VW PD injector, Remove, Reseal , and install, The complete Job
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- čas přidán 30. 01. 2020
- VW PD injector, Remove, Reseal , and install, The complete Job.
In this video i will show you how to remove a injector from a volkswagen PD diesel engine, reseal the Bosch injector, and Replace and set up the VW injector back into the engine.
This will be the same for any VAG group PD engine, such as Audi PD injectors, Seat PD injectors, and Skoda PD injectors, and any Bosh PD injector also know as Pumpe Duse.
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Thanks to your video I finally plucked up the courage to fit the replacement PD injector seals that I have had in my tool cabinet for the past 2 years!
Please to have helped, it’s comments like this that lets me know that I can help people and why I decided to post videos in the first place, thank you
Love the way you grolly the machined ring grooves with a sharp pointy screwdriver.. Class
15:54 OMG thank you, I read on another vid a guy getting yelled at for not tapping their injectors down (which can lead to it not seating and rocking in the cylinder head). I'm glad you include this step as I was searching for video on how and how hard to tap 👍
I’m glad it helped you, thanks for your comment
one of the best videos on how to do the PD injectors👌
maxthecaddy thank you so much for that kind comment, it would have meant alot to my father David (turning engine) as well who sadly passed away this year
so sorry to hear that buddy i did not no
Thank you for your comment I’m still editing videos with him in
Hello. I have black smoke under heavy acceleration on my 210000 mileage. 1.9tdi, my mechanic has told me to remove them to bring them to him to test. Looking at your video has given me the confidence to take them out. Many thanks to you.
Hardest part is turning over the engine and looking at the dial test indicator at the same time
@@RichManPoorMotors Thanks for the heads up. hopefully, it'll be the cause of the black smoke on hard acceleration. it's done well over 200k, it could be a worn cam shaft or 'anything', i'll try this 1st, thanks for your reply mate. really appreciate your video.
Black smoke is fuel, also consider the valve guide seals at that mileage
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good job! i've replaced 1 injector on my vw pd engine recently. had trouble with leaking cam cover afterwards. ended up buying a new one due the old cover being warped.
Thank you, I’ve heard that others have had same problem as you, I’ve always used a new seal and tighten down like a head gasket and I’ve been ok, probably just lucky
@@RichManPoorMotors i've tried new seal, but didnt work. Also i didnt want to bodge it with loads of sealant. Had to bite the bullet and buy new cover for £££.
Great video. Have to do this job shortly so very useful.
Good luck! Let us know how you got on
Awesome, good job.
Great video very well explained
What a great video I have been looking for something as informative as this since our mk5 vw golf 1.9 tdi injector seal's went allowing diesel to mix with the oil my question is where abouts do you crank the engine over from and what do you use to do it anything need removing ect
Thanks for the comment, the engine is turned via the crankshaft, this is done with a socket and long bar for leverage, to get on the crank you need to remove the pulley wheel for your accessories belt, I thought this is all shown in the video if not check out my other video on timing czcams.com/video/GZtATHhIUcU/video.html
I am getting oil dilution from diesel in my engine, do you think the problem is them rubber seals on the injectors?
Any idea why the injectors with new seals don't want to go in? I bought a fitting kit to go with some reconned injectors but i can't push them flush into the bore. Ive tried tapping it down but it will not budge
Would replacing these seals stop a heavy smell of hot diesel in and around the engine bay ?
Do you have to replace the followers bolt and the injector bolt or just the injector bolts
Is this the same engine as on the Outlander 2.0 D-DI? I bought a spares and repairs and need to do this!
hi man, thanks for the video.. i have a pd 1.9 tdi axr repro at 160hp.. 170.000miles. im pretty sure there is fuel in the oil. vagcom at 90°C shows me a good inyector values.. all 4 close to 0.00~ +-0.40.. under preasure at high speed all looks good but i have a little rough idle and a bit of smoke. i will change tandem pump seals tomorrow, then if it doesnt work i will change inyector seals.. do you think problem is coming from inyectors or tandem pump?. THANKS!
Hi one of my injectors has a problem. The plunger and spring have become detached. There is a kit you can buy to replace the two collars but you must have to compress the spring a fair way to put it all together. I cannot find any advice online, anybody care to help please? Cheers
Very good master
Thank you for your comment
Thanks for the helpful vidéo,just wondering what happens if we tightened injector bolt harder then you did in your video?
Since they're TTY bolts There's a narrow range around the listed torque angle where they're at maximum holding power. So, you can get away with a little over or under. Too little and it might not seal or could back out. Too much and the bolt is over stretched which is about the same as just being too loose. Way too much or trying to reuse TTY bolts will likely break the bolt and you will probably need a new head if you don't know how to remove a broken bolt. This range of maximum holding power is different for every bolt and the manufacturer rarely publishes that information.
Bro can you help me with procuring new nozzle tip. I am from India but India new
Noozle is not available only Chinese duplicates are available.
Well explained video. I have 375k miles on my MK5 TDI. Eventually going to try this. I have been looking for 5 years for a decent video. Only one video out there for the last years and I couldn't quite get the language..Now have to figure out configuring new injectors. Question- is the dial indicator readily available in the USA. Thanks
Hi yes dial test indicators are quite common tool what I don’t know is if they are known by a different name in USA I will look for you and post a link to you tomorrow just to remind you stretch bolts are one time only so you need new ones
Hi as promised reference dial test indicator here is a link for one like i used in the video in the USA amzn.to/34fFinW
You can roll the seals on the way you did in your video as it weakens the top and middle seal so the diesel leaks past.
you can roll or you CANT roll ?
Do you recommend using sealant like RTV on the cam shaft cover gasket, or just a smidge of silicone grease? I've got a slight seeping on the long end near the timing belt cover after replacing the injector loom. I just used a small wipe of grease on the new gasket and incrementally torque the bots in the same sort of pattern as I would a cylinder head. My Haynes manual says to use some sealant over the cam shaft arches, but I was a bit worried by by lack of experience with sealant on gaskets. By the way, my Haynes manual seems to suggest that installing the o-rings on the injectors is a specialist task for a professional? Great Video, thanks! And thanks for any advice about the sealant.
The camshaft covers on vw’s are notorious for leaking when changed as they seam to warp slightly, vw’s answer would be no to adding any sealant to the cover followed by here is a bill for a new rocker cover and new gasket, i would add some sealant on my own but can’t recommend it refuting to the o rings that might be down to how some people put on or remove them, or using incorrect o rings, I have had no problem but I’m use to replacing o rings in hydraulics
Hi, thanks for sharing this, my 2003 golf AXR motor has strange periodic rough idle, other than that it runs fine, have been thinking about checking the injectors, now I think I have the confidence to do it. Is there a safe way to clean the injector nozzles? Or is it best not to touch them?
I never take apart the injector but I always place the injectors nozzles in a Ultrasonic cleaner, I don’t separate the injector just place them tip in, into the water and cleaning solution, I don’t go below the tips as I don’t want the fuel in or out submerged. I don’t know if there is a chance of damage, so do it at your own risk, but this is what I do, I found this cleans the tips for a better spray pattern. And I’ve not had any problems myself
@@RichManPoorMotors OK, cheers and thanks again.
Hi, for the injector rocker bolts, did you use the oem torque-to-yield bolts, or the re-usable version I've seen online (different torque specs). I'm trying to verify that your 20nm +90* torque spec is for the TTY bolts. Thank you.
I’m trying to remember as it was a long time ago, I think they were new bolts, I know that the injector bolts were definitely TTY as I had to buy two sets, one set was for a Passat that I did a week later, but I’m not in work at the moment as my farther David who was turning the crank died so I can’t check what I purchased sorry, as always I encourage to check all settings for your engine
Amazing video, thanks for sharing it .
Just a question, why do I need a dial gauge, can I not just visually see the injector spring at its lowest point?
No the dial test indicator is vital to find the correct set up in this case in my opinion, remember the engine is rotating at 100 revolutions per second and the tolerances will reflect this, they are cheap today compared to redoing the job or a new engine
There is a specific tool designed to remove the unit injectors. There is also specific tools designed to aid in o-ring install and prevent damage to the o-rings. Also, all the hardware associated with this job is technically one time use per VW. Just in case anyone actually wanted to know...
Thanks for the comment, I hope it helps someone
Is the engine in your video the 1.9 ltr ? I have a 2.0 ltr TD and it has Siemens injectors. Do you know if it is the same procedure as the 1.9? Thanks.
Hi this engine shown here is the 2.0tdi 8 valve, engine code BMM, it had bosch injectors I believe it’s same principle for all PD engines, no matter which manufacture injectors are fitted although i can’t confirm I can only comment on ones I have worked on, if it is common rail which was fitted from around 2008 onwards these aren’t PD injectors
Great videos fellas , I’m hoping to try fix my caddy van with a starting problem been lead to believe its injector seals or injector loom or even injector , as when pluggged into vag it brings injector 4 , but sometimes on idle engine does wobble shake abit , been told it’s early stages of seals and worn cylinder head? It’s a 2.0 sdi pd , I’m no mechanic but I’m willing to try do seals etc only thing I will need tool wise is that time gap gauge to show cam at lowest point , are they universal fit
? Cheers
Thank you for your comment it’s a dial test indicator ask at a auto parts store or check out my link, they are useful for many jobs
Where do I get this dial indicator with the block please ?
Exactly same for me injector 4 Sdi caddy. Have it all except dial gauge
Hi try amzn.to/2NyBxo6 for dial test indicator
it looks as if my original link had changed this one should work
I’ve been researching this job due to excess oil in the fuel filter on my bmn engine, your video is by far the easiest to follow. I’m torn between this and the tandem pump, the car head a new head a while back and this is the first filter change since so thinking a seal could be dodgy on either.......
The car starts runs and drives fine, does smoke and smell a bit, I’m assuming this is due to the oil being burnt when it’s running.
As the cold weather has now set in it’s also starting to to struggle on the morning start up. Ultimately I’ll probably replace tandem and injector seals, whilst cleaning out the tank. Can I ask if anyone else has had the same and where would you start ?
Thanks for the comment,
1st Check your dipstick if the level has gone up then diesel is leaking into your sump, smell the dipstick for diesel.rub some oil between Your fingers to feel the oil. If you have fuel in the oil then it may be from injectors leaking or spray pattern, if your oil has fuel in it then you won’t be getting the lubrications you need. And rings won’t be giving you the compression, and the oil could be passing your rings, Fuel goes back to the tank so if you have oil in your fuel filter then you will likely have oil in your tank, if you replace the fuel filter then it will be black straight after, even if you fixed any fault, fuel may be getting in from the tandem pump or through the head, you said you had a new head could the old head be responsible for the oil in the fuel filter have all new seals gaskets been changed, remember your injectors are covered in oil when temperatures drops the diesel pressure will drop in the cold head and want to suck oil into the fuel past the rubber seals, also pressure in fuel would want to go the other way, so I would start with checking oil 1st as I mentioned oil in the filter might be from previous head
Hi,
Thank you for taking the time to respond, the oil level only ever goes down slightly never up, the previous work was done at a dealership new belts gaskets etc but I can help but think they maybe missed something. I don’t think the old head was responsible for it, although I can’t 100% confirm, I’d have expected that to have burnt off since the work was done, it’s done a few thousand miles since. The oil was well worn but no different to the oil I drained from my other car (they are same car same engine.)
I’ll probably start with a tandem pump rebuild kit or replacement then flush the lines and wipe out the tank, if the oil returns I guess I’ll do the injector seals. I’ve been torn between the two jobs because I imagine draining and cleaning the tank to be a horrible job. The pump it self doesn’t look to bad to do.
Again. Keep up the good work on the videos. I appreciate the time you have taken to reply.
@@LouisCleaver draining the tank is not too bad, i run the car low on fuel, and then take out the fuel pump under the rear seats, then with a fluid extractor remove whats left of the fuel, there will also be fuel in the fuel pump, then you can get your arm in and wipe the tank with cloths etc, if you are doing the injectors, it might be worth doing the valve guide seals at the same time, but as you have had a brand new head that should be ok.
@@RichManPoorMotors I’ve ordered a replacement tandem pump, and an injector seal kit, fingers crossed
@@LouisCleaver how did you get on ?
My pd injectors bolts come loose after my 2 lot of 90° of torquing them up and that's with new bolts I notices after reving engine at 2000 revs make a clucking noise . Is there anything I can do so the bolts can grip on the head.
im not sure why the bolts would have come loose if torqued to the correct settings, if the threads in the head have became stripped then there are only three ways i know to fix this
1st way is to use a thread repair like a Heli coil
2nd way is using oversized bolts and tapping a new thread
3rd is having head welded and new threads drilled and tapped
great video - but you didnt replace the injectors them selves, just took them out and fitted new seals and put them back ?
Yes, I showed how to remove the injectors, replaced the seals on the injectors and replaced and set the timing on them. If you are fitting new injectors then they should come with new seals and you would have to replace and set the timing as shown in this video
good video but the settings of vw pd motors are not all the same. The adjustment of pump in video was -180ªback but the 1.9 pd are not that value. Do you confirm?
225
Love the content, I'm stuck with the injector stretch bolts that have the grip of Arnold and I don't want to round them off
I don’t know what to say, have you tried a freeze penetration spray especially if you can warm it up 1sr
Hi i have 1.9 tdi pd 96kw, I repaired one injector at the shop and all injectors new seals but my problem now is i have low power. They pulled injectors twice and tested they said injectors are very good also on Vcds balance isnt good two injerctors are above 1.5mlg.
Before repair car has white smoke when cold and power was very good.
What do you think
Too hard to diagnose over the phone, check that there are no air leaks from air box to inlet manifold, possibly check turbo actuators both have pressure and free of movement, check sensors are operating as should on vcds, have injectors been correctly set timing when reinstalled, check egr isn’t clogged and working, check air filter isn’t blocked check fuel pressure, I hope I’ve helped in some way
Fuel pressure and injector timing has to be check.
All other things has been checked.
Hi Diesel fuel for injectors comes directly from inside the cylinder head?No injector pipe!
Hi yes on the pd engines, fuel goes from the fuel filter to the low pressure fuel and vacuum pump, inside the cylinder head to the injectors and also returning in the head then back to the fuel filter. The injectors have fuel inlet and outlet on them, as shown in the video and the injectors themselves produced the high pressure via cam on injectors
@@RichManPoorMotors thanks! I had used a 2001 polo tdi before, and I had just noticed that fuel for the injectors went through the cylinder head:)
Hi, I have a 2.0l BMN engine that shakes around a lot and jumps around when cold with a bit of white smoke coming out the exhaust and it stinks, Looking around online i've seen it could be the timing or injector stretch bolts, what would be the best place to start where I'm not going to be pissing money on new parts that wont really fix it. When hot the engine is fine, so I doubt its a DMF issue like audi says it is
Hi first off it’s to hard to diagnose just from symptoms without doing a full diagnosis, but my best guess sounds like it could be a wet piston/pistons this could be caused by leaking oil in piston through valve guides or leaking diesel from injectors if running fine when hot no smoke it doesn’t sound like timing Might start running lumpy + smoke when on tickover after 1-2 seconds I had a Mercedes and a mondeo hat did the same and it was injectors leaking, and a 6month old Citroen and it was dual mass flywheel but that didn’t smoke much.
Lumpy running could be caused from fuel or air or compression not at specified levels or burn to early late etc
Will harris did you ever get your issue resovled? Ive got the same bmn pd lump in my octavia with the exact same symptoms. OBD scan throws up a fault with cold start injector 2 but not much else smokes like a chimney at idle lumpy on start up and smokes if caught in traffic. So id be intrigued to know what your outcome was so im able to change the bits rather then p*****g money up the wall
@@1992marcb for my engine, it ended up been the exhaust cam timing, it was running too rich at like 1.3l an hour at idle, should be like 0.6l I cant remeber what measuring block I used to find this though, but it's a dead easy place to start. Torsion value is the intake, should be as close to 0.0 as possible. Check and see in obd11 if you can find these
Hi where did you buy the new stretch bolts? And the seal kit
It was quite a few years ago now, so I can’t remember exactly, it was either through eBay, euro car parts, GSF parts, a google search, or my local motor factors which is Parker parts the are a chain of motor factors, as this is where I got most of my German car parts eg Mercedes VW Audi BMW
You forgot the O ring behind the two little screws and bar, iy leaks there too. Test with VCDS grp 35 injection pump on to test when cover is still off. At 290k miles thpose started to leak. The o ring does not go on the top, that one does not seal anything!!!
Hi,
I have a 2006 vw passat with 180000km on the clock. It runs fine on idle but produces a lot of black smoke under acceleration. And the there’s vibration coming from the engine when I try to make heavy acceleration. I removed the injector the other day and its full of carbon deposits on the tip. I also found a lot of fuel when I took it out. Do you think a new seal will help resolve this issues on my car? Thanks!
If your injectors are ok and you have taken the injectors out you might as well put the new seals in, if you have a ultrasonic cleaner clean the tips of the injectors, it is impossible for me to know if your injectors are ok, if smoke is black it would suggest fuel, but cold also be linked to turbo, check that your vnt is free and that it’s working ok and your turbo actuator is working fine at that km your valve guide seals might need replacing
Thank you for your quick response. How do you check if the injectors are still ok? Any tips on how to tell if its bad and need replacement? Yeah, the turbo is newly rebuilt. I was thinking its either the injectors/seals or the valve seals that causes the problem.
On petrol cars I take them out and put them in my machine, and look for a leak test and spray pattern on diesels I don’t have that machine for pd injectors so I have to send them away if I think they are at fault, I look at them on vagcom 1st and check the fuelling figures and pressure figures also before stripping I listen with a stethoscope in cdi cr injectors bit hard on pd injectors
Just thinking 2006 do you have a dpf on your car and is it clogged could also creat back pressure in the engine and turbo not spooling up. I had this on a golf once
Hey guys, when do you know these orings need to be replaced?
I ask as I have a 2.5L vw transporter, I’m having a hesitation on start up, a misfire at around 900rpm and what I can only describe and a slurping noise spaced about 1 second apart.
Unfortunately my obd port isn’t responsive.
If you oil is getting diesel in it, this could be a sign, or low fuel pressure, but the slurping sound is making me wander hard to know for sure if it might be injector sealing washer, I would describe this would more like a steam train but hard to diagnose when I don’t have the vehicle
Rich Man Poor Motors yeah I’m struggling to explain the issue tbh and it’s almost impossible to record the noise. It’s a consistent noise every second tho so must be apart of the rotating assembly imo. Besides diesel in oil is there any other physical symptoms? Can the reverse happen and oil get in the fuel?
Just thinking of what to check with no obd
Is your engine back pressure normal
Have you checked for tutoring leaks or induction leaks
Hi,my touran is struggling to start,replaced seals in tandem pump,so could it be my injector seals?
Was it struggling before you took of the pump?
If pump seals I take it that the pump hadn’t broke up and sent metal though to injectors
If you remove pump or fuel filter you get air into the system,
prime fuel pump and try and start to push air through injectors, give plenty of rest between starts it may take 30 mins or more, once started it will run and then stop a few times as air is expelled you probably will also need to recharge you battery
It was struggling b4 I done the pump,it runs better,but still taking ages to start
@@rmaulkerson also check turbo actuator is working
did you use new bolts on the rocker arms or just on the injectors
I think I used new on both
@@RichManPoorMotors nice one, thank you for the vids and all the info you give👍
My 2.0Sdi caddy 2010 147k miles is smoking at high revs or harsh acceleration could it be the injectors and is it common.
presuming that your valves and rings are ok then Could be injectors, or turbo, check you don't have a vacuum leak to the turbo, or a induction leak, also check that the turbo vanes VNT move freely if you can as some times there is a carbon build up, to hard to diagnose over the internet
Egr
Egr or injectors.
Can you confirm if this would be the same process for a vw touran 1.6 fsi 2005?
this is for the pd diesel injectors, petrol injection is much more simple
@@RichManPoorMotors thank you for the quick reply. Can I ask you a question about an issue I am having?
@@marcphillips8812 yes
@@RichManPoorMotors missfire on cylinder 3. The car has had new sparks and coils. Would this suggest that the injector needs to be looked at? Could I remove the injector and clean it?
@@marcphillips8812 hi as iI sure you realise it is hard to diagnose without having the car, as i presume you already know engines require air fuel and source of ignition and if one of these are out it can create problems, if it was one of my cars then i would take out all injectors and put them on my injector machine to check fuel spray patterns, 9 out of 10 times the spay pattern is faulty , you can put them in a ultrasonic cleaner, keep the electrics out of the solution, i have one as part of my machine but you could use one of these amzn.to/3lkYV4Y or a jewellery one, i have a larger one which i can put egr etc in. czcams.com/video/xJlQhI5WS0o/video.html and i find it invaluable, the ultrasonic cleaner cleans the spray pattern if your injector is firing ok, but if you had a hot spot in your piston caused by carbon then this could cause pre detention, low compression could also be effecting firing, electrics is always the 1st place i would check. but as you said this has been done, i have had a faulty new coil pack or leads before
I gave it a whirl today amongs other things, I’m not confident the timing is right on the injectors, I’ve not tried running it yet, When you set the injector I place it at the lowest point, adjust the stop until it makes contact and turn back 180 then lock it off, should I be looking for more resistance from the adjuster or just when it makes contact ?
Just as you feel it snug, then back it off, it shouldn’t be forced your just looking for contact as you’re looking to set the gap
@@RichManPoorMotors I can’t see from the video, but I assume it’s more than just making the adjuster make contact, you actually wind the injector coil down until it becomes firm? Then back off 180? I currently they are set wrong if this is the case, but the rocker covers still off so will adjust them tomorrow.
You wind the adjustment bolt down to feel it contact at the bottom then back off 180, if your not sure the wind it up a bit then back down you are just feeling for it at the bottom then back off, your not trying to force it, but you shouldn’t have any doubt that it hit the bottom, if you look at my video at 28:22 you will see that I’m only moving the ratchet with 1 finger so that I don’t put too much pressure. Just make sure that you use your dial test indicator for the lowest point, on each cylinder
@@RichManPoorMotors brilliant, it was what I thought originally but couldn’t tell in the video’s so played it safe for the evening. I’ll re adjust them tomorrow and finish what I started today, the infected were covered in carbon and the EGR was severely clogged too so it should run lovely when this is all finished.
Thanks again for coming back to me, I appreciate your help, Keep up the good work.
Injectors all done today, have primed the fuel with vag com measuring block 35 3 times to prime the fuel and just would not start, I think it’s now destroyed the starter.......
I’ll leave it a few days prime the fuel again to make sure it’s not let more air in, and try bump starting. .
Do you need a dial Gauge to check the injector lash?
You need to know when the cam is at its most compressed, although you can watch the spring being compressed I personally wouldn’t rely on eye sight alone, so my answer and advice is yes you need a dial test indicator to know for sure
@@RichManPoorMotors thank you, Ive installed a new injector on my 2.0 tdi azv pd and the car won't start, it just keeps on turning, timing is spot on and no codes are being generated by the computer box.
Motor is healthy but just won't start, do I need to bleed the fuel system?
Please help.
Thanks.
ameer amod hi when I re sealed my injectors and again when I changed fuel filter on a service, the injectors need bleeding of air, try cycling fuel lift pump approx 10 times, then start engine it may take quite a few long cranks but eventually all the ones I have have started, just run at 2000 to 2500 rpm for about 5 to 10 mins as it will stall again if left on Tick over and be hard to start again, as air circulate back to fuel filter and back to injectors again eventually it will go hope this helps
@@RichManPoorMotors thanks.
I will try that tomorrow and let you know what's the outcome
ameer amod good luck let me know how you get on,, I traveled 1m down the road went it conked out air 2nd time around and it was a PITA to start so make sure all the air has gone before driving away
Hi does the car need to be set to TDC? I replaced 1 injector on my vw touran tdi 2.0 engine AZV now it won't start only cranks no fault codes any idea what I can check? TA.
If your timing is set right (timing belt) czcams.com/video/GZtATHhIUcU/video.html and your injector timing is set as in this video, then your engine should start, but the air needs to be purged out of the fuel system, do this by operating fuel pump a few times ie (10-20) without starting, some cars this can be done with the key, some needs software plugged into obd port, or you can jump top of fuel pump (tank pump not high pressure pump in engine bay) then try starting repeatedly waiting in between so not to over work starting motor wiring, and it should start, it takes some doing then run engine at about 2000rpm as it will cutout again if on tick over when air circulates back to injectors run for 5 to 10 mins and then it should start 1st time every time if your faults were fixed at time of repair,, hope this helps
Can i use 5.0 tdi touareg injector to 2.5 tdi touareg its available
No
I got a code in my skoda 1.9 pd
P1267 injector limit exceed in cylinder 3
Can you help me what is the problem. I m from India
every car is different..
Possible causes, faulty lamda sensor, airflow meter, wiring, ecu fault, air leak, faulty injector(s), boost leak (If turbo), and the list can goes on and on do you have any other fault codes, has your car been smoking, these could be area’s to look at, try a smoke test for air leaks
I directed the problem. Only one injector was faulty
Hi sorry to be a pain, Can you tell me what Dial gauge this is? what range ?
i have a link to the one i used in the description
@@RichManPoorMotors my apologies thank you very much
No worries have a great day
So can I just take the injectors out and fit back on without doing anything else
You have to set the timing (cam adjustment) as shown on the video towards the end of the video, but you don’t have to code computer or anything
hi can i asked why you needed to change them ? running badly ?
Apart from usual injector problems that cause rough running, poor spray patterns, Smokey engine, poor fuel economy poor performance etc, with pd engines the fuel goes through the head so excess fuel in the oil, or when checking the head or low pressure at the injector, the pd injectors themselves create the high pressure,
if you take the injectors out you might as well reseal them as advised
@@RichManPoorMotors i have a vw caddy with a misfire from cold,all ok after about 5 mins then runs fine,changed the glow plugs,injector wiring loom made no difference,no engine light on,might take a look at the injectors then
@gilly71270 it could be a number of things, looks like you have checked 1st things, it could be a leaky injector leading to a wet piston might be why when it’s hot it doesn’t show up it could be bad compression could be a bad spray pattern etc good luck in finding it soon
What symptoms did the engine show?
I did the injectors while I did the valve guide seals czcams.com/video/EJW9JdekbMs/video.html I had a slight over fuelling reading on my obd software, and a flat spot under full throttle, actually turned out to be a problem with vnt sticking slightly
2 big steps are lining the injectors up and setting the lash.
Is this the 2.0 sdi engine
Engine code is Bmn it is 2.0 tdi use in vw seat and Skoda and I think even Audi not sure if they just had BMM though
there are lots of pump Duse diesel engines this is where the injector makes the pressure in lots of different configurations from 1.9 to at least 2.4 possibly more before they went to cdi which has the pressure in a common rail
How you tell if seals gone bad?
The seals are between channels, so if fuel is leaking into your engine oil, or if fuel return is over pressure may possibly have low pressure at the injectors ect
Did all this. Still leaking diesel into my engine?
Tandem pump
So this is called leakback, symptoms, won't start, ruff idle, starts warm fine won't start in the morning.