Michelin Pilot Street 2 Tyre Review on Inmotion V11 EUC
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- update: The mass of Michelin Pilot Street 2 80/90-14 is 2348g (I measured the brand new tyre for my ShermS 13/01/23)
Tyre Review on Inmotion V11 EUC - Michelin Pilot Street 2 80/90-14
Review of the 80/90-14 Michelin Pilot Street 2 Tyre on the Inmotion V11 Electric Unicycle.
00:00 - Start
00:13 - Introduction
00:45 - Stock CST 1488 Tyre
02:29 - Michelin Pilot Street 2 Tyre?
03:44 - Tyre Change
09:47 - Initial Tyre Review
11:20 - Long Term Tyre Review
Links
How To Change An Inmotion V11 Tire - • How To Change An Inmot...
Where I bought this tyre - www.bikebiz.com.au/products/m...
@John Purcell I would definitely advise turning the tire around to its proper forward direction. Just because it's a single wheel and just because a motorcycle has a front wheel that does the majority of the braking doesn't mean you should do as motorcyclists do.
You don't have the mass to take advantage of the gripping power you're speaking of. As well, motorcycles front wheels aren't drive wheels. Which your EUC is.
Drive wheels stay warmer and front wheels stay cooler. Front wheels only get warm when cornering at high speeds. Hell the front tire on a motorcycle being driven hard is only there to direct the bike.
Reversing the wheel helps them get warm because it increases friction. But because the compound is laid directionally you're actually increasing excessive shear and causing failure to occur earlier. Why does it increase friction, because of the tread pattern and increased shear due to reversed compound direction.
You see tires have no need to resist shear moving in reverse. You're never going fast enough in reverse. What happens in reverse is you release quicker, release being the moment of failure, understand? Especially in wet weather when the tire is coolest.
As well the compound is laid down to both heat up for more stickiness but directionally be less resistant. This is a like magic science being both sticky but having low rolling resistance.
You are actually increasing your vertical tire patch and decreasing your lateral tire patch. How it works is the longer the tire patch the more rolling resistance, the wider the patch the more lateral grip you have. Optimal resistance to grip ratio is a squared patch theoretically. But there are factors that can effect a preferred higher width over length. There are studies about how this works. But the easiest way to learn about this science, partially, is to go to bicyclerollingresistance.com and pick a couple of the racing tires and observe the test data for those tires and you'll glean much. But those are bicycle tires.
Directional tires are meant to be used in the direction stated on the tire. You can even have tires that are meant to be front wheel or rear wheel. For motorcycle high performance tires such as yours you must consider the purpose of the tires. At cruising speed there are no worries other than rolling resistance.
But sport bike tires are designed with acceleration and deceleration in mind. Remember, when racing, these tires never cruise. They accelerate all the way to the beginning of a corner and then decelerate under extremely hard braking with over 400 lbs of combined mass that of course multiplies from very high speeds. Your tire is designed for these purposes. The heat involved is high and the tire actually needs high heat to perform at it's optimal level. The mass of the bike and rider and the speeds under acceleration and deceleration provide that heat. Cornering also provides heat from the energy released from lateral friction at high speed.
Currently a EUC and rider with it's combined mass and speeds will never quite get the tire to it's optimal tire temperature. And I mean ANY tire. They simply weren't designed with EUC's in mind. Lowering pressure can offset this a little, but you can only go but so low before you run into punctures and pinch flats. But the nature of that tire you have there especially as a driven tire can gain you some heat. But not if you have the tire facing the wrong way. You're actually deterring the tire from heating to optimal condition which lowers performance both in braking and grip.
So you're basically increasing rolling resistance, lowering your failure threshold and lowering your braking grip. All at the same time.
Turn your tire around.
So this should be installed as a rear tire or a front tire? I was thinking rear myself, but as you said the tire will not generate nearly as much heat as a motorcycle would create, so wouldn't installing it backwards as if it was a front tire generate the most heat so it performs better?
@@jtm94 No because as above, the compounds on directional tires are designed to provide the most benefits in the direction they laid the compound.
As well different parts of the tire have different compounds. The center of the tire may have a compound that's low in rolling resistance but provides traction when driven, while the sides of the tread will resist sheer better.
With most motorcycle tires the rear tires and front have different compounds because one wheel is driven and the other isn't. The rear under high torque will resist shear earlier on the center of tread to provide maximum application of force to the surface it's in contact with. Reversing the direction of the tire lessons that ability because of how the compound reacts to force being applied in different directions. They lay the compound in a way that maximizes the abilities of the compound. You are actually lowering that threshold of failure.
Failure has three different branches: resistance to shear, shear being lateral failure. Loss of grip under high torque (vertically) due to breakage and deflection and a lack of optimal temperature, or lack of grip under high torque due to high temperature which causes a different type of shear (melting), only vertically. The third you'll never achieve really unless the tire pressure is really really low. But the first two are the most concerning. All of that is of course affected by the size and shape of the contact patch. So tire pressure has a number of rolls effecting all three branches.
Then a fourth concern is rolling resistance. Running a low pressure increases rolling resistance but provides more gripping force under high torque situations. Reversing your tire directionally will increase resistance because of how the compound releases from contact and also how the tire reacts due to variables of the surface causing deflection.
Deflection is bad as it it is a moment where an area of the tire isn't in contact with the surface in one moment and then comes back into contact in another causing higher than normal moments of friction. That's why tires feel so slick and bumpy when the pressure is too high. A lot of money is spent designing compounds to defeat deflection under higher pressures because of the benefit of while the tire is in contact under higher pressures, it has lower resistance as long as the tire isn't also enduring deflection. Lower resistance equals better efficiency and higher speeds.
So, you are increasing resistance, lower moments of failure, and lowering your efficiency by reversing that tire and lowering your speed..... All at the same time. I mean the tire will still work just not as well as if it was in its proper direction. Hell the tire will wear faster too!
@@jtm94 I mentioned the bicycles before because you can actually feel the difference on bicycle because You, the rider, are the motor. Any instances of increased resistance you can feel. You can more easily feel deflection as well because you have to work harder to maintain the same speed and you can feel when the tire slips and skips due to deflection. The torque is quite high on a bicycle and given the size of the tires and the nature of you being the motor, it makes it more noticeable. But the principal is the same. Except a bicycle has two wheels. It's rare that both wheels are reaching failure at the same time. One wheel fails you have the benefit of the other wheel giving you a much greater ability to correct before a crash. Unicycles don't have that luxury.
would you recommend another tire? what's your thoughts on the knobby tire?
@@pathnativejam It depends what you plan to do with the wheel. For my RS19 trail wheel, I prefer knobby. But on my commander Im getting this tire because its my cruiser wheel. Smooth on roads, better in corners, and less resistance than a knobby could increase potential range over an entire battery. Also if you want this tire check out the site called motosport. They have it for close to $50 but if you get it through an EUC store like alien rides its $100
Great tire review! Thanks for making this!
Much appreciated! Now I am almost looking forward to getting a flat so I have an excuse to change the tire on my V11 :)
Excellent video!!! Thanks for the informative review.
Excellent review!! I’ll have to put one on my V11 too.
Very thorough review. I have done a tire change and you are right that it can take a solid afternoon to complete. I am surprised that you think it has better traction than the stock tire. Good to know!
Awesome 😎 thanks brother!!🙏
Very informative video. I really like these kinds of talks because tires are the most influential way to change how our wheels ride. Surprised to see you like it better offroad versus the stock tire. Is sad that you lose some range/braking. I have the same tire on the way and look forward to trying it on my EXN.
cheers and enjoy your new tyre!
@@jonoeuc see my comment about tires and the direction of the tire. You need to turn that tire back to it's proper direction
@@jonoeuc great choice in tires though. But read my comment I left. Very important information about that tire and reversing it's direction that you did. It's not a good thing on sooo many levels. It's a lengthy comment though, but there's a lot to tell.
Great video. I love my tire
Hey mate, that was a great video, a tire can make such a dramatic difference. I rode the V10F and after a tire change it performed like a much more sportier wheel with lots of nimbleness. I’m moving up to the V11 next, thanks to your awesome video I will be changing out the factory tire upon purchase. Thanks for the ride review, again great video awesome content 👍 cheers from Perth😎
That's sweet, eucs all around Aus / Perth!
It's a great all rounder, enjoy.
Thanks man! I also did change tire to Michelin from Pirelli angel and it's a Mitch better tire at least for me
ver nice info~👍
Since I am having a plan to ride a long-distance travel.. I'm considering change my s 22 tire to pilot street 2 from Heidenau k66. I do off-roading a lot but can't give up those on road grips too.
I hope this pilot street 2 tire works well on both on-road and off-road 😊 as my K66 did.
once again thank you for your informative vids~👍🙏🙏
Hey mate, I gather you want the PS2 tyre for better traction on street riding and or improved range?
I'm a bit concerned if you're doing lots of offroad the PS2 maybe inferior to the K66 which seems to be a good hybrid.
The PS2 tyre is great for me since i'm mainly street riding. It's really solid in light offroad - packed dirt / gravel roads. Anything loose such as sand, mud or wet grass is sketchy!
I talk more about the PS2 but versus the Kenda K262 offroad tyre here czcams.com/video/0iOiUoTX2pA/video.html
Interesting! Wrote a comment asking why front orientation instead of rear then I got to that part of the vid. lol. I plan on setting my City Pro in the rear orientation for my Sherman. My reasoning is that the tread angle in rear orientation is better for water displacement (and therefore better grip in wet... ???) according to tyre makers. For me, acceleration is the great force on EUCs. Personal thing of course. Thanks for the vid! Hope to see more!
I'm torn between front vs rear. On one hand it just looks right in the rear orientation.
Then yeah i heard the argument about the front motorbike tyre parts the water for the rear tyre in a straight line. I hope! that manufacturer's know what they're talking about when it comes to reversable tyres.
The not so obvious thing is the outside water channels. In front orientation, when leaning over, the channels transport and eject the water out the center of the tyre improving corning grip/wet performance! ie cornering left,the water is ejected to the right of the tyre!
I'm just now speculating that rear orientation is better for straight line water displacement and front orientation cornering.
True! acceleration could be the go particularly with front power pads. My setup is rear pads only. yet to position them in a way that doesn't make seated riding uncomfortable.
Balescream has posted a lengthy explanation on the orientation in these comments. worth a read!
@@jonoeuc interesting read indeed! I had the same thought about an EUC tyre being more the drive tyre than a steering tyre hence my instinct to orientate it in the “rear” direction. So what’s the plan now? You gonna change it around?
@@Kamikazekman I want to but honestly it's a lot of work plus i've siliconed the shell on. Not wanting to tackle that challenge yet! I've had zero grip issues, the main reason to change it is the reduced rolling resistance and peace of mind.
Looks great - thanks for the video. One thing - you can't really compare tires while they aren't mounted. This is because the bead probably isn't at the same width as it will be when it is mounted and inflated on the wheel. The shape of the tire is generally different when mounted - a lot depends on the internal width of the rim.
Good point! I need to measure the rim width next time.
We all have our own styles to ride, but i found out early on that tilting my wheel with my shins would quite quickly hurt my knee joint because of the lateral motion so instead i just press my leg more into the turn and do not even touch my wheel with my shins or knees.
wow really different. I feel like i'd get wobbles doing that. hmm i'll have to play around with the technique just to test.
I just bought this for my Master. I hope it works as well.
It should do, completely different feeling wheel after the swap. enjoy!
Hey Jon! Great review and thanks so much for this. I've switched to this particular tire because of your video. Initial testing of the tire fit is okay, but as I try longer, I noticed that there is some scraping sound between the tire and the housing of the V11. Have you had this issue and what fixes can you recommend? Hoping to hear from you, thank you!
Hi Shane, damn we've gotta fix that up!
I had scraping too. The kickstand was clamping the shells together and binding the tyre on part of the rotation. I stretched the kickstand to reduce this tension. If your case is particularly bad, you may need to grind some of the tyre away with a belt sander on by spinning the wheel up against the concrete.
How did you get on?
cheers jono
@@jonoeuc Thanks for the tip John. I tried stretching the kickstand but the ends were still rubbing, so I ended up removing the stand altogether. The tire works beautifully. There’s no uncertainty about skidding and stability. Plus now i ride seated and the quality is just amazing.
Thank you for this video it was very helpful.
I have a v11 that I commute with every single day also in a lot of rain and I've been thinking about changing to that exact tire that you mentioned in the video.
So thank you for this friend and specially for the link on where to buy it.
The dimension in the link is that the same as the original Tire?
Best regards Carlos Vettorazzi in Sweden
Hi Carlos, you are most welcome!
yes you want the 80/90-14 size. This isn't an exact fit. I believe the stock CST1488 is a mountain bike tyre of the 18x3" size.
The 80/90-14 is close enough and what I used in the video.
One thing I would do differently and suggest for you is to run it in the Rear wheel orientation instead of Front.
Take Care,
Jonathan
Thanks for a fantastic video, Jon! My V11 needs a tire change soon, and this definitely sold me on the Michelin Pilot tire. You gotta have a safe quality tire when you're only riding on one!
I also have a question/concern about a problem I recently encountered, I would appreciate it if anyone has any input. It had been raining for a week and I rode my v11 in it, and now I've noticed a creeky noise coming from the axel. The wheel was smooth as butter before but now rides rather rough, as if all the lubrication has been washed out and it's just metal on metal. Does anyone have any idea what happened and what can be done to restore it? Thanks so much in advance for your inputs!
Hey Matt, excellent! I'm getting another one to put onto my Sherman S. I was recently speaking to another rider who tried the Pirelli Angel. They said it 'chattered' around hard cornering due to micro slips in traction! definitely doesn't happen with the Pilot Street 2.
Do you know what batch your V11 is? To ride in the rain you need the rubber bearing covers and grease as I show in the video.
When you strip it down for the tyre change have a look. If not then the bearings will be washed dry and may have dirt in them. I believe you can remove, clean and re-grease the bearings - then add the bearing rubber protective covers.
It could also be the suspension and sliders? PTFE dry lubricant seems to be what most of us use.
hope that helps
cheers jono
@@jonoeuc Thanks, again, for the tips, Jon! My V11 is from batch 3 (Dec. 2021, I believe.)
It's definitely the bearings that caused the creaking and not the suspension system. I applied some lubricant to the axel (without disassembling but after cleaning the dirt around it, if you can believe it) and that seemed to have quieted about 90% of the noise, but still not as smooth as before. I'll have to take it apart to do a thorough cleaning and applying grease to the ball bearings, as you suggested, to restore the original feel. It's just not something I'm looking forward to though, although if I can change the tyre too then it'll be worth the effort. Just wished they had designed a simpler way to maintain these things.
Also, I can't believe the bearings lubricant can be washed away so completely to cause such a problem; the axel is pretty high up and I don't think it ever made contact directly with a big slash of water. Guess I'll need to order the rubber sealer/gasket kit to eliminate this future issue.
Will give an update when that's all done, Jon. Btw, I forgot I had the Michelin Pilot Street 2 tyre on my Sherman Veteran and that thing rides like a dream! I just hadn't thought of it for the V11.
All the best for 2023 & happy and safe riding!!!
@@jonoeuc Have you already changed the tire for you Sherman S? how it compared to the stock one? BTW great review!
Amazing video, watched it twice (in a span of a few weeks)! Is it possible and if so, worth it to go tubeless with it? With like a tubeless bicycle valve or something..
Hey mate, It seems to be 'possible' but may slowly leak. I've heard 3PSI per week (no slime and on the sherman S for reference).
It's worth the weight saving in the rotating mass but then trading off security of a tube. Ie if the tyre bead comes off in hard cornering etc that may cause a crash. Plus the pressure upkeep is putting me off trying it myself.
here is a discussion about it on the V11 group (if you didn't post it in the first place lol) facebook.com/groups/inmotionv11/permalink/903874620811237/
Someone converted the Sherman S to a tubeless Michelin Pilot Street 2 setup too!
czcams.com/video/P00W9dnxTtQ/video.html
PS I used this tyre again on the my Sherman S. Compared against the Knobby Kenda K262 in this video if you're interested!
love it for road riding / cornering / carving plus nimbleness. Some have suggested the Heidenau K66 as a hybrid option which I'm interested in if I needed more off road.
czcams.com/video/0iOiUoTX2pA/video.html
@@jonoeuc yes I watched the Sherman S video entirely and liked that video too! Thanks for your detailed videos!
Will stick with tubes during the replacement when the stock tyre wears out
went for michelin from stock Sherman which after wearing out gave horror train tracks. not so with Michelin
which pump do you have? I like the digital gauge which makes it easier to read for me without having to pull out my reading glasses lol.
It's so much better than the tiny inaccurate gauges!
It's the Venzo Bike Bicycle High Pressure Shock Pump 300 PSI Max Fork & Rear Suspension with Digital Gauge
from here: www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/venzo-bike-bicycle-high-pressure-shock-pump-300-ps/GS-411
Two of the Inmotion pumps broke instantly which reflected poorly on them.
its a rare tyre in Serbia, is this the same or similar tyre (Michelin Pilot Street 80/90-14 tt/tl m/c and why only street 2?
Thanks in advance
Hey max, that size should fit the V11 in general.
I believe this is the tyre you're suggesting www.michelin.com.au/motorbike/tyres/michelin-pilot-street
I'm not sure what you're asking in the the last question. if you're asking why I choose the street 2 over the street 1. Then I presumed the V2 would be overall a better product. The V1 is likely quite capable too.
Hey Jon,
I just finished replacing my tire with the Michelin pilot 2 80/90 and the tire does not spin freely. It appears that the tire is too wide. It’s making contact with the housing. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks, Thomas.
Hi Thomas, did I reply to you somewhere else? anyway hopefully you've got it sorted by but in case not.
I had to stretch my V11 stand to prevent it clamping the housing onto the tyre. It was slightly rubbing on turns otherwise.
In an extreme case you may need to grind the tyre down against concrete or with a sander.
ta
When I look under my car hood I don't see any circuit boards. When will they develop auto style modules?
I guess we're still too early adopters in the EUC development. Hopefully it matures quickly (cough cough begode)
Why did you use a tube?
I'm curious since the tire is tubeless radial.
I plan on doing this to my V11 and am just curious.
Hi Jay, I re-used the existing 18x3" inner tube. The Michelin tyre actually has text on its sidewall recommending using a tube in a non tubeless setup. There is a shot of it in the video but I didn't point it out explicitly.
Have a good one!
@@jonoeuc Thank you so much for clarifying! Have a great one ride safe 🤟
@@jaybomb5022 EUC Rim isn't built for tubeless. If you installed this tire as tubeless you would have a problem because you need a valve stem which is attached to the tube you took out. Maybe you can get a seal with a valve stem on this rim but Im not sure if thats possible.
@CrunchyTire It's possible with a 45degree stem and the proper tool to pull it through the hole. What I worry about is the lip of the rim not seating to the bead. The Ninebot Z10 has a tubeless radial, I wonder what the difference is in the rim.
Did u use back the tube or did u convert it to a tubeless? i did change my tyre on my ex.n (with the tube) but after a month i changed it back to the original as the michelin tyres were too hard on my knees. Maybe coz V11 has suspension u didnt feel the hardness as much as my ex.n? thoughts? tq
Hey Jason, yeah I re-used the same inner tube. That's interesting because I felt the Michelin dampen the smaller chattering vibrations.
It's hard for me to say re suspension. The V11 is the only wheel i've owned and have experience.
Did you maintain the same pressures between the two?
Good question. With the harder side walls of the Michelin tyre i went down from 26psi to 18 psi. (Im 68kgs w gear). Even at 18 psi it felt hard. The advantage i got fr Michelin was i can feel the dampening more then being bouncy. Finally i stopped using it was coz i actually bent my rim slighly. I would go back to the Michelin if im on a go kart track of racing but thats me
@@swatadvisers wow huge drop in pressure between the two! Ah damn that sounds like a fiasco!
It has to be the suspension difference. I'm Running the michelin 2psi *higher* than the 1488, 33 vs 31psi.
To help preserve my knees was a big reason going for the V11 with suspension too. Plus the safety factor.
Keen to try non sus but not to own. Leaning more and more to Sherman S over V13 atm.
@@jonoeuc atm for me s18 but exclusively for offroad only. Thinking of replacing my Monster pro to master pro
hey mate where can i get those round gaskets to cover the motor from the water.
Hey Ben,
Luckily my v11 came with those but they're available at my local shop "PART: V11 Bearing Cover (Single)"
e-riderz.com.au/product/inmotion-v11-spare-parts-2/
and also here:
www.smartwheels.store/product/inmotion-v11-bearing-seal-kit-from-tpu-and-petg
I see they were on aliexpress but aren't in stock atm.
www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803627974068.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US
hope that helps!
Great job. The proper motorbike tyres that are available for 14' rims is the reason I think I'll go for a larger EUC next time. It looks like your in northern Queensland?
cheers mate. what are you riding atm?
SE QLD sunshine coast area!
@@jonoeuc hey Jon. I currently ride a Kingsong 16x but am looking at the Kingsong s22 to take on the mountain bike trails down here in Tasmania
@@brentonporter6925 ah nice yeah i hear that's a great trail and jumping wheel. Does the motor stator slippage issue bother you?
I've got a preorder on the v13 but just as likely to change to the sherman s. waiting on reviews!
@@jonoeuc it does, and so does the slider problem. I'm waiting for later versions when all is well. The V13 seems like a well made wheel (at this stage), a little large for my purposes.
I got the same tire. I think it loses too much range. Not sure if that’s because of the tire direction or the bigger size.
What I came to realize is that it's just too much tyre for the V11. Way more performance / traction than i'll ever need on the V11. Plus the heavy tyre is a bit much for the V11's power.
Still a good tyre but yeah overkill perhaps!
What was your range loss? I lost around 15% range.
Maybe 20%. But yeah, this tire feels very smooth and stable. By the way, I noticed another interesting thing. When I was inflating the tire, I set it to 40 psi. After the digital inflator stopped at 40 psi, the reading dropped to 35 immediately. If I set it to 43, it dropped to 38 later. I believe the tube wasn’t leaking. It had never happened before. Do you have had the same situation?
How many miles do you think the Michelin tire gets before it needs replacement
guessing 10,000km // 6,200miles.
My V11 has 4,000km // 2,500miles on it atm and looks barely worn so possibly way more.
Very nice, too bad that Inmotion has left the hollow bore motor on V12. It is really much better in terms of durability and torque (and also tire change, from the V12 axle cables are sticking from both sides :D). Anyway it is interesting that you do not like this tire. I have axactly the same patern on my Begode Tesla T3 (but smaller - 16x2,125) and I absolutelly love it :).
One nice tradeoff is smaller bearing surface area - better water resistance supposedly.
Oh nice! Now I want to go back on it for testing!
I've heard that after a few thousand miles // kms the tyre rounds off making it handle better.
I kind of feel the Michelin is too much tyre for the V11 now. Overkill really.
cheers
Salut l'ami, y a t'il une grosse différence entre le street 1 et le street 2 ?
Hi, I haven't tried the Street (radial?) 1 so I can't make a direct comparison. As far as I know it's fairly similar and if you can't get the 2 then it should be fine. Although I can't find the right size for a 14" rim www.michelin.com.au/motorbike/tyres/michelin-pilot-street-radial#
Whats the name of the air pump and where did u buy it pls
It was awesome while it worked but recently broke - started leaking out the end nozzle. Warranty job without issue. This shop seems to no longer stock it sadly.
Venzo Bike Bicycle High Pressure Shock Pump 300 PSI Max Fork & Rear Suspension with Digital Gauge
www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/venzo-bike-bicycle-high-pressure-shock-pump-300-ps/GS-411
@@jonoeuc ok thank u
After two month of making this video. Do you still recommend this tire?
Yeah it's been solid. More tyre than i've ever needed, feels like overkill! so much grip on paved surfaces. 5600km total on the V11 (so about 3000km on this tyre) and plenty of tread left. It seems that it should be positioned as a rear tyre from what i've been hearing. Doesn't seem to have caused any issues though.
@@jonoeuc Why as rear? And do you feel grip and traction on this vs knoby tire?
@@YASAJTV see the comment by @JamesMcClellan who delves into directionality.
So far both have had plenty of grip on paved surfaces. It's more about the round profile of the street tyre providing linear and predictable carving at all speeds. The K262 has a gap in the tread on the sides that it falls into which i've gotten use to but still don't like.
The street is far less grippy offroad but is still capable at a slower pace. offroad is a minor part for me.
I was told today that the 80/90 is not meant for the v11
its larger and heavier than the stock tyre which makes it a tight fit. However 80 90 14 is what i used.
can always go for the slightly smaller pirelli angel tyre
2:15 bro you shouldnt feel train tracking on v11. The treads makes it like a street tire, it is a street tire. Jump on a master and try to turn on it's stock tire, you'll know what train tracking is.
What's the master running the Kenda K262? That's what i'm trying on the serman s.
Perhaps we have different definitions of train tracking. I would feel it grab ridges in the concrete and twist the wheel to follow that groove. riding cross slopes the wheel had a mind of its own and required concerted effort to keep it straight.
What I feel on the master isn't train tracking. The tire has a drop off point on the edge so if you take a sharp turn if feels like you fall of a cliff, then it catches again. Its scary the first time you feel it lol. When I got the V12, it followed cracks and resisted my turning. That is what I believe to be train tracking. And the V12 had the same stock tire as the V11.
You faced the weathering rotation the wrong way! The radial direction is supposed to drain the water "away" from the tire! Right now your drawing water toward the centre of the wheel. I'm so confused as to why they marked the tread pattern to direction in that regard. It goes against my understanding of weathered radial direction tyres. I'm so confused
hey James,
There is deep misconceptions about tyre directionality. The Street 2 is a bi directional tyre which can be used front or rear (flipped 180). the deep treads are better at clearing water *while cornering* it moves water *away* from the cornering edge inside to outside. The front tyre of a motorcycle is the turning wheel and leads in the rear. This is where it gets tricky with an EUC since it is the turning, braking and acceleration wheel.
Here is a photo i recently took of a triumph motorcycle front tyre --> imgur.com/a/fmTNmIL
From what i've heard, the tread edge is reinforced for power to be applied in a particularly direction (to prevent rolling of the rubber). For the rear tyre acceleration. Braking for the front.
There was one comment here that was adamant a rear orientation be used. However I believe the speeds, mass and forces for euc are so low that it doesn't particularly matter. I've found heat is still generated in my tyre and it has way more traction that i'll ever use on paved surfaces.
I have reached out to manufacturers for clarification and will hopefully make an euc specific tyre related video in the future.
Ta, Jonathan
Tire is on backwards.