You're Soldering HDMI Ports ALL WRONG! Do It This Way Instead...
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- čas přidán 11. 10. 2023
- #repair #righttorepair #microsoldering
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This is the very first channel that I've seen show the whole view of the technician doing the task and from a great viewing angle. It's helpful because you can gauge the distance of the nozzle from the board and the real-world time it takes. Really really useful.
Thanks buddy, hopefully it helps :)
To anyone who starting doing repairs and have been able to replace one or two hdmi ports will appreciate this video! 🙌
soldering is a big collection of tricks. this is one of them.
i do these jobs on regular basis. my colleagues, who do software are often in awe on "how did you do that!?"...
It's all tricks. And they can be found on places like this.
Good job.
I've been using your drop method since I saw it on one of your videos a few months ago. It's so much quicker and cleaner than using a nozzle to flow the pads then manually soldering the legs.
I replace 5-6 ports a week and I have never had a console returned since changing to this method.
You know, Phil I think you're on to something with these last 2 vids. Giving tips with examples really helps. I've done traditional electronics repair for a LONG time but SMD is new to me. So you can teach an old dog... ;)
Thanks bud, I'm hoping I can keep them up but I'll probably need some help from the community on what to film :)
Here's a great tip for anyone removing HDMI-ports: Let gravity do the work. Just flip it over and give the port space to fall out and it usually will. That way you won't excert any force by mistake what so ever and you virtually remove the risk of tearing any pads.
Oh, and remember to clean the board of flux afterwards you're done. Sure most fluxes these days is completely fine to leave on in terms of not causing any damage long term but it's still good practice and it looks way neater.
Was about to suggest the same... Also it will literally DROP right into place when you flip the board back up...
Still kinda new to these stuff. Thanks for the tip
I like to empty out the holes first and place the hdmi port flat then secure a few pins and add solder to the holes again and finish the hdmi pins
I am about to offer a HDMI repair service as part of my repairs skills. Just removed 2 usb ports off a dell laptop pcb and what a mess by using a nozzle. I think your method is excellent and will now use this for all my pcb repairs. Thanks vm indeed for posting.
Pre-tinning the connector should help to get best possible solder joints ....
Agreed. I always tin my Chipsets and HDMI Port Replacements.
Great demo Phil. Passing knowledge like this on will be of help to a lot of would diy techs out there. I have always found the faster you can get a job like this done minimises the chances of the board or surrounding components being damaged. The longer your having to hold heat in one area increases the chances of pop corning the board, or weakening the bond between the board and traces. Getting the whole lot to melt quickly is a must - especially with ports that have hidden pins - USB C for example.
Thanks man!Glad to see someone make a video like this!
Thank you! I cant wait to try this out tomorrow
Very nice video Phil, love to see your own experience and how to do it right and time efficient. Great technician you are. 👍
I always use low melt first to reduce the chance of damaged pads
makes sense if you are not time restricted
Thanks! I'm really liking these short explainer vids, such as the steady hand one and this.
Thanks so much bud
love it ! for someone that started , this is one of the best video with great explanatory exemples .
i've replaced almost 15 hdmi ports so far...every time it took me more than 30 mins JUST for the port alone. Next time i am gonna try this method. I need more practice. THANK YOU for the excellent video and informations! you are a lifesaver to all of us amateurs doing a hobby !
Thanks for these videos bud they are so helpful to people who like to tinker
Thanks bud glad to help
What's funny is how literally no one on yt doing HDMI port swaps has had issues by using the average sized nozzle. I think this is more an exercise of overthinking a perceived problem more than it is an appreciable help.
Thanks for this, really appreciate you sharing this time saving technique.
Hey man thanks,always love your vids.
Thanks man. I really appreciate your willingness to share the knowledge that experience has afforded you. I have fudged more than 1, and I think a lot of it comes down to using quality tools and consumables. Thaid said, practice makes perfect...
Thanks for showing that!
Hi mate I just wanted to say thankyou so much just used this technique and it works a dream!!! Keep up the informative videos and thanks again
Thanks for explaining!!
What i do is before putting the new hdmi connector i put flux and soldwr to the connector pins as well as the main board pins. ( a tiny amount). And when i put the hdmi connector solders perfect. I use the same technic as you .pre heat before putting the connector so the connector doesnt overheat to long exposure to high temperatures.
Excellent video. Im fixing my sons xbox 1s. HDMI port and timing IC failures. This has come in very handy. Many thanks.
I love this type of content. Wish there was more!
Skilled tradesmen have a way about knowledge transmission between the journeymen and the master - this is one of those kinds of videos. I really appreciate this, even though I'm not a fellow that does this sort of work - but the point still stands. Thank you for creating these latest videos - it's the kind of stuff that really helps people that want to do this vs providing great entertainment (which i still enjoy nonetheless). Epic vid, Phil. Thanks for the extra effort mate.
Very good video there Phil. I fall into the nozzle category, and whilst 80% of the time I get no issues, I do sometimes come across subborn ones. Will give this method a try as I'm all for making life easier!! Liking your scope stand.... found em on Ali and might treat myself.
Very interesting, thank you.
Great tips!
Great, tip / method i will be using this in the future for sure.
Another great tutorial. The difference between the two techniques is huge!
Your way is quick, clean and more precise. The other way is time consuming, with a
chance of torn pads and ruined HDMI ports which in turn is money down the drain.
Great stuff. Thank you.
As someone just learning how to use a hot air station: this was incredible advice!
good job mate!
I was definitely doing it wrong. That was a Great video on Microsoldering Techniques! Thank You. 🙃
Great video. We need more of this tips.
That's a solid iron tip 😉
you're the best man , i really appreciate it, love from algeria
great video, thanks
So, I'm in the southern USA, and I'm just starting out and it looks like I'm going to have to do a lot of these even though it's not what I was expecting I would be doing.. GPU's and MOB's was going to be my main thing, but so far I'm seeing a lot of consoles and Laptops. I made the mistake of watching North Ridge do a PS4/PS5 (Even though I don't care for how he does things) I watched it and thought it looked overly complicated, so thank you for making this because it's really going to help me. I'm suppose to start taking in these console boards once my Yihua 993 DM-IV gets here and I'll let you know how it goes.
Thank you again. -Neptune Repair labs
I'v never done a hdmi repair before but I'm sure I will and with the tips and advice from your video. Thank you for sharing your technique Awesome Video's.💯😊
Legend - thanks for posting this
Put ya nozzle on that’s what she said lol
Make sure to cover your nozzle with something too 😝
@@TheCod3r gotta practice safe soldering lol 😜
Might be a daft question from a non tech, but applying hot air from underneath the board - do caps etc in the vacinity not move around or fall off being upside down?
Factory solder is quite good, board is quite thick so heat goes away quick is you don't touch anything around 3cm area nothing will fly off. Also you do it from the bottom to not melt actual port which contains plastic
@@TheOssom at 8:45 you can see that there are components in the middle of the poin were he put hot air, I don't understand how this component don't fall, it are under the HDMI port not near, under.
The board absorbs a lot of heat, and since heat rises, it works its way to the top; making the surface components on the top able to be reworked. Because of this the components on the bottom are safe unless you have the airflow too high and the nozzle too close to the board.
Really really useful.
Nice work.
Thank you brother
Handy Hint: On a PS5 HDMI port you can use a small piece of sticky aluminium foil to cover the bottom of the port whilst dropping it in from bottom heat, otherwise the port will be demolished from the heat underneath.
If you are having that issue you should move the heat slightly back so less is hitting the front of the port
Just done 2 ports in 5 minutes. Amazing technique.
Excellent video mate. Get sleep though as someone who's nervous system started to fail due to lack of sleep for many, many years please get sleep. I had bioptic neuritis, and was blind for a week.
Tinning the leads on the port is also helpful.
I replaced a Series X HDMI a while ago, that board was so thick it was taking all the heat I could give it and laughing back at me :) I had to go nozzle-less to get enough heat in!
Wow Thanks bro 🏆‼️👍🏾
Hello, I follow the board repairs you do and am amazed every time.
Also want to start making repairs, a silly little question, how many degrees do you use the soldering iron? In Blower you use 440 degrees to remove the HDMI connection.
Great Instructional video. Very helpful!!! 2 Minutes and Bob's your Uncle!
I am very new to this, and so far have never done a HDMI port. But the main issue I have when removing components with hot air is that other smaller components in the area can come off the board, especially if they are smaller than the item you are desoldering.
The addition of kapton tape may limit the smaller components from moving.
When i was 1st learning ports i was always sceptical or worried about the flux dripping back into the hot air nozzle when coming from the bottom then catching fire but until u actually try this method u then realise how much easier it actually was and worrying about the flux was really setting me back in my 1st couple years. My advice just give it a go you have nothing to lose trying it.
That's actually a thing though bud and I should have mentioned it really. I've had flux drip on my hand a few times but it is very very rare if you don't flood the board with flux
I’ve been doing it this way for years, goes so much faster and gets more durable joints as well
Ive done loads of these on ps5....bit of heat reflective tape to none of the diodes or caps go walkabout and set something weighty on the opposite end of the board (bottle of iso is heavy enough and plastic so won't damage anything heat from the bottom on full flow@480 and set the new port into place with a pair of pointy nose pliers instead of tweezers to give you a bit more leverage when the heats still going after pulling the original port and job done....Obviously only works if the solders still good on the pads but 90% of the time it usually is.
It would be nice if you can show potential repair technicians a typical stock of replacement parts that you typically use. Capacitors, HDMI ports, and so on. I think this would be a good addition to your tutoring videos for those people who may be wanting to get into the console repair business.
Everything he uses is pretty much on hos store
What are the settings that you are using with the hot air and soldering stations?
Nice work. Do you have a tutorial on removing chips off a board.
Thanks codr , i recently did a Nintendo switch lite with the nozzle off , i ended using a BBQ glove to put the new one back on LoL kinda felt like fire Marshal bill there until i got the glove.
That's exactly what I did, try to repair a hdmi port on ps4 pro and after 10 minutes of heating up, I used more force to get the port of and yeah... All little pads are gone. Rip
thanks for the video, iam an amateur, the desoldering worked well but the soldering of the little hdmi pads was a nightmare, is it bcs of a bad soldering iron (tips) , flux and soldering wires?
We've stopped using leaded solder because it's illegal to use it here in the UK on modern electronics. You can be fined up to £5000 for that. So, we had to switch to an unleaded one ;). The rest of the tutorial is OK, but, when the board is thick and I want to do each HDMI port in less than 10 minutes, I use iron with a hot air. This way it takes less than 2 minutes to take out the port. And that can be a cheap T12 iron with K tip and cheapest hot air for around £20-25, so the total equipment for less than £50 ;).
I think you're using more temp than we do, we use 350 degrees, if the time is correct, I'd say you use 450 degrees ish.
Wow! £5000? that's messed up. I would hate to only use unleaded solder.
@@sonyx5332 I use only lead free and and I do all the time. I've made aware my technicians as well and from what I know they all use the same one. I can't catch what they're doing at home :D, but see what they are doing here, using what's available. So, better safe than sorry ;). Plus, you can get a low melt as well. But, to be true, I'd say if you've got practise, you should be fine without leaded ;).
FFS 😂😂, I did an xbox 1s HDMI Port for my nephew earlier today, had to pull one from one of my donor beep on beep off boards. The Quick on 480c / 120 air with the 10mm angled nozzle. Heated from the top to drop the damaged port away then used the heat from bottom drop in method and did what you did and dropped it. Got it with the tweezers and 3rd time around got it in place. Had to touch up 5 pins. 46 mins including dismantling m, re-assembly and testing on tv.
Great channel, anyway is there a way of testing a Booster IC Chip ESD PXD for Microsoft Xbox One S before placing on board any help would be great ?
Thanks you much , it’s here to understand for me because iam French but thanks a lot
I have a question, i have the Liquid metal for the main heatsink. that's no issue. my problem is someone wiped off the gap filling paste off the mofettes. what do you use for those? everything i have seams to be for contact heatsinks... Thank you
Wow mate this is unbelievable skill like im 2min13sec well done i never saw someone done this in 2min . Btw how much degree is soldier
Hi, can you tell me what temperature do you set your soldering? 440° hot air, and soldering?
i have to ask,i have a donor board, of a xbox one S donor board, and when i tried to desolder the hdmi, it just straight up burnt, and didnt desolder, im only using ior for testing but it never got upto correct temps, would no nozzle heat up better and more accurately?
Well, you've eventually forced me to get back into repairs..... just ordered the infiray p2 pro earlier to assist my eyes 😂
I havent even started yet!
9:12 what about with small component in the bottom??
Does anyone know if game stop does this or any other shop because this recently happened to my xbox and I don’t have the tools necessary to do it myself
Starting at 14:35 ... how are you getting solder to flow onto the pads??? For the life of me, I can't do this :(
Isn't there the danger the tiny component (cap?) on the bottom will fall off/get blown away?
Hi dude, love the work u do Ive been doing very basic repairs at my end for a year or 2 to get by paying for very high nursery fees here, but I'd like to ask a question if OK.
I've had a few hdmi port repairs come back to me after 2 weeks or so with them either loose or pins come of the solder pads. I'm thinking quality of ports I'm getting.
Where do you get your ports from please cheers mate
Cheers mate, hopefully you keep upping your game and keep improving. I'd say it's possibly the ports but maybe look into the amount of solder you're using on the ground legs or maybe your technique before you assume it's the ports if I'm being honest. I use the drop method because it works flawlessly if you can get it right but it does take practice. In general though I buy ports from AliExpress and I don't normally have any issues with them
@@TheCod3r I'm glad you get from Ali too I thought it was the connectors. I've tried the solder individual pins method.
Low melt solder pads then clean up then flood them with normal solder then heat up from under board and then drop in the port, then fine tip to make sure the pins are soldered on, I do check with tweezers and also push the port with my thumbs to make sure the port does not move too.
I'm thinking I'm not getting the board hot enough for pads to flow, it's a leaning curve. Just annoys me when it doesn't work. I'm a perfectionist well try to be.
Cheers for any tips nice one
@wildstyle42 yeah to be honest Ali ports these days are pretty good. Maybe this video will help you: czcams.com/video/pcdsfq9DPl8/video.html 😄
What temperature do you have the soldering iron when you run your iron over the pins with unleaded solder?
Runs his iron around 400 mate
mint installs
phil if you turn the board over and heat it would gravity make it fall off without damage
If I send you my tablet mobo to replace the charging port can you?
Can you please make video from A to Z how to downgred ps4 by using BwE and what tools we need to make this.
Don't use BwE tools. They're full of spyware! Also I don't get involved in modding, sorry
Welcome to the Sorin's world. :>
No, You are doing it wrong, Phil.... LOL cheers
That's why they invented low melt solder
Low melt is for wimps 😅
That was a short lived vacation. 😉
It's a pity that manufactures dont put locatings pins on the items & have hole in the boards. It would help technicians doing repairs, but also make board assembly easier for manufactures.
I am a newbie who doesnt dare try this kind of thing. I have a question though. Could you not remover all the solder, tin the pin pads. lower the port into place, solder the pins and then fill in the anchor points/ground holes?
I assume there's a reason, just wondering
It is possible that way but the way I do it is not only much faster but it also gives much better results. If you remove the solder from the ground holes and add the solder with the port in place the solder doesn't always go all the way through, which can cause the port to be weaker than usual
@@TheCod3r ah I see. You'd need solder in the section of ground holes that would be under the port in each corner (if that makes sense) . Thus more prone to ripping pads because it wouldn't be fully secure.
Thanks for the reply. Especially on a comment on a 6 month old video. I've been watching tronicsfix and joeydoestech and was recommended yourself and a couple of others. I appreciate the reply.
@@gavinbar1988 Yeah, you've got it, bud. My pleasure, glad to have you here
its not that others are doing it wrong its that you are very persnickety ... and rightly so ;) Doing it wrong would be the equivalent of me farting on the solder points and expecting something to happen.
😂😂
Not a fair comparison when your heating the 2nd board from the bottom. Always less likely to not damage the port.
Still a good educational video for others though 👍
Yeah but that's kinda the point of the demonstration. Showing how I've seen it done more often than not and then showing the correct way 😉
Thanks, Nozzle removed!
Ive been doing this since day one haha
Ставлю тебе 10/10
Captions say your name's "Theoda". Taking that as gospel.
Haha it usually says "Dakota" so it seems it's improving at least 😅
Why heat it from below? Turn the board around and put heat from the top instead and the HDMI port will fall out by itself.
But phill . You can pin point with the nozzle. ( sarcasm )