Summit Flat Tappet Lifters EXPOSED
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- čas přidán 25. 06. 2022
- there's a set of lifters I was going to run in the blower motor and decided not to after finding out that the crown isn't enough for the cam.
I usually do take all my lifters apart chamfer all the holes and scotch bright all the surfaces before using them and filling them with 20W50 Valvoline racing. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Rhoads Lifters. All I’ve used for 40 years. American made. Oil groove optional on the side to lube the cam. Snap ring keeper instead of a box staple. Did run a set of comp Lifters once. They pumped up and blew 9 of the box staple keepers out on the first 6k hit. Pulled them, installed Rhoads and never looked back. 9 Comp lifter keepers in the pan of a $15k motor. Good times!
THAT SUCKS SO BAD, we the people of the automotive world want the quality they instilled in their products in 1965,we want perfection or damn near it,then we can turn the rpms up,and way up,my race engine is set up to turn 7200 every pull,don't want to think about a flat cam,up until lately never had lifter problems,send CHINA AND THEIR TOY PARTS HOME,we want quality,for ever not too much to ask beings we are paying through the nose
I just had a set of new Summit Lifters in my sbc 350. They were part of the Summit 1103 cam kit. All the lifters pumped up hard after pre-oiling the engine with a distributor drive. The lifter plungers would no longer depress. (pumped up solid).
I pulled them out and got a set of genuine GM OEM Lifters to go in it. The GM lifters are MUCH better. If your going to run a Hydraulic flat tappet cam, get the GM lifters or, better yet, go with a roller cam.
I bought the same 1103 cam recently to use on (Eagle crank) 383 going into my '72 Vette block after the pages of good reviews I read there. Bought the package so the springs would match and as soon as I looked at those lifters with weird surface I figured they were just that way but now seeing this and reading your post, I will try a return and locate an 80's -90's set. Thx!
Who can afford lifters 250 Dollar per piece?
Please don’t take any notice of this guys opinion re faces of those lifters. For a very detailed analogy of lifter issues search for Powell Machine Inc- Lifters. I guarantee you’ll be amazed and shocked at what they reveal particularly face angles and concentric grinding. Also of interest is their new coating process DLC coating which they will be offering shortly. Also check out their video on Cam Cores. Should be compulsory viewing for all engine builders😉
Hm ok 👍
But I've also never had a cam lifter failure.
This was hard to watch, I never seen such a dis-organized video, did you swallow a squirrel? 🤣
I suffer from ADHD and this was when I started making videos. Nobody's perfect at videoing especially when your use to actually working on stuff and not worried about TV
🤣👍
Use the side of another lifter to check for crown. We just built a stock small block chevy and we ordered Melling cam and melling lifters. They had a decent crown. Melling was a oem supplier.
'Was' an OEM supplier. Melling is junk. Same as Mexican Sealed Power-Speed Pro. Melling is NOT 100% USA. They have problems with casting hardness and porosity. You can't just hold them perpendicular anymore. Even if they 'look' like the crown is sufficient they could still wipe. All these failures are these 2 brands. There's ONLY 1 100% USA made Hydraulic lifter Mfr left. Hylift Johnson in Muskegon MI. Johnson Lifter in Taylor MI makes excellent lifters but ONLY roller now. Both have a laser etched ID on the body. If it doesn't have that, it's not made in the USA. I'd wager that those 'Summit' lifters are Melling.
@@vincemajestyk9497 Johnson is a very old company and about 40 or so years ago I worked at a local engine rebuilder and that's all we used. Never a flat cam or bad lifted. I didn't think they were still in buisness.
@@michaeledge8905 It's a strange and convoluted story. The ORIGINAL Johnson tappets from then went bankrupt and was out of business. I believe they were in western Mi. Another company in the Detroit area started up under the 'Johnson Lifters' name in Taylor, Mi and began producing lifters again. A couple years later, Topline Automotive out of Chicago bought the machinery and remnants of the 'original' Johnson lifters and started making them again as 'HyLift Johnson' lifters in Muskegon, MI. They cast and make all their lifters 100% in the USA. BOTH used to manufacture high quality hydraulic and solid flat tappets and rollers. Several years ago the Taylor, MI Johnson dropped their flat tappet line to focus on rollers. Presently HyLift Johnson (Topline Automotive) in Muskegon is the SOLE U.S. Hydraulic lifter manufacturer. You can go to their web and buy direct or from one of the listed re-sellers. Most reputable cam grinders use them and you can ask. They're laser etched with the 'Johnson' name.
The garbage lifters are the soft Melling and Sealed Power Mexican made lifters. Most of these 'Failed' lifters are re-boxed Mexican ones. I haven't seen 'Chinese' lifters since the early 2000's.
Most of these cam failure videos feature these 'speed shops' CHANGING NOTHING and using the same PARTS and PROCEDURES that failed 2 or 3 times and doing it again hoping for a different result. CRAZY! Figure out what you're doing wrong! A lot of times you can't tell by just 'checking' the lifters. They use 'imported' castings and finish them in the US. There's porosity and hardness issues you can't 'see'. If you have a 'weak' cam it's a crap shoot. Maybe it will maybe it won't survive.
I seen one guy in a video showing off his 'replacement' Comp Cam and lifters that were the exact same as the one's that went bad twice before and used the same junk lube. Most REPUTABLE grinders have been using Johnson for over 15 years and NO PROBLEMS. Ask them.
@@vincemajestyk9497 That's a great bit of information that maybe should be shared with Comp Cams because several people have been getting screwed buy their products lately. There's a CZcamsr up in Canada who just got made love to on his 454 with that company and it cost him a lot plus all the work. I believe he is DD racing or something like that. Uncle Tony's Garage has also been screwed over and went to rollers and they wouldn't pump up.
I just got screwed by Edelbrock which is Comp Cams in an Edelbrock outer box for their performer rpm kit. It lasted ONE FRICKIN HOUR before a lifter went bad and killed a lobe. Gee thanks assholes, I had to wait 8 months, 8 FRICKIN MONTHS in covid world to get this junk that lasted 1 hour and now it has to come out and be torn all the way down to a bare block and all bearings replaced and the crank surface inspected. A lot of labor and expenses in my immediate future.
I recently broke in an Iskendarian small Chevy cam with the expensive Iskendarian lifters, and break -in went good. I also put weak springs temporarily on the heads, and used Summit 30W break-in non-detergent oil. I block the oil filter bypass so if there is an issue, the bearings and crank are not damaged.
Thank you so much. Im am tearing my 318 down now. In tha process of installing a summit cam and those very same lifters. Now ima mail it back to summit. I hear hughes cams are still made correct.
Assembled a turbo Buick 231 with an edelbrock 5487 kit about 3 years ago. 8000 miles on it and no lifter or cam lobe issues. I always polish the cam lobes to a shine and the same with the bottom of the lifters on any flat tappet engine I've put together. I also always use real break-in oil, no issues seen yet.
I have never had a lifter failure. But then again I inspect all my parts and disassemble them to clean and debur.
lifters have to match the cam taper a .0015 taper is all that's needed, too much taper and you will have less contact area. if cam taper is .0015 in those lifters are fine, you cant just look at one side of the equation
You work with the precision of a guy trying to thread a needle wearing catcher's mitts on both hands.
Maybe a surface plate and an indicator would be better than your cold rolled steel “inspection plate”.
He's biching about quality in a shop with benches stacked with stuff. Barely a spot to make a video!
The plate was after I checked it with a carbide straight edge. You dont need bare hands to use your eyes.
@c103110a have ever been to a machine shop?
After all the years of some experience and others that had issues,if I ever run another flat tappet cam I will only use morel or Johnson hylift can't go wrong with either of those 2
What happened to parts? I never had problems in the mid 90's with lifters!
I've used Rhoads lifters myself for years even put a set with 5,000 miles on them used on a brand new cam still that engine runs perfect
Not a fan of Rhodes but some people like them and have good experience with them. 👍
Always wondered about the summit lifters, glad I never bought any after seeing that. My last comp cams cam/lifer kit used I checked the crown on the lifters and all of the lifters had quite a bit of a crown to them, no problems out of them either.
Good to know thank you 👍
I just built a ford 390 with a crower cam & I used summit flat tappet lifters & have no problems. Runs like a champ
@@jesseduke694 Which crower cam did you go with?
@@MattsRageFitGarage it's called a compu-pro group 2 390 cam. 270 dur. It's 210 dur @.050 intake & 220@ .050 exhoust. Valve lift was .486 intake & .502 exhoust on a 112 LSA. It is advertised with alil more lift than that but when I degreed it that's what I got. It might be advertised with a 1.76 rocker were im using a 1.73 rocker. It's not a very big cam but I can tell you I am shocked at the performance! I didnt have it dynod but my guess is 350hp would be low ballin it. I have it in a 71 f100 4x4 shortbox with a 4spd & 4.11 gears. It's a screamer!
@@jesseduke694
Some of the lifters I measured were ok not all were bad.
Also the cam is angled as well this pushes the cam to the back of the engine.
This is the exact same problem we found
I can honestly say I never had a flat tap at failure. However I do only a handful of engines a year because it takes a long time for me to do my engines. I also don't use off the shelf grinds maybe that plays a part in it, I don't know 🤷
I didn't know to check for crown.
I guess the days of assembling an engine straight out of the box are gone.
It's been years since I've built an engine, and I've only done a dozen at most, but I always just put the parts in, never checked ring gap, degreed cam, or inspected parts, never had an issue. Parts quality just isn't there anymore.
I take everything apart nowadays I take my lifters apart and deburrum you'll be surprised what you find in them. Oil pumps, and all. Even measure the cams
You'd best check your parts, slave labor is used to make them and there's no import duties so importers are raking $$ in.
Interesting, I just measured the Chevy lifters I pulled out of my ‘73, and measured about 2 thousands of crown, no idea how old they are
How much taper total with cam taper combined?
It varies from manufacturer. I look for 45r - 69r on the shaft.
I haven't seen less than .002 from center of lifter. Ive seen as much as .006
Some aggressive cams can be .005. but usually. 002-.004 is the norm.
It all depends on lifter bore and how fast the grinder wants the valve to open and close. Remember its not just the lift and duration effecting valve opening.
Save the money in the long run and just go to a roller. The days of the Flat tappet junk are at an end.
Never had a problem woth flat tappets. Or course I scrutinize all my parts before install. I also take some 1000 grit to the cam and lifters to get rid of the sharp edges.
I got the same lifters from a jegs kit. They are made by elgin. I pulled the motor after 25 miles for a rear main seal that was too long (another problem) and one of the lifters had a stripe starting to wear on the face. Glad I caught it now. This is a epidemic
Terrible 😔 glad you caught it when you did.
Elgin has turned to selling Chinese junk.
@@inscoredbz
Remember its not Chineseium. I have bought direct from overseas and they built it to your specific specifications. It the machining we do to it
Well I guess they mean what they say when they sell them as FLAT tappet lifter.
😆
This kind of crappy machining has been going on for a long time and getting worse....no quality control. Worked for Chrysler when aluminum 392 hemi blocks came out. A customer who bought 2 came back very angry....they didn't cast the oil galleries into either block. Put a gasket on and drilled...no galleries.....how do a batch of engine blocks get released in that condition?
Wow 😳.
I built 340 dodge last month with summit cam and lifter and wiped out 4 lifters.
Torn the engine back down and rebuilt it again but with comp cam and lifter and same issues wiped 3 lifters.
Seems to be having issues with all lifters.
Didnt you check the crown? Or the tapper of the cam before install? I have yet to have One problem out of flat tappet cams.
Did you check and correct lifter bore index? Sounds like you’re fixing the damage, not the problem.
had the same problem on my 360
@@dougbutler5734 its a bad feeling to have an engine apart and thinking your getting the best for the money and it turns to crumbs.
To say a engine has a index problem with the lifter bore is far fetched in a world with millions of blocks with hundreds of thousand of miles on them. With no issue. All blocks are NOT perfect and dont need to be. They dont even have to within spec. Indexing is internet hype, and scare tactics to spend money on something you dont need to consider.
I ruined the new cam in the break in process right out of the box. The problem is cam companies aren't making their own lifters. They are getting them from inferior companies. Mine was a comp cam. Supposedly the best in dirt track cams. Whipped out in 15 minutes.
Why would you want to run a hyd flat tappet cam in an engine with a blower anyway?
It may be a hydraulic lifter but the way I run them is not orthodox. 🏁
Sometimes it's not just the taper on the lifter. Sometimes the taper on the camshaft is wrong too. Personally I wouldn't use Summit lifters if I was runnig a cam that was much larger than stock. They have wire retainers where the pushrod cup is. They can and do break or come apart. If I was bent on using Summit lifters,I'd swap out the wire retainers for snap rings. Years ago I had a Comp Cams 268H & Summit lifters after about 15-20k miles the wire retainers began popping off.Could not keep the valves adjusted engine sounded very clacky.Luckily the wire retainers stayed in the valley. If I ever build another engine, I'm going roller cam & lifters and not worry about wiping out the cam. There's just too many problems with flat tappet camshaft and lifters now. They're never going to make better flat tappet parts because they probably really want to phase the old technology out. You could probably send the lifters to a machine shop. somewhere that can regrind them with the proper taper. I'd check the cam too before you install it. It's probably made in China too.
I send out all the camshafts I have from pull outs of engines to get reground. I ask the cam grinder to give me max that can be ground and from there I design my own specs. The cams are 50-75$ each and lifters are matched to the cam for 2-3$ each.
As for the retainers I take them out in my race engines.
was there ever a part 2 to this video ?
Yes, it got lost when my phone was crushed.
I have the phone still I just didn't see the need to go further. I return the lifters and got a better set.
If I find the video I'll be glad to post it.
@@firstrespondergarage Great, I would love see it, but you can't you can't. Thanks.
I have used 6 summit cam kits in mine and my sons motors and yet to have any issues!
I don't have any issues either but I also inspect all my parts and take them apart to deburr them. I simply got tired of running into this type of stuff all the time so I did a video. I'm familiar with cheap lifters and these are cheap lifters bottom line. And they'll work on a small camahafts all day long but like anything else if you want to push the limits you got to dig deep
@@firstrespondergarage yes, that’s a great idea! I have a comp cams solid lifter camshaft in one of my motors, and after breakin I always pull the valve covers and make sure everything looks OK. I noticed one of the rockers looked drier than the rest took it apart and the lifter did not have an oil supply hole in it. 😳
@@operatingengineer thats a good way to double check 👍 🍻
Im having problems with my summit lifters right now half aren't oiling and a couple are shooting oil like crazy
So you try to rotate the motor one revolution and see it that works?
@@firstrespondergarage what an I looking for?
What am I looking for?
@@slaskey
Just have someone rotate the motor over as you prime it. The lifter needs to cycle when first primed to feed the oil. Happens all the time with fresh lifters.
In have a couple thousand miles on build pulled valve covers to check valve lash and noticed it will engines running
You know... I've never had a problem with summit they didn't make right - going on 3 decades.. Did you pick up the phone, or race to your camera? So a little focus: resellers are not manufacturers, and remanufactured lifters the last few years have been a problem for everyone. Anyway, thanks for focusing on what to look for. The unseen problem of these regrinds is more than a botched radius that might not spin correctly- a regrind removes hardened surface, and unless carburized again [or other process] re-man lifters can be a gamble.
I agree.
The camera is to document, and educate. I never said they didnt make it right. Summit is just a high price middleman. There are ways to resurface and harden. A lost art with the throw away world we have been a custom to. Many ppl think Chinesium and that is just BS. We spec out the product and finish grind. Its on us to inspect and verify as builders or machinists, not just have blind faith in someone elses unsupervised programing. Maybe America will wake up and stop being lazy, or possibly to late since at birth kids are handed a phone instead of being taught. Usually due to the working people needing 2 or more jobs to pay for others health care and laziness.
Sorry a little off topic. I have severe ADHD.
Thank you 🚒👍👍
lifters are so cheap to make nobody remanufactures them, ive seen new ones machined to match the cam
summit lifters are GARBAAAAGE.
No convexity on those faces , truly Flat Tappets.
😂👍
Are you Ok?
The way to measure crown is in a lathe. @.300 from center. Same as with the cam. Measure the tapper .300 wide are
1:10 well you know It is flat tappet right? 😂
I use GM OEM AC Delco lifters, no problems so far!
Some cam grinders have lifter resurfacers.
Yes, I actually use Oregon Cam Grinders. 👍👍
If I flat tappet lifter has a chamfer on bottom don't use them , it is will a death sentence for the cam. Also cam taper has to match lifter taper or it eat itself up.
Hold the bottom of one lifter to the side of another and you have the perfect flat edge.
Hold it to the side of the lifter that is round and hopefully machined correctly.
I think ill just use a known straight edge. I get what your saying though.
They don’t have to be just from China plus guys are buying say Crower and Comp and they look the same and do not have the correct taper to match the cam taper to spin the lifters correctly. Check out video from Powell Machining who shows this. Have to buy cams and lifters made for each other.
I just dont get it. I have yet to have a failure. BUT I also check my stuff before installing.
Im soon to buy the cam for my v6. Ive been recommended a comp cam and Ill buy their more expensive lifter (pro magnum).
The guy Im buying from build engines and have been a comp reseller for 15 years without issues. So hopefully Ill be ok 😅
I did buy some melling lifters they all have a crown and seem hardened but not sure if theyre good enough.
Id rather have the original lifters (gm org with stellite foot) reground but no one here does it.
I send my cam and lifters to Oregon Cam grinders.
@@firstrespondergarage I live in Sweden and there arent many shops here. I actually have access to a really good machinist but he lack the grinding equipment. He did say hell look into getting it but I cant hedge on it for this build.
That's just one side of the equation...better be checking the taper of the cam lobes.
Of course but you may want to get a hold of the grinder. Not every cam has the same tapper.
Not to mension the surface finish.
@@firstrespondergarage Good luck with that...there are only three places that grind all cams sold. None of these are owned by the cam companies.
@@rickss69 there are a lot more cam grinders than you think out there.
I personally know five of them and none of them are big companies.
If you buy a can from a big company then you're leaving a lot of power on the table.
1.5 thou on lifter and same on cam! It’s plenty
So who's making them
Summit buys from Comp, Crowler, Crane, Johnson, Trick, and just about anyone. These ones in particular are similar to what I find on Comp lifters. Also keep in mind some of the "big names" dont actually make hard parts either.
I know for a fact that Crowler and Comp, buy from China and do a little machining to change it up and call it theirs. That being said the lifter I went with are Crowler and they all had perfect crown, but still had the rough edges inside the valving. I had to polish them.
Isky are the only flat tappets I use
Ove never tried them 🤔 Ill look into them.
I'll buy a cheap cam, but always buy quality lifters.
Got what you paid for. Is there a problem?
Contact my friends at Delta Camshaft, they grind all my cams and supply all my lifters. Im well over 6 sets of both, and one with 30,000 miles on it just running off the shelf oil zero issues. Their cams are reground on oem cores , they have their hardface welding procedure perfected and they grind them perfect and parkerize them, the lifters are thoroughly checked, the faces checked for the correct profile and finish and they do oiling modifications on them .... I think youll happier and a cam and lifters from them, hyd flat tappet is in the same price point as a summit brand shit stick but its all done in America by Americans and you are paying American wages. Super cool people, they will even grind to your own custom specs if its within the limits of the core in question.
So back in the late 90ies I put over $5,000 in a big block rebuild. On start up the hydraulic lifters would not self adjust or quiet down with repeated rocker adjustment while running at 2,000 rpm. I quickly spotted a couple of offending valves where the slop in the rockers kept increasing. I pulled the intake manifold and pulled the lifters and saw badly worn down surfaces. Some of the lifters had lost 20% of their length??!!! The metal particles from the lifters went through the oiling system and grooved the rod and main journals. I purchased the cam lifter kit on line from one of the big name performance companies. I believe the cam company was Cra_e. The supplies said they would replace the cam and lifters under warranty. After flushing the block I reinstalled the solid lifters and cam and it ran fine. A trip to the parts store I found out that the store clerk had exactly the same problem on their big block rebuild using the same parts. We were both pissed. I later heard that used lifters were being sold in these cam kits. I think that the lifters may have just been reground but not hardened after destroying the mating surfaces.
Its terrible these days. I have a guys that regrinds for me now, he does all my cams and lifters. I haven't had an issue yet. Youll be surprised how much you save just getting the original reground. My guy charges 150$ roller, 75$ flat tap and 4$ a lifter. I dont buy new unless i have to. And i am checking every bit of it.
@@firstrespondergarage is there any concern about losing surface hardness on the lifters after grinding new surfaces?
@@firstrespondergarage I used to buy reground cams from a cam grinder in Tacoma Washington. Paid $25 for a cam shaft. Never a problem…
@@cornwasher Must be Delta camshaft you are referring to. A guy I know used to get cams from there for engines he would build and he was happy with them also.
@@MattsRageFitGarage exactly right--Delta Cams…
Use a straight edge & hold it up to a light. You will see the crown. I wouldn't think you would be able to tell anything by rocking them? Nun of them have enuf crown to tell by rocking them??
They should rock. If you cant see the crown without light I wouldn't use them, but thats me. If it works for you 👍🍻
I have a few videos on it.
@@firstrespondergarage holding them up to the light you can see the crown or if they are sunk in you can see that as well
I ck them with a razor blade. I agree that's the problem people are having. I found a shop that re-grinds good used lifters
Regrinds are the way to go
It's the exact opposite.
Thanks for doing this. Good thing "low prices are good for the consumer", eh? Thankfully, slave labor and no import duties make for rock bottom prices even after the steep markup that puts money in the pockets of fat cats.
However, why not use the side of one lifter as a flat edge, this avoids any argument about how flat your straight edge is.
When disassembling lifters, always keep the parts the same, can't mix and match or swap parts from one to another.
And perform a leakdown test, always, always, always.
Using the side of lifter that is round and shiny compared to a straight flat surface that is dark just makes it easier on the eyes. Not to mention one can handle a tool much better than two round objects that are small. Id hate to see someone drop a lifter and have it roll off the bench on to the floor.
@@firstrespondergarage Well, give it a try. Maybe you'll discover a problem before dropping a lifter into it's bore. Additionally, read the factory service manual procedure describing how to prepare lifters and you'll find this suggestion along with items you skipped over in your video such as checking bleed rate.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 I read those manuals 25 years ago When manual is actually meant something I still have them to this day.
By the way they failed the bleed rate. The clearance was too wide between the piston and the lifter bore. Kind of reminded me of rhoads lifters. Which aren't too impressive in my experience.
At any rate I don't allow my lifters to collapse more than .02
Your method of measurement leaves a LOT to be desired. The "crown" spec I have been supplied from a lifter manufacture is .0015-,002. Since you're not actually measuring them there is no way to know how close they are to that spec.
There is no need to "pre-fill" lifters and will prevent you from checking "dry lash" which SHOULD be on your list of clearances to check. The lifters will fill & adjust when the engine rotated as it is pre-lubed.
If you need to measure with a gauge you havent done enough. If you ever primed lifters you know it it take at least 15 minutes for all the rockers to start showing oil.
I disassemble my lifters and clean them, while im there I de-bur them and polish. I have yet to have a lifter or cam fail. But I also go above a beyond what the average guy does. 👍
@@firstrespondergarage Your going in the right direction with attempting to check the crown. But you're trying to "eyeball" a spec of .0015? You need to use a MACHINED flat surface (not just a piece of flat steel". The top of a drill press would be better than what you have now. Get a magnetic base and dial indictor with .00015 accuracy. Slide the lifter upside down under the indicator to read the ACTUAL CROWN of the lifter.
Oh I have LOTS of experience with lifter installation in 56 years of engine machine work. Ever wondered why lifters are shipped with a VERY small amount of light fluid in them? That is what the factory used to test "leak down" and make it easier to check dry lash. Once you have verified proper "dry lash" The lifter can be installed AS IS. They should not be prefilled.
As you "pre lube" the engine (the best way to do it is use one of the available "pressure pre lube tanks" (or you can make one, it's not hard. Turn it over by hand so that all the passages get filled, OR with the manifold OFF use the starter to spin it.
This accomplishes a couple of things. It fills the lifters with oil allowing the lifters to adjust and beginning to lube the rest of the valve train AND, allows you to SEE if the lifters are spinning and pumping up. (VERY IMPORTANT!) The lifters MUST spin in the bore, or they will quickly start destroying themselves and the cam. IF you find one NOT spinning try replacing it and see if you can get it spinning. If you can't get it spinning it MAY be in the cam but that's usually not the case and you now have a decision to make. Replace the cam and try again? Lotsa work but so is having complete engine failure.
Using a Pressure Lube tank will prime the engine MUCH faster than just using the starter since the pressure can be made MUCH higher.
Use glass instead of a piece of metal
Made in Ching Chan 😂. Chevy performance lifters are all I buy you can find them at summit racing..... when I called summit and chewed their azz out they decided to help me before I quit buying parts
Thanks for that, Chevy Performance it is
I wont build a flat tappet motor anymore. Too much liability. Roller cam lessens the chance of failure.
Looked into rollers when I was cam shopping last year, people are having issues with those too! Rollers aren't immune to bad machining or poor metallurgy it seems.
More and more roller lifters are failing.
Summit doesn't make auto parts, they just re-label them. The whole auto parts industry is suffering from poor quality control. That cam lifter combination would not last. Another tolerance that builders look for is a .002" relief on both sides of the cam lobe. this helps spin the lifter. It's not just remanufactured parts either. Brand new out of the box is bad.
There are only 2 manufacturing places I know of in the US. All others are over seas.
LOL of course summit does not make those.
That is not enough ? Maybe you should measure.
Summit racing and jegs both have sold out to Chinese co.
I thought they are hydraulic flat tappets. Not hydraulic round tappets.
Never use Chinese Lifters get Elgin Lifters made by Eaton in Mexico or Melling!
So you watched UTG and copied his post. (Poorly).
Not quite sure what you mean by that. This video is over a year old so 🤷
Most of the faulty flat tappet lifters are coming out of Mexico NOT China as everyone is saying. Summit, Jegs, Sealed Power, etc lifters are made in Mexico!
YOU SHOWED US THE SAME THING MANY TIMES ARE YOU NUTS
Probably as nuts as someone watching the same thing many times. 😂 👍🏻👍🏻
I’ve been hearing the worst things about summit lifters, and I’m hearing that Comp isn’t much better, so who makes a good lifter these days??
Morel and Johnson hylift...
I wouldn't get any name brand without checking. I have old ones reground.
Bullet cams recommends morel also.