Electric Unicycle TIRES
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- Cool EUC Tires
For 14” rim:
(Veteran Sherman, inMotion V11, Begode EXN/RS/EX/MSP/MSX/S20)
Michelin City Pro 80/90-14
Kenda K262 14-2,75
CST C186 14-2,75
Heidenau K66 80/90-14
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Voltride:
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Thumbnail by @monocat.1011
___________________________________________________________
Hi and welcome to my channel! I'm Adam Malicki (aka mr. Wrong Way) and I test small electric vehicles for a living. My job is to show you pros and cons of Electric Unicycles, Electric Scooters, eBikes and other Personal Electric Transport in a entertaining and unbiased way.
Alongside reviews and compilations, this is what you can expect to see on the channel:
- How To videos and tutorials
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- Demanding Riding - Hill Climbs, Speed Tests
- Occasionally Crashes
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Helmet: Shoei Glamster, O'Neal Backflip Muerta
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Wrist Guads: Oxelo Decathlon
Shoes: Merrell Vapor Glove, O'Neal MTB, Columbia Fairbanks (winter) - Sport
Lol, that old man is vibing on that bench at the end of the video
This is excellent info on tires. Tram tracking was something I did not consider, but glad I am aware of what causes it now
Excellent video, I was hesitant about changing my knobby to a Michelin City Pro. This video basically answered all of my questions
Awesome! Looking forward to your feedback!
4:34 Hey Sergey!
I thought train tracking referred to the wheel almost locking in to a groove in the surface? Like if there's a crack running down a path and the wheel steers along it
i thought train tracking is when the wheel feels like it’s stuck in a groove but it’s actually not.
some wheels are more resistant to turning and you have to pull on them to get them to lean and turn at speed
Tram tracking is a term that was keyed because your bicycle tire can slide in to the tram track grove / rail, and you can have a really bad time being forced to slide along the rail. 😱
So all similar tire effects have been called train / tram tracking.
I didnt realise people needed it explained to them 😂
I have ridden most of the EUC's available today. I find for my use case (Street/Paved trail) that I prefer a street tire but also agree that a street tire can be as good off road as a Knobby can be on the street. . The EXN comes with the CST 186 Knobby and I find it almost un rideable but the same tire was quite nice on the Master. I use the IRC NR77 street tire on my EXN and Master now. It provides great stability and handling at all speeds. Thanks for the explanations and keep the excellent content coming!
Thanks, very informative as usual. Probably the best EUC chanel for this kind of content. You really do know what you are talking about.
Have you ever noticed a difference in battery range between the knobby and the street tire?
I didn’t yet with the Sherman
Great new video! It's always nice to watch you, hear your voice, and see Warsaw. Keep up the great work!
I recently switched from the stock tire on my MSP, which has terrible train tracking, and was made of cheap chinese rubber, to a Michelin street pilot 2, the front tire option, with the center line, it is a multi compound tire, which makes it very versatile. It was quite an adjustment, and at first I didn't like it, but after about 300 miles, riding on 30psi to help get through the "break in period" (very necessary), I now see it as a major improvement in terms of over all control, grip, handling turns at both high speeds and it is extremely nimble at low speeds because the contact patch is so much smaller, also it does not train track at all. I see people go for the rear tire option, and its not as round of a profile, which can be more prone too train tracking, and its a single compound tire so not an all season tire. One thing to note, the moto tires, tend to have a lot more rubber, aka mass, so they tend to tax the torque of the motor a bit, slowing the bite of your braking and acceleration a little.
So you would recommend the moto tire for riding in snow and mud as well?
I'm super late to this party, but my MSP just got a pinch flat (alas, the ArmorDilloz did nothing) and I'm looking at buying a replacement tire. How long did that Michelin Street Pilot 2 last? My stock tire went about 2.5k miles before the pinch flat, and while the outer parts have a little tread left, I'd just as soon pop on a new tire if I'm tearing the whole thing apart.
What's the story with your pads on your Sherman!? Those look so comfortable.
Why do I have those strange feeling that I've already seen it before..
Great video as always :)
Thank you.your my favorite utuber for sure... You're so thorough and punctual.. and do so much more than anyone else. You're also the most professional eucer I've ever known.
Happy spring 🤙
Thanks for all the info dude..there's a rabbit hole here in euc! Thanks for all your research and dedication 🙏
Also important is the feet placement and the bodywork... but great Video as always ;-)
Also it helps to lean the innerside knee away from the wheel with the Z10 to turn even faster ;-)
Always interesting information to grow on , thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the list, Adam!
Great video, lots of really useful information 🤙
Really good guide with many useful well funded information :)
Great video!
Your train-tracking example, tire wanting to remain vertical to the ground example was very visual.
It make easy to understand why that happens :) as you can see the inclined surface push on the side of the tire, with the contact patch shifting a few mm on the knobby which also has the knobs deforming, but a few cm on the Z10 wide tire which also has a hard carcass hardly deforming.
Not all street tires are equal however. For instance the City Pro 80/90-14 and CST C-6004 2.75-14 on the Sherman 60mm rim have opposite behavior, with the C-6004 having no train-tracking at all with its width, profile and carcass hardness (in 6PLY) combination.
I guess that in some lucky cases, it's possible to have the shape and profile of the tire compensate almost exactly for the fact the contact patch is shifted to one side.
I also noticed that some tires are a less responsive to steering input than others which makes them more predictable and safer overall.
Good presentation 🤗
Good presentation!
BTW, the weight of the tire before buying it should be as low as possible ( it reduces the gyroscopic effect with high-speed turns)
The weight of the rim itself is a future item for manufacturers, as the motor needs a special model of the rim. ( The best would be carbon fiber..or magnesium)
When the tire gets wider, the wobble would usually increase, as also with low pressured tires is the case.( smaller contact-pach is better)
For motorbike riders these are standard issues :-)
lower pressure results in less wobbles on euc.
gyroscopic effect is not necessarily bad on euc because it increases stability.
lol "Monster segway" at the end.. you're crazy! Thanks for another interesting video. One thing you didnt cover which, especially for a beginner would be very handy to know.. is the slip angle... at what angle of turning will the wheel be most likely to skid out and dump you on the floor
that doesn't really happen on euc in my experience, other than in very low-traction conditions, you'll scrape pedal way before you run out of tire
@@thewinter_ Ah that's interesting to know! I suppose them it's more speed/sharp turn and/or slippery conditions then. Many thanks :)
You cant tilt the EUC that far without it just turning off on you(depending on the settings most EUC's cut out at 40 degree side tilt, some can go to 30 degrees on some, but that doesnt take into account the possible curve/angle of the road either)...which may be worse than just slipping at a high speed. Or grinding your pedals and wiping out from that. Also it can change on gravel and sand completely. Riding high on a banked curve(roadway/trail/skate park) will just turn the EUC off mid ride and send you flying.
@@MetatronsCube23 that makes a lot more sense.. many thanks
@@MetatronsCube23 Wow, really? So the euc just calculates the angle from gravity and doesn't account for centrifugal forces? This should be widely stated as it's a potential hazard for sure.
With some knobby tires the gyroscopic effect is very extreme. The euc won't lean and wants to stay upright. The knobs on the sides are big and push the euc upright.
Nice video good information.
Thanks.
Awesome 😎 thanks brother!!🙏
Well said.
Great content, thanks!
Really interesting, so much so I watched the whole thing twice.
You say that you have been riding for 3yrs as part of your experience level. I've followed your channel for the better part of 2yrs and I would have to say that a better characterization of your experience, maybe more difficult to quantify, would be the amount of time/miles that you spend on EUCs. I have ridden my EUC for 2yrs but I am not immersed in the culture even to a fraction of your situation, my EUC is not my primary transportation. Thanks for these videos, very insightful.
He has 1095 days worth of practice lol, the amount of hours is probably insane.
Your videos are fantastic. Forget my car. Unicycle here I come. And I drive a luxury vehicle lol
The initial momentary reaction for tram tracking steers towards the higher surface, resulting in the wheel being tilted outwards.
Well it's been a while :-). Good wideo. I would be glad to get phisical explanation of turning a bit more in depth. Some more visualisations or graphical content would also be nice. But other than that, great wideo. I can se a lot of effort in preparing scenario and scenery. Good job!
Thanks for the feedback! That’s a good point with the visualizations, I’ll try to include them or maybe ask an artist to do so. Just by myself they all look like 12 year old child drawing :D
Riding the MSP HT for the last 1.5 years, I have found that the best PSI in the stock tire was 10 to 14 psi. This was the only way I could ride the wheel comfortably for more than 20 minutes without my feet going into cramps that felt like fractures throughout my entire foot. Keep in mind that most of my riding was done on softer sand ~70% of the time, the other riding was harder packed dirt or a short ride on pavement. I am 170 pounds and never smashed my tire against the rim with any of my curb drops down to street or any of my collisions with tree roots on trail. I do believe you would need at least 20 psi in the tire if you plan to hit any sort of jumps or flying down large groups of stairs etc...
10 to 14 PSI????? Are you sure? Good!!
@@olgac9121 Very sure, I adjust it all the time and I have been racing cars for about 20 years so I know to watch psi.
@@NahBra_EUC interesting
@@allysally9992 Try going 3 or 4 psi lower and just see how it feels. You might like the slightly softer ride on a non-suspension wheel.
Hi Adam. Can you tell me where you got the foot straps for the dualtron man?
And thanks for covering the world of EUCs from an informed, safe, reasonable and considerate point of view. You've been a major source of guidance for me and I'm sure countless others.
Continental Contiscoot: Best tyre for both street and off-road is still ok
I ordered my new V12 HT and I wonder what tire it will be equiped. I have seen some interesting hybrid tire between offroad and road tire :).
Just upgraded to a better street tire for my EX. Huge difference in performance...
What did you get. I'm might be looking in a few months
@@kevinlove4930 czcams.com/video/O_Z3EYExzFo/video.html
I have a few hundred miles on my Sherman Max, and based upon your description the incredibly annoying sensation of it fighting me whenever I'm at high speed and trying to bank is the train/tram tracking. Never understood this before now (thank you)! Based upon your description though, this should be less pronounced with the stock Kenda tire right (than compared with a street tire like the Michelin Pro)? I would switch if it fixed this. Will have to try playing with pressure too. I keep it at 37 psi and I'm about 220 lbs geared up. Thanks for the vid. Lots to think about here!
Hi and good video. On your Sherman you have mounted the tire backwards. I did the same. As a front motor cycle tire it should be mounted the other way. Or do we have to think differently here and just mount the tire like the back tire of a motorcycle even if it’s wrong from manufacture?
Question ❓ you have reviewed and riding so many different types of EUC'S. What is you everyday EUC the you never think twice about picking up and just go out riding? Like the most convenient wheel for you.
Noice! Thinking about putting a street tire on Ex.N HT.
Any thoughts?
I'm 60kg my favorite tire pressure is 27 psi for my kingsong 16x or even lower,any more pressure and the bouncy feeling prevents me from going fast.
So cool
Hi, will you be moving with MonoCat to Canada as well?
And continue the channel from Canada?
at my age I almost feel embarrassed I laughed at your outro.
well played
Centripetal acceleration is our friend. Explaining it is difficult though.
Anyway, what are you going to do when you reach 50k? Any celebration in mind? I hope you're doing great, Adam!
Yes sir! I was thinking about celebrating buuuut I have sadly no idea what to do yet :/
@@mr_wrongway Do a skydive. Everyone should try it at least once!
@@wutruriding1355 Or fly a jet. I saw some for less than 2k for rent. Top speed 900km/h, flying under supervised settings. Would be awesome!
I'm thinking about getting the Sherman Max. Will the knobby tire last longer than the street tire? Thanks 🤙
what do you think the most stable tire for a inmotion v12 ht i mosty ride slick street bike paths i have found with wind and rain the stock tire to be dangerous
What do you think of Begode Master tire width for street riding?
What tire would you recommend for the V12??
1000km… I’m at 20.. almost there! Ok ok, 19
50k soon
wat pads are those? the red ones
Just got a Sherman V3 with knobby tire myself after learning to ride my Inmotion V10F for 1000km. Keeping both, one as my small wheel and one as my tank. I have my Sherman at 33psi. I find it tram lines much more than my V10F is there is a parallel lip or parallel dip/crest in the road that I didn't see or avoid. Do you have any suggestions on how to combat this tire pressure wise? I see you mentioned to decrease pressure but also youbrun at 35-40psi. Some said to increase psi to make tire patch smaller but that will make ride even bumpier. Any techniques you recommend to combat this? I'm usually carving and my legs are wrapped quite close to Sherman body since its so wide. Maybe should put legs futher outer edged of spiked pedals. Will my legs just get used to the extra weight shift and compensate with time? Its a bit unnerving when the wheel sucks you into the rut that you didnt see. The extra weight really pulls you over when it happens. I try to avoid lips and bad roads if possible. I'm 165lbs and dont ride faster than 30kmh or do jumps
@WrongWay Hi, I just read some speculation about innmotiom v13 coming soon. Seems it might be similar to commander, sherman max or s22 but with suspension. O.o have u heard something?
how do I get those same pads and pedals
Reviews of an EUC's turning characteristics are fundamentally reviews of a tire.
And pedal hight
Is there are midterane tire
Do you know a good tire for a KS18Xl ?
When will do do some of the revisions of the InMotion V12 & v12 HT and Veteran Sherman Max?
V12 HT and Sherman Max is on the way to me. Will take a while
@@mr_wrongway Thanks! Can't wait :) looking to buy one or the other but will wait to see your review first :) peace \,,,/
+1 for V12 HT.
How hard is it to learn how to ride a euc please let me know are they self leveling or not
Have you ever thought about getting a scooter?
I can’t get enough
Good to know, now I want a silent offroad tire.
Also, can someone recommend a good CAD program to make models for a 3D printer?
Yes, Fusion 360 is super for 3d printing. I use it every time. It's free for non commercial use and has everything while not being to complicated. Don't get tangled in tutorials though
@Le Fotografion
Thanks for the recommendation. I've got a decent amount of exoerience with AutoCAD and SketchUp but not with conversion. I'll look into it.
@@privileguan9127 ah AutoCAD, heard a lot of, but never tried. Fusion has a timeline where you can just skip back, change something, and then go forth again and everything is changed. Makes Prototyping and modeling for 3d print so easy
Fusion 360 has been excellent for me. Great control and seriously impressive features if you want to do a deep dive. LOTS of helpful videos for it on CZcams and has built-in training.
@@joshuajones6113 you mean fusion 360 from Autodesk? Or is there also a fusion 3d?
Would a 90/80R16 51S Michelin City Grip 2 Tyre fit the Inmotion V12? Would love to see that tyre reviewed
No, inMotion V12 has a 12 inch rim
@@mr_wrongway Gotway monster V3? EUC tire sizing is confusing :D
Hello. Some tire for Inmotion v12?
How about a all purpose tire
What about Heidenau K66 Snowtex? Anybody tried it yet?
You mention near the end of the video that the off-road (knobby) tire would be easier to turn at high speeds compared to a more rounded street tire. I find this confusing as my first instinct would be to say that it is the opposite. What exactly makes a knobby easier to turn at high speeds when its more flat than a street tire?
It’s easier to tilt the EUC, therefore it changes the direction easier. With the street tire you’d need to lean more and it might get into wobbles or force you back into the turn by riding over impurities on the road
I have a ht w/a street tire. I had a ht with a knobby tire. I'm thinking I should put the knobby on my ht. This wheel is lighter faster quicker and more sensitive to everything. I used to ride the hell outta my ht push it past tilt. The hs I'm scared to go over 25.
Am I blind? I don't see your list of recommendations for tires. Also do you mean I can put a wider tire on my InMotion V8F?
Sorry! I’ll add it! I forgot to put it into the description
I think it's impossible to put a tire wider than 2.125" on V8F (I own it too).
I’m new, and I think when I turn..I turn by pointing the wheel in the direction…like twisting..inteam of leaning to the side. Or is either ok? Maybe leaning is for sharper turns?
Twisting (yaw steering), is good for slower speeds, for both balance and turning. You'll find that by going just a bit faster, that your wheel will become stable and you won't have to focus on balance, at 6 to 8 mph or 10 to 13 kph on my V8F. Find a long straight where you can ride at stable speed for 20 seconds or more and try tilting the wheel side to side to see how it responds. Once you have an idea of the response, weave side to side, and if the area is large enough (like a parking lot), try large radius turns by tilting the wheel. Note that within reason, the tilt angle translates into turning radius, regardless of speed. At slow speeds, you barely lean at all, but tilt the wheel a lot as seen in the video above. At higher speeds, you lean more than you tilt the wheel, also shown in the video above (the one comparing 3 wheels and their tires). Learning to coordinate how much to lean your body versus how much to till will take a while, but eventually it will feel as natural as riding a bike. I did drills where I would lean then tilt the wheel inwards enough to return to back to vertical for balance (like dealing with a crosswind), or tilting inwards just enough to hold the lean angle for a coordinated turn.
@@rcgldr I can turn now but still a big radius, and my turn is still..what’s the word…squiggly? Not smooth basically (sorry, English is not my main language).
But yeah, I practice as much as I can, yesterday I went in the morning and afternoon. Inside the cemetery (it’s different from what the us has) there’s roads inside and very few cars, and there’s lots of turn so that’s where I practice. Outside of that there’s a 3 lane road (4 but trees and grass took over part of one lane) is where I go a bit faster. I can go 20-25 now.
But yeah, still working on turning and proper braking. I can stop, but I realize that I need to improve esp in cases where I neeed to stop quickly
@@Cons2911 - 20 kph is fast enough. See if you can find a large area to practice at, where large radius turns aren't an issue or a long and wide straight where you can practice the weave drills I mentioned: lean a bit, then tilt the wheel inwards to stop the lean, then lean a bit and tilt the wheel inwards enough to hold the lean. What you're calling squiggly is probably tilting too much or not enough for the amount of lean and having to make mid-turn corrections. Overtime, you will get better at estimating how much to lean your body and tilt the wheel depending on speed and radius. If the area is large enough, you can practice doing circles at slower speeds, like 12 to 15 kph, and slowing making them tighter. You'll probably find turning one way is easier than the other, and you should practice more on the direction that is more difficult. At first I was doing 10+ circles in a row, but started to get dizzy, so I reduced this to 5 or 6 circles at a time.
@@rcgldr that you, I really appreciate the detailed response. I’ll practice these, turning and carving. From what I remember my speed is slow when turning that sometimes I have to step off as I am losing balance, and being slow makes me move around more (as I turn) trying to keep it balanced. I’ll avoid doing too much straights for now and practice those
@@Cons2911 - carving is usually a combination of yaw and tilt steering, where the rider is mostly facing forwards. At this point you want to focus on just tilt steering. Riding on long straights at 15 to 20 kph is a good speed for doing the tilt steering drills I mentioned. Lean a tiny bit, tilt to correct, alternating left and right for a mild weave. Keep the lean angles very small at first, then gradually increase them as you improve. For slow speed tight turns, you barely lean at all, while the wheel is tilted a lot. Although I learned to tilt steer well at 10 kph or faster, slow speed tight turns was essentially learning a new skill for me.
wobbles = harmonic oscillation
glue the two ends of a shake weight to it and you'll never have a wobble again
Not sure if he's trolling or being genius.
I'm about to science this out one day.
You are partly right( it is oscillation, but they will happen at different rates, depending it can be gentle 5Htz rolling undulations, or 100+ Htz oscillation that make the euc eject your foot violently off the pedals), each leg is the source of wobbles on an EUC always. If one leg is more stiff(or loose) than the other, anything that jostles the EUC will start the wobbles immediately, and at any speed. Your legs, and waist are a front fork as you would find on any bike. Now ride that bike with a front fork that is stiff on one side and rubber and no axial attachment on the other. If you cant maintain a similar weight on each pedal, and even foot position OVER the axle you will always get wobbles. Hell, just locking your inner heels on the EUC to actually grip it will stop wobbles too because it lessens the amount of play your ankles have when you hit bumps. A shake weight would make it worse unless you glue them to your legs for better support. Adding a moving weight to the euc itself would just add in even more instability your legs can't handle, which is causing the wobbles already.most people can't really control their 100lb EUC that is way to big for them.
@@MetatronsCube23 Spot on. The first week on my V12 was hard, I could really feel that I can barely handle it at higher velocities. I consider this a good aspect as it makes my legs stronger.
Problem is that I can't get it here in Uganda...
49.8k 🙈😎⚡❤️
Goni mnie 🙈
@@ElektrycznyAdi 😎⚡❤️
Most of the info is actually wrong. Narrower tires tramtrack more, because they have less contact surface and therefore follow more easily the cracks on the road. Narrower rims and narrower tires turn more easily etc. Dude did no research whatsoever.