soundin GOOD! for coming back to life. i have some motors, 1972 18hp, i have two im going to start on when the weather warms, they been sitting for a spell.
Those were great engines. My last one like that was stolen 20 years ago. Now I have a 1971 model . Basically the same. No glass fuel separator on the newer model.
I have watched a number of videos of people struggling with the recoil. You are the first person with the know how to clamp the darn thing before attaching the pull rope. Finally a smart mechanic. When you had it on the boat it seemed to be running roughly. Maybe missing on one cylinder?
Yeah, I’ve been lucky in that most of the lower units I’ve had were good. Sometimes I need to drill out and reinstall a new locator pin so the bronze bushing won’t spin. But that’s the most I’ve needed to do. Thanks for watching!
Glad you got it all going and nice to see the original Medallion still present as most of them are missing and people have put the one from the 1957 on a 1958 hood . Your Motor is a 1958 by the way. Any motor with that color scheme is 1958 opposite color scheme on the hood and a darker red is 1957.
Someone has changed the carb as it should have a sediment filter bowl under the float bowl. Also yes that float has been changed to updated plastic Float. I own a 1958 Johnson18hp FD-12. There is packing available for the needle valves .
Thanks! Now that the Fall is on us I will likely start fixing snowblowers as the old outboards dont sell in the winter. But I will surely stock up some cheap ones for next spring! More to follow!
Can't wait! Love the straight forward approach to filming and that you don't cut out to much. It's enjoyable to just hang out in the garage while you wrench. Hope to see this channel grow!
@@Alex_Willis right! Some outboard CZcamsrs edit through too much. People generally watch these to learn. There is one guy that I used to watch and he knows his outboards pretty good, but he's constantly fast-forwarding segments and so I pretty much stopped watching. The longer the better!
That sealer is not supposed to be used cause that plugs the holes for water to keep the engine cool . Also the plug wire bracket goes on the center bolt .
Might try soap testing the top crank seal, it looks rather oily up around in there. I'm doing a 1966- 18hp for that reason now. Part # 305987 OMC or 18-2018 Sierra
@@RetroVertig0 yes! For sure! I only noticed my need for a new crank seal while installing new points and condensers, I saw it was pretty oily so while I had the mag plate off I put some diluted dish soap around the crankshaft and turned it. Sure enough, it was blowing bubbles! 😆
That motor did not come with a fuel pump...someone put that on. It ran with a pressurized 2 line tank. Did they block off the pulse line that pressurized the gas tank??
Propeller should be 9 1/4 X 11 standard propeller . Also you should use brass shear pins you can make some save on the propeller . The propeller nut should be just finger tight.
I since changed it. It still held pressure too as I hit the threads with a bunch of sealer. But yes, not something one would want to leave on for too long.
Looks bit of a not good working here with that sanding stuff.. Just take a razorblaze that you have hand-balance to it by sharpening it. No need to scrape metal off. MasT OF MAst ON !
I’ve bought one already, but the built in noise gate made it a rough experience from an audio perspective (a very jagged on/off sound profile). Do you know of any that you could recommend, understanding that I want to keep the workplace ambiance? Appreciate the input!
My dad had one of those on a 18 foot alluminum richilne boat. We caught a lot of fish out of that boat. It did not have the rich and lean adjustment on the face. I think it was a newer model one. but mostly the exact same. I could ski behind it too. only 18 hp ours was blue. It was a little tiller motor. My dad would sit back there all day and troll and hold that tiller in one hand and fishing pole in the other. Good times for sure. Back way back when in the seventies. I bet it would have trolled slower if we had the low rich lean adjustments. You want to troll for fish pretty slow.
Yes probably. I also start with stock settings set rich. Boat I’m using is a 16ft StarCraft which is wayyyyy too much boat for this engine, but all I have for a test platform. I think all of the OMC engines without needle bearings in crank call for 24:1. Once I lean down the settings on the water on a boat that is better suited, it’s usually a pretty sweet ride!
Once i get it on a little boat i should be able to see. This one performed as well as a Gale i had running previously on the same boat. Scary fast once i got it on an emptyish 14' aluminum.
Rewind needs to be lubed and that screw has to be tight. And I see your spring is pouched . Also rewind is not original to the motor it should be the red holiday bronz color.
Its not rapping out man. Running too slow. carb is not opening up. hmm I dont know think that boat is too big for it but it dont sound like its running out. Maybe that carb is smaller?
I had my last 18 running on this boat at about the same performance. On this boat, it’s pretty heavy with a 70hp, trolling motor, 2x batteries, and its a 16ft. That’s why I think im Ok going this slow at WOT. The other 18 Hp (the gales from my other vids), performed the same on this boat, but were weapons when I put them behind a lighter 14ft. It was a little scary dailing in the carb at WOT on the 14ft. Lots of fun too!
You absolutely shouldn’t be working on anything, using silicone on a head gasket is some stupid shit! And thinking someone could learn from this is absolutely horrifying! Should’ve pulled the powerhead! An absolute slap in the face to old outboard mechanics such as myself!
Red RTV holds up on a header which gets way hotter than a head so I don't see it being the worst idea ever. And if it doesn't hold up then he can replace it later. Don't really see the big deal. It's an old outboard, not the space shuttle. #Don't get it right, get it running. #If it works, is it really a dumb idea?
😊this guy has no idea what he's doing.. first red sealer , then keeps putting gas on top piston then wonders why gas runs out lower unit then pulls and pulls like a idiot CHASING ENGINE all over the garage iam taking a shot!!! That he built the stand as well be better used as fire wood he a disgrace to the CZcams mechanics who actually show things right!! FULL REFURBISH??? Were in fuck did he do it in this video?.. should been called I WOUNDER IF I CAN GETIT GOING.
soundin GOOD! for coming back to life. i have some motors, 1972 18hp, i have two im going to start on when the weather warms, they been sitting for a spell.
Thank you for the work involved making this video. Addictive viewing.
Those were great engines. My last one like that was stolen 20 years ago. Now I have a 1971 model . Basically the same. No glass fuel separator on the newer model.
This one was fun to work on, I really like the old style cowling. But yes, basically the same engine up until early 70's i think.
Also Fuel Mixture is 24:1 Also a little bit of resistance should be felt on the needle adjustments.
Be diligent with adjusting the mag advance
I have watched a number of videos of people struggling with the recoil. You are the first person with the know how to clamp the darn thing before attaching the pull rope. Finally a smart mechanic. When you had it on the boat it seemed to be running roughly. Maybe missing on one cylinder?
Thanks for the kind words Leonard! Can’t take credit for that one though. But it been a helpful trick through the years!!
I really like these old motors and getting them to run is very satisfying. I’ve gotten many of them to run but the lower units is another story.
Yeah, I’ve been lucky in that most of the lower units I’ve had were good. Sometimes I need to drill out and reinstall a new locator pin so the bronze bushing won’t spin. But that’s the most I’ve needed to do. Thanks for watching!
I used Coppercoat on dad's "58". We ran it for decades, then I had to let it go on the sale when he passed
Hopefully this one will have the same longevity. We shall see.
Glad you got it all going and nice to see the original Medallion still present as most of them are missing and people have put the one from the 1957 on a 1958 hood . Your Motor is a 1958 by the way. Any motor with that color scheme is 1958 opposite color scheme on the hood and a darker red is 1957.
Someone has changed the carb as it should have a sediment filter bowl under the float bowl. Also yes that float has been changed to updated plastic Float. I own a 1958 Johnson18hp FD-12. There is packing available for the needle valves .
Love the old outboards. Keep the videos coming!!
Thanks! Now that the Fall is on us I will likely start fixing snowblowers as the old outboards dont sell in the winter. But I will surely stock up some cheap ones for next spring!
More to follow!
Can't wait! Love the straight forward approach to filming and that you don't cut out to much. It's enjoyable to just hang out in the garage while you wrench. Hope to see this channel grow!
@@Alex_Willis right! Some outboard CZcamsrs edit through too much. People generally watch these to learn. There is one guy that I used to watch and he knows his outboards pretty good, but he's constantly fast-forwarding segments and so I pretty much stopped watching. The longer the better!
@@ALVintageOutboards just checked out your channel. A treasure trove of useful outboard videos! Subscribed!
@@Alex_Willisawesome! Thank you, you have no idea 💡how much that means to me!
Love the video. Suggestion - turn off the radio. I want to hear everything u say. :)
Thanks for then suggestion and kind words. I did recently get a good lapel mic. Should clean up my audio significantly for any future vids.
Cheers!
There should be an O-ring on the end of the drive shaft and grease when you put it back in.
That sealer is not supposed to be used cause that plugs the holes for water to keep the engine cool . Also the plug wire bracket goes on the center bolt .
It's a 1958 and it's my favorite 'Font'!
Some sweet graphics for sure!
Might try soap testing the top crank seal, it looks rather oily up around in there. I'm doing a 1966- 18hp for that reason now. Part # 305987 OMC or 18-2018 Sierra
Yeah I think this one needs a bit more “spiffing up”. For now, happy that I got it from zero to running.
@@RetroVertig0 yes! For sure! I only noticed my need for a new crank seal while installing new points and condensers, I saw it was pretty oily so while I had the mag plate off I put some diluted dish soap around the crankshaft and turned it. Sure enough, it was blowing bubbles! 😆
Thank you for this video I've learned so much . Now I can take apart my 1957 18hp evinrude with confidence hopefully they are the same
The confidence bit is a mask I must wear well. Glad you liked it and hope it helps!!!
Those older O.M.C's were fairly easy to build, and easy to get a couple more "horses" our of.
I like try and stick to the same(ish) models. I find them faster to turn around that way, and spare parts keep piling up!
@@RetroVertig0 too bad I cleared mine out before I found you...all wasted because no one wanted "old Johnson parts"
Bummer....Johnson/ Evercrude will always be my favorite
That motor did not come with a fuel pump...someone put that on. It ran with a pressurized 2 line tank. Did they block off the pulse line that pressurized the gas tank??
Yeah the guy had it blocked off. Looks like a bolt with Teflon tape.
To put the head back on remove the lower pan at the back of the motor it is held on with small screws.
On the bottom of the gear case you can use some allen head bolts as I have changed mine over to some.
Propeller should be 9 1/4 X 11 standard propeller . Also you should use brass shear pins you can make some save on the propeller . The propeller nut should be just finger tight.
Wow i can't believe that your leaving that o-ring on the screw like that on the bottom of the bottom end .
I since changed it. It still held pressure too as I hit the threads with a bunch of sealer. But yes, not something one would want to leave on for too long.
Looks bit of a not good working here with that sanding stuff.. Just take a razorblaze that you have hand-balance to it by sharpening it. No need to scrape metal off. MasT OF MAst ON !
Two words for you, "Wireless Mic".
I’ve bought one already, but the built in noise gate made it a rough experience from an audio perspective (a very jagged on/off sound profile). Do you know of any that you could recommend, understanding that I want to keep the workplace ambiance?
Appreciate the input!
Better put that in a pail of water or the water pump will be wrecked as soon as it starts
1958 FD12 18hp and propeller should be a 9 1/4 X 11 by OMC.
Sounds to me like it's only firing on one cylinder...shouldn't be that hard to start if both cylinders are firing
I think I pushed water into the carb/fuel pump when I was washing it. Following that first start it’s one or two pulls even after sitting for a bit.
My dad had one of those on a 18 foot alluminum richilne boat. We caught a lot of fish out of that boat. It did not have the rich and lean adjustment on the face. I think it was a newer model one. but mostly the exact same. I could ski behind it too. only 18 hp ours was blue. It was a little tiller motor. My dad would sit back there all day and troll and hold that tiller in one hand and fishing pole in the other. Good times for sure. Back way back when in the seventies. I bet it would have trolled slower if we had the low rich lean adjustments. You want to troll for fish pretty slow.
I think the Evinrudes of this era were blue? All good motors though!
You had an Evinrude, probably early ‘60s.
@@RetroVertig0 Yes it was a blue Evinrude
Yes it was.
Not original robbertson screws should be common flat screw driver .
It seems to be running a bit rich would that be because you're using a 1:24 fuel mix?
Yes probably. I also start with stock settings set rich. Boat I’m using is a 16ft StarCraft which is wayyyyy too much boat for this engine, but all I have for a test platform. I think all of the OMC engines without needle bearings in crank call for 24:1.
Once I lean down the settings on the water on a boat that is better suited, it’s usually a pretty sweet ride!
It needs high oil! Keep it right there!!
You did forget a screw on the front of the air box .
I think maybe it was not there to begin with. I did notice it was missing though.
Also should not have a fuel pump and run off of a pressurized double hose fuel mile master.
Are you sure BOTH cylinders working? It doesn't sound right to me, but I'm not an expert.
Once i get it on a little boat i should be able to see. This one performed as well as a Gale i had running previously on the same boat. Scary fast once i got it on an emptyish 14' aluminum.
1958.only year for that Color scheme .
Rewind needs to be lubed and that screw has to be tight. And I see your spring is pouched . Also rewind is not original to the motor it should be the red holiday bronz color.
Its not rapping out man. Running too slow. carb is not opening up. hmm I dont know think that boat is too big for it but it dont sound like its running out. Maybe that carb is smaller?
I had my last 18 running on this boat at about the same performance. On this boat, it’s pretty heavy with a 70hp, trolling motor, 2x batteries, and its a 16ft. That’s why I think im Ok going this slow at WOT. The other 18 Hp (the gales from my other vids), performed the same on this boat, but were weapons when I put them behind a lighter 14ft. It was a little scary dailing in the carb at WOT on the 14ft. Lots of fun too!
This guy has NO training and no clue and is going about this all wrong. RESURFACE BLOCK AND HEAD
Thanks for the interest Arthur. Always appreciate view points from the pros!
Why would you not put a new gasket in instead of using the old one . Thank God you don't work on my stuff
Really appreciate your comment and insight Ralph. Thanks for watching!
You absolutely shouldn’t be working on anything, using silicone on a head gasket is some stupid shit!
And thinking someone could learn from this is absolutely horrifying!
Should’ve pulled the powerhead!
An absolute slap in the face to old outboard mechanics such as myself!
Yeah, red RTV on an old head gasket made me raise an eyebrow too.
Red RTV holds up on a header which gets way hotter than a head so I don't see it being the worst idea ever. And if it doesn't hold up then he can replace it later. Don't really see the big deal. It's an old outboard, not the space shuttle. #Don't get it right, get it running. #If it works, is it really a dumb idea?
😊this guy has no idea what he's doing.. first red sealer , then keeps putting gas on top piston then wonders why gas runs out lower unit then pulls and pulls like a idiot CHASING ENGINE all over the garage iam taking a shot!!! That he built the stand as well be better used as fire wood he a disgrace to the CZcams mechanics who actually show things right!! FULL REFURBISH??? Were in fuck did he do it in this video?.. should been called I WOUNDER IF I CAN GETIT GOING.
Always nice to get the unvarnished thoughts from the pros. Thanks for watching!
Great to see that your passion for this wonderful hobby approaches or exceed mine! Cheers and thanks for the insight!