Good job !! Food for thought! Here are some of my mods to my jig I made , after spending about 500 for my jig from a name brand chassis company I sold it after doing about 20 rear ends and made my own , I went to a hydraulic cylinder repair shop and bought a 60” 4130 chomoly chrome plated shaft 1 5/8” diameter and made my outside pucks with a step so I was able to put a digital level/inclinometer on the pucks to make sure ends are clocked the same side to side and I threaded the bolt holes to be able to keep housing end and the puck together without the use of clamps. I will always spray the bar with silicone or anti splatter so it helps keep the splatter of of the bar. We always weld all the brackets or leaf pads in place before the ends go on and we will always use a gasket under the center section before the bar slides thru. I’m planning on making one more mod to the Alignment bar by increasing the diam to 1 3/4” and threading the ends of the bar and threading the pucks to keep it square to the bars centerline, I have found out from narrowing over 300 different housings that the little bit of bar to puck clearance sometimes will allow the housing end to pull even after putting 6-8 racks on it before welding causing a caber or toe effect and on hi horsepower apps of around 8-1500 that the axle Bering can have a tendency to try to walk off the axle. Don’t worry about the housing being warped 99 out of 100 that we get into are warped and need brought around exactly like u did it and the more severely warped ones we have to put into a press and heat up or retube the housing, the 9” housings are notoriously week from the factory that is why we build our own fab 9 or buy a new aftermarket center housing for more serious applications. Keep up the good work ! I have a few more hints/tip that may be useful to you if u need them , just let me know
I’ve watched a lot of ford 9 inch narrowing videos because I plan on attempting it myself soon. This is probably the best video that covers everything. I bought a narrowing kit off eBay for the alignment pucks you made on the lathe and am buying the round stock from a local metal supply. I did see one other video where the guy used a chain hooked on either end of the housing and bottle jack in the middle to bend his housing but you show a good alternative. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
The 62 Chevy heavy half ton truck had rear end we're you can remove the 3rd member from the from like a 9 in and it also had rear inspection plates so u can open it from both sides
Glad to see you using an alignment bar , some of the people on here are thinking of the ends are cut straight it will be spot on , WRONG ! I have put My alignment bar through stock housings to see how bad they are before cutting and they and usually bent a little bit . I have repaired some that were welded up without the alignment bar and they were really bad . Imagine someone lining up those ends with no bar , how bad would it have been ? pretty bad ......... I bought my kit from Lamb Products , the drag racing & Brake people out west back around 1992 maybe . My buddy had their kit and it was an amazing kit , 2" tool steel bar , full length , around 6 ft , (crazy heavy though ) . His kit came with bushings for Ford , Mopar , GM , and Lamb housing ends . He knew the owners at Lamb and ordered me a kit for $750.00 way back then . I got my kit and all it had was ends for the Lamb brakes , and the inner ones for a Dana 60. I got back with them and they said their kits only came with Lamb bushings . I was stuck with what I got and beyond pissed off , but luckily we had a lathe and copied my buddies bushings . The bad part of the 2" bar is that I cant narrow 10 bolt rears , the bar wont fit through the ends . I have done 12 bolt GM rears but I think they were a big end like Impala or truck . If I had to do it over , I would do what you did , great video .
Could have the welding of the brackets on the back caused the pulling of the axel? I usually weld brackets in short welds letting the axel cool to room temperature before doing the next weld. This has prevented any warpage for me.
nice job on the pucks, got an Atlas I need to do something similar with. I dunno if my welding's up to trusting my life with but if I get it set up I'm sure I can find someone to take care of that for me.
Nice job something you might want to consider , some people like to put about a quarter to a half a degree of toe in..... You could always research that advice..... I guess it all depends on what you're going to do with your car
How did you determine that the the housing was bent?? Have you ever tried 2 or 4 pieces of inch & quarter angle iron with c clamps Alamo it around your housing to hold it straight?
I know it’s late to the party……… for those watching this…… I watched a video on YT that explained how to preload the axle housing using a block and ratchet straps. I’m not sure heating is the way to go. May want to research.
You said cheap yeah that ain’t cheap at all cheap would be shit I found in the shed to make sure this stays tru as I weld it not a fuckin 600$ part list
@@yetigarage1134 what if you cut the inside of the tube. Grind the weld pull one of the tubes then when you slide it back in to weld it set it on jack stands and rotate it with a dial indicator on it keep spinning till it zeros out
@@broughttoideas the tubes are pressed in and usually when I cut the weld completely off I still have to cut a groove thru the last 3” or so and drive the piece of tube out and with the original housing end still welded on I think it would be extremely hard to get it clocked exactly the same as the other side , I’ve retubed many this way with 1/4” Dom but still weld the ends on last
@@michalyoung410 I figured it would be a pain to get it straight but thought if you only did one side it wouldn’t be too bad my wife’s pap has a 55 Chevy pickup and I’m trying to get it done so he can drive it before he passes he’s not doing well all he needs is the rear end done which we have a Ford 9in.
Why the heck are you going to make all of this stuff. Time and materials you’ll have as much in the kit you are building? Plus. How many of us want to be “mechenicckss” have a lathe. Especially one the size of yours. I also see yours is not a huge lathe.
Good job !! Food for thought! Here are some of my mods to my jig I made , after spending about 500 for my jig from a name brand chassis company I sold it after doing about 20 rear ends and made my own , I went to a hydraulic cylinder repair shop and bought a 60” 4130 chomoly chrome plated shaft 1 5/8” diameter and made my outside pucks with a step so I was able to put a digital level/inclinometer on the pucks to make sure ends are clocked the same side to side and I threaded the bolt holes to be able to keep housing end and the puck together without the use of clamps. I will always spray the bar with silicone or anti splatter so it helps keep the splatter of of the bar. We always weld all the brackets or leaf pads in place before the ends go on and we will always use a gasket under the center section before the bar slides thru. I’m planning on making one more mod to the Alignment bar by increasing the diam to 1 3/4” and threading the ends of the bar and threading the pucks to keep it square to the bars centerline, I have found out from narrowing over 300 different housings that the little bit of bar to puck clearance sometimes will allow the housing end to pull even after putting 6-8 racks on it before welding causing a caber or toe effect and on hi horsepower apps of around 8-1500 that the axle Bering can have a tendency to try to walk off the axle. Don’t worry about the housing being warped 99 out of 100 that we get into are warped and need brought around exactly like u did it and the more severely warped ones we have to put into a press and heat up or retube the housing, the 9” housings are notoriously week from the factory that is why we build our own fab 9 or buy a new aftermarket center housing for more serious applications. Keep up the good work ! I have a few more hints/tip that may be useful to you if u need them , just let me know
Thanks for the comment. That sounds like a serious jig you have.
I’ve watched a lot of ford 9 inch narrowing videos because I plan on attempting it myself soon. This is probably the best video that covers everything. I bought a narrowing kit off eBay for the alignment pucks you made on the lathe and am buying the round stock from a local metal supply. I did see one other video where the guy used a chain hooked on either end of the housing and bottle jack in the middle to bend his housing but you show a good alternative. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
P.S. I like the music lol
Glad it was helpful!
Really nice job, thanks for taking the time to make this video. Great job straightening the housing and welding it up.
great video thanks very helpful I will be tackling this for a s10 build
I would of totally worried about embrittlement but that worked awesome...
The 62 Chevy heavy half ton truck had rear end we're you can remove the 3rd member from the from like a 9 in and it also had rear inspection plates so u can open it from both sides
Glad to see you using an alignment bar , some of the people on here are thinking of the ends are cut straight it will be spot on , WRONG ! I have put My alignment bar through stock housings to see how bad they are before cutting and they and usually bent a little bit . I have repaired some that were welded up without the alignment bar and they were really bad . Imagine someone lining up those ends with no bar , how bad would it have been ? pretty bad ......... I bought my kit from Lamb Products , the drag racing & Brake people out west back around 1992 maybe . My buddy had their kit and it was an amazing kit , 2" tool steel bar , full length , around 6 ft , (crazy heavy though ) . His kit came with bushings for Ford , Mopar , GM , and Lamb housing ends . He knew the owners at Lamb and ordered me a kit for $750.00 way back then . I got my kit and all it had was ends for the Lamb brakes , and the inner ones for a Dana 60. I got back with them and they said their kits only came with Lamb bushings . I was stuck with what I got and beyond pissed off , but luckily we had a lathe and copied my buddies bushings . The bad part of the 2" bar is that I cant narrow 10 bolt rears , the bar wont fit through the ends . I have done 12 bolt GM rears but I think they were a big end like Impala or truck . If I had to do it over , I would do what you did , great video .
Happy to see you know how to handle the tig rig. Using the cup. Nice work man.
Nice work man. Keep the vids coming.
Could have the welding of the brackets on the back caused the pulling of the axel? I usually weld brackets in short welds letting the axel cool to room temperature before doing the next weld. This has prevented any warpage for me.
nice job on the pucks, got an Atlas I need to do something similar with. I dunno if my welding's up to trusting my life with but if I get it set up I'm sure I can find someone to take care of that for me.
You just gave me the idea to weld some dom tubing to the adjusters and machine to size. To create the inner alignment jigs
Thanks for sharing, I really appreciate it!
I see different techniques but that one is the must i like..good job and God bless.
Nice job something you might want to consider , some people like to put about a quarter to a half a degree of toe in.....
You could always research that advice.....
I guess it all depends on what you're going to do with your car
Nice work Eric
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice work this is just the advice I needed to narrow my 9 inch. thanks for sharing. You might reconsider using the background music
Good job,
How did you determine that the the housing was bent??
Have you ever tried 2 or 4 pieces of inch & quarter angle iron with c clamps Alamo it around your housing to hold it straight?
I know it’s late to the party……… for those watching this…… I watched a video on YT that explained how to preload the axle housing using a block and ratchet straps. I’m not sure heating is the way to go. May want to research.
Thanks for the comment. Post a link to that video or the title. Don't want anyone trying this with out all of the knowledge.
You have a part number on that shaft?
I don't, I bought that a few years ago. Sorry
i wouldve just taped the rod up and left it in. but awesome job
Nice fucking job
Man, thats gotta smell good @17:20!! 🤮
You said cheap yeah that ain’t cheap at all cheap would be shit I found in the shed to make sure this stays tru as I weld it not a fuckin 600$ part list
Sorry to disappoint. I haven't found a way to do it much cheaper. Let me know if you have some ideas, I'm always trying to save some money.
@@yetigarage1134 what if you cut the inside of the tube. Grind the weld pull one of the tubes then when you slide it back in to weld it set it on jack stands and rotate it with a dial indicator on it keep spinning till it zeros out
@@yetigarage1134 I’m gonna try it that way I only need to cut one side down. 3in and I don’t see why it wouldn’t work
@@broughttoideas the tubes are pressed in and usually when I cut the weld completely off I still have to cut a groove thru the last 3” or so and drive the piece of tube out and with the original housing end still welded on I think it would be extremely hard to get it clocked exactly the same as the other side , I’ve retubed many this way with 1/4” Dom but still weld the ends on last
@@michalyoung410 I figured it would be a pain to get it straight but thought if you only did one side it wouldn’t be too bad my wife’s pap has a 55 Chevy pickup and I’m trying to get it done so he can drive it before he passes he’s not doing well all he needs is the rear end done which we have a Ford 9in.
Why the heck are you going to make all of this stuff. Time and materials you’ll have as much in the kit you are building?
Plus. How many of us want to be “mechenicckss” have a lathe. Especially one the size of yours. I also see yours is not a huge lathe.
The music junked another video 👎👎👎👎💩💩💩😬