I really admire your patience in constantly explaining the same thing over and over to the critics and armchair contractors. You consistently impress me with your builds and videos, keep up the good work Mike!
I poured concrete years ago... a friend of mine needed help pouring his driveways, so I offered to help him. Since then more work has come up. I'm thinking about starting a business. I appreciate your willingness to share your wisdom.
Mike, I love your explanations and how much detail you add when you explain stuff to us. I'm brand new to concrete. My 1st job was a 8yrd ashlar slate#920 with a Grey release stamped patio with a seating wall sitting on top a retaining wall. I was so scared and stressed but everything worked out thanks to you Mike and the help of my neighbor who does concrete. I'm a hardscaper who noticed the market for concrete. Last week I had my 1st mistake. I didn't add retardant because I never knew anything about it. It was 98° that day. Now I'm doing everything I can to make this right with the customer to prevent my very 1st unsatisfied customer. I'm definitely giving major thought on joining the concrete underground.
One of the most intelligent videos I've seen in a while. If your concrete producer doesn't have one of these products, find a different supplier. Another great addition for those placing in hot, dry, windy weather where plastic shrinkage is a problem... micro fiber. Let the technology do your work for you.
you do your pouring basically the exact same way our crew does. We generally pour a 5" slump. But you convinced me to get a vibratory screed in one of your videos. absolutely love it. It's stupid easy. I should have got one 20 years ago. we usually only use a water reducer on inside radiant floors. Just seems to make life easier when you have to kick screed. But a 5" slump is no problem for a shockwave. we put slabs down now in about 1/2 the time it used to take. You have already answered the question of why I think that an 8" slump might be a problem. Water to cement ratio. I just like to keep a regular simple mix as few additives as possible. Thanks for the videos you have your shit together, you know what your doing. It's kinda fun to watch someone else work while I have a cold beer sometimes.
Love this channel. Thanks for your experienced tips, Mike, they've been helpful. I only started one year ago, mostly doing flat grounds like this. We work as a 3man team here in Estonia. A concrete driver operates only on the pour with the remote, my job is to work "on the hose & pour", 2nd guy right behind me is " on the laser & wet pads" , my older brother is 3rd man " screeding" with a 8foot long screeder. So when Im done pouring, I work on the rake behind both guys( laser man takes a 8foot screeder aswell when the pads are done). And we usually like our concrete even more wet than this. I never understand Aussies who pour the stiff dry mix and then start to screed. Doing that every other day, man , you are retiring @40 if you continue like this. The concrete will loose its strength when added water , I know that, but we're not doing flats for skyscrapers, these are mostly 1 story houses not duplex, so we figure its easier on the body and we have to wait a little longer before finishing & power troweling. Keep posting your quality content! And give your crew a nice summer vacation too. Its hot out there. Cheers!
Mike, you are the EPITOME of my repeated quote "IT IS EASY IF YOU KNOW HOW' .... a real pleasure to watch and listen to .... my greatest joy learning always one more thing in each of each of your videos.... the world is already better with people like you and I ; )
I recently started watching your videos and really enjoy them. You've got a great crew there. Concrete & concrete work is the most misunderstood subject matter by the general public, of any subject matter (except politics perhaps, lol). I've done it for 2 decades, then moved into the concrete materials testing & research technical side of the field for more than another decade. Then finished off my later years driving/operating a concrete mixer truck. I also traveled the nation working on structural failure analysis/investigations, QC, and large construction operations. At plants & on the jobsite, I've mostly used & worked with WR Grace products, and poured plenty with WRDA-19 (HRWR). But have done extensive lab testing on all of them, Sika, Euclid Chemical, Master Builders, you name it. It's scary (yet too common) to see other contractors pouring 7"-9" slumps WITHOUT any water reducer admixture. Personally tho, I wouldn't push a mid-range water reducer dosage past 6" slump for flatwork and 8" would be my limit for flatwork with a high-range water reducer. Regardless, the most important point is the actual water/cement ratio of the mix. That's the key. One word on 'fibermesh'. A lot of ppl have the (mostly false) belief that it actually is 'reinforcing' the concrete, adding 'strength', and adds significant resistance to concrete cracking. We've done very extensive testing on a wide variety of concrete fiber products, including steel 'fibers' (bank vault mixes), fiberglass varieties, and a host of other fiber materials. In general, fibermesh helps control surface drying/shrinkage cracking, but our tests showed that the typical dosage of fibers per yard in a mixer truck did little to nothing for actual resistance to deeper concrete cracking or strength on flexural testing. There was only any measurable gain when 3x to 4x the dosage amount of fibers were used.
Not sure why folks keep questioning the quality of your mix Mike, it made perfect sense to me early on when I first tuned into your channel. I could definitely detect a noticeable "tone" in your video narration regarding the subject of using WR and folks calling what you pour, junk. Sounds like a general lack of understanding on their end.
like your videos i have been a mixer driver since1995 theres not many things i havnt seen i think your doing a great job around on residental jobs flat work most use 4000 psi some 4500 pour it wet no plastsizer use zip strips instead of saw cut keep up the good work hats off to your crew im from southern il close to st louis
Im listening 😂 Going to pour a 12x16 slab in two weeks by myself and I'm like slump 6 or 7 ... Being a woman and asking about these additives . I get a a like you don't know what you are doing. However I've been pouring concrete and love pouring. I love the forming part a little more. 😊 Thank you for the information and pray for more success in your life!
We pour all our parking lot pole bases with a mid range add mix and fibers. Pours like butta and leaves no holes after its vibrated. A pea-gravel substrate makes it flow even easier.
I usually pour 51/2to 6 inch slump I'm just learning about the reducer and I like what I see and anything to help not kill the crew getting it on the ground is key to a good day of pouring .ill be trying it out .your info is really helpful to me as far as convincing these less experienced guys who are about saving money on product versus man power .they haven't had a bad day of concrete finishing yet .thanks for info .you have a bad ass crew you make it look easy and I love seeing that .
Man..... lookin at the guys on the rod board make my back hurt lookin at it, looks like you have a good crew. All in time and step with puttin mud down. My finishing is days are in the rear view mirror now but, its nice see a good crew whoop it out. As far as the add mixtures it was always hard to get our inspectors to approve them since the local jurisdiction had no reference/standard for them in the city approved standards. I had to tear out almost half a mile of trickle channel because the Engineers Spec called for a 4"slump, and when the inspector saw what i was adding to the trucks one of those incidents happened you never forget.(4"slump in August in Oklahoma is rough to say the least) fine work lady and gents!
Mike, Thanks for your videos! They helped keep my mind busy during chemotherapy, much appreciated! Do know how many gallons of water they batch at plant per yard for this mix design? Are they mixing a 4" slump then adding the mid range? Happy new year!
You can definitely tell your training your young worker right.!! She’s maging those edges like a pro.!!💪😎.. love that you explain everything....and when you have been doing it as long as you have then any information and what to do and what not to do is valued information..... take notes young bucks.!!! You just might learn something.!!!! 😎😎
We work in central Midwest. We typically use 4000 psi mix to make up for the extra water for higher slumps. Breaks usually deliver an approximate equivalent to what you’re probably getting with water reducer and 3500 psi mix. I haven’t done the math on cost. Maybe I should, but we’re seeing a lot more cost increase associated with mixing and hauling compared to product cost increase.
Great info. I’ve always wondered about how much thinner your material was coming out of the truck! Any issues with colorants, stamping or release agents with the water reducers?
Great video on reducer. I noticed you are pouring on foam board with no wire or steel. Can you do a video explaining why that’s appropriate? I’m planning on building a slab on grade house in a very cold climate with heated floors, and looking for a best practice on pouring with no rebar. Thanks again for all the great videos!
We pour slab on grade houses like that all the time with just fibermesh. Styrofoam then radiant heat, then the concrete pour. Sub-grade is really the key. If that's done right then no problems. I mostly use a 3500 or 4000 psi mix with micro-fiber in it.
Hi Mike, came across your channel recently. Great pour video. I'm interested in all the steps not just the pour. You said below in a comment that Luke was on this in a hour.. can you share that video with commentary as well? Same with the final finishing, and the cuts. With pictures or video when the job is 100% competed. Thanks! Your area you work has a similar climate to me here in Canada. As opposed to a few other concrete channels on CZcams that are warmer drying climate located. Thanks again!
Learning allot from you watching your videos. The wet concrete question I have, does the climate make a difference. I'm in Missouri I don't believe ive ever seen a pour this wet and didn't know if that is climate related to geography.
we poured 4-5” slump. back then we didn’t have or know about the additives available today, on commercial jobs, we had to pass the testing, on side jobs, more water meant more time waiting to finish, more time on Saturday!
That's the reason I quit pouring as a young man, the old timers were killing me. We had to use a Jitterbug to bring up the fat, it was like peanut butter and it sucked.
Great video Mike. Cost in Chicago is 227.48 a yard. I work for a general contractor who does his own concrete work. I'm the concrete project manager and finisher. We use a 6 bag mix. We use a bull float mag float we are doing 6 to 8 projects a week we are slowing down now.
We use either grace or master builders. 6 to 8 range. In Phoenix during summer, gotta get it down fast and this is great way to do it and not lose strength.
LOL, we mad a mistake with a concrete pour using high range reducing agent and placing it into an explosion proof room, There was so much re bar in the 10 long 6 feet wide and 10 feet tall wall you could not see the footing the wall was sitting on and we used the high range to place it. We thought we were real smart as we calculated the volume of steel in the wall and it ended up be 16 cubic feet. We subtracted a 1/2 yard off of or order and we ended up short about two wheel barrows short. LOL, not our best day at the office. Keep up the good work and you and your crew stay healthy.
I like your videos. Truth be told all concrete will crack. I have been playing the game for 35years plus every day. Solid material has a high level of cracking. Fact. Harry Dunn says hi.
You two need to do some videos together!!!! I learned concrete in San Diego and moved to Tennessee. It sounds crazy but doing concrete here is waaaaaaay different. The different climate and mix ingredients etc. were a big challenge. If you each went to eachother’s areas then you would both learn a lot from each other’s ways of doing stuff. Respect to both of you!!!
I saw a ready mix truck the other day and he had a funny tank on the side. I asked him if it was for water reducer and he said it was. I'm sure adding it at the jobsite gives you a bit more working time.
Around here all the concrete has mid range in it you dont have to ask for it . But if you want high range ( super P ) they dose it on site . Because it starts to return to the orginal slump in about 30 mins . It must be different stuff then you use .
I use this on every floor. Makes the pour so much easier. We have jobs from Rockport to rangely maine. Our shop being in palermo maine. That also looks like a footing with 2 ft wall then a slab. We try to talk home owners into doing this rather than a slab on grade with real thick edges. I feel it a much better foundation for a building in this region
Water reducer allows you to be able to pour weight without ruining the integrity/strength of the mix. I do it all the time. My laborer appreciate it because it’s easier to handle and gives more time to finish before setting.
Hey, do you ever use super p with exterior flatwork, like a driveway or patio? Also can you use a power trowel with float blades on it for exterior work, and then broom over it?
Go with a 6 sack wall/footing mix and when the trucks get there pull the wall by hand with spades about 7 men or so, hell with the pump! Add about 25 to 30 gallons to a 10 yd truck soon as he pullls up,watch out how you tie your steel and watch out for rocky spots and get those bottoms clean and straighten that wall as you top it and put your anchor bolts in, not flatwork I know but walls are fun
I do not do concrete for a living just side work . I am on the west coast . Where you have poured thousands of yards I have only done hundreds of yards. I like a 7 slump and saw cut and have never used a water reducer, not because I would not but because I have never heard of it . Thanks for the education I found you about a month ago. I will be asking about the water reducer on my next pour. Mike
This is my 8th year in concrete and I’ve never used such a high slump for anything accept walls. We usually do our stamped at a 6 inch slump due to the color eating up the water like chloride. Otherwise usually a 5-5.5 unless it’s a small pour and we want to get out of there quickly then it’s 4.5-5. If it’s in the shade we use chloride 0.5-1.5% depending on conditions(humidity, whether in the shade or not, temperature outside etc..)
@@MikeDayConcrete Hey Mike I'm from Detroit and I've only got 7 months experience in as a laborer I'm going back into concrete next week I've been watching all your videos to learn as much as I can....
Hi Mike. Another question comes to mind. Do you ask for a mix with a particular slump prior to the addition of the water reducer? I can't seem to get a decent answer in my area. For some of the concrete suppliers, it's like I am speaking a foreign language. I would imagine I could talk to the technical representative for these products for answers to all these questions. Thank you Mike!
I’ve been asking this question for years, why Concretor’s do not use high range water reducer? Do you choose which brand of water reducer, or the batch plant has whatever on stock. However if you did a compression test and a slump test to show, would have been great. Cheers from Oz.
I had an old-time inspector once tell me, "If you cant pour and finish concrete at a 4" slump, then you're not a real finisher..." Good guy, but I hated when he showed up to test my concrete. These days, I try to pour around a 6" slump.
Hey that sounds great planning to do a slab same size I”ll definitely ask for it .one question no problems with stones resurfacing or do you float multiple times before steel goes on it?
Do you add the water reducer to the truck when it gets to the site? From my understanding, those polycarboxylate water reducers have a time limit for how long they keep the concrete like that, then it rapidly changes back to a low slump. (not a concrete pourer, just a curious viewer!). EDIT - just heard you say they mix it in at the plant, does this ever cause a problem if 1 hr away?
What was the extension on the shutes? Do the trucks up there carry those or is that something you have made? We would either have to pump that or back the truck around, only 3 chutes here in colorado
Hi Mike, I am about to do a pour 20x20 I would like a higher slump, but it's about an hour drive from the concrete plant. Will a reducer work with a retardant, or should that drive not be an issue? I'm not a quick finisher.
hey Mike, i have a question over the newer concretes and additives versus the older systems and even the situation with "roman cement". . . the whole discussion about durability, both tensile and flexural strengths like you were talk'n with the additives across those spectrums . . . with a mind towards environmental impact, i'm not some tree hug'n loon but the science and empirical examples exist to suggest the pursuit of a more "roman-esque" style of cement is not only better over all quality, but environmentally more rigid in the right ways . . . always been a curiosity for me, especially from tradesfolks who have direct knowledge of the material base over a longer period of time. ever dug through and picked all that apart?
When they made the Autobahn in Germany, they practically hammered it in place. That's how dry it was, also made a portable covering to keep the sun off of it. These roads are still in great condition.
Mike, I have a detached garage built in the early 1900's with a poured floor that is below grade and has a French floor drain in the middle. When we get significant rains the garage gets 2"-3" of standing water in it. I would like to pour a minimum of 3" of new concrete but I keep being told that it is a bad idea. I watch your videos and see you do it. Can you tell me why I should not. Desperate.
I pour at 7 slump . I have never heard of those type of slump additives. The problem I have with using water is how it comes to the top and just set,s there.will this type of additive stop that ? I put plastic down on all inside floor,s to stop sweating during winter months. Thanks for the tip Mike.
Hate to say this, but if you're pouring at 7" slump and that's without any mid or high range water reducer, then you're significantly using way too much water in the mix. To the point you're 'diluting' the water/cement ratio to very unacceptable levels. I would guarantee if you're pouring a 4,000 psi mix at 7" slump without a moderate/heavy dosage of water reducer in the mix, your actual 28 day concrete strength is no greater than 3,000 psi, at best. If you're pouring 3,000 psi mix at that slump... egads.
I watched a documentary on pouring slabs at the World Trade Center building 7. They poured 14,000 PSI pumped at a 8 slump with all the additive's. All Concrete rejected after sitting longer than hour and half 3 different companies supply it. Things have come a long way since the 80's.
I really admire your patience in constantly explaining the same thing over and over to the critics and armchair contractors. You consistently impress me with your builds and videos, keep up the good work Mike!
What keeps all the aggregate from setting to the bottom in concrete that flowable?
As someone who has tested concrete for many years, it's nice to see contractors that understands this stuff. Well done!
Thank you, where you from?
And all testers know is testing wake up
I poured concrete years ago... a friend of mine needed help pouring his driveways, so I offered to help him. Since then more work has come up. I'm thinking about starting a business. I appreciate your willingness to share your wisdom.
Mike, I love your explanations and how much detail you add when you explain stuff to us. I'm brand new to concrete. My 1st job was a 8yrd ashlar slate#920 with a Grey release stamped patio with a seating wall sitting on top a retaining wall. I was so scared and stressed but everything worked out thanks to you Mike and the help of my neighbor who does concrete. I'm a hardscaper who noticed the market for concrete. Last week I had my 1st mistake. I didn't add retardant because I never knew anything about it. It was 98° that day. Now I'm doing everything I can to make this right with the customer to prevent my very 1st unsatisfied customer. I'm definitely giving major thought on joining the concrete underground.
I am always impressed by how easy you and your team make this look.
One of the most intelligent videos I've seen in a while. If your concrete producer doesn't have one of these products, find a different supplier.
Another great addition for those placing in hot, dry, windy weather where plastic shrinkage is a problem... micro fiber.
Let the technology do your work for you.
Thank you, I agree. We put fiber in all our pours.
you do your pouring basically the exact same way our crew does. We generally pour a 5" slump. But you convinced me to get a vibratory screed in one of your videos. absolutely love it. It's stupid easy. I should have got one 20 years ago. we usually only use a water reducer on inside radiant floors. Just seems to make life easier when you have to kick screed. But a 5" slump is no problem for a shockwave. we put slabs down now in about 1/2 the time it used to take. You have already answered the question of why I think that an 8" slump might be a problem. Water to cement ratio. I just like to keep a regular simple mix as few additives as possible. Thanks for the videos you have your shit together, you know what your doing. It's kinda fun to watch someone else work while I have a cold beer sometimes.
Love this channel. Thanks for your experienced tips, Mike, they've been helpful. I only started one year ago, mostly doing flat grounds like this. We work as a 3man team here in Estonia. A concrete driver operates only on the pour with the remote, my job is to work "on the hose & pour", 2nd guy right behind me is " on the laser & wet pads" , my older brother is 3rd man " screeding" with a 8foot long screeder. So when Im done pouring, I work on the rake behind both guys( laser man takes a 8foot screeder aswell when the pads are done). And we usually like our concrete even more wet than this. I never understand Aussies who pour the stiff dry mix and then start to screed. Doing that every other day, man , you are retiring @40 if you continue like this. The concrete will loose its strength when added water , I know that, but we're not doing flats for skyscrapers, these are mostly 1 story houses not duplex, so we figure its easier on the body and we have to wait a little longer before finishing & power troweling. Keep posting your quality content! And give your crew a nice summer vacation too. Its hot out there. Cheers!
Ty Mike great vid! I’ve been in the roofing business over 45 yrs and always marvel at other tradesman and their skill. Great job!
Thank you
Mike, you are the EPITOME of my repeated quote "IT IS EASY IF YOU KNOW HOW' .... a real pleasure to watch and listen to .... my greatest joy learning always one more thing in each of each of your videos.... the world is already better with people like you and I ; )
I recently started watching your videos and really enjoy them. You've got a great crew there.
Concrete & concrete work is the most misunderstood subject matter by the general public, of any subject matter (except politics perhaps, lol).
I've done it for 2 decades, then moved into the concrete materials testing & research technical side of the field for more than another decade. Then finished off my later years driving/operating a concrete mixer truck. I also traveled the nation working on structural failure analysis/investigations, QC, and large construction operations.
At plants & on the jobsite, I've mostly used & worked with WR Grace products, and poured plenty with WRDA-19 (HRWR). But have done extensive lab testing on all of them, Sika, Euclid Chemical, Master Builders, you name it. It's scary (yet too common) to see other contractors pouring 7"-9" slumps WITHOUT any water reducer admixture.
Personally tho, I wouldn't push a mid-range water reducer dosage past 6" slump for flatwork and 8" would be my limit for flatwork with a high-range water reducer.
Regardless, the most important point is the actual water/cement ratio of the mix. That's the key.
One word on 'fibermesh'. A lot of ppl have the (mostly false) belief that it actually is 'reinforcing' the concrete, adding 'strength', and adds significant resistance to concrete cracking.
We've done very extensive testing on a wide variety of concrete fiber products, including steel 'fibers' (bank vault mixes), fiberglass varieties, and a host of other fiber materials.
In general, fibermesh helps control surface drying/shrinkage cracking, but our tests showed that the typical dosage of fibers per yard in a mixer truck did little to nothing for actual resistance to deeper concrete cracking or strength on flexural testing. There was only any measurable gain when 3x to 4x the dosage amount of fibers were used.
wire is better
Not sure why folks keep questioning the quality of your mix Mike, it made perfect sense to me early on when I first tuned into your channel.
I could definitely detect a noticeable "tone" in your video narration regarding the subject of using WR and folks calling what you pour, junk. Sounds like a general lack of understanding on their end.
Thanks for the information on the add mixtures
Thank you for all your input. Very much appreciated.
like your videos i have been a mixer driver since1995 theres not many things i havnt seen i think your doing a great job around on residental jobs flat work most use 4000 psi some 4500 pour it wet no plastsizer use zip strips instead of saw cut keep up the good work hats off to your crew im from southern il close to st louis
Thanks for watching @Meat Man!
Mike Day could circle the globe with all the concrete he has poured ! 👍👍 Nice job, sir.
The God of concrete. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Outstanding job Mike.
Thanks
Thanks for sharing. I have been pouring concrete sense the 70eds. I always had the adatude I can always learn more .
I enjoyed this video and I agree a water reducer, fiber mess, some type of rebar is the way to go!!
Really appreciate all your knowledge Mike God bless
I find it fascinating that you have to keep explaining about water reducers.
I agree, seems like not many listen to me while watching the videos.
We are listening mike, keep up the videos, we love your instructions.
Im listening 😂
Going to pour a 12x16 slab in two weeks by myself and I'm like slump 6 or 7 ... Being a woman and asking about these additives . I get a a like you don't know what you are doing. However I've been pouring concrete and love pouring. I love the forming part a little more. 😊 Thank you for the information and pray for more success in your life!
We pour all our parking lot pole bases with a mid range add mix and fibers. Pours like butta and leaves no holes after its vibrated. A pea-gravel substrate makes it flow even easier.
thanks for the info
I live in Massachusetts and I pour at 6 to a 7 I power screed alot and I use pretty much same way as u and it comes out great everytime
Thank you Marcel!
Hey love your work!
Thanks for the info!!
I've been doing stamped for 40 years and I've never heard about this stuff!
I usually pour 51/2to 6 inch slump I'm just learning about the reducer and I like what I see and anything to help not kill the crew getting it on the ground is key to a good day of pouring .ill be trying it out .your info is really helpful to me as far as convincing these less experienced guys who are about saving money on product versus man power .they haven't had a bad day of concrete finishing yet .thanks for info .you have a bad ass crew you make it look easy and I love seeing that .
Thank you!
Another great vid thank you - keep em coming :)
Definitely I can’t wait to use that product
Excellent work
Man..... lookin at the guys on the rod board make my back hurt lookin at it, looks like you have a good crew. All in time and step with puttin mud down.
My finishing is days are in the rear view mirror now but, its nice see a good crew whoop it out.
As far as the add mixtures it was always hard to get our inspectors to approve them since the local jurisdiction had no reference/standard for them in the city approved standards. I had to tear out almost half a mile of trickle channel because the Engineers Spec called for a 4"slump, and when the inspector saw what i was adding to the trucks one of those incidents happened you never forget.(4"slump in August in Oklahoma is rough to say the least) fine work lady and gents!
We use sika 2100 and small dose of stabilizer in the summer We also offer NITROCRETE (liquid Nitrogen) to keep Temps down.
Tia you look like a pro out there magging 👍🏽
😊 thank you
Great information. I always explain painting to people in terms of flow. It can be hard to understand.
Mike, you are the man. Thanks👍
Mike, Thanks for your videos! They helped keep my mind busy during chemotherapy, much appreciated! Do know how many gallons of water they batch at plant per yard for this mix design? Are they mixing a 4" slump then adding the mid range? Happy new year!
You can definitely tell your training your young worker right.!! She’s maging those edges like a pro.!!💪😎.. love that you explain everything....and when you have been doing it as long as you have then any information and what to do and what not to do is valued information..... take notes young bucks.!!! You just might learn something.!!!! 😎😎
Thanks 👍
We work in central Midwest. We typically use 4000 psi mix to make up for the extra water for higher slumps. Breaks usually deliver an approximate equivalent to what you’re probably getting with water reducer and 3500 psi mix. I haven’t done the math on cost. Maybe I should, but we’re seeing a lot more cost increase associated with mixing and hauling compared to product cost increase.
Great info. I’ve always wondered about how much thinner your material was coming out of the truck!
Any issues with colorants, stamping or release agents with the water reducers?
Great video on reducer. I noticed you are pouring on foam board with no wire or steel.
Can you do a video explaining why that’s appropriate?
I’m planning on building a slab on grade house in a very cold climate with heated floors, and looking for a best practice on pouring with no rebar.
Thanks again for all the great videos!
We pour slab on grade houses like that all the time with just fibermesh. Styrofoam then radiant heat, then the concrete pour. Sub-grade is really the key. If that's done right then no problems. I mostly use a 3500 or 4000 psi mix with micro-fiber in it.
Hi Mike, came across your channel recently. Great pour video. I'm interested in all the steps not just the pour. You said below in a comment that Luke was on this in a hour.. can you share that video with commentary as well? Same with the final finishing, and the cuts. With pictures or video when the job is 100% competed. Thanks! Your area you work has a similar climate to me here in Canada. As opposed to a few other concrete channels on CZcams that are warmer drying climate located. Thanks again!
Amazing Excellent Video thank you we Appreciate you
Nice job
Learning allot from you watching your videos. The wet concrete question I have, does the climate make a difference. I'm in Missouri I don't believe ive ever seen a pour this wet and didn't know if that is climate related to geography.
No climate doesn't make a difference. It's mostly temperatures that make a difference.
we poured 4-5” slump. back then we didn’t have or know about the additives available today, on commercial jobs, we had to pass the testing, on side jobs, more water meant more time waiting to finish, more time on Saturday!
Same here back in the 80's and 90's.
That's the reason I quit pouring as a young man, the old timers were killing me. We had to use a Jitterbug to bring up the fat, it was like peanut butter and it sucked.
This changes EVERYTHING! 🤓
Great video Mike. Cost in Chicago is 227.48 a yard. I work for a general contractor who does his own concrete work. I'm the concrete project manager and finisher. We use a 6 bag mix. We use a bull float mag float we are doing 6 to 8 projects a week we are slowing down now.
You guys are top notch.
Thank you!
Can i call sometime?
We use either grace or master builders. 6 to 8 range. In Phoenix during summer, gotta get it down fast and this is great way to do it and not lose strength.
Awesome David!
LOL, we mad a mistake with a concrete pour using high range reducing agent and placing it into an explosion proof room, There was so much re bar in the 10 long 6 feet wide and 10 feet tall wall you could not see the footing the wall was sitting on and we used the high range to place it. We thought we were real smart as we calculated the volume of steel in the wall and it ended up be 16 cubic feet. We subtracted a 1/2 yard off of or order and we ended up short about two wheel barrows short. LOL, not our best day at the office. Keep up the good work and you and your crew stay healthy.
I. Need to learn a lot more from you.
I like your videos. Truth be told all concrete will crack. I have been playing the game for 35years plus every day. Solid material has a high level of cracking. Fact. Harry Dunn says hi.
Nice work
Thanks
Great video Mike!
Thank you 😊
You two need to do some videos together!!!! I learned concrete in San Diego and moved to Tennessee. It sounds crazy but doing concrete here is waaaaaaay different. The different climate and mix ingredients etc. were a big challenge. If you each went to eachother’s areas then you would both learn a lot from each other’s ways of doing stuff. Respect to both of you!!!
I need you out in Southern Oregon! That would make for a great show!
I saw a ready mix truck the other day and he had a funny tank on the side. I asked him if it was for water reducer and he said it was. I'm sure adding it at the jobsite gives you a bit more working time.
Around here all the concrete has mid range in it you dont have to ask for it . But if you want high range ( super P ) they dose it on site . Because it starts to return to the orginal slump in about 30 mins . It must be different stuff then you use .
I use this on every floor. Makes the pour so much easier. We have jobs from Rockport to rangely maine. Our shop being in palermo maine. That also looks like a footing with 2 ft wall then a slab. We try to talk home owners into doing this rather than a slab on grade with real thick edges. I feel it a much better foundation for a building in this region
Thanks Travis!
Water reducer allows you to be able to pour weight without ruining the integrity/strength of the mix. I do it all the time. My laborer appreciate it because it’s easier to handle and gives more time to finish before setting.
Hey, do you ever use super p with exterior flatwork, like a driveway or patio? Also can you use a power trowel with float blades on it for exterior work, and then broom over it?
We use the euca. Comes from the plant at about a 5. Add super onsite and flow it right in….
Go with a 6 sack wall/footing mix and when the trucks get there pull the wall by hand with spades about 7 men or so, hell with the pump! Add about 25 to 30 gallons to a 10 yd truck soon as he pullls up,watch out how you tie your steel and watch out for rocky spots and get those bottoms clean and straighten that wall as you top it and put your anchor bolts in, not flatwork I know but walls are fun
Brilliant video..im a learner, i didnt see u vibrating the concrete ,,,?
I do not do concrete for a living just side work . I am on the west coast . Where you have poured thousands of yards I have only done hundreds of yards. I like a 7 slump and saw cut and have never used a water reducer, not because I would not but because I have never heard of it . Thanks for the education I found you about a month ago. I will be asking about the water reducer on my next pour. Mike
Mike day you rock bud shaka from hawaii🤙🤙
Hi 👋
This is my 8th year in concrete and I’ve never used such a high slump for anything accept walls. We usually do our stamped at a 6 inch slump due to the color eating up the water like chloride. Otherwise usually a 5-5.5 unless it’s a small pour and we want to get out of there quickly then it’s 4.5-5. If it’s in the shade we use chloride 0.5-1.5% depending on conditions(humidity, whether in the shade or not, temperature outside etc..)
Old man's concrete slump
@@MikeDayConcrete Hey Mike I'm from Detroit and I've only got 7 months experience in as a laborer I'm going back into concrete next week I've been watching all your videos to learn as much as I can....
Hi Mike. Another question comes to mind. Do you ask for a mix with a particular slump prior to the addition of the water reducer? I can't seem to get a decent answer in my area. For some of the concrete suppliers, it's like I am speaking a foreign language. I would imagine I could talk to the technical representative for these products for answers to all these questions. Thank you Mike!
I’ve been asking this question for years, why Concretor’s do not use high range water reducer?
Do you choose which brand of water reducer, or the batch plant has whatever on stock.
However if you did a compression test and a slump test to show, would have been great.
Cheers from Oz.
I use it on all flat work not sure what name brand my local plant adds but i usually use a mid range
That's great.
I had an old-time inspector once tell me, "If you cant pour and finish concrete at a 4" slump, then you're not a real finisher..." Good guy, but I hated when he showed up to test my concrete. These days, I try to pour around a 6" slump.
He's probably never poured any concrete in his life. Been there with those guys also.
Would you use the water reducer for flatwork sidewalks and patios? I work in California
Is the admixture added at the plant or on site?
Hey that sounds great planning to do a slab same size I”ll definitely ask for it .one question no problems with stones resurfacing or do you float multiple times before steel goes on it?
We don't have any problems
Do you do much concrete beans for floor support s like concrete floors?
Do you add the water reducer to the truck when it gets to the site? From my understanding, those polycarboxylate water reducers have a time limit for how long they keep the concrete like that, then it rapidly changes back to a low slump. (not a concrete pourer, just a curious viewer!). EDIT - just heard you say they mix it in at the plant, does this ever cause a problem if 1 hr away?
how well did that product work in the island
All good but how come you don't bump the service store out inch and a 1/2
What was the extension on the shutes? Do the trucks up there carry those or is that something you have made? We would either have to pump that or back the truck around, only 3 chutes here in colorado
Do you add the water reducer on site)
More water means a higher water to cement ratio and therefore reduced strength. More water also means more shrinking.
I see no problem with water reducer, where I live we always pour this wet, even some people are pouring roofs with that stuff.. 👍
Yes, I agree!
Hey Mike, what size stone do you use and is it blue chip or washed stone
How long do you have to wait for it to set up for trowel machine
When you pour at a wet slump like this. I would be concerned about rocks in the mix settling to the bottom. Just a thought
How can you steel trowel air entrained concrete? I thought you are only supposed to mag float it.
Hi Mike, I am about to do a pour 20x20 I would like a higher slump, but it's about an hour drive from the concrete plant. Will a reducer work with a retardant, or should that drive not be an issue? I'm not a quick finisher.
hey Mike, i have a question over the newer concretes and additives versus the older systems and even the situation with "roman cement". . . the whole discussion about durability, both tensile and flexural strengths like you were talk'n with the additives across those spectrums . . . with a mind towards environmental impact, i'm not some tree hug'n loon but the science and empirical examples exist to suggest the pursuit of a more "roman-esque" style of cement is not only better over all quality, but environmentally more rigid in the right ways . . . always been a curiosity for me, especially from tradesfolks who have direct knowledge of the material base over a longer period of time. ever dug through and picked all that apart?
Sorry, no.
@@MikeDayConcrete awe man, come on . . . it's a fun topic :)
Where are you located? I love your work.
When they made the Autobahn in Germany, they practically hammered it in place. That's how dry it was, also made a portable covering to keep the sun off of it. These roads are still in great condition.
Ya it's only 27inches thick... that might help.
I have almost 20 years experience..your crew is dialed.
Mike- You mention using the reducer for a garage floor. Is there any reason you couldn’t use it for a driveway too?
You can, we use it on all our exterior pours, just don't pour quite as loose if there's a slope.
About an hour away. Give or take depending on the project I have sometimes 4 hours. For a bigger commercial project.
Do you still have promo code for purchasing equipment from Marshalltown?
Mike, I have a detached garage built in the early 1900's with a poured floor that is below grade and has a French floor drain in the middle. When we get significant rains the garage gets 2"-3" of standing water in it. I would like to pour a minimum of 3" of new concrete but I keep being told that it is a bad idea. I watch your videos and see you do it. Can you tell me why I should not. Desperate.
I like to stay between 4 and 6. Depends on what I have going on that evening 😂. I've used products by Arkema and BASF..
Nice, thanks.
im watching mainly watching you guys screed with the 2 man and one man straight edges. i need some more practice with that.
When we concrete in the uk we keep the laser receiver on the rake ,it’s much easier.😃
Usually use 4-5 plasticized to a 6.
I pour at 7 slump . I have never heard of those type of slump additives. The problem I have with using water is how it comes to the top and just set,s there.will this type of additive stop that ? I put plastic down on all inside floor,s to stop sweating during winter months. Thanks for the tip Mike.
We still get some bleed water on poly in the shade. Mostly it dries up pretty good though.
Hate to say this, but if you're pouring at 7" slump and that's without any mid or high range water reducer, then you're significantly using way too much water in the mix.
To the point you're 'diluting' the water/cement ratio to very unacceptable levels. I would guarantee if you're pouring a 4,000 psi mix at 7" slump without a moderate/heavy dosage of water reducer in the mix, your actual 28 day concrete strength is no greater than 3,000 psi, at best. If you're pouring 3,000 psi mix at that slump... egads.
Dang...id love to travel and pour a job with you.
I watched a documentary on pouring slabs at the World Trade Center building 7. They poured 14,000 PSI pumped at a 8 slump with all the additive's. All Concrete rejected after sitting longer than hour and half 3 different companies supply it. Things have come a long way since the 80's.
And yet it all came down like a house of cards..😔
@@edwardfaris8516 ya because nobody designs buildings to withstand a fucking 747 flying into it.
what kind of gravel do you use in your mix? here in kansas we usually use 3/4” but wondering if going to a smaller gravel would help…
3/4 here also unless we're stamping, then we use a 3/8
@@MikeDayConcrete thanks!