Troubleshoot: Water Well Pump Starts too Often (Rapid Cycling)
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- If the pump motor starts too often that could be indicating something wrong with one of the following pieces of equipment;
1. Pressure Switch - check your settings on the pressure switch and examine for defects and wear. You may need to readjust the settings, or replace the switch. If you are in a situation where you have hard water, or sediment in the water system the pressure tube can also become clogged so check this as well.
2. Waterlogged Tank, If your tank becomes waterlogged it is likely a result of a failed tank bladder on a modern tank or failed air volume controls if you have an old style bladderless tank. On a modern bladder tank it is best to drain the pressure from the system and check the pressure within the tank, the pressure should be 2-3 psi below the pump cut on pressure, so for example on a 40/60 pressure setting, the tank needs to be at roughly 38 psi. If the tank is not holding air I recommend replacing your tank with a modern bladder pressure tank. If you do end up replacing your tank check out our video on sizing a pressure tank to get all the info you will need.
3. It could also be an indication of a Leak In the System, if you go through everything else and still are unable to find the problem then you likely have a leak within the system. Check for leaks and repair.
4. Check Valve - Stuck Open, if a check valve has failed you will see the system not holding pressure when the pump shuts off. Typically when this happens it's a failed check valve located between the pump and the pressure tank. You will need to replace the check valve in this situation.
If you need more information or assistance with products, call 855.329.4519 or email Customer.Service@RCWorst.com to speak with an industry expert. Thanks for watching!
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R.C. Worst & Co., Inc.
You mentioned bleeding the pressure from the system. Is that simply turning off the power/breaker to the pump and running the water out?
You state that if we are frequently going through pressure switches than something else is wrong, such as? We go through at least one a year, and so does everyone else in our neighborhood. What can it be, can we fix it? I'm sick of having to fix our system all the time and buying replacement switches is a huge drain.
What if the pump is taking water from the ground but not pumping it into the house. How do you fix it
When I’m showering my pressure is cycling kinda rapidly . What’s that you think
Excellent video! This is the first time I have finally understood my system. Thanks for posting!
This is a fantastic video. It gives me a clearer understanding of plumber/well driller talk. Enough so that I can call mine tomorrow and not sound totally ignorant about my pump cycling issue. I have no intention of trying to diagnose or repair this myself...but once the professionals have come and sought out the cause and hopefully repaired the problem I can rewatch this video and also check out the others that were suggested...to help make sense of it all. Being a homeowner is an educational experience. I learned a lot from this video. Well done! And thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for this! My tank was knocked over during Hurricane Michael and hasn't been right since. Followed the troubleshooting steps in this video and finally have my well running properly after 11 months. Thanks again!
Nice job! Thanks for the comment
850 strong
Thanks for posting this. I just corrected the short-cycling issue on my irrigation pump based on what I learned here!
Happy to hear it Don! Nice work!
Thanks for the video you saved the day for me! Mine got to where it was was clicking on and off constantly every time the water was used and then the pressure went totally down to zero twice in a day without hardly even using the water, so I drained the tank filled the air pressure up to 40psi and cleaned the contact points on the pressure switch and now its back to normal working operation.
Glad it helped!
Great video thanks so much. I have had a well for 17 years and have not seen this explained so well until now.
this is exactly what i was looking for... my pump is cycling on and off too often but only when there is water use in the house at the time. Now i'm going to go downstairs and run some of the tests you suggested. Thanks so much for putting this video together.
You are welcome!
Y’all are what makes CZcams great. Thanks for giving me the knowledge to check my well pump. Very informative. Straight to the point with no fluff. Clear and concise. Great job.
Thanks for watching!
Just want to thank you guys for all the helpful videos you post! I recently had to change my well pump & would never have been able to diagnose it myself, without your videos. I’m a pretty handy guy & changed it myself (with the help of a few friends), but you helped me figure out the problem for sure, as well as taught me how to check & adjust pressure switch. Great channel, thanks!
Great job!
Thank you for the tip. Fixed my issues
My pump kept turning on rapidly - off/on really quickly, I changed my pressure switch and it still did the same thing, it was the head pressure was too low, I put air into the tank in the valve and fixed my problem. Thank you.
Thank you! Determined that my pressure tank is bad. Sure appreciate the video.
I also like how you get to the point thank you
Thank you! I now feel confident to investigate more on my own. I look forward to watching more of your video.
Wonderful!
Thank you I had rust in the line underneath the switch and you pointing that out save me a lot of time thank you again
You deserve so much more recognition
Excellent Video. Many thanks.
Thank-you, just adjusted my well pump and pressure Tank, thank-you
Will continue watch your u tube..
Outstanding video! Thanks for sharing... God bless
Thanks! My issue with "fast cycling" of the pump turned out to be crud in the nipple to the pressure gage. Cleaned it out as well as the inlet to pressure switch and it cycles normally again. Just in case, I will buy a simple pressure switch for future spare part!
Awesome! Happy to hear you were able to fix the issue!
Thank you, your video helped me
Very good video & helpful! Thank you very much!
Thanks for watching!
Consider that your system is tight and holding steady at for ex. 45PSI on the gauge. Should you be able to test tank pressure and get 45 PSI, same as the gauge? If they do not agree you should adjust for that when setting tank air pressure on empty tank?
Excellent! Thank you! I was going crazy…
Glad it helped!
Hi! Total girl here, so hang with me lol
I have a jet pump. Strictly for water pressure purposes. No well, I just live on a large hill. A few months ago my pump was replaced. The old died. Other than the fact that it is ALOT louder than my previous, it worked fine. Well, being the person I am, was not satisfied with the pressure in the house. Watch a couple somewhat informative you tube videos(wish I had seen yours first!!) and went down and adjusted the nuts. Instead of messing with just the large nut, I turned the little one also a bit and I had the pump going a little wonky 🤦🏻♀️🤦🏻♀️. I adjusted back and it was working fine again. HOWEVER, the past few days it seems to be really kicking on often, especially when doing laundry. Say every 5min, running for about 10 seconds and shutting off again. The pressure has usually always read about 30psi when I go down to start laundry but noticed today it only read 20. My basement is cold, could the bladder in the pressure tank have lost air similar to the way car tires do in the winter? Also, is my pump cut in and cut off too close together? Not separated by 20 psi since I messed with both nuts that time. I’m sorry for the long post, but I’m a worrier and was just wondering if you had any idea! Thanks so much!
Stephanie, you'll want to take a look under the cover of the pressure switch for the original pressure settings (probably 30-50). Once you know that, run some water and watch the pressure gauge. Take note of where the pump turns on and off. Try adjust the pump back to its original setting written on the cover. Once that's done, you'll want to check the air pressure in the tank and make sure it's 2 psi below what the pump turns ON at (28 PSI on a 30-50 switch. To do this, )turn off the power and drain the pressure out of the system by leaving the water running until it stops and your pressure gauge reads zero. Give us a call if you have any questions or need help while you're working on it: 855.329.4519
You videos are amazing! Thank you!
Great video,my issue is my jet pump in my basement is clicking on and off after the water is shut off upstairs,this for me usually means a clogged or dirty filter,but it's just been changed and it's worse now,any ideas,I changed the filter about a month ago,is it worth checking it again??
Nice tutorial, I found that if I had a problem with short cycling and there was no discernable leak, I'd shut the whole system down via the valve at the pumphouse and see if the pressure held and if so, I'd check the pump bladder and without exception, it was usually a few pounds low so I'd pump it up to around 2# over my lower level pressure and there was no more short cycling. My biggest problem has been clogs in the 1/4" pipe that hooks up to the diaphragm at the bottom of the switch. I just had a fail in this regard now and naturally, it occurred during inclement weather when I wasn't feeling well. I'm thinking I'll add a union to the system so I don't have to disconnect all the wiring to unscrew the unit which is a PITA. Hopefully, it will work for future maintenance issues. Does this sound doable? Again, thanks for your professional and informative presentation...
I have a pressure sensor in my system, what is the difference between sensor and transmitter ?
Great job guy!
Thanks!
Fantastic video series - you are very good at explanation. My pump works - my cut off switches are are fine (new) - the pressure tank loses air - not through the air valve - no water spurting out valve when depressed. I re -pressurize tank to 38 and ran a cycle (water closed to house - after pressure tank) it goes up to 60 - will not lose pressure - check valve therefore OK before pressure switch - I open the water valve to house and the pressure drops to 40 - and it cycles back on - so far so good - however it continues to drop to zero. Pump shuts off at 30 completely so as not to keep running. I re-take pressure reading at tank - 20 . Where is the air going? No visible leak or sound? Pump seems unable to fill the tank again. I've watched most of your videos, but can't seem to pinpoint.
Thank you. The little line to the switch was clogged. It was cycling on and off rapidly.
Thanks so much for putting together this video. I had a few questions concerning the behavior of my well pump system. For one, when I shut off the main valve and someone tries to use the water, the psi reading on the pump system box starts to cycle very frequently - I'm wondering if that causes wear and tear anywhere?
Additionally, when the main valve is fully on per usual operation, I notice that the water pressure slowly drops prompting for the well pump to start up again, this cycle happens every minute or two - does this indicate a problem? We do already perform regular water filter replacements, would it also help to drain the water heater?
Thank you so much for your time.
Fantastic, thank you for this!
Glad you enjoyed it!
why the automatic water pump controller is starting frequently on every voltage fluctuation?
I have a valve on my well outside, should I let it run during warm months? It drains into pipe and runs to back yard into woods and drain in swamp. Have high water table here. Neighbors and my self have artesian wells??? Will let run a couple times yr to flush hard water build up. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Awesome video! Thank you very much.
Glad you liked it!
Great Videos
So is it recommended to have a check valve near the pressure tank if you have a submersible pump even if the submersible pump has a check valve?
Yes always install a check valve close to your pressure tank, because if the check valve deep down at the pump ever fails your well pump will continuously cycle and that’s very bad on your well pump. Also install pressure gauges before and after the check valve you install close to you pressure tank so you can monitor the pressure in the line down to the well pump . If your well pump’s check valve fails you can always install a check valve immediately above your well pump.
Yes my comment applies to submerged pumps in drilled wells.
Ways to know if your well pump’s built in check valve has failed is to have a pressure gage to see your pressure in the water line before your pressure tank and it’s check valve. If you get air into to faucet after every time your well pump comes on then you have a bad check valve at the well pump. And or also a leak hole in the line from the well pump. If your well pump is low on water you also can get some air into the system. The best way to find out is pull out the well pump from the well , inspect everything, even putting the pump in a 55 gallon drum full of water when you have it removed from the well to operate it and check all lines and fittings for leaks
Other things to notice is if your getting tiny rocks mud debris into your water system that is a sign that you have a leak in a fitting or in to line in the well coming from your pump , the leaking water from the leak is spraying onto the dirt ground levels down into the sides of your well and washing the ground contamination down to your well pump’s water intake. If you see mud dirt tiny rocks in your water system you need to pull the well pump out and fix it as soon as possible because it can seriously damage the drilled well, it can collapse the sides filling up the bottom of the drilled well. Fix as soon as possible.
So my water pressure is fine, but it does surge when toilets are filling. I emptied the pressure tank which had very little water in it. the pressure is at 0 now. when I do run water the pressure goes rapidly between 40 and 70. I know it should be 40 to 60 and not fluctuate so fast. the well pump is was brand new in 2016 but not the pressure tank. The tank looks pretty old, label is all worn off. The pressure switch was replace last November as well. Before I go buy a new pressure tank, any other trouble shooting I can do?
Great video! I have water coming out of the air valve when I tried to add pressure. Does that mean my bladder has failed?
Yes, unfortunately it does. Give us a call if you need help selecting a replacement, you can find them on our website here: www.rcworst.com/Pressure-Tanks-c171.html
Thank you for the instructional video. After replacing the pressure switch (a first for me), the cycling continues. I'd appreciate advice on what to trouble shoot next. Thanks again.
Give us a call: 855.329.4519
Thanks for making me understand. We have one issue. Pumps cut in and cut off correctly. But we are not getting the pressure. Is it because of bladder failure?
Muhammed: What has changed that makes you think there is an issue? If your pump is cutting off correctly you should be getting up to pressure. It does not sound like an problem with your pressure tank.
Great Job.
Thanks for this great video.I've been having what I believe are 2 problems with MY well pump here in Florida; First thing was the capilary tube fitting at the pump got brittle and broke off. Then it was discovered that the jet and possibly the impeller were blocked by sulfur. (My local water guy is unavailable right now) so he instructed me how to clean by using muriatic acid.and poking the jet itself with a small screwdriver and a coat hanger wire. I FINALLY got the pump to work right it seems to struggle to get to its 50psi cutoff and when it does cutoff the pressure (gage) doesn't STAY at 50psi but drops to around 35psi. My guy thinks debris from the cleaning may be partially clogging the capilary tube......I plan to take everything back apart today & clean. What are your thoughts?
I have an older vertical jet pump that is marked ao smith. It's a 1.5 horse 230v 1 phase 12am m#u27843 or c48m2fc4c1. It may be related to century also....I dk. I'm trying to locate a repair kit with bearings various gaskets and impeller parts to rebuild this pump, but I don't know what kit would work for this 20 plus yr pump....also I would like the electrical components like the capacitor the start switch and the governor switch. Also, before the pump gave out it made awful grinding metallic noises but before it made those noises it pumped sand into every plumbing fixture in the house. So I would need a foot valve also since my system is 20 yrs old. But if the foot valve is in the sand and the pipe is too deep, can I just pull it up some or not drop it down so far after inspecting or replacing the valve? Thank you for your time and knowledge
sir is the pump capacity base on the drawdown of pressure tank or capacity in full pls educate me thanks
I've got a dual stage in my house and have tried everything to fix this. Brand new pump etc. Could buggered gaskets at the pitless adapter cause this too?
What is a dual stage?
Thank you for the informative video. I noticed today that my electric usage has doubled for the last 45 days over what it normally is so I immediately suspected that my well pump may be running continuously. When I stick my head in the well house however I don't seem to hear anything. Would it be making noticable noise if it is running all the time?
Check your pressure switch/gauge. The well pump may be too far down for you to hear
@@RCworstwater Thank you for the quick reply. The pressure switch gauge is at 40. I think I have identified the issue causing my increased electrical usage (totally unrelated to my well pump fortunately) - I have ordered a KW monitor to verify my findings. I really appreciate you posting these videos and especially responding to questions!!
If I'm running a sprinkler off an outside bib and my well system is working properly (afaik, new construction house), what is the definition of rapid cycling? It takes one minute six seconds until the well pump kicks on starting from a full pressure tank, and then runs for about 45 seconds until the pressure switch turns it off.
Would it be better if I try to increase my sprinkler load and try to have the pump run continuously the entire time I'm watering? (such as adding another sprinkler to the other outdoor bib?)
Yes, the longer you can keep the pump on when using water the longer it will last.
What if I have a VFD and the pressure switch is +2 but the pump is kicking on every 10 seconds when the sprinklers are running. Shouldn't the pump continue running but at a lower adjusted speed?
Question on well cycle possible leak. Ours cycles between 40 & 70 however, it does drop to 20 before cycling on. Why is this?
does any body knows what can be causing banging on the pipes and sputtering then losing pressure to almost nothing ?too much or not enough air?it started after I replaced the water heater thank you all
Another way to tell if your pressure vessel is waterlogged. If the pressure vessel is located outside, you can touch the tank with your hand. When you touch the top of the PV, it should typically feel warm because there would be no water in the upper zone. If it feels cold then that means water has filled the entire PV (waterlogged). Under normal conditions, the PV should feel warm at the top and cool to the touch at the bottom.
Thanks for this video. My water pressure drops after a recycle without any valves or taps open causing the pump to cycle on. Any suggestions on what is going on?? Cheers,
Sounds like you have a leak somewhere
could sediment in the line cause it to chatter? i have set tank pressure correctly, set cut in and off, but my pump control still chatters when it cuts in. i am at a loss.
Thank you for this..
My pleasure!
Does the pressure switch react every time water is called for?
The pressure switch is a mechanical device that is either open or closed depending on the pressure in the system. Once the pressure in the system drops to the "Cut on" pressure the switch closes and allows power to the pump. Once the pressure reaches the "Cut off" pressure the switch opens and power to the pump is severed. Now there are some things that could cause the pressure switch to malfunction such as welded contacts or debris in the switch's diaphragm.
How often is to often? My well pump will run for about 20 seconds to fill up and it takes a out 2 minutes to empty with constant water usage... is 2 mins and 20 seconds to often?
20 seconds is far too short for a cycle. You want it to run for at least 1-2 minutes for proper motor cooling. You need a larger pressure tank: czcams.com/video/zz0dYccfqaE/video.html
Very helpful thanks
Glad it helped
Hi, I'm making a constant water pressure system in my house, I have a well. My question is: Does a (CSV) Cycle Stop Valve works the same as a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV). If not, what is the difference between these 2 valves? I don't want to buy the wrong one.
No, they are different. There is an excellent explanation of the differences here: www.plumbingforums.com/threads/csv-verses-prv-or-vfd.3271/
I have a question for you, Why is it important to have your pressure switch near the tank? I relocated my tank recently and left the switch at the top of the well. Our pump man said that it would not work that way. As long as the switch is between the tank and the check valve the pressure should be the same correct?
Good question! When the pump shuts off and turns on there is a "wave" action that takes place in your pipes, similar to water hammer. The pressure tank aborbs most of this "wave", so the pressure that is read at the tank is the most accurate. As you most away from the tank the wave gets bigger, and for a sensitive device like a pressure switch that "wave" will cause it to open and close rapidly, causing the pump to turn on and off repeatedly.
My pressure is good, but the pump stops and the water returns to the well, and reach the low pressure and the pump start again. What part needs to be replaced? Or how can I fix it?
Thank you
I have a non bladder tank after a few minutes the water pressure drops what can I check. Also if I turn an outside faucett on I have a small trickle of water in the home.
So if I drain all the water from the tank, it should stay pressurized?
My tank isn't reading any pressure when I let all the water out.
Is that a bad tank?
The pressure switches contacts somehow became mis-aligned and a spring popped out; I replaced with a 40/60 switch but when I checked the air pressure in the tank it read 58 psi, I tried lowering the pressure but the pressure on the entire system came down also. There is no short-cycling at all, and everything seems to be fine, what am I missing? PS awesome video
I changed my pressure switch and the water is not kicking on is this a bad well pump??
Thanks for this very effective and practical advice. Our pump assembly was 21 years old and for some time was almost failing with the pump on almost continually even when using a small amount of water in the house. By Xmas Eve it was almost unusable and on Xmas morning I used your advice to drain the pressure vessel, and then inflate it with a standard tyre pressure machine. Masses of water came out when I was doing this so I think the tank was water logged and the bladder is leaking. When I put the water back on and it came to pressure, it worked back as it used to do and it meant we could have a Xmas day without problems and showers and baths as normal.
Our existing pressure tank is 60 litres and I find I can buy a new 120 litre vertical one locally at a relatively low price. Am I right in assuming that the larger the pressure tank the less the pump will need to cut in? We use the water extensively to irrigate the garden and two large greenhouses so it seems to make sense to do this. We have a good well that delivers a lot of water.
Would you advise me to go down this route and should it result in a far better system for both the house and the garden watering requirements?
Seasons greetings.
Hello. Yes, the bigger the pressure tank the less cycles on the pump.
U mentioned that there should be a dull sound at the bottom and a hollow sound at the top of the tank,if there is a dull sound at the top also what does it mean an how can I find Fix it?
Richard, that means the bladder in your tank has failed and the tank needs to be replaced. If you know what gallon it is, you can purchase one on our website: www.rcworst.com/Pressure-Tanks-c171.html
If you don't know how many gallons it is, give our experts a call and they can help you figure it out: 855.329.4519
Good video. I understand why you used a 2 gallon tank, but I don’t understand why you didn’t talk about drawdown and tank sizing ? Jim
I don't have a Schrader valve on my unit anywhere. It runs my sprinkler system. I have a zone that is causing short cycling and I can't find a leak. I have a few zones that work fine and a few zones that the sprinklers are intermittently popping up.
Which valve is being opened to see if the contacts close?
I've been watching your videos and really appreciate the training and support you've provided. What I have is a water pump that appears to be short cycling only when water is used in the house. I do not heard the pump cycling when no water is being used. I have checked the tank pressure and it is at 36-38 PSI. The water pressure gauge shows 42 PSI but regardless of water use or adjustments made to the pressure switch range and limiter, the water pressure gauge does not move and cycling has not changed. What do you suggest so I can remedy this problem? Thanks in advance!
It sounds like you could have a couple different problems, but the only way to know for sure is to have a working pressure gauge. I suggest you replace it and see if 36-38 is indeed the correct tank pressure for your system, if it turns out your switch settings are 30/50 that alone would explain the rapid cycling. You might consider simply replacing the pressure switch while you're at it
I would like to ask if you could help us because the gauge of our water pump/tank is set to turn on at 20 psi ? and to turn off at 40...but we saw it yesterday and it became 10 to turn on and then turns off when it goes up until 20...we don't know what happened why the gauge measures changed. Thank you for the help in advance...
90 % of the time its water logged, drain it, add air at the top reconnect and your back in business..... the switch is rarely the problem. Pipe breakage is the 2nd thing I'd check.
My system seems to be rapid cycling, but it also loses full pressure when for example I flush the toilet. Sometimes after flushing, there is barely any water voming from the taps for a few minutes until the pump kicks in again. Any advice pls?
I have a shortage at the top of the deep well pump in the wiring.
Why will my gould j10 start if I understand hook thermal switch from ballast and after it starts I hook it back up it runs but if I leave everything hooked up and plug it in it won't run and hums
I recently replaced my 86 gallon well tank with a 36 gallon tank since I only use it to run sprinklers. I installed all new brass hardware and a 40/60 pump switch and pressurized the tank to 38 psi before installing it. I expected the well pump to run more frequently but I can’t tell if it’s short cycling. When running the sprinkler, the pump will initially cycle after a minute and run for 1 min 17 seconds. When it gets to the last couple sprinkler zones, the pump activates after a minute and runs for 1 min 28 seconds. The well tank is holding pressure. Is this considered short cycling? Thank you!
That may be a question for the manufacturer of your pump. You can ask them how many starts per hour the pump is rated for.
36 gallon total capacity your tank have 9.3gallon drawdown. Other is used with air.
Is it supposed to make a noise everytime after you run water? Sounds like an escape of gas with a hard thud after
hi my name is sheryl my son has a shallow well it lost prime two weeks ago he cannot get it to re-prime we bought a check valve and replaced that it still will not prime. we had a 100° day I don’t know if the pump kept running when it lost its prime maybe is bad now but that is our next move is to take the pump off and take it apart … the pipe coming out of well is holding water so the foot valve is good no leaks pressure switch is good could the pump be the problem?
Thanks so much for this video. I'm super hesitant to mess with my water system, but the pump is rapid cycling. When a tap on the tank with a screwdriver handle, it sounds EXACTLY the same, bottom to top. Failed tank? Thanks again!
I drained the system, checked the tank pressure. Nothing. I filled it to 38psi (40-60 switch.) Everything is fine now.
What is the best way to stop a well from freezing in Louisiana it is 22 this morning Let the water run a little then pump off and on Thank u
Thank you for the question. We recommend wrapping any piping that is above the frost line with insulation and putting a heater on anything that may freeze. You may also want to open up a faucet just enough to let it drip.
James Casady 9
How often is too often? It never really just randomly turns on, but mine will turn on say, immediately after flushing a toilet just 1x. Is this normal?
Excuse me, I have a water pump that achieves a pressure from 5 up to 7 bar and once I open the faucet the water flows strongly and after maybe two to three seconds it becomes weak, bearing in mind that the pressure tank is intact, and there is a check valve installed before, and after the pump. So, what is the cause of this problem? Do you think that one of the check valves needs to be cleaned or replaced? Or what?
Check the pressure tank diaphragm pressure. To check it, you turn off your well pump, drain all water pressure to zero. On your pressure tank you will see what looks like a bicycle tire , car tire air fitting. Check the air pressure there. It should be sett only 2 psi below your pump on pressure setting. Most well water systems are set to operate between 40 psi then turn off after getting to 60 psi. If the pressure tank inside diaphragm pressure is too high it will not be able to expand inside to store water. This causes your well pump to cycle on off very quickly and or come on immediately when you turn your faucet on.
My switch fails every night. I get up and there is no pressure at the spigots in the house. I tap it and it works again, pressurizing the tank. My well is 100 yards from my house so I have no idea have rapidly it cycles.
My pump cut in as soon as i turn on faucet BUT then almost immediatley quits for about 3-4 minutes then pumps starts and runs as it should to gain pressure,,problem is it takes forever to run a bath or shower,,i have a replacement pump and tank that im about to install..im increasing hp to 1 hp from 1/2 and increasing tank to a 30 gallon from a 15 gallon,,any idea why existing pump is shutting off so quick
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I'm getting power to my 1/2 up water pump but the impeller won't spin.
What should I do?
Same here
Hi; My pump cuts in and out quickly. If I shut the off the breaker and let some water run and then pump air into the tank it solves the problem for about a month. I tried draining the tank and the tank will not drain. Also When I check the pressure with a tire pressure gauge on top of the tank it shows no pressure. Any ideas, thanks
pressure tank probably failed
Mine does this, I was told it is foot valve. Tank was changed. Told foot valve would have to be dug up.
My pump is set 40-60psi so when station 1 comes on and pump kicks in, it reaches cut off 60psi too fast before my sprinklers can get going and shuts off, then kicks on again at 40psi goes to 60 and shuts off. It worked fine before replacing a switch. How to configure it to be same pump input and water output so pump can keep running while irrigation is on?
Give us a call: 855.329.4519
hi...I watch all U videos exlent, but I have a problem with my sprinklers sys. My pression gauge go from 40 t0 60 continue rapid cycling and have no loss water on the sys. This is normal or no. The tank is 38 psi, my switch 40--60 look like all is normal but my gauge is of and on evry 10 second Thank you .....HT
I have a problem , my pump system uses the floating pressure switch thingy . After it fills up to the right cut off, pressure quickly drops triggering the cut on (then goes on and off ) btw it drops way below the cut on. The tank it's filling is elevated/slope 60-100m from the pump and pressure tank. What should I do? Thanks in advance for any response.
It sounds like the air pressure in your tank is not set correctly. We have a video on how to check and adjust tanks that you should watch.
Thanks for the tutorial. If air is escaping from the suction line,can that make my pump comes on almost every 14 minutes. Thanks for a reply.
There should be no air in your suction or discharge lines whatsoever. If you make sure there isn't and your pump is still coming on constantly you must have a leak somewhere
I checked my tank pressure and it was 0. Added air to 38 psi and within 5 minutes it was reading 24 psi. I’m guessing I need a new tank?!
Please answer me
I read about bep pump
But i dont know where is bep for my pump
I only have small 125 watt pump
I just want to know is it well pump have same bep
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Great information. I have a problem with rapid cycling. The pressure switch clicks then it fills up the pressure tank and then clicks. But without water usage it slowly loses water pressure until it get to the cut off which is 30 PSI then it fills back up and it does this all day. I have a ball valve before my pressure tank and I’ll shut off the water supply and the tank doesn’t leak so then I had a guy come out to my home and replace my well pump. But I still have the same problem. Any idea what it could be?
You have a leak somewhere if the pump is turning off and on without any known usage.
Did you ever get it figured out? Mines doing the same I just freaked out and bought a whole new pressure tank and calling a plumber tomorrow.
A shot in the dark.
I have one that
Cycle very short around 40psi and the pump doesn't seems to be want to go higher. Even I have tighten the big bolt. The pump just keep running without going up in pressure. Just switching on/off every 30 sec around 40psi
that profesional pressure tool..