Saab 9-3 2003 - 2006 Joying 8.8 inch Aftermarket Radio and Reverse Cam - Fibre Optics and ICM Bypass
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- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- Upgraded head unit with satellite navigation, Bluetooth hands-free and streaming, Android Auto, Reverse Camera, whilst retaining car warning sounds
Joying head unit links:
UK - ebay.us/MibR8t
US- amzn.to/3VUAT27
Steering Wheel Canbus Decoder - ebay.us/zP93Gq
Video contents:
0:00 Intro
01:01The Theory
04:27 What Audio Spec on Your 9-3?
05:27 Ditching the ICM
06:24 Head Unit Wiring
07:13 Basic Speaker Connection
11:00 I have factory amps, can I avoid aftermarket amps?
13:04 Fitting the amps
16:35 Dash modification
18:33 Installing the Head Unit
19:30 Reverse Camera Installation
After-thoughts:
You don't need to keep the stock amps in place, you could just loop back the fibre cables and then remove them completely. - Věda a technologie
Hey Stuart, what adapter did you hook up on the green wire behind the CIM to make the steering wheel controls work? Did you hook up on the I-Bus? Some android units have the learn-button thing, do you think it might work without any adapter?
Any chance you get night panel to shut the screen off but keep audio etc going?
@ Saab Unleashed is there a modulator, like the one used for the Bose systems in the GM vehicles. Where the Bose speaker system are still used, with the after market head unit, wether it has video, or not, and all noises are still produced.
I did this setup different with success. I bypassed EHU/CD with loopback and moved EHU to AMP1 position. Then connect center channel to EHU for chimes and turn signals. I soldered new wires to door speakers from AMP 1 to trunk/boot, then ran a 6-channel amp. All other wiring is the same from your video accept for steering wheel controls. I opted to take Analog stalk signal directly from CIM and then used an Axxess SWC-1 to head unit. This is better than canbus because you get more buttons to program (although phone button still doesn't work).
Very interesting, thanks for sharing. I'll have to try this method next time
@djfremen what wires did you have to connect the Axxess SWC-1 to?
@@subscriptmds8900 there a two bright green wires behind speedometer (remove fascia). They look the same but only one works. You'll have to test and it's a 50%. I used the quick connect slice rather than cutting the wire.
@@djfremen Thanks for your quick reply.
@@djfremen Sorry, one more question, was that the pink wire from the Axxess SWC-1 connected to the green wire? Or a different wire from the SWC-1?
very useful video
gentlemen alw I have a question, can you turn on Polish subtitles
Would it not be possible to bypass Amp1 and the CD player with a loop back connector? I have the 7 speaker setup
Yes you can, I meant to say it in the video but added that to the description
Nice work looks the bees knees
How you put the saab display on screen?
Hi mate mega video answered all but 1 question. Is the stereo out of a saab if so which 1 and if not what is it? Thank you 4 taking the time to make this video it really helped me do our 06 9-3
It's litterally in the title and there's a link to it in the video description
I really want to do this to my 06 Aero because my amp1 blew and I don’t have a radio anymore. Do you think you could put out a parts list to make it easier for anyone who wants to follow this tutorial? Thanks!
I can, but the only major component is the new radio and an amp (or two if you have amp2). Everything else is just wiring. Feel free to reach out to me on Facebook if you want to chat about options
I got I think the same head unit - I have the rear camera installed so far and ran the required cables. Odd thing is that I have this short (less than 1 sec) flicker on the read camera LED lights when the car is not in reverse and even without the car being turned on. I changed the ground to a different location, but same thing. IN reverse the camera works fine just that when not in reverse I get this flicker. It is pretty much every 3 secs almost exactly without missing a beat. I am thinking perhaps there is a power trickle happening that is just enough to light up the LEDs there is not screen image flicker only the LED light up every 3 secs for just a quick flash of light and then off and then 3 secs later again - over and over. I am thinking of putting in a resistor in the line. Amy thoughts ?
not sure if you did get this fixed but a resistor would work here, basically all exterior led bulbs installed in the saab will flicker due to that being how the car auto checks the bulbs are working. Since leds take less power to light up that small amount that wouldn't like the old flourecent bulbs do light up the led bulbs. There is also a program you can get like a "tune" for your car that disables/makes it use less power not exactly sure what it does but takes the flicker away on the whole car, think its about $100 to get it though.
where are those iso connectors located ?
Any advice for retaining steering controls? And did you have to mess around with Divorce/Marriage for the ICM1?
The ICM units don't need to be married/married. That being said, if the car you took it from had less features, you will lose those features unless you switch them back on with a tech2. In my case, the reverse sensors were disabled and I had to turn them back on
You have put so much time and effort into this... That's why it's very sad to see you just left the AMP1 and AMP2 there and even connected etc, instead of really bypassing the optics, as you say. You could've make a loop... Whatever. I mean, thanks for this, it explains a lot to other people that are just looking around and thinking of what and how to do. But somehow, I had my high expectations.
I did this conversion with items laying on my garage. I didn't have the adaptors needed for a good loop back and I didn't want to bodge it. So for this, I left everything in place
Hi Stuart, i have just hacked my icm1. Not taken the board out of the metal casing just yet. I was wondering whether it is even necessary. It surely offers better protection.
You don't need to take it out of the metal case, but there's not a great deal of space in the dashboard.
En faite, le cc3 n est pas beaucoup plus grand.
C est un peu limite niveau taille, pour naviguer sur le web avec ça, non?
Not sure if you are still on this page, but was wondering why you need to replace the factory amps? can't you still use them since you still have them wired/powered on? Also, I do have a stock sub on my car but I guess it's cuz mine is a Sportscombi. How would I go about having that sub working? or would I need to completely rewire and get new amps?
You can't use the factory amps because the audio input is through a proprietary optical interface, so there's no way to provide them audio with an aftermarket setup. You also don't need to keep the amps in place like I did in this video, instead you can use fibre loop adaptors.
Your factory sub will need to be wired to an aftermarket amp if you want to continue to use it.
Remember this information is only relevant if you have a car built between 2003-2006
@@SaabUnleashed oh okay, so i mean putting them where the factory ones are probably helps with the speaker wiring right? and I have subs/amps already that I had installed already but I guess I can maybe add the factory sub to that amp as well. Can you share a link of which exactly fibre loop adapters I need. Tried tooling up some but there are different kinds online so just want to double-check to make sure to get the correct ones. I had whole set up on my 09(pair of 12's, upgraded door speakers, 10 inch touchscreen center unit, amps, and rear camera), but it got it got hit and well i had this older 9-3 that ima get running so wanted to fit all that into this one lol hassle yeah but rather hassle a bit than just not use any of that set up anymore.
Does your blinker sound, sid and steering wheel control still work?
The indicator (blinker) sounds do still work along with all the rest of the various sounds. The SID is a different system and isn't affected by this so yes that still works. The steering controls I will follow up with a separate video, but yes, this unit is compatible with steering input
@@SaabUnleashed Well, then ur build is pretty insane. Congrats
Do you have a video to do the single din mod ?
I'd like that too.
@@BenjaminUller I'm still with my icm2, but now I've wired in a Bluetooth module to the back, runs off the aux.
Freaking awesome mod! I see that you have also have an LG phone ICM3 mod, which mod do you prefer?
They're for different things. The ICM3 mod is a quick easy upgrade, but there are some minor limitations on options because you're restricted to the Saab's stock system. This video shows a full aftermarket system that gives you full control over sound and full options on components, so if you have the time and inclination, going aftermarket is always best
@@SaabUnleashed I really want to give this mod a try, would this be pretty similar for the Sportcombi Wagon? Also, do you know if integration of rear and dash recording would work?
@@ArcticCenter3773 Yes, this works for all versions of the 9-3 (2003-2006) so can be done for you. The only difference is the location of the rear amp and speakers
Awesome job Stuart, when you swapped from ICM3 -> ICM1 did you divorce/marry the units? Or did you just plug and play them? Would love to do the same to mine, but cuttin up a ICM3 seems a bit wasteful.
Yeah, don't cut up an ICM3! ICMs don't need to be married and the majority of features that might be enabled / disabled on them via tech2 you will be removing anyway (stock amps, aux in ect). If you have auto wipers, I believe that is also controlled via the ICM unit too, so you may lose that if the ICM1 doesn't have it enabled, at least until you switch it on with a tech2
@@SaabUnleashed Awesome thanks for the clarification!
@@L1NKU5 FYI, I realised this week that the reverse sensors no longer sound, this is because the ICM1 came from a poverty spec Saab which had no reverse sensors, so I have to use the Tech2 to enable them on this ICM1
But still, no marrying required
@@SaabUnleashed sweet! Luckily i have a ICM1 that previously was married to The car so i should be able to just swap it out and keep all functions 👍
Any News on The steeringwheel Buttons yet? 😁
What's the name of the white connector your'e using for the speaker wires?
Electrical block
@@SaabUnleashed thank you!
If I were to modify my top vent, could this fit flush in the dash?
Yes indeed although it would be very difficult to do that. Although I will point out that the cupholder still works even though this is not flush
@@SaabUnleashed Some chap I believe on Saab Central was able to fit a tablet in, he said it took some cutting of the top vent. I have a few spares, maybe it'll be fun to experiment with!
Hi, I am a little confused on the video. On the EHU loom you said there is Front left & Right, centre and Rear left and rear right. On the speak side of the EHU connect there is 8 wires. Should be 10 if including Centre. I do not have a centre speak but I see a wire as Yellow/white + Purple/White so 2 are missing from my understanding yet sound comes from all 4 speakers.
The centre speaker terminates at Amp1, that was my mistake
@@SaabUnleashed thanks for your help Stuart. I managed to finish mine. I added a Connects 2 harness so I did not cut many wires and I opted for the 10.25 inch screen which almost covers the whole ICM area.
@@jatkaler5735 sounds awesome. I would be interested to know what connects2 loom you used
@@SaabUnleashed I got the CT10SA01. I had to swap the constant power lead pin as it was in the wrong place. I just used the 12V power lead from the Cig Lighter as you mentioned. Upside to this is that I can use the factory stereo if I wanted to switch back as I did not cut the original harness. Downside is that it gets quite congested at the back. Only thing I need to do is attempt the steering wheel control.
@@jatkaler5735 I see! What did you do about the door speakers?
14:31 I heard that there is an optical jumper bypass you can buy to avoid this issue.
I just noticed you still have the old CD player. Does this still work? If so then how is that operated?
It doesn't work, it serves the purpose of keeping the dash complete
@@SaabUnleashed Did you connect the original harness back onto the CD player? Also did you remove the speak wires from the harness and spliced onto the new and the centre speak wire you just moved onto either L or R on the original stock harness?
cap holder is still working with this head unit?
Yes
@ 10:30 you mention not to cut the center channel wires from the Loom - however the center channel with the AMP1 system has not wire from that Loom to the Center channel as it gets that signal from the Amp under the seat. I am thinking that I keep that wire Like it is from the Announcement/Beeps etc.. to the center channel and then add a amp for the Door speakers. My car has no bigger speakers in the back shelf only the tweeters so I might add a pair to that and add a 2nd amp in the trunk for that purpose.
The beeps com out over every speaker except the centre. So when you cut all the speakers away from the loom, you need to attach the centre speaker to one of the other 4 speaker outputs on the original system so that all of your beeps come out of the centre speaker, and all of the other speakers are driven by the new head unit.
@@SaabUnleashed OK thanks - I will tie that into one of the speaker outputs - Rather than hunt that down in the dash somewhere, I think I will run another audio cable from the dash to under the seat where AMP1 was and tie the connection in there.
@@333cparker No, you just need a wire from the centre speaker to the EHU, no need to go to AMP1 at all. I'm not sure if the warning sounds are even sent to the doors. Juat the dash speakers and rears.
@@SaabUnleashed I agree on the door - I dont think that the warning sounds do. However is the sound comes out the center speaker on the stock setup, the only way it get there with the 7+ speaker setup is through AMP1... Correct ??
I can try it out and see while the seat is still pulled back.
@@333cparker you're looking at it backwards. The warning sounds don't come out of the centre speaker by default, so there's no reason to use amp1 connection point at all.
The warning sounds only come out of the 4 speakers I mentioned, so you need to run a cable from the centre speaker in the dash to the EHU, also in the dash
Can this mod be done to a 05 9-3 convertible?
Yes, it's the same car
doesn't i sound bad to have the center speaker playing music on the left/right channel with everything else?
The centre speaker doesn't play music. It just provides the cars warning sounds
@@SaabUnleashed well that's pretty strange because it did play music before I removed it
@@abdomination yes sorry, I misinterpreted what you meant. They do play music when set up in the original stock method. But to answer your question, no, it doesn't sound bad to lose this speaker.
@@SaabUnleashed no so if you wire the center speaker to the left or right channel wouldn't it play the left or right channel from your new head unit That's what I was confused about
@@abdomination ah I see where you're coming from. No, you wire the centre speaker to the left or right of the cars original EHU. This leaves the centre speaker the only remaining speaker still connected to the cars stock system. The reason you're wiring it to the left or right channel of the stock system is because the car warnings were never outputted through the centre speaker, only the left and right channels
This looks like a massive pain in the backside! Mines a ICM1 with door and rear speakers but no sign of an amp. I think I'll end up frying something if I attempt this!
If you have door speakers, your amp will be under the passenger seat unless it's a convertible, in which case it is behind the side-panel behind the left front seat
@@SaabUnleashed Cheers Stuart! spot on found it!
MOT not completed. Do you still have the car?
My friend has it and he is currently in Greece, it'll be MOTd next week. Should be interesting
@@SaabUnleashed oh ok cool, glad your keeping this one alive 👍🏽👏🏽
Can you tell me Amp name and spec!?
www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-ED7300-Channel-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B00TBC781W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Edge+amp&qid=1600163276&quartzVehicle=36-1974&replacementKeywords=amp&sr=8-3
Hi where abouts are you
I appreciate the effort to document this, but in my opinion, it's a bodge job. wrapping the icm in tape, using normal electrical tape to insulate wires.. You know the tape will release an get sticky all over when summer is coming.. Using self-amalgamating tape would be a good first step to proper insulation.. screw connectors are not reliable in cars, please learn how to use proper shrink connectors. Use connectors without plastic collar, after shrinking (with proper shrink pliers), use shrink tube. I've found it hard to watch the practices in this video.
I bought this car specifically to do this install. It was very much an experiment to show what was possible, and yes, it was a bodge job that could have been done much more professionally. You'll see me using a soldering iron and heat shrink in other videos.
@@SaabUnleashed great!
Ha perdido los botones del volante?
Temporalmente. Estoy en el proceso de decodificar el canbus para los botones de dirección. Se arreglará pronto
Is it possible to make the climate control in the head unit?
Is it possible? Yes. Has it been done? No. The amount of work that you would need to put in to decode the cars climate system signals and write software to interpret them for the android OS user interface would be crazy.
It's fucking awful how it's designed
It was revolutionary at the time!