Street or Track Full Floating 9" Rear End System
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- čas přidán 19. 05. 2012
- Watch as we install the hub and rotor assembly onto our Full Floating System. You'll be able to see how simple the system is to install and maintain as well as get a peek at just how cool it is!
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
awesome video thank you
one small thing about the brake caliper , dont leave them hanging by the ruer brakeline , the innerline stretches and could clog the line up having the brake fail , use some weldingrod bend in an S and hang it from the spring
GOOD stuff!! Street or Track ROCKS! Looks like a lot of time went into designing this system.
He is being very "general" in his assembly. Depending on what you are using it in there are usually buttons screwed into the axle on the rear gear side and when used with the end plates so the 2 axles only move a limited amount. Our dirt car is 1/32" over all. Both axles need inner plugs to keep gear lube from going down the hollow axle to the outer ends. Both outer bearings are removed every 3 races and serviced. We also use inner seals.
If the axles are solid, they can just machine a crown into the ends of the axles, leave 1/16" of slop in the system, and toss them in. Look at an Eaton TrueTrac for a 10-bolt. They have that round disc that goes in there to keep the c-clips engaged. Now, you'd just leave the assembly as-is and put the axles in.
I lube my wheel stud threads as well......It helps alot.
Thank you!!!!
It seems there is not much grease lubing the bearings. On a non-floating Ford 9 in., I guess the hypoid oil constantly lubes the bearing, especially on a slope. But then again, the weight is off the axle, like you said.
what would be price for 99 camaro and where do you buy this
What size studs and bolt circle diameter?
Is the the three link coilover for the rear a complete bolt on system?
Id like a 11.5 FF for my 06 Chevrolet 1500 with 6 lugs
Would it be possible to get a second caliper mounting bracket welded to the housing on the opposite side of the housing? That way, you can run a dual caliper setup?
You could but generally you don't need that much breaking on the rear.
@@robert5 Yea, the second would be strictly for a hydraulic E brake. Ended up passing on that plan though.
Make the hub nut from steel or stainless i reckon
what keeps the axle shafts from sliding back and forth inside the housing?
There is a bolt on one axle in the center that you adjust so both axles are almost the same width from axle cover to axle cover
The differential. Look at an Eaton Truetrac for a 10-bolt GM. They have a solid disc inside to keep the c-clips engaged. When you ditch the C-clips and go floater, the axles are in contact with that disc, and then the cap in the end of the assembly. I wish cars came this way from the factory.
All this work and yet the weakest link is still an issue. What might that be you say ,the universal joint. That being said , this without a doubt a well thought out differential design.
what universal joint? this is a rear axle.
@@dobrzpe what do you think turns the yoke for the pinion
@@Greenerplaces well, then by your logic: the weakest point is bad gas. your "weak link u-joint" is turned by the driveshaft, rotated by the transmission, driven by the engine, *which* needs non-contaminated gas to run. joking aside: so, what's the fix/replacement/upgrade for the u-joint at the pinion?
can I get your email address? how can I get in contact with you. I'm building a 66 mustang also.
Didn't set end play on axle. He will figure it out when that comes shooting out
You have to space the axels using a spool other wise they will grind togather and put metal into your bearings and gears quick death to them.
I use button head aliens and stainless washers
@@brentfrederick6576 No. They'll be fine. They'll be against the pieces inside the differential that would otherwise separate the axles to keep a C-clip assembly engaged. Another alternative is to use axles with crowns machined into the ends and leave a bit of slop in the system.