How To Remove A Broken Bolt 6 DIFFERENT WAYS - LS Exhaust Manifold
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 06. 2024
- How to remove a broken bolt, you ask? I've got 6 PROVEN ways of removing broken bolts. These bolts have been in the cylinder head of a 5.3L LM7 V8 engine, holding the exhaust manifold on for 260,000 miles, so they are massively rusty and stuck! I cut the heads off of all the manifold bolts and then provide 6 bolt removal methods for you to try on your own engine. Some work better than others. In general, this video covers how to remove a broken bolt, broken bolt removal, how to remove broken bolt, remove broken bolt, bolt extractor, removing broken bolts, how to drill out broken bolt, how to extract broken bolt, how to get broken bolt out of hole, broken bolt extractor, broken exhaust manifold bolts, removing a broken bolt, and drilling out a broken bolt.
0:00 How to Remove broken bolts
2:04 Broken Bolts Removal Method 1: Locking Pliers
2:49 Broken Bolts Removal Method 2: Double Nut
6:23 Broken Bolts Removal Method 3: Welding a Nut
8:39 Broken Bolts Removal Method 4: Welding a Washer
10:14 Broken Bolts Removal Method 5: Drill and Fight
18:03 Broken Bolts Removal Method 6: Max Boost
5.3L LM7 Exhaust Manifold Bolt Torque Specs
- First Pass 11 Foot Pounds
- Second Pass 18 Foot Pounds
- Tighten the bolts beginning at the center two bolts. Alternate from side to side, working towards the outer most bolts.
Parts you may find useful:
🔗 ICT Billet Exhaust Manifold Bolt Set Part Number 551696 amzn.to/36wHyHW
🔗 GM (Single) Exhaust Manifold Gasket Part Number 12617944 amzn.to/3xzYQzV
🔗 Aftermarket Exhaust Manifold Gasket Set Part Number MG92467 amzn.to/2UEcymH
*As an Amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
🔔 Subscribe to This CZcams Channel: www.rattymusclecar.com/Subscribe
🔔 Follow me on Instagram: @Ratty_Muscle_Car www.rattymusclecar.com/Instagram
🔔 Join me on Facebook: www.rattymusclecar.com/Facebook
CHECK OUT WIRING RESCUE MERCH:
WiringRescue.myspreadshop.com/
TAGS:
#RattyMuscleCar
#Autorepair
#lsswap
#autorepairshop
#carrepair
#carrepairs
#carrepairing
#hotrod
#autorepairmanual
#brokencar
#truck
#trucks
#truckrepair
#restoration
#carrestoration
#car
The video is for your entertainment only. I'm just some guy on the internet working on mediocre cars and trucks. So if you are following any of my video for actual knowledge - do so at your own risk.
Please Note: This video description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links above, I will receive a small commission. This helps support this channel and allows me to continue to make videos like this. Thank you kindly for your support! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thank You for Watching my "Easy" Broken Bolt Removal video!
Subscribe To This CZcams Channel: czcams.com/users/4g63mightymax
Check out my wiring videos!: czcams.com/play/PLsF7T1tRFy2hmiiUUfMZNyV-BUA_yrPIh.html
Left handed drill bits will sometimes work.🤔
I need job macanic sir in experience 12 year in Gulf
This is the best rusty bolt removal tutorial on the internet.
Thank you! I suffered for your education/entertainment. Totally worth it!
What actually works better than the turbo method is welding a 15” steel wheel from a 1985 Monte Carlo (it has to be a 1985 Monte Carlo and 15” wheel). Then , weld or anchor the wheel to one of the yellow, metal safety poles in any Walmart parking lot. Then, you’ll need some help from a buddy, but turn the engine, not the bolt, until the engine falls to the ground. Works virtually 100% of the time 25% of the time. This is not an advertisement for yellow, metal safety poles in Walmart parking lots.
Does it work in a Target parking lot? Or does it have to be Walmart?
I heard abandoned Sears Roebuck stores were the place to get yellow safety poles.
Better yet, weld the wheel to the side of a large propane tank. 😂😂 But be sure to cut a hole in the tank first, so it doesn't build up pressure from the heat! 😂😂
Seeing only 12 likes for this made me sad.
lmfao
If you are out in the field somewhere and don't happen to have a welder or a spare turbocharger lying around, something else that works fairly well is to always carry a small bag of torx bits with you (they are cheap and small). You can drill a hole slightly smaller than the torx bit into the broken bolt and then use a hammer to drive the torx bit into the bolt and then try to turn the bolt out using a vice grip or some other gripping tool. It works better than an extractor, and in situations where you don't have all of the "fancy" equipment you used. Depending on the size of the bolt, you can try this trick several times on the same bolt. Of course, having a torch, welder, or turbocharger always helps.
This is great info and something I have to test out for sure! Thanks for watching!
Sadly did this few hours ago and did not help
The thing with torx bit is that they might strip. Also they might cause the broken bolt to expand and make it even tighter. My approach is to use a square hss bit and drive it in. The corners are hard and sharp enough to cut grips instead of squeezing the bolt against the hole.
that's a good idea 💡
@@WiringRescue Torx bits work good on stripped allen plugs and such.
In most, if not all cases, you start by shocking the broken bolt. Even if it is broken inside; you take smaller, flat at the end punch, and smack it multiple times with hammer. This helps to loosen the bolt, and it will be easier to remove, no matter what method you are going to use. In addition, left-hand drill bits should be added to the list of possible solutions. Also, there are ways to make the point in the middle of the broken bolts (nobody should be just making it with a small punch). I either use the biggest drill bit that will fit the hole (make the good starting point and then continue with smaller diameter bit), or the largest transfer punch diameter that will fit the hole.
All great advice! Thanks for watching and sharing the info!
I really like the addition of the washer to the nut when welding. Heat is the key.
Heat makes the stud expand. Welding on a gripping surface while keeping the heat from propagating down the bolt is the key.
Use the vice grip with moving jaw towards the direction of rotation. This helps the torque to assist with closing the jaws.
Same thing with the Crescent wrench...
@@ccrider77 same thing with the open end.
voice of experience - nothing better
Hey guys, huge tip if you’re doing method number five, where you’re drilling a hole and screwing something out make sure you don’t spray lubricant in it and if you do then spray it out with degreaser or isopropyl alcohol after so you get Maxximum grip and there is no slipping Make sure you do this before you hammer in that removal screw! Thank me later
12:50 - I would have sandwiched 1/8" scrap of plywood betwixt a large steel hammer and the backside of the Easy-out, during insertion.
*_TRUST !!_*
better yet, dont use tapered extractors, use straight fluted extractors
superior tool as don't expand the broken stud @@t00ls742
I'm half way trough a hemi manifold... grasping for straws now. I knew steps 1-5, but #6 made my day. Stress gone. Thanks!!
Happy to assist! Also - if it’s a new hemi, sorry about your rear spark plugs. Not a super fun job to replace. And 16 of them? WTH!?
Excellent. The bane of my efforts to service my own vehicles. Getting rusted bolts off. It was your attitude towards it that made me realize it's doesn't have to be painful. But can be looked at as fun and challenging. Thanks.
That’s awesome feedback! Thank you for taking the time to write it! And thank you for watching the video!
yeah I totally agree with that statement attitude is everything!!! cuz if you going to turn tools for a living or just as a shade tree mechanic this kind of stuff is going to come up sooner or later and the best way to deal with it is with a good attitude!!
Yup, was getting depressed about trying pulling out two rusty broken front pipe bolts... feel better now seeing his attitude.
The sound effects my dying! Well done zzzzzzzzzz squeek
Thanks Dennis. I’m glad people found it as hysterical as I did!
My God... the washer method worked! I was trying for hours before this with a seized bolt, broke 3 nuts off prior to seeing this method. I cannot even tell you how much you've helped.
Thanks!!!!!
That’s fantastic! I’m glad the washer worked because drilling out stuff is the worst. Thanks for watching!
These are some pretty cool methods. I use #6 on the reg. AND if you don’t use these sound fx in every video from here on out, I will be very sad. 😁. Awesome video!
Thanks! It could be my finest editing to date! And yes, method #6 was a game changer when I discovered it. Thanks for watching!
Wheeeeee ya ya ya ya yaaa
Thanks for the methods.
I just removed the ditch side manifold from a 2003 Grand Marquis. While in the car.
I cut the nuts off so I could remove the manifold. Now all the studs were exposed.
I tried the vise grip method, it worked on one.
I tried the double jammed nuts and couldn’t get any action, so I pulled out my stick welder.
I welded oversized nuts on the exposed studs, and got 6 more out.
The last 3 broke the weld out of the welded nuts, so I used the washer and nut method to get the last 3 out.
Note, I am replacing the fender so I had the luxury of space.
Thank you for the great video.
That’s awesome - I’m glad you were successful! Thanks for sharing the win!
owww
Bought a flux core MIG welder on Amazon for $74 after tax and shipping. It even came with a welding mask and a roll or wire. Extracted a broken stud by welding a nut on it. Worked great.
Very informative. It shows how difficult it is when you break off the stud flush. Thanks for sharing your skills. Good tips 👍
Thank you for watching! I appreciate you taking to time to do so! :)
Not sure what's more entertaining. You welding a turbo to an exhaust manifold or the instant I saw the turbo I went to your videos looking for DSMs. You didn't disappoint. Hahah. Thanks for the laugh today.
lol. You caught me. I’m a life long dsm guy. ❤ I’ve built myself two 4g63 mightymaxs, a fwd turbo laser, a Galant’s vr4, and a couple 1G awd’s. I’m currently restoring a 91 talon awd from its previous life as a race car. This one I’m keeping forever. No more selling my Dsm’s and watching the next owner ruin my work! 😂
This would be a better experiment if you use actual broken bolts.
And I always use reverse drill bits for bolt extraction. A lot of time the heat from the drilling will help free it up, and it just comes out while I'm drilling.
This is now my favorite channel on CZcams.....I got nothin' , hahahaha. Solved my electrical issues and now a turbo is the best broken bolt removal tool , im hooked💪
Dude really welded the turbo lol 😂 Good job! Loved it! Both educational and entertaining
Thanks for the GREAT Information! Well done.
If I was just startin' out wrenching, I never would have seen any of these methods.
If I grew up on a farm and had a fix-it-all Dad or older brother who cared enough about me to help me learn how to fix broken equipment, maybe they might have know how to use these good ideas that you took hours to video and edit.
Thank you!
I’m glad that you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching!
Awesome stuff man! And thank you! Never heard of the washer method. I just put a fire to it till the gaskets start smoking
OMG this is priceless, I laughed my ass of when I heared your cutting disc sound effect🤣🤣🤣
I’m glad other people appreciate my humor! Thanks for watching!
Great video! Just a suggestion for anyone using an easy-out or tap. Try to use some form of a tap handle to help keep the pressure centered, it is too easy to snap a tap, etc using a regular wrench. Second point, I am a retired machinist, I hated using easy outs, like you said, if they work 50% of the time for you, that is a far greater success rate than they worked for me. Plus, one of the most common repairs I saw were customers bringing in a part that had a broken bolt with an easy out broken in it.. made drilling it out near impossible.
Thank you! I completely agree with every single thing you’ve said! And thank you for watching the video!
Been there. Solution is Harbor Freight diamond bits that fit Dremel. Takes awhile but works.
I got to learn all about this recently. The dremel (the first tool I ever owned, from 31 years ago) got through the bolt & I was able to eventually remove it.
thx man that is exactly what i have. now I know what to do
This happened to me with a bolt in the diff cover of my 8.5 gm, I tried drilling it out but ended up grinding it flush and laying a huge bead of silicone in that area and crossed my fingers lol, never did leak
Great video, We are never too old to learn new tricks.
Agreed! I’ve learned a few things in these comments as well! Thanks for watching!
The washer welded to the stud then to the nut worked amazing. 2 studs broken flush removed both in 5 min
That’s awesome! Thanks for watching the video!
Will it still work if the stud broke off a little below flush? I have one that snapped a littpe bellow the surface
@@benjamingifaldi7441 - absolutely! I’ve done it many times with the stud broken off below the surface. Just crank up the heat on the welder and weld to a washer first.
I just found your video and the welding method worked amazing! I had three studs broken in the head of my Dodge Cummins and it worked flawlessly on all three. Thanks for the video!
Will try with a washer, nut just snapped of each time. Does this still work with a cheap Flux core (gasless).
This guy is hero! Thank you!
Nice comparison. Nice video. Thank you.
With the extractor method it always works best to drill all the way through the broken bolt it better releases tension but caution has to be used to not break the drill bit.
the sound effects are top quality 😂
Thank you! It’s some of my best work!
Excellent methods I will try thanks for your time and this video very encouraging and now have hope to work on mine. Thanks again God bless
It's always nice when things work, Thanks
And here I was thinking I'm the only one that ever welded a turbo charger to broken off bolt to remove it. So refreshing to know that I am not alone!🙂. Great video.
Kayla, The reason I know you’re awesome is because you appreciate the fine art of welding strange objects to broken engine parts. Thank you for watching, commenting, and for being awesome.
-Jeremy
@@WiringRescue I absolutely recognize and appreciate your genius in problem solving using a completely serviceable/no longer serviceable turbo charger as a broken bolt extractor! I keep all of my old car parts that I replace (and absolutely everything else, I throw nothing away) and repurpose them into usable second life tools and equipment..sometimes abstract art. Welding that turbo charger onto a broken bolt was the most imaginative (and hysterically funny) thing I have seen in an age. Sheer genius!! That bolt stood no chance in the face of the tremendous amount of torque that piece of improvised tooling applied to it. I immediately knew you were of my tribe and that you knew the song of my people!😁
Great video! Wanted to add that when welding just the nut to the stud, counter sinking the nut to the flats will help get deeper penetration. Love the washer/nut combo method! And when all else fails and we have to resort to the dreaded drill it out method, using left hand twist drills will often bring the stud right out. First I drill a pilot hole (can use a right hand bit) and then go to a bigger left hand twist drill bit. The pilot hole “relieves” the pressure and gives an edge for the left hand bit to bite or catch on and then it spins it out. Give it a go, it has greatly reduced the cussing in my shop! I looked around and couldn’t find any old turbo chargers so I don’t think that I can ever use that method!😉🤣
that's pretty sweet left hand drills they probably do work a lot better than easy outs the easy house don't really have a cutting edge or a biting edge on them
@@bryanelliott1928 I hate to encourage shopping Amazon, but the ones I got from them work great.
Most mechanics don't know about machinists "center drill" bits but they drill and countersink in one pass and the small sized fit hand drills.
Thanks for the samples on what techniques may work on removing a broken bolt. Mine the 2 nuts did the trick! 🙌🏻
And thank you for watching! I appreciate it!
Thank you for this video. I did the welding the washer and nut method. It worked the first time. Again thank you so much.
That’s awesome! I’m glad it worked for you!!
I've found that a good Honeywell or Garret turbo works better for bolt removal than some Wuhan War Whistle from ebay.
The only one I won't even attempt anymore is the EZ-out. Those things break off so often, and they're harder than any drill bit ever. I'm fortunate that almost all of my broken-bolt experiences have been on either industrial machinery or motorcycles, which (sometimes...) makes it easier to access than on a car.
Lol. Thank you for the pro-tips and watching the video!
When I was a mechanic, I was assembling an engine top end in a boat that was open for 3 years, in Los Angeles, harbour.
It was all corroded, so I was down in the bilge using a tap in all the head bolt holes, I was about done, when I heard a boats engine coming into the marina to fast, so I stopped and held on, but the wave was to big and violently through the boat around and through me over the engine, as I flew over the engine my leg hit and broke off the tap below the surface !!
It took me 12 hours plus a. (Milton tap extractor). To get the piece out without hurting the threads !!
Lots of using a flat punch and WD-40 . 😂 Great Video
Lol. That’s an awesome story! I’m glad it was you digging the broken tap out and not me! Sounds like a really stressful day! Thanks for watching the video! I really appreciate it!
Just snapped two seized bolts on the rear hub on a E39 bmw. I don't have a welder and I've been at it for hours. Trying to get the hub off and replace.. I Gave up for now. Round 1 goes to the bolt 😓
Thank you sir for posting this video I removed 2 bolts with this method.
You are awesome
Excellent! Thanks for watching and congrats on your success!
Super thorough video of the process. Thanks so much.
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Great stuff thx. There are several types of removal tools that hammer into holes drilled in studs, I like the square fluted ones and the good old manual impact wrench in a slot too.
You're correct square impact would work if they aren't badly siezed.
love your sound effects. made my day stuck on these rusted brake wheel bolts im stuck with.
those reverse screwbits aren't working for me either. appreciate the weld tips. gonna try those out for sure.
Thanks! I’m glad you liked the video. I actually bought some reverse drill bits because everyone says they are great. I haven’t tried them yet though.
Excellent ! Great ideas for a tricky job. Thanks a lot.
I’m glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching!
Great video thank you. Your right about the easy outs just could not get them to work.
When using the "grip it and rip it method" with vise grips or any other clamping device, try grinding a flat on the bolt. Helps the pliers grip better and keeps them from slipping.
Good info! Thank you for watching and sharing the pro tip!
Good tip
I was a welder for 50+ years. I have removed hundreds of broken bolts and taps. Heat the bolt red hot,rub bee's wax on it ,let cool. Grab with vise grips if you can,gently turn , usually works first time. If not,repeat. If broken flush,heat,apply bee's wax,let cool,weld on a nut or even CRS rod. As the bolt cools the wax is sucked into the threads, capillary action.
excellent!!!!!
chinese or american VGs?
I had never heard of method 6 before, but now that so many new cars are coming standard with turbochargers, it is sure to become a popular solution.
disposables abound
Bro because of the authentic sound effects I like and subscribe, good stuff bro
This is an Incredible video brother thank you so much for sharing this! God bless you brother
Very informative video. I love the superb life like sound effects too!!
Edit: Your second method could be improved with a piece of sand paper or Teflon between the nuts. Also there is a method where you drill a small hole in the middle, then tap in a square safety bit or star driver bit and turn it out with a driver.
Thanks! A bunch of people have mentioned the torx bit option to me. I’ve gotta try that!
@@WiringRescue just don’t forget, the safety or torque bit has to be impact rated or it will snap off the first quarter inch of the bit 99% of the time.
@@Dawsons89 That literally just happened to me, still battling it haha
I have removed hundreds of broken bolts ab
With the easy out:
1) don’t drill crooked 😅
2) don’t go TOO big or you end up swelling the bolt, making it tighter.
3) Try heat
4) a T handle work better than an adjustable wrench.
I agree on all of that. It’s amazing how many comments are regarding my adjustable wrench usage! Lol. Thanks for watching!
Great Narrative Skill And Patience Much Respect 👍🇬🇧
Good job , and thank you for taking the time ✌
Typically none of them are ever rusted on or ceased. The heads break off the ends because the manifold warps.
This is a handy demonstration of various ways to get em out. All helpful. But what really helps is leaving the head of the bolt on.
😂. Great video. Love the sense of humor
Thanks! I’m glad people appreciate the dumb things I do in my garage. Lol
Most entertaining and informative video I've seen for snapped bolt removal, made me laugh. I'm subscribing for sure 💖
Thank you! I really appreciate that!
I read an article in Popular Mechanics in 1962 that suggested putting a washer between the double nuts so the outside nut can't move.
That’s clever! I’ll try that next time! Thanks for sharing it!
Great video. Hehe on the turbo charger, but it gave leverage to turn the bolt out.
If a bolt is not seized in by rust or what ever, and things are clean around the bolt threads, then when the bolt head breaks off or gets cut off, the bolt should be loose in the treads, because it’s not holding any thing.
I had a push mower recently that the bolt broke off holding the cutting blade on the crank shaft of the engine. The bolt was broke a few thousands down in the crankshaft. I figured, it should be loose. I took a very small flat screwdriver and hammer and tapped the bolt. Sure enough it moved. Was not trying to turn it, just to see if it was loose. I glued another butt end of another bolt to the broken one. Wait till the glue set. And turned the broken one out. Bolt size was around 5/16.
Thank for the video. I never had much success with easy outs. Mostly broke off.
Glad you liked the video! It sure does feel like you’re the king of the world when a broken bolt comes out! I’ve never tried glue/epoxy, but now I guess I have to! Thanks for watching!
Besides using the Mini-Ductor Venom HP , the unit with the highest power , Matco has the RBRT Extractor Set , which has been getting great reviews . Whatever method works best without damaging the head or threads .
Did you mean MAC tools? I love their RBRT stuff. I use them on all torx and hex bolts to keep from ever stripping them out in the first place
This video confirmed a couple theories of mine, thank you, I can now hopefully remove my stud from my block. Going to try the weld technique.
Good luck! I’m cheering for you!
Nice video...welding the washer then the nut is a brilliant idea! Don't forget to add the lubricant so you don't strip out the aluminum threads from the head.
Thanks! I also love the washer idea!
Sometimes it's useful to make a cup of tea first and pour the boiling water over the alloy especially if there are, rubber seals involved eg. brake bleeds screws. The alloy expands more than the steel bolt making it easier to remove. This prevents damaged to the seals you would've got using a blow torch etc.
The double nut method works if you just turn the bottom nut. Dont turn them both. You actually risk unlocking the nuts together. But if you can get a nut on the stud and have a welder on hand just weld the nut after you screw it on. Plus the weld heat will help
Brilliant idea to weld to the washer to the stud first.
I never had luck with ease out either. Plus if they break off its hell then on. Nearly impossible to drill that hardened tap. If an ease out fails. You can use taps to cut the stud out by increasing the size tap.
Love the sound narration and the turbo charger method.
Good info! Thanks for sharing and watching! On the double nut method - you are totally right. I was having trouble with the outer nut loosening when turning the inner nut, which is why I was using two wrenches. Normally that isn’t necessary though. For whatever reason my nuts (insert joke here) were aligned in the most perfectly wrong way! Lol.
Also - I like the tap idea you wrote. I may have to try that out! Thanks again!
Thanks! Beyond helpful, I'd like to give more and might in the future.
You’re welcome! And I would encourage you to share any specialized knowledge you may have in a kind way. It makes you feel good.
I really learned a lot from this video can’t thank you enough sir you’re the best ever
Thanks again. I appreciate you watching. Maybe if you’re bored, you’d like my wiring videos too?
I'm 70 I've done 4 trucks for guys. Take your time, spray penetrating fluid let it soak. Get a bunch of hex nuts and weld away. I personally would never drill them.
Agreed! Drilling is always a terrible option. Thanks for watching!
The part you should explain is that the heat from the torch and welding does help.. Also when the bolt does start to turn. Working it back and forth helps as well with a penetrating spray/ lubricant. Always run a tap down the threads.. And another way is your wash/ nut but use a short bolt and weld head to washer. This will give you something to put 2 nuts onto . 🔩
All great advice! Thank you for sharing it here, and watching!
very useful video. Great tips. thanks for video.
Thanks for watching! I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for this. This is crazy doing these things man, one needs to have a small garage!
Living in Canada, the heads of exhaust manifold bolts are always corroded so I gave up trying to get a socket on them. I just use the cutting torch to cut the heads off all the bolts and get the manifold out of the way, then weld washers and nuts on and work on getting them out. My record is 6 tries at welding a washer and nut on an LS exhaust bolt before it broke free and came out. My all time record is 9 times to get the exhaust bolt out of a Honda Accord, turns out the Honda already had a heli-coil in that bolt hole and caused all the problems
Massachusetts is soooo very similar. I swear the amount of salt sprayed on the roads in winter is troubling. It turns every car to dust within about 5 years. I highly respect your manifold removal methods! Thanks for watching the video!
Another method that I think would work great is to leave the seized stud in a room with my ex wife for 5 min, the stud will unscrew itself and leave the shop entirely.😜
Lol. I’ll contact your ex wife for the next how-to video!
Very cool tricks! Great video.
The double nut works amazing. I think u did it wrong, u have to tighten it against one another as much as u can, then remove the stud using the inside nut
When you have a hammer, everything looks like a nail. When you have a welder, EVERYTHING looks like it needs a weld.
Agreed 100%. That’s why I have to weld ALL the things. Thank you for watching!
I think youve pretty much covered the best methods
Thanks! That’s what I was hoping to do!
One that worked for me on a protruding bolt is to file the sides down into more of a square shape and then smash a socket over with a hammer, basically the same method as people do to get locknuts off wheels.
That is something I have not tried but absolute will! Thanks for sharing it!
With the easy out, you should be using the proper size left hand drill bit. Also instead of tapping the extractor in, screw it in, it will have a lot less chance of breaking, especially if you use a t-handle to turn it
This, left handed drill bit, it will sometimes remove the bolt.
Also using penetrating lubricant, with alternate cold and heat (where possible - obviously not near something like a gas tank).
Best video I have seen yet. 10/10 quality and skill. need to extract 4 x Briggs Vert 8 HP broken off bolts when my Kinchrome heap of Sh.t Torque wrench failed big time.
I welded a bike frame to my bolt and although it was hard to spin and make clearance it ended up working great
Phew! I’m glad this knowledge is going to good use. I’m thinking about welding a passenger side impala door to my next broken bolt. ;) Thanks for watching!
@@WiringRescue make sure it's a 1975 Impala passenger side door. Otherwise it might not work
@@bottomofthemap696 - Thank you! I always heard something about the 1975’s being the best bolt extraction doors. Plus, they become balanced for the reverse rotation when the regulator is warmed up to 88 degrees F. So that makes things way easier.
Even a cheap flux core welder from harbor freight will do the trick. Recently gave my first shot of this on a dodge. The broken bolt was 3/16 below the surface. After 4 attempts i turned the heat up and success. The joy is amazing.
Sure is! Getting broken bolts out and starting engines for the first time are basically the best feelings ever!
What did you have your wire feed on and the heat setting
@@williammason7092 heat setting switch only has a minimum and maximum selection. I used the maximum. My wire speed was 1 out of 10. After a couple squeezes on the trigger the nut was glowing red.
@@jimjones1678 sounds like you have the same one mig 170
me..1/4 bolt and 2 in. deep using a stick welding..
I literally just went into my garage and welded nuts to each of my broken studs that were snapped off a good 1/8" inside the head and they both came right out. Took me 8 minutes. I legit thought i would have to take the head to a machine shop because earlier i tried to drill the sruds and the bit broke off when i got almost all the way through. Awesome video man. It saved me some $$$$
Hellz yes! I’m glad to hear you won the battle! Thank you for watching!
Thank you awesome video
In a pinch, if you don’t have an extractor on hand. You can match a drill bit to a torx bit and slam the torx in there and slowly ratchet it off. You always want to go with the biggest extractor or torx that you can in the bolt without drilling it crooked. The bigger the extractor, the less likely you are to snap it off. My experience atleast.
A few people have suggested this to me! I think I may try it in a future video and see how it works!
It’s an aluminum head. In the case of broken flush or below flush, place a nut over the hole and the mig nozzle directly on the nut. One handed, squirt the gun until the nut is Cherry red. It will be welded to the stud and it won’t stick to the head. No ez out and washer required. Easy peasy.
Agreed! Thanks for watching !
The video effects look funky
Great video. Makes me more confident to do my manifold
Excellent! I’m glad you liked the video!
The best method I have found is to use cans of air duster upside down to freeze the bolts in a warm block after soaking in penetrating oil. I have never snapped a bolt or had to weld or drill a stud after I learned this trick
That’s an awesome method that I should definitely try. Thanks for sharing it! With these LS engines in Massachusetts, the manifold bolts tend to break themselves off. So I’m forced to do drilling or welding to get them out.
Nice. I’ll try this!
Lol the fucking sound effects had me dying
Ya know - I’ve been waiting months for someone to appreciate that! I thought it was hysterical too, but it seemed to have been lost on everyone. So thank YOU for watching and bringing it up. It made my morning!
That is so cool that you would do this for a demonstration. Thanks!
I’m glad you like it, you might also like some of my wiring videos. They require quite a bit of effort as well! Thanks for watching!
Great vid Thank You
#4:you got it hot enough to get the metal to expand and loosen the bolt...
Just a thought but couldn't you have lined up your double nuts and used a deep socket?
Sometimes that works. Other times it just spins both nuts right off the stud. So it sort of depends on how the nuts are tightened against each other.
First time I've ever watched someone goof off and weld a turbo to a broken exhaust manifold bolt. Cheers bud, that's hilarious 🍻🍻
I didn’t have anything more ridiculous within arms reach, so I really had no choice but to choose the turbo. If there was a toilet seat nearby, you better believe it would have been welded to that bolt. Thanks for watching!
awesome, i love the welded nut.always works for me. The turbocharge method my second favorite lol! I never use easy outs, they flat out suck.
Totally agreed on all!
Drilling and EasyOut (hah) is always tough. After bolt removal it's a good idea to get a new bolt and see if it will hold torque or strip out before installing the manifold.
Solid advice! Thanks for watching!
Hey guys when using drill and ez out/extractor, use left hand drill bits at a slow speed... Alot of times the drill bit will grab and turn the screw out if its not rusted and seized badly... Also dont tap the extractor in, that will cause it to bind and break off... If the hole is drilled deep enough, simply turning the extractor will cause it to grab the screw
excellent advice
Don't tap it in??? These things don't catch very easy and when the do they don't stay that way long for the most part. I've got a broken glowplug on the side of my engine and if I didn't tap in it would fall out.
@@eedom69 tap it in if you want. Theyre not intended to be tapped in. Theyre very hard and will break.
@@michaelmorgan2880 The icon ones I just got at harbor freight show a picture of a man tapping it in with a hammer in the instructions.
Wonderful information. You made a very informative session.
I’m glad that you found the video helpful! If you liked this, you may like some of my other videos too! Thanks for watching!
Awesome video man. Small tip, to avoid it slipping, adjusting end goes in direction of travel, min 7:40
I'm a pro at snapping the easy-out inside the frozen fastener. Last time I did it I was so furious I just went and bought another distributor at the junkyard and threw the messed up one in the trash for revenge.
I was once working on the bosses rare SD-455 pontiac. I snapped an exhaust manifold bolt, then drilled it and snapped the drill bit in the hole. Got the drill bit out and snapped the easy-out in the hole. After many, many, many hours, it was fixed.
Use a left handed drill bit. Some time they come out just by drilling
If I owned any of those, I absolutely would have tried!
Dude, you crack me up! Thanks for the help.
Just doing my part to make the internet a better place! Thanks for watching!