Try Stay Brite #8 w/stay-Clean flux for soldering your line set connections. Save the brazing for compressor replacements. Also try LaCo Cool Gel for heat barrier. I just carry a pistol grip self lighting torch with a mapp gas bottle screwed on it and it's so convenient. Save the oxy Acetylene for brazing.
Well the newer value tool like the one u have they do that mine does it to the 3/8 line stem on the tools is a little longer it keeps it from going down enough I wish I would have kept my old one for that reason if u could cut a little off the 3/8 end it will go deeper in the suction port
There is a different allen wrench for opening the service valves that has a shorter liquid line part . I would also try to verify if your probe clamps are telling the true reading of the line temps. I once overcharged the crap out of a unit because of some false readings.
On the service wrench it depends on the brand of Chuck your using. I bought some from Amazon and never had an issue. Always can use a Allen key set, might be better in the long run to crack them open.
low super heat is from too much refrigerant or too little air flow. being he (maintenance tech) said the evaporator was dirty, i would say low air flow. probably should have pulled the evaporator and cleaned it while you had the refrigerant out. Also with a txv you should charge by sub cooling. Usually 5-10 degrees is needed.u
Yes but my indoor temp is outside normal txv charging recommendations. The maintenance guy thinks it's dirty but not to where it's messing up airflow. That's why I stopped where I did, and when the apartment cools down and they experience any issues I can better charge the system
😞 Well, so much for raising the bar. 😞 How long is the line-set? It's on the 2nd floor right? It's been 2 months, have you had an opportunity to go back by to check it? Maybe early AM before it gets hot in the day.
@@AB_HVAC yea just cut off a tiny amount off the smaller piece on the bit. Like less than a 1/4 of an inch on the bottom and it’ll fit. I just grind mine down until it fit in the suction valve all the way. They are always little to long I don’t understand why
🤣 yeah I know it's too much but the system will adjust itself better when the apartment isn't blazing hot. When temperatures are more within range I can dial in the charge
Somebody did a video using a longer king valve hex key and provided the link. I forgot who. Also, the filter drier should catch any soot due to brazing w/o nitrogen. Hope you changes it.
Appreciate that, I "technically" changed the filter dryer because there wasn't one here except for the one in the condenser, so the one in the new condenser will have to do lol
At 89 degrees inside the house, I won’t be able to judge the charge. Even manufacturers tell you it has to be below 80. I think you’ve done the right thing. I would like to know if the Evap coil is a mismatch or a match for the condenser. Is the indoor fan speed set correctly? Good video
I can definitely say the only thing that matches the equipment is the fact that they're the same tonnage and brand but they're YEARS in difference. It's a Goodman with a txv installed out of the air handler (the valve and the bulb are insulated) which until I moved down south I had never seen before. Like it screwed to the lock nut piece where the piston would be but it was a txv
They wanted just the condenser replaced so that's what we did. If you're talking about like the extra stuff (armaflex, whip length, etc.) we weren't told to replace that stuff. Everyone knows apartment complexes and property management's want the bare minimum to get people AC
Wow to many experts here , I bet you they graduated from mom basement university 😂 bro I love your videos and please don’t pay so much attention to those comments
Analyze the gauge data… The evap coil is not absorbing enough heat. Why, well it could be a few things, a lack of airflow acrosss the coil for one, The TXV prohibits too much refrigerant although it should be doing a better job than it is doing with 1.5F of superheat. But, the suction line is warm, it should be about 40F, not 57F… check the blower squirrel cage for dirt, the evap coil for dirt, undersized return That head is much too low. Take off the air filter or even the side panel to try force more air flow on the indoor coil, see if that improves the readings. You may have to replace the TXV, it may have a load of crap from someone not nitrogen purging while brazing..😊
It's 80 something degrees in the house, that suction line was sweating like a Hebrew slave. Under normal conditions yes the txv stops the evap coil from getting too much refrigerant but this wasn't normal conditions. When the temp outside and inside lower I'll probably have to be back and adjust the charge
@@AB_HVAC yeah I think so, I've gotten so use to the big tip that it doesn't bother me anymore. I think it's impossible to burn a hole in the copper with the turbo torch....happy hvacing....
@@AB_HVAC that's what I was taught I'm a newer tech a little over a year but that rule of thumb has helped me, for me if vsat is good temp split is ok maybe something is up with the ductwork of the system you were swapping out the condenser I wouldn't force an issue if it is working. Love your channel definitely learned a good bit watching the videos.
you should be seeing 20degree over ambient on your LSAT, it seems you also should be looking at replacing that TXV as well, it seems to be flooding back. its an apartment i have yet to find more than 10% that actually change their filters if there is even one in there. also did you do an acid test?
Filter was okay but if I recommended a new txv to every unit I work on that has indoor temp in 80s and my valve is wide open with 1-3SH, I'd be replacing TXV's in these rentals i work on almost all of July
Why Rx11 flush if it's 410a to 410a? I was only ever taught to do that going from R22 to R410a. And that time, I did not braze with nitrogen. If memory serves me correctly I ran out of nitrogen
@@AB_HVACno superheat or almost no superheat is a dead giveaway that you have an airflow problem. You’re still going to get your DT because you have almost no airflow, so it puts almost no load on the system to cool that small amount of air. Back up for a second and think about what superheat is and it will make sense. SH is the measurement of how much heat the refrigerant has absorbed on its trip through the evaporator coil. If your refrigerant has picked up no SH it’s telling you there is no load on the system. This is always an air side problem. Plugged filter, dead, blower motor, collapsed return duct.
I wouldn't disagree with you. I just didn't want to risk flooding it right now. I'd rather dial in the charge under better indoor conditions. But that's just me personally
I'll take the hit on the armaflex, but there's at least a ft of space to the wall and between the condenser. If you need more space, you might wanna hit the gym. And a plastic pad on top of a perfectly fine concrete pad seems very redundant. Also, no other condenser has a plastic pad on the property so why make this one stick out like a sore thumb?
@AB_HVAC the condenser should be at least 2 inches above the ground, is hard to tell but yours looks at ground level, who use plastic pads wtf? The guy doesn't looks conform on the service side, plus you step on the line, power whip etc, doing extra work your job looks much better,
@jtalonrider4769 The service side is where I braze. My guy sat on a lowes 5 gallon bucket in the same spot I brazed so he could hook up electrical. He didn't once say he was uncomfortable, and the fact he could sit on a bucket to do the wiring speaks imfor itself on the "space to service." I don't deny it could've looked better as far as the armaflex, but the pads are thick and still very much above the dirt it was placed upon.
@jtalonrider4769 they aren't going to pay for all the extra material, the extra labor, we gave them the best we could do for what they wanted to pay for. I'm happy the tennants have cold air, and we haven't gotten called back since we did the installation.
For the service wrench
Just grind the tip a little that makes go deeper and have good grip then it should work everytime
Try Stay Brite #8 w/stay-Clean flux for soldering your line set connections. Save the brazing for compressor replacements. Also try LaCo Cool Gel for heat barrier. I just carry a pistol grip self lighting torch with a mapp gas bottle screwed on it and it's so convenient. Save the oxy Acetylene for brazing.
I swear that look on both of yalls faces when yall heard the condenser making noise, was priceless.
Man 😬 fr
Check air flow, dirty evap coil, open all registers ect. Looks ok, you are not flooding back.
Bro I love your videos I found them fun
Man I try my best to have fun with them. Thanks for the support!!!
Well the newer value tool like the one u have they do that mine does it to the 3/8 line stem on the tools is a little longer it keeps it from going down enough I wish I would have kept my old one for that reason if u could cut a little off the 3/8 end it will go deeper in the suction port
There is a different allen wrench for opening the service valves that has a shorter liquid line part . I would also try to verify if your probe clamps are telling the true reading of the line temps. I once overcharged the crap out of a unit because of some false readings.
On the service wrench it depends on the brand of Chuck your using. I bought some from Amazon and never had an issue. Always can use a Allen key set, might be better in the long run to crack them open.
Great point
It’s ain’t on our schedule today and we ain’t working tomorrow!!! 😂😂😂😂
👌🏾😁
That shit hilarious bro 😂😂
Condenser should be good for 15 to 20 feet of line set length every additional ft add .6 of refrigerant for every foot.
Keep urself a spare acetylene and oxygen bottle. U do good work.
Man I appreciate it. I see you tapping in on a bunch of videos 😅
low super heat is from too much refrigerant or too little air flow. being he (maintenance tech) said the evaporator was dirty, i would say low air flow. probably should have pulled the evaporator and cleaned it while you had the refrigerant out. Also with a txv you should charge by sub cooling. Usually 5-10 degrees is needed.u
Yes but my indoor temp is outside normal txv charging recommendations. The maintenance guy thinks it's dirty but not to where it's messing up airflow. That's why I stopped where I did, and when the apartment cools down and they experience any issues I can better charge the system
Theres a newer slightly longer version bit for the service wrench
I gotta find it 👀
😞 Well, so much for raising the bar. 😞 How long is the line-set? It's on the 2nd floor right? It's been 2 months, have you had an opportunity to go back by to check it? Maybe early AM before it gets hot in the day.
I can't go back unless the tennant says it's not keeping up, and we haven't been back since that day. Thanks for watching the video though
Grind the end of bit on the service valve wrench slightly until it fits. I have to do it every time I buy a new one.
Hmmm you mean like the length of the bit right? Kind of grind off the bottom till it's a snug fit in a valve
@@AB_HVAC yea just cut off a tiny amount off the smaller piece on the bit. Like less than a 1/4 of an inch on the bottom and it’ll fit. I just grind mine down until it fit in the suction valve all the way. They are always little to long I don’t understand why
Love your videos man. Keep it up!👍🏼
Imma try that for sure. I got an extra one anyway if it doesn't work but I take ya word for it
1.5 superheat is too much liquid flooding your compressor, however I didn't know Goodman has adjustable TXV on there Evap coil.
🤣 yeah I know it's too much but the system will adjust itself better when the apartment isn't blazing hot. When temperatures are more within range I can dial in the charge
Somebody did a video using a longer king valve hex key and provided the link. I forgot who. Also, the filter drier should catch any soot due to brazing w/o nitrogen. Hope you changes it.
Appreciate that, I "technically" changed the filter dryer because there wasn't one here except for the one in the condenser, so the one in the new condenser will have to do lol
Great job and attitude have a good weekend thanks for the video
Thanks for watching the video, you too!
Techs that call service valves "king vales" have no idea what a king valve is
I'm sorry that's what I learned in school. Oh, wise one please teach me the correct name of the component I mistook for a king valve
At 89 degrees inside the house, I won’t be able to judge the charge. Even manufacturers tell you it has to be below 80. I think you’ve done the right thing. I would like to know if the Evap coil is a mismatch or a match for the condenser. Is the indoor fan speed set correctly? Good video
I can definitely say the only thing that matches the equipment is the fact that they're the same tonnage and brand but they're YEARS in difference. It's a Goodman with a txv installed out of the air handler (the valve and the bulb are insulated) which until I moved down south I had never seen before. Like it screwed to the lock nut piece where the piston would be but it was a txv
Was it just a flare TXV?@@AB_HVAC
@@kmerc609 it looked like it just screwed onto the nut fitting that most Goodmans had on the coil doors
This looks like yall first install
Either fresh outta school or apprentice
They wanted just the condenser replaced so that's what we did. If you're talking about like the extra stuff (armaflex, whip length, etc.) we weren't told to replace that stuff. Everyone knows apartment complexes and property management's want the bare minimum to get people AC
Big facts @@AB_HVAC
Super tech alert
Aint nobody a super tech 🤣
Wow to many experts here , I bet you they graduated from mom basement university 😂 bro I love your videos and please don’t pay so much attention to those comments
Never mind, your companies procedures are probably different from most.
On burnout compressors we would do that yeah but that's not what this one was. The compressor was grounded.
Maybe non-condensables in the system causing pressures to be thrown off.
I was always told noncondensables would raise the head pressure, mine was fairly low on that.
Analyze the gauge data… The evap coil is not absorbing enough heat. Why, well it could be a few things, a lack of airflow acrosss the coil for one, The TXV prohibits too much refrigerant although it should be doing a better job than it is doing with 1.5F of superheat. But, the suction line is warm, it should be about 40F, not 57F… check the blower squirrel cage for dirt, the evap coil for dirt, undersized return That head is much too low. Take off the air filter or even the side panel to try force more air flow on the indoor coil, see if that improves the readings. You may have to replace the TXV, it may have a load of crap from someone not nitrogen purging while brazing..😊
It's 80 something degrees in the house, that suction line was sweating like a Hebrew slave. Under normal conditions yes the txv stops the evap coil from getting too much refrigerant but this wasn't normal conditions. When the temp outside and inside lower I'll probably have to be back and adjust the charge
@@AB_HVAC Hebrew Slave... 🤣🤣🤣
You should try the turbo torch, no need for oxygen.....i carry two bottle of acetylene only....
My boss uses that. Do they make different torch tips for that setup? I hate the big fat one my boss has on his
@@AB_HVAC yeah I think so, I've gotten so use to the big tip that it doesn't bother me anymore. I think it's impossible to burn a hole in the copper with the turbo torch....happy hvacing....
@@AB_HVAC The kit comes with 2 tips.
You found a bad compressor, flush out any bad contaminants.
Not every bad compressor is a burnout
If short to ground then there was acid in the line sets. It’s a mild burnout. But like I said every company’s procedures are different.
Roll on and monitor temp split good vsat within 35 degrees compared to indoor temp txv could be stuck open
Thanks for that tip, is 35degree kind of like a good gauge to go off of?
@@AB_HVAC that's what I was taught I'm a newer tech a little over a year but that rule of thumb has helped me, for me if vsat is good temp split is ok maybe something is up with the ductwork of the system you were swapping out the condenser I wouldn't force an issue if it is working. Love your channel definitely learned a good bit watching the videos.
Thanks man I appreciate the support, honestly. They never told me that rule of thumb when I was in school. Except for good ol "beer can cold" lol.
you should be seeing 20degree over ambient on your LSAT, it seems you also should be looking at replacing that TXV as well, it seems to be flooding back. its an apartment i have yet to find more than 10% that actually change their filters if there is even one in there. also did you do an acid test?
Filter was okay but if I recommended a new txv to every unit I work on that has indoor temp in 80s and my valve is wide open with 1-3SH, I'd be replacing TXV's in these rentals i work on almost all of July
Can you tell me why you guys bang on lines when you are brazing?
I sometimes do it to push the pipe just a bit more into the joint.
@@AB_HVAC ahhh ok. Love the videos!
You don’t flash out the line set with rx11 before installing a new condenser? Or braze by purging nitrogen?
Why Rx11 flush if it's 410a to 410a? I was only ever taught to do that going from R22 to R410a. And that time, I did not braze with nitrogen. If memory serves me correctly I ran out of nitrogen
Txv is likely clogged and if the indoor coil is dirty your not getting enough air flow across the coil
If it was clogged or even not enough airflow across coil, how would my superheat be so low and my Delta T so good?
@@AB_HVACno superheat or almost no superheat is a dead giveaway that you have an airflow problem. You’re still going to get your DT because you have almost no airflow, so it puts almost no load on the system to cool that small amount of air.
Back up for a second and think about what superheat is and it will make sense. SH is the measurement of how much heat the refrigerant has absorbed on its trip through the evaporator coil. If your refrigerant has picked up no SH it’s telling you there is no load on the system. This is always an air side problem.
Plugged filter, dead, blower motor, collapsed return duct.
It sounds like a loose bulb.2 cents.
Always try to do a full change out. Just to save your self
Well yeah but I can only pray they go the more expensive route
Let it rip bro. A/C works fine at my house. You did a condenser so thats the only thing i would touch. They should of replaced the whole thing.
I like the way you think 👍🏾
adjust the valve, to much superheat. And, supercool is too low.
super long line set, I'd add some gas...
I wouldn't disagree with you. I just didn't want to risk flooding it right now. I'd rather dial in the charge under better indoor conditions. But that's just me personally
Vsat is within range compared to indoor temp close to 20 split with supply and return roll on add in notes to monitor system txv could be stuck open
I got into the habit of installing a sight glass on long TXV runs to verify solid liquid provided to txv
I seriously thought people stopped putting sight glasses in, unless it was commercial
@@kennyjustman933that’s not a bad idea, especially if the lineset is longer than 25ft.
Having the service against the wall? No new armaflex or painted uv?no pad? Or tie downs? I mean you got to be a new hvac guy
I'll take the hit on the armaflex, but there's at least a ft of space to the wall and between the condenser. If you need more space, you might wanna hit the gym. And a plastic pad on top of a perfectly fine concrete pad seems very redundant. Also, no other condenser has a plastic pad on the property so why make this one stick out like a sore thumb?
@AB_HVAC the condenser should be at least 2 inches above the ground, is hard to tell but yours looks at ground level, who use plastic pads wtf? The guy doesn't looks conform on the service side, plus you step on the line, power whip etc, doing extra work your job looks much better,
@jtalonrider4769 The service side is where I braze. My guy sat on a lowes 5 gallon bucket in the same spot I brazed so he could hook up electrical. He didn't once say he was uncomfortable, and the fact he could sit on a bucket to do the wiring speaks imfor itself on the "space to service." I don't deny it could've looked better as far as the armaflex, but the pads are thick and still very much above the dirt it was placed upon.
@jtalonrider4769 they aren't going to pay for all the extra material, the extra labor, we gave them the best we could do for what they wanted to pay for.
I'm happy the tennants have cold air, and we haven't gotten called back since we did the installation.
@AB_HVAC no problem, just making opinions we all work different and here in fl codes are maybe different too, good luck and keep working hard
Close y he service valves. On olð unit or the oil will shoot out on you got I t alot just to let you know man it is nasty
Yeah I didn't think to do it when I cut it out. That was my bad for sure.