Cup and cone hub service (overhaul) - how-to
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2024
- A complete video tutorial for cup-and-cone hub service (overhaul)
Table of CONTENTS:
00:00 Service intervals and basic info
02:21 Cup and cone bearing construction
04:00 The tools needed and grease
09:36 Disassembling and cleaning the parts
17:08 Axle inspection
19:16 Cleaning the hub
21:40 Removing hub dust-seals
26:11 RECAPITLUATION
26:49 Cleaning the cups
28:37 Inspecting the cups
30:09 Greasing and balls installation
33:28 Dust seal installation
34:58 How much grease?
38:03 Inserting the axle
40:55 Preload adjustment
49:23 Conclusion
Useful LINKS:
If you have comments or questions, please use the BikeGremlin forum (CZcams sucks at dealing with comments):
www.bikegremlin.net/
Bicycle hub overhaul article:
bike.bikegremlin.com/1461/hub...
Shimano Nexus Hub service (overhaul):
• Shimano Nexus/Alfine 8...
Bicycle bearing ball sizes and standards:
bike.bikegremlin.com/2255/sta...
Video showing the Shimano 5 mm hex (Allen) wrench locknut hubs:
• New design of Shimano ...
Unior 1617/2DP cone wrenches (Amazon affiliate link):
amzn.to/3svuHOR
Unior Hub Genie 1758/4 (Amazon affiliate link):
amzn.to/3eboySS
Bicycle bearing greses - in detail:
bike.bikegremlin.com/1985/bic...
The best bicycle bearing grease:
bike.bikegremlin.com/20/best-...
Mounting (anti-seize) pastes:
bike.bikegremlin.com/7172/ant...
Hazet 2162M mini grease gun (Amazon affiliate link):
amzn.to/2QaNmlO
Cassette mounting - spacers:
• Mounting a cassette on...
Unior 1670.5/4 cassette lockring tool (Amazon affiliate link):
amzn.to/32m8tUO
Proper Quick-Release lever tightening (use):
• Bicycle wheel quick re...
When to replace a chain (when is a chain worn):
bike.bikegremlin.com/733/chan...
Freehub vs Freewheel:
bike.bikegremlin.com/199/bicy...
Rear sprockets explained:
bike.bikegremlin.com/209/bicy...
Cassette (and freewheel) standards:
bike.bikegremlin.com/3573/bic...
Rear hub compatibility:
bike.bikegremlin.com/1259/bic...
List of all the BikeGremlin videos, sorted by categories:
bike.bikegremlin.com/youtube/
Camera: Gox, the pale whitcher :)
id: 1056 - Jak na to + styl
If you have any questions or comments, please post them on the BikeGremlin forum (CZcams sucks at dealing with comments):
www.bikegremlin.net/
Your tip about tighten QR to adjust the cone was precious. Thanks!
Excellent work! I made a mess of 2 rear freewheel hubs this week and gave up. Thanks to your video, I finally understand how a hub works and how to do the maintenance! Very glad to find your channel, as I plan to cycle through a bitter cold Canadian winter this year!
I have watched a couple of your videos..great work! I REALLY appreciate how you take your time and explain everything…it helps me figure out what I need to do…thanks and keep up the great work!
You won me over by sharing valuable knowledge and wisdom, that may have taken you years to gain. Just knowing tool and part names enables ordinary people to service their own bike. At 34:58 that likely explains what I did wrong a couple weeks ago to my freehub - that now misbehaves.
Great explanation of wheel bearings removal and replacement, I really enjoy your videos, very helpful and to the point.
Excellent description. All the detail you include is very useful. Thank you.
Thank you.
The idea was to explain all the details, catches, gotchas and caveats that one might face, at the cost of greater length.
A video for "when all else fails." :)
Great video and website, thank you.I am ready to service my hubs now.
Watched the whole video, very good instructions! Thank you.
Proud to be among the top 20 viewers. Great video 👍
Thank you for making all these high quality and in depth guides! This channel will be very popular in the future when more people know about it!
I don't have anywhere close to the amount of experience as you working on bicycles. However when I have been rebuilding sachs 3 speed and shimano 7 speed internal hubs, there is supposed to be just a hair of play when the locknut for the cone is tightened. This tiny amount of play will be taken up when put in the frame and the axle nuts are properly torqued just like it is when using a quick release. This is even written in old german service manuals for sachs 3 speed internal hubs.
Excellent information, thank you!
Thanks for the proper explanation. Super! :) Greetz from Germany
Thanks a lot for the effort you put into the video. You are a true gem :)
Great explanation!!!!!!
Another good video .Thank you
Thanks, the QR tightening effect on the bearings, I just did not know 🙂
Fortunately, after rebuilding, I have not used the wheels yet. Cheers!
You remind me of myself. Great video.
Thank you, handsome devil.
:)
Relja
Very useful. Thank you
Nice job.👍
Good
Just done my rear wheel cones.
There used to be a advert on TV In the 80s about the virtues of the biro pen & how it was designed by NASA for space 😁🖊
Hahaha. :)
I heard it as an anecdote/joke, not sure if it's true - but it doesn't seem impossible. :)
Svaka cast na posvecenosti i znanju koje imate, samo nastavite da sirite znanje, barem meni ce dosta znaciti da naucim od vas, nadam se da cete napraviti video kako servisirati klasicnu nablu sa freewheel-om, posebno me interesuje kako se podesava desna i leva strana tj konusi na osovini, kako dovesti u centar osovinu tako da i sam tocak nakon toga bude lepo nacentriran na ramu bicikle. Veliki pozdrav majstore.💯👏👏👏
Hvala.
Napravio sam video o servisu nable sa frivilom - princip je isti, ali u ovom videu sam baš takvu koristio za pokazivanje:
czcams.com/video/JfBEXZnwBh0/video.html
Edit:
U ovom članku sam objasnio kako se proverava i centrira osovina:
bicikl.bikegremlin.com/1662/servis-nable-bicikla/
@@BikeGremlinUS Hvala puno!
Is the quick release play also needed on steel hollow axles? Never thought the QR would be that much pressure. I think I did mine to tight last time..
Yes it is - the hub in the video has a steel axle.
Relja
i saw some wear on the Shimano Tiagra rear wheel inner bearing Cup when i did my road bike overhaul. Almost 1/4th of it was slightly scratched/eaten. Tried smoothing it out with alu foil and metal dish scrubber. Some pits still remain. 3x 6mm ball bearings had small amount of metal missing from their volume, so replaced those. The rest were intact. Should i replace it all together? When does the hub need replacing, at what amount of damage/scratches?
@@BikeGremlinUS i thought with a mini hand drill used for polishing, i can smooth the inside out with a cone drill head. Not so exact i agree. but next time i'll buy sealed bearings hubs to replace only that part
Good questions.
Pitting on the outside shows after the damage had started below the surface level.
Usually, if the hub isn't serviced regularly, or the bearing preload is too high, or too loose (so there's clearance), damage can happen (wear).
Balls get damaged first (easily replaced), then the cones (sometimes tricky to find replacements) and finally cups.
If the hub is not serviced and proper reload set before the cups are damaged - once they are damaged, the solution is re-lacing a new hub.
That's the downside of cup and cone hubs.
The downside of cartridge cups is you need special (more expensive) tools to replace the bearings when they need replacing. And the bearings are radial (hard to find angle-contact cartridge bearings). Less ideal for bicycle wheel loads. This latter downside is more academic - won't hamper cycling as long as the bearings are replaced in time, there's no noticeable extra drag.
your videos are very good info! but i have a problem with this..i cant tight the right -hand side lock-nut then i cant move around the axel freely. But when its almost loose close to the cone itds quite ok, but is that ok? it wont fall off? on the left -hand side i can close the lock -nut little better,,what am i doing wrong here?
Hi Kristofer,
I'm not sure I understand the problem you are having. :(
Generally:
For fine-adjusting the bearing preload, it can help if you hold the axle in place with a vice or similar (make sure to put some inserts to not damage the threads). That will let you adjust the cone as you like, hold it in place with the cone key, and just tighten the locknut against it.
Without the vice, there is some rotation and it is a bit more tricky (I've gotten used to and learned to do it without a vice, but I think I should make a video of how it's done using a vice).
Relja
@@BikeGremlinUS i think i solved the first problem but still.. when i put on the wheel on the bike there is some minimal "play" like u say, but if i tension the axel and cone more the wheel wont spin freely, this is even after i tension the quick release. I felt my back- wheel on my mounting bike it also have some minimal play..? can i have it like this or will the cykling be a problem,,this new bike is a racing bike with very smal tires, 28 diameter and 23 width.
I've seen some low quality hubs that could not be adjusted properly - you could only choose between some play or some rough spinning.
Most decent hubs (including Shimano low-end ones) do allow for the preload to be set so that there is no play (once you close the quick release lever), but with the wheel spinning nicely.
So, if the hub is of a decent quality, and if nothing is pitted, it should work fine, and if it doesn't then it may be that something is misaligned or improperly adjusted.
@@BikeGremlinUS ok i understand, so what would you choose "some play or " roough spinning?
@@kristofermed1f If a bearing is not pitted (damaged), I go with rough spinning (i.e. no play with the QR lever locked). That's worked well so far for me.
Anyone knows where’s the part on bearing sizes? Can’t find it
The link is in the video's description.
37:40: How far should the dust cap be pushed into the freehub body? Until it sits on the cup?
There is no set rule of thumb - it depends on the hub model and the cap type (some are mounted on cones, others are pressed into the hub).
Generally: if you press it too much in, it will hit the bearing balls and might prevent the hub from spinning freely. If you press it in too little, it may not fit securely enough or it may cover the cone wrench flats so a cone wrench can't be engaged.
So, insertion depth is not critical. As long as it sits nicely and securely in place, and doesn't get in the way of anything, it should be fine.
Relja
@@BikeGremlinUS Thank you very much.
Do bicycle shops often have a big ultrasonic cleaner to clean the whole bicycle before they proceed to do anything on it
Mine definitely doesn't . :)
Relja
Is cup cone hub is better than one piece hub/cartridge hub ??
Each have their pros and cons.
Cup and cone hubs can be serviced with simple(r) (and cheaper) tools. And, technically, they are a bit better at handling loads that bicycle wheels face.
But cartridge bearings are less of a problem if neglected - because the cups (i.e. the whole hub) don't get pitted, only the replaceable bearings.
I'll make a video on that - that's a good topic!
Here's a video that briefly discusses the pros and cons of cup and cone vs cartridge bearings:
czcams.com/video/TTBLdxR-mhE/video.html
Now try removing the cup from your hub and installing a donor cup
Not the easiest thing to source.
I usually re-lace the wheel with a new hub in case the cups are pitted.
@@BikeGremlinUS Are cups generally not universal in size?
As far as I know, neither cones, nor cups are one model fits all.
In a pinch, one can get away with cones that are "close enough."
Haven't tried that with cups, so can't comment on that. They are generally not considered to be a replaceable part.
48:40
US and speaks Russian. OK wow
Serbocroatian actually. At least on the BikeGremlin RS channel.
The US one is in English of course… most of the time. :)
@@BikeGremlinUS I'm czechoslovakian
Do you believe someone will watch all this? Too slow, too much time.
It’s a kind of video that I prefer when trying to learn something. And the kind I enjoy making. The rest is less important.
@@BikeGremlinUS OK good video thanks