Hey Max I got your tool 2 weeks ago and just want to say it worked perfectly just now , worth the money and I highly recommend it, I dropped my new 23 in my garage and it did bend it pretty good but your tool did just what you said it would. Thank you so much for getting it to me so quickly. I did replace two parts to correct what cracked and was only 65 bucks from Honda. Not to bad. Great product!!
My only concern is the steel bars connect to an aluminum subframe. You can see it move in the video look at 6:52. I own several of max's stuff and love it all.
I’m not going to second guess what Max has done, but I think Phillip is onto something. The stock Honda bars are obviously pretty weak as shown by Max’s experiments. Why not dump the plastic covers and design a tip over bar that’s stronger and wider to replace the OEM bars? You may even be able to design a cover for the new bars to replace the junk plastic covers that are on the bike. A heavy duty chrome tip over bar wouldn’t look bad at all on this bike. Then perhaps someone could come up with a set of rear saddlebags bars to help the front bars do their job. Rick H.
I'm not going to be the one to make ugly tubes hanging out of the bike, I said that a dozen times since I started working on this. The stuff the factory bar bolts to isn't very strong either. Longer levers sticking out would do much more damage to the bike.
Love the innovations you do. I don't own a Gold Wing but I appreciate your products, knowledge and videos. My last Gold Wing was in the early 80's.. GL1000 naked from the 70's.
I think it would have made more sense if you would have invented a longer engine gaurd that's what I was hoping you was going to do less complex then what you just did . I get the concept but I thought when you dropped the bike I was hoping for longer gaurds to replace Hondas small engine gaurds .😢?
I'm not going to be the one to make ugly tubes hanging out of the bike, I said that a dozen times since I started working on this. The stuff the factory bar bolts to isn't very strong either. Longer levers sticking out would do much more damage to the bike.
I'm not going to be the one to make ugly tubes hanging out of the bike, I said that a dozen times since I started working on this. The stuff the factory bar bolts to isn't very strong either. Longer levers sticking out would do much more damage to the bike.
I'm noticing the extreme flexing of the aluminum frame and you haven't even budged the crash bar yet. To me, that would indicate the frame could bend as easily as the crash bar. How about mounting a cross member between right and left frame members at the top end of the crash bar. When the bike goes down on the crash bar, both sides of the frame will support the weight instead of just the side on the ground.
What about the rear guard. I think mine is bent as I had great difficulty putting the plastic cover on after installing the center stand. There was no clearance between the heat shield and the top of the guard so the plastic cover would not fit.
We haven't seen that damaged from tipover, more typically a slow speed crash. At that point, you'd probably have to replace it. Having said that, it's a tube sticking out, you should be able to put a piece of pipe or a large box end wrench over it and bend it back. I also think that part isn't much money.
Wow! My luck I'd crack something 🙆♂️ What is the crash bar bolted too? Could it be the aluminum block? Not to scare anyone, you do more research than you show. Thx!!
Are you really bending back the crash bars or are you getting the space for the gap by bending several other parts of the mounting structure? The whole front motorcycle fairing structure is moving. I think you should reevaluate the device and there should be an additional fixing device for the unaffected parts.
Well I got an awesome idea and I’ll bet it wouldn’t cost 100 bucks why doesn’t Honda make one out of steel and bold on there and get rid of the plastic this kind of shows what kind of the gold wings are made out of this day and age that’s funny I got a GL 1500 you don’t have to worry about straightening it all out every time and lays down
That's how they make an 1800cc 6 cylinder engine on a full size touring bike that only weighs 850#. The $100 gets you 2 tools, one to fix the fairing bracket as well.
I was totally expecting that Home Depot extension socket to shatter and injure your unprotected eyes. Then I remembered that this was not a live video. Anyhow, this looks like a bad idea. You are flexing the bike frame and radiator mounts as much as the crash guards.
Hey Max I got your tool 2 weeks ago and just want to say it worked perfectly just now , worth the money and I highly recommend it, I dropped my new 23 in my garage and it did bend it pretty good but your tool did just what you said it would. Thank you so much for getting it to me so quickly. I did replace two parts to correct what cracked and was only 65 bucks from Honda. Not to bad. Great product!!
Great to hear! If you are on the GL1800riders.com forum, a post there would be greatly appreciated to help people know it works!
My only concern is the steel bars connect to an aluminum subframe. You can see it move in the video look at 6:52. I own several of max's stuff and love it all.
It is rubber mounted. It's not bothering it at all.
I’m not going to second guess what Max has done, but I think Phillip is onto something. The stock Honda bars are obviously pretty weak as shown by Max’s experiments. Why not dump the plastic covers and design a tip over bar that’s stronger and wider to replace the OEM bars? You may even be able to design a cover for the new bars to replace the junk plastic covers that are on the bike. A heavy duty chrome tip over bar wouldn’t look bad at all on this bike. Then perhaps someone could come up with a set of rear saddlebags bars to help the front bars do their job.
Rick H.
stronger bars mey be better but in any crash they will survive and the force may damage other things like a screws or frame
I'm not going to be the one to make ugly tubes hanging out of the bike, I said that a dozen times since I started working on this. The stuff the factory bar bolts to isn't very strong either. Longer levers sticking out would do much more damage to the bike.
Love the innovations you do. I don't own a Gold Wing but I appreciate your products, knowledge and videos. My last Gold Wing was in the early 80's.. GL1000 naked from the 70's.
Thanks!
You know, are taking such good care of the GW community, I think we should call you Father MaxWing!
I may have a Godfather character planned out...
great stuff as always Max
Pass on the extentions....I'd use #5 or #6 rebar with a tensile strength of 90,000 psi. If the extentions are made of Chinesium, you're up a creek.
Or maybe use a shorter extension bar and telescope a piece of steel pipe over it. Depends on what you have available.
I think it would have made more sense if you would have invented a longer engine gaurd that's what I was hoping you was going to do less complex then what you just did . I get the concept but I thought when you dropped the bike I was hoping for longer gaurds to replace Hondas small engine gaurds .😢?
I'm not going to be the one to make ugly tubes hanging out of the bike, I said that a dozen times since I started working on this. The stuff the factory bar bolts to isn't very strong either. Longer levers sticking out would do much more damage to the bike.
@@Traxxion oh ok then we could only hope for the Best
Please make better engine guards too!
I'm not going to be the one to make ugly tubes hanging out of the bike, I said that a dozen times since I started working on this. The stuff the factory bar bolts to isn't very strong either. Longer levers sticking out would do much more damage to the bike.
Really looking forward to the release of the Tip-Over protection!
Me too... if only I was in control of the companies making the pieces...
Thanks again, Sir Max.
My pleasure!
That's putting a lot of stress on the aluminum sub frame...
Agreed. It appears that the aluminum sub-frame is flexing more than the tipover bar is bending back. Doesn't look good, at all.
@@claynicolsen5401 I think a better solution is to remove the cover and straighten it in the garage, outside the motorcycle
It is rubber mounted. It's not bothering it at all.
It is rubber mounted. It's not bothering it at all.
good advice i will need to check mine
I'm noticing the extreme flexing of the aluminum frame and you haven't even budged the crash bar yet. To me, that would indicate the frame could bend as easily as the crash bar.
How about mounting a cross member between right and left frame members at the top end of the crash bar. When the bike goes down on the crash bar, both sides of the frame will support the weight instead of just the side on the ground.
It is rubber mounted. It's not bothering it at all.
I'll look at a connector.
@@Traxxiongood to know it's a rubber mount doing all that flexing. That really bothered me.
Call it....A big Lever! lol
That's right!
What about the rear guard. I think mine is bent as I had great difficulty putting the plastic cover on after installing the center stand. There was no clearance between the heat shield and the top of the guard so the plastic cover would not fit.
We haven't seen that damaged from tipover, more typically a slow speed crash. At that point, you'd probably have to replace it.
Having said that, it's a tube sticking out, you should be able to put a piece of pipe or a large box end wrench over it and bend it back. I also think that part isn't much money.
Good job, but i think you are not fix the guard but you fix the front subframe, did you mesure that frame
It is rubber mounted. It's not bothering it at all.
Wow! My luck I'd crack something 🙆♂️ What is the crash bar bolted too? Could it be the aluminum block? Not to scare anyone, you do more research than you show.
Thx!!
There is a replaceable aluminum down bar that is rubber mounted going up into the bike. The bottom is bolted to another aluminum frame rail.
Are you really bending back the crash bars or are you getting the space for the gap by bending several other parts of the mounting structure? The whole front motorcycle fairing structure is moving. I think you should reevaluate the device and there should be an additional fixing device for the unaffected parts.
The vertical piece you see moving is rubber mounted, and yes, I am bending the actual bar back into place.
Well I got an awesome idea and I’ll bet it wouldn’t cost 100 bucks why doesn’t Honda make one out of steel and bold on there and get rid of the plastic this kind of shows what kind of the gold wings are made out of this day and age that’s funny I got a GL 1500 you don’t have to worry about straightening it all out every time and lays down
That's how they make an 1800cc 6 cylinder engine on a full size touring bike that only weighs 850#.
The $100 gets you 2 tools, one to fix the fairing bracket as well.
You could name the tool the IFU Bar. I f'd up bar. Or just the Fubar. You get the idea.
haha!
Can't you heat it or is it too close to plastic?
Too close to everything.
I was totally expecting that Home Depot extension socket to shatter and injure your unprotected eyes. Then I remembered that this was not a live video. Anyhow, this looks like a bad idea. You are flexing the bike frame and radiator mounts as much as the crash guards.
The internet if full of people giving advice on matters they have no knowledge of.
czcams.com/video/nuHxQCDwncI/video.html
I see the frame flexing. That’s not good.
It is rubber mounted... and it's not the frame.