What to do when there's Fuel in the Oil? Don't Panic!!
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- čas přidán 10. 07. 2024
- In this video we dismantle and diagnose massive engine failure in a 1.9 TDI PD. In the last video • Stop Being Ripped Off ... we converted the Caddy to run on veg oil, after testing it for 500 miles, fuel leaked into the oil.
This filled our crankcase and caused problems. By examining the engine's tandem pump and camshaft we can see how bad the damage is. While we are at it, and have worked out how to remove the valve cover, we go on and assess the condition of the intercooler, unit injectors, ERG valve and turbo.
Hopefully this video will be of use to you if you have a problem seal in the tandem pump, or need to take apart a pump duse engine to find faults.
The engine here is a VW BLS which is also very similar to engine codes: BJB,
BKC,
BSV and
BXE. These appear in lots of VW, SEAT, Škoda, and Audi cars, but this one's in our Mk3 Volkswagen Caddy.
Quick Links to dismantling and assessing certain engine parts:
00:00 Into to Fuel in Oil problem.
00:30 Draining the oil from the sump.
01:32 Removing the sump pan to asses the condition of the engine (and fix the leak!)
03.05 Checking the turbo to intercooler pipe.
03:53 How and why check the tandem pump?
05:08 Full Tandem Pump teardown / dismantle.
07:37 Camshaft inspection and assessment (including cover removal)
11:32 Removing the Unit injectors without special tools
13:16 A close look at the Unit Injector
13:56 Examine the turbo for possible damage
14:28 The sooted up ERG valve
14:40 The diesel lift pump folly
15:20 Examining a second hand engine for replacement.
If you are interested to see some of my other automotive related videos check out the playlist here:
The video about changing the camshaft I mention can be found here: • VW TDI and Audi TDI ba...
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Prepering to change camshaft with new fuel injectors you gave me idea how to pull them out without buying special tools. 10/10 video👍
Hi Mr. Elbow, just wanted to let you know that I had the exact same issue with the same engine and tandem pump, but completely unmodified. I drained the oil to find about 8 liters of mixed diesel/oil in the catch can. I searched youtube for an explanation and found only this video. Rebuilt tandem pump with new gaskets and she's fine now. Funny thing, I found no other cases of this happening but yours, and I've been watching and learning from your chainsaw mill videos for years!! Small world :)
Awesome to hear!
Loved the last video, thought i can do that. Then this struck the fear of God in me
Lol. Don't let my incompetence put you off. I have been running on veg since this was sorted out, and it's so far so good 👍
Love that your videos are all over the place!
Hugely rewarding to both locate the mechanism that failed (tandem pump seal) and recognise why it failed, (over enthusiastic lift pump). Pity you then found a worn cam - though I presume the engine had been running OK prior to the tandem event. With it all in bits the temptation to replace the engine must have been strong though you might have gained a few years use if you had "just" fitted the tandem pump seal kit and put the old engone back together...
Thanks man! I copied your PD injector removal technique, perfect. I too have lumps of wood hanging around my garage. I knew my hoarding would pay off one day 😊👍🏻🫡
Love it. Keep em coming. Looking forward to seeing you refitting the engine. Good luck.
Thanks 👍
I found that whole thing fascinating. I've never gotten that deep into a diesel either. Best of luck with getting it back on the road.
Good morning Leo. Thanks so much for your positive comment, and for coming along for the ride... Lets see what the engine change brings ;D
Thanks for posting, you are a brave mechanic! I have a big-end failed vehicle sitting, that even the lock-down has't given me courage/incentive to tackle.....Great work and film-making!
Hey Lucas, great to hear from you. Thanks for your kind words - though I'd never claim to be a mechanic - more like someone who tinkers with oil when pushed into it ... lol.
I feel you hesitation on big end work. I have an older friend who often tells me about the time he rebuilt and changed big end bearings on a car, on his dads farm yard, worked for an hour or so.... He forgot to put in some kind of minuscule oil channel or something...
It's probably why I plumped for the whole new engine in the end - I kinda suspected I may have bent a connecting rod with all that oil/diesel getting into the cylinders...
Anyway, best of luck if you have a crack at it, let us know how it goes.
Peace, Bongo.
Does look worse than my wood stove 😆🤣👌 I admire your confidence and abilities and especially improvisation to the job at hand and inquisitive mind.... found this whole video extremely educational & well made and superb in detail, well done 👏 and happy motoring 👍
Hey Adam. Thanks for watching 👀 🙂 and thanks for the encouragement 😀 🙏 😊
Thank you mate for your interesting and informative video. Pleasure to watch 😉 greetings from Lithuania 🇱🇹🤝🇬🇧
Nice one mate, thanks for sharing your experience.
Such a brave repair.
Thank you, I believe you helped me narrow it down... Certainly isn't good news but at least I know. Great video!
Really pleased if it helped.
Cam doesn't look bad at all compared to what i have seen in the past. It's normal wear, I would have just got the seal kit for the pump and called it a day..
next time you pull an injector out, twist the injector back and forth a few times and will pop out with almost no stress.
FYI veg oil dries out / makes rubber stiff. So if that seal that blew was in contact with veg oil and is made of rubber then that will probably be why, they get hard and stop flexing so cant do their job of sealing anymore, or at least it could be a contributing factor along with your lift pump setup.
Determine the cause of the fuel contamination. Possible reasons include:
Faulty fuel injectors or carburetor: If these components are leaking, fuel may enter the cylinders and eventually make its way into the oil.
Compression ring or piston issues: Problems with the engine's internal components can allow fuel to bypass the combustion chamber and mix with the oil. After addressing the issue, monitor the engine closely. Check the oil regularly to ensure that fuel contamination does not recur. If the problem persists or if there are signs of ongoing issues, seek professional assistance.
Whilst joining this late, I am a tdi guru and had the us version of this engine BRM have you put it on the vagcom?
Is it because the oil perishes the seals on these units? I had a previous BOSCH VE mechanical injector pump rebuilt with Viton seals for this reason. 👍
Can the shaft seal be installed in the "wrong" way, not sure if I got it right as it was quite hard to put it in
Hi,mine also mixing oil and diesel what can I look at first and it wasn’t smoking at all but the hidling is like am on petrol and is polo tdi
Thanks i did rebuild on my a4 b7 2.9 tdi bre, but now is leaking oil and the car brakes, before rebuild it was leaking diesel and had no brakes, no sure what i did wrong, any advise?
12:30 nice way to remove them
Good video, did you strip down and inspect turbo , mines smoking a bit at the moment, can you analysis diesel in your engine oil?? Good video 👍
Hey FlashTech, thanks for getting in touch. I didn't strip the turbo, as the new engine had one anyway. It did "look" ok though...
I believe the oil analysis services that are offered can detect diesel in the engine oil, yes.
Seen a few of your videos since i got my caddy, my understanding is that you are not a trained professional in this type of trade, for that sir i take my hat off in front of you, i am a level 3 mechanic and still learning things as i do my job, you have been able to fault find and identify major issues with no training, that is impressive, as for the internet mechanics telling you what is good and what is not, most have to try taking a rocker cover off then come on here and share opinions on how it should be done, kind regards🙂
Hey Daniel, appreciate that my friend!
Peace, Bongo.
شكرا جزيلا
Lots of great info here man....Thanks for sharing...;-)
Good morning Eye Toldyoosso. Thanks for the encouragement my friend!
I have a same engine and there is a diesel leak behind the engine i thing is from vacuum pump do you know for any another fuel lines behind the engine
Hi Ivaylo, I can't think of any other ones back there no. Good luck with it!
So which number 3 do I tighten first or both at once LOL @16:17
So in other terms ,so the engine got destroyed by the main pump by using veggi oil ?
Not really. The additional fuel lift pump I added for the diesel tank was too high pressure 😳 and blew the seal in the tandem pump...
+FloweringElbow on 7:16 do you know the correct seal orientation?? i cant seem to figure it out how the new one should go back in....yaiks
Not really sorry. It was too long ago...
Pull off the valve cover and look at the cams and lifters....from the brief sound of it running the lifters are toast and a known weakness of this engine.
Hello. I have the opposite oil in the diesel. Is it from this pump? Thank you
I don't know, I guess it's possible.
@@FloweringElbow thanks
@@raduradu2261 sorry, I couldn't be more help with this one.
Says "don't panic" then has to buy another engine :)
Got it fixed though ;)
👊
Right on Rishi.
Hello, I own a Kia Cerato 1.6 crdi 136 HP vehicle. My car is at 86,000 km. Diesel is mixed with the engine oil, the oil level is constantly rising. There is no problem in the operation of my vehicle, the idle is normal, there is no noticeable black or white smoke from the exhaust. It works immediately with a single start in the morning, there is no problem. The technician said it could be the DPF and he removed the DPF and cleaned it in the machine. The DPF was around 40% full, but it was still cleaned. But that was not the solution either. Engine oil level continues to rise in my vehicle. I think there is no problem with diesel injectors because there is no indication of injector failure. The vehicle engine has a timing chain. Could it be from the high pressure diesel pump seal? Or what could be the problem? Could you help? Have you ever heard of such a common problem for vehicles of this segment? Urgent. Thanks in advance
Hi Baki thanks for watching. Good question but sorry I am not familiar with that engine or car. Good luck with it my friend!
I've never seen an injector with 2 copper washers on...
Hi can this cause oil in fuel too
I suspect so, yes.
The G goes between the E and the R. ;-)
Great video worth the wait(suspence)Your EGR valve is quite clean.My 1.9Tdi was smoking and lumpy on cold start then running well after 45 seconds/I last cleaned EGR when car was purchased nearly 3 years ago but happend to check it last week as on holiday and it was 85% blocked again so cleaned and car goes like a rocket again.You are not saying veg oil caused the failure but the fuel lift pump on the diesel circuit which is interesting.Can you list the pressure of the pump you eventually fit I suppose if you can find the pressure of the stock VAG in tank lift pump you should match it.There is also a modification people do to PD engines running veg they modify the in tank lift pump with a by pass hose czcams.com/video/I_iB_VPatac/video.html so any excess fuel just stays in the tank they generally use this to improve the fuel feed on non Tdi engines like mine with a dedicated fuel injection pump(non PD engines)Last year when I was researching converting PD enines I did speak to a chap via eBay who said he has successfully converted several PD engines using a similar method.The lift pump situation on PD engines has been my stumbling block (switching and type of pump to use )hence the interest in yours channel.Keep it up.If you seen my channel I use a loop system on the feed to my Bosch pump(non PD)so the pump has less work to do as it is not constantly drawing fuel from the tank then sending unused fuel back again.I think If you get time to watch this 2toc video at 3mins 50 seconds he point out a loop system and I believe its on car with lift pumps? czcams.com/video/fdH6T7jHnYk/video.html
Does he use a lift pump with a pressure relief valve?do such things exist?I have seen lift pumps on ebay that are veg oil tolerent.Good Luck Great Channel.Once you find a cheap source (or free)you could look at running your heating syatem at home with a veg oil burner?Start on heating fuel then once warm switch to veg thats heated from the hot water via a heated fuel filter or just a heat exchanger.?Heating oil is about 50p per litre?
Hi Simon, Great to hear from you again. I hope lockdown isn't so bad for you. That's really interesting to hear about your ERG experiences. Just saw your e-mail with the pic - I see how that would choke the engine... I have heard people say they don't play nicely with veg oil - any truth to that?
Yes, as far as I know the veg oil itself didn't cause any of the problem... I think it was mostly the lift pump I fitted that caused the seal to go, although those seals do just fail anyway occasionally (or so I hear). The pump I have fitted now is this www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/facet-interrupter-electronic-fuel-pump-243226/ Not the cheapest, but recommended to me by a few people. When I tested it, the pressure doesn't go too high, no more than 1/2 bar, but flow rate is a touch higher than the stock lift pump.
There are such things as pressure relief valves - and I thought there was one in the tandem pump itself (so I guess I was wrong or it was malfunctioning). I saw a few for sale at demon tweaks - but none seemed to be designed for diesel fuel...
I'll watch the 2toc vid now.
Peace, Bongo.
PS interesting idea with the heating oil.. Will need to find a good free supply first, with is not happening any time soon with lockdown..
I see the closed loop system you are talking about. I wonder if overheating may be a concern? I think the tandem pump heats the fuel quite a lot, and maybe relies on incoming fuel to cool its component parts? That and the problem with polymerising in the small channels of the engine head? It's all hearsay and speculation though... I'm unsure.
EGR glogging with veg is probably the same as with diesel just check the EGR every 12 months,Dont forget diesel is dirty fuel as you will find out your heated veg oil filter element will be super clean even after several years if youve filtered used oil well whereas a diesel filter will be filthy after 12 months.
@@FloweringElbow You are feeding the tandem pump with hot(80 degrees)veg oil anyway so the tandem pump has to be able to take it a loop system would create hotter oil I dont think.Anyway your system is good as your feeding hot veg oil back to the tank so it will warm the oil in the tank up which is great in winter.Ill ask my contact whos done PD engines if he has any problems with PD veg oil systems and Tandem pumps.Look forward to new video fitting engine and new pump with switcher over relay.Cambelt kit see GSF car spares cheaper the Euro car parts.
@@simon7030 thanks for this. Yep, I'd almost forgotten that I was going to substitute a relay into where the lift pump switch is... I spent quite a while carefully examining the timing belt on the new one and concluded that it didn't really want changing, so didn't, fingers crossed 😉
they say "a stitch in time saves nine"
lol. Yeah, and a time machine could save this engine ;)
I need parts from the old engine want to sell them ?
Hi Mechanicalnut, thanks for getting in touch. I could do? What do you need? Where are you based?
Cheers, Bongo.
FloweringElbow based in the Midlands could do with quite a few bits or the entire thing to strip at my leisure
@@mechanicalnut7866 Got an e-mail, I'll drop you a message?
FloweringElbow yes Ian.ralley@outlook.com
There's no need for that drain bolt to be that tight jesusu
LOL but as I watched this I couldn't help but yell at the video NO, NO, STOP that is not it......I will add that if you have the Bentley Manual for your vehicle it will walk you step by step for any possible teardown or procedure. You will need the crank lock tool to do cam/TB work....tip do the timing belts slightly early and change the temp sensor and thermostat while coolant is out of the car and also replace the water pump and all of the rollers and one-time use bolts. Pity really that you live in the UK and with covid travel is difficult or I would be delighted to come help you work on your VW...I bet I have done 20 cam/lifter replacements in my day and it is very simple and the total kit here in the us is less than $500
Water leakage under headgasket
Water leakage notice at headcilinder
Stop your cam is toast...look at the color of the cam bearings...see the copper!!!
Hey Bruce. Certainly could have used your help earlier ;)
Spot on about the cam.
Thanks for watching.
@@FloweringElbow www.tdiclub.com 30k members worldwide who can provide answer for literally any noise or issue. Also download VCDS software which is free and purchase the proper cable... Amazing program and is more detailed than VW factory system. My car even alerts to stereo speakers that are failing. If you will help me with starting chainsaw milling to support my deep love of woodworking, I will help you with your TDI as well as a solid parts vendor in the UK
@@brucebalfour8042 Right on my friend! I do actually have VCDS - you can see the end of my engine swap vid for that jazz...
Of course, I will do what I can to help with the chainsaw milling :)
TDI club. com signup and never again be spend all of this time troubleshooting.....Veggie and computer controlled injectors do not play well....
I think that it is HIGHLY IRRESPONSIBLE to encourage people to unbolt their engines at random and start poking bits of cloth in the holes. You are just asking for something to set on fire. What if you put the wheels back on the wrong way? VERY DANGEROUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!