I got the 160 because of the flexibility & it was recommended by a guy that professionally tunes modern hemi's for a living. My temps are typically in the 180-185 range because of the tune but if I wanted it a little cooler on a super hot day it can be done. Either way Donny, good stuff! Keep up the good work
Tune is definitely key to that 160 since you did end up going with it. Does the engine run a little hotter with the cam? For your application I agree that the 160 was the way to go
The way you’re using that thing I 100% agree the 160 was the way to go - you have a beast of a car man - your channel is awesome too. Keep that content coming!!
I live in a texas and 180 is a must. Idk about 160 but 180 doesn’t make my car overheat. Before I installed my thermostat my car was overheating. I would idle for a little while then my car would be overheating. I’m not sure if it’s related but I had smoke coming out of the tailpipe when I was idling in the hot sun for awhile but after I changed the thermo it doesn’t idle as hot anymore and no smoke. Temperatures in texas for the summer is insane so the colder the engine the better during summer.
That's good advice and very surprising to get from a a young person usually people your age give really shity info and they don't know what the hell they're talkin about I applaud you
I went with a 160* stat in my 04 ram hemi cuz in south florida stock will over heat your engine i would be idling at a light and it would be half way above the line and if i gassed it hard it would always peak past the line its a absolute must in hotter climate
I’ve run the stock stat, then 180 and 160 both with a tune. 160 is by far best when tuned. I live where it’s cold. Don’t wear shorts in winter. Heater is fine Hemi runs 185 all day. Trans stays cooler. Biggest benefit of lower stat
Tstat temp rating is a science. Depending on your climate a 160 is better than 180 in other areas 195 is better than a 180. The Tsta is only a door that allows water that is beyond the selected temperature to leave the engine. It’s the radiators job to cool the water. The Tstat or the radiator don’t care how hot the water entering the engine is. The Tstat is the engines exit door the water pump is the engines entrance door. So running a Tstat that is to low temperature can actually raise engine temperature. With a lower Tstat degree the radiator has less time to radiate the heat so the water entering the engine isn’t as cold as a higher Tstat due to water being locked in place allowing the radiator to radiate the heat and allow the water to cool. So a driver running a 140 Tstat in Phoenix AZ will overheat compared to a driver in Minot ND who’s running a 195 Tstat has an engine never going above 180. In AZ outside air temp over 100 takes longer to radiate heat @ 75mph compared to ND outside air temp under 90 @ 55mph on the same day. So in reality the AZ driver driving in 100+ temps daily may get an overall cooler engine running a 185 Tstat than his buddy driving next to him running a 160 Tstat. Furthermore engine coolant mixture changes warming/radiating values in water more than a Tstat does. A driver in Phoenix AZ could safely easily run a 5% coolant to water to drastically accelerate radiate times than the Minot ND driver who has to run a 50/50 mixture so not to freeze up in winter. Again depends on your climate and raw air temperatures on what will net the best results. It’s far more than changing the Tstat rating. The Tstat is merely the gate keeper, the radiator, coolant mixture, outside air temp, and airflow dictate how hot/cold the water entering the engine are. The Tstat only lets water OUT doesn’t care if water entering is hotter or colder than what it lets out. It just won’t close if water isn’t colder than Tstat so a Tstat to low will be just like running no Tstat. At first engine will not warm up to operating temp but eventually all coolant will be to hot and just like in the 60’s you’ll be steaming on side of the road
I can´t agree that, because even the thermal expansion of the metal, the parts, the heads/gaskets....it´s all a little different between the different parts and materials... And especially the 5.7 GEN 3 HEMI´s between 2006-2008 (& earlyer) has that issue that the valve seat rings can drop out the aluminium heads..what is mostly that case when the engine was running on mds on the highway and was switched off at the gas station..then started the HOT engine again to drive again but then the valve seat ring/s dropped out of the head/s and there it is... And so we can see that the valve seat rings had to be a little bigger than they are, and would be cold down before pressed into the aluminium heads...that they had to get a thighter fitting. or even the heads gets a to high temperature, especially in the section of the combustion chamber, when the engine was switched off in hot condition. and to get a better cooling it is neccessary to tune the system. tune it with a little thinking about how you could "fi that issue" without dissasambling the engine and change the valve seat rings to a little larger ones in the machine shop (what was the best but most expensive fix for that, especially when it isn´t sure that this engine would have that issue with dropping valve seat rings.) And so i was thinking about that issue, and how i could "fix that" without take down the heads and change the valve seat rings to lager ones at the machine shop. My 1st option was to take an 180°F/82°C Thermostat. and now i´m thinking about to do more to cool the engine down at this sections of the combustion chamber. So i´m also looking for sensores that would work with the 82° thermostate to get the fan working on this temperature, too. I´m still working on this in the moment. Because i´ve a beautyful 2006 Charger R/T Daytona what has an really nice condition, especially for the age and the mileage of 136.000. I would not get dropping valve seat rings ;) I´m from bavaria (ger) and imported that car to make a nice daily with a little custtomizing (19x10.5 VORS TR4 Wheels in glossy black for front&rearend + 255/45 & 285/40 R19 Tires. and BC coilovers...) But that´s another story, now i´m talking about why i think that a 180°F Thermostat isn´t a bad thing. I´m also looking for a custom wather pump what makes a higher, faster flow of the coolant. Even especially to get the heat away from the sections of the combustion chamber. Because there is this problem and it´s EVEN BETTER, when you could get a better cooling in this section/s. And to get the engine temperature high in the fastets possible time is a bad regulation thing of the bad politics...That´s nothing about if an engine would be better when this is the case that it could warm up faster. It was better when the temperature at the combustion chamber isn´s so hot/ --> You´ve the whole cooling system to geht the heat away from the combustion chamber. There is the most heat and there an engine can fail when the temperatures are to hot there. And when the most people thinking about to geht more power when the engine it´s cooler, than this is the case in the right temperature level. I´ve an Alfa Romeo 156 with the 2.4 JTD 20V inline 5 Cylinder Commonrail Diesel, an engine sereis that is solid as an rock. I had 4 Alfas with this engine and all had over 450.000 - 850.000km on the combi when i sold it with the 1st turbocharger, 1st clutch, 1st gearbox, 1st engine what was never opened and that without any oil consumption or leaks + that i drove it very very hard, mostly in motorsport conditions and daily they saw always over 240 km/h on the speedometer...Solid as an rock and this engines are running at 75°C at the most time and they´ve a REAL water temp. gauge. (what isn´t so i the most cars; they go on 90°C after warm up and aren´t showing the real water temp.) and the temp goes up to 90°C when i drove this cars in ver very hot weather conditions or even when i was racing it. but the most time they´re running on 75°C what is really ordinary for this engine series....And how i sayed, this engine series is solid like a rock. And the Hemis should be optimized in the section of the combustion chamber; To get the temperatures lower at the valve seats/valves/combustion chamber. Thats importand..Not to get a fast heating up the water temp; that´s only importand for the bad regulations...
My mechanic put in a 18x degree thermostat in my 08 Aspen hemi, instead of the stock 203. It's a common Mopar switch, did it in our 5.9 too. But this motor developed a valve slap, it was sudden and a result of full throttle at perhapa full temp as it was -20F in Fargo. It had 200k on it and continues to run with the slap. Stick with what the maker put in it in today's motors, especially high performance. 203 always seemed a little to close to overheating
I used a milodon 160 thermostat in my 360 magnum carbureted setup, and I’m at this very moment boiling it in water to test it. Truck Was getting hot, didn’t seam to be opening. Well needless to say it’s not opening in boiling water temps. This is brand new outta the box from summit racing.
In the winter were i live most car engines cant get up to 180 degrees so the thermostat never opens and no heat! thats why you want a 160 degree thermostat ! the thermstats 160 degrees is the temp your thermostat opens at leting hot water and antifreeze go through the heater core ! a fan blows air through the heater core and then heat comes out the vents! got it now?
That doesn’t make sense. The reason that the thermostat doesn’t open until 203 is so that the engine can heat up reach operating temperature. By your logic, you’re trying to remove heat before the engine is at the optimal temperature, which doesn’t make sense. The thermostat allows the coolant to flow to the radiator and expel heat to the surrounding air. You have it backwards but you’re close
160 degree stat for me. I always get longer oil changes better power and mileage and much longer longevity. Of course you do have to get a custom tune and in northern climes you may not get good heat in the winter. But I live in Texas so heat isn't a problem. 160 stat def. the way to go. As for emissions: if you run the stock stat you WILL blow a head gasket at 100000 miles and then be blowing blue and black smoke all over the place! If you run a 160 with a proper tune you can go 200000 miles and still run strong no problem no smoking and no emissions problem either!
So anyways, the real reason or the reason for the vehicle running At 203°F is strictly to keep emissions down because the hotter you can keep that engine is the hotter. You can keep those cylinders and engineers want to keep them as hot as they can without creating a pre ignition scenario, or pre detonation which could cause cylinder misfires. even with the added spark plug for each cylinder The engineers needed to ensure the hemi engines would meet stringent EPA regulations regarding emission controls. The truth of the matter Is the optimum operating temperature for maximum horsepower and performance is right around 180° temperature definitely not 160 as you were mentioning. When an engine is run too cool it could cause improperly atomized fuel from the fuel injectors to sit on the cylinder walls, similar to condensation outside of a cold toilet bowl in the middle of a hot humid summer. Not all of the fuel would be burnt which could cause some of it to be washed away during the combustion process into the crank case causing an oil delusion scenario. This would further breakdown engine oil a lot sooner than had the engine been running a little bit warmer not to mention the piston rings may not expand and contract as they were designed. This could lead to premature cylinder wear. Running 160° thermostat could also put strain on the engine oil by the coolant being cooler than the engine oil could cause a natural heat sink with oil doing most of the cooling and As it would normally.
I slapped a 170 thermostat on a 4.7 couldn't be any happier runs better it has lil more torque and less chances of dropping a fkn valve seat So I'm going to slap a 170 thermostat on 5.7 hemi Jeep and a hellcat supercharger and get it tuned
@@DonnySRT just wondering are you going to do any major mods to your car? To be honest I'm looking to sell my 6.4L camshaft I was going to use it but I decided to go with a different build direction if you know any looking for one I will sell mine for $40 online its about $70-$100
To be honest I will say something *IMPORTANT* does HEMI engines knows that in my country the temp is above 130 F {54C} ? This is crazy right ? lol My engine temp is above the half it's like 60% with the 180 Thermostat !!! That's why we need to put 160 thermostat lol.... but for other countries that doesn't have high temp in summer I guess 180 thermostat is more than enough. Thank you
lol do you really think he knows what you're doing in there? He probably has no clue? He may not even be looking at you? He may be looking at the car behind you? Maybe looking further past your vehicle? You could be on your phone for all he knows, or singing to a song. I wouldn't let somebody rent space in your head for free by overthinking, what someone may or may not be doing? Misinterpreting is the same as assuming and we all know what assuming does? Well, I sure as hell do! Ask me how I know? 😮
I got the 160 because of the flexibility & it was recommended by a guy that professionally tunes modern hemi's for a living. My temps are typically in the 180-185 range because of the tune but if I wanted it a little cooler on a super hot day it can be done. Either way Donny, good stuff! Keep up the good work
Tune is definitely key to that 160 since you did end up going with it. Does the engine run a little hotter with the cam? For your application I agree that the 160 was the way to go
And thank you by the way!
@@DonnySRT I installed the 160 with the Cam so not 100% sure if the temps would've been any different w/ the new cam.
The way you’re using that thing I 100% agree the 160 was the way to go - you have a beast of a car man - your channel is awesome too. Keep that content coming!!
Also think about this. If your coolant is running 203 or higher your trans temps will be higher also.
Great video.. but the end of your video was hilarious 🤣
I live in a texas and 180 is a must. Idk about 160 but 180 doesn’t make my car overheat. Before I installed my thermostat my car was overheating. I would idle for a little while then my car would be overheating. I’m not sure if it’s related but I had smoke coming out of the tailpipe when I was idling in the hot sun for awhile but after I changed the thermo it doesn’t idle as hot anymore and no smoke. Temperatures in texas for the summer is insane so the colder the engine the better during summer.
That's good advice and very surprising to get from a a young person usually people your age give really shity info and they don't know what the hell they're talkin about I applaud you
Thank you Bryan, I appreciate the kind words!
I went with a 160* stat in my 04 ram hemi cuz in south florida stock will over heat your engine i would be idling at a light and it would be half way above the line and if i gassed it hard it would always peak past the line its a absolute must in hotter climate
What if my 2009 5.7 came with a 195° stock thermostat?
Thanks for explaining the pros and cons
No problem bro, thanks for watching
I’ve run the stock stat, then 180 and 160 both with a tune. 160 is by far best when tuned. I live where it’s cold. Don’t wear shorts in winter. Heater is fine
Hemi runs 185 all day. Trans stays cooler. Biggest benefit of lower stat
Tstat temp rating is a science. Depending on your climate a 160 is better than 180 in other areas 195 is better than a 180. The Tsta is only a door that allows water that is beyond the selected temperature to leave the engine. It’s the radiators job to cool the water.
The Tstat or the radiator don’t care how hot the water entering the engine is. The Tstat is the engines exit door the water pump is the engines entrance door.
So running a Tstat that is to low temperature can actually raise engine temperature. With a lower Tstat degree the radiator has less time to radiate the heat so the water entering the engine isn’t as cold as a higher Tstat due to water being locked in place allowing the radiator to radiate the heat and allow the water to cool.
So a driver running a 140 Tstat in Phoenix AZ will overheat compared to a driver in Minot ND who’s running a 195 Tstat has an engine never going above 180. In AZ outside air temp over 100 takes longer to radiate heat @ 75mph compared to ND outside air temp under 90 @ 55mph on the same day.
So in reality the AZ driver driving in 100+ temps daily may get an overall cooler engine running a 185 Tstat than his buddy driving next to him running a 160 Tstat.
Furthermore engine coolant mixture changes warming/radiating values in water more than a Tstat does. A driver in Phoenix AZ could safely easily run a 5% coolant to water to drastically accelerate radiate times than the Minot ND driver who has to run a 50/50 mixture so not to freeze up in winter. Again depends on your climate and raw air temperatures on what will net the best results. It’s far more than changing the Tstat rating. The Tstat is merely the gate keeper, the radiator, coolant mixture, outside air temp, and airflow dictate how hot/cold the water entering the engine are. The Tstat only lets water OUT doesn’t care if water entering is hotter or colder than what it lets out. It just won’t close if water isn’t colder than Tstat so a Tstat to low will be just like running no Tstat. At first engine will not warm up to operating temp but eventually all coolant will be to hot and just like in the 60’s you’ll be steaming on side of the road
Mines got 192 degree thermostat is that good
I can´t agree that, because even the thermal expansion of the metal, the parts, the heads/gaskets....it´s all a little different between the different parts and materials... And especially the 5.7 GEN 3 HEMI´s between 2006-2008 (& earlyer) has that issue that the valve seat rings can drop out the aluminium heads..what is mostly that case when the engine was running on mds on the highway and was switched off at the gas station..then started the HOT engine again to drive again but then the valve seat ring/s dropped out of the head/s and there it is... And so we can see that the valve seat rings had to be a little bigger than they are, and would be cold down before pressed into the aluminium heads...that they had to get a thighter fitting. or even the heads gets a to high temperature, especially in the section of the combustion chamber, when the engine was switched off in hot condition. and to get a better cooling it is neccessary to tune the system. tune it with a little thinking about how you could "fi that issue" without dissasambling the engine and change the valve seat rings to a little larger ones in the machine shop (what was the best but most expensive fix for that, especially when it isn´t sure that this engine would have that issue with dropping valve seat rings.) And so i was thinking about that issue, and how i could "fix that" without take down the heads and change the valve seat rings to lager ones at the machine shop. My 1st option was to take an 180°F/82°C Thermostat. and now i´m thinking about to do more to cool the engine down at this sections of the combustion chamber. So i´m also looking for sensores that would work with the 82° thermostate to get the fan working on this temperature, too. I´m still working on this in the moment. Because i´ve a beautyful 2006 Charger R/T Daytona what has an really nice condition, especially for the age and the mileage of 136.000. I would not get dropping valve seat rings ;) I´m from bavaria (ger) and imported that car to make a nice daily with a little custtomizing (19x10.5 VORS TR4 Wheels in glossy black for front&rearend + 255/45 & 285/40 R19 Tires. and BC coilovers...) But that´s another story, now i´m talking about why i think that a 180°F Thermostat isn´t a bad thing. I´m also looking for a custom wather pump what makes a higher, faster flow of the coolant. Even especially to get the heat away from the sections of the combustion chamber. Because there is this problem and it´s EVEN BETTER, when you could get a better cooling in this section/s. And to get the engine temperature high in the fastets possible time is a bad regulation thing of the bad politics...That´s nothing about if an engine would be better when this is the case that it could warm up faster. It was better when the temperature at the combustion chamber isn´s so hot/ --> You´ve the whole cooling system to geht the heat away from the combustion chamber. There is the most heat and there an engine can fail when the temperatures are to hot there. And when the most people thinking about to geht more power when the engine it´s cooler, than this is the case in the right temperature level. I´ve an Alfa Romeo 156 with the 2.4 JTD 20V inline 5 Cylinder Commonrail Diesel, an engine sereis that is solid as an rock. I had 4 Alfas with this engine and all had over 450.000 - 850.000km on the combi when i sold it with the 1st turbocharger, 1st clutch, 1st gearbox, 1st engine what was never opened and that without any oil consumption or leaks + that i drove it very very hard, mostly in motorsport conditions and daily they saw always over 240 km/h on the speedometer...Solid as an rock and this engines are running at 75°C at the most time and they´ve a REAL water temp. gauge. (what isn´t so i the most cars; they go on 90°C after warm up and aren´t showing the real water temp.) and the temp goes up to 90°C when i drove this cars in ver very hot weather conditions or even when i was racing it. but the most time they´re running on 75°C what is really ordinary for this engine series....And how i sayed, this engine series is solid like a rock.
And the Hemis should be optimized in the section of the combustion chamber; To get the temperatures lower at the valve seats/valves/combustion chamber. Thats importand..Not to get a fast heating up the water temp; that´s only importand for the bad regulations...
What fan settings would you use on the 180 degree thermostat on the 6.1
I got the 5.7 and 180 tstat. Got a mopar radiator and a dormam 620-039XD fan assembly. Mine are set at 187 and 196
My mechanic put in a 18x degree thermostat in my 08 Aspen hemi, instead of the stock 203. It's a common Mopar switch, did it in our 5.9 too. But this motor developed a valve slap, it was sudden and a result of full throttle at perhapa full temp as it was -20F in Fargo. It had 200k on it and continues to run with the slap. Stick with what the maker put in it in today's motors, especially high performance. 203 always seemed a little to close to overheating
Hemis run around 203 degrees because they are really air dirty engines and the hotter it runs the cleaner the burn.
07 Gc Srt Here
....its at 215 to 220 idle...iwas told its normal..nothing to worry about.
I used a milodon 160 thermostat in my 360 magnum carbureted setup, and I’m at this very moment boiling it in water to test it. Truck Was getting hot, didn’t seam to be opening. Well needless to say it’s not opening in boiling water temps. This is brand new outta the box from summit racing.
I am sorry to hear that! At least it's an easy install - just annoying dealing with the coolant
Use mishimoto tstat much better quality i also got mine from summit
haha bloopers are always fun.
Seriously tho that dude was watching me for like 5 minutes haha
Even with a 160 it runs around 185-195 when its hot
In the winter were i live most car engines cant get up to 180 degrees so the thermostat never opens and no heat! thats why you want a 160 degree thermostat ! the thermstats 160 degrees is the temp your thermostat opens at leting hot water and antifreeze go through the heater core ! a fan blows air through the heater core and then heat comes out the vents! got it now?
That doesn’t make sense. The reason that the thermostat doesn’t open until 203 is so that the engine can heat up reach operating temperature. By your logic, you’re trying to remove heat before the engine is at the optimal temperature, which doesn’t make sense. The thermostat allows the coolant to flow to the radiator and expel heat to the surrounding air. You have it backwards but you’re close
160 degree stat for me. I always get longer oil changes better power and mileage and much longer longevity. Of course you do have to get a custom tune and in northern climes you may not get good heat in the winter. But I live in Texas so heat isn't a problem. 160 stat def. the way to go. As for emissions: if you run the stock stat you WILL blow a head gasket at 100000 miles and then be blowing blue and black smoke all over the place! If you run a 160 with a proper tune you can go 200000 miles and still run strong no problem no smoking and no emissions problem either!
What’s actually adjusted with the tune in relation to the tstat? Fan settings?
@@DonnySRT can you answer the tune question please? I was told the fan settings is the only thing that needs to be tuned, but I'm not sure.
Escalade 6.2 engines knock if not up to temperature 🤒. I don’t know what that is about.
Partly wrong you don't rev at cold start because fluids need to circulate first or you can destroy bearings cooler temps increase HP heat loses power
So anyways, the real reason or the reason for the vehicle running At 203°F is strictly to keep emissions down because the hotter you can keep that engine is the hotter. You can keep those cylinders and engineers want to keep them as hot as they can without creating a pre ignition scenario, or pre detonation which could cause cylinder misfires. even with the added spark plug for each cylinder The engineers needed to ensure the hemi engines would meet stringent EPA regulations regarding emission controls. The truth of the matter Is the optimum operating temperature for maximum horsepower and performance is right around 180° temperature definitely not 160 as you were mentioning. When an engine is run too cool it could cause improperly atomized fuel from the fuel injectors to sit on the cylinder walls, similar to condensation outside of a cold toilet bowl in the middle of a hot humid summer. Not all of the fuel would be burnt which could cause some of it to be washed away during the combustion process into the crank case causing an oil delusion scenario. This would further breakdown engine oil a lot sooner than had the engine been running a little bit warmer not to mention the piston rings may not expand and contract as they were designed. This could lead to premature cylinder wear. Running 160° thermostat could also put strain on the engine oil by the coolant being cooler than the engine oil could cause a natural heat sink with oil doing most of the cooling and As it would normally.
I slapped a 170 thermostat on a 4.7 couldn't be any happier runs better it has lil more torque and less chances of dropping a fkn valve seat
So I'm going to slap a 170 thermostat on 5.7 hemi Jeep and a hellcat supercharger and get it tuned
MMX has a 192 thermostat
That's probably the best option to choose when upgrading this part
@@DonnySRT I have a 180 in my rt
Yea me too - luckily mine has been going strong so far, I see a lot of people opting for that 192 now that you mentioned it
@@DonnySRT my 180 worked fine until winter lol then I had little problems with the operating temps but could use a tune to fix it to work properly
@@DonnySRT just wondering are you going to do any major mods to your car? To be honest I'm looking to sell my 6.4L camshaft I was going to use it but I decided to go with a different build direction if you know any looking for one I will sell mine for $40 online its about $70-$100
To be honest I will say something *IMPORTANT* does HEMI engines knows that in my country the temp is above 130 F {54C} ? This is crazy right ? lol My engine temp is above the half it's like 60% with the 180 Thermostat !!! That's why we need to put 160 thermostat lol.... but for other countries that doesn't have high temp in summer I guess 180 thermostat is more than enough. Thank you
lol do you really think he knows what you're doing in there? He probably has no clue? He may not even be looking at you? He may be looking at the car behind you? Maybe looking further past your vehicle? You could be on your phone for all he knows, or singing to a song. I wouldn't let somebody rent space in your head for free by overthinking, what someone may or may not be doing? Misinterpreting is the same as assuming and we all know what assuming does? Well, I sure as hell do! Ask me how I know? 😮
160 is better than 180
160 is a night and day difference.
@@extremedrivr it will keep the engine always cold
Grab the thermostat from hemifever lmao