MerCruiser bogging down hesitating problem fixed
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- čas přidán 27. 09. 2018
- A series of troubleshooting tests chasing the reason for the engine bogging down hesitating while trying to achieve full throttle
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Muito bom seu canal!
Great idea. I just had my carb rebuilt and all new gas on my mercruiser 3.0. The engine is idlling high then low and stalling. I will check the pressure. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching the video! Let us know what you find out so we add to the book of solutions 😄
I took my 94 Searay with the 3.0 out a few days ago after it sat for about 2 months. Runs perfectly fine in neutral and at very low speed. As soon as you try to give it any acceleration, it starts stuttering and dies
@@hammondr191887 I think it may have to do with an adjustment of the micro switch that keeps the prop from turning until you advance the throttle. I still have to adjust my throttle as well. I have to gun it so it doesn't stall. check out videos on throttle adjustment. good luck
Good information. Thanks.
My pleasure 😊
Good job!
14theroad1955 thank you :-) I’m glad I found the problem
Thank you so much this was super helpful 🤜🤛
Thank you for watching 😉👍
you need a USGC approved inline fuel filter with a 10 micron filter media directly before the fuel pump inlet.. so you protect the fuel pump check valves..
you also need to ditch the plastic Tee... replace that hose completely.. so its one piece.
the curly clear hose on the device you pointed out i believe goes to a fitting that leads into the air filter housing so any fuel vapors coming out are trapped in the intake. you don't want those vapors or liquid coming out in the bilge.. the inside of the air cleaner housing will need a Tube that the clear hose hooks to . that dumps any vapors or fuel directly above the venturis on the carb..
invest in two quarter sized super magnets from the hardware store.. drop one in each fuel tank to attract any sediment .. keep it out of the fuel system.. its super fine and gets into the fuel pump check valves. make sure the magnets fall to the bottom of the tank.. make sure they are NOT where the sending unit arm can get stuck to them. . i have stuck the arms to the magnet on the bottom of the tank before..
wayne p Thanks so much for all of the advice I really appreciate it and the boat does have a fuel water separator filter also I just did what you said and I put all new fuel lines but pretty much taking all the advice you gave me thank you so much
something caused the fuel pump check valves to stop working.. could have been teflon tape that the ends unravel and hold the check valves open.. the fuel pump check valves.. i.imgur.com/3DtNgj6.jpg
Do you have the video replacing the pump? Thank you for the videos Im learning a lot, please keep posting!!
Chef Critic I don’t think I made a video of replacing the pump but it is very simple the two thing that is important is that the gear lube oil still in side the water pump housing and on the right level ( if is that the setup you have) and I use some aviation sealer on the gasket but everything else is pretty straight forward but if you haven’t done the work yet let me know and Ill make a quick video for you when I get home. Thank you for watching the video my friend 😊👍😉
Don’t forget that these water pump driven fuel pumps rely on the eccentric below it being tight with its clearances to work properly. Grab that roller that is inside that little oil-filled gearbox with an extension magnet and make sure it’s not rattling around in there. If it is, you’ll need to change out that raw water pump for a new one. 👍
Thank you for watching the video my friend! You are absolutely right I had that inside sleeve once start to lose little bits of it because it got too thin. I always check the level of the gear lube between the water pump and the fuel pump but apparently the last owner didn’t. I have a guy that rebuilds them for me and the last time he did it he told me to go ahead and buy a new one next time and save this one as a spare! Thank you so much for sharing!
I’m troubleshooting a 1990 Sea Ray with the 454 Bravo Mercruiser and it’s the old style with the block-mounted pushrod-activated pump. I’m going to just leave the existing pump in place and install a Carter marine electric fuel pump and bypass the old one. With shipping, they’re like 72 bucks and I’ll source some USCG approved 3/8” fuel line and brass hose barbs locally. This boat had a big slug of oily, dirty water in the fuel tank that got in the carb and trashed it with corrosion so it may have ruined the fuel pump too. Had it on the water today with fresh carb and it would idle but simply would not rev above 1000 rpm. I’m going to win, my friend. Just a matter of time!👍
Glad you did this video. Having the same problems after changing out my fuel pump.. Guess they don’t make them like they used too.
Also leaking the blue quicksilver drive line oil out of the water intake on the bottom of my Alpha 1 outboard. Any ideas? Thanks!
Jason Howard thank you for watching my friend.. yeah these fuel pumps are not as they used to be for sure, some companies do a better job than the others but I have a friend that have a large engine shop and his word on it is 100 hours of reliability after that it’s anyone’s game 😆 so you were saying the oil is coming out of the water intake cavities? Have you disconnected the bellows any oil in there? Have you taking the gearbox cover off and take a look to see if there is any oil coming out of there? I would start with that to pinpoint where this oil is coming from! I know it’s not much but I hope it helps. keep me posted I would like to know the outcome 😉
Bad seal below impeller base plate
This might be my issue. When I try to accelerate my 3.0L Mercruiser it likes to stall. I'll check my pressure too. Thanks!
Thank you for watching 😉 good time to slap a new distributor cap too! let us know what you find 👍
Hello. I would like to ask ya what ya think. I have a mercruiser 5.0. Before I go out I fire up the motor to make sure it starts. Its starts the very first turn of the key. But when I get out to the area we beach at and it sits for awhile, i then try to start it and it wont start, its flooded. Cod it be from all the waves and the floats are not working properly? Any help please
Hello my friend thank you for watching the video! For your description I think you are completely correct! Sounds like you are due to a carb rebuild or replacement.. once you shut down your engine the vacuum activated springs pushing the needles are probably letting fuel drip inside of the engine, a simple carb rebuild should fix your problem 🙂
Robert could also need a float adjustment in the carb. The old plastic floats that were not ethanol safe can leak causing the float to not return to its full up and closed position.... Just a thought.
Hi.. I have a 2000 SeaRay with a Mercruiser 3.0l that is a little tricky to get started, but once it starts it idles and runs fine. However.. that is in the driveway. I have put it in the water a couple times and it does very well a little while... eh.. about 45 mins. or so (this is running pretty much WOT the whole time) then is suddenly starts to bogg down at full throttle and will run decent at about half throttle... but every time you put it at full throttle again it will bogg down again... and I made the mistake of bringing it down to idle during the occurrence of this issue today and the engine died and WOULD NOT restart.. (had to be towed in) Is the fuel pump a possibility? I was thinking that maybe the carb was flooding? I'm kinda at a loss. What do you think?
What’s up my friend thank you for watching video! I feel your pain these hesitation issues are the worst! Question after the problem occurred. next day would she start on the morning and run fine again for the about 45 minutes? I dealt with something similar and I was getting a bad case of vapor lock.. i’m not sure if you are familiar with the issue but vapor lock is when the fuel starts to evaporate inside of the fuel line, most cases it happens on the fuel line that is sitting right on top of the engine on its way to the carburetor if it is a carburetor what you have LOL, A few things will contribute for the problem to happen like make sure that no fuel lines are touching any part of the block in my case my fuel tanks sits right next to my engines so after a long run that was contributing to the problem as it was warming up my fuel inside of the fuel tank so I installed insulation around the fuel tanks and insulated all my fuel lines and no more cheap gas and thankfully my problem went away, for the first start of the day I usually spray a little bit of Quickstart on the carburetor because then she starts right away and I’m not draining batteries or overworking my starter‘s trying to get that fuel primed up you know! You will see many videos of hot rod cars getting vapor lock issues sitting on the driveway running on idle, I seen where they put a clear line on the engine so they can see it happening and not even driving around or nothing just sitting on the driveway the car would have vapor lock problems so yeah take a look on that let us know what you find!
Great Idea - I have a 1989 7.4 454 that really loses power when i get her up to 3000 rpm - i am running twins and it appears the port motor is doing all the work. At idle she runs smooth. checked fuel filter - good - checked fuel - clean? I will have to purchase a fuel pressure set up and see where i'm at. Thanks for the tip.
Thank you for watching the video 😉👍 One time also I had same symptom and was a air leak on my fuel line on the vacuum side ( before the fuel pump) a pressure fitting was failing under higher demand. Figured I would share that 😉 let us know what you find out
Have you find the issue?
I have not had the opportunity to check for an air leak - How do i check for that?? Thank you for your response - My fuel line is metal so i cant put a T in place to check pressure. new plugs, wires, cap, rotor to start the season and she was running great - until this. So the vacume side is from the fuel filter to the pump? @@Cruisingthesouth
That is right my friend the vacuum side is from the fuel tank to the fuel filter to the fuel pump and pass the pump would be the pressure side.. I know this problems are frustrating but sometimes end up being the easiest thing ever! I was just thinking about it maybe disconnect your throttle cable from the carburetor and make sure your secondaries are opening.. sometimes when you don’t use it for extended amount of time the secondaries get stuck close I would remove the throttle cable and play with the carburetor and make sure everything is working properly because at 3000 RPMs that’s when the secondaries open and if they don’t open you would be working only on half of power.
Thanks again - I hope to go down tomorrow and spray some carburetor & Choke cleaner down inside. I should be able to see the secondaries by looking down inside the carburetor correct? Really appreciate your reply's - Gives me hope :) i was also thinking of replacing the small filter in the Carburetor where the fuel line comes into the Carburetor ? @@Cruisingthesouth
Great video! How much did you pay for the fuel pump?
Thank you for watching the video 😉
A after market one on Amazon is 58 dollars but a OEM pump they are about $180 and best bet is eBay for that one.
Hey, thanks for the videos. Very good! I don't suppose you've had stalling issues with an engine that's been running at power for 10 mins. Whenever I take it back to idle I have stalling issues. I read the error codes and it says coil driver issue. I change coil driver with my other engine (twins) and it hasn't helped. I cleaned the IAC, swapped the battery out (since that was only giving 9v). I don't know if you have any ideas? It's a 5.7 mercruiser 350.
Liked and subscribed by the way ;)
Hello my friend thank you for watching the video and subscribe! Well what I kind of wanted to hear is that you didn’t replace the coil‘s or swapped them around yet did you? I think that will fix the problem
The reason I say that is because one time I chased my tail around on the same exactly problem I changed everything but the coils nothing worked I put a new coil and the problem was gone
@@Cruisingthesouth Hey man, unfortunately I swapped the coil around with the other engine :(. I used the paperclip + voltmeter method and it's still throwing Error Code 45, "Coil driver fault". I can't seem to find any info on how to troubleshoot an error 45 or what other problems could throw this.
Well hmm 🤔 you already checked the IAC so that’s done.. I wonder if the dead battery is a clue of what’s happening.. so tell me a little more about the engine and what actually happens when you come off plane, does the boat die or just spotters? What carb? What ignition system? these problems are usually something simple we figure this out!!
Having a problem with crusader 270 runs perfect about 1 hour heading out, anchor for 3 to 5 hours, on return trip cant get above 2100 rpm, changed 10 micron, and the smaller canister filter, I believe 3 micron added seafoam, same condition must have something to do with the warmer engine???
Hello friend thank you for watching the video and sorry to hear she’s acting up on you. That’s a tough cookie right there I had a similar problem while back where I was getting vapor lock which is when the fuel starts boiling inside of your fuel lines sometimes the engine will die flat out or sometimes after you shut it off you can’t turn it back on and in some cases you can only ride on low RPM. To mitigate that problem I installed a layer of insulation on the outside of my fuel tanks because my fuel tanks are right next to my engines so I figured one of the factors was my gas getting warmer throughout the period of the cruising, I also insulated the lines running on the very top of the engine to the carburetor and if you have a mechanical fuel pump make sure you have the gear lube that lubes the mechanical fuel pump shaft because if you are low on gear lube there it will heat up your fuel pump causing vapor lock problems. Considering your problem is appearing after the heat sink process your problem could be along with those lines also something that will act up like this is your ignition coil if it is right on the top of the engine make sure that it’s not touching your block usually the bracket keeps it above the block but not touching , if your coil is starting to go after The heat sink it’s possible that she is working fine in lower p.m. but once you increase demand she starts acting out. Unfortunately you’re going to have to try a few things my friend keep us in formed of what you come up with and hopefully someone else can chime in to! 😉👍
@@Cruisingthesouth thanks, I'm gonna be checking dist cap, wires, and coil today, how do you check the fuel pump gear oil
When your bench test the coil she may test OK but fail when she is hot so I would just replace the coil so you know you’re good. And for your fuel pump is it a mechanical fuel pump? and is it sitting on top of your water pump? If so you will see a little flat head cap between the two unscrew that screw gear lube should ose outs and if it doesn’t with a little syringe add to gear lube onto the screw level
How much fuel pressure should you have? Is that a 5.7?
Ty for watching the video 😉 no this is a 454 7.4L. The system only needs 4 psi to work if I remember right but the sweet spot is at 7 but no more the 7 Some Mechanic pumps will do more I seen people put a regulator for it but I never had over pressure problems with my mechanic fuel pumps
I am having the hardest time seeing this tried with 3 different phones already keeps freezing in the beginning of the video what did you find out?
Mikey Kolorhaus That blows I’m sorry but anyways this time was my fuel pump only pushing 3 psi and is supposed to be 7 psi and another time it was a air leak on my fuel line and last but not least it was vapor lock issue which happened once I was riding all day my fuel would warm up to much due to my tanks being right next to my engines so I put insulation between the engine and the tanks to keep my fuel cool and I use my blowers more often now that really helped with the vapor lock issue a hot bulge can definitely cause vapor locking, it’s really annoying I hope that helps my friend thank you :-)
Wonder if this fix the problem at Idol 3 PSI is fine should not go over 5 PSI on a carbureted motor
Thank you for watching the video Morgan! My manual calls for seven psi 🤷♂️ you get less then 3 psi at 1000rpms on your reading? i’m just curious but my pump was failing so I replaced it and the problem was completely gone.. i’m going to put the gauge on the new fuel pump so I can see what it reads! You got me curious LOL 😅 I didn’t check my new pump but I know this pumps are notorious for over pressurizing not under pressure rising let’s see
My 3.0 liter Mercrusier started bogging down suddenly. I changed the fuel filter at the base of the engine, it must not have been changed in years because there was a ton of rust and gunk in it. I cleaned the filter in the carb where the fuel line connects to it. I also cleared out the clear hose that goes from the carb to the fuel filter. I've run three cans of Seafoam through the tank also. I changed the spark plugs and that seemed to help but I've got backfiring. The fuel line on my boat is metal. How would I check the fuel pump pressure? I ordered a new distributor cap and plug wires but haven't installed them yet. My old plugs were black on the ends and someone said my engine is running rich. How do I adjust that? Thank you!!!
Hello my friend thank you for watching the video! Well for the very least I can say that you were going on the right direction! If your fuel filter was that dirty most definitely go ahead and change the distributor cap and rotor and also install your new wires for the spark plugs as probably haven’t been done for the same amount of time. to check the fuel pressure what I have done was removing that metal line and unscrewing the pressure fittings both on the carburetor and on the fuel pump and installing the fitting for a 3/8 fuel line hose so you can connect your gauge, of course afterwords you can put your metal line back but since you mentioned backfire once you do all these things check her timing to make sure that she hasn’t come out of timing I’m not sure what the timing for your specific engine is but I would check that, it’s possible that your distributor moved A little bit and you are out of timing, and for the running rich aspect you can only control that on the lowest RPM possible at idle with the fuel mixture screws on the very front of the carburetor but as soon as you give a little throttle that does not come into play anymore, that is if you have a eldelBrock like mine but usually 2 turns out is where you want to be on those screws, you’re definitely better off running rich then lean, rich causes no problems lean Does and on higher RPM the only way around would be to jet down your carburetor but personally I wouldn’t worry about that like I said you’re better off running rich. I hope that helps my friend and please let us know the outcome 😉
Oh also Look at your fuel thank as well it can be dirty! May be where the rust that is on the filter came from
@@Cruisingthesouth I have a '94 Glastron 3.0 Litre Mercrusier. I can't really look in the tank. I've run three cans of Seafoam through it and am going to use Quick Silver Engine and Fuel System Cleaner next when I pick up the new plug wires and distributor cap. I've never done anything with timing so hopefully I can figure it out without screwing it up! I've never used a fuel pump pressure checker either. I don't know how much pressure my fuel pump should be delivering? That may not be the issue though. I took off the fuel line to clean the filter in the carb and when I put it back on the engine started immediately. That shocked me, I thought it would have had to turn over several times for the fuel to reach the carb?
Not necessarily because inside the carburetor there is a little chamber with a float on a needle so as your engine sips fuel out of the chamber your fuel pump refill that chamber so it’s very possible that there was still fuel inside of the carb which is plenty to run the engine until the fuel pump picks it back up
But yeah you’re definitely on the right track! I’m thinking it’s going to be that distributor cap and rotor and spark plug wires, do the easy stuff first most of the time that’s what ends up being the easy stuff LOL but if he doesn’t do the job come back over here we’ll talk this out, also consider buying a few extra fuel filters because if these cleaning stuff you are using are doing any cleaning they will clog up your fuel filter 🙂
I would go to a brass T . plastic will get brittle fast with fuel
Thank you for watching the video my friend! You are absolutely right I end up not leaving that T there 🙂
What is the pressure supposed to be????
Hello Ryan! On Mercruiser gen 5 454 is supposed to be around 6 to 7 psi 😉
HI MY FRIEND GOOD VIDEO I HAVE A 1995 SEA RAY WITH 454 ENGINE STARBOARD ENGINE IS DOING THE SAME AS YOURS WHEN IT GET TO 4000 RPM START GOING DOWN TO 3500 RPM THEN GO UP TO 4000 RPM JUST UP AND DOWN DO YOU THINK IS THE FUEL PUMP?
Hello Lopes! These Problem most of the Times ends up being fuel starvation for sure! Before taking anything apart do it trill look on your fuel lines because I had this problem 2 times, first time was my fuel pump Giving out so it would work perfect in low RPM but on the high end it would bug down, the second time a pressure fitting of my fuel line system on the vacuum side came lose which on low RPM wasn’t letting air in the system but anything above 3000 RPM it would.. from there on I don’t think that is the secondaries on your carburetor because of 4000 RPM they should have been open for 1000 RPMs already you wouldn’t be able to get to 4000 RPM with closed secondaries.. also to consider would be the pick up tube inside of the fuel tank and if you are checking that and also the breeder for the fuel tank there’s a little screen on the outside of the boat that get clogged up! I am assuming that if you take the boat out of the dock and push it to plane you’ll get problems right away correct? Because if it only happens towards the end of the day you could be getting a vapor lock problems!
@@Cruisingthesouth it does it all the time even when i get out of my dock once i get out the channel i open up and the good engine it goes fast to 4000 rpm the other one take a little be but once it get to 4000 rpm then goes down to 3500 rom then up again to 4000 rpm unless i lower both engine to 3200 rpm the bad engine does it but small scale
I also seen fuel lines collapsing on itself which makes it hard to find but yeah pressure test your fuel pump I would say. seven psi is your sweet spot. Also make sure that all your wires to the spark plugs are good these V-8 engines would run on seven cylinders or even six without you noticing unless on higher RPM.. good luck my friend after your initial check up let us know what you find so we add it to the book of solutions ;-)
How fast you get at 4000 rpms? I always cruise at 3100 and he gets me to 24 kn I guess I’m just a scaredy-cat 😂
@@Cruisingthesouth like 28 29 nots
Hey bro i got mercruiser 5.0 and im having issues when i try to go on plane, the engine sounds like its trying but won’t really go fast, and sometimes it just stops running. When im home and i hook it up to water it runs amazing even at full speed, but when its on the water this keeps happening. Can you please help me with this?
Hello my friend good morning! There is a few things that could be happening there my friend! Ignition coil sometimes will do that I’m assuming your boat is just one engine set up right? Ignition coil sometimes when it’s failing it will work under low demand and cold but once you increase the demand and it heats up it starts acting up like that also the mechanical fuel pump not just the diaphragm goes bad but also the arm mechanism and at times it will work great under low RPM but as soon as you increase demand that type of problems start happening. My first guess would be ignition coil but it will probably turn out to be gas starvation ,check all your fuel lines make sure you don’t have anything loose and the system is not getting air once you increase demand also the pick up tube on the gas tank..from there on check you fuel pump, how many hours you have on the fuel pump? My mechanic guru will swear to you that they don’t last more than 150 hours these days but it’s one of those you can get 150 hours out of them or 1000 hours so I would just replace it if this been there for a while. Start with that my friend you will most likely come across your problem! If none of that works come back in here we’ll talk about this some more 😉👍
Cruising the South thank you so much, will do
Also check to make sure the secondary is opening on the carburetor 😉
@@Cruisingthesouth what is the secondary?
@@leesire If you look down inside your carburetor throttlebody two sets of flaps that opens as you pull on the throttle, the first stage which is the front one opens first and the back ones is the secondaries that usually opens around 2700 to 3000 RPMs depending on your set up! Takeoff your flame arrester and disconnect the throttle cable from the carburetor and with the engine off pull the throttle all the way back like if you had given full throttle on the boat and as you do it look down inside of the carburetor make sure that everything that supposed to open it is opening 😉I had two problems with secondaries before, even if you have no problems there it’s good practice to check on things and for the very least now you know you have no problems there ;-)
I forgot to mention your choke has to be open when you’re doing this test! with the choke closed the secondaries will not open on my carburetor
Let me guess Fala Portugues ;)
Good video !
Andre Desouza hello my friend yep Portuguese! Brazuca 😂
@@Cruisingthesouth same !!!!!:)
Good jot on the video.
I have the same problem.
I will try to replace the pump frist
Thank you !
Cruising the South Hello, tudo em paz? ! Também sou brasileiro e, por favor poderia me dar uma mãozinha. Estou sofrendo e gastando muito e não tenho solução pro meu problema. Meu barco dá marcha lenta perfeita, mas quando acelero ele começa a morrer por volta de 1200 RPM. Se acelero mais forte ele firma o funcionamento e fica ok. Isso acontece com ele frio ou quente(aleatório). Estou quase desistindo pois estou na espera pra manutenção desde junho e a próxima loja a me oferecer serviço será somente em janeiro de 2021. Por favor, me ajude pois era a única diversão que eu tinha. Parabéns pelo seu canal.
Mariuzan - California
@@mariuzangoncalves6138 carburador e gasolina com alcohol nao combina.
Nao use gasolina barata e tente comprar gasolina sem alcohol.
Tenha certeza de trocar os filtros de combustive
Oq eu fiz no meu que tinha o mesmo problema foi uma garrafa de Marvel Mystery Oil - Oil Enhancer and Fuel Treatment, 1 Gallon (da grande)
e metade de um tanque,
fui para o lago e fiquei uns 20 minutos com acelerador no fundo ,desliguei por 10 minutos e mais 20 minutos fiz isso umas 5 vezes
Deu certo para mim.
Se nao der certo vai ter que rebuild o carburador muito provavel.
@@mariuzangoncalves6138
I forgot to mention !!!
make sure if you have to winterize your boat
empty the carburetor don't let gasoline seat for the winter inside the carburetor
Hey - I have this issue czcams.com/users/shortsWfZMvnX_xFA - When I advance the throttle slowly it bogs down and makes puff sounds. I sounded like you describe. One of the sparks is black at the tip and was replaced, but with no fix. The engine is only 8 years old (3.0 TKS 4cyl) - Could it be the petrol pump? or ?
Hello my friend good morning! I watch the video several times.. considering that you will be giving your engine some love I would definitely start with a new fuel pump, fuel pumps these days don’t last as long as they should, I have been told from several sources that if you get more than 100 hours on a mechanical fuel pump these days you are winning, also a very probable culprit could be your distributor cap getting worn out, that would explain the tip of the spark plug black and bad performance but a thing that I couldn’t help to noticed was that at some point your oil pressure flickers I wonder if that was happening before the problem because makes me think that you could have a electric problem somewhere, may be a restriction on the pop up fuse or something, there’s usually one of those by the ignition, on my opinion when you are down there have a voltmeter with you and start checking 12 V all the way from the ignition to the coil while revving the engine up to different revs and see if you can catch a drop on voltage anywhere, I had engines acting up like that and one time was the breaker fuse right by my ignition, 12 V was in one side of it but only half of that on the other end.. but before you go crazy start with a fuel pump and the distributor cap and check your timing after installing in your cap that should at least get you very close my friend. Please let us know what you find I’m so curious.
@@Cruisingthesouth I have ordered a new fuelpump and distributor cap. Will let you know. I also have another video with a very heavy knocking sound on my profile. But the engine sounds solid on revs but and runs fine (except from cannot get it up in full rpm anymore. (czcams.com/users/shortsls1zLLrKXoc)