12722: GE Z-Wave In-Wall Smart Switch
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- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- Transform any home into a smart home with a GE Smart Switch. Learn how to install and pair your Z-Wave switch with a smartphone or tablet to begin enjoying your automated home lighting controls!
Visit www.ezzwave.com for more information on these smart home lighting controls. - Jak na to + styl
can this be used as a 3 way switch as well?
Would be cool if you could do a video on a 3-way switch for a fireplace or Z-Wave control for a fireplace but the wall switch still works.
Anyone installed this with cliq Clare control hub? I installed mine, paired it but shows up as an unknown device which I can't control at all. Only option I have available on the Clare control app is to unpair and remove it. My cliq hub is z wave compatible and was able to pair other brands of smart switches but not this GE one.
What if you don't have a neutral wire in the box? Can you split a neutral from another box that's a couple feet away ?
What if you have 4 wires plus the neutral but it's a single light for a single switch, I tried to install it but other light switches on the same circuit breaker then failed to work. Is this a case where you would use the traveller even though it's not a 3 way?
@Drew Waddell, ????? If it's a SINGLE SWITCH for a SINGLE LIGHT, then you would not use the traveler. The extra wires are simply being "passed thru" the switch box onto another switch, and the method of connecting the wires is using the screws on the switch rather than connecting them thru a wire nut. You would make sure the same wires are still connected to each other the same way they were on the original switch. Just slide 2 wires into each hole of the receiver module instead of one wire as shown.
I don't have a bunch of neutral wires in my existing single switch box. Can I still use this In-wall smart switch. Do I just not connect any wire to the neutral terminal?
Thanks
wont work..THe neutral wire powers the zwave transmitter
What if you have the WiFi Smart Switch? I receive the error message "No new devices found Please verify that the Wi-Fi password is correct and that the device and your smartphone/tablet are on the same wireless network." This error message pops up every time I try to find a new device.
ok so this is interesting... so in my hallway in the middle I have a light switch and that has the wire that runs to the lights. I know that as I have x10 light switches in place now. so I can hook this up but there is no hot in that box.
near the kitchen where the other switch is, is where the actual power comes in. Am I to jump hot back through one of the old traveler wires and use the other traveler to use between the switches? this is confusing... ughhhh
@Jeffrey Riggs, obviously there is no one monitoring this channel to actually reply back and give any helpful info. As you've obviously figured out by now, you HAVE to have a "hot wire" in the switch box, it just may not be black. If it's part of a 3 or 4 way setup, the main power IN may be coming from another switch, and depending on the type of wire used, the "hot" line MAY be coming into the middle switch box on a WHITE WIRE. Electricity doesn't care what color the wire is, it's just wire. You just need to figure out which wire is coming IN from power (even if that source is another switch), and which one feeds out to the LIGHT (or to a THIRD switch in the setup).
The neutral wire you added didn't look copper. What metal was it? Is it safe to mix metals on the neutral?
I have a different GE switch that came with the same neutral wire, it looks like twisted copper covered in solder.
@Andrew Attard. yes. You're overthinking this. Type of metal makes no difference when connecting to each other using a wire nut.
@@BenDover4Mee Lol, thanks.
What is the solution if I don't have the Neutral wires?
Did you figure this out?? I'm going to install this that and have the same problem
Rene H have an electrician run a wire to it with a neutral in it.
@@TXRenegade There is no solution, you need a neutral
When he pulled the original switch out of the wall, he says to label the existing wires. He doesn't say how to know which wire is which to properly label the. For example, how do you know which black wire is which since there are two?
one is hot. one is not.
i'm hot
You get a multi-meter, set it to AC (NOT mA) (super cheap on Amazon) and you touch the black probe to the ground wire, and then the red probe to each black wire one at a time. Whichever black wire shows approximately 120.00 volts, that's your HOT, or "Line." The other black wire goes to the device you're trying to send switchable power to.
@@RWT2777 Hey DIPSHIT, first of all, you're testing AC, so no need to specify which probe you touch to ground wire. DUUH!!! There is NO POLARITY for AC brainiac! Secondly, you should have included in your answer that they'll need to FLIP THE BREAKER BACK ON in between steps, otherwise there WON'T BE ANY VOLTAGE. The instructions indicated to start by disconnecting power, so if you're gonna tell a newbie how to test for voltage, you need to include basic info like when to turn breaker back on.
*** Easier and cheaper test than purchasing a multi-meter and WAITING FOR A WEEK to get it while you're wiring is hanging out of the wall - simply touch each black wire to the ground wire one at a time (after turning breaker on). Whichever one causes a big spark and trips your breaker is the HOT WIRE!!! LOL LOL Seriously. Won't hurt you, just trips the breaker. LOL
I looked in my switch box but the only wires I see are a black, a white
(both of which are connected to the two terminals on the right side of
the switch) and a bare copper wire. I don't have the second black wire
so it must be wired differently. Do you know if this will still work?
I'm no electrician, but I would think the Black is the Line (hot) and the white is the Load. The Bare wire is the ground. You have to have 2 insulated wires to make a switch work. and Load & Line are those two. Of course if you do not have a neutral wire, that may cause issues with this switch. As when I hooked mine up without a neutral cable, it didn't work for me.
Bcarson75 they ran one wire for the switch. There is no neutral
Seems like the wiring is the “old way”, the power is overhead in the fixture. The switchlegs are the only wires in the wall switch.
@@lmunoz7457 You clearly have no idea what you're even talking about!! Dipshit. Power is overhead in the fixture??? It's LIKELY that the POWER/HOT wire is the one running to the SWITCH, and the NEUTRAL is probably the one already connected directly to the fixture. This iS VERY COMMON, has NOTHING TO DO with "old way" assfuck! The wires in the switchbox are not "switchlegs" - ???? What the fuck does that even MEAN if it's not a 3 or 4 way switch????? There are no "legs". It's eitheir a neutral wire, or the hot wire in the circuit. Either side of the circuit can be switched.
@@BenDover4Mee the neutral is NEVER switched, as least not legally. NEVER CUT THE NEUTRAL !!
realized that whoever wired this place didn't use Romex and didn't wire grounds, now I gotta see if this switch will still work... I'm guessing not but none of the documentation clarifies this
It looked like your neutral was stranded wire. Only use solid core, for this
GE provides a stranded wire with the switch. Why not stranded wire of appropriate gauge? What are you basing this on?
@@gleb10000 He's basing it on the fact that he's a FUCKNUT. Stranded wire will work just fine. Some assholes just like to sound like they know what they're talking about when they are really CLUELESS. Almost ALL NEW LIGHT FIXTURES will come with stranded wires to connect to the solid core wiring that runs thru your house. There is no issue with this at all, it's completely UL certified.
When you mark lines before you take them off switch the load line is on bottom but when you install these wires to new switch you put the mark load line on the top screw? If I am seeing this correct it is V
VERY confusing, can you reply to this soon?
@Jim Kutscher, why is this confusing?? On the original switch, the load just happened to be connected to the bottom terminal, it makes no difference at all on a standard switch. The electricity doesn't care which way it flows thru a switch. The two terminals are either connected (when switch is "on",), or they AREN'T (switch is off). On the wireless switch, they simply had the top terminal marked for the LOAD wire, so that's where he put it. It likely matters which wire goes where on the wireless module, because the receiver also needs to be powered so it can function, and it gets it's power from the LINE wires. If you reversed the wires and put the LOAD wire in the LINE terminal, it wouldn't HURT anything, but the receiver wouldn't be getting the power it needs to work when the switch is OFF, because there is not normally any power present on the LOAD wire which goes out to the light (until a switch is turned on), GET IT????
@@BenDover4Mee Exactly! That is why a neutral is required, a smart switch requires 110v, not just breaking a circuit.