here is my comment ,your a hard working young man trying to help people, by reading through the comments and your going to pick up a lot of good info that some of us have been doing this type of things for 40 or 50 years good job,,,keep up the good work
I repair heavy equipment for a living, I always drill the bolt first, slowly and preferably a left hand bit. Then if you have to heat the bolt and when it cools it will shrink to the hole you drilled thru it
@@gophersanders6542 I agree. I also repair heavy equipment. Whenever you need to heat something up to get it unstuck, always try to heat up the piece you plan on throwing away.
As a shade tree mechanic who at times has tried and failed to remove difficult broken-off studs, I thought it might be easier if I had better tools. Watching you made me understand that better tools, combined with training and experience, made the job possible, but not necessarily easier. Thanks for the video and for sharing your tips with us.
My grandfather was in the Army Corps of Engineers (as a commisioned officer) back in the 1950s. He told me one of their mottos was "don't tell me why you can't, tell me how you can. Well, brother...you certainly lived up to that motto in this video. Of course, when you live on a farm, it's basically do or die. Whatever the case may be, great job, brother.
i liked how you prefaced it with not blaming the guy that cobbled it together before. I've really been keeping in my mind you never know what someone is going through and so it makes sense they made a on the spot repair that may have looked like junk. glad that you fixed it right and took the time to explain everything. it was fun to watch the whole way through
Tip from a hobby machinist: don't run a drill wide-open in steel! It can't get a good bite running that fast and you just end up dulling your bit. Start slow, and as it cuts more and more, you can start to bring the speed up. I typically don't get over half-throttle with a battery powered hand drill. The thicker and/or harder the steel, the slower you need to go.
Thanks for the comment. Well I am not a purest with drill bits, but I have drilled a hole or two. I have never heard of slowing down in thicker material that's a new one for me.
I agree. if you're drilling wide open and getting little needles for chips, you need to slow down or get more feed pressure. i also keep a solid carbide drill bit to get me out of tricky situations. Drilled a broken off Allen key out of a set screw with em once no sweat.
I learnt that too as an apprentice, I smoked a drill on Stainless and an old guy told me to slow it right down. High speed just gets hot, and that's is what blunts a drill bit really quickly. heat is your enemy drilling
One thing that I had in my toolbox was a masonry bit. I had a 3/16, 1/4, and 5/16. You will need to take them to a machine shop to get them sharpened, but I used them on broken exhaust studs on 3406 and 3408 Cat engines. They are tough, and like has been mentioned several times, slow the bit speed down. Another thing to try after you get a hole through it is to heat it up through the hole and like someone else said, hit it with water to cool it quickly. Hopefully it will shrink and loosen up. I use to have to remove large pins that were rusted in. (3" to 5") Cat had a tool called an oxygen lance. It uses magnesium rods and they will poke a hole in ANYTHING. Steel, concrete, rocks, etc. After the hole is made let it cool for a while, or use water. I tried to push a suspension pin out of a 777 and had a ram hooked up to push it out. I had 100 tons of pressure on it and it did not move. I had the welder poke a hole in it that night, and the next day I tapped it out with a 3 pound hammer. I agree with you about the EZ outs. They usually do not work.
I appreciate your videos very much. I am 70 and learned a lot from old machinist's. Your appreciation and respect for trades is a rare thing now days. I have machines from the 40's and still cranking out parts.
I worked on the railroad for over 30 years ...the best way to remove a stud is to just weld a flat washer to the broken off stud.then put a larger nut and weld to the waxher thru the hole...dont wast your time with a torch. The welding heats it up and then the outside of the nut is pristeen for a socket. On an impact gun. On the holes that are stripped , you can drill it out a d insert a bolt thru the back with a piece of flatbar welded on the head so it wont twist. Ir. Wld up the hole, aneal with a torch and then tap or use a Helicoil insert. Thanks for your video
Guy, this is easy. Drill a nice large hole into the bolt (not into the threads), maybe half way is all you need. Then, take your mig, and fill the hole back up with weld. This makes the broken bolt nice and cherry red. Weld a washer onto the broken off bolt, and finally weld a nut to the washer. At this point, the bolt is still warm enough (all the way through) that it will easily unthread, either with a wrench (nice and gentle), or an impact (fast). btw: when drilling steel, start slow, and never drill real fast. All that does is create heat which will dull your bits. Yes, you can use HSS bits too, but relax, and slow down. There's never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it a 2nd time...
Good stuff! I dig the long cut, no BS videos. Just work and information from start to finish. And props for talking to the viewers. It's rarely understood how much really goes into a video like this. Subbed
That 6011 won't take the vibration of the impact. Also, I like to spray a combination of transmission fluid and diesel after the heating. As the metal cools the oil is drawn in around the stud and makes removal easier. You did a good job anyway.
35 yrs doing this stuff, little tip is set the bolt 3/4 way off center of the broke stud and then get a good fillet from the broken stud to the bolt. it's much stronger than a little ring around the outside. thanks for the video
Weld a washer over top of the broken stud, fill up the hole in the washer. Then weld a hex nut or larger bolt to the washer. It's MUCH easier than trying to weld a bolt to the stud.
OR heat it up with a rosebud and throw water on it.. cut slot in it and remove with screwdriver, only on steel never cast unless you are talented. save the drill bits for future use
Joel,I agree with you 100%. Been doing it that way for over 40 years. If that doesn't work then go to the other means like drilling and repairing threads as needed.
Very impressive, sir! I particularly liked your explanation towards the end, as to why you did it this way. My father was a tool maker, turned engineer, and he always did his own mechanical work, with the ethic of doing it the right way (and more often than not, that was the old fashioned way).
Stumbled across you videos a couple weeks ago. I've only had a small handful of "jobs" in my life. I think what you do is probably one of the "best jobs" a body could have. I like to help people. It is a good feeling to see a body smile. Back in the nineties...they shut the weld shop down at the high school I attended. Two years before I got to high school...a dozen booths...hundreds of feet of oxy-fuell line....all kinds of tools...welders...just sat there. Kids vandalized everything...smoked in the booths. No one can go back but I wonder how many lives were shit on when they removed that trade from the curriculum...five years ago (through CZcams) I taught myself to weld. Started with SMAW. I was told that stick was the thing to start with. If I could manage that....I could manage all of the processes....mostly true as there is a technique to GTAW. Up until this current administration...I had planned to exit concrete and move into welding/ mobile repair. I caught on to welding almost immediately. And realized quickly that welding is where it is at....period. And things were going good for me as far as achieving that goal. Then....we were lied too....and cheated. But! What makes this time different? They didn't hide it. Nope, they stuck it right in our faces....now they are running a smear campaign against anyone who might stand up for themselves and others....saying that healthy people are making healthy people sick....WTF??? What a "flawed logic" .... and to think that folks are actually buying into this nonsense....I'm gonna keep on keeping on...and do my best to keep a smile. But everyday that goes by....I see more and more lies. We have ALL been mislead. Boooooooooooo!! Happy welding! It is Saturday here in Northern Michigan and I'm waiting on day light to go out and work on a wood stove I've got mostly built. Been so hot. 😁
Wanted to see how you would correct the rim? A tool maker since 1962 I have removed many a broken bolts. We didn't have left hand drills, today use them first with slow rpms. If they can be drilled (not hardened) drill to the recomended easy-out inside diameter. Then throw the packet of eazy-outs in a lake. Now get a 10 inch adjustment wrench, a small ball peen hammer and all your flat files. Remove the file handle which has a tang which just starts into the drilled hole. Insert the tang until the angle stops, now tap a few blows with the hammer until the sharp corners 'bite' into the hole's sidewalls. Too hard will egg shape the broken bolt remainder! Adjust the wrench to clamp on the file flats, apply downward pressure on the file with one hand and back out the broken piece with the other hand/wrench. Also heed the lots of good advice from the other comments. IE ground the hub, heat one item only, lubricate, blow away chips before rotating, slow rpm and many others.
Good job. A trick for you: to start a bolt, a nut, or a screw = first, turn it counter-clockwise, until you feel it fall into matching threads. This helps to prevent cross-threading... Greatly! You'll like it.
As painful as it was to watch you do it, you made a relief hole... why on earth didn't you go back to your welded stud after that!?!?!?! You were right there, man!!! Btw, the washer and nut works infinitely better because it offers you far more surface area for the weld, more penetration, plus it protects the base metal of the hub from being welded.
A very good video. I've been working on classic cars for decades and often have these problems. In this case, you have great access and once you've drilled enough to get a mini-hacksaw blade through the hole, you can cut a slot and then chase the broken 'tube' of the fixing out with a punch. As mentioned below, a welded washer or nut often works well as it gives you space to add plenty of weld without harming or welding to the flange.
well done finally someone shows how to do it and more importantly the real world aspect not the perfect world version where it all goes right the first time
Wow, I wish I had your patience, not to mention your skill set!!! There were several points in which I would have been discouraged, but you kept on...great job in all regards!!!!!
It's probably been mentioned all ready, But because of the condition of those holes I would have gave some serious thought to using the New wheel as a index guide and center punching, redrilling, and tapping 8 new holes in between the original holes.
Oh god that is a good idea, just bless the old plugged messed up holes and start fresh. For me it is hard sometimes to let go once I get started on a job, I get kind of polarized and obsessed with overcoming the challenge.
Love this video. Watched it many times. So representative of real life situations requiring variety of tried and true techniques and improvising new ones. Also remarkable for your patience and a paucity of standard expletives usually employed to accomplish obstreperous tasks.
Reading the comments, it's interesting to see all the tips for doing this job. Everyone has their own ideas of how it should be done, some of which might speed things up, but the main thing is the job got done. I enjoyed watching the film; it was strangely relaxing. Your calm determination and persistence is amazing to me, as I'd have have chucked the thing into the next field long before starting to drill. I look forward to watching more from your channel. Thanks.
here is another trick to you from an old timer;;; on everything car truck tractor everything, i allways spray paint both stud and hole before in screw m. even if i just painted it and took it out a minute ago. paint both again. it will screw easyer and 3 years later it will come out like yesterday. [ helps stop electrolises and rust and still be there like a coating so threads slide easyer.] a dollar for cheap spray can paint works fantastic.
weak loctite (242 or similar ) does the trick too, I tested that on submerged steel fasteners and 10 years later, the exposed portion of the bolt was completeny shot while the thread inside the nut was in as new condition and I easily disassembled the bolt with a simple wrench .
Also, you want to constantly or frequently spray the bit with lubricant. This isn't for actual lubrication but to keep the bit cool. It will parking the life and edge of your bits !!
I have used a pin punch ground on an angle to make a round chisel to clean out the threads after drilling most of the threads out. The really tricky part is finding center because the thread overhangs on one side and makes it look like your centered when you are not. The best results I have is to start with a small size drill and watch closely before going to deep because you can angle the drill and move the center where it needs to be, but not after you get a hole started very deep.
No tips from me! I wanna say I appreciate how you filmed this whole thing with all of the tough problems you had until the very end. All the problems and you overcoming em is what gave such value to this job..You showed great persistence. Hope you got paid enough to make it worthwhile.. like you said, to go the other way and get a new axle would’ve been way more costly and your client needs to pay you what your worth because you saved him a pile of money by your hard work! Thanks for the education!
The way I was taught in the 70's is ---- Once you drill a hole clear through the broken stub, it shrinks. Then you could have return to weld a bolt / washer nut. Also, because you have access to both sides you can add heat to one side then spray penetrating oil on the other, The heat will pull it through the threads and after it cools do the same to the other side. When you want to impact it out, heat the metal around the stud. This helps widen the gap in the threads. So 1. you shrunk the bolt by drilling a hole clean through. 2. You pull penetrating oil through the threads. 3. you widen the thread gap even more by heating the metal around the broken stud. Nice work.
I've had my share of broken bolts, and have had about 75% success. Working on equipment that has been in a lot of salt makes it a lot harder. Nice work though. You saved that farmer a good bit of money, not to mention a lot of time.
Toilet ring. It’s beeswax. Takes to heat paraffin base wax will just catch on fire
Před 6 lety+12
After he heated up the bolts to break the rust he should of let it cooled and poured a load of penetrating oil and let it soak in. Then weld his bolt on and do the same before he tried turning it. Dry rust will just jam up.
Dude, I actually took the time to wath the entire video. I learned a lot and just wanted to say thanks alot. Plus, You have a good manner and talk for this stuff.
This is a great video, lots of great information that I have not seen before, this will help me a lot if I ever have another broken off bolt. Thank you for sharing this video with us and for your patience, I know these kinds of things can be stressful and aggravating in many ways. I will go and watch some of your other videos. Thanks again.
You are one tenatious dude and I know that is what it takes sometimes. Good to watch where we put the welding ground so as not to arc through the bearings.Thanks
Use an impact socket. Why? They are stronger. Chrome sockets are general duty. Strong enough? Maybe. But if not, they could crack and maybe even shatter. Good safety tip for you and your viewers. Also, always use anti-seize on these bolts / studs on assembly to make it far easier to remove next time.
looks like a wheel hub. NEVER use anti-seize on any wheel stud. will prevent wheel from staying tight and will vibrate loose from wheel heating up and cooling. Have been a master mechanic for almost 30 years and have repaired many a vehicle that has had a wheel come loose from some idiot who used anti-seize on studs. Not to mention the body damage, and possible injury to somebody when this happens.
Yup! Especially the cheap ones will crack. I have a set of sockets from Bahco made for using them with an impact driver. They are ten+ years now, still, they look like new.
I've been a mechanic for 30+ years. I've always used the same set of chrome sockets with impact wrenches. The only sockets I've ever broken are black impact sockets. One of them mushroomed at the end like a chisel. The key is don't be a moron with the impact. If you have to keep the trigger squeezed, hammering on the bolt, you need to use heat or something else to help break the bolt free.
The reason you don't use chromed sockets for an impact gun is that if the chrome flakes off and you're holding the socket you get that flake spun right into your skin. You can use them, just don't hold onto them, don't be such a douche as obviously Steve has decades of experience... Also you'll notice that the bolt was a 12 point bolt and almost every impact socket is a 6 point unless you specifically look for a 12 point impact set. Most folks would rather have 6 though as there's less chance of rounding off..
this makes me glad i am retired they always showed up on Friday afternoon with a job like this... and got upset because i was always closed on Saturday as i went to church that day and they just did not under stand your supposed to break stuff on Monday so there is time to fix it before the weekend :=)
I love the amount of comments you got. Some good guy's out there with helpful hints and tips. I can't help thinking some of the "experts" watch these videos to find faults and enjoy rubbishing others. I reckon you did well, some of the tips might be worth a try next time and maybe another video? Good on you for putting it out there and getting the job done. Rant over, cheers.
It is so easy to tell the commenters are older, experienced people. I love it. Compared to comments on the internet as a whole, 99% of the people here offered respectful advice based on their experience. Most said thanks. Some gave Classic Works the elbow with an smile. I wish the online world worked like this. I learned a ton from all of it. Thanks.
Love the video and as a few other people said the commentary was great. Really informative and very useful. Although I don't even work on anything like this due disability having the knowledge in the back of your mind is a powerful thing to have.
Heating a large area with a hole in it will cause the hole to become smaller! If you can't heat an area which goes to the perimeter of the "thing" you are heating, the expansion has to go somewhere, and it goes to the hole, making it smaller. Sometimes, though, even making the bolt tighter in the hole is enough to break the corrosion/adhesions and break it loose.
Your right about EZ outs, junk. And I agree with others on slower drillin. But I can't never bad mouth a guy who never gives up. Dawn to dust, "just don't never give up, only a puss would". And I like 7018, but on a grade 8 or harder bolt even 11018. And MOST of all GREAT job guy. Got er done! ☺
Extractors have their place. For fasteners that snapped because of trauma. If your fastener has snapped trying to remove it, don't use an extractor. If it snapped because it was ripped apart, and it moves when drilling it, then an extractor will work.
Looking from my side when you had that bolt moving you needed to warm the outer part of the flange a bit and use penetrating oil working back and forth and it would have cleaned up. More than likely rust formed on back side of stud to jamb the stud there. I never had a bolt in steel that would lock up doing it with care and patience. good video though like the burn out view though.
You have a gift. As a machinist, yes; but I mean you can make a boring nightmare project look and sound interesting. Your voice and diction are incredible. I look forward to more of your videos.
I think you would have gotten out after the first weld had you used some penetrant oil and worked it in an out, so close though. I've also heated the bolt/stud then quickly cool the bolt stud, it will retract a little from the parent metal which has expanded, both will work to make it come out ,that works really well on pipe thread plugs . you showed a lot of patient in the job.
As said before, lower your drill speed. You are drilling not grinding. These insane speeds are good for drilling wood. Left handed drills works sometimes. If the welded on bolt did not go out why not trim it down and srcrew it thru?
As a machinist and a mechanic I was taught a long long time ago to never start to drill fast and use plenty of oil to lube the bit especially in steel. The harder the steel and the larger the diameter of your bit the slower you need to go. I would also recommend using a good heavy duty drill with a cord and a keyed chuck than a cordless with a hand tightened chuck. It keeps your bits from slipping because you can get the chuck torqued better onto the bit and if you use bits with flats on the shank it helps to get all of the power from the drill to the bit instead of slipping too. I work on mining equipment and drill/mill/bore all different types, thicknesses , & hardness of steels and we never have this much problems with bolts usually. I liked your approach but get some different types of steel and try different lubes, and speeds with the sizes of drill bits to see what works best. Oh here's a cool tip for hole sizing too. If you need the hole a little over sized use an oil as the cutting lubricant if you want it to drill a little undersized use a thinner coolant like a steady flow of water into the hole the bit is drilling. Also like was mentioned in another comment from another machinist kerosene make for an excellent lubricant for drilling holes too.
Well sir you got my attention to the point of me subscribing. Impressed not by just what you've done .but your commentary too .One of the few I've heard separating the wheat from the chaff in you know what I mean Darren UK
You're getting a lot of crap here in these comments but as a diy'er I salute you. I'm learning a lot as well... and crap I'm old as dirt! Thank you for this video.
Cool Stuff, one piece of advise. Use the drill at a slower speed and give the bit a chance to cut. Also use cutting oil while you drill. This will keep the bit cool and not dull as quickly. But I liked the video a lot. I am an auto mechanic and deal with shit like this every week. It SUCKS!!!!
I really enjoyed watching this video,it gave me food for thought, in that I have/ had a stubborn Allen head bolt on a bearing case, the last one to come out....... You have the patience of a saint and patience is what I got from this, lol... That bolt had been in there for sixteen years, so not bad for a weekend tinkerer.. Great video and thanks for the tips Cheers!
Also, the drill was running too fast....need to be much slower 2/. Then use some penetrating oil,and unscrew it by hand to avoid creating heat and expansion. You say that the centre drill so called "walked". When that happens on a job like you have, I use a small twist drill to drill right through, then a rotary file to bring the hole to centre, then and only then do I use a larger drill bit.
What you need to do heat up on hub around broken bolt red hot with an oxyacetylene torch.This would have probally worked the first time when using the weld on bolt method .-Steve
I couldn't support you more Joe! Not all of us have the kind've work you can tackle on the bench and press. This is real world fixes. Nice fucking Job, I say! both with the tractor and putting the troll in his place! I'm gonna quote your dads saying too, They are already words I live by!
here is my comment ,your a hard working young man trying to help people, by reading through the comments and your going to pick up a lot of good info that some of us have been doing this type of things for 40 or 50 years good job,,,keep up the good work
1)Slow the drill speed.
2)Left hand drill bits.
3)Lube the bits.
4)Heat around the bolt, not the bolt.
my sentiments, exactly!
yes your right DO NOT HEAT THE BOLT YOU HAVE TO HEAT AROUND THE BOLT TO MAKE THE BORE EXPAND.
I repair heavy equipment for a living, I always drill the bolt first, slowly and preferably a left hand bit. Then if you have to heat the bolt and when it cools it will shrink to the hole you drilled thru it
Dito on the left hand drill bit.
@@gophersanders6542 I agree. I also repair heavy equipment. Whenever you need to heat something up to get it unstuck, always try to heat up the piece you plan on throwing away.
As a shade tree mechanic who at times has tried and failed to remove difficult broken-off studs, I thought it might be easier if I had better tools. Watching you made me understand that better tools, combined with training and experience, made the job possible, but not necessarily easier. Thanks for the video and for sharing your tips with us.
My grandfather was in the Army Corps of Engineers (as a commisioned officer) back in the 1950s. He told me one of their mottos was "don't tell me why you can't, tell me how you can.
Well, brother...you certainly lived up to that motto in this video. Of course, when you live on a farm, it's basically do or die. Whatever the case may be, great job, brother.
i liked how you prefaced it with not blaming the guy that cobbled it together before. I've really been keeping in my mind you never know what someone is going through and so it makes sense they made a on the spot repair that may have looked like junk. glad that you fixed it right and took the time to explain everything. it was fun to watch the whole way through
Tip from a hobby machinist: don't run a drill wide-open in steel! It can't get a good bite running that fast and you just end up dulling your bit. Start slow, and as it cuts more and more, you can start to bring the speed up. I typically don't get over half-throttle with a battery powered hand drill. The thicker and/or harder the steel, the slower you need to go.
Thanks for the comment. Well I am not a purest with drill bits, but I have drilled a hole or two. I have never heard of slowing down in thicker material that's a new one for me.
I agree. if you're drilling wide open and getting little needles for chips, you need to slow down or get more feed pressure. i also keep a solid carbide drill bit to get me out of tricky situations. Drilled a broken off Allen key out of a set screw with em once no sweat.
solid kobalt but and drilling oil works well too
I learnt that too as an apprentice, I smoked a drill on Stainless and an old guy told me to slow it right down. High speed just gets hot, and that's is what blunts a drill bit really quickly. heat is your enemy drilling
One thing that I had in my toolbox was a masonry bit. I had a 3/16, 1/4, and 5/16. You will need to take them to a machine shop to get them sharpened, but I used them on broken exhaust studs on 3406 and 3408 Cat engines. They are tough, and like has been mentioned several times, slow the bit speed down. Another thing to try after you get a hole through it is to heat it up through the hole and like someone else said, hit it with water to cool it quickly. Hopefully it will shrink and loosen up.
I use to have to remove large pins that were rusted in. (3" to 5") Cat had a tool called an oxygen lance. It uses magnesium rods and they will poke a hole in ANYTHING. Steel, concrete, rocks, etc. After the hole is made let it cool for a while, or use water. I tried to push a suspension pin out of a 777 and had a ram hooked up to push it out. I had 100 tons of pressure on it and it did not move. I had the welder poke a hole in it that night, and the next day I tapped it out with a 3 pound hammer.
I agree with you about the EZ outs. They usually do not work.
Great video. I especially like how it got machinists and others to add their helpful hints. Very Educational.
I appreciate your videos very much. I am 70 and learned a lot from old machinist's. Your appreciation and respect for trades is a rare thing now days. I have machines from the 40's and still cranking out parts.
I worked on the railroad for over 30 years ...the best way to remove a stud is to just weld a flat washer to the broken off stud.then put a larger nut and weld to the waxher thru the hole...dont wast your time with a torch. The welding heats it up and then the outside of the nut is pristeen for a socket. On an impact gun.
On the holes that are stripped , you can drill it out a d insert a bolt thru the back with a piece of flatbar welded on the head so it wont twist. Ir. Wld up the hole, aneal with a torch and then tap or use a Helicoil insert. Thanks for your video
what ,if the stud is recessed, can't weld a washer to the stud???
Zoltan vacsi I have had that before, I use a mig and slowly and carefully build up the stud to the surface then weld a nut on
Lee make a video please
Old machinist tip: aluminum fast, steel slow. (in regard to drilling or cutting speeds)
Absolutely right I drilled holes in railroad tracks, it was a slow process,
Pilot holes would speed the whole deal up dramatically.
The before and after are as stark as day and night. I enjoyed watching, learning. Thanks.
Guy, this is easy. Drill a nice large hole into the bolt (not into the threads), maybe half way is all you need. Then, take your mig, and fill the hole back up with weld. This makes the broken bolt nice and cherry red. Weld a washer onto the broken off bolt, and finally weld a nut to the washer. At this point, the bolt is still warm enough (all the way through) that it will easily unthread, either with a wrench (nice and gentle), or an impact (fast).
btw: when drilling steel, start slow, and never drill real fast. All that does is create heat which will dull your bits. Yes, you can use HSS bits too, but relax, and slow down.
There's never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it a 2nd time...
Good stuff! I dig the long cut, no BS videos. Just work and information from start to finish. And props for talking to the viewers. It's rarely understood how much really goes into a video like this. Subbed
Thanks for the sub! Glad to hear that long videos are appreciated.
I am subbing in just a few seconds, this sort of education is exactly what I need. Thanks Classic Work
Get some penetrating oil on those threads.
Drilling WAY TO FAST.
whitey george We either use thread lock or anti-seize on all bolts & nuts, They both have their uses,,
That 6011 won't take the vibration of the impact. Also, I like to spray a combination of transmission fluid and diesel after the heating. As the metal cools the oil is drawn in around the stud and makes removal easier. You did a good job anyway.
Very impressed with your abilities, knowledge, tenacious attitude and perseverance to complete the project.
35 yrs doing this stuff, little tip is set the bolt 3/4 way off center of the broke stud and then get a good fillet from the broken stud to the bolt. it's much stronger than a little ring around the outside. thanks for the video
Weld a washer over top of the broken stud, fill up the hole in the washer. Then weld a hex nut or larger bolt to the washer. It's MUCH easier than trying to weld a bolt to the stud.
great idea !!!
Joel Sullivan Very right. Also throw those 6011 rods in the lake. 7018 or 6010 all the way.
OR heat it up with a rosebud and throw water on it.. cut slot in it and remove with screwdriver, only on steel never cast unless you are talented. save the drill bits for future use
Joel,I agree with you 100%. Been doing it that way for over 40 years. If that doesn't work then go to the other means like drilling and repairing threads as needed.
Yes I have gotten out more broken bolts out with the nut and washer method from 1/4-20 on up
Very impressive, sir! I particularly liked your explanation towards the end, as to why you did it this way. My father was a tool maker, turned engineer, and he always did his own mechanical work, with the ethic of doing it the right way (and more often than not, that was the old fashioned way).
Stumbled across you videos a couple weeks ago. I've only had a small handful of "jobs" in my life. I think what you do is probably one of the "best jobs" a body could have. I like to help people. It is a good feeling to see a body smile. Back in the nineties...they shut the weld shop down at the high school I attended. Two years before I got to high school...a dozen booths...hundreds of feet of oxy-fuell line....all kinds of tools...welders...just sat there. Kids vandalized everything...smoked in the booths. No one can go back but I wonder how many lives were shit on when they removed that trade from the curriculum...five years ago (through CZcams) I taught myself to weld. Started with SMAW. I was told that stick was the thing to start with. If I could manage that....I could manage all of the processes....mostly true as there is a technique to GTAW. Up until this current administration...I had planned to exit concrete and move into welding/ mobile repair. I caught on to welding almost immediately. And realized quickly that welding is where it is at....period. And things were going good for me as far as achieving that goal. Then....we were lied too....and cheated. But! What makes this time different? They didn't hide it. Nope, they stuck it right in our faces....now they are running a smear campaign against anyone who might stand up for themselves and others....saying that healthy people are making healthy people sick....WTF??? What a "flawed logic" .... and to think that folks are actually buying into this nonsense....I'm gonna keep on keeping on...and do my best to keep a smile. But everyday that goes by....I see more and more lies. We have ALL been mislead. Boooooooooooo!! Happy welding! It is Saturday here in Northern Michigan and I'm waiting on day light to go out and work on a wood stove I've got mostly built. Been so hot. 😁
I appreciate your efforts! Ground clamp placement is important when welding so you don't arc a bearing.
That was sweet !!!! I am an Operator & Oiler.. What a day in class this was. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!! Old School is the only school.....
Wanted to see how you would correct the rim? A tool maker since 1962 I have removed many a broken bolts. We didn't have left hand drills, today use them first with slow rpms. If they can be drilled (not hardened) drill to the recomended easy-out inside diameter. Then throw the packet of eazy-outs in a lake. Now get a 10 inch adjustment wrench, a small ball peen hammer and all your flat files. Remove the file handle which has a tang which just starts into the drilled hole. Insert the tang until the angle stops, now tap a few blows with the hammer until the sharp corners 'bite' into the hole's sidewalls. Too hard will egg shape the broken bolt remainder! Adjust the wrench to clamp on the file flats, apply downward pressure on the file with one hand and back out the broken piece with the other hand/wrench. Also heed the lots of good advice from the other comments. IE ground the hub, heat one item only, lubricate, blow away chips before rotating, slow rpm and many others.
How well I know the frustration and labor put into a job like this! Thanks so much for sharing " a job well done" !!!!!!
Good job.
A trick for you: to start a bolt, a nut, or a screw = first, turn it counter-clockwise, until you feel it fall into matching threads. This helps to prevent cross-threading... Greatly!
You'll like it.
Drill out all the holes. Replace with push in studs from the rear.
As painful as it was to watch you do it, you made a relief hole... why on earth didn't you go back to your welded stud after that!?!?!?! You were right there, man!!! Btw, the washer and nut works infinitely better because it offers you far more surface area for the weld, more penetration, plus it protects the base metal of the hub from being welded.
your videos prove the old saying your never to old to learn i am 70 years old CHEERS AND GOD BLESS YOU KEEP SAFE
A very good video. I've been working on classic cars for decades and often have these problems. In this case, you have great access and once you've drilled enough to get a mini-hacksaw blade through the hole, you can cut a slot and then chase the broken 'tube' of the fixing out with a punch. As mentioned below, a welded washer or nut often works well as it gives you space to add plenty of weld without harming or welding to the flange.
well done finally someone shows how to do it and more importantly the real world aspect not the perfect world version where it all goes right the first time
Between your efforts and a handful of commits. I learned tons.
Wow, I wish I had your patience, not to mention your skill set!!! There were several points in which I would have been discouraged, but you kept on...great job in all regards!!!!!
Well done. I admire the absence of profanity in addition to the patience and skill the job took
I agree a on the job a plus on control of his vocabulary good mechanic in my opinion.
why not drive it in rather than out
Holy moly! I've got to give you credit for your patience! By the third attempt, I would have rolled the whole thing into a pond... "Ooops!" 🤣
LMAO
Hahaha that is where a lot of stuff belongs lol.
Donna M. Schmid, no doubt he has PATIENCE, that virtue would save me a years pay in a day.
no your not supposed to roll it into the pond you set it on fire
at 60$ per hour vary easy to keep trying , ...i would have left that stud alone , after all that tractor is not going to be used too heavily
It's probably been mentioned all ready, But because of the condition of those holes I would have gave some serious thought to using the New wheel as a index guide and center punching, redrilling, and tapping 8 new holes in between the original holes.
Oh god that is a good idea, just bless the old plugged messed up holes and start fresh. For me it is hard sometimes to let go once I get started on a job, I get kind of polarized and obsessed with overcoming the challenge.
Love this video. Watched it many times. So representative of real life situations requiring variety of tried and true techniques and improvising new ones. Also remarkable for your patience and a paucity of standard expletives usually employed to accomplish obstreperous tasks.
Reading the comments, it's interesting to see all the tips for doing this job. Everyone has their own ideas of how it should be done, some of which might speed things up, but the main thing is the job got done. I enjoyed watching the film; it was strangely relaxing. Your calm determination and persistence is amazing to me, as I'd have have chucked the thing into the next field long before starting to drill. I look forward to watching more from your channel. Thanks.
here is another trick to you from an old timer;;; on everything car truck tractor everything, i allways spray paint both stud and hole before in screw m. even if i just painted it and took it out a minute ago. paint both again. it will screw easyer and 3 years later it will come out like yesterday. [ helps stop electrolises and rust and still be there like a coating so threads slide easyer.] a dollar for cheap spray can paint works fantastic.
Or just put some grease or anti-seize on the threads
Paint ? try anti seize
weak loctite (242 or similar ) does the trick too, I tested that on submerged steel fasteners and 10 years later, the exposed portion of the bolt was completeny shot while the thread inside the nut was in as new condition and I easily disassembled the bolt with a simple wrench .
Also, you want to constantly or frequently spray the bit with lubricant. This isn't for actual lubrication but to keep the bit cool. It will parking the life and edge of your bits !!
LOL... there's an idea
Great idea at the end with the studs! Love it.
Those new studs, nuts and rim restoration made it look pretty good! Good job!
I have used a pin punch ground on an angle to make a round chisel to clean out the threads after drilling most of the threads out. The really tricky part is finding center because the thread overhangs on one side and makes it look like your centered when you are not. The best results I have is to start with a small size drill and watch closely before going to deep because you can angle the drill and move the center where it needs to be, but not after you get a hole started very deep.
Wow I've seen so many guys screw up steel drill bits by drilling wide open, nuts, slow down , masonry drill bit?, nuts, get a colbolt bit
No tips from me! I wanna say I appreciate how you filmed this whole thing with all of the tough problems you had until the very end. All the problems and you overcoming em is what gave such value to this job..You showed great persistence. Hope you got paid enough to make it worthwhile.. like you said, to go the other way and get a new axle would’ve been way more costly and your client needs to pay you what your worth because you saved him a pile of money by your hard work! Thanks for the education!
The way I was taught in the 70's is ----
Once you drill a hole clear through the broken stub, it shrinks.
Then you could have return to weld a bolt / washer nut.
Also, because you have access to both sides you can add heat to one side then spray penetrating oil on the other, The heat will pull it through the threads and after it cools do the same to the other side.
When you want to impact it out, heat the metal around the stud. This helps widen the gap in the threads.
So 1. you shrunk the bolt by drilling a hole clean through.
2. You pull penetrating oil through the threads.
3. you widen the thread gap even more by heating the metal around the broken stud.
Nice work.
I've had my share of broken bolts, and have had about 75% success. Working on equipment that has been in a lot of salt makes it a lot harder. Nice work though. You saved that farmer a good bit of money, not to mention a lot of time.
After you weld the bolt on, melt some wax down into the threads to lubricant them, it helps a bunch. I keep some crayons in my toolbox.
I have heard of that, but never tried it. Thanks for the tip.
Give it go next time.
Toilet ring. It’s beeswax. Takes to heat paraffin base wax will just catch on fire
After he heated up the bolts to break the rust he should of let it cooled and poured a load of penetrating oil and let it soak in. Then weld his bolt on and do the same before he tried turning it. Dry rust will just jam up.
U
This is one of your best videos. I really enjoyed it.
Dude....you are one patient man!!! No swear words either. Good Job
I use BP Blaster on everything. It’s really works good on removing O2 sensors.
Dude, I actually took the time to wath the entire video. I learned a lot and just wanted to say thanks alot. Plus, You have a good manner and talk for this stuff.
Thanks man. Glad to hear someone likes the way I talk lol.
I'm telling you it was really informative and that accent is good for videos cause you talk so clear. thanks again
I enjoyed the video also . I admire people that have the patience for an knowledge with stuff like this .
If only you new what mistakes and damage he made.
lol
This is a great video, lots of great information that I have not seen before, this will help me a lot if I ever have another broken off bolt. Thank you for sharing this video with us and for your patience, I know these kinds of things can be stressful and aggravating in many ways. I will go and watch some of your other videos. Thanks again.
You are one tenatious dude and I know that is what it takes sometimes. Good to watch where we put the welding ground so as not to arc through the bearings.Thanks
Use an impact socket. Why? They are stronger. Chrome sockets are general duty. Strong enough? Maybe. But if not, they could crack and maybe even shatter. Good safety tip for you and your viewers.
Also, always use anti-seize on these bolts / studs on assembly to make it far easier to remove next time.
Linz Leard if you buy quality tools like snap on, it’s the same socket without the chrome
looks like a wheel hub. NEVER use anti-seize on any wheel stud. will prevent wheel from staying tight and will vibrate loose from wheel heating up and cooling. Have been a master mechanic for almost 30 years and have repaired many a vehicle that has had a wheel come loose from some idiot who used anti-seize on studs. Not to mention the body damage, and possible injury to somebody when this happens.
If you buy quality tool like Snap On it’s the same tool, the chrome will chip off, that’s why impact sockets aren’t chrome.
Good job. I only have one thing to say though......
DON'T EVER USE A CHROME SOCKET ON AN IMPACT GUN
Mick O'Connor Yes, you can end up with socket fragments in yea eyes 🤪
Yup! Especially the cheap ones will crack. I have a set of sockets from Bahco made for using them with an impact driver. They are ten+ years now, still, they look like new.
I've been a mechanic for 30+ years. I've always used the same set of chrome sockets with impact wrenches. The only sockets I've ever broken are black impact sockets. One of them mushroomed at the end like a chisel. The key is don't be a moron with the impact. If you have to keep the trigger squeezed, hammering on the bolt, you need to use heat or something else to help break the bolt free.
The reason you don't use chromed sockets for an impact gun is that if the chrome flakes off and you're holding the socket you get that flake spun right into your skin. You can use them, just don't hold onto them, don't be such a douche as obviously Steve has decades of experience...
Also you'll notice that the bolt was a 12 point bolt and almost every impact socket is a 6 point unless you specifically look for a 12 point impact set. Most folks would rather have 6 though as there's less chance of rounding off..
@@kalleklp7291 my bahco 17mm socket snapped on me using a breaker bar wtf 😁
i'm glad you pulled out the old timers. they know the best, God bless them
Thanks for taking the time to record your talent.
You are running your drill bits to fast, the bigger the bit the slower the speed. Give them time to cut, watch your chips. -- BTY good job
Drilling steel, you need a low speed, lubrication and plenty pressure. Excessive speed will just make the bit skate and blunt itself.
Would you apply antiseize to the studs before installing them?
You are more gentler than my regularly visited dentist that I go to in getting my root canal!
I 've had great luck with Cobalt drills for drilling out broken and hardened bolts. thanks for the vids.
this makes me glad i am retired they always showed up on Friday afternoon with a job
like this... and got upset because i was always closed on Saturday as i went to church
that day and they just did not under stand your supposed to break stuff on Monday
so there is time to fix it before the weekend :=)
Fun stuff
Thats when ya introduce friday right before we close at the last moment shop labor rates
I love the amount of comments you got. Some good guy's out there with helpful hints and tips. I can't help thinking some of the "experts" watch these videos to find faults and enjoy rubbishing others. I reckon you did well, some of the tips might be worth a try next time and maybe another video? Good on you for putting it out there and getting the job done. Rant over, cheers.
It is so easy to tell the commenters are older, experienced people. I love it. Compared to comments on the internet as a whole, 99% of the people here offered respectful advice based on their experience. Most said thanks. Some gave Classic Works the elbow with an smile. I wish the online world worked like this. I learned a ton from all of it. Thanks.
Love the video and as a few other people said the commentary was great. Really informative and very useful. Although I don't even work on anything like this due disability having the knowledge in the back of your mind is a powerful thing to have.
Some times a bolt like on this hub may be "tightened" clockwise all the way thru and out the back. Saw it on Abom79 once.
Heating a large area with a hole in it will cause the hole to become smaller! If you can't heat an area which goes to the perimeter of the "thing" you are heating, the expansion has to go somewhere, and it goes to the hole, making it smaller. Sometimes, though, even making the bolt tighter in the hole is enough to break the corrosion/adhesions and break it loose.
Excellent video. Camera orientation, edits, explanations of your technique, all first rate. Subscribed!
Nice work, and you're a very patient guy.
I have absolutely no idea why I watched this! I was you tubing golf stuff. LOL
I am retired machinist also, slow speed, tap and cutting oil would have helped, split top colbalt drill bits are good to have also.
Good to see so many skilled professionals offering so much great advice in the comments . That's one of the best things about You Tube .
Hey Great. Thanks for the tips. I always wondered what to do.
Your right about EZ outs, junk. And I agree with others on slower drillin. But I can't never bad mouth a guy who never gives up. Dawn to dust, "just don't never give up, only a puss would".
And I like 7018, but on a grade 8 or harder bolt even 11018. And MOST of all GREAT job guy. Got er done! ☺
Extractors have their place. For fasteners that snapped because of trauma. If your fastener has snapped trying to remove it, don't use an extractor. If it snapped because it was ripped apart, and it moves when drilling it, then an extractor will work.
You are right ease outs not worth a damn If a bolt breaks off no ease out will get it out, heat is your friend on those jobs.
love the videos man,god bless you and your family.
I thought I was going to learn something from this peanut. what a stuff up..
Looking from my side when you had that bolt moving you needed to warm the outer part of the flange a bit and use penetrating oil working back and forth and it would have cleaned up. More than likely rust formed on back side of stud to jamb the stud there. I never had a bolt in steel that would lock up doing it with care and patience. good video though like the burn out view though.
You have a gift. As a machinist, yes; but I mean you can make a boring nightmare project look and sound interesting. Your voice and diction are incredible. I look forward to more of your videos.
I would have drilled them all out and used a oversize shoulder bolt,more simple
i just want to say u did a great job that torch trick first time seen been wrenchen 20 plus years get er done
These are very useful ideas, I may try them out on a broken exhaust manifold bolt.
I think you would have gotten out after the first weld had you used some penetrant oil and worked it in an out, so close though. I've also heated the bolt/stud then quickly cool the bolt stud, it will retract a little from the parent metal which has expanded, both will work to make it come out ,that works really well on pipe thread plugs . you showed a lot of patient in the job.
As said before, lower your drill speed. You are drilling not grinding. These insane speeds are good for drilling wood.
Left handed drills works sometimes.
If the welded on bolt did not go out why not trim it down and srcrew it thru?
Thanks for sharing what you know. If someone doesn't like it, they don't have to watch!
As a machinist and a mechanic I was taught a long long time ago to never start to drill fast and use plenty of oil to lube the bit especially in steel. The harder the steel and the larger the diameter of your bit the slower you need to go. I would also recommend using a good heavy duty drill with a cord and a keyed chuck than a cordless with a hand tightened chuck. It keeps your bits from slipping because you can get the chuck torqued better onto the bit and if you use bits with flats on the shank it helps to get all of the power from the drill to the bit instead of slipping too. I work on mining equipment and drill/mill/bore all different types, thicknesses , & hardness of steels and we never have this much problems with bolts usually. I liked your approach but get some different types of steel and try different lubes, and speeds with the sizes of drill bits to see what works best.
Oh here's a cool tip for hole sizing too. If you need the hole a little over sized use an oil as the cutting lubricant if you want it to drill a little undersized use a thinner coolant like a steady flow of water into the hole the bit is drilling. Also like was mentioned in another comment from another machinist kerosene make for an excellent lubricant for drilling holes too.
Well sir you got my attention to the point of me subscribing. Impressed not by just what you've done .but your commentary too .One of the few I've heard separating the wheat from the chaff in you know what I mean Darren UK
Thanks man means a lot.
You're getting a lot of crap here in these comments but as a diy'er I salute you. I'm learning a lot as well... and crap I'm old as dirt! Thank you for this video.
Ross Charlie p
Cool Stuff, one piece of advise. Use the drill at a slower speed and give the bit a chance to cut. Also use cutting oil while you drill. This will keep the bit cool and not dull as quickly. But I liked the video a lot. I am an auto mechanic and deal with shit like this every week. It SUCKS!!!!
What a nice human being 👍 all the best to you and your family, from one motortrade guy to another ✌️
I really enjoyed watching this video,it gave me food for thought, in that I have/ had a stubborn Allen head bolt on a bearing case, the last one to come out....... You have the patience of a saint and patience is what I got from this, lol... That bolt had been in there for sixteen years, so not bad for a weekend tinkerer.. Great video and thanks for the tips Cheers!
Also, the drill was running too fast....need to be much slower 2/. Then use some penetrating oil,and unscrew it by hand to avoid creating heat and expansion. You say that the centre drill so called "walked". When that happens on a job like you have, I use a small twist drill to drill right through, then a rotary file to bring the hole to centre, then and only then do I use a larger drill bit.
What you need to do heat up on hub around broken bolt red hot with an oxyacetylene torch.This would have probally worked the first time when using the weld on bolt method .-Steve
Try some carbon Tet for cutting fluid
You have some serious patience & not a single cuss word
A very informative video, sir. I want to try some of those tecniques on my own tractors. Thank you.
Left hand drills help
snapon do LH drill bits, they'll even screw the broken stud out.
Drill speed too fast. Magnetic drill press is the bomb. It is refreshing ,the honesty of having problems thanks!
Karl Knapstein sounds like a single speed drill
Wow nice tip on the masonry bit! Really appreciate it. God bless
Great Job!..the before and after contrasts are dramatic!
Good job. Have you tried to use the punch to knock it out after you heat it orange before torching it out? I've tried that a few times it worked good.
I've never tried that, but I could see that working really well. Thanks man.
I'm a retired Machinist. This is painful to watch. Good effort though.
well make your own goddamn channel or shut the fuck up Robert! What a condescending fuck!
I couldn't support you more Joe! Not all of us have the kind've work you can tackle on the bench and press. This is real world fixes. Nice fucking Job, I say! both with the tractor and putting the troll in his place! I'm gonna quote your dads saying too, They are already words I live by!
yes.
i'm not even a machinist but still painful ........ the comment i was also going to make was .... FANTASTIC EFFORT!
@@josephbonney2344 He made an easy job harder than it needed to be.
But we all have to learn from experience both good & bad.
@@josephbonney2344 Jesus, you're an asshole. Piss off.
"Works pretty much 95-98% of the time it is a sure-fire way..."
That has got to be the best line of all time.
Thank you sir. I learned a lot- thanks!
Did you mention to ground the welder directly to the flange to avoid damage to the bearing?