a AWD drive model except you see a axle going to the wheel.
I had new shocks and struts installed on my wife's car about 6 months ago. Now, there's a crazy rattle coming from the trunk area that we can't pin down. I had my son lay in the trunk while driving around and he swears it sounds like it's coming from one side of the trunk about 3-4 inches away from the wheel well. There's nothing under there where a rattle could be coming from (Sound like a metal object rolling back on forth or something like that). It seems like it's more likely to be the shock itself, but I hear no noises when I push the rear end of the car down. Yet, it sounds like a bad shock might be exactly what this is. I bought FCS shocks from Rockauto and thought maybe they're bad, but now I read that people are trashing Monroe also. What the heck is going on?
BTW: Can the top shock mount wear out?
Was it the shock mounts? These are known to wear out and make a noise exactly like you described.
@@atheism7 Yes it was! They had come slightly loose. The shop retightened them and all is well now.
@@martinschuessler1936 Glad to hear it's sorted.
Nice video. I have only done truck shocks and strut replacement so far. I am thinking about going with Bilstein B4 shocks in the rear. Have you done the front strut?? I think I need to replacement mine.
Good luck with the Bilsteins. I'm curious to see how they perform. Not too many 3rd party options for the Fusion. Stay away from the Monroes, the OEM Motorcraft ones are way better. I haven't done the front yet. They're not leaking but I probably should. I do know you need some beefier torque wrench as some of the bolts get up there in torque. Plus you would need a spring compressor tool.
KYB makes a descent set too
@@dayento2 agreed stay away from monroe. Stay away from all their products, they are junk
@@aab434 Same problem with the Monroe. I change it twice this year. Horrible
Buddy! I'm pretty sure you didn't move the white top cap from the old shocks to the new ones! The shocks have a white cap under the bellow/mount and above the shock itself that had to be moved.
I'm doing this repair myself right now. What is the purpose of the plastic cap?
@@johnthescout stops it from clicking.
Damittt😡😠😡😠... i just pushed the Monroe socks from Oreilly guess their going back😂😂😂did you needed to support the underneathlower control arm prior to removing the lower and top bolts.
Do we have to put the washers
If you're using the Monroe shocks yes. The nut that comes with the Monroe shock is too short, so you need to shim it higher using washers. The OEM nut doesn't fit on the Monroe shocks. If you're replacing the shocks with OEM Motorcraft shocks, you don't need washers.
Ok the mechanic did it but I don't think he used any washers and am getting a clunk sound . He said the shock mounted good and tight
Even changed the both mounts. Clunk only started after changing shock
I found that the Monroe still has a faint sound when installed. The OEM are way better. After 6 months I switched back to OEM
What size washes to get
Man, the 2012 and 2013 are so different. The 2013 is much easier to get to
Agreed monroe are garbage. Mine failed too, rides horribly now
I did all of this and I still have a small clunking noise as I hit a bump, do you think the strut mount bushing it self could’ve went bad? Great video btw!
Rio LaFlare yes
I’d bet it’s the stabilizer bar.
Did you get your fix I have the same problem
Changed shock and getting clunking sound still
???