12723: GE Add-on Switch (3-Way Install)
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- Watch this quick start guide for help on installing your GE Add-on Switch. Replace your existing switch in as little as 15 minutes! The three-way wiring configuration turns the light or appliance on/off from two separate locations.
For more information on this product, visit byjasco.com/products/ge-z-wav.... - Jak na to + styl
This was a great help. This is the first 3-way switch I ever wired and everything went smooth and worked first time. The part about identifying which of the switches is the line was crucial, and the video showed exactly how to do this. Thanks.
Holy moly 3-way switches are complicated, and the way this add-on switch handles the travelers (by splicing one directly into the load) was super confusing. Thanks for such a clearly explained video! A++
I can thing of 3 other ways it is done too.
Thanks for posting - great video! Installed mine with no issues and right the first time. Much appreciated!
Holy moly, I'm glad I found this video. Great video, I was afraid to change out a 3-way switch until I saw this.
I just want to say, thank you for this video. You have helped me multiple times.
Hi Eric - thank you so much for this feedback. We are happy to help!
Used this on a honeywell smart dimmer, really helpful
Glad I found this video. Very easy and I would be trying to install it tomorrow...
We're happy to help. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
HI, your video was extremely helpful! made the job easy. Thank you Very Much!
Thanks for the video. I have a strange wiring set up in that there are what looks to be 2 Lightolier osr3 controller attached to a Lightolier dimmer switch. The osr3 only uses two wires...black and yellow. the junction boc has a number of wires including black, red and white that are nutted off. Any idea how to add the second and third GE switches in this confiruration?
Excellent video easy to follow Nice
Glad to hear you enjoyed this video, thank you for the feedback!
Thanks! Very clear instructions!
Thank you sir!!!!
I swapped out the splice of wire that was included with solid copper w/ white jacket 14awg wire. I was not liking that cable bridge type wire in my switch. I feel so much relief having solid copper.
Thanks for the clear instructions! Does the 12722 and the 12723 come in the ivory color?
According to Home Depot..."includes white and light almond paddles (ivory, brown, and black sold separately) that will match most standard wall plates (wall plate not included)" Model # 12723 Internet #205798442
can you use the 3 way fan speed control switch with the add on switches in a three way configuration ?
No, it is not rated for fan load.
thank you thank you thank you
okay what wire would you use to add more stitches in the system? I have three switches. How do I include the third switch?
You would be talking about adding a 4way but good question was wondering same thing
You can add any number of add-ons to a single main switch. Each additional add-on will use an extension of the same neutral and traveller wires that went to the first add-on.
I have 2 switches with 5 wires (2 red, 2 black and ground) and 2 switches with 4 wires (2 black, 1 red and ground). They are all connected to the same light. Any suggestions on how to install it? Many thanks
Not really, I would be guessing, most red are used for travelers but I have seen some people put a load on red instead of black. 5 ways can be a pain to decode.
So do both switches that control the same light need the GE Z-Wave switch installed or can I get away with only one installed?
My installation is for my porch lights. So I can turn them on when I’m on vacation. Also I should ask. Is this product applicable for my application?
I was going to ask this.
If it is three way you would need only 1 since each switch has full control of the light being on or off. In fact this switch has no Z-wave, it is from their non ZWave Enbrighten series.
I have a 12729 Smart Dimmer installed on the Line/Load from breaker box, My problem is that my light fixture is in the middle of both switches I am using a 12728 for the add-on. 3 conductor from add on to light fixture, and of course 3 conductor from main switch . Now at the add -on I end up with and extra wire ( Load Black) Where do I attache this one? At the Fixture I have the traveler (red) spliced with the red from the add-on, the common coming from the main to the white at fixture and the common from add-on marked with black tape connected to the Black of the fixture. I'm at a loss as to what to do with the Load(black line) at the add-on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ever figure this out?
Same here, left with a lone black common wire. Anyone ever figure this out?
I have the 12723 and my load switch junction box has 4 wires. (black, red, white, ground). I do not have a line wire in the load switch junction box. When i connect the wires as described in this video, I have one black wire left over and nothing to tie it to as per instructions at 6:45 min. I have determined that this wire is the traveler wire from the line switch however. Thus when I connect the wire to the load terminal per 5:28 min it becomes live at the load switch. Thoughts??
+Nick Beard I have the same issue. Only 3 wires where add-on switch goes (black, red, white). Did you figure this out? Thanks
+roswell I have two ballasts in the kitchen. i also have a theory that the 4th wire is tied together between the two ballasts. therefore I need to take down the ballasts to find that wire. my theory also entails me needing to run that fourth wire to the addon. never got it done. I just tied the load and the neutral together on the addon. right now the main switch turns on and off the light. the addon only turns on the light. until I get up into the ballasts to check it out the addon is just an on switch. but the zwave does work. hope this helps.
+Nick Beard I have the exact same problem. I ended up putting the load and common together in one terminal and traveler in the other. The aux switch does not actually do anything now, but my main switch controls the lights and works with zwave.
any progress on this one? Im running into the same problems but have led lights and they just flicker when I try to do the bypass that you guys did.
Sorry bmxbang 7, I have not fixed this. On the add-on switch i just put two of the wires together, essentially creating a full circuit. I forget which wires and to what connector, but now the add-on lets me turn on the kitchen light from the add-on, but will not let me turn it off. I have to turn it off from either the load switch or the app. We just left it as is. I put the light onto the "Goodnight" routine, so every night we just push the goodnight button and all the lights turn off - no need for me to fix the light switch. Sorry this wasn't any more helpful. I have LEDs in my garage, but no set up to a smart switch yet, so no help there.
In my primary switch, I only have one traveler and the neutral is alone with no wire nut. In the add on device, the neutral is the same and again there is one load and one traveler so there's not a second traveler to actually insert into the traveler terminal. I'm quite stuck . . .
I'm running into the same problem
Never mind, there was four wires leading up the wall behind the box that were white. Pull those wires back and cut off there is a wire in it... I guess whoever installed this must have ran out of room and used the wall space. Video my spot on it's working now.
@@hahnsonfefer Normally all neutrals (white wire) and grounds are bound together including one going to each switch. The red and black are used as travelers, the first switch send electricity out either the red wire or the black on depending on its position.
If you don't have a dimmer does that mean the switch won't work? What if I have a Z-Wave hub? Like a Smartthings hub?
I have no idea what you are asking!
Those instructions are really great and work as intended. I was wondering if there is a way how to exchange main switch (12722) with add-on (12723). Change one for another, and vice-versa. That means on location where is now main switch will be add-on, and where is add-on the main switch will be installed. Is it possible? The reason for this change is that add-on does not have that blue led on the bottom, which I need to see on the place where add-on switch is installed.
Yes, but but you would not do as he does, you would need a wire going to the light in both locations, depending on how it was wired to may or may not have one. There is more than one way to wire a three way connection. It depend if the bulb is between the switches or if wiring only goes to one. You might want to look a a more general information first. This is clearly only for direct replacement.
this only works on circuits that wire through the first switch from the switch box. Every three-way setup in my house has the power running from the light to the switches so there is no white wire to ground with. each switch has three wires. One has hot and two travellers. The other has two travellers and runs to the light. The light has the white on the other side of it.
John Lord i too had same issue with my outdoor light wired like that. And was the only. I was able to convert one of the 2 travler wires to neutral by tieing nutraul at the master switch with the travler going to the add on
If power went to the light and only two wires came to the first switch, then you didn't have a true neutral, you had only the line and load wires. The neutral is still at the light and needs to be wired through. You probably ran the load wire through a traveller rather than a neutral! Did you burn out the add-on yet? I hope your house is still standing.
What decade was your house built? Mine was built in the 60's and it has a neutral wire.
@@toriless I have neutral wires. They don't run to a switch though unless that switch box had an undetected power source in it. Three way switches can be nothing but traveler wires from the light.
How about a 4 Way set up?? I have 3 switches controlling one light. One box has 2 red, 2 black, one ground, and one neutral. How do I wire a 4 Way setup??
i have same question, did you ever get an answer?
No, I didn't get an answer but, I do believe I have it figured out. I will be posting a video on my channel showing the process soon. It's not as straight forward as a 3 way and I am baffled as to why no one has any instructions on how to do the install.
i figured it out.. just had to identify the load wire, traveller wire and wire white spare to common wire to switch! thanks if i can be of any help let me know. mine working great now!
did you post any video on 4 way solution?
no
What if I am replacing a three way switch in which both light switches have a single bundle (black, white, red, copper) in them. Neither box has a bundle of white wires. Neither box has a second black wire. I have connected the white, in both boxes, to the neutral. I have connected the red, in both boxes, to the traveler. I have connected the bare copper, in both boxes, to the ground. I have connected the black, in one box, to the load of the primary switch. I have capped the black in the box with the add-on switch. This house is in Arizona and was wired in the early 70s. I know that can make a difference for codes and such.
Any idea what may be wrong or how to fix it?
Hi, Eric. Your white wires might not be neutral wires, which are required for this installation. We recommend contacting a licensed electrician for your wiring configuration. If you have additional questions, feel free to contact our U.S.-based consumer care at 1-800-654-8483, M-F, 7 a.m.-8 p.m. Central Time.
Jasco Products Company hi, I have the same setup, as mentioned above, and have gone through the same process as above. However, my house was built only a couple years ago, and I’m quite confident the white is neutral. How is the lack of a second black wire handled? Thank you.
@@JascoProductsCompany Yeah, neutrals should always be bound together just like grounds.
I'm very confused because both of my switches have power running to them but they both control the same light.
Did you switch one to the off position before testing? They fly by that instruction kinda quickly in the video.
Yes, both should have power in true three way. What changes is where the power goes as it leaves the switches, this is why a 3-way switch has an additional screw, there is more than one way to do a three way connection but one way is the most common for physical switches.
It did not work for me... Main switch was fine but the secondary switch would not work.
Hi, James. We're sorry to hear you're experiencing issues. If you can provide more details about the problem, we're happy to help troubleshoot. Our U.S.-based consumer care is also available at 1-800-654-8483, M-F, 7 a.m.-8 p.m. Central Time.
Hi could I get updated firmware for this product please? I have a switch which is 4 years out of date.
Jasco is reviewing our process regarding Z-Wave firmware and its availability to consumers. We will publicly release our direction moving forward once we determine the best way to address the situation.
@@JascoProductsCompany Sounds good. Hope you guys make a consumer-friendly decision!
@@JascoProductsCompany Any updates on this?
I sure hope you realize an improperly fitted wire nut will potentially burn down your house I suggest getting proper sized wire nuts for this.
That is always the case but I did not see him doing anything with the wire nuts.
czcams.com/video/Fx1luE9llSQ/video.html - How can both switches be in the off position? If one is off, the other is on by default.
Hi, Michael. Traditionally, three-way switches aren't labeled "ON" or "OFF" like single-pole setups so one might by up while the other is pointing downward. Both switches should be positioned so the connected light is turned off. If you need additional assistance, contact our U.S.-based consumer care at 1-800-654-8483, M-F, 7 a.m.-8 p.m. Central Time.
@@JascoProductsCompany Thanks, I realized that afterwards. :)