How To Manipulate Washer Drain Pipes - Rough Plumbing Examples
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- čas přidán 10. 12. 2012
- www.homebuildin... Click on this link to learn more about plumbing and some of the problems plumbers will encounter, while building and remodeling homes. Watch this video to learn more ways to hook up a rough plumbing waste system and its pipes to a wash machine drain box. The best plumbers, carpenters and home builders are the ones who know how to manipulate building materials and still create a product that's functional and easy to use. The tips in my videos and websites can easily be used by most do-it-yourselfers and even professionals who are interested in learning more about the construction industry. Don't forget to visit our websites, check out some of our books and of course keep watching these helpful videos.
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Thank you very much just the info I was looking for perfect.
Glad I could help
Good video good points of view the same things but in a different stage. Good job. I've been doing plumbing for 5 years now and I'm still learning and this kinda of views had helped me to open my mind and be more creative in tuff situations like this. Thumbs up to your videos.
I need to keep the drain pipe high for proper drainage from a washing machine. We wish to install a simple utility sink cabinet instead of our old laundry tub. Can I bring the drain pipe straight down for a foot and then angle it 45 degrees to go through into the cabinet to hook into the plumbing which is now inside the cabinet. Everything else would remain the same as it is now attached, just a slightly lengthened pipe (on the angled portion) to reach outside of the cabinet. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer.
Nice to see a few examples of options you have to make it work, from the perspective of stud layout.
If you put a trap on that T for the wash tub sink, but you don’t have a wash tub sink, you just have the P trap to up pipe that just stops right above the T, will the washer water back up through that and spill onto the floor? I need a drain like this to drip an ice maker condensate and bin (melted ice) into.I’m using the cold water line for the wash tub to feed a filter, then the ice maker. I was going to try to build a drain to go out the wall, but the wall is block then there is a water heater, then my airconditioner, plenum, then another wall, and that block wall is 15ft away and this drain is right behind the ice maker. I’d have to raise the ice maker up about 2ft so it can have an air gap from the 1” ice maker drain to the P trap.
My concern is the washing machine will flood the room by coming through the second trap up and over and onto the floor. This is a finished garage that is air conditioned, drywalled, etc so I really can’t have dirty clothes water going all over the floor.
Thoughts?
This is done better in the US than in the Netherlands. Because usually the drain is not wall recessed in the Netherlands. A major "design" bathroom construction company in the Netherlands said they aren't making these things recessed.
I'm going to design an washer + boiler drain combination myself. Of course wall recessed and comply to the dutch regulations (bouwbesluit). With an nice turquoise aluminum anodized entry.
Does the black piping have to be a certain distance in between the trap area and the white area at the top?
Yes. It’s called a stand pipe and should be between 18 and 30 inches long.
@@MacMilly707Thank you
SUPER helpful! I've been looking for this info for a long time! Thank you!
Nice examples of taking initiative and using creativity to install a drain pipe.
Sometimes all it takes is a little planning and I think that's the point I'm trying to get across to anyone making a home repair, remodeling or building something new.
This was very helpful in my design for my apartment building laundry room. Thank you!
I'm glad it helped and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the options and clearing this up. I replaced the washer machine drain pipe from 1 1/2 to 2 inches as per code but the main drain line is 1 1/2 inches. ( 45 year old flat on second floor) Does the pluming code permit tying the the 2 inch to the 1 1/2 main drain?
Thanks
I am wanting to move my washer to another room. I plan on putting the trap under the box as shown, but then the horizontal pipe has to go 8’ down the interior wall, turn, and another 5’ to the drain and vent of the original location. Concrete slab. My other option is to go the 8’ along the interior wall, and then exit the building and dig a trench to bury it to a ditch.
Pictures and voice over great. I learn so much from these.
Question for all...Do I need a vent for the washing machine drain? (Drainage will be going through a box like this video.)
I don't think I need a vent; but, if I do...how does one do it and place it?
Thanks.
Yeah, I actually got the idea for this video, while looking at one picture and remembering that I had others. A picture truly is worth 1000 words.
The water supply pipe sizes can vary, but in most cases, most plumbing building codes require a 2 inch diameter sized waste pipe for wash machine drains. However, if you're building something that's going to be inspected, make sure you check with your local building department for clarification. Some of the information I share on my videos, might not be applicable in your area.
I got one for you. I'm connecting a washing machine, (with drain hose and 2" trap) into a 4" PVC waste line on the second floor right below a bathroom on the top floor. Should I use a 4" sanitary tee or a 4" tee wye. And how would I vent this using a laundry box for my drain with hot & cold-water valves?
Email me a few pictures and I will see if I can help.
Nice! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching.
Thanks for your vid. Is that a 1 1/2 inch drain or 2? Thanks.
2 inch for wash machine.
Thank you
Welcome.
I'm not familiar with sharks, unless you're talking about those large fish that swim in the ocean. If you're referring to those press on couplings, I think I would rather solder them, but remember this is only my personal preference.
Short sweep 90 in the pic going into the drain will fail inspection
This is a good reason why I often suggest contacting your local building department or building authorities to verify information on the Internet. This method of installation is an approved method in Southern California, but might not be in other parts of the world.
Interesting examples. I see that a few of them could have been avoided by different and possibly better methods. The last one looks particularly bad. It looks as though the plumber was attempting to make the already purchased box work. They could have used a normal P-trap and a box with the vent located on the left side.
Side note, that last picture... Am I seeing this right. Do they squeeze electrical cables behind plywood for the opposite side of that wall instead of drilling a hole through the stud!!? Then just strung it along between each stud also? If so, this is all sorts of wrong.
I have definitely seen plumbers, electricians and heating and air-conditioning installers do a variety of things that usually end up making the job more difficult and as far as electrical wires, I've seen them do a variety of confusing things.
Klaus Welch that is a double 2x4 wall, and the romex is between the studs
Some may justify it because it is Romex, but this, to me, is purly irresponsible. Kinda like the Noob builder that had my dryer venting into my attic.
MeTaz the romex as installed meets building code. a dryer vent terminating in an attic does not meet code.
Thank You for information!
I here question, watt is minimum dimension from box to water trips ???
Thank You 🙏
I would verify that information with your local building department.
I would imagine it could, but I'm not familiar with any building requirements or codes that would suggest otherwise. I guess what I'm trying to say is that as long as there's a trap blocking drainage pipe waste gases located in between the fixture and the drain pipes, it should be okay. Don't forget that you can always contact your local building department for more information.
You're welcome and I'm glad it helped.
Hi, Can you send the washer drain down to the utility basement and install the P trap there below the joists? I'm thinking about doing that because there are several iron pipe tees and clean out stuff where I would have to place the trap according to your video, so my plan is to send it straight down to the basement. Thanks.
I've never seen that done before, so I think I would say no and try to keep the trap above the floor line.
What's the white plastic housing between the studs that holds the hot/water valves? and is there a standard height that it must be installed? I'm trying to lower the unit to hide it behind the washer/dryer...cover with a countertop and install a backsplash for a clean look. thank you for any advice in advance.
Its called a washer box. Menards has one that you can locate drain and supplies in separate locations. Height is usually 42" from the floor.
I am researching relocating laundry appliances to another room. I have watched a few videos concerning Studor vents.
Local inspector does not recommend them for washers. Yet, a plumber was actually wanting to use one I think.
Are you a plumber?
Comment on Studor valve for washer?
Btw, from the estimates I have gotten to just run my vent through the roof and connecting to main sewer, I have considered putting them back in the kitchen where they have been since 1962.
The main sewer might be about 14’ from where I was wanting to place the washer drain. Plumber mentioned just running the drain to that point and stubbing the vent off in the attic. Not sure if he was including using the Studor vent.
If I use the Studor, I have a box to install in the wall to allow access.
My understanding is Studor vent still needs to be connected to an open air/ through the roof vent within a certain distance.
If you're building department or inspectors allow it, then you can use them. I'm not a big fan of them, but sometimes they are the only way.
@@gregvancom Correction: plumber inspector does NOT recommend Studor vent for washer.
Gregvancom I have a question . I have a setup like the one you show in the first part of the video . I want to add a drain line somewhere below where the drain water goes in and run another pipe out side into a drainage system so the washing machine drain water won't go into the septic tank I have . Here is the way I was thinking I should connect it . First I was going to put a T a bout half way between the drain opening and the original trap and just below the T I was going to add a on /off valve so I could use the original set up once we get the city sewer system in our area . On the T going horizontal I was going to immediately add another cut off valve and after that shut off valve I was going to add a trap after the trap I was going to add a T and send one line out side to the drainage system just for the washing machine and the other part of the T going to the vent where I'm going to add a T in the vent line . Here is my question once I connect the T into the vent line will the septic fumes go out with the drain line and into the drainage system or will the fumes just go straight up and out like it would with out a T being added ? Should I not connect into the vent line and just add another one once I'm outside and sent it up the side of the house ? What do you think is the best way to add a extra drain line to go straight out side and into a leech line for washing machine water but leave the option to use it in the original way in the future ?
If you're going to run a separate drain line, then don't connect it to your existing drain pipes. If you're going to reconnect it latter, then plan for it so you can connect it as easy as possible. Let me know if this did not answer your questions.
@@gregvancom I was worried about tapping into the vent line and the sewer gases going into the drain line and coming out through the leach line I was going to install for the washing machine water and it smelling up the outside . Will gas go straight up and out the vent or could it work its way into the leach line ? I think if I put a few cut off valves that I can open and close I will be able to switch from the main drain line that goes to the septic tank to outside washing machine leach line . I just didn't want sewer smell coming from the sewer tank and going into the washing machine leach line and smelling up the place . I know the gas is not going to get into the house because I'll have a 2nd trap for the washing machine water drain .
Thanks for the video it is helpful to see how people work around challenges.
i am adding a washer and even a sink into a completely new location, I do not have access to the vent pipe since there is none nearby. Can I use one of those check valves that will only allow air to enter but not stinky gasses to exit? Can i pretty much use these types of one way vents anywhere? Lastly, any suggestion on type or heights? Thnx!
You would need to check with your local building department to see if you could use air admittance valve's. However, I do understand that most people don't want to check with the local building's and if that's the case, I've heard good and bad reviews about this product, but understand that they need to be installed when there is no access or it's too difficult to install a vent.
It helps not too sure one of those is to code but...
.
It's hard to tell if you're suggesting that an example in the video wouldn't meet local building codes and if you are suggesting that, could you provide me with which one in the video you think it is and maybe a building code reference number to support your claim.
Thanks!
You're welcome
With the use of an Oatey laundry box, If I were to lower the box so the top of the drain pipe is 28”, could I put the p-trap below the floor? I have a crawl space.
Did you ever get a answer on this? I’m thinking of doing the same thing
@@railroadmule I had put the trap below the floor because of not enough room in the wall. I have a front load washer and the drain pipe
Is about 20”
Above the floor. I broke the code, but at least my trap is serviceable and not behind a wall which in my opinion is worse than having it below the floor. We are in Charleston so I insulated the P-trap to hopefully prevent a frozen trap….
Is there a diameter limit that can be cut at the wall studs
Yes there is and this might be helpful. Let me know if you didn't find what you're looking for and I will look again, because I'm pretty sure I've already made a video about this.
czcams.com/video/nVFIOAI-IYc/video.html&feature=emb_title
@@gregvancom thank you very much I really appreciate the detail information you provide
Hi there
Question do you know what size piping for the washer drain i would need to use?
The most common used sized pipe for a wash machine has a 2 inch inside diameter. This product can usually be found at your local home improvement stores or plumbing supply warehouses.
The waste pipes should be 2 inches in diameter and in this particular case, the water supply pipes are a half-inch in diameter.
Thanks for helping me out.
Do you have to place the drainage trap in the wall cavity? What if you have a basement area or crawl space to the sewer line, could you just run the drainage pipe down to the basement and include the trap in that location?
Max of 32” to the trap
Illegal to have the trap for laundry below the floor
Would you recommend I install a 2" washer drain line into 1.5" vanity line that is vented that connects to the main sewer line?
You can install smaller pipes into larger ones, but you cannot install larger pipes in the smaller ones. For example, you can install a 2 inch drain pipe into a 3 inch drainpipe or wet vent, but cannot install a 3 inch drainpipe into a 2 inch drainpipe or wet vent. Sometimes a 1.5 inch pipe will work fine for a wash machine, even though it might not meet local building codes.
thank man.
You're welcome.
Sorry. Door frame is on the way
You would need to check with your local building and safety department for clarification, but I'm pretty sure you could have the trap outside of the wall, as long as the wall wasn't fire rated. If that's the case, then you would need to use cast-iron. Fire rated walls usually separate living area like your home, from an area like a garage and require special materials like 5/8 drywall and fire rated doors.
Nice video. A question: If you have an existing drain on one wall and the client wants it moved to an adjacent wall, can you cut a hole in the corner studs to make the run to the new location?
You can run the pipes through any walls that are not going to create a structural problem. I have seen plumbers run drainpipes through the corners of walls.
Thanks much. That's good news for my project.
Ended up leaving it alone.
I think that the waters for the washer box is wrong because hammer arrestors can't be upside down
I have heard that they cannot be turned upside down also.
They can be whatever direction if manufactured after 2015
shark bite is for water supply lines. not the drain lines like greg is explaining. thanks greg.
Your missing a nail plate, on that inch and a half 90.
Yes, they could use a a protective plate to prevent nails from being driven into the plastic pipes.
Not bad work but there are better ways to install these without offsetting the riser on the traps.
Daniel Murillo upload please.
I’ve just seen mine dose not have a p trap
Even though that's uncommon, it happens and you can always install one in the future.
If the trap is too close to sanitary tee it becomes an s-trap which is illegal in most states.
I've never heard that, could you provide me with a code reference number. Now that you mention it, a P-trap connecting to a sanitary t is almost exactly like an s trap, making me wonder why an S trap is illegal.
gregvancom i hope you are joking....?
Because, an S-trap doesn't have a vent. So, the potential of siphoning the S-trap dry is high.
Yeah, that is boolshit..
Trap cant be less than 2 pipe diameters between Sanitary T and trap weir.....atleast in my jurisdiction
Why is none of the pipes isolaited?
I don't think I understand your question. Can you provide me with more details or definition of how the word isolated is used in your question?
Clean out should be higher than the flood level fo sho
I would love to see a building code reference number for that.
How to run water lines,, when a door frame is tbe way,,,,,a should.go on top of the door,,???
You've got a good question, but most building departments wouldn't appreciate you running a drain line over a doorway. However, you could always rig something together to allow the wash machine drain pump to pump out the water over a doorway opening and into another drainpipe, but it wouldn't be legal.
he said water lines, not a drain line...
Thanks for correcting my mistake. Hopefully the individual figured it out by now since the comment is a year old, but you could run waterlines over most doorways I would imagine.
Last guy went way too close to the power box.
Not good.
kdmq that is a double 2x4 wall, and the romex is between the studs, and the outlet box is on the opposite side, so its legal.
Blind leading the blind.....
I guess I could say that also, but it would be more helpful if you provided us with some constructive criticism.
Hacks, horrible job