. . . Wandered in years ago and then wandered off years ago. Came upon a recent vid and as soon as I heard "... hello knife people"... I knew it could only be one person . . .
great Video virtuovice. Thank you for sharing your skill set with us. It's been interesting watching your evolution of sharpening over the last few years. I just started watching your vids while researching the firebox. Pretty cool, huh? I've been meaning to ask you if you have tried the Swedish fire torch method in your firebox yet. I haven't seen you do it in any of your videos, and it looks good for a low maintenance fire for cooking. Also, your fly fishing is great. I like the same small trout streams in North Central Pennsylvania, USA. Thanks again for all your effort for the vids, I'm sure it's much work! Your family seems very nice too. Good Job. greg
@virtuovice I have watched soooo many of your sharpening videos... and I applaud you on your technique and evolution of how you do your grinding etc... I just cannot get behind your asymmetrical grid on your knives. I know why you do it but it really just rubs me wrong. All of your knives have become right-hand use only with your grind, and of course I am a lefty. I guess since all your knives will be passed down to your daughter etc it is ok... but I hope she is also right handed. Thanks again for the videos and information.
+Roy Fernbach His daughter is a south-paw. He has made specific knives for her. I have copied his technique for my knives for personal use. With use it is very natural indeed.
+Roy Fernbach Roy I understand the OCD thing. Mine is micro bevels that chip and points that break in normal use. I have always been a fan of convex & and micro convex edges on blades because they are stronger. I did get over the feeling my blade was lop sided when: 1. I gained control of the knife grind. 2. after using it how natural and easy the knife is to use and maintain. Best wishes to you man.
+Roy Fernbach I feel the same way about asymmetrical grinds. For me, it's not OCD, it's just a matter of use. I use knives in ways that mean I use them in both lefty and righty cutting angles. But I really dislike micro bevels, as well, except on very large knives made for fighting. Personal taste and personal use have much to do with grind preference, but for me, asymmetrical grinds just do not work as well as symmetrical grinds, and prove to have more difficulties in both the dulling and sharpening process. But we do all use knives in different ways, so knowing what matches your style of use is important.
It is true asymmetrical modifications are a particular taste. I do have work knives that I remove the micro bevel from and convex the edge. I have found some narrow inclusive about 25 or so tend to chip when the micro bevel is gone. So I must put the micro bevel back on a convex edge or restore it to symmetrical configuration. Those knives make great gifts for others. Most of the steels I use are carbon and some 154CM. Where I live I get away with few rust problems. I store out of sheath mostly. Nice talking with you.
Hello, I find it very relaxing to watch knives being sharpened on water stones. I would like to get myself a first set of decent water stones, I was thinking of Naniwa Specialty 800 and 2000 or 3000, would that be a good starting point?
+Matthieu Cramers Stone qualities are really deferent from brand by brand. I honestly recommend you Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku 1000 and 2000 for edge reshaping, and Chosera 3000 for edge polishing. If you need to do shoulder removal from a V edge knife, Chosera 400 will help you largely. Thanks.
flattening after each sharpening seems better than sharpening once every few times. Sometimes I have to work 30 minutes or more on my chosera 400 grit with a lot of silicon-carbide powder applied. My 400 grit chosera is almost at the end of it's life and there is now only about 1cm of stone left. You got this diamond flattening stone from ebay right? does it leave deep scratches in high grit stones?
What? Black and white ebony is indeed super dense wood, and Is most definitely able to achieve a high gloss relatively easy, try to Polish it with some wax and see what ya get because it's pretty easy.
Wako-san, thank you again for sharing such amazingly helpful videos - they are always informative and a pleasure to watch. I find the Gunny grip one of the most comfortable BRKT grips and the blade profile works very well for bushcraft and field dressing. 1) For both processing wood + field dressing, which Gunny steel would you recommend - Elmax, A2, CPM 3V or S35VN? 2) Which Gunny blade profile is best for wood processing and field dressing - regular Rampless? 3) Is there any other make and model of knife you recommend as highly as the Gunny for bushcraft?
+supermountainranger A2 has nice geometry, not too thin, not too fat. 3V has very fat geometry and we should avoid it. We cannot make an expected sharp edge unless we regrind the bevel from a high line. Elmax and S35VN has the same nice geometry as A2. I like A2 Bravo1 the best for my riverside fire making because its 6mm thick blade batons very efficiently and its handle is hand filling and way more stable than Gunny. Thanks.
+virtuovice, Thank you very much for your reply. I'm aware of the Bark River 3V fat geometry issue thanks to your excellent explanations. If you mail it to them, will Bark River reprofile a 3V Gunny to the same profile as an A2 Gunny, free of charge or for a reasonable fee? If the 3V is reprofiled to the same profile as an A2 Gunny, would you prefer the 3V for wood processing and field dressing?
+supermountainranger In case 3V has the same thin geometry as A2, it will get a little more prone to micro chipping from impact or lateral stress. This problem is only on the apex. So you can prevent it by raising the apex angle a little by black compound stropping after having A2 geometry to your 3V Gunny. Then the apex of 3V gets more durable and tougher than A2, and still sharp enough. We can never make an edge sharp enough onto the 3V original fat geometry. Yes. I prefer 3V in the A2 geometry. Thanks.
Hello Dr.Wako, I was just thinking about the different steels you have used throughout the years and was wondering if you've ever tried any knives with N680 or M390 steels, literature says the are highly corrosion resistant and have good edge retention so I think this would work well for your hunting knifes, or river bushcraft knives. I know bark river doesn't make knives from these steels but many other knife makers do, the one bohler steel bark river does use is elmax but I don't think you like it so much anymore.
+Victor Nekrasov I have ever used N680 and its edge holding was extremely poor. Those high corrosion resistant steels are for salt water. I love only fresh water fishing and regular stainless steels are okay on me. Elmax is prone to micro chips in a small angle although it stays super sharp extremely long. I take this property right to make a backup knife with it. Thanks.
Thank you very much for your reply sir. I'd be curious to see how M390 holds up to your tests but it is not as common among knife makers. I don't have any in Elmax yet but I will take your advice about the edge angle when I do. Thank you.
Hello. I appreciate your' videos on sharpening. Nice to see a fellow hunter and hand loader too. I just bought a 1000/6000 King stone. I wish I would have watched your videos before or I would not have gone with 6000. Do I need to buy a separate 3000 or could I get a strop and be ok with the 1/6 thousand. Thanks.
+Nick Ross King 1000/6000 is very popular here for kitchen use. It is suitable for thin and soft stainless kitchen knives. For outdoor thick knives quality stones like Chosera or Shapton are needed in my experience. Shapton 1000, 2000, and Chosera 3000, and Bark River white compound stropping is my regular sharpening of outdoor knives. If you use Bark River black compound before the white one, Chosera 3000 is unnecessary. Thanks.
After watching your videos I want to start using whetstones to sharpen my kitchen and outdoor knives. My plan is to get a Chosera 400 and either a 3000 or 5000. Should I get Chosera 1000 and 2000 or Shapton 1000 and 2000?
+JD Jerry: look at Murray Carter videos on sharpening. I used to think I needed a whole bunch of stones, but I tried his approach and get knives extremely sharp with only two stones: King Delux 1000 and the King Super Finish 6000.These stones are far less expensive then the chosera and work great (I originally spent a bunch of money on choseras and they work great, but all I use now are the two King stones and get the same finish: 1000, 6000, strop with green or white compound)
+JD Jerry Chosera 400, Shapton 1000 and 2000, Chosera 3000 is my best line. Chosera 1000 is a lillte too fine for the grit. Chosera 2000 is a little soft. 5000 is too fine if we do stropping after. Chosera 3000 is fine enough. Thanks.
Virtuovice I have been watching your knife sharpening videos and have bought a set of King sharpening stones. I noticed that when you sharpen your knife you push away to sharpen the one side and then you bring the knife twords you to sharpen the other edge. I found bring it twords me I had less control so I sharpened my mora knife by using your method holding the knife in my right hand with the tip pointing to the left. However instead of beinging the knife twords me to sharpen the other edge I placed the handle in my left and with tip pointing to the right and pushed forward to sharpen the other edge this way. Is this a mistake I am doing or just another method to achieve the same goal.
The handle of this gunny is amazingly beautiful. What is your favorite bark River knife for skinning large to medium game? Is this the best all around hunting knife?
Thank you for the response Virtuovice, thank you for all of the videos. I am about to buy my first set of water stones and I hope to one day be close to your skill
Because A2 is not fully corrosion resistant, besides giving it a light regular oiling after cleaning, would you also use any substance on a new A2 blade to give it a patina? Will the patina help A2 resist corrosion?
+supermountainranger I don't like forced patina. A2 is not such an easy rusting steel as 1095 or such. Light oiling is enough to keep it from rusting. Thanks.
Hi Mr Wako What is the compound you applied to the 5,000 grit stone @ 22:32 please and where can I purchase locally in Japan? Thanks again for your great educational video sir.. I wish you could mentor me..
+Marc Godwin That is Nagura stone to make slurry and remove stuck residue from the stone. You can get one from here. They take PayPal and ship overseas by air. I love 天上. www2.odn.ne.jp/mandaraya/5-tennen-nagura.htm
Mr. Virtuovice have you ever tried Frog Lube to protect your knives? It's a high tech weapon lubricant and corrosion protector. However, I love it for knives. It smells good and gets deep into the steel as well as being edible. Check it out I think you will really like it. Check it out on CZcams.
hey virtu, has barkriver started to stabilize their wood yet, or is it still shrinking on you. I want to get white ebony Fox river 2 but not excited about it possible shrinkage.
+jcoopdo I think white ebony will shrink a little. White ebony won't make a shiny surface because it is not a dense wood. It will shrink when it is dry and will swell when it is wet. Stabilized burl doesn't shrink although it can crack in relatively high probability. I think you should get your favorite wood and not care about the shrinkage largely. It is inevitably true that many woods shrink.
For reprofiling your BRKT to a convex-scandi grind, which make and model of sharpening stones do you recommend, and which make and model of strop and compound type?
+supermountainranger If you only need to remove the micro bevel, Shapton 1000 is the appropriate stone. If you need to reprofile the bevel geometry, Chosera 400 is necessary at least. If the reprofiling is a hard one, Shapton 120 can be necessary, and to bridge between 120 and 400, Shapton 220 should be there. I like DLT double sided paddle strop because its leather is thin enough not to take the edge deep, and Bark River white compound which doesn't make the apex round. Thanks.
+virtuovice, Thank you. For maintaining the sharpness of an A2 and a 3V convex blade in the field on a multi-week trip away from home, which light sharpening material might you take with you to maintain the blades?
ahh...I would love a set of those water stones. Anyone know where the best price to get a full set? I gotta have a set of those for my bug out bag. lol
I am positive it's an iwood diamond plate by koyama or something, the spelling might be off, but go onto toolsfromjapan, look in the diamond plate section and you should find it
thank you. I learn so much watching your videos.
For someone who paints, I love the finishing bit on the 5000 where metal becomes sumi ink. Just beautiful.
.
.
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Wandered in years ago and then wandered off years ago.
Came upon a recent vid and as soon as I heard "... hello knife people"...
I knew it could only be one person
.
.
.
I am very impressed by your sharpening skills, awesome !
Hmmer Pimy show me, upload a video of yourself sharpening 10 knives in 20 minutes and we'll see how it goes
Hmmer Pimy you may be able to sharpen one, but you said 10, one after another, thats hard work
Hmmer Pimy so hard to believe
Hmmer Pimy once I get my wetstones I will see how it goes :D
+Hmmer Pimy might I point out that that is not a video of you doing anything...
Thanks for your sharpening videos my friend.
Regards from Barcelona (Spain)
I would love to learn how to sharpen knives as well as you, if you can show a video on a step by step I would really appreciate it thanks. :)
hello I enjoy your videos very much thank you
great Video virtuovice. Thank you for sharing your skill set with us. It's been interesting watching your evolution of sharpening over the last few years. I just started watching your vids while researching the firebox. Pretty cool, huh? I've been meaning to ask you if you have tried the Swedish fire torch method in your firebox yet. I haven't seen you do it in any of your videos, and it looks good for a low maintenance fire for cooking.
Also, your fly fishing is great. I like the same small trout streams in North Central Pennsylvania, USA. Thanks again for all your effort for the vids, I'm sure it's much work! Your family seems very nice too. Good Job.
greg
I learned a lot. Thank you
I need to buy myself a Gunny Hunter one day!
@virtuovice I have watched soooo many of your sharpening videos... and I applaud you on your technique and evolution of how you do your grinding etc... I just cannot get behind your asymmetrical grid on your knives. I know why you do it but it really just rubs me wrong. All of your knives have become right-hand use only with your grind, and of course I am a lefty. I guess since all your knives will be passed down to your daughter etc it is ok... but I hope she is also right handed. Thanks again for the videos and information.
+Roy Fernbach His daughter is a south-paw. He has made specific knives for her. I have copied his technique for my knives for personal use. With use it is very natural indeed.
Steven Parsons
Well I agree that it might be good for personal use and all, I just cannot get behind it... it aggravates my OCD something fierce. :)
+Roy Fernbach
Roy I understand the OCD thing. Mine is micro bevels that chip and points that break in normal use. I have always been a fan of convex & and micro convex edges on blades because they are stronger. I did get over the feeling my blade was lop sided when: 1. I gained control of the knife grind. 2. after using it how natural and easy the knife is to use and maintain. Best wishes to you man.
+Roy Fernbach I feel the same way about asymmetrical grinds. For me, it's not OCD, it's just a matter of use. I use knives in ways that mean I use them in both lefty and righty cutting angles. But I really dislike micro bevels, as well, except on very large knives made for fighting. Personal taste and personal use have much to do with grind preference, but for me, asymmetrical grinds just do not work as well as symmetrical grinds, and prove to have more difficulties in both the dulling and sharpening process. But we do all use knives in different ways, so knowing what matches your style of use is important.
It is true asymmetrical modifications are a particular taste. I do have work knives that I remove the micro bevel from and convex the edge. I have found some narrow inclusive about 25 or so tend to chip when the micro bevel is gone. So I must put the micro bevel back on a convex edge or restore it to symmetrical configuration. Those knives make great gifts for others. Most of the steels I use are carbon and some 154CM. Where I live I get away with few rust problems. I store out of sheath mostly. Nice talking with you.
Hello, I find it very relaxing to watch knives being sharpened on water stones. I would like to get myself a first set of decent water stones, I was thinking of Naniwa Specialty 800 and 2000 or 3000, would that be a good starting point?
+Matthieu Cramers Stone qualities are really deferent from brand by brand. I honestly recommend you Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku 1000 and 2000 for edge reshaping, and Chosera 3000 for edge polishing. If you need to do shoulder removal from a V edge knife, Chosera 400 will help you largely. Thanks.
flattening after each sharpening seems better than sharpening once every few times. Sometimes I have to work 30 minutes or more on my chosera 400 grit with a lot of silicon-carbide powder applied. My 400 grit chosera is almost at the end of it's life and there is now only about 1cm of stone left.
You got this diamond flattening stone from ebay right? does it leave deep scratches in high grit stones?
+hailtheoaktree I agree.
What? Black and white ebony is indeed super dense wood, and Is most definitely able to achieve a high gloss relatively easy, try to Polish it with some wax and see what ya get because it's pretty easy.
Wako-san, thank you again for sharing such amazingly helpful videos - they are always informative and a pleasure to watch. I find the Gunny grip one of the most comfortable BRKT grips and the blade profile works very well for bushcraft and field dressing. 1) For both processing wood + field dressing, which Gunny steel would you recommend - Elmax, A2, CPM 3V or S35VN? 2) Which Gunny blade profile is best for wood processing and field dressing - regular Rampless? 3) Is there any other make and model of knife you recommend as highly as the Gunny for bushcraft?
+supermountainranger A2 has nice geometry, not too thin, not too fat. 3V has very fat geometry and we should avoid it. We cannot make an expected sharp edge unless we regrind the bevel from a high line. Elmax and S35VN has the same nice geometry as A2. I like A2 Bravo1 the best for my riverside fire making because its 6mm thick blade batons very efficiently and its handle is hand filling and way more stable than Gunny. Thanks.
+virtuovice, Thank you very much for your reply. I'm aware of the Bark River 3V fat geometry issue thanks to your excellent explanations. If you mail it to them, will Bark River reprofile a 3V Gunny to the same profile as an A2 Gunny, free of charge or for a reasonable fee? If the 3V is reprofiled to the same profile as an A2 Gunny, would you prefer the 3V for wood processing and field dressing?
+supermountainranger In case 3V has the same thin geometry as A2, it will get a little more prone to micro chipping from impact or lateral stress. This problem is only on the apex. So you can prevent it by raising the apex angle a little by black compound stropping after having A2 geometry to your 3V Gunny. Then the apex of 3V gets more durable and tougher than A2, and still sharp enough. We can never make an edge sharp enough onto the 3V original fat geometry. Yes. I prefer 3V in the A2 geometry. Thanks.
Hello Dr.Wako, I was just thinking about the different steels you have used throughout the years and was wondering if you've ever tried any knives with N680 or M390 steels, literature says the are highly corrosion resistant and have good edge retention so I think this would work well for your hunting knifes, or river bushcraft knives. I know bark river doesn't make knives from these steels but many other knife makers do, the one bohler steel bark river does use is elmax but I don't think you like it so much anymore.
+Victor Nekrasov I have ever used N680 and its edge holding was extremely poor. Those high corrosion resistant steels are for salt water. I love only fresh water fishing and regular stainless steels are okay on me.
Elmax is prone to micro chips in a small angle although it stays super sharp extremely long. I take this property right to make a backup knife with it. Thanks.
Thank you very much for your reply sir. I'd be curious to see how M390 holds up to your tests but it is not as common among knife makers. I don't have any in Elmax yet but I will take your advice about the edge angle when I do. Thank you.
Bravo1 was sharpened, but it became failed and dirty, so i gave it to my elder brother.
Hello. I appreciate your' videos on sharpening. Nice to see a fellow
hunter and hand loader too. I just bought a 1000/6000 King stone. I wish
I would have watched your videos before or I would not have gone with
6000. Do I need to buy a separate 3000 or could I get a strop and be ok
with the 1/6 thousand. Thanks.
+Nick Ross King 1000/6000 is very popular here for kitchen use. It is suitable for thin and soft stainless kitchen knives. For outdoor thick knives quality stones like Chosera or Shapton are needed in my experience. Shapton 1000, 2000, and Chosera 3000, and Bark River white compound stropping is my regular sharpening of outdoor knives. If you use Bark River black compound before the white one, Chosera 3000 is unnecessary. Thanks.
After watching your videos I want to start using whetstones to sharpen my kitchen and outdoor knives. My plan is to get a Chosera 400 and either a 3000 or 5000. Should I get Chosera 1000 and 2000 or Shapton 1000 and 2000?
+JD Jerry: look at Murray Carter videos on sharpening. I used to think I needed a whole bunch of stones, but I tried his approach and get knives extremely sharp with only two stones:
King Delux 1000 and the King Super Finish 6000.These stones are far less expensive then the chosera and work great (I originally spent a bunch of money on choseras and they work great, but all I use now are the two King stones and get the same finish: 1000, 6000, strop with green or white compound)
+JD Jerry Chosera 400, Shapton 1000 and 2000, Chosera 3000 is my best line. Chosera 1000 is a lillte too fine for the grit. Chosera 2000 is a little soft. 5000 is too fine if we do stropping after. Chosera 3000 is fine enough. Thanks.
Virtuovice I have been watching your knife sharpening videos and have bought a set of King sharpening stones. I noticed that when you sharpen your knife you push away to sharpen the one side and then you bring the knife twords you to sharpen the other edge. I found bring it twords me I had less control so I sharpened my mora knife by using your method holding the knife in my right hand with the tip pointing to the left. However instead of beinging the knife twords me to sharpen the other edge I placed the handle in my left and with tip pointing to the right and pushed forward to sharpen the other edge this way. Is this a mistake I am doing or just another method to achieve the same goal.
correction @ 12:22 my apologies
The handle of this gunny is amazingly beautiful. What is your favorite bark River knife for skinning large to medium game? Is this the best all around hunting knife?
Fox River is specifically designed for big game dressing. Gunny Hunter is just a small derivative knife from Bravo1 for an all round hunting knife.
Thank you for the response Virtuovice, thank you for all of the videos. I am about to buy my first set of water stones and I hope to one day be close to your skill
Because A2 is not fully corrosion resistant, besides giving it a light regular oiling after cleaning, would you also use any substance on a new A2 blade to give it a patina? Will the patina help A2 resist corrosion?
+supermountainranger I don't like forced patina. A2 is not such an easy rusting steel as 1095 or such. Light oiling is enough to keep it from rusting. Thanks.
Hi Mr Wako
What is the compound you applied to the 5,000 grit stone @ 22:32 please and where can I purchase locally in Japan? Thanks again for your great educational video sir.. I wish you could mentor me..
+Marc Godwin That is Nagura stone to make slurry and remove stuck residue from the stone. You can get one from here. They take PayPal and ship overseas by air. I love 天上.
www2.odn.ne.jp/mandaraya/5-tennen-nagura.htm
I currently own king 6000 grit .can you recommend 2 shapton stones? 1 for taking chips out of knives and another to fall in between the king 6000?
Mr. Virtuovice have you ever tried Frog Lube to protect your knives? It's a high tech weapon lubricant and corrosion protector. However, I love it for knives. It smells good and gets deep into the steel as well as being edible. Check it out I think you will really like it. Check it out on CZcams.
hey virtu, has barkriver started to stabilize their wood yet, or is it still shrinking on you. I want to get white ebony Fox river 2 but not excited about it possible shrinkage.
+jcoopdo I think white ebony will shrink a little. White ebony won't make a shiny surface because it is not a dense wood. It will shrink when it is dry and will swell when it is wet. Stabilized burl doesn't shrink although it can crack in relatively high probability. I think you should get your favorite wood and not care about the shrinkage largely. It is inevitably true that many woods shrink.
Mesmerizing PEACE :-)
鹿ハンターさん ですよね？
Where has BlackJack model 125 heavy hunter been???????????????????
arigato gozaimas
i need this one, granolation 10000
For reprofiling your BRKT to a convex-scandi grind, which make and model of sharpening stones do you recommend, and which make and model of strop and compound type?
+supermountainranger If you only need to remove the micro bevel, Shapton 1000 is the appropriate stone. If you need to reprofile the bevel geometry, Chosera 400 is necessary at least. If the reprofiling is a hard one, Shapton 120 can be necessary, and to bridge between 120 and 400, Shapton 220 should be there. I like DLT double sided paddle strop because its leather is thin enough not to take the edge deep, and Bark River white compound which doesn't make the apex round. Thanks.
+virtuovice, Thank you. For maintaining the sharpness of an A2 and a 3V convex blade in the field on a multi-week trip away from home, which light sharpening material might you take with you to maintain the blades?
+supermountainranger I have a small strop and compounds, and some strips of sandpapers of 120, 240, 600, 1000 grits. Thanks.
ahh...I would love a set of those water stones. Anyone know where the best price to get a full set? I gotta have a set of those for my bug out bag. lol
I would love to know the name of that diamond plate to flatten the stones, any help ?
+Wieselkatze Shapton makes a flattening plate.
I am positive it's an iwood diamond plate by koyama or something, the spelling might be off, but go onto toolsfromjapan, look in the diamond plate section and you should find it
+Wieselkatze Go to Ebay and type in the following "SK-11 Diamond whetstone waterstone sharpening stone #150/600".
+powerlinegf +Vincent Tai +Sambuccashake thanks for your help, I'll look into your information ^^
hmmm
I currently own king 6000 grit .can you recommend 2 shapton stones? 1 for taking chips out of knives and another to fall in between the king 6000?