Just for accuarcy - brass is an alloy of, nominally, 70% copper and 30% zinc. Brass is stiffer than Copper; on the metal hardness chart, brass hardness ranges from 3 to 4, and the hardness of Copper ranges from 2.5 to 3. A higher percentage of zinc translates into more robust and ductile brass.
Mate the timing of this video for me is perfect I was so close to buying a rebuilt motor for my Prado as I’ve cracked a piston ( remap ) but now I’m convinced I’ll spend the money on a new long motor and I’m lucky to be able to do the work myself , keep up the good work guys
I’m quite sure that coating on the copper seats is Nickel. This is to stop copper from tarnishing and looking old. This is also commonly done on quality swag fittings for swaging wire. Use a centre punch (“centre pop”) to test hardness (using equal impact force from the hammer of course). When filing, file away cutting, then LIFT file, reapply and file away from you again. This is proper technique. Use file brush (wire brush is better than nothing) to clear groves of metal filings, then spray oil and store. Yeah, yeah, I know I’m pedantic. What do schools teach these days!!! FFS. Anyway, that installer has absolutely no idea. Hope the owner takes him to small claims court. That black carbonisation is sometimes called “black death”. The name explains it all. So glad Anthony is here to help future owners avoid this trap. Real Specialists are out there, but getting bloody hard to find. Anybody can do this job, but not anybody can do this job well with guaranteed workmanship. It I didn’t live so far away, Anthony would get all but oil change work. Tell you what though, if you watch these videos, learn the pitfalls, are good on the tools (use a Torque wrench and tighten to manufacturer specifications, then apart from saving a few dollars and knowing the job is done with care the best you can, it is immensely satisfying). Sorry if I’m preaching to the converted, but these comments are for the others.
A brand new copper seal is even softer , with time and heat it become hard, that is why you should not reuse it without a propper annelling process, it is safe and cheap just to change for new ones
So glad I went with genuine long engine rather than skimp on a reconditioned. For the extra few grand it's worth the piece of mind, your already spending big bucks especially when it's unexpected so why not spend the little extra and get genuine
Excellent video. Someone spent $1 instead of $2 and cost an engine. Just a quick shout for guys buying copper washers, check them with a magnet. Lot's of cheap shit from China is steel, coated in copper. For the Land Rover guys, the Ford Puma engine in the last Defenders has a problem with these seals. It will give a false impression of too much crankcase pressure but it is actual failed injector seals. Once again, an excellent video.
It’s getting pretty common for aftermarket supplies of copper injector washers to be just a copper plated brass. I’ve been caught out by a few, I just anneal them now, if they are brass they go a black tarnished colour, In which case they throw them in the bin or take them back to the supplier.
I keep hearing negativity on remaps or Tunes, I must be lucky, so far!.....From my experience..... I've done 60k/KM post remap/towing tune and have not had a problem since, including 25K/KM post major service of turbo, Full injector kit & MAP filter bypass as EGR turned off & Viscus fan overhaul and a throttle controller. I cannot believe & enjoy the torque the remap has opened up as I tow a 2.5T caravan (off road pop top) and max weight 2011 SR5 D/Cab 3.0lt weighed via a commercial weigh bridge regularly (GVM & GCM), and I have had no problem sitting at 100km/H on HWY (including hills) and 60km/H up very steep rangers such as the REX range in FNQ. Pulls hard towing up to 130KM/H overtaking (Driven B doubles for 40years) Fuel over 2000km was 16lt/100KM and 17.5lt/100km in a head wind. Snorkel, K&N air filter, large intercooler, EGR turned off & MAP filter delete, and obviously suspension upgrades Dobbo's remote res 2inch lift with 300kg pre sprung rear leaves. Fitted with winch bullbar (no winch) and a large fiberglass canopy with draws fridge slide ETC. $1400 remap for $500 because two of us purchased and early into Covid19 shutdown. Now I know why the Pardo goes hard! Food for thought, peeps :) You are right Anthony, why spend $120K + when you can mod a N70 and alike for under half that cost.
The reason why the pistons and small ends are the first components to suffer from oil starvation is due to the piston squirters having a check valve . They need (depending on manufacturer) a certain Oil pressure to overcome the spring tension on the ball. Once oil pressure drops at idle in this case there would be no oil squirting underneath the pistons. That’s why it pays to replace with new squirters and adjust the nozzles to hit the pistons where the manufacturer specifies. The carbon is also coming from incomplete burning during combustion as the compression has dropped . I replace injector washers at 50k intervals. For the sake of a 5 dollar washers and set of new pipes it’s cheap insurance .
The piston cooling jet is for cooling the underside of the piston. Not for lubrication. The check valve is there to keep oil from spraying at low oil psi, ie at idle Carbon build up in a diesel engine is not incomplete burn it is a by product of combustion or extending idle time. I have a diesel converted F250 with 300k miles on it, not once have I changed the injector washers. Basic maintenance every 5000 mi
@@bigbelconut not all conrods have an oil galley and they reply on squirters to fill the oil well. So carbon just magically appears does it. How do you thing solid carbon is formed. It’s incomplete burn. Not enough oxygen to fuel ratio. Carbon as a solid shouldn’t be part of the combustion process. As for extended idling that definitely doesn’t produce carbon as a solid. Going by you chemistry lesson, an internal combustion engine should clog up by weeks end. Your Fing doesn’t run denso injectors , yours is a poofterstroke then the injectors are fed diesel within the cylinder head and have a conical seat for sealing. As for your injection system you wouldn’t have a clue how HPOP fuel injection system works.
@@tba3900 also what "pipes" are you replacing every 50,000 miles and replacing the injector washers every 50,000 miles is not cheap insurance its risky at best and at worst. the new washer doesn't seat properly and you endup with an engine like the one in the video. yes carbon does magically appear. you ever notice when you do an oil change on a diesel engine it goes in that nice brand new golden color. and then after about 5 seconds of run time its solid black. thats from carbon residue from combustion.............. also look at the intake manifold of any EGR equipped diesel. that comes from the exhaust and is introduced into the intake. if its got even 10,000 miles on it. there will be almost a inch thick layer of Carbon buildup. and compression doesn't "drop" in a diesel engine at idle. if a diesel engine has half decent compression it will still be anywhere between 16.7:1 - 22:1 compression ratio. even if it is worn. but if it still works it has atleast that much and only goes up as boost increases. also diesel does not equal gas engines. diesel are whats called Compression ignition. so they inheriently ALWAYS produce carbon soot. as a solid. gasoline engines make almost none comparativly. the amount of soot and carbon buildup a diesel engine makes in 1,000 miles is about the same as that of a gasoline engine after 300,000 miles. and i really don't see how in your eyes carbon buildup can exsist in any other form. its certainly not going to go from a superheated gas and solidify. then where does it come from obviously the compression ignition process. the reason why diesel engines do not "clog up by weeks end" is due to this thing that became common place about 100 years ago. an oil filter. engine oil acts as a cleaner it absorbs carbon particulate throught the entire system. and then it is passed through a filter. those oil squirters are mainly for Cooling the underside of the pistons. out of the dozens of diffrent types of diesel engines i've worked on they all have oil squirters for cooling the underside of the piston. every one i've seen where an oil squirter clogged. the piston cracked or melted. because of it. going back to you mentioning "incomplete burn" this is called fuel knock. when you have the improper amount of fuel and more importantly at the wrong time. this means something is wrong with the tuning or the injector is bad. i can assure you the injectors on any diesel engine do not have a "conical seat" its pretty hard to round a copper washer and mate those 2 types of surfaces. and i can assure you all the powersrokes and cummins and detroit diesel engines i've worked on. the base of the injectors are flat for a flat copper washer. Denso injectors or not. diesel engines all have one thing in common. High pressure injectors sealed with a copper washer. the only time the washers need to be changed is if the injector is removed. or changed. or if they melt. but they only melt if the injector is overfueling and dumping fuel. as for your comment on HPOP fuel injection system. not quite sure what you mean by that. you might mean a Hydraulic Electronic Unit Injection system. there is no Functional diffrence between HEUI system, or Common rail. the end effect is the same. a HEUI system the fuel pressure required for a proper spray pattern is produced in the injector. where a Common rail system it is produced by a high pressure fuel pump. generating on the order of 20,000+ PSI of fuel pressure
@@tba3900 also i don't know what this guys deal is with Standard sized pistons. 0:28 unless the engine was overbored and the pistons are undersized. thats the only time it should be a problem or unless the factory pistons are garbage.
On the subject of those injector washer/seals here in the uk the ford Focus/Connect engine (Peugeot 1.5 T1gr) have those injector seals failing a lot , i had them fail on my connect after cleaning all the blowby i examind the washer as you did they alll had contact points here & there not a full contact surface , got a new set of washers & i tested one to see how hard they were infact so hard i doubt they seal 100% when torqued down , so i annealed them (hot-quench) now they are softer like they were in the Perkins headsets , will see how long these seals last before any blowby comes back ...................
Just replaced my injectors in a ZD30 CR GU Patrol. Went genuine Bosch injectors and glad I used the genuine washers and seals. I'd imagine the GU could suffer a similar problem if you went and used a non copper washer. The Nissan documentation also says to replace the O rings and washer each time they are removed. These engineers at Nissan and Toyota know their stuff. All to save a few dollars.
I feel for this owner and even more so in the economic times we live in ATM. I'm happy to help out someone in this situation....Anthony are you considering or would you mind overseeing a help fund for this person as I would be happy to contribute to a new donk?
Thanks for your consideration but we’re not going to set up a separate help fund to what we already have many times we have made videos and posts telling people about the Cracked Piston fund just like we do about how to prevent problems like this only use gnu Genuine Injector Kit be careful who you let work on your vehicle and only use a brand new engine if it needs repairs people can choose to listen or not the people that are listening make contributions and if Something Happens to their engine we have funds available to help out so I’m not sure how this one would work. If you would like to make a contribution you can tone contact me the same way I mention in text messages and anybody else that would like to also and you can contribute to the Cracked Piston fund and if the contributions were directed directly to this engine then I will forward that to the victim because he is a victim and should take action against the poor workmanship and end up with a full refund like always we offer paying the V cat fees. It’s all part of checking and watching our playlists which I keep being on about but lots of people obviously don’t do it you can lead to water but you can’t make them drink I have to give it up somewhere I’m doing the best I can hope you understand
3 mates with rebuilt 1kd from different local engine builders have had them blow up. I will never get mine rebuilt. Toyota only. Admittedly one of the prados that blew it had a tune.
If a rebuild is done properly it should be equivalent to a brand new engine. I think the issue could moreso be a lack of skill from the rebuilder or the necessary effort and time required to rebuild an engine properly. They are probably trying to get it done quick and make a profit rather than doing it right. There are many measurements that need to be accurate to a tenth of a thou and quite alot of specialised equipment to do it
YOur explaination is all wrong. That's pre ignition damage on the one cylinder, the piston melted due to getting too hot. Caused by a worn out leaking injector. Nothing to do with lubrication but heat.
Is this a VM Motori 2.8L engine? Looks very similar to the engine I rebuilt for my US Spec Jeep Liberty CRD. TStat looks a bit different, but everything else looks about the same.
Does this apply to a perkins diesel? Circa 1985-90? Just rebuilt one and had to use all aftermarket parts. Pistons, rings, bottom end etc etc. Did get the injectors reconditioned but after watching this clip, not sure what the washers were made from. Seeing this is an old Backhoe motor, do you think I need to investigate? Regards
Make sure the under piston skirt spray nozzles are clean & no sluge buildup in the oil gallerys seen piston damage like in the vid' because piston skirt not getting oil spray especially turbo engines................
@@cjwest9094doesn't matter if it's remapped Toyota released there investigation indicating that heavy towing at high ambient temperatures will cause crack pistons. EGR gauge be your most important . Toyota needs to be sued
Does anyone know - Is the only correct way to source a 'new engine' - to go direct to Toyota? In the UK - would they sell both a short & long engine? I understand that there's no way to order a literally whole new engine (in the UK)?
To get a standard block & pistons could maybe sourced from a main dealer , that said they may not supply to end user you the public it's not uncommon in the trade , but a proper crank & rebore is as good as it gets if built right , the reputation of the rebuilders is what you go on ...
This is prime example why every part on my mercedes diesel comes from mercedes or a supplier who supplied mercedes. You get exactly what you pay for. A have seen mercedes diesel with 500k miles with proper parts and maintenance run circles around a poorly maintained model. Do it right the first time and be done.
Not a common problem with a 4JJ1, but at 370k, your injectors will more than likely be worn and need replacing. The 4JJ1 pistons have a higher tolerance to poor injectors but I wouldn’t leave it too long before getting them checked - especially if you tow heavy loads.
Do you recon rebuilding the 1KD is a viable option? (providing the engine reconditioner uses genuine parts). Damn I missed out on $100, who would of thought! 😆
The Denso injectors should be the original ones, so the injectors you are showing are rebuild aftermarked ones..... the reason this is happening is falulty rings that let the injectors leak......
Question. So you say the washers caused it? 4 aftremarket washers yet one piston burned. lol. So here is why i say that the washer will cause blow by hell yes. is it right hell no. the cause of this piston is injector failure. Over fuel on that piston EGTs ran away. costomer kept on driving the motor with a misfire.
Metallurgist would use the term alloy to describe the chemical bond between metallic elements. Diesel mechanical video but hey there is materials science and chemistry as well.
@@aussiefarmer8741you haven't missed anything. This guy's a twat. Std. Is standard bore. They aren't on oem pistons. But wiseco, ProX, vortex all mark their pistons with STD then thr bore size. Aftermarket pistons are better than oem
Makes electric vehicles look better and better hay. Not having a go at you, but there is to many cowboys in the mechanical industry these days doing dodgy work, not willing and ignoring manufacturers procedures. Not just automotive. Marine, motor cycles, even mowers. Near impossible to get a genuine propper job done. Sad really. And yes, being a mechanic near 4 decades I have seen and worked with many clowns.
Service of EVs is gonna be even worse, lots of electrical high voltage parts, lots of sensitive electronics plus software. None of the mechanics will be good at any of those area. Do your research into Tesla and other EV repairs, its a nightmare. Ev will be disposable like iphones just buy new EV every 2 years
Agree.........However electric vehicles are a long way off being better IMO or even considering as a viable trade / (even less as a replacement) for a N70 3.0lt and alike! Anthony has been good enough to pass on his recommended service shops around most of Australia, so I suggest considering utilising them. I did in Brisbane, (K&L Diesel Performance at Rocklea, built the fastest 3.0lt N70 in the world) and was very happy with them........New Turbo, Injector full kit (with fuel lines ECT) amongst more minor mods for a total of $6K at 200,010KM now done 25000Km post major service. Another great educational video, all-be-it with a sad ending.
From your comment I can tell you would not qualify From your comment you don’t know me very well at all. I guarantee you no workers get looked after better than my assistant that will be here any day I ask him to that gets paid more than any other vehicle technician that gets taken out to lunch to a restaurant that starts and finishes whenever it suits him like I said you’ve got no idea and you wouldn’t qualify if you would like to argue the point feel free to come and pay us a visit and you can discuss it with him I’m sure he would be happy to provide you the information and watch you apologize
Just for accuarcy - brass is an alloy of, nominally, 70% copper and 30% zinc. Brass is stiffer than Copper; on the metal hardness chart, brass hardness ranges from 3 to 4, and the hardness of Copper ranges from 2.5 to 3. A higher percentage of zinc translates into more robust and ductile brass.
I knew I went wrong there somewhere and I had a feeling zinc was the one that I was looking for
Top info, cheers
The only thing that needed to be conveyed here is that copper is softer than brass and hence will seal better.
@@Fourby4Diesel one of thoes injectors is different from the rest it has a grey plastic top
Copper washers have to be annealed and cleaned before use. The seat has to be undamaged and totally clean.
Stay away from the Std's or you will loose your rings. 😂😂😂 Nice video thanks
Thanks for taking all these efforts to show this us mate.
Great information once again Anthony, thanks, much appreciated.
Mate the timing of this video for me is perfect I was so close to buying a rebuilt motor for my Prado as I’ve cracked a piston ( remap ) but now I’m convinced I’ll spend the money on a new long motor and I’m lucky to be able to do the work myself , keep up the good work guys
I’m quite sure that coating on the copper seats is Nickel.
This is to stop copper from tarnishing and looking old.
This is also commonly done on quality swag fittings for swaging wire.
Use a centre punch (“centre pop”) to test hardness (using equal impact force from the hammer of course).
When filing, file away cutting, then LIFT file, reapply and file away from you again. This is proper technique. Use file brush (wire brush is better than nothing) to clear groves of metal filings, then spray oil and store.
Yeah, yeah, I know I’m pedantic.
What do schools teach these days!!! FFS.
Anyway, that installer has absolutely no idea.
Hope the owner takes him to small claims court.
That black carbonisation is sometimes called “black death”. The name explains it all.
So glad Anthony is here to help future owners avoid this trap.
Real Specialists are out there, but getting bloody hard to find.
Anybody can do this job, but not anybody can do this job well with guaranteed workmanship.
It I didn’t live so far away, Anthony would get all but oil change work.
Tell you what though, if you watch these videos, learn the pitfalls, are good on the tools (use a Torque wrench and tighten to manufacturer specifications, then apart from saving a few dollars and knowing the job is done with care the best you can, it is immensely satisfying).
Sorry if I’m preaching to the converted, but these comments are for the others.
I have seen those copper washers tinned with a film of lead/zinc ............
A brand new copper seal is even softer , with time and heat it become hard, that is why you should not reuse it without a propper annelling process, it is safe and cheap just to change for new ones
So glad I went with genuine long engine rather than skimp on a reconditioned. For the extra few grand it's worth the piece of mind, your already spending big bucks especially when it's unexpected so why not spend the little extra and get genuine
BTW - love your information and am now an avid DIYer on my 120. 👍👍
Excellent video.
Someone spent $1 instead of $2 and cost an engine.
Just a quick shout for guys buying copper washers, check them with a magnet. Lot's of cheap shit from China is steel, coated in copper.
For the Land Rover guys, the Ford Puma engine in the last Defenders has a problem with these seals. It will give a false impression of too much crankcase pressure but it is actual failed injector seals.
Once again, an excellent video.
It’s getting pretty common for aftermarket supplies of copper injector washers to be just a copper plated brass. I’ve been caught out by a few, I just anneal them now, if they are brass they go a black tarnished colour, In which case they throw them in the bin or take them back to the supplier.
I have reused successfully, re-annealed copper injector washers in my diesel fourby, I have used aluminium washers but they can't be reused.
I keep hearing negativity on remaps or Tunes, I must be lucky, so far!.....From my experience..... I've done 60k/KM post remap/towing tune and have not had a problem since, including 25K/KM post major service of turbo, Full injector kit & MAP filter bypass as EGR turned off & Viscus fan overhaul and a throttle controller. I cannot believe & enjoy the torque the remap has opened up as I tow a 2.5T caravan (off road pop top) and max weight 2011 SR5 D/Cab 3.0lt weighed via a commercial weigh bridge regularly (GVM & GCM), and I have had no problem sitting at 100km/H on HWY (including hills) and 60km/H up very steep rangers such as the REX range in FNQ. Pulls hard towing up to 130KM/H overtaking (Driven B doubles for 40years) Fuel over 2000km was 16lt/100KM and 17.5lt/100km in a head wind. Snorkel, K&N air filter, large intercooler, EGR turned off & MAP filter delete, and obviously suspension upgrades Dobbo's remote res 2inch lift with 300kg pre sprung rear leaves. Fitted with winch bullbar (no winch) and a large fiberglass canopy with draws fridge slide ETC. $1400 remap for $500 because two of us purchased and early into Covid19 shutdown. Now I know why the Pardo goes hard! Food for thought, peeps :) You are right Anthony, why spend $120K + when you can mod a N70 and alike for under half that cost.
One of the bits in the cup looks like the end of a shaviv deburing tool.
Why does 3 of the injectors look like they have a hexagonal shape down near the nozzle/tip and one looks round???
Indeed, the most important.
Cheers 🍻
Copper will always show a reddish pink tint ... brass stays whitish yellow
The reason why the pistons and small ends are the first components to suffer from oil starvation is due to the piston squirters having a check valve . They need (depending on manufacturer) a certain Oil pressure to overcome the spring tension on the ball. Once oil pressure drops at idle in this case there would be no oil squirting underneath the pistons. That’s why it pays to replace with new squirters and adjust the nozzles to hit the pistons where the manufacturer specifies. The carbon is also coming from incomplete burning during combustion as the compression has dropped . I replace injector washers at 50k intervals. For the sake of a 5 dollar washers and set of new pipes it’s cheap insurance .
The piston cooling jet is for cooling the underside of the piston. Not for lubrication. The check valve is there to keep oil from spraying at low oil psi, ie at idle
Carbon build up in a diesel engine is not incomplete burn it is a by product of combustion or extending idle time.
I have a diesel converted F250 with 300k miles on it, not once have I changed the injector washers. Basic maintenance every 5000 mi
@@bigbelconut not all conrods have an oil galley and they reply on squirters to fill the oil well. So carbon just magically appears does it. How do you thing solid carbon is formed. It’s incomplete burn. Not enough oxygen to fuel ratio. Carbon as a solid shouldn’t be part of the combustion process. As for extended idling that definitely doesn’t produce carbon as a solid. Going by you chemistry lesson, an internal combustion engine should clog up by weeks end. Your Fing doesn’t run denso injectors , yours is a poofterstroke then the injectors are fed diesel within the cylinder head and have a conical seat for sealing. As for your injection system you wouldn’t have a clue how HPOP fuel injection system works.
@@tba3900
also what "pipes" are you replacing every 50,000 miles and replacing the injector washers every 50,000 miles is not cheap insurance its risky at best and at worst. the new washer doesn't seat properly and you endup with an engine like the one in the video.
yes carbon does magically appear. you ever notice when you do an oil change on a diesel engine it goes in that nice brand new golden color. and then after about 5 seconds of run time its solid black. thats from carbon residue from combustion.............. also look at the intake manifold of any EGR equipped diesel. that comes from the exhaust and is introduced into the intake. if its got even 10,000 miles on it. there will be almost a inch thick layer of Carbon buildup. and compression doesn't "drop" in a diesel engine at idle. if a diesel engine has half decent compression it will still be anywhere between 16.7:1 - 22:1 compression ratio. even if it is worn. but if it still works it has atleast that much and only goes up as boost increases.
also diesel does not equal gas engines. diesel are whats called Compression ignition. so they inheriently ALWAYS produce carbon soot. as a solid. gasoline engines make almost none comparativly. the amount of soot and carbon buildup a diesel engine makes in 1,000 miles is about the same as that of a gasoline engine after 300,000 miles. and i really don't see how in your eyes carbon buildup can exsist in any other form. its certainly not going to go from a superheated gas and solidify. then where does it come from obviously the compression ignition process.
the reason why diesel engines do not "clog up by weeks end" is due to this thing that became common place about 100 years ago. an oil filter. engine oil acts as a cleaner it absorbs carbon particulate throught the entire system. and then it is passed through a filter.
those oil squirters are mainly for Cooling the underside of the pistons. out of the dozens of diffrent types of diesel engines i've worked on they all have oil squirters for cooling the underside of the piston. every one i've seen where an oil squirter clogged. the piston cracked or melted. because of it.
going back to you mentioning "incomplete burn" this is called fuel knock. when you have the improper amount of fuel and more importantly at the wrong time. this means something is wrong with the tuning or the injector is bad.
i can assure you the injectors on any diesel engine do not have a "conical seat" its pretty hard to round a copper washer and mate those 2 types of surfaces. and i can assure you all the powersrokes and cummins and detroit diesel engines i've worked on. the base of the injectors are flat for a flat copper washer.
Denso injectors or not. diesel engines all have one thing in common. High pressure injectors sealed with a copper washer. the only time the washers need to be changed is if the injector is removed. or changed. or if they melt. but they only melt if the injector is overfueling and dumping fuel.
as for your comment on HPOP fuel injection system. not quite sure what you mean by that. you might mean a Hydraulic Electronic Unit Injection system. there is no Functional diffrence between HEUI system, or Common rail. the end effect is the same. a HEUI system the fuel pressure required for a proper spray pattern is produced in the injector. where a Common rail system it is produced by a high pressure fuel pump. generating on the order of 20,000+ PSI of fuel pressure
@@tba3900 also i don't know what this guys deal is with Standard sized pistons. 0:28 unless the engine was overbored and the pistons are undersized. thats the only time it should be a problem or unless the factory pistons are garbage.
So, did they use brass washers instead of copper?
On the subject of those injector washer/seals here in the uk the ford Focus/Connect engine (Peugeot 1.5 T1gr) have those injector seals failing a lot , i had them fail on my connect after cleaning all the blowby i examind the washer as you did they alll had contact points here & there not a full contact surface , got a new set of washers & i tested one to see how hard they were infact so hard i doubt they seal 100% when torqued down , so i annealed them (hot-quench) now they are softer like they were in the Perkins headsets , will see how long these seals last before any blowby comes back ...................
Just replaced my injectors in a ZD30 CR GU Patrol. Went genuine Bosch injectors and glad I used the genuine washers and seals. I'd imagine the GU could suffer a similar problem if you went and used a non copper washer. The Nissan documentation also says to replace the O rings and washer each time they are removed. These engineers at Nissan and Toyota know their stuff. All to save a few dollars.
I feel for this owner and even more so in the economic times we live in ATM. I'm happy to help out someone in this situation....Anthony are you considering or would you mind overseeing a help fund for this person as I would be happy to contribute to a new donk?
Thanks for your consideration but we’re not going to set up a separate help fund to what we already have many times we have made videos and posts telling people about the Cracked Piston fund just like we do about how to prevent problems like this only use gnu Genuine Injector Kit be careful who you let work on your vehicle and only use a brand new engine if it needs repairs people can choose to listen or not the people that are listening make contributions and if Something Happens to their engine we have funds available to help out so I’m not sure how this one would work.
If you would like to make a contribution you can tone contact me the same way I mention in text messages and anybody else that would like to also and you can contribute to the Cracked Piston fund and if the contributions were directed directly to this engine then I will forward that to the victim because he is a victim and should take action against the poor workmanship and end up with a full refund like always we offer paying the V cat fees. It’s all part of checking and watching our playlists which I keep being on about but lots of people obviously don’t do it you can lead to water but you can’t make them drink I have to give it up somewhere I’m doing the best I can hope you understand
Help me please!! I need injectors lol
Thanks to you I clean my sump and the old D4D over 500000 klms and same injectors
Did you ever change the injector seats and what milage/year do you have cheers if you answer
3 mates with rebuilt 1kd from different local engine builders have had them blow up. I will never get mine rebuilt. Toyota only. Admittedly one of the prados that blew it had a tune.
If a rebuild is done properly it should be equivalent to a brand new engine. I think the issue could moreso be a lack of skill from the rebuilder or the necessary effort and time required to rebuild an engine properly. They are probably trying to get it done quick and make a profit rather than doing it right. There are many measurements that need to be accurate to a tenth of a thou and quite alot of specialised equipment to do it
Would you rather overhaul an engine or replace it with an import engine from Japan?
I'm in the uk are aftermarket injectors come with copper washers why would they even supply brass washers how is it ment to squash that
Im new to your channel. what is your mechanic shop called and where is it located?
Grab the center punch that will give a consistent strike force to the washers then all you need to show is the dent.
Ha! Just read this AFTER I placed my comment…exactly. Even the edge of a nail (pin punch) would do for the demonstration of material softness.
Measure the thickness of each type of washer after its been torqued down
Remapped & not changing injectiors & blocked pick ups
Someone took the cheapest quote………. Doesn’t excuse shitty workmanship, but the lower the price, the more skeptical you should be.
YOur explaination is all wrong. That's pre ignition damage on the one cylinder, the piston melted due to getting too hot. Caused by a worn out leaking injector. Nothing to do with lubrication but heat.
Is this a VM Motori 2.8L engine? Looks very similar to the engine I rebuilt for my US Spec Jeep Liberty CRD. TStat looks a bit different, but everything else looks about the same.
U should have put both rings in the vice at once
Does this apply to a perkins diesel? Circa 1985-90? Just rebuilt one and had to use all aftermarket parts. Pistons, rings, bottom end etc etc. Did get the injectors reconditioned but after watching this clip, not sure what the washers were made from. Seeing this is an old Backhoe motor, do you think I need to investigate? Regards
Make sure the under piston skirt spray nozzles are clean & no sluge buildup in the oil gallerys seen piston damage like in the vid' because piston skirt not getting oil spray especially turbo engines................
Buda bing.
Just blew up my 2008 Prado.
Sad times 😢
Miles? Chipped? Sorry to hear that
@@cjwest9094doesn't matter if it's remapped Toyota released there investigation indicating that heavy towing at high ambient temperatures will cause crack pistons. EGR gauge be your most important . Toyota needs to be sued
Dont want to sound like the devils advocate there is no oil gallery above the 'O' ring @ 13:25 .....
Watevs
@@Fourby4Diesel : get your facts right Bud'
Some one didn't add enough gap to there ring packs.
Does anyone know - Is the only correct way to source a 'new engine' - to go direct to Toyota? In the UK - would they sell both a short & long engine? I understand that there's no way to order a literally whole new engine (in the UK)?
To get a standard block & pistons could maybe sourced from a main dealer , that said they may not supply to end user you the public it's not uncommon in the trade , but a proper crank & rebore is as good as it gets if built right , the reputation of the rebuilders is what you go on ...
This is prime example why every part on my mercedes diesel comes from mercedes or a supplier who supplied mercedes. You get exactly what you pay for. A have seen mercedes diesel with 500k miles with proper parts and maintenance run circles around a poorly maintained model.
Do it right the first time and be done.
Its called highway robbery😳
Do the 4jj1 engines suffer from these problems as well? I have 370ks on original injectors
Not a common problem with a 4JJ1, but at 370k, your injectors will more than likely be worn and need replacing. The 4JJ1 pistons have a higher tolerance to poor injectors but I wouldn’t leave it too long before getting them checked - especially if you tow heavy loads.
Ring gap incorrect or over tuned.
Piston crown damage like that is fuel issue looks like a wrecker rip off with a an overfuel prob
that's really nasty in there, kaput.
Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc
Do you recon rebuilding the 1KD is a viable option? (providing the engine reconditioner uses genuine parts). Damn I missed out on $100, who would of thought! 😆
The information is in the videos
Can you advise on how many km we are seeing out of GUN126R 2.8L engines etc. in the market for a second hand hilux. I know of bad timing chain etc.
1kdftv
GUN is a 3 litre
use copper washers , otherwise fuel mixes with oil.
I just saved you 16 minutes.
Brass is composed of copper and zinc.
It depends on who’s rebuilding the engine.
Why not 100 prosent copper?. two materials always will act like a anode and catode.
Did the engine builder provide a refund?
Wow 😢
Brass is composed of copper and zinc, whereas bronze is made up of copper and tin.
See red goo..... run
At what point dose the oil light come on?
Would a $100 oil gage given the owner a chance to save that motor?
Nope
The Denso injectors should be the original ones, so the injectors you are showing are rebuild aftermarked ones..... the reason this is happening is falulty rings that let the injectors leak......
🤣
Question. So you say the washers caused it? 4 aftremarket washers yet one piston burned. lol. So here is why i say that the washer will cause blow by hell yes. is it right hell no. the cause of this piston is injector failure. Over fuel on that piston EGTs ran away. costomer kept on driving the motor with a misfire.
I lap my valves tonite in my kohler 26hp motor , maybe they should lap the injectors ? 😂
I'm more of a gas engine cobbler than diesel , can you tell ?
This is a normal toyota recall from a while back for these washers
Wouldn’t the oil light have come on.
Someone installed a used junk yard 40,000. Mi engine and called it rebuilt.
Alloy of copper and zinc
Metallurgist would use the term alloy to describe the chemical bond between metallic elements. Diesel mechanical video but hey there is materials science and chemistry as well.
👍😎🇦🇺🍻
Stupid me I thought perhaps it isn't clickbait.
By all means stay away from standard bore and pistons
Especially if they say STD on them because Genuine ones done I hate going
@@Fourby4Diesel I'm new to the channel, whats up with std pistons? I thought that was just the size measurement ? What have I missed?
@@aussiefarmer8741 My thoughts exactly.
@@aussiefarmer8741you haven't missed anything. This guy's a twat. Std. Is standard bore. They aren't on oem pistons. But wiseco, ProX, vortex all mark their pistons with STD then thr bore size. Aftermarket pistons are better than oem
Makes electric vehicles look better and better hay.
Not having a go at you, but there is to many cowboys in the mechanical industry these days doing dodgy work, not willing and ignoring manufacturers procedures.
Not just automotive.
Marine, motor cycles, even mowers.
Near impossible to get a genuine propper job done.
Sad really.
And yes, being a mechanic near 4 decades I have seen and worked with many clowns.
That's why using the internet as a tool to find reviews of the engine builder, asking on a forum who is good to go with
Service of EVs is gonna be even worse, lots of electrical high voltage parts, lots of sensitive electronics plus software. None of the mechanics will be good at any of those area. Do your research into Tesla and other EV repairs, its a nightmare. Ev will be disposable like iphones just buy new EV every 2 years
Agree.........However electric vehicles are a long way off being better IMO or even considering as a viable trade / (even less as a replacement) for a N70 3.0lt and alike! Anthony has been good enough to pass on his recommended service shops around most of Australia, so I suggest considering utilising them. I did in Brisbane, (K&L Diesel Performance at Rocklea, built the fastest 3.0lt N70 in the world) and was very happy with them........New Turbo, Injector full kit (with fuel lines ECT) amongst more minor mods for a total of $6K at 200,010KM now done 25000Km post major service. Another great educational video, all-be-it with a sad ending.
Yeah but it’s simirur
Where TF do you buy brand new genuine engines? 😂
Ten minutes talking about injector washers material come on mate 😂
But probably the best video explanation I have seen ... I'm 57 mate ... So that makes you top kiddy for diesel 🎉
Rebuilt engine with a standard bore size? Yah right!
I would hate to be this guys assistant, just from how he talks to them in the video tells you how he treats them in general.....
From your comment I can tell you would not qualify
From your comment you don’t know me very well at all.
I guarantee you no workers get looked after better than my assistant that will be here any day I ask him to that gets paid more than any other vehicle technician that gets taken out to lunch to a restaurant that starts and finishes whenever it suits him like I said you’ve got no idea and you wouldn’t qualify if you would like to argue the point feel free to come and pay us a visit and you can discuss it with him I’m sure he would be happy to provide you the information and watch you apologize
Not good
Generally an easy test is brass is not magnetic 🧲
Neither is copper....
Do you consider those engines to be good?
Zinc is not attracted to magnet either
Yes, just use a steel washer.