Get core's here- fave.co/1LU94jL How to use a diamond core drill to drill a large diameter hole through a solid wall. Brought to you by www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/for...
It's all very well starting from the garage side to stop dust in the house, but if you don't finish it from the house side, there's a good chance of knocking off the plaster, even though not on hammer.
Over here in the US our employers supply the tools to do the job. Because they're obsessed with getting the job done fast, they give us the same type of diamond coring bit but it's powered straight off of a full size angle grinder with no pilot bit attachment and no safety clutch, needless to say that starting a 5 inch hole takes practice. I like your method much better, it looks a whole lot safer, more accurate, and I believe the coring bit last much longer if ran at a lower speed. Good vid!
Great vid thanks. Came in to see how it should be done after nearly breaking my wrist when the drill I was using to cut a core jammed. I can personally vouch for the part where you say a clutch in the drill is important.
I'd add earplugs to protect your hearing (we want to hear our grandkids when we're old, right?) and spraying water to keep down the cancerous silica dust and keeping the bit cooler for greater bit lifespan. Or at least a dust mask rated for silica dust, worn correctly.
thanks for this video, lots of us handymen learning from one another really helps a lot. for the long years ive been working, i still miss a lot , and your videos patch that missing info. regards
All great advice. Drilling all the way through the wall is only needed if you need to locate the centre of cut on the other side. Also when starting it is good to get through any plaster layer and into about half an inch of brick before removing the pilot bit, the diamond cutter can wander and create a lot of break out if not into the brick. A good clutch is essential as it stops the drill whipping around if the cutter gets jammed mid cut.
This video was really helpful and gave me the confidence to drill through a double layered wall and then fit a vent pipe. It saved me £170 on a quote I had from a builder. As stated on the video use a clutched drill, the clutch came into action on mine as the bit stuck in the wall. I think it would have been "nasty" had I just used my ordinary B & D.
Nice advice on safety and keeping the job clean that's professional. When I drill any type of hole , being a plumber by trade , I look at everything around me as well and plan for anything that could hit me or interfere when/if the drill catches and the clutch might take a second to kick in you still dont want your knuckles or fingers broken from a good kick-back.
Thanks a lot mate, We drill a lot of holes for flues and some walls are an absolute nightmare to core! Big chunky sds drills are the worst idea ever when used for coring! Since I used a dedicated core drill once a while back, I absolutely want one, Smoothest core ever, That wall happened to be an easy wall to core anyway but still was very relaxing to do it haha
Thanks for that, I'll give it a go. Very helpful video's by the way! after lots of hit and miss with finding studs using a 'detector', I stumbled on your video about neodymium magnets then got some off ebay and since then this site is my first port of call for tips! Great advice, cheers.
@Dean Mckeown The one in the video I think was Silverline. I have since purchased a Makita set which was only a few quid more expensive than the Silverline.
Envelope trick is brilliant. Also, I've seen Shop-Vac secured near to suck up concrete dust, as well as another person "wetting" the area with a fine spray mist.
Every time i watch this video the huffing trying to get the crap out of the core bill always makes me smile. Nothing worse can getting something stuck in there and not wanting to smash or tap the bit to get it out.
Excellent demo 👍 I would however suggest that it would be better to orientate the drill handle so that you're holding it above the drill body. That way if the drill binds and it starts to turn anticlockwise (even if you have a clutch it's not instantaneous and they do fail) you have a hand there to brace it, hopefully saving your trigger hand. (If the drill binds with your hand in the location shown in the video it will just pull it out of your grip and you'll lose control of it). It's a useful habit to get into when drilling.
+Mark Slevin The envelope trick was passed down from my brother in law's mother years ago. I think she saw it on a TV program, or perhaps saw it in a DIY book.Thanks for the comment ;-)
Brilliant - thanks. The local boys working for me here will be amazed. Still cutting massive holes in block work with a chisel and hammer to put a pipe through the wall!!
Thanks, the blocks in this video are concrete but many new homes use aerated concrete which are much lighter and easier to drill etc. Thanks for the comment ;-)
I have a Bosch - 11241EVS drill but it doesnt have only drilling option. It works either hammer or hammer drill so can I use diamond 3' with hammer and drill option together. Will it be stable at first???
Great Video. I need to drill a venting hole in my house for the kitchen extractor. The old ducting is just shitty PVC flexible ducting (with some holes in it). Impossible to change to something better unless plasterboard is pulled down. So I have to go the other way and drill a hole in the wall. I have a Bosch GBH2000 drill that is 620W and has a safety clutch. Would that be enough to go through the wall? Or I need a more powerful drill 1500W? The wall is a cavity wall concrete blocks and brick on the outer layer. The house has a 86mm internal insulation as well. Thx
i got to drill through 2 steel reinforced concrete beams above an old doorway and it tool over 2 hours of drilling to get through the outer one and now i got to do the inner one..... the corners are beginning to wear ont slightly on the core bit now :( any advise or just keep going? the steel bars are about the size of your index finger and i have managed to get through 2 of them in the first beam.
Hello, i need to drill through some porcelain tile on my kitchen wall, i have used masonry bits and its doesnt seem to work, i wanted to get a diamond bit but i cant find any in 11/64s, please help
I have a 100mm duct in a bedroom. I need to install a heat recovery unit to remove high humidity from the room. The unit only comes as 150mm, you mentioned that expanding a core size is a pain, any ideas on how to approach this? Its a hollow block wall, would I be easier chiselling it out with an impact hammer?
Hilti have an instructional video which shows the pilot drill being removed fairly soon. Good enough for me! czcams.com/video/MxcWv7BZRgk/video.html - for the Hilti video. Also, Bosch have a good safety video about kickback which is well worth watching.
Yes, it will still work but it could be tough going depending on the type of stone. It should be fine in sandstone, but for granite you might need a professional rig with water cooling. To use a core drill like this one you need to cut out a core until the core drill cannot cut anymore and then break out the circular section left behind when you pull the core drill out of the hole and keep repeating until you are all the way through. You can buy extension bars for the core's, which you might need to get through such a thick wall.
I’m in the UK too, where do you buy this stuff? I need to punch a hole for the drier exhaust, multiple layer wall (including insulation and air space) that I would have to seal before I insert the tube, any tips on how to seal the layers? Thank you!
You can get the core drills on eBay- fave.co/2ATarxL Normally I just insert the tube, then seal around the tube using a good quality silicone sealant. Thanks for the comment
@ brianboru62 If it's just the one hole you are doing your best option might be to hire a dedicated core cutting machine for the day? I'd always go for a slightly larger core drill- the last thing you want is a hole that is slightly too small. If you are buying a machine get the most powerful you can afford but make sure it has the safety clutch ;-)
thanks bought this has clutch www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261643684338 seems good enough. Its doin me head in having an internal soil pipe its causing heaps of probs coz the internal pipe just gets in the way of fitting my bathroom suite in the desired manner.Hence watching your vid on using a core drill bit.hopefully from :( to :)
trainmanmusic HAHA stay away from hire stores unless you your a busy tradesman and you NEED something desperately.Otherwise ebay was great for me saved a fortune and that drill i bought is a beast it whizzes through concrete posts ( to fasten and screw gate post too).Hire stores scandalous prices,I was lucky and bought a 110mm diamond core hole saw 28 quid,a hire store i enquired would have charged me 58 quid for one days use of very same core drill.
+brianboru62 Hire shops are best avoided. F'rintance years ago I got roped-into helping a mate take down a load of trees at a GFs house. A petrol driven shredder had been hired but I took one look at it and knew that it wouldn't work. The machine employed a drum with swinging flails but the flails were worn and rounded like the helmet on ones privates! Yup the machine didn't work and it even struggled with a small bit of brush wood. It was taken back straightaway and to the hirer's surprise the proprietor of the shop hadn't even put the thirty quid in the till. Presumably he KNEW that the shredder wouldn't work! With no shredder the bonfire method had to be used. Unfortunately a very tough looking and irate bloke soon arrived ranting on about soot and smoke on his wife's washing. It was looking like a fist fight but there were several of us so the bloke backed-down. Phew! hire shops can cause a LOT of trouble so take care! With hindsight it might have been better to reverse or sharpen the flails but when one pays £30 for a days hire its a bit much to be expected to service the machine as well!
+Tech Davey Bloody hell aye,hire anything for 2 weeks and you coujd have ended up buying the friggin thing. Hence why i bought a diamond hole cutter for what..£20 notes.saved meself 40 quid im sure for a weeks hire that came with a hammer drill.Stuff that got me drill of ebay bloody great take a brick out in 20 seconds.i got the diamond cutter from a weird shop that sells oddball tools giant pliars or ball joint splitters(alice in wonderland for tool heads)
great video but still can't find out what size diamond core drill bit I need for a 40mm hole for waste pipe, is there a chart anywhwere that I can look up. Thanks for all your videos, I'm a late comer to your channel so don't expect many answers so I'll keep looking, I asked a couple of plumbers but they didn't seem to want to give out any info.
I think it depends whether the pipe is solvent weld or push fit. Solvent weld is normally 43mm or 1.5 inches outside diameter Push fit is normally 41mm outside diameter I have had a quick look, but the closest size diamond core bit seems to be 52mm
I have an rayburn with a 5 inch flue pipe but if I replace it there will be an 150mm flue.From what you say the core drill will not easily enlarge the hole, any ideas
quick question I've to make another hole using the proper drill which I borrowed my worry is the outside of the house was freshly plastered just sand and cement render would the hole outside be perfectly round or would it need to be patched up a reply would be great thanks.
+SuperGawin If you are using a core drill like in this video the hole should be perfect, however you are better off drilling a pilot hole straight through the wall, then use the core drill from the inside and the outside to guarantee a clean hole.
Great video. Just bought a core drill myself and I'm sure I would have left the guide drill in the whole way if it wasn't for your advice. It makes perfect sense to take it out, since the diamond core is acting as the guide. One thing though, it seems my guide bit isn't quite true - could it have come that way from the factory or is it an optical illusion, and does it matter? It's a Bosch core drill kit bought brand new, so I wonder if they're all like that.
If ever needed to enlarge a core drilled hole drive some wood into the existing hole and wood drill a hole in the middle. The pilot will follow it easy for the larger hole without fingers going missing.
This is the drift- www.powertoolworld.co.uk/duro-dp-dk-dry-diamond-core-bit-drift-key You knock that through the hole and it ejects the tapered drill bit, which stops it from jamming up the core drill. Thanks for the comment
Just to be clear - do you use hammer drill mode to drill with a diamond core drill? I have always used normal drilling mode (and not hammer) when using the above.
I always go through the inside plaster just a few cm to stop it cracking. Can almost guarantee if you go straight through from one side the hole will not be a clean neat cut. A helper with a Hoover works well inside too to keep dust to a minimum
Not sure as I don't use TCT core drills, I would definitely check with the manufacturers though as you could seriously damage them if they are not supposed to be used with hammer action. Thanks for the comment
Very helpful video but I have a question though. I have a set of diamond core drills which came with a SDS plus and hex adaptor and 2 cores with a diameters of 117mm and 127mm (amongst other cores with smaller diameters). Guidelines of the manufacturer are not to use diamond cores larger than 72mm in diameter with SDS plus drills as this may result in damage to the tool or the adaptor (because of over the overload on the shank). Hence why they provide the hex adaptor with it so that larger diameter cores can be used on drills with standard keyed or keyless locking chuck that can accept large diameter cores. But that makes those cores kinda useless for me using a SDS plus machine. Since I see you use a core of about 117 mm on an SDS plus, what's your experience on that statement? I'd just need it to drill the occasional hole.
I have bought a couple of sets of Diamond core drills now and neither of them had any instructions whatsoever. I have used large diameter ones in my SDS machine with no problems yet, but they are better in a dedicated core drilling machine with an hex chuck. For occasional use as long as you take it easy I do not think you'll have a problem as long as the machine has a safety clutch
Good evening, Titan TTB279SDS has a mechanical safety clutch and I was wondering whether it's good enough. It's a rather cheap hammer drill, but its reviews are really good. Four and a half gold stars out of five. Will it do? Thank you :)
Core drills do not normally make a lot of noise. On site now they have reduced the amount of hearing protection that we have to wear, apparently the HSE have deemed that people cannot hear danger if the DB level is reduced too much. Thanks for the comment
how do you stop the arbour bit and the core from locking together ? as i was drilling a 4 inch hole for an extractor fan and i couldn't undo the two bits?
Allen Goldsmith They are not easy to undo. There are normally two flats machined onto the arbor and the core drill itself which you can grip using two spanners/wrenches.
yup I just did a core above ceiling grid, 2-1/2" hole...thru brick. Took me about 10 secs of drillin and I bolt to the truck, got my gloves, my mask, my safety glasses and ear plugs. My mask was completely red when I got thru....I was surprised that the vibration went down a little when i put on my gloves. And the ringing in my ears not as bad as when I didn't have plugs on. Learn my lesson that day.
Well deserved too. Informative and well made, if I hadn't watched this I may have cocked up my new core bits. I didn't before this not to have the hammer function off so thanks.
For the pilot hole, does the bit for that pilot hole needs to be diamond tip or carbide tip? Can I just use the pilot bit that comes with the core bit?
If you don’t have a suitable masonry bit, just use the core drill with the pilot bit installed, then remove the pilot drill to prevent it from jamming, once you have the hole started 👍
It's all very well starting from the garage side to stop dust in the house, but if you don't finish it from the house side, there's a good chance of knocking off the plaster, even though not on hammer.
Over here in the US our employers supply the tools to do the job. Because they're obsessed with getting the job done fast, they give us the same type of diamond coring bit but it's powered straight off of a full size angle grinder with no pilot bit attachment and no safety clutch, needless to say that starting a 5 inch hole takes practice.
I like your method much better, it looks a whole lot safer, more accurate, and I believe the coring bit last much longer if ran at a lower speed.
Good vid!
A very comprehensive guide with a lot of useful tips. I hope my 9" brick wall takes a hole as neatly as yours did. Many thanks for posting.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great vid thanks. Came in to see how it should be done after nearly breaking my wrist when the drill I was using to cut a core jammed. I can personally vouch for the part where you say a clutch in the drill is important.
I'd add earplugs to protect your hearing (we want to hear our grandkids when we're old, right?) and spraying water to keep down the cancerous silica dust and keeping the bit cooler for greater bit lifespan. Or at least a dust mask rated for silica dust, worn correctly.
thanks for this video, lots of us handymen learning from one another really helps a lot. for the long years ive been working, i still miss a lot , and your videos patch that missing info. regards
Thanks UHM! my dad was trying to bore through a chimney without a pilot bit, its a good thing we hadn't wallpapered yet :P
I love your videos as a young Worker its always good to see experienced !!!
All great advice. Drilling all the way through the wall is only needed if you need to locate the centre of cut on the other side. Also when starting it is good to get through any plaster layer and into about half an inch of brick before removing the pilot bit, the diamond cutter can wander and create a lot of break out if not into the brick. A good clutch is essential as it stops the drill whipping around if the cutter gets jammed mid cut.
Thanks for the comment
This video was really helpful and gave me the confidence to drill through a double layered wall and then fit a vent pipe. It saved me £170 on a quote I had from a builder.
As stated on the video use a clutched drill, the clutch came into action on mine as the bit stuck in the wall. I think it would have been "nasty" had I just used my ordinary B & D.
I'm glad the video helped.
Thanks for the comment
Nice advice on safety and keeping the job clean that's professional. When I drill any type of hole , being a plumber by trade , I look at everything around me as well and plan for anything that could hit me or interfere when/if the drill catches and the clutch might take a second to kick in you still dont want your knuckles or fingers broken from a good kick-back.
No you dont plumbers are useless
The envelope trick, that was sneaky mate ! love it :)
Thanks for the comment
Thanks a lot mate, We drill a lot of holes for flues and some walls are an absolute nightmare to core! Big chunky sds drills are the worst idea ever when used for coring! Since I used a dedicated core drill once a while back, I absolutely want one, Smoothest core ever, That wall happened to be an easy wall to core anyway but still was very relaxing to do it haha
Very helpful, thank you.
I will be using you advice soon, when I drill a hole for my central heating air vent.
Thanks for that, I'll give it a go. Very helpful video's by the way! after lots of hit and miss with finding studs using a 'detector', I stumbled on your video about neodymium magnets then got some off ebay and since then this site is my first port of call for tips! Great advice, cheers.
@Dean Mckeown
The one in the video I think was Silverline. I have since purchased a Makita set which was only a few quid more expensive than the Silverline.
is the Makita a lot better?
+brianboru62
I have not tried them yet.
I'll try and set up a comparison test when I have time ;-)
Envelope trick is brilliant. Also, I've seen Shop-Vac secured near to suck up concrete dust, as well as another person "wetting" the area with a fine spray mist.
Have you any idea of what type of envelope was used to catch the dust?
That was really helpful did not know about the requirement for the chuck.
great demonstration
Top vid as usual. Clear. Never usually have any further q's once you've explained something
Every time i watch this video the huffing trying to get the crap out of the core bill always makes me smile. Nothing worse can getting something stuck in there and not wanting to smash or tap the bit to get it out.
😂
Excellent demo 👍 I would however suggest that it would be better to orientate the drill handle so that you're holding it above the drill body. That way if the drill binds and it starts to turn anticlockwise (even if you have a clutch it's not instantaneous and they do fail) you have a hand there to brace it, hopefully saving your trigger hand. (If the drill binds with your hand in the location shown in the video it will just pull it out of your grip and you'll lose control of it). It's a useful habit to get into when drilling.
👍
Using an envelop to collect the dust is very clever. Thank you for the helpful video sir.
That tip was given to me by my brother in Laws, mother 👍
Very useful video. Like the envelope on the wall, I normally get the hoover out and hold it awkwardly under the drill.
+Mark Slevin The envelope trick was passed down from my brother in law's mother years ago. I think she saw it on a TV program, or perhaps saw it in a DIY book.Thanks for the comment ;-)
your video are great man. thank you. keep uploading please
I will do ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Excellent video, thanks
I am not a tradesman but i enjoy watching these vidoes. Sometimes I wonder if I should try things by myself during my day off.
I'm glad you like watching the videos.
Thanks for the comment
I've been using the core drills that require the rotary hammer function to work - this looks like a much cleaner QUIETER way of doing things. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment
You’ve been using the core bits wrong. 😂
Brilliant - thanks. The local boys working for me here will be amazed. Still cutting massive holes in block work with a chisel and hammer to put a pipe through the wall!!
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
@Fire System Security
No, a safety clutch stops the machine from turning if the bit gets jammed ;-)
thanks need to know whats best for a heist
@@dezlotto8692 11 lads and lasses.
nice video. can you use water on the bit to reduce dust?
You're a great teacher - Thanks, I learnt a lot.
Thanks Paul ;-)
Just subscribed - it's going to be fun.
Can't wait to learn new stuff from you.
Thanks Paul, I hope you learn a lot!
Impressive instruction. I must say the quality of the material/construction seen in this video appears superior to what we see here in the states.
Thanks, the blocks in this video are concrete but many new homes use aerated concrete which are much lighter and easier to drill etc.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Another great tutorial. Thanks.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
I have a Bosch - 11241EVS drill but it doesnt have only drilling option. It works either hammer or hammer drill so can I use diamond 3' with hammer and drill option together. Will it be stable at first???
Great Video. I need to drill a venting hole in my house for the kitchen extractor. The old ducting is just shitty PVC flexible ducting (with some holes in it). Impossible to change to something better unless plasterboard is pulled down.
So I have to go the other way and drill a hole in the wall.
I have a Bosch GBH2000 drill that is 620W and has a safety clutch. Would that be enough to go through the wall? Or I need a more powerful drill 1500W? The wall is a cavity wall concrete blocks and brick on the outer layer. The house has a 86mm internal insulation as well. Thx
I'm not sure to be honest, it should be powerful enough but if it is not you should soon find out.
Thanks for the comment
hi nice what is the maximum core bit i can use with 2-28dv
well explained. just what i needed to understand how to use these drills
Thanks for the comment
I never took the pilot bit out. Thanks for the advice
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
برنامج مفيد جدا شكرا
very useful show ,,,
thank you
Pilot bit, I learned new. Thank you.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
شغل ممتاز مع فني محترف ومع معدات شركة بوش ... احسنت
شكرا للتعليق
What is this? Noodles?😁
@@Phjghh 🤣🤣🤣
You made this look so much better and easier than a video by Moorcut. Thanks, super cool.
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman 5
Thanks, good vid, covered all the points I wasn't sure about
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Great learning curve, Thanks !!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
i got to drill through 2 steel reinforced concrete beams above an old doorway and it tool over 2 hours of drilling to get through the outer one and now i got to do the inner one..... the corners are beginning to wear ont slightly on the core bit now :( any advise or just keep going?
the steel bars are about the size of your index finger and i have managed to get through 2 of them in the first beam.
what the price for one of those diamond core
and can that cutting piece be use only that model bosch
Thanks for this video mate, very helpful . Got six of these to do 😎
You are welcome.
Best of luck with the 6 holes ;-)
All done through 17" of wall! took about three days and one cutter from Titan. Cheers
After drilling a whole in a wall like that..is the core drill still as sharp or as effective?
What rpm do you use, (ie cutting speed). Constant, or what just feels best?
Hello, i need to drill through some porcelain tile on my kitchen wall, i have used masonry bits and its doesnt seem to work, i wanted to get a diamond bit but i cant find any in 11/64s, please help
Used the exact same size today on the job for the first ever, through two walls.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Keir Murray what size is bit ?
I have the same hummer drill but I don’t know what size the bit for diamond core drill
@@kokyrodezno5199 8mm x 205mm pilot bit
Awesome need this video
thank you man , useful advices !!!
wow i finally get to see the simplier demo and therefor it is more understabe to me thankyou sir
👍
I have a 100mm duct in a bedroom. I need to install a heat recovery unit to remove high humidity from the room. The unit only comes as 150mm, you mentioned that expanding a core size is a pain, any ideas on how to approach this? Its a hollow block wall, would I be easier chiselling it out with an impact hammer?
I actually found that the core drill jamed a lot more when i removed pilot drill, ive done it both ways. So now i leave it in.
Hilti have an instructional video which shows the pilot drill being removed fairly soon. Good enough for me!
czcams.com/video/MxcWv7BZRgk/video.html - for the Hilti video.
Also, Bosch have a good safety video about kickback which is well worth watching.
will this work on 18 inch thick victorian stone wall? All the vids I've seen are with the tradesmen cutting into soft breezeblock and brick walls
Yes, it will still work but it could be tough going depending on the type of stone. It should be fine in sandstone, but for granite you might need a professional rig with water cooling.
To use a core drill like this one you need to cut out a core until the core drill cannot cut anymore and then break out the circular section left behind when you pull the core drill out of the hole and keep repeating until you are all the way through. You can buy extension bars for the core's, which you might need to get through such a thick wall.
I’m in the UK too, where do you buy this stuff? I need to punch a hole for the drier exhaust, multiple layer wall (including insulation and air space) that I would have to seal before I insert the tube, any tips on how to seal the layers? Thank you!
You can get the core drills on eBay- fave.co/2ATarxL
Normally I just insert the tube, then seal around the tube using a good quality silicone sealant.
Thanks for the comment
@ brianboru62
If it's just the one hole you are doing your best option might be to hire a dedicated core cutting machine for the day?
I'd always go for a slightly larger core drill- the last thing you want is a hole that is slightly too small.
If you are buying a machine get the most powerful you can afford but make sure it has the safety clutch ;-)
thanks bought this has clutch www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261643684338 seems good enough. Its doin me head in having an internal soil pipe its causing heaps of probs coz the internal pipe just gets in the way of fitting my bathroom suite in the desired manner.Hence watching your vid on using a core drill bit.hopefully from :( to :)
brianboru62
That should do the trick, please let me know how you get on with it ;-)
trainmanmusic
HAHA stay away from hire stores unless you your a busy tradesman and you NEED something desperately.Otherwise ebay was great for me saved a fortune and that drill i bought is a beast it whizzes through concrete posts ( to fasten and screw gate post too).Hire stores scandalous prices,I was lucky and bought a 110mm diamond core hole saw 28 quid,a hire store i enquired would have charged me 58 quid for one days use of very same core drill.
+brianboru62 Hire shops are best avoided. F'rintance years ago I got roped-into helping a mate take down a load of trees at a GFs house. A petrol driven shredder had been hired but I took one look at it and knew that it wouldn't work. The machine employed a drum with swinging flails but the flails were worn and rounded like the helmet on ones privates! Yup the machine didn't work and it even struggled with a small bit of brush wood. It was taken back straightaway and to the hirer's surprise the proprietor of the shop hadn't even put the thirty quid in the till. Presumably he KNEW that the shredder wouldn't work!
With no shredder the bonfire method had to be used. Unfortunately a very tough looking and irate bloke soon arrived ranting on about soot and smoke on his wife's washing. It was looking like a fist fight but there were several of us so the bloke backed-down. Phew! hire shops can cause a LOT of trouble so take care!
With hindsight it might have been better to reverse or sharpen the flails but when one pays £30 for a days hire its a bit much to be expected to service the machine as well!
+Tech Davey Bloody hell aye,hire anything for 2 weeks and you coujd have ended up buying the friggin thing.
Hence why i bought a diamond hole cutter for what..£20 notes.saved meself 40 quid im sure for a weeks hire that came with a hammer drill.Stuff that got me drill of ebay bloody great take a brick out in 20 seconds.i got the diamond cutter from a weird shop that sells oddball tools giant pliars or ball joint splitters(alice in wonderland for tool heads)
master job,,,,looking very nice
+Nizi Nizamudin
Thanks for the comment ;-)
will this type of drill bit drill through a 6" REINFORCED solid concrete wall? Thanks in advance
great video but still can't find out what size diamond core drill bit I need for a 40mm hole for waste pipe, is there a chart anywhwere that I can look up. Thanks for all your videos, I'm a late comer to your channel so don't expect many answers so I'll keep looking, I asked a couple of plumbers but they didn't seem to want to give out any info.
I think it depends whether the pipe is solvent weld or push fit.
Solvent weld is normally 43mm or 1.5 inches outside diameter
Push fit is normally 41mm outside diameter
I have had a quick look, but the closest size diamond core bit seems to be 52mm
I have an rayburn with a 5 inch flue pipe but if I replace it there will be an 150mm flue.From what you say the core drill will not easily enlarge the hole, any ideas
quick question I've to make another hole using the proper drill which I borrowed my worry is the outside of the house was freshly plastered just sand and cement render would the hole outside be perfectly round or would it need to be patched up a reply would be great thanks.
+SuperGawin If you are using a core drill like in this video the hole should be perfect, however you are better off drilling a pilot hole straight through the wall, then use the core drill from the inside and the outside to guarantee a clean hole.
excellent vid thanks
Great video. Just bought a core drill myself and I'm sure I would have left the guide drill in the whole way if it wasn't for your advice. It makes perfect sense to take it out, since the diamond core is acting as the guide. One thing though, it seems my guide bit isn't quite true - could it have come that way from the factory or is it an optical illusion, and does it matter? It's a Bosch core drill kit bought brand new, so I wonder if they're all like that.
Amazing video
Thanks!
where i can find this adapter , frome hammer drill to core drill
ok thanks for your video and advice
If ever needed to enlarge a core drilled hole drive some wood into the existing hole and wood drill a hole in the middle. The pilot will follow it easy for the larger hole without fingers going missing.
Just get rid of the pilot drill and offer up a timber template to guide the bigger bit
Does black and decker bd155rt quattro have a safety clutch? Been waiting 2 days for a call from manufacturer
I seriously doubt if that has a safety clutch. It's normally the bigger machines that have the safety clutch.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video but what did you mean by a drift when removing the drill bit to prevent the core drill from jamming. Thanks for replying to my questions.
This is the drift- www.powertoolworld.co.uk/duro-dp-dk-dry-diamond-core-bit-drift-key
You knock that through the hole and it ejects the tapered drill bit, which stops it from jamming up the core drill.
Thanks for the comment
Hi bud, great vid! What's the difference between blue and silver core bits? I'm a apprentice and don't know weather to buy a silver one or a blue one?
Not sure, I think it's just different manufacturers painting them different colours.
I'd get the best make I could for the money, such as Makita etc.
Just to be clear - do you use hammer drill mode to drill with a diamond core drill? I have always used normal drilling mode (and not hammer) when using the above.
No, you should never use hammer action with diamond cores.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I always go through the inside plaster just a few cm to stop it cracking. Can almost guarantee if you go straight through from one side the hole will not be a clean neat cut.
A helper with a Hoover works well inside too to keep dust to a minimum
I agree with the Ultimate handyman
I Learn a lot, thank you.
You are welcome
Thinking about getting an sds drill
Nice Demo. My video little similar to this about making chimney hole nicely.
👍
not on hammer mode for this type of core bit. from what i been told you are supposed to use a hammer mode with TCT core drill bits is this true?
Not sure as I don't use TCT core drills, I would definitely check with the manufacturers though as you could seriously damage them if they are not supposed to be used with hammer action.
Thanks for the comment
thats a good idea, its probably a lot less messing about than other methods.
thanks
This gives me enough confidence to do this myself instead of paying someone.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Can you use normal sds drill? or does it have to be diamond core drill?
Very helpful video but I have a question though. I have a set of diamond core drills which came with a SDS plus and hex adaptor and 2 cores with a diameters of 117mm and 127mm (amongst other cores with smaller diameters).
Guidelines of the manufacturer are not to use diamond cores larger than 72mm in diameter with SDS plus drills as this may result in damage to the tool or the adaptor (because of over the overload on the shank). Hence why they provide the hex adaptor with it so that larger diameter cores can be used on drills with standard keyed or keyless locking chuck that can accept large diameter cores. But that makes those cores kinda useless for me using a SDS plus machine.
Since I see you use a core of about 117 mm on an SDS plus, what's your experience on that statement? I'd just need it to drill the occasional hole.
I have bought a couple of sets of Diamond core drills now and neither of them had any instructions whatsoever. I have used large diameter ones in my SDS machine with no problems yet, but they are better in a dedicated core drilling machine with an hex chuck. For occasional use as long as you take it easy I do not think you'll have a problem as long as the machine has a safety clutch
Good evening,
Titan TTB279SDS has a mechanical safety clutch and I was wondering whether it's good enough. It's a rather cheap hammer drill, but its reviews are really good. Four and a half gold stars out of five. Will it do?
Thank you :)
Gandalf4137
It would be ok for the occasional core drill, but not for use all the time with cores as you need a dedicated machine for that really!
"I am wearing safety gloves and glasses." I'm more anticipating my hearing before it even began :D
Core drills do not normally make a lot of noise. On site now they have reduced the amount of hearing protection that we have to wear, apparently the HSE have deemed that people cannot hear danger if the DB level is reduced too much.
Thanks for the comment
Ha. Love the envelope trick! Cheers.
+Dave D
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Will the extension bar work for an SDS Plus drill or standard SDS drill only? Thanks
It will work with either of them.
Thanks for the comment 👍
how do you stop the arbour bit and the core from locking together ? as i was drilling a 4 inch hole for an extractor fan and i couldn't undo the two bits?
Allen Goldsmith
They are not easy to undo.
There are normally two flats machined onto the arbor and the core drill itself which you can grip using two spanners/wrenches.
My Hero!
LOL, thanks for the comment ;-)
yup I just did a core above ceiling grid, 2-1/2" hole...thru brick. Took me about 10 secs of drillin and I bolt to the truck, got my gloves, my mask, my safety glasses and ear plugs. My mask was completely red when I got thru....I was surprised that the vibration went down a little when i put on my gloves. And the ringing in my ears not as bad as when I didn't have plugs on. Learn my lesson that day.
I have a 78mm TCT hole cutter. Does the same rule apply? Should the hammer action be turned off?
Thank you
Gandalf4137
Yes, you should not use hammer action with diamond or TCT core drills.
You are welcome ;-)
Great tips, even 9 years later!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Is it necessary for me to use this heavy drill , I'm only going through breezblock & rockwool
Breeze block is normally quite tough 🤔
Thanks for the vid
Wow, over 1 million views for this video!
Thanks to anyone that has ever watched it ;-)
Ultimate Handyman You deserve it. Great videos.
Thank you ;-)
Ultimate Handyman ggggf🐙💩🥔🐣⚽️⚽️⚽️⚽️⚽️⚽️
Well deserved too. Informative and well made, if I hadn't watched this I may have cocked up my new core bits. I didn't before this not to have the hammer function off so thanks.
Ultimate Handyman like
I use the identical drill. What is the brand name of the diamond bit and Arbor you are using
I'm not sure what brand mine are but there are many similar kits, as long as it comes with the SDS arbour it should be fine- fave.co/2muvp03
For the pilot hole, does the bit for that pilot hole needs to be diamond tip or carbide tip? Can I just use the pilot bit that comes with the core bit?
If you don’t have a suitable masonry bit, just use the core drill with the pilot bit installed, then remove the pilot drill to prevent it from jamming, once you have the hole started 👍
Where did you buy the sds adapter from that holds a pilot bit??
It cam with the diamond core kit, although you can but them separately.
What's your opinion on wetting the cement blocks while drilling...would this method help protect the the drill bit?
These cores are designed to be used dry, but I don't think wetting them will do them any harm. It will help to keep the dust down for sure.