Pretty amazing how OMC provided their obsolete 15 HP powerheads as of 1957 when the larger 22 CI 18 HP came out for their production line to Gale Outboards( All OMC Parts ) who made Viking. They used them right up into the1960S. Also never seen anybody use low tension points sets by knocking out the pin thats good trick if you stuck and cant get the correct ones. You did good on those two motors so simple and so nice as the old saying goes they dont make them like that anymore motor sounds good ...... P.S. Also I think in 1963 or 64 they changed the insulating coating on the coils and virtually every OMC built motor after that mostly all the coils are always good and last many years.....
Yes. I tend to gravitate towards this era of engines because to me they seem so easy and cost effective to work on, and pretty risk free to for a buyer once all of the kinks are ironed out. Interesting how it is no coincidence that all coils on both of these engines were annihilated, where all coils I have had from engines in the late 60s were in fine shape. I'll also add that I really appreciate these supportive comments coming from a guy who clearly knows his stuff, judging by your user name and the content on your channel. 🍻🍻🍻🍻
I like your channel. Suggestion: Get some new hand tools and clean-up the shop a bit. You don't have to be a neat freak, but some of your screwdrivers I wouldn't use to open old paint cans. One other thing: Use something other than a screwdriver to remove the packing (o-rings, etc), from the bottom of an internal hole in soft castings-threaded or otherwise; An L-pick (an old one from your dentist works great), a pair of fine-nose hemostats, toothpick, X-Acto knife (#11 blade), will all work to one degree or another... and save the hole's interior details from destruction. Good luck, you have excellent content.
Ha! Thanks. Appreciate the feedback and concur. I do this between the margins of life and lie to myself that I will clean up before the next project. Now that it is confirmed that people actually do notice these things. I will need to rethink my prep between videos beyond the current ‘drag the next POS in and have-at-er’ approach. Cheers
Just my thoughts but if you're going to clip one end of the spark wire why wouldn't you clip the coil ends? Your cam wiper felt looks shot too. I always remove the mag plate, clean it thoroughly and re-grease the pivot area. Replace the spark wires & boots. Use a coil locator to get the proper air gap. If you must re-use the points, just clean them up nice with some 400/600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. They were probably just corroded or dirty from years of sitting. Just my thoughts and everyone has their own way. Great content on your video 👌
Totally is OMC. It’s essentially a rebranded Gale. Gale were US and sold in dept stores, Viking is the Canadian rebadge of the same engine sold in dept stores.
First off the front coil is for the top cylinder , second you didn't tighten the mag plate back up , third the safety bar is for neutral to stop from over revving in neutral ! Gale made a good outboard or should I say OMC did ! lol
The new coils from Seirra often have improper size laminates. i have had to grind them down to fit. Keep the old ones and you can swap just the coils if need be. @@RetroVertig0
Ive taken OMC coils which are inexpensive & removed the coil only opened the square hole slightly and slipped them on old 1950S Mercury coil laminates. Motor doesnt know the difference nice blue white spark & the motor runs great. Old Mercury coils are $129/pc cheapest I could find ,ridiculous I think Wico made them same as old Elgins. @@RetroVertig0
Denis, just getting back at this after a few months away. I appreciate all of you comments and points. Will certainly keep them in mind when I start cranking on outboards again in the spring/summer. Thanks for watching and taking the time to offer all of this great insight! Your comments and advice will I doubt help me complete projects faster and with higher confidence in The future. Cheers 🍻
I had new ones so I wanted to eliminate any variables. I sell these in the end of it all so if a part is suspect I just replace it. Better for everyone that it doesn't come back with a failed part that i should have replace. Makes for a good bit of video as well!
Pretty amazing how OMC provided their obsolete 15 HP powerheads as of 1957 when the larger 22 CI 18 HP came out for their production line to Gale Outboards( All OMC Parts ) who made Viking. They used them right up into the1960S. Also never seen anybody use low tension points sets by knocking out the pin thats good trick if you stuck and cant get the correct ones. You did good on those two motors so simple and so nice as the old saying goes they dont make them like that anymore motor sounds good ...... P.S. Also I think in 1963 or 64 they changed the insulating coating on the coils and virtually every OMC built motor after that mostly all the coils are always good and last many years.....
Yes. I tend to gravitate towards this era of engines because to me they seem so easy and cost effective to work on, and pretty risk free to for a buyer once all of the kinks are ironed out. Interesting how it is no coincidence that all coils on both of these engines were annihilated, where all coils I have had from engines in the late 60s were in fine shape. I'll also add that I really appreciate these supportive comments coming from a guy who clearly knows his stuff, judging by your user name and the content on your channel.
🍻🍻🍻🍻
I like your channel. Suggestion: Get some new hand tools and clean-up the shop a bit. You don't have to be a neat freak, but some of your screwdrivers I wouldn't use to open old paint cans. One other thing: Use something other than a screwdriver to remove the packing (o-rings, etc), from the bottom of an internal hole in soft castings-threaded or otherwise; An L-pick (an old one from your dentist works great), a pair of fine-nose hemostats, toothpick, X-Acto knife (#11 blade), will all work to one degree or another... and save the hole's interior details from destruction. Good luck, you have excellent content.
Ha! Thanks. Appreciate the feedback and concur. I do this between the margins of life and lie to myself that I will clean up before the next project.
Now that it is confirmed that people actually do notice these things. I will need to rethink my prep between videos beyond the current ‘drag the next POS in and have-at-er’ approach.
Cheers
Just my thoughts but if you're going to clip one end of the spark wire why wouldn't you clip the coil ends? Your cam wiper felt looks shot too. I always remove the mag plate, clean it thoroughly and re-grease the pivot area. Replace the spark wires & boots. Use a coil locator to get the proper air gap. If you must re-use the points, just clean them up nice with some 400/600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. They were probably just corroded or dirty from years of sitting. Just my thoughts and everyone has their own way. Great content on your video 👌
On the points when you put the new ones one a bit if grease on the post have been nice .
Has a suspicious resemblance of an O.M.C
Totally is OMC. It’s essentially a rebranded Gale. Gale were US and sold in dept stores, Viking is the Canadian rebadge of the same engine sold in dept stores.
10.23 there was a spark!!!
Your right!!! I didn’t see it when I was doing it originally. The coils were still torn to bits so not too fussed that I went under the flywheel.
First off the front coil is for the top cylinder , second you didn't tighten the mag plate back up , third the safety bar is for neutral to stop from over revving in neutral ! Gale made a good outboard or should I say OMC did ! lol
Thanks for the pro tips and support. I have a 57 Johnson 18hp coming up next. Look forward to your thoughts on my handy work with that ones
Does your thickness gauge not have a .020? I see you using several to add up to .020. Just curious why not just use the single .020
Save those old coils for the laminates
I've heard of this before. Is it like a how when you buy an alternator they give you a core deposit?
The new coils from Seirra often have improper size laminates. i have had to grind them down to fit. Keep the old ones and you can swap just the coils if need be. @@RetroVertig0
Ive taken OMC coils which are inexpensive & removed the coil only opened the square hole slightly and slipped them on old 1950S Mercury coil laminates. Motor doesnt know the difference nice blue white spark & the motor runs great. Old Mercury coils are $129/pc cheapest I could find ,ridiculous I think Wico made them same as old Elgins. @@RetroVertig0
That points set is for like a 1970's 9.9 Sierra 18-5141 is the wrong set
Some grease on the end of that drive shaft. And some vaseline would have worked on that rubber grommet as well.
Denis, just getting back at this after a few months away. I appreciate all of you comments and points. Will certainly keep them in mind when I start cranking on outboards again in the spring/summer. Thanks for watching and taking the time to offer all of this great insight! Your comments and advice will I doubt help me complete projects faster and with higher confidence in The future. Cheers 🍻
@@RetroVertig0Yw
Great stand. Fir or pine?
Blue spruce.
You should have just cleaned the original points.
I had new ones so I wanted to eliminate any variables. I sell these in the end of it all so if a part is suspect I just replace it. Better for everyone that it doesn't come back with a failed part that i should have replace.
Makes for a good bit of video as well!