PS4 HDMI Port Replacement | Guide
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- čas přidán 2. 09. 2021
- Today I have a Playstation 4, the pins on the HDMI port have been forced through the back, and I had to break out a grinding tool to get this one open. Sure a screw extractor might have been a better idea, but with limited tools you use what you can.
Did I help you out? Buy me a coffee!
ko-fi.com/tapticdigital
Parts used:
amzn.to/3CSMDeV
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Tools:
Technik Tweezers (Almost the only kind I'd recommend)
amzn.to/3KPS6EB (out of stock? look below)
Hakko Tweezers (Made to last!)
amzn.to/3wRk6mI
Precision Screwdriver Set w/ Security Torx for consoles/phones
amzn.to/33SEPuV
Get my silicone work mat here:
amzn.to/3Cr7ofO
Curved Pry Tool (for separating adhesive):
amzn.to/3RSkWqt
Need something else? Leave a comment below with what tools you're looking for and I might just have a recommendation for you!
(Some links such as Amazon are affiliate links which support the channel, see the channel's About page for more information regarding affiliate links)
------------ - Jak na to + styl
Hey do you have a list of tools you use. I’m new to the circuit board repair game and just wondering what I need and where I could find all the stuff like soldering tools and stuff like that.
I really should post a list somewhere... In any case, the drivers are just a set of security torx drivers from a hardware store, the other stuff:
Hakko FM203-HD. This iron is kind of overkill for somebody just starting out, Hakko is just a good choice in general for irons. Temperature control is good to have.
Quick 861DW Heatgun. Also overkill, any that has temperature control and can reach at least 450°C will work fine.
AmScope Trinocular boom arm microscrop with 10x-45x. Even a cheap USB microscope will get you going.
Many of the products can be found on Amazon, Mobile Defenders, Mobile Sentrix, or maybe some local hobby shops.
Hope that helps!
Ya me too
The I fix it kit is great for stuff like this
I need help fixing my ps4
@@TapticDigital liked and subscribed, so many questions lol great video. What are the liquids you use in the processes like removal and adding new solder. I see you using a clear liquid i think you called it flux and what is the stuff used to clean of the old solder and old paste. I hear lead and non lead solder being mentioned as well, many thanks Andrew
I like the fact that you just get to the point right away...
Totally going to use this video as a reference. I've watched many videos, this one hands down is the very best. I just picked up a Yihua 8786D. My only issue is waiting for the flux. I ordered some MG chemicals and it's like a near two week wait for arrival. Great video and for some reason the way you talk in the video is very calming. Makes me feel more at ease when I do the repair.
Haven’t attempted to replace my HDMI port yet, but after seeing this video, I feel more confident after seeing that it can be done! Thank you for posting this! Very well put together, easy to follow and much appreciated humor. Looking forward to explore your channel and try to learn something. 😊
Just failed with mine, got nervous about how much heat it was taking and tore every single pad. My word of advice if you ever try this is wait about another minute from when it starts wiggling.
@@trentm5586 i just did mine. Luckily i bought a practice soldering board on amazon to guage and note down the temps. For tinning the hdmi pads. Use a low temp so u wont ripp off thr board.
@@trentm5586 sorry to hear that. If not for some of the comments online which talked about how much heat the board can safely take (A LOT), I definitely would've done the same because it really does feel like too much.
@@trentm5586 Every heat gun is different so best start with low temperature say 100° celsius and slowly increase from there to see how fast it can melt the solder joints without frying the othee components
@@trentm5586 Also nevee use heat gun without Flux or u risk the components getting sent flying
Thank you for this video! I jumped into the port replacement thinking it would be no big deal but after research I realized I may be over my head. But I bought a crappy hot air station and some watch repair magnifying lenses from Harbor Freight for $5.50 and got to it, and had a great success! Your video was instrumental.
Honestly with all the talk of how hard this job is online, it was not nearly as bad as I expected considering it was my first experience with soldering on a PCB. Hardly a pro job that I did but it worked.
It can be scary when you aren't sure exactly what to do, but I believe that anybody can repair their electronics with enough confidence and research! Glad you got it working, and good job!
@arealsourapple bro did you find everything you needed from Harbor Freight? Mine legit just went out 😪 I’d rather repair this myself seeing how simple he made it seem. I have experience w soldering and what not due to my job but any of those items would be overkill on this. Just trying to find the cheapest solution
@@210nitenite_diver5 No, sorry my post wasn't clear. The hot air station was purchased on Amazon, as well as some flux and lead solder. I already owned a soldering iron but it wasn't a very good one. The only thing purchase at Harbor Freight was the magnifying glasses.
In all it was a bit janky and frustrating but it got done.
Great guide, thanks so much! I managed to successful repair a PS4 HDMI port.
My first attempt I messed up the replacement HMDI port by melting the plastic a little too much and bridging the contacts.
Attempt 2 I thought I had done something similar but turns out it is perfectly good.
Patience is key and soldering skills help a lot!
Heck yeah my dude! Good job! That plastic back is super unforgiving when heat gets to it, and sometimes those pins will "suck" the solder up and bridge themselves internally.
And it doesn't have to look absolutely perfect, just functional!
Glad my video helped! 🙂
Amazing video! I love the audio and video quality, the walkthrough, and length of the video. Great work!
Thank you! 😊
i have to compliment you. an easy-to-follow and understand guide. with high-quality video as well thank you so much. you've gained a sub.
Awesome! That's what I call successful, I want all my guides to be short, easy enough for beginners, and high quality enough to know what you're looking at. Thanks so much!
Great Video! Lots of good info through the comments aswell. Im now fully inspired to gear up and fix my old console thats been collecting dust. Thank you.
Great video and congrats on 600 subs
im coming here 2 years later and still found this great thanks man now I can sell this thing since I havent used it in years
Awesome! This video has definitely held up better than a lot of my other ones, and hopefully helped a lot of people
Thanks for this. For the amount of views vs how good this video is... I just want you to know I appreciate the work.
And I appreciate you telling me! I'm trying to put out the shortest, most informative and high quality videos I can!
After seeing this video, I can confidently say I will be buying a PlayStation five as there is no way I can do this myself lol. Thank you for the great video.
Definitely not for the faint of heart when it comes to soldering! You can still get it repaired at a lot of shops for around $100, but I will say the PS5 plays reeaaally nice too
Smooth and clean video
Your like a Tech Bob Ross!! Thank you
Thanks for showing me that I need to take my grandson P4 to the Shop, a little more than I expected
Definitely not the easiest DIY project! But thankfully getting it repaired is still cheaper than a new console!
I'm trying this today for the first time. Thanks so much for the short and concise video. It is truly appreciated. Subscribing now
Thanks for watching! Good luck with it, just take your time on the pins and don't stress too hard if some of the solder bridges together, it's pretty easy to fix, and remember that Flux is your friend!
@@TapticDigital I'm a pro now at ps4 controllers so im decent at soldering. Do you not think heat resistant tape is necessary for this with the hot air? I always cover all chips on controllers when I take out joysticks
@@louisrsanders my airflow nozzle is pretty concentrated so it rarely hits other stuff, sometimes a resistor or two will go liquid but almost never goes flying. If it does fly, I won't lie, I kind of like the challenge.
@@TapticDigital also, couldn't you just get away with after tinning the pads just hitting it with the hot air again and not need to individually solder each pin? I'm going to do it your way but I figured you could do it quick and dirty with just air
@@louisrsanders you sure can, especially because cleaning out the feet sucks. Sometimes I'll tin the pads, hot air and yeet the port in. That is actually about the only way I know how to install a Nintendo Switch port, it's got covered pins. Little Flux, solder, prayer and hit air.
Great Job
Those dude is awesome I wish mor videos were made like this you got my sub
Thank you! 😊
I always appreciate a Clarke & Dawe reference!
It's not typical, I want to make that very clear.
Great video.
can you do a video on how to fix?
/change a ps4 controller charger
Thanks for making this video ! 😊
Thanks for leaving a comment! 😊
so therapeutic my gawd
i have the one that first came out and i didn’t know i needed all that how else could i do it?
I already disassembled my whole game now just need a few tips on the soldering part
Here's a handful of unsorted tips I've had over the years. Go slow, making sure each pin is firmly attached to the pad. Pin too springy? Use some tweezers to press it down while soldering. It doesn't take a lot of solder to attach them either, you don't need a huge blob of it, even a light coating on the pin and pad will bond. Rotate the board in a way that is comfortable for you to work on so long as you can see what you're working on. Flux is your friend, it's messy, but it keeps things looking good and reduces the chance of bridging connectors. Some people find it easier to add solder to the pad first, then press the pin with the iron, but some people like to press the pin and slowly feed solder into it. If the pin is attached to the pad, however you did it, is the correct way (somebody is gonna get smart though and send me pictures of a 3 inch jumper wire attaching it and asking if that's also correct)
this is a Perfect work thank you very much
Glad I could help!
Thx i really needed this for repairs
Very well explained
Also what kind of thermal paste should i use?
Any kind works, I typically go for the Arctic MX4
Thx@@TapticDigital
Pat on the back son !
LIked and Subbed. Great video and excellent tutorial. Well done and thank you.
I'm glad it helped! Thanks so much!
@@TapticDigital Now, I'm bingeing on your Fusion 360 vids. Been working on learning this since the fall.
@@ShaunBennett it's a learning curve, I like fusion since I'm able to draw and build off it, blender got wayyy too confusing for me unfortunately
A few questions. What solder and heat gun do you use or recommend? I am typically the one who repairs all my friends consoles but haven’t tried soldering but want to in case it comes down to it. Do you have a Amazon list of solder equipment and heat gun recommendations? Also what liquids do I get that you put for the solder that you used in the video. When you cleaned off the old solder what is the strip you used and how does it help clean the solder off?
I actually have a pinned comment on this video with my equipment list. You need any basic soldering iron with temperature control and a pencil style tip. Any heatgun with temperature control that can reach up to 450C will work fine, smaller nozzles help too for directing the hot air. The liquid I use is soldering flux, it allows the solder to flow without smearing and bridging connections, the other liquid is just isopropyl alcohol to clean the flux off. The strip is soldering wick, or braid, and when heated the solder gets pulled into the braid through capillary action. It's useful for cleaning off excess or unwanted solder. Hope that helps!
hello there Taptic Digital, this video of yours replacing the ps4's hdmi port is fantastic! watch it like 5 times(that's how awesome it was, lol) i was also curious to look at the comments section to see a specific asked question around, but no one seemed to bothered to ask you about it. if i may ask, what is the size of the leaded solder wire you're using on video footage 3:33?
i forgot to mention, do you have a video on how to repair the Nintendo switch Lite power charging port?
Thanks! I'm fairly sure the solder was around 0.02 or 0.03 diameter, I use small so it doesn't spread too much. Oddly enough I don't have a video out of a switch charge port, I should definitely record one!
dude! thank you so much!!! you're such an awesome responder! 💯💯💯👍👍👍A++++
it looks so, so easy on the video.... how wrong I was!!! great job!
It took a lot of repairs before I was even confident enough to show it on video, it definitely isn't a repair for beginners! But thank you so much!
@@TapticDigital I'm not looking forward to do it again any time soon, but I'm glad I tried though.
Ripped my pads. Seems like the board took forever to heat up😢 Definitely not for beginners
Hey I just bought a bo3 edition with this issue. Any thing hidden or extra with it I should know?
Very nicely done. I've got a pretty accurate temperature gauge on my soldering iron, but the only heat gun that I have is huge and has just 2 power settings. Would you recommend using that gun? If so, what do you recommend covering the other components with, to prevent melting the entire thing into a mass of toxic goo?
Just depends how high that heatgun goes. Anything past 500c runs the risk of bubbling the internal PCB layers, and that's not repairable. You can cover components with kapton tape (the yellow kind), if you don't have that use pretty much any thin metal covers will work, I've been known to use a razor blade to just cover things.
@@TapticDigital Thanks, I'll do some testing to see what temperature the low setting on my heat gun puts out.
@@theorncampbell4432 There are also barrier sprays we use in the automotive trade when taking an oxyacetylene torch to a car. It protects sensitive materials like rubber and plastic from the intense heats needed to cut or loosen bolts. They make them for all sorts of applications for the same reasons, so I imagine there are some specifically for electronics.
@@goodolddoug889 Thanks so much. I'll do a bit of research.
what kind of heat gun is it cause I only have the same kind. I'm hoping the low setting is good enough but no way to test it
Hey, what's the stuff you use to clean the older solder when you remove the HDMI connector called? I'm missing that but I can't figure out the name. Thanks a lot
Solder Wick, or copper braid. Had one coworker call it "the penny rope"
@@TapticDigital Thank you so much!! And great video too, very concise!
there was a cut in the video where you unhooked the connectors under the power supply. did you come un from the bottom if the unit? i kind of git lost right there.
Yep, I flip the console upside down and pull the power supply out form below
chears this is informative and helpfull ^^
Glad to hear it! Thanks!
Is the clear goo you put down flux? I'm new to soldering but wanting to give this a go on a console myself to learn. Doesn't seem too hard since you made it really easy looking lol. So do you put the flux down then your wire to clean off the ports and then solder on some to the board just so it sticks?
It sure is flux, it creates surface tension and removes impurities. I use it when I'm cleaning the pads off of the old solder, it helps the copper wick absorb the solder faster. Flux gets burnt after enough heat and needs to be wiped off periodically. I use a fresh squirt of flux then feed a line of solder into it, this helps it evenly distribute across the pads without bridging together. Solder will always stick to copper or already tinned pads, but it's tricky to make it not smear or create spikes, and that's where flux saves the day!
So the leaded soder is supposed to make it easier to remove the unleaded soder? Because I am having a hard time trying to remove the soder by itself.
Correct! Removing the factory solder is almost impossible because all the flux has been burned away, so it doesn’t melt very nicely. Using leaded solder adds flux to the mixture as well as lowering the overall melting temperature, making it much easier to work with.
Need a pa4 hdmi done I don’t have the Sauter tools
What is the clear liquid stuff you put on the board and magically made the solder fall into its proper places for the hdmi to mobo connections? (The many tiny connections)
Flux! It cleans impurities off the soldering points and creates surface tension around the solder that helps it stick to where it belongs.
Hello! Could you tell me what the copper strip thing is and what it does also where can I get the flux thing could you attach a link
That is soldering wick, it is used to soak up solder to remove it. Kind of like a sponge picking up water. You can use any brand you like, I use Techspray and usually get it from Amazon
I have a console that was given to my son and the way she explained it to me was that the console fell off of her son's desk while the HDMI cable was plugged in (of course) And sometimes the screen flickers so if you just barely touch the HDMI cable while it's plugged in the screen will go off If you disconnect it and plug it back in the screen will come back on until the HDMI cable is barely wiggled I'm assuming there must be a broken solder point on the motherboard. I'm going to try to just heat it up and see if it works because my pins are not damaged at all.
Yep, super common problem. And if it still works at angles, that’s a good sign that the pad on the board isn’t ripped or damaged. You likely just need to reflow/touch up the pins behind the port. Hot air is great but can sometimes melt the port internally which isn’t fun, usually I’ll just take a soldering iron and add a bit of solder to each pin to make sure it’s fused with the pad on the board. Should be pretty straight forward, and you may as well do all the pins just to reinforce them.
Hey man amazing work, do you think there is a way to do this at home in a more simple way?
At the least you'd need a basic soldering iron which isn't too expensive, in theory you could do it with just a heat gun but you'd have to get so lucky with the pins. Too much heatgun and the port will melt. I wouldn't recommend it, but I'm also tossing around the idea to repair an iPhone using only a power drill so I may not be the best judge...
Yea.. I think I should just leave it to the professionals, anyway thanks for getting back to me man keep up the good work👍🏾
2:18 For you viewers that already know how to open up one of these
nice
Awesome tutorial! you made it seem so easy.
Definitely going to hook into my PS4 which has been absolutely useless since 2017.
Honestly not even fussed if i succeed or not since it's been sitting in a shed for a good few years.
Is there a specific type flux paste and solder you have to use? Or can you use any?
Flux is dealers choice, I personally use ChipQuik but there are much better options. For solder I prefer leaded, as it's a bit easier to work with for me.
Hey, can you give the specific kind of Solder used and Flux used in this video? Im trying to get the proper solder and they have so many different options. Thank you!
You can use any kind, I prefer leaded solder with rosin core. As far as the brand I'm not sure, my roll has mostly Chinese writing. Flux, I'd use any tacky flux , but in this video I used ChipQuik brand.
@@TapticDigital thank you for the quick reply! 🙏🏼
Can I use any hdmi port replacement, for example I got an old printer with 4 hdmi ports and I have the board out, could i use one of them?
There are different types of HDMI port, so it's quite unlikely they'd be the same. But I would love to know what printer has 4 HDMI ports and why on earth a printer would need even one?
I am currently giving this a try. I have some experience with esd, soldering.. ect. Anyways I have mine completely apart. I bought the heating gun, flux ect.. I now have it apart only to find the hdmi port it came with actually has a black plastic piece on the back side of the physical port covering where the individual pins connect. Not sure if that might just be a type of dust cover or not? Whether or not to pull the black tab off???
Is it the foam-like tab? If so I am ashamed to say I occasionally melt those off after forgetting to pull it. It isn't necessary though. If you have some kind of black tape covering actual connection points, that may be signs of a refurbishment or a manual fix at the factory, it likely isn't needed either
What was the clear stuff you put on before putting the new HDMI port on . Great vid by the way
Sorry I just saw it. Flux
this is a really great short video on how to repair it. But my question is.. do you have to use a heatgun to melt the solder holding the bad HDMI port to get it lose? is it possible to just use flux while pressing the solder iron on each the points holding it in?
Technically yes, but very very difficult to get all of it out. You'd have to first remove the solder from the pins and make absolutely certain they are detached or else they can rip the pads off the board. Then you'd want to remove solder from all four feet and wiggle the port up and out. The factory uses lead-free solder which has a much higher melting temperature than leaded solder, so if you're using leaded I would recommend holding the iron on the feet till they melt, then feed some leaded solder into it to mix it up. Doing this should lower the melting temperature and help it soak up on the wick much easier.
@@TapticDigital thank you so much for the detailed reply. I'm not able to get a hot air device also uncomfortable using it also. Never soldered before. Every video I've seen they use hot air so I wasn't sure. But thank you again. I will eventually get the courage to try it!
@@AiYunaEverAfter soldering is just like drawing, but with metal haha. It takes some practice, I'd practice on any old dead electronics you may have laying around first, but with enough flux it can be a bit easier. And if you have wick to soak up the old solder, you don't have to worry about too much solder going where it shouldn't.
Great video , U made that look easy .....I've been working on my port replacement for a full day , my ps4 has brackets that held the old hdmi port in ...and they just wont release from the board, no matter how much heat I apply , the solder will not liquify and release these GD brackets...I feel I have over heated the surrounding components to the point damage was done but ....Ill get these brackets out despite the possible damage I'm doing , I wont know what I fucked up till I complete the process but ...I'm learning at least..
You gotta start somewhere! And if I may offer some advice on those stubborn solder points; if you're using leaded solder like I am, melt some of it into the existing solder. This will lower the overall melting temp and make it a bit easier. You can try the solder wick on it, and sometimes with enough flux you'll be able to scoop it up, but usually not. My heatgun is set to 450C, and I keep the air moving back and forth so it's not all concentrated in one spot. Once you get it out, you can try the wick to pull out what's left, but you can also heatgun it till its liquid and smash the new port in place.
P.S. I reply to pretty much every comment, especially if you need help. And if you need to send pictures or something my Instagram is in the About tab of my channel!
@@TapticDigital TY TD!! I need all the help I can get..lol ..I've never done a port replacement b4 .. I'm just afraid Im gonna over heat the board and melt stuff ..Do u think Im just not heating it up enough? I got most of the solder off with the wick and the brackets are wiggling a very tiny bit now so Im getting somewhere I guess, Ill send U pics tonight when I work on it again..I really appreciate the help thanx again ..
@@jimmyrigged1292 if the board is damaged, you'll know it. The inner layers will bubble up and burst and the board will appear "bumpy" if it reaches that point, it's time to replace the board or console sadly
@@TapticDigital well theres no sign of that yet ..thank god ..I think im not heating it enough ..I believe u said u used 450c which is about 860f ..So Ill crank up my heat a little more and hopefully they'll pop off cuz once they come off the new port should be easy to install
Was that flux or solder you put over the hdmi ports at 3:24 before you started the hot iron
Flux, solder is the actual metallic part.
Thanks for the video, I was able to change the HDMI port successfully. The only problem now is that the console no longer recognizes a controller. This was not the case before. I have already tried 20 different cables and different controllers and even a new one from Amazon, nothing helps. Funnily enough, I can connect the controller via USB cable when the PS4 is in security mode. Repairing the database etc. could not solve the problem either, when I want to reinstall the firmware via USB the error message "SU-41283-8" appears. Does anyone have any idea what I can do?
Ever since the switchover from lead-based solder, I get conflicted when I see someone replace lead-free with lead-based. On one hand, it's now no longer RoHS compliant and thus technically harder to recycle especially if not properly labelled as such. However.....lead-based is just objectively better in every single way aside from toxicity. I learned soldering with lead-based and still to this day struggle with even high quality lead-free. I was the one dude in my automotive class with a background in electronics and my soldering skills looked the same as almost anyone else's as a result of this new stuff. lol
I went back and forth a lot on leaded vs. unleaded, and while training I ended up blowing out several PCBs beyond repair just from the high heat it took to melt the unleaded stuff sometimes. I also had a garbage heat gun at the time. I eventually decided leaded is the solder for me, it's just easier to manipulate in my opinion, it also reduces accidents during repair. And even though it reduces recycling ability, it's still wide open for part resellers and refurbishers. I have a friend TechChick on CZcams here who uses unleaded solder without flux, I say she's absolutely mad but she's taught me way more soldering techniques than I could list, so I really think it's down to personal preference (and company policy if that applies).
Use what works imo. There is a lot more toxic stuff in solder than lead anyways. And if you can't use unleaded solder properly, you'll be generating a lot more recyclable waste by butchering a pcb, than a small amount of lead would. People don't recycle consoles anyways, they throw them in the garbage. Sad but true.
Is it my TV or is it my PS4 if the HDM card keeps burning up the back of the TV
Can you please tell me if there is another way to clean off the old solder without the braided copper or if it’s necessary
They make other removal tools, but it's not entirely necessary. You can heatgun that area of the board till the solder melts, then very quickly push the new port into its place. Don't heatgun with the port on there, it'll melt, just wait till the solder goes liquid and use pliers to push the port into place.
What's up? Im trying to buy a replacement hdmi socket for my ps4 and apparently it has to be compatible? What models are compatible with a ps4 CUH-1116A? would really appreciate the information
I've not seen any differences in compatibility with the PS4 ports. The Pro and Slim use one that is different from the regular PS4, but as far as I've seen there's only one for all base PS4s
Can I get a list of everything needed to complete this project? Thanks
Sure, you're going to need:
- A strong pry tool
- Security Torx drivers
- probably pliers/tweezers
- hot air station
- soldering iron/solder
- HDMI port (check Mobile Defenders)
- thermal paste
- some determination
Can I use a ps3 hdmi port to replacethe damaged ps4 hdmi?
Great video. I have attempted the repair and I believe I’m getting some signal to the screen, but certainly not correctly. Is it possible I bridged a gap between data pads? And if so, what’s the best way to go about fixing that?
Definitely possible, using some soldering wick you can brush those data pads and it should remove the excess solder. It will probably also leave enough to keep each one attached. I'll usually take some tweezers and gently push the pins on either side to see if they wiggle at all, then hit them with the iron again as needed. The other possibility is an HDMI encoder chip, which can cause a blank display without saying "no signal", but I'd check the pins first!
Awesome. Thanks so much!
Which leaded solder wire did you use in this video? Can you please share the brand name and specifications?
Any brand and gauge will work. Really any solder is fine, I just prefer leaded. I'm not sure what brand I have, the label is in another language.
trying this at home but might have to bring the board to school. i dont have flux and the solder wont melt.
Your school has soldering equipment? Sounds like a cool school!
Your videos are fantasy repair porn. I could never do this, but i love watching it being done so professionally and with such care.
Repair porn, I like it!
pulling the board out is stressful 😅 the thermal paste on my ps4s cpu is a bit messed up, any tutorial on replacing it?
Pretty much just wipe it all out with isopropyl alcohol and dollop a fresh drop on the center! I’d follow a tutorial for a desktop PC to get an idea of how much is needed
I don't know why but when I try to put new solder it just doesn't stick like one side does but the other doesn't even if I put high temp on the hdmi port it doesn't wiggle or something
Are you pressing the iron directly on to the pad of the board? It needs to make really good contact to transfer heat into that pad. I've found using a slightly larger tip sometimes can do the trick, and Flux seems to somewhat help as well
those TIM pads at the end before shield cover replacement are fubar. im surprised u didnt change those as well
I do after testing, it gets all fresh pads as well as an in depth dust cleaning, these consoles sure get gross!
@@TapticDigital Phew - Yea they sure do! I have to do the same when I deep clean them. I've had a few that were unbelievable... like clean them outside the shop bad lmao. Thanks for the quick reply, and thanks for the informative video!
Sweet! Do you take these type of jobs? I my kids PS4 That has the same issue. It’s the second one with this problem.
Hey sadly I don't offer mail in just yet, I'd recommend calling some local shops. All else fails search for ShaneFix, he's on CZcams and offers mail in specifically for consoles!
Sir Great video. Sir quick question I came here looking to find a way to fix my sons HDMI port problem but as I have learned it’s gonna take some expensive tools to fix it which I don’t have and I would only use maybe for this repair. Is there a way to get in contact with you so I could possibly send you this PlayStation for you to fix the same problem? Thank you
Hey I don't offer mail-in repairs just yet, I'd recommend contacting local shops with decent reviews. Many phone repair shops also offer this service. If all else fails I have recommended ShaneFix in the past, they offer quality mail-in repairs with good turn around times.
When you pressed the pins, i noticed you didn't use any solder? What was the go there? Can i just press the pins with my iron back into the data pads?
Cheers 👍
In this case I didn't need to add extra because I added solder prior to putting the port on, though it probably wouldn't have hurt to add extra. I pressed the pins into a blob on top of the pads. Most repairs I hold the pin down and feed solder into it, just dependa on the day sometimes!
@@TapticDigital no worries, thanks for the super quick reply!!!!
I hope you still reply to comments even though this video is a year old. It was an amazing tutorial and I have completely tore down my pc to the motherboard now all I need to do is buy the hdmi. Is there anywhere else I can buy it for a similar price because the website is not working well with me and I’m trying to create an account but it won’t let me. I would also like to know if it would be smart to buy two instead of one
Of course I reply to comments, at least as long as I'm on CZcams! I'm glad the tutorial helped! You can grab new HDMI ports from many places, Injured Gadgets has been pretty reliable for me lately, and eBay usually has good parts if all else fails. I do highly recommend two unless you are very familiar with soldering small components, it's good to have a backup in case the first one decides to go all melty on you. Good luck, and if you remember when you're done, come back here and let me know how it went!
What is the glue like stuff you put on the pins? I'm trying to replace mine but I'm not sure what that is and don't want to mess them up please help!
And do I have to replace the thermal paste??
Flux, it creates surface tension for solder and helps it flow smoothly where it needs to be. If you're not familiar with soldering I'd say it's a must have. A lot of solder wire has rosin core, which is basically Flux inside it, but a bit extra never hurts. Remember you can always use the wick to clean off excess or bridges. Also you don't *have* to replace the thermal paste, though I would HIGHLY recommend it. It can lead to bubbles in the paste and less efficient cooling.
+1 to the 70s porn music in the background, dude's voice just lays over top of it.... Nice. That being said, spot on video; thanks.
😳
Question: What is that gel? Because I filled everything in this and the port still isn’t working, do I need that clear gel? I don’t know what’s it’s called and I don’t know why it still isn’t working.
That gel is called Flux. Flux creates surface tension and doesn't mix with solder, but it allows solder to float and stick to the spot you want. It isn't necessary, but it really helps. It sounds like your pins just aren't staying stuck to the pads on the board. You may have good luck holding the pin to the pad with the iron, and feeding a small amount of solder into it to get them to bond together. You can use tweezers to nudge each pin gently to see if it's attached or wiggling and needing more "encouragement"
What size of T tool to open back of PS4 because T10 didn’t fit. Thanks
Almost definitely a T9 or T10
could you put a link to the hdmi replacement? i want to make shure i get the right one
Sure, link in the description!
It may have been asked.
But what solder/flux are you using, and which tools. The way I've been doing it is getting troublesome and not correct Eben though it works and I wanna be more professional with it and this my guy, is professional
Thanks! I have some of the tools listed in a pinned comment, but I use ChipQuik tacky flux, an unidentifiable chinese roll of leaded solder (really any works, rosin core is great). I use a Hakko soldering iron, and any heatgun that can reach 450C
Hi i have a ps4 white light problem and need advice.
So i traded a faulty xbox one original for a supposed faulty ps4 original from a person that fixes consoles that wanted the Xbox for spares.
So on the day i got home with the ps4 i used my ps3 cables to power it on and it miraculously powered on which surprised me as the controller was connected properly using the usb cable.
But i saw the screen flash black then back to the home screen which i didn't know what is was then it did it once more and was displaying perfectly.
After about 5 mins of waiting for it too show some errors or switching off because i did not expect it to work i plugged in my usb speakers to the other usb port on the front while the controller was plugged in.
That was when the screen went black instantly. I didn't know what happened and pressed the eject button and a copy of GTA 5 came out which means the console was still powered on.
When i plug the controller and speakers in on my ps3 super slim at the same time is says too many devices drawing power something like that.
So i think it drew too much power on the ps4 and caused a wlod on the ps4.
Im trying to do a home repair with minimal tools and if you could give me some idea of what the usb ports could have shorted eg a transistor or fuses or something.
It still powers on and everything but that was the defining factor i think that contributed to the white light of death.
Any recommendations would help as ive watched a lot of CZcams videos and most are the ic chip or some transistor .
Its a original ps4 with wlod 1116A
In my experience it is almost always the HDMI controller chip. While the USB ports on the PS4 had their own set of issues, it would very rarely toast other components, but it's entirely possible if it was trying to pull too much power. Does the console turn on and display anything with NO USB devices connected? If it's still a WLOD, it's chip time.
It's possible the HDMI port itself is internally damaged, like a disconnected pin. Unfortunately this can actually damage the chip as well. I suspect that's going to be the solution on this one. Pop it open and find out which chip you need (and look for any signs of damage), and get that bad one replaced! If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, some local shops might, otherwise check out Chase Fournier or ShaneFix here on YT.
I'm having some vertical wiggle on my hdmi port. No visible wear from what I can see. Is it normal for soldering to crack, maybe? Mind you, I'm still getting signal. I just noticed the other day it was moving quite a bit and the screen would cut out for split second.
Yes! With age and environment the solder used on the data pins can start to crack or loosen. Many times you'll open it up to find one or more pins completely disconnected and floating above the pad, but due to the angle and pressure of the cable being connected it caused the pins to touch the pads and still work. Once pressure is changed or released, they float again and you loose signal. This doesn't require a full port replacement, just a touch up of adding some solder to those pins (or all of them for good measure).
@TapticDigital thanks this helps a lot. Also, I need a little advice on prevention. Would putting the ps4 on its side with a stand help prevent it from happening again, once its been fixed
Bro I need you to do this any idea who could do this for me in Utah
Attempted scrapped the ps4 after. To remove the hdmi housing your gonna have a good time. It’s almost like they used a higher temp soldier for it. It won’t budge forget it. Save the frustration have some one who makes a living doing this.
It takes an insane amount of heat, the kind that would normally air fry regular PCB. It's actually pretty clever because it allows the entire board to act as a heatsink and keep temperatures low, but it makes repair a total pain.
Mine is greatest the white light of death but the hdmi port does not look damaged at all. Any other issues i should be worried about? All other components work
Could be the HDMI encoder chip that sits behind the port a bit further back. They go bad from time to time. It is also called a Retimer chip.
What do you recommend if you have an HDMI port that doesn't want to come loose with heat?
Aren't they the worst? I remember one time using two heatguns at the same time. If you're using leaded solder for your repair, go ahead and add some to the factory feet and pins, don't be afraid to bridge pins here, you're replacing the port after all. The leaded solder should help the factory unleaded melt faster!
Can I use an upside down HDMI port for the fix? I can’t seem to find this exact replacement. All the one I got were upside down.
No, it has to be this specific one. Have you looked on Amazon or ebay?
@@TapticDigital neither is available in Nigeria. And shipping will just take ages
3:03 what is that stuff i got a ps4 that needs hdmi fix and that stuff made it look easy i have no skills at soldering
Flux, it keeps things from smearing and sticking together. If you have no soldering experience, I would not recommend attempting this!
Yea my port just took a crap, I have a soldering gun, looks like I need to get a smaller iron. What kind of heat gun are u using?
Any heatgun that can go up to about 450°C should get the job done. The board spreads heat incredibly fast so it can take a while to get it hot enough. Mine is the Quick 861DW
What temp should I set up the soldering iron to in Fahrenheit?
I use anywhere between 420C-440C, blaze that solder! 😉
Everything was good right up to where you put fresh solder on the pins first. You need to keep those pads clean until after you solder the shielding pins. The data pins should be touching the pcb pads and be soldered into place last.
yeah but thats ocd as crap lol what are you a ipc soldering instructor
Hey I have some issue with hdmi port, whenever the cable got moved the display is off, I already ask the technician to replace with the new port, but now it still got the same issue. Is it the port or other part is damaged?
That's usually the sign of a loose pin on the back of the HDMI port, something isn't fully connected. It may not need a new port, but it definitely needs some soldering.
I have a question I did evrything but when I got to the hdmi the soldering was way to hard to melt is their any thing I could do and I have a soldering iron that goes to 450
I'd try adding some solder to the feet, this can help lower the temperature to work better with the heatgun. Or you could try some soldering wick to soak up the old feet, but they are incredibly stubborn
@@TapticDigital okay thank you
What's the liquid everyone uses before soldering the new piece in
Flux! It cleans impurities off the soldering points and creates surface tension around the solder that helps it stick to where it belongs.
Any tips to cleaning the hdmi connecting holes?I have been attempting to clean them with flux, Soldering wick. But it's not cleaning throughly for me to be able to just stick the hdmi port in
They are a total pain, in most cases I end up using a heatgun and jamming some wick into the hole once it's melted to clear it out. Surface cleaning never seems to suck it all up, but running wick through a super hot hole does!
@@TapticDigital honestly, really wish you had shown that process during this video. The holes are so deep that heat doesn't seem to penetrate and melty original solder. Besides this, the entire process has been a breeze, but this part is killing me.
I wish I would've watched this before doing this on my own. I mixed solder in with the two legs on each side of the hdmi port then used tweezers to wedge each side out. I ripped up all the traces xd. I didn't apply the solder to the hdmi pins before doing this, only the legs holding it in. sigh.
That sounds super brutal. It may be saveable, but worth it is questionable. I know mail-in services like NorthridgeFix can run very clean jumpers off traces, but it's a lot of work.
First of all, thank you very much for the teachings. I have a problem. I broke the component where pin 5 is soldered, that component in black color can I "bridge" it or is it essential and if so, would you pass me the data?..
I'm not sure which component you mean, there aren't any near the pins. But if one of the filters broke, you'll need to replace it, bridging likely won't fix it.
@@TapticDigital
I tell you almost all the pins were swept so searching I saw that the pins can be bridged to the components following the tracks... in my case pin 5 that goes to a component that I don't know what it is if it is a resistor or a capacitor came out and was lost then I don't know if it is important or I can weld it on one side or on the ground side or without that component it will work. Thank you very much!
Peace be upon you sir! Screen takes 1 min and half to connect. Tv checked no problem. Hdmi brought new
I've got a PS4 with this issue and your video has emboldened me to replace the HDMI port! A question - do you need a heat gun or can you use a desoldering gun instead to remove the port?
You will definitely need a heat gun for this one to release all the pins on the top side. Desoldering guns work alright on the feet, but rarely get all of it out and leave a thin fused layer. You’ll also need a heat gun that can reach at least 450C, these boards like it hot!
@@TapticDigital Understood, thanks for replying with the information. Now I know exactly which tool to buy! 🙂
I recently had the hdmi replaced on my ps4 slim but it still doesn't work. The hdmi cables work fine on other devices. Any idea on what the problem my be?
It is most likely the HDMI encoder chip that sits behind the port, it's also called a re-timer. Some shops will replace it, others won't go near it. Worth calling around.
Hey just one question
PlayStation 4 Slim HDMI Port and Pro HDMI Port Is there a Diffrence?
Slim and Pro are the same, while the "normal" PS4 is different!
I see you using a solder yet it is coming out clear when you melt it?
Clear solder sounds cool, but not what's happening here. The clear stuff is flux to help the solder flow and stick only to the pads on the board.