One Simple Trick to Extend Well Pump Life (Flow Sleeve)
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- In this video, we show you how to build a flow sleeve for your submersible well pump and motor.
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Good idea, my motor is already damaged but luckily the technician advised on this Cooling sleeve
Professor Chris, that’s what we should be calling you. Fantastic tip! Please continue sharing your vast knowledge which blows people’s minds! I am eagerly anticipating your videos about your water pressure booster products.
I’m lobbying Merriam-Webster to have your picture placed next to the word “awesome”... they said,” But Awesome is an adjective, used to describe something, blah, blah, blah”. So I said, “Fine, then use it in the example section under the word” like “Chris from R.C. Worst is Awesome”. I’m waiting to hear back, I’ll let you know how it turns out...
Really?? Wow!
I heard from many installers they work good,good instructions -Thanks for the tip.
You bet!
Nice tip, I didnt know about the SCH40 being too thick about a month ago, got everything set up, built a collar for the top, then the pump wouldnt fit in the tube. :/ It went down in the well anyhow, as I had already pulled the pump out of a 70ft depth by myself 3 times that day already, and I wasn't doing it anymore, lol.
sir can you do a goulds sj jet pump 1hp dismantling and installation of shaft seal?
We must have the technology to put small heat sensors on the motor & pump, and record the data then throw it into a graph over time? Would be less of a crap shoot because that's what we are really doing here.
Shouldn't the screws be stainless steel?
What size does it fit then?
I have a large open well about 60 feet deep with 18 to 20 feet of water as far as I can tell ... I'm assuming that I need to install an induction sleeve on my pump to ensure proper flow for cooling and help to extend the life of my pump is this correct
Yes, that is correct.
What is the actual ID of the sleeve?
I had my well drilled and pump installed 30 years ago for the first time. The installers put the pump inside of a 4in inside diameter PVC pipe that was 60 in Long. They secured the pump inside the pipe with a 4in well cap. I have replaced the pump a couple of times and I'm in the middle of it again today. This is the first video I've seen mentioning this " flow collar". Your method has more steps and seems less desirable to me.
I agree with you completely, the well cap method is far superior. The method outlined in this video is how Franklin Electric instructs the sleeve to be made.
If one lives in a warm climate the idea of 10 gpm and a pressure tank holding five gallons of water keeps the well industry employed selling expensive pumps domed to fail every few years. Put in a one or two gpm pump filling a 2500 gallon storage tank with a small pressure pump top side. The cost of this is far less, far more dependable and far easier to maintain or repair.
You seem to be quite knowledgeable in the field. I’m in the Philippines, would you mind answering a few questions?
You have an interesting solution to this problem. Shame on the manufacturers for telling us we ought have a flow inducer (which is true in larger well casings or open water), but then not supplying a properly engineered and manufactured kit, not documenting a workable design, forcing us to improvise as you've demonstrated.
Your improvised sleeve has several faults. The main problem is that the size pipe you've applied (4in SDR35 pipe sleeving a 3.75in OD pump) is too small. You are restricting the intake! You should be using the next available size up, 6in pipe. The intake water has to flow through a narrow gap between the 4in pipe ID and the 3.75in motor OD. If you calculate the area of that restricted ring of flow, you'll see that the cross-sectional area of intake flow can be less than the area of the specified output pipe. The flow speed will also be so fast that the flow capacity is further reduced by drag. It's also on the suction side, which is compounding the problem. The pump is more or less a loose clog, and you effectively have a 3/4in suction intake. So essentially you are restricting and throttling the intake with your sleeve, and that will penalize the pump flow-rate performance. Pump intake paths always have to be bigger than the output. Otherwise the performance is reduced, and the lifetime is shortened, especially on a submersible.
Cutting and clamping the top of the sleeve to improvise a collar is asking for a future disaster. How many years would this rig last? The pump is always thumping around and that clamp is going to work off, or the tabs you cut are going to crack at the ends and propagate (brittle PVC!). Then you've got few feet of PVC lost down the well. I suggest if you're going to cut tabs, that you drill holes first at the inner end of the cut so a crack in the PVC is less likely to start and propagate. Heat the tabs up with a heat gun to bend and form them into a proper mating shape to relax against the pump OD and not put stress on the ends of the cuts, like a swage. Or use a Fernco rubber coupler, and avoid the tab feature altogether.
The grub bolts (that's what they're called) at the bottom are another worry on a flailing pump. If they're clamped down, they will be pinching and scuffing the pump constantly and come loose. If they're not clamped down, they'll get hammered loose from the weak plastic threads. First the hardware is lost down the bottom of the well and the sleeve is not working, and then the pump is doomed to overheat and fail. I suggest instead that you use two pieces of threaded rod crossed at right angles through the diameter of the pipe, with threadlocked nuts on the outside not fully tightened. This won't put any stress on the plastic pipe or chafe the motor, but stay in place. To maintain centering, cut 4 short lengths of rubber garden hose, punching a hole in one end of each, and put the hose onto the threaded rods through the holes. Fit the free end of the hose up between the motor OD and the pipe ID. Then you'll have a soft clamp on the motor OD to keep it centered and free-flowing through the intake, and an assembly that won't be donated to the abyss. You can also rig the ends of the threaded rod for stainless wire rope hoisting/safety cable, and then your sleeve is also a rescue basket to lift out the works securely without depending on the unreliable downpipe.
The majority of modern private wells in the US are cased with 4" PVC. In these situations a flow inducer is not necessary or even feasible. Flow inducers are best applied to 6" wells or larger where fluid velocities might not meet the recommended range for ample cooling. I can assure you with tens of thousands of well pumps installed over the course of the last 68 years using flow inducers, they work great, even for flows in excess of 20 gallons per minute. This particular flow inducer is not an improvised design, it is that of Franklin Electric one of the largest submersible pump and motor manufacturers in the world. This design can be found in the Franklin Electric Aim Manual on page 6.
It is worth mentioning that the primary reason for motor failure outside of misapplication or improper installation is winding failure. Winding failure is the result of heat in the windings that breaks down the insulation over time, eliminating as much heat as possible is the objective of the flow inducer. Installing a flow inducer will lend itself to longer life of the motor and possibly the pump if you have sand or sediment issues.
@@RCworstwater You're entirely correct about the cooling flow problem and its potentially ruinous severity. But in solving that problem, one shouldn't introduce new problems like intake restriction or mechanical unreliability, which can be worse than the original problem.
@@RichardKinch I realize your comment is over a year old, but I feel inclined to comment. A simple math equation will let you know that the intake area available when a 3.75” pump is stuffed inside a 4” ID tube is approx 1.53sq inches.
Most pumps have a 1 or 1 1/4” discharge. A 1 1/4” discharge equals 1.23sq inches.
As long as the intake area is larger than the discharge there won’t be issues.
@@CDNSldr1 Nope, your math is off. The 1.5 sqin intake available is less than a 3/4 in pipe, but in the form of a narrow annulus that will raise even more resistance. Think about it: there's only a 1/8 in gap. That's a faulty design.
This is crazy. You are restricting the flow of water to the pump intake!
I’m thinking the same thing. Raise the pump up if you’re experiencing enough turbulence at the bottom of the well to strip the sediment and suck it up that pipe.