PMM Beretta 92 Compensator Review! Parker Mountain Machine JTTC
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
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Let's take a look at a great comp with my least favorite attachment method.
#pmm
#parkermountainmachine
#beretta92
Been wanting to see this review long live the beretta 92!
I am really glad how informstive but also understanding you are, along with the reality of pros and cons with this compensator. As someone who is planning om buying a firearm for myself in the future. Love to know where I put my money in, and also gain abit of knowledge what to expect as a actual firearm attachment piece/upgrade. Really be hopping to see more videos of you review upgrade pieces or some firearms aswell to do the samw thing like this one. Will be watching more of it so I can know kore what to buy for my first firearm.
Penguin bringing the chill tunes. Last time it was Diablo. This time it’s Max Payne.
Yes. I’m a nerd.
Red loctite tip: I have found the same issues as you with red loctite, both on tiny screws and barrel threads, but I may have a solution. If you have a wood burner or soldering iron you can position it to set in the muzzle, hot tip touching the bore and let it set like that for about 20 minutes until the heat conducts through the barrel to the threads and the comp. Eventually, the comp will become hot to the touch (depending on the wattage of your heat source) and the comp will be... oh... 15% easier to remove than at room temp. I know it's not enough heat to completely unbond high-temp threadlocker, but this method has eased the butt-clenching amounts of torque I've had to use on a couple of occasions. Hope this helps. Look forward to all your vids✌
I too have used the same method and found it to be extremely useful. Thank you for sharing it with everyone.
Well... It looks cool. That's what really matters.
Glad the comp I got for my P320 uses set screws and blue Loctite.
I'm glad you went that route too! I done fucked up with this one.
The OEM comp from Berreta is very nice and runs great on my M9A4. It threads on and uses an extended guide rod to hold it in place.
But it's soooo ugly
I like the Jarvis one. Looks similar to the PMM, ie. Sexy
What’s the best port cut then??? I’ve seen
Black beard customs.
I also wanted to get Landon tactical upgraded springs….&
How do you clean it??
I have a M9a3 black with the rose wood grips. Thank you for the great review.
Thanks for the review! Can you tell me the exact width and hieght of the comp if you have the time?
With my PMM P365 comp I just used blue loctite instead of the red that they Supplied
Looks so dam.nice brooo beautiful pistola mannn
What holster do you run for your setup
Do I need to swap out my guide rod to have this installed?
A different company wants me to buy an extended guide rod just to have this function and I'd rather not, particularly because I spent $20 on a SS guide rod.
Please respond ASAP
beretta makes one that comes with the guide rod....but you need a threaded barrel good luck finding one
I wonder if rocksett would work. It's ultra-high temp. Its water based, so a bit of boiling water will usually loosen it up. It's what I use on all of my suppressor mounts because crush washers can fuck up the alignment.
I wondered about that too, but I don't know enough about Rocksett to comment with any degree of accuracy. Someone needs to try it! I'd still prefer blue Loctite and a set screw, but an option to boil the part would still be far less inconvenient than red Loctite.
@@thegunpenguin I'm still not sure, but I want you to know I was thinking about you while baking the rocksett on my new upper today lol. Finally stepped into the 300blk world. Is it gimmicky? Yes. Is it the only suppressed upper I feel comfortable shooting without earpro? Also yes.
I jb weld charging handles on my aks.. ive sold them.. part of me wonders if they've tried to remove them. 😁
😂🤣
Did it need a lighter recoil spring?
I like the way beretta did there no Locktight it threads on and stays put with a longer guide rod
Excellent review , any updates ?
Purple loctite will work with this set-up as well. I have it on my Beretta and put about 4k rounds through it without any issues/loosening.
Will that compensator work on a 92x?
I just pick me up a Beretta 92 x and I am going to put a compensator on it with a red. What's the Hoster are you using or what do you recommend
The 92X is great! I'm using a holster from Midwest Tactical Solutions in the video. I like it a lot! That style of holster is a little weird with the 92, because of the shape of the gun. But it works well!
I can't seem to find the comment, but I was told the holster used was from Midwest Tactical Solutions
So, going back to your Glock 45 review, I remember you saying it was so easy to shoot you felt like you were cheating. With that in mind, which is flatter, the comped 92A1 or the G45?
Without a doubt, the Beretta. The operating mechanism will naturally produce more of a rearward recoil impulse than the tilting barrel of the Glock. The Glock has very low recoil, but that's relative to other tilting-barrel guns.
@@thegunpenguin
I assumed it would, just based off of the weight difference and falling block design but wanted your two cents. Good stuff Penguin!
I run lots of pmm comps I just put a dab of blue loctite as I do occasionally take my comps off. I have never had one back off. Just run a little bit of blue instead or none at all.
Fucking FANTASTIC video my friend!!! My EDC has been Beretta 92 compact L for many years now. My Berettas are not stock though. I have Wilson Combat grips, springs, and mag guides on all of them. The moment Langdon Tactical RDO slides were available I purchased 3 of them and have been more accurate ever since. Getting older makes sight pictures more fuzzy. My Trijicon RMR & SRO are both fantastic for my older eyes. I recently purchased the Holosun 507k but cannot find a mounting solution for my Berettas. Any ideas? I am now looking at the comp options just for fun. Thank you for sharing your thoughts and knowledge. Your comp looks pretty good.
Dlah
How many shims did you have to use? I had to use a shit ton
Could you post a link to That holster
Couldnt you skip the loctite and just get the wilson combat extended guide rod?
Loved the intro! Play more music in the rest of the video!
Thanks for the kind words!
Can't you use Blue loctite instead of Red with this compensator? My cousin has used Blue even though Red is recommended and hasn't had issues.
haven't tried this but i am going to be using orange locktite and should work.
couldnt you just use vibratite ? i mounted a disruptive defense comp on my canik and only uses the blue loctite and set screws provided and never comes loose under fire
Just use Loctite 242 (Blue)
Also, mine didnt come with washers, what's the part number for that kit?
Couldn't you just drill and tap a through hole to install a set screw? if you have a stainless barrel and use a softer set screw i dont see it backing off. Furthermore, doesn't the guide rail act as an anti-rotation pin?
Hey have you ever tried hotlock glue?
Its a glue you heat in the oven once applied. Its ceramic and when dry my 12 gauge choke mounted brakes dont move.
If you ever need to remove it. All you donis work water into the threads and itll dissolve enough to remove it.
Just a suggestion.
Did a bit of research here.
The break away torque of loctite is slightly higher. But the different is maybe 50 lbs or so.
The heat stability on red loctite is 500 degrees F and the heat stability of hotlock is 2k F.
Id think the hot lock would likely be a better option. It even states on the intended use on the website that it can be used to fix muzzle brakes to barrels
“Blue, easy to make new. Red, full strength ahead!” ...I think blue loctite will work just fine
I can't get the idea of a 10mm 92a out of my head because I just watched your glock 40 video before this and I'm off to the internet now
I AM BACK FROM BERETTAS WEBSITE AND THOSE FOOLS ONLY MAKE A 96 A1 IN .40 FUUUUUUUUUUUUU
I just want to have crippling wrist pain on my absolute favorite platform. Is that too much to ask??
I wish the market for 10mm was a bit larger. Beretta is already a bit lazy about producing new models to keep up with current trends. They've largely ignored calibers other than 9mm in the last 5 years or so.
@@thegunpenguin True. Their r&d guys have more money than they have time to come up with new ideas. Seems like they are going to make a good faith effort at polymer frames with the APX line and its coming iterations, so I doubt we see anymore 92 updates, potentially forever. I'd better start writing emails and letters then lol
I don't think the 92 would do so well in 10mm. Most 9mm designs that are adapted to even just .40 S&W don't handle that too well (Glocks had some explodey problems in the beginning for example). Especially with 10mm you really want a gun that is designed from the ground up for it. Of course they could re-engineer the 92 to make it work, but beefing up the necessary parts would probably affect the slim contours of the 92, and not for the better.
So my question is: Do you absolutely HAVE to use red locktite? Can you use blue instead without it making a huge difference in performance?
They say you must. I'm not so sure. But, I'd still rather have a set screw.
I was told by someone who has a few of these on his berettas etc. that he just doesn't put loctite and it works/secures perfectly fine. That or maybe blue loctite. I don't like the fact that you supposedly can't remove it, but at the same time it sounds like it's not necessary for performance. Granted take this with a grain of salt as I did, have not tried it myself.
@@rt1326 I don’t use ANY locktite on my pmm comp for my Glock 43x. The shims and recoil spring is more than enough for it to not come loose. 🤷🏻♂️
I use plumbers tape and it works great with the shims
What was the intro music if you don’t mind I asking ? Very nice addition to the video and keep up the great content !
Max Payne
Are there any holsters that fit this or other comps?
Most kydex holster manufacturers can accommodate you. I've got quite a few.
4:36 😂😂😂 yup! Love it!
If you need to get something apart that is loctited and you don't want to get it hot. Put it in a deep freezer for a few hours. Take it out put it in a vise, and it should come apart much easier.
Great tip!
600-700 degree Red Loctite 272 is not the same as the Red Loctite 271 that PMM includes.
My friend installed a PMM comp on his Shadow Systems Glock 19 thing and didn’t realize he clocked it crooked until a few days later.
It would not move with tools so he certainly applied it properly so I took and old belt and lined my vise with it and clamped the comp lightly then heated it directly with a heat gun until it was just too hot to touch and spun the barrel and slide by hand and it came right off.
Most people don’t realize there are two common type of Red Loctite.
The 600 degree stuff is 272 and I personally use it on gas block set screws but the 271 is the “normal” Red Loctite and breaks at maybe 300 degrees or so, regardless of the “450 degree” recommendation on the package.
Their 92 comp looks slick as hell though 👍🏻
271 breaks at 500 degrees, according to the manufacturer. That’s in line with my personal experience. The last time I had to remove a compensator that was put on with 271, it was extremely difficult. I don’t say that to discount your experience, but to add an alternative perspective.
@@thegunpenguin Yeah man of course, more data points are always good.
I have used dry ice to shrink down parts a thousandth or 2 on heavy equipment to fit parts with extremely close tolerances but never thought to use cold as a method to break things free. The more tools of knowledge in your mental arsenal, the better. Thanks for sharing...
I get the issues you have with it but I love mine. I have one of the PMM comps on my P365 and I never intend to take it off, there’s just no reason for me to need to since I can clean it just fine without taking it off. That said I wouldn’t put one on my beretta. I’d rather get the barrel ported.
I know this video is 2 yrs old,but in my experience i kinda prefer this method over set screws. I have stripped set screws before on comps because they r so damn tiny & usually sh_tty allen wrench type screws. You don't have to use loctite with this unless u want too. It won't come loose because with the shims supplied you can torque the crap out of it. I did put red loctite on my pmm g19x comp,but did not on my m4a1....in case i decide i want to shoot it suppressed.
92 gang for life❤
Have you considered using blue ? I’ve been following pmm for a while going to have them mill my p226 slide. It is weird they don’t have a set screw
I have, but I suspect it wouldn't work. Usually, we are adding blue Loctite a set screw. Yeah, the set screw will get hot, and you'll have to check it monthly, and apply more thread locker periodically. But that set screw won't be subjected to the same level of heat as the comp threads. In this case, I don't think blue locker would work well, or for long enough. It might be subjected to enough heat to release in the first use.
Is there a reason you can't use blue loctite to secure it on?
That's what I was thinking after chatting with family members with comps. They have used with blue without issues.
why not use blue locktight?
Why not use Loctite 246 (medium strength, high heat) or Rocksett instead of red Loctite? Seems like a better fit.
I agree.
It came with rockset on my Glock setup but not my FN setup - the rockset is … well it ain’t coming off with out a blowtorch
@@sidanx7887soak it in hot water over night or boiling water for an hour or two.
This is a very informative review! I wish it had worked out better for you, it seems like it is one step away from being a fantastic option.
Thanks! That's a great assessment. The PMM is so close, but not quite. It's also great proof that sometimes an older technology had it right.
What was the $ difference between this comp & your buddy's barrel porting?
Obviously, porting is the way to go but I am still curious...
The price was very similar, though I think the porting was slightly cheaper, overall.
Porting was about $80
porting will lead to loss of velocity, materiao being shaved off the bullet and shot out through the ports, and in some cases a loss of accuracy.
My recommendation is to get a slightly shorter slide and turn your gun into a centurion. Then put the comp on and you can have a package that is shorter. Also a shorter slide means less reciprocating mass leading to less recoil .
How would you clean it with the comp on
It's difficult. You can move the barrel around enough to get in there with a brush, but you can never quite get it squeaky clean.
@@thegunpenguin Well that stinks. I have been eyeing pmm comps for a while. You are the first I recall mentioning that it's permanent. Thanks for the video
"I hate when my comp rotates itself off its threads when I shoot with it." something said by the guy that designed this thing probably
I wonder about that. It's happened to me exactly 0 times, but I also check my set screws very often.
@@thegunpenguin I kinda think that's only really a concern if it's a symmetrical design where its harder to tell it's happening unless you're paying attention to it but to me its similar to worrying about AR15 trigger pins walking out.
@@thegunpenguin I've shot my Fucking Rifle compensator off. I'm definetely the moron this is made for.
Its not even close to being permanently attached dude. MAPP gas or a heat gun, a vise, and a wrench. Like I've watched 1 specific dude put somewhere between 17-20k rounds though it in like 8 or 9 months, used high heat resistant red loctite on it so it wouldn't come loose and removed it when he did his final review on it.
This is the same method you'd use to remove small screws from gas blocks that have been loctited with high heat resistant loctite.
Me and a number my students and friends run PMM comps and none of us had issue removing or putting them on and we've all shot between 5-10k rounds through them typically due to current ammo prices in the last 4-9 months.
The comps are amazing and the attachment method is fine. And I've watched blue loctite fail on almost every set screws comp I've ever seen or used. They never hold up to high volumes of shooting like high round count classes.
Yeah really not going to hurt the barrel or the comp with a Mapp torch or a Heat Gun. Unless he didn't secure it and gouged the barrel or comp with a wrench. Could use a towel even then.
What holster is that?
It’s made by Midwest Tactical Solutions.
@@thegunpenguin Thank you!
My pleasure!
Brake cleaner will breakdown down the red loctit
As a method to remove it, have you considered mag dumping several mags of bullets before attempting to unscrew it? That strikes me as the safest way to apply heat to the threads.
Ultimately, that might be the only way to get it off at home, but I'd have to take a vise to the range. Do you think 150 rounds or so would get it to 600 degrees?
@@thegunpenguin I couldn't tell you honestly. But I have experience removing red loctite from AR set screws with a culinary torch and a sacrificial Allen key.
I intuitively guess that 3 15 round mags fired at max fire rate would get it soft enough to not damage the gun, but still difficult to remove. I bet 150 rapid fire rounds would do it. I would guess the max temp you can reach would be achieved at fewer rounds than that.
Why don't they make one with a set screw
Why not use rock set instead...?🤨🤔
Try it, test it for 3 months, and make a video about the results. I can't speak for anyone else, but I used the provided thread locker, because I test guns on CZcams. I do exactly what the manufacturer tells me to do the first time. Rocksett is going to be easier to remove, but only slightly. I can't speak for anyone else, but I'll pass. From my perspective, it makes more sense to use a different comp altogether. However, I'm not suggesting that's the right answer for other folks.
I had a glock for a while that had a comp on it, and the set screw kept loosening up on me... And the fuckin' thing lost reliability on top of that. Didn't much care for that.
But this looks like it works awesome!
Try to rockset it’ll disolve overnight.
Use rocksett. To remove the compensator with rocksett? Just use boiling water, about 5 minutes. That is it with rocksett.
I love my 92a1 its my favorite handgun in my collection. But i really don't see a need for the comp its a giant gun especially for nine mill and when you put a 4 once surefire light out front and there is next to no recoil. I don't think its really worth the money or ammo reliability issues. Maybe if you just used it for competition. But whatever to each there own. Cool vid bro
Thanks! It's understandable that you'd want to avoid adding more stuff to your 92. I have a pile of guns, and I'm always looking to push performance as far as it can go. The comp definitely helps with that. As little recoil as there is without it, there's even less with the comp installed. But it certainly doesn't make sense on every, or even most, guns!
Then don’t use red locktite! Blue?
While that might seem like the very obvious answer, we don't know how well that would hold up with the shim system. I suspect that a set screw with blue Loctite will work better than shims with blue locker.
@@thegunpenguin yeah after watching this I kinda like it. You sold it for me but I will mill a small hole and put my own set screw in that bad boy. I work with locktite a lot and I avoid the red devil as much as possible.
Thanks bud!!!
My pleasure! If you don't mind, let me know how it goes, drilling for the set screw. That might be a great alternative for folks who still want to use this.
Just use rocksett vs red loctite...
Definitely not that hard to remove them. Little torch. Apply heat till loc tite liquifies. Remove and clean before it sets again.
Being real, you're not supposed to douse it in red loctite. A dab of it will do, and you can turn right through it with just arm strength.
should have used blue lock tight.
I review guns on CZcams. When I install a product, I always follow the manufacturer’s directions the first time. After that, I do what I feel is best.
As for you, luckily, you can do what you want from the start. But, because of the shim system, and lack of a set screw, blue is likely going to need frequent application. How frequent, I can’t say, but you should try it, test it for six months, and then make a video about the results.
@@thegunpenguin i feel you. I do not comply my damn self.
@@thegunpenguin i way at the range when I last Read your message. But in reality I have been thinking about compensators all night. All you need is some lubrication and a small small small drill bit. And you could make your own set screw holes.
@@latronwilliams7578 Absolutely! You should sort out the details, test it for six months, and make a how-to video detailing the process.
As for me, I review guns on CZcams. I have to leave the comp stock for the long-term testing, or my test won't be valid. But you're not bound by any restrictions -- you can be a trailblazer for the rest of us.
@@thegunpenguin im down here in myrtle Beach. come visit sometime
I’m afraid to make permanent mods to my guns like this because I’m a massive pussy but cool video though!
Why not just get the actual Beretta Compensator? It is easy to remove, just unscrew it.
I agree. However, I’m reviewing the PMM here, not the Beretta. The existence of one product does not mean that we shouldn’t take a look at the others. And besides that, the Beretta didn’t exist at the time.
What holster is that?
I don’t know the exact model, but that’s definitely a Safariland of some sort.