Why Cheap Tools Can Be Good
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- čas přidán 9. 09. 2024
- What's the biggest mistake Adam Savage made while working in model making? If Adam had to skimp on the cost of a tool, which tool would that be and why? In this live stream excerpt Adam answers these questions from Tested members @Silver Defender and @aussiemaker39, whom we thank for their support. Join this channel to support Tested and get access to perks, like asking Adam a question:
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Intro bumper by Abe Dieckman
Thanks for watching!
Whenever I start a project or hobby that requires new tools I get a relatively cheap set. When a part of that set breaks that means I use it a lot and replace it with a high quality one. The rest is usually good enough for the occasional use.
I have a similar philosophy about tools (or toys) when I'm starting a new endeavor. I get the cheapest thing I can that I'm reasonably confident will not punish me for trying. (E.g. a $15 guitar will crush just about anybody's desire to learn to play.) Then I learn and practice with that until I either get bored and quit, or get good enough to understand its limitations and start shopping for a better one.
Yeah, same. My philosophy is much like Adams. If I'm adding a new tool to my toolbox, I'll buy the cheapest one I can to see if it's actually useful and whether I use it a lot. When I break or outgrow that one, I can buy a better version that will last. Having and using the tool will teach you what's important too. I bought the cheapest table saw I could find, used it for quite a while, and when it came time to upgrade I went looking for the one in the size class I was buying with the biggest rip capacity. Owning the cheap one taught me that that rip capacity was the limitation I ran into most often. The one exception to "cheapest possible" is cordless tools. I'm already fairly heavily invested in a reasonably cheap battery system (Ryobi), so instead of buying a really cheap cordless tool and getting into a new battery system, I'll usually buy the Ryobi instead.
@@daveh7720 "the cheapest thing that won't punish me for trying." I love this phrasing, and it rolls into your later point I agree with as well about using that first purchase to "teach me what I don't know" about the tool or toy yet as well, so that I can make informed decisions of what factors inform the shopping for the next one to ensure I''ll like it.
I usually go fairly middle of the road when buying new tools.
Knowing that the increases of returns in quality level off, yet prices rise exponentially.
So it's about finding that sweet spot where you get the most bang for your buck.
And usually, it really does not matter if I pay 5 bucks for something or 50.
Even at minimum wage, that's less than a day's work.
And if a tool wouldn't save me that much time or money, I wouldn't be buying it in the first place :)
Also, I've found that avoiding the cheaper tools usually ends up saving me a lot of frustration, tinkering, returning to the store to get better tools (and thus not just money but loads of time!), and occasionally even (harmless but annoying) injuries.
So far, I'd absolutely say that I occasionally learned what to look out for next time.
But I've also almost never actually had to buy something again.
Usually, I just got the better version of something that was still usable, simply because the cheaper version had some kind of (lacking) feature that annoyed me.
To be fair, this is about basic household tools.
If I ever got to spend on bigger ticket items, the cheapest test version sounds very smart!
(except for table saws - I'd _always_ want one that bricks itself instantly if it senses flesh)
This is the way 👌
I had a very expensive wristwatch, lost it, and bought an el-cheapo $5 replacement to get me to the weekend - until I could go shopping for a decent one. That el-cheapo stayed on my wrist for 20 years and never broke.
There are a few things I have, that are useful and used regularly, that every time I use them, I'm reminded of how great an investment in it was.
You can get a highly accurate and reliable quartz digital watch for like $10 that would have sold for thousands in the early 70s
I noticed Adam is wearing an Omega Speedmaster, which is a 6 to $7,000 watch. I have a Planet Ocean, which costs about the same. I love nice watches.
Here is the thing with wrist watches. When they had gears and needed to be wound up, you had to spend a good amount of money to get one that kept the time accurately. Once digital with batteries came along, time could be kept at a low cost accurately. Wrist watches are now a piece of jewelry
Top Gears Richard Hammond taught me a life lesson in one episode. Buy the 2nd cheapest wine. I have taken that to heart my entire life. If you are gonna go cheep buy the 2nd cheapest. I also do this on the inverse, go with 2nd place. Go with the second best. It has done me wonders and saved a penny or two
Hamster can't keep the shiny side up, I go with James May's OCD everytime.
"Go with second-best" is pretty close to what I do for computer hardware. I don't buy the top end. It's always stupid-expensive. The second and third from the top will be considerably less expensive, not that much slower, and will meet my needs for years to come. Enough so that I usually end up replacing it after it fails, rather than upgrading it because I want something faster.
Theres a CZcams channel that compares a product by like 5 different manufacturers so if your unsure which to buy its worth watching a video on it to compare can i get away with 2nd or 3rd rather than cheapest
Usually the sweet spot of cost quality it´s on the margin between "the good of the cheep ones" and "the cheep of the good ones"
@@Kearnesyprojectfarm?
In Europe, we have this discount supermarket chain called Lidl. They have their own brand of tools called Parkside. These are cheap but almost always fine for hobby work and light duty around the house. I have some electrical tools, a lot of screw drivers, wrenches, sockets, etc and 99% of the stuff has served me very well.
Of course, if you start to use it a lot, or misuse it, it'll break more easily than the DeWalts and Milwaukee's of this world.
I build myself a table for my Home Office and I wanted to have round edges. Bought a router from Parkside for 30€. The result was good for my use case. And it was cheaper than renting a router at the hardware store.
Aldi are the same. Their cheap air compressor (same model but different colours as about a dozen other brands) lasted us about 10 years, and it was both cheaper than the other versions of the compressor and came with a 3 year warranty. The thing that killed it was a plastic bag blew onto the air filter, the (higher power) replacement i bought now has a wire cage fitted around it's air intakes.
That's great advice. Here, we have Harbor Freight. Same quality (not great😅) but gets the job done most of the time.
If/when one finds oneself using one or another more & breaking it, that's the one tool an upgrade might be worth.
Yup, Parkside constantly wins the battle between cheap store brands. Not by a lot, they are still cheap but if you need a budget option, go to Lidl first.
We got them in the US and I've been buying a lot of their stuff for around the house and on my work truck. They're my 'try it' brand as I can buy them, try it and if I want a better version of it, I can go spend four times the amount. I also buy some of their stuff as 'for the new kid tools'. They show me they can use that tool without breaking it, they get the namebrand stuff.
I used to go to a secondhand tool shop to get my hand tools, you could always find some incredible bargains
I wish we had that here
The closest thing we have to that in my immediate vicinity are a few antique stores, but every old tool there is massively overpriced and not worth buying... I wish we had a more dedicated shop for tools or functional antiques.
@matt-lang the second hand shop I used to go to, used to get his tools from people's garage sales, from old engineers and workmen, and from wherever he could find them
There used to be a reclaim shop by my first house. I bought almost all my outdoor hand tools from there for under $20. Paid $2 for a shovel. Great for being a young guy starting out.
@Ben-td1zv I used to find some incredible quality engineers hand tools
I do love Adam's stories on early projects....
I agree with you and another commentator. Start out with a cheap set of tools. If you use something enough to break it or wear it out, replace it with the best you can afford at that point. Some things in a set you may never use, in which case their quality is irrelevant, and the less you've wasted on them the better. What you use regularly may be worth upgrading for the aesthetic pleasure they may give in use.
The above advice does not apply to jack stands or hoists. :-)*
Or anything else that is likely to cause serious injury or death when it fails. PFDs (life jackets) are also one where you don't skimp.
Also, even when you buy quality, know how to inspect it for problems, do so regularly (ideally before each use), and if you find one, _do not use it_, even if you have to delay things to get a proper replacement. If a delay is unacceptable, keep spares on hand.
Rope, cable, and chain often are in this category, depending on the intended use.
The same goes for most art supplies. If you're learning to draw, all you need is "something to draw with" and "something to draw on" - better tools will be nicer to use, and an experienced artist might get a lot out of them, but when you're starting out it makes almost no difference. What's important is to practice often to build up the muscle memory to make the right lines, and skills you need to properly "see" which lines to make - you only get that with time and effort.
Since fancy tools won't make much of a difference, you might as well use the cheapest stuff you can get, so you can output a lot of volume without worrying about the cost, then when you've developed your skills you can upgrade your stuff and really appreciate what you're getting when you do it.
(exception, don't use cheap colour pencils - they're basically a scam)
Its important to have tools you'll own forever and tools you don't mind replacing. There are some jobs you just don't want to do with a tool you'll have forever.
Cheap tools can be modified without worry. Many years ago I need a couple of wrenchs for tight spaces. I bought a cheap set and heated them with a torch and bent them to the shape/angle required.
I keep some cheap ones around for precisely this. Nothing beats making your own tool instead of having to go buy one or wait for one that you've ordered.
Adam: “Every tool’s a hammer”. Dude with a grinder and a welder: “Every tool’s whatever you want it to be”
This plus they are the loner tools! They can be the tool you lone to that person we all know that either doesnt return stuff or breaks/messes them up.
@@mromutt Yes....especially if you have kids or nephews...or nieces
@@drmodestoesq haha I specifically had my nephew in mind when I said that
That second part needs to be it's own video so we can share the good word about cheap tools. Almost every time I see someone online asking about power tools there's a professional recommending dewalt, makita, etc. when a store brand tool that costs the same as a battery for the big brand tools would be perfectly fine for the person asking.
I have learned to enjoy Wen tools for this very reason. They don't have as many features but get the job done for a lot less.
Agree 100%! I'm at the save of my tool acquisition journey where I've got everything I absolutely have to have for the kinds of things I'm building (and decent quality versions of quite a few things). The tools I'm buying these days are things that are great if you've got them, but I'll probably only use occasionally. My palm router is decent, but sometimes it's more convenient to have the router mounted somewhere and bring the work piece to it. I bought a dirt cheap eBay router and router lift and built a simple little benchtop router table. For the times I've used it it's been awesome. It was totally worth me spending $150 for a simple router table, while a $1000+ for the "pro level" router table it completely out of reach.
Adam, next time you see a tool that claims to be "mil-spec", remember that the food that is served in an army mess hall is made to "mil-spec"
One of the only places on earth you can be served "rare" chicken and be unable to send it back for food safety reasons.
after spending over a decade in the military i can confirm that mil-spec is just another way of saying 'this is the cheapest, crappest quality item we can get away with'. its the opposite of quality.
Kinda like the boast that their tool or material is "contractor grade."
The American Civil War was a perfect example of that. If your commanding officer came from a rich family he often bought better equipment for his men with his own money.
"Mil-spec" means "the cheapest thing that an 18-year-old can't break"
I passed an illegal dump pile and made my apprentice go with me on the clock to raid it. My point was to show her all the free usable stuff we could get. Screwdrivers, high end calculators, paint brushes, bunch of stuff. She can leave it laying on jobsites to her hearts content as it was all free.
I love finding those illegal dumps because sometimes you can find some really good stuff
Then other times, other think you are the ones dumping.
@@wobblysauce that's usually the way it goes people seem to enjoy jumping to the wrong conclusions
I have been making a lot of compost. Enough that I will be able to sell some when it's done. Almost have the material are from a tree trimmer that was illegally dumped
As a prop maker, im lucky my block often throws out old things on the corners for pick up. I've cut so much cabling, computer parts and fabrics from junked machines or couches etc that i basically have a near never-ending stockpile of materials to work with.
People need to learn when you buy a tool you're not really buying the tool..You're buying the result. For example, when you buy a drill bit, you're really buying holes. If you need a lot of holes fast you buy a better bit. If you just need one hole, a cheap bit will do just fine.
That is a good way of looking at it.
"When you buy a tool, you're buying the result" - I need that hung up in my garage.
@davken1102 ah but a cheap bit won't perform anywhere near as well for the likes of drilling out seized screws. Used a Ti bit last week for the first time and it just cut through a fastener like it was nothing. Sometimes it's better spending the extra.
@@Squirrelking4395 I recently had to buy a bolt extractor, and I reminded myself that I was really buying 2 hours of time with an impact and at least 3 trashed sockets, which made me feel a bit better lol.
Stupid unlabeled customary bolts. Also got laughed at by a dude at HD for looking for a metric set, yay MERICA 🤣
Id love to see Adam do a series where he retries old builds like this, remaking them knowing what he does now.
I'm an artist working with pencil, ink, colour pencil.
I've found over the years that it's *really* important to me to have good quality colour pencils, if you try to colour or shade any work with cheap pencils, it's impossible to get good results. I feel bad for all those kids who are given cheap pencils that don't lay the pigment down well, and conclude they suck at art because they can't make anything look nice.
I really value good quality pigment liners for my ink work. Cheap ones tend to crack and spit ink around, or they have inconsistent line width, or they wear out fast, or they're not properly black. Using a Uni Pin or a Derwent Line Maker makes a big difference.
When it comes to the pencil I use for construction lines... it really doesn't matter much. Of course you can use a blackwing, or an expensive mechanical pencil (and I use an expensive mechanical pencil). But, if I use a cheap unbranded knockoff pencil, so long as I can get it sharp and the lead isn't shattered to bits, I can sketch out those initial lines fine with basically anything. Hell, Adam uses papermate mechanical pencils (and I think those are garbage!) but they get the job done, you could live out of that if you had to.
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I think it's great to ask experts where to spend your money on tools, because some of them you need quality to use well, and some of them it's just a little quality of life.
I rate this video 10 buckets out of 10
We have a “Re-use-it” store in our town. It has three different stores, one is used furniture, one old stuff like binders and another of old tools. Drawers of old sockets, screwdrivers and other such wonderfulness.
The ball-tube thing blew my mind and made complete sense with your 5-second explanation. Why don’t they teach us this in school?!? 😅
If I remember nothing else from this video, the bit about tubes and balls and rails is definitely useful knowledge to keep in the memory attic
I love the way a commercial for Harbor Freight popped up directly after this video. My wife calls it “The Dollar Tool Store”! Haha
If i remember correctly, from the full story, the machine included a pitching machine to toss the balls, but it was turned down insanely low. Adam later learned its near impossible for a machine like that to accurately toss balls which is what caused the problems. He got paid in full and the suits in charge didn't even bother to use it in the end. "heres your check, we dont like the idea anymore, throw it away" type thing.
Is there a video of this on the interviews?
@@pr0xZen hes told the full story in a few videos, I cant find the one I want, but he covers more of the story in "defcon 17 - adam savage - failure"
@@pr0xZen and also mentioned parts of it in "how old navy indirectly led to mythbusters pilot" about 2 months ago.
@@pr0xZen also talks about it in the video titled - Adam Savage: Colossal Failures [Fora TV] [Maker's Faire 2009] [Brilliant Talk]
I have a drill press I got at a yard sale for something like 80$. The guy said it was broken and for the price I figured I could replace the motor if I had to. I ended up not even needing to buy a part. A single switch was slightly bent so it wouldn't turn on. I bent it back and I had a good drill press for a good price. I've done the same for a lot of my tools. Being able to restore a second hand tool is an incredible skill
I remember this story because of the balls in tubes vs balls on rails detail. I appreciate getting to learn on your behalf!
Tale of 2 tools.
1/2" Breaker bar. Needed to remove 1 nut. Bought the "consumer" grade and broke it. Returned it, spent $10 more of the "professional" grade, removed the nut and it over the decades have used it here and there for other less strenuous jobs.
Angle grinder. Was told by foundation repair experts to buy the cheapest Princess Auto/Powerfist (think HorrorFreight) and a wire brush to clean spalling off my basement foundation - the dust will destroy everything, so treat it as disposable. I did. And still have and use that grinder for odd jobs today.
I see you're not a H-F fan but consider this: If the tool has a life-time warranty you still have only bought it once.
Buying a cheap first version also allows you to figure out what you need in a better version. Maybe you need one which is larger, or smaller, or longer, or more ridged, or whatever.
This goes for making your finished product too, especially in sewing!!
I didn't get the first time my mom did it, she just said she wanted to get used to a new pattern, but I've made sure to explain it to my kids time and again. It's much easier to pin something in place, try it, and then take out pins to move stuff than it is to sew then rip out a seam, but even more than that, good material is EXPENSIVE, if you want to make a formal dress, make a version in cheaper fabric (which is often still wearable) first, test alterations in paper or (uncut) draped fabric if you're worried about how it will lay.
I was very heavily into auto restoration and the old car hobby from 89 to 06, and then I got back into it in 2022. Cheap tools have a very real and very important (and quite prominently common) place in my tool box. Unless you're a pro, you will be using these tools as light duty. For reference, I would remove the engine and strip the front end sheet metal down to the frame in my 1970 convertible every spring, so I'm not talking about a couple of 10-32s once every few years. I built engines, did bodywork, replaced tops, reverse engineered badly made replacement parts, upholstery rewired harnesses...anyway. Harbor Freight is my friend. I don't spend my budget on shiny new pro tools. I buy used tools, like old Stanely socket wrenches, and cheap tool that I can cut up, bend, modify, and use up, and if I need specialty stuff, I look at what my local Harbor Freight has and I do a bit of research to see if it's crap or not. Most of the time it's actually good for the _light duty_ that I subject them to.
The other trick with tools is if you can find a workshop or makers group where you can rent or borrow a tool to try it.
I work in glass and the minimum tools are really simple, costing under $100 for a full set up, but even the advanced beginner tools can be in the thousands (but let you do things in 1% of the time or making designs available that are otherwise impossible). Having a local workshop that rents out shop time and kiln space meant that I was able to see just what I was really interested in for my set up before picking just the pieces that work best for me. AND I got bonus advice from those more experienced in the field and wiht those tools before buying ;D
Just the small fact about the rails with ball oscillation is fascinating. I'd love to hear tons of Adam's learned nuggets like that which only come up for specific scenarios!
I always love hearing your reasoning process for a design or scenario. It's always so very thoroughly thought out and instructive.
I agree, cheap tools can be great. I have a few cheap tools which I only occasionally need, and while they're not always the nicest or easiest to use, I'm always glad I was able to do what I needed to.
I bought a set of files for like $10 8 years ago and they are still phenomenal. I couldn't fit the swarf those things havecut in to a bucket. I bought a $160 set when I was in fabrication and they weren't all that much better.
"Why Cheap Tools Can Be Good" segment is super important i think as advice. Find the tool you want to try or see if it works for you BEFORE you splurge on the expensive one. You might lose out some 20 bucks or so BUT in return you know for a fact if something is an item you'll use or if it helps your work flow. I've recently done that with a few modelling tools like circle cutters, model-specific masking tape or other small tidbits and its amazing how much more efficient you can be with a tool thats realtively uniquely designed for your task. Dont be afraid of 2nd hand stuff either, because at least this way you can find out for yourself if an item is just a fancier "something else you have" or the ONE tool that you always needed.
I find the journey Adam had to get to this point in the prop making industry very interesting.
I love this story, thank you for sharing.
As someone who has had tools in his hand at work and in my hobbies for over 40 years all I have to say is if it gets the job done it was a good choice, if not upgrade to the tool that does. Time = money. Perspective goes a long way.
100%. My one exception is if it is something that is PROVEN (not marketed) to reduce strain on your physical health if it's something you use all the time.
Best thing I did was work at Harbor Freight while going to high school. I don't remember taking home a paycheck but I still have many of those tools. Currently working on that commission job, loosing sleep... All that glorious wisdom!
A lot of my favorite tools were really cheap at garage sales in flea markets... Sometimes you find stuff there for a couple of bucks that you just can't find.
I keep cheap tools around for friends and family because if they break a tool I’m not out a lot of money, cheap tools are also good for when your learning a new skill set or needing to take said tools onto a job site
So I don't work with tools. I'm a political and economics analyst (I basically am trained to translate bullsh*t to muggle). But your first story resonated a lot with me, because while I've never built a Rube Goldberg machine, I have had to explain why limnic erruptions (look up Lake Nyos mass death event) qre a thing and could be an insurance nightmare in certain areas of the DRC and kinda got the point across... and got a bonus for but it wasn't what I wanted... it wasn't the standard I set myself, but I guess it was enough... I feel you.
Also I'm probably posting this one minute before my 35th birthday. I remember Mythbusters debuting in 2003. You, Jamie, and the team did an amazing job. 21 years later and you're still sharing a genunine love of learning and speaking about growing as a professional in a real way. Thank you ❤
I have a feeling his rig ran fine until the AC unit or Fridge or Microwave was called for which lead to more Amps being pulled. More amps pulled results in a minor loss in voltage. You may have seen your lights dim when the AC kicks on. This reduction in voltage, though minimal, probably slowed the pitching machine motor just enough to not get the ball where it needed to be. Something no one would have thought of without the hindsight resulting from the error.
My first job was as a lube tech at a small automotive shop at the time matco pulled into the parking lot every Tuesday I working out of a small toolset I got from Walmart and kept breaking extensions wasn’t a big deal till I ran out of extensions (I started with like 30 different ones because I had been gathering a small collection of tools since middle school. That last 6 inch extension snapped or twisted (I don’t remember exactly how it failed) I went on the truck the following day and spent $130 on a set of extensions that had a 14 inch ratchet included in the deal. To this day I use that ratchet more than the extensions but the value of a good tool isn’t lost on me. I typically like to find the cheapest good tool I can find and it’s amazing how often that leads me to actually making a tool rather than buying one. A good example of this is a small block Chevy oil pump is actually driven off the cam by the distributor. There’s a tool specifically designed to prime the engine with oil before starting it. I cut a distributor down and made that tool out of the center shaft and chuck it in a drill to pump oil up that way
100% agree with this I have a drawer of Ryobi tools that I use every now and then. If I use it enough to break it, I upgrade.
I also make sure I save the old and cheap tools in a drawer of my toolbox. Those are great to modify or loan out.
As a full time mechanic, my toolbox and tool cart, which is Husky btw, is 95% Harbor Freight tools. Pittsburg and Icon have warranties much like snapon, matco and such. I break it, I can get it replaced more than likely for free. The most expensive tool set I have is a Matco ratchetting end wrench set 8mm to 19mm. My regular wrench set is hypertough from walmart of all places which I've had for 5 years and have yet to break or bend one. I even have a balljoint press I got off amazon for $50 4 years ago. I bent it a little but it still works! Buy cheap first and upgrade as needed. If you get 2+ years out of it and breaks, buy it again. At that point the work you've done has paid for the tool by a large magnitude lol
Guys, get one of those cheap digital calipers for 5 bucks. Maybe 2 or 3, if your shop is big.
one of the tools I use most - just because it's always on hand and precise enough for most measurements.
My Mitutoyo digimatic calipers have paid for themselves in batteries I didn't have to replace. Because those cheap calipers just eat through batteries. I have a couple cheap pairs of calipers too so I know. But don't get counterfeit calipers. Get them from an authorized dealer. There are no deals to be had out there.
I agree with buying cheap tools either new or second-hand. I've got a selection of professional-grade second-hand tools that I've either replaced batteries or motors for 10% of the new cost and my knife sharpening gear, whetstone grinder, 1x30 belt grinder and fixed angle system cost around £400 total ($500)for all 3 instead of £3500+ and the results are as far as I can tell, identical.
That word slip at the end is a good point for getting new tools. A 5 gallon bucket with a lid can be an alright toolbox/garbage can/chair for lunch time.
I changed my opinion on cheap tools after I lived overseas and saw craftsmen making museum quality pieces using junk that I would have passed over at a garage sale back home! I remember that I had to buy a complete SAE wrench set for my car, since the local shops were happy to get "close enough with their on-hand tools though.
Great advice about cheap tools! One caveat. Any simple tool with a cutting edge the cheapest version simply wont do the job, cutting requires one corner and if the manufacturer cuts that corner then the tool wont cut. Drill bits, nippers, even basic razors i have found the cheapest ones often fail to do the one thing they need to. The next cheapest is often just fine.
I don’t necessarily buy cheap tools often, usually I’m given them or acquire through other means.
However I do have a lifetime supply of 46 and 36mm 3/4 impact sockets from a local railway project, I got a few buckets full of misc sockets as well.
As always, thank you Adam and the Test team. Have a great weekend and a good rest. Adam will be tireless and do something new on the weekends. Thank you very much.
A tool needs to do the job you intend to do with it, and stand up to your usage pattern. I don't always buy the cheapest option and upgrade when needed; I do some research first, and think about how and how often the tool is going to be used. For instance:
- SDS Hammer drill: cheapy Chinesium one: does the job, and I don't use it very often. It's starting to come apart... after 15 years. Good enough.
- 1/2" ratchet: a more expensive Gedore set. My experience with cheap ratchets has been terrible, and I expect this tool to see frequent and heavy use. Worth the extra money.
- Welder: got the 3-in-1 Parkside one and it works great. I don't do a lot of welding but the machine needs to work well when I need it. A few reviews convinced me this was the machine for me.
- Sanders: Festool ones. Frequent use, and I wanted quality and comfortable use, as well as excellent dust collection. These came highly recommended so I spent the extra cash on them.
I recently bought a nail gun and I wanted cordless, so I limited my choice to the 3 brands that I already had batteries for. I settled on a relatively expensive DeWalt gun, not because I expected heavy use, but because it had some features I might need in the future that the others lacked. Again, doing some thinking and research will (hopefully) save some money down the line.
Cheap tools are also just nice to have around for the sake of modifying them to fit a specific use. I have a drawer in my tool chest of “specialty” tools I may only use once every 3 years and a good 1/3 of them are modified tools that allowed me to complete a task without waiting for something to be shipped or spending an arm and a leg for an option that’s been out of production for 30+ years.
Coming from the car mechanic world, I have often got cheap tools, just to modify them, either it is to cut a wrench in half to make a smaller version for specific jobs, use heat to bend them etc... Usually you get special tools for it, but when you just have that cheap tool, and some creativity availible, then you modify stuff to get it to do the job you need to.
When I was looking at becoming a diesel fitter, I was advised to get the cheapest tools possible. Then, when they start to wear out or tools that I use all the time that a better quality version would be more helpful, then upgrade THOSE tools to good quality ones.
The other thing that you gain when learning on a cheap tool is that you learn what you want in a good one. Be it a ergonomics, capacity, extra features, etc. Not only will v2.0 of that tool be of better quality in a broad sense, but it will be better for what you personally want it for.
Another great thing about the cheap tools: you're more willing to permanently modify a cheap tool to meet your needs.
I started playing accordion. I needed a 'pin pulling tool' in order to grip the pins which hold the case of the instrument closed without damaging them as pliers would. So I bought cheap pliers and modified the jaws with a rotary tool. Had I instead bought the "professional" pin puller, I would be another hundred dollars poorer for a tool I have used once.
Cheap tools are definitely a great way to start out. I have some multi-function screw drivers and an air compressor from Harbor Freight that was easily half the cost of name brand from Home Depot.
I have since replaced the cheaper screw driver with a Klein, and then the Klein with a ratchteing screw driver from Linus Tech Tips.
The Klein is still always nearby though. The 6-in-1, Extended Reach has just been so useful for so many things.
10 buckets was the highlight of this video 😂
My first tool set was a cheap one from an auto parts store -- "Allied" brand and made in China. Once I started using them, they began to fall apart. I split several of the sockets and wrenches. I upgraded to a nice Craftsman set (still made in the USA at the time) and that set has lasted 25 years. The Allied stuff still has a use, though (and Harbor Freight stuff, too)! I recently needed a very thin box-end wrench and took an angle-grinder to one of my Allied wrenches to get the job done. I have no problem modifying cheap tools for special purposes and often buy cheap tools to mangle or modify.
I would be cool if adam does a one-day build or multi-day, depending on the intricacies of the machine.
A rebuild of that machine to see if he can make it work better and longer than before, with all of his years of experience backing him now
I'm always amazed with Harbor Freight tools. They last way longer than I expect for that price difference 99.9% of the time.
My old man taught me through his bad example that it doesnt matter how much your tools cost if you cant find them when you need them!
There are a lot of tools that make no sense to spend a lot of money on. Others, you throw away money on buying cheap versions. I hear that line falls depends on what you do.
I’m not a painter. I buy a pack of cheap brushes. A professional painter is better served by buying a better quality brush.
I RELATE TO ADAM SO MUCH ,I HAVE TO KNOW HOW EVERYTHING WORKS,LOVE THIS GUY AND HIS KNOWLEDGE AND ADVICE 😎😎🇬🇧🇬🇧🤜🤛🇺🇸🇺🇸
One comment about UK general elections - currently we do not vote for a national party, we vote for a local representative - who may represent a national party. The party with the most MPs forms a government - but it is theoretically possible for a political party to win an election, but their leader not win his seat
If time pressure isn't a huge factor, then buying second hand is often the best option, but remember there are far better places to buy second hand than Ebay or Craigslist. You'll often find quality gear changing hands in local clubs, makers groups, or online forums. You're less likely to be scammed, and the overall quality of tools for sale will likely be high.
I don’t always start with a cheap tool. Sometimes it’s worthwhile to buy the good one right away. In my job we have a certain set of tools that get used daily and used hard. That’s where the Flukes and Milwaukees and the like come in. Others we use often, but are pretty light duty. Like the two specific nut drivers we use to remove and replace grounding nuts from circuit boards. They don’t have to be super skookum even though it might get pulled out 10 times a day. So the $10 set of Huskys from Home Depot are ok. If they wear out in a couple years it’s no big deal to get another set. Then there’s stuff that’s “I’ve been here 5 years and only needed this danged thing once.” The cheapest one that will actually complete the job will be just fine.
Choosing to walk away from a construction job that was destroying my body at a pace I'd never imagined was possible put me exactly where I needed to be to land my current job heading up QA at an indie game studio. If I'd stayed on I wouldn't have been home to answer the door when opportunity came knocking.
On the cheap tools front I'm generally in agreement with the "start cheap; upgrade when it breaks" system, but I make exceptions for things that could cause serious injury if they fail catastrophically. A visit to the ER cancels out anything I could possibly save on tools.
The advice for cheap tools is also good for things which have a lot of variation and quality of life addons. For example when my parents got a snowblower they got the cheapest no-frills one that would just last one winter. After that experience they were able to look at all the other fancier options ans say "which of these would I have liked to have?" The exit feed on the cheap one clogged easily so look at how those are designed, but they didn't need one that was twice as big or had heated handles for the amount of use they did.
I'll take a cheap version of the right tool any time over any version of the wrong one. I'm not going to use anything professionally so buying something like an aliexpress set of ratcheting crimpers makes such a huge difference to the quality and ease of my work versus trying to just trying to mash terminals on a wire with pliers again. The cheap availability of such a wide variety of tools has changed the game for hobby makers.
I used to work in plastic injection molding. The nozzle on the end of the barrel was almost always 15/16th and way down inside the machine. You had to risk getting burned each time you struggled to get it off. I went to a used tool place. Found a 15/16th wrench for $2 and took it to work. It was bent at just the right angle to fit way in there and get a hold on the nozzle. Everyone would borrow my special tool to remove the nozzles after that. 2 bucks.
Yes, the evolution of the maker budget. Year one you're like "holy crap $200 for one tool." Year 10 you're like "holy crap only $15k for this lathe."
Adam is on point ☝️ totally agree with him 💯💯💯
I recently bought a $30 ozito jigsaw. I usually run Milwaukee, that would cost me $300 in kangaroo country. I use it twice a year. I usually work with metal!
I'm 62 and now that I can afford good tools, I have a contrarian feng shui method for purchasing: if I pick up a tool and it gives me joy, I buy it.
I still struggle a bit to watch Adam's videos... your videos, for no fault of your own, obviously. It's just you really remind me of my late father. You shared similar mannerisms and an ability for precision and attention to detail. But my father was a cranky bitter old bastard while you are, as far as your public persona seems to be, a kind, enthusiastic and fun person to be around. It's like you're my father's long lost brother but his polar opposite in terms of your outlook on life.
I wish he had been more like you and shared his knowledge with me. I ended up burning out due to working and studying mech. engineering full time trying to make him proud, even after he passed due to colon cancer. I now still engage with my creative tinkering side but I am officially disabled (burnout, CPTSD and PTSD). If it isn't clear, I'm a huge fan of yours and wish you all the best!
I like having a mix of cheap tools and excellent tools. I treat the cheapies incredibly disrespectfully, which opens up options and creativity. To me they're more like disposable temporary power-ups, akin to potions in an RPG.
Swap meets and yard sales are great places to find tools. Estate sales can be great too! And don't feel bad about getting an amazing deal on an otherwise expensive tool. Things are worth what someone is willing to pay. If I see a name-brand tool at a sale for a dollar, who am I to complain? That is what the seller is willing to accept.
good advice on tool purchase
juicy gems of goodness I was previously unaware of.
6:04 I call this "growing into your tools."
There was a time in my life were I was fortunate enough to be provided a beautiful set of professional tools. And I quickly discovered that they were essentially useless to me because I didn't know how to use them. When I was presented with the problem that those tools were designed to solve with all the finesse and professionalism as the best F1 race team, I never thought to use the tool because I'd never learned how to use the tool. It didn't present itself as an option to me.
When you buy a tool, expect to have a learning curve to understand how to use it correctly, and when to use it at all. Buy the first tool to get the job done. Buy the second to get the job done right.
I have a Harbor Freight cheater bar and impact socket in my trunk that I use as a lug wrench.
My dad always taught me to buy cheap tools first. If I don't break them then I don't need to upgrade them. If I do break them then I must be using it enough to need better tools.
As a hobby woodworker, I'm totally on board with your school of thought on buying cheap tools. I have some tools I got inexpensively that I still use to this day. There are others that after proving their usefulness I upgraded a bit. I'm saving to upgrade my table saw from a Harbor Freight Hercules job site saw to a modest upgrade of the Delta 36-725t2. Would a saw stop or similarly high quality cabinet saw be nice? Sure!
(continued) However I don't need such a saw at this point in my journey. Perhaps somewhere down the line that will be the case but until then I'll manage just fine with the tools I can currently afford.
But my Snap On tool truck rep told me that if I own any non-Snap On tools, I will not go to heaven.
Thank you for the insite on cheap tools you are so right, I have done the same thing sometimes a cheap tool is the perfect tool.you don't need the most expensive one when you may only use it 3 or 4 times in your life
Would be awesome to see a one day build trying to make that ball machine work!
I have a 4” grinder I bought at Harbor freight 20+ years ago paid around $9-10 used it yesterday still works
Sometimes you also need fewer tools to get started than you might think. I’ve been making wire work jewelry for 10+ years now and I’m still basically using four tools: a pair of needle nosed pliers (that I nicked from my dad 🤫), two pairs of round nosed pliers, and a pair of nail clippers. I did buy a mandril for making rings but I hate making rings and do so as little as possible. There are lots of other tools for jewelry making but so far I haven’t found anything I wanted to make that I couldn’t accomplish with the tools that I have.
I have a ton of cheap tools. They're the go to. Both because cheap tools aren't always the worst tools (heck i paid nearly 100e for a quality wrench and found it wanting) but also because cheap tools ... i don't mind mucking about with, even modifying. It also teaches you restraint. You can't mess something up if your tool has a lower grade of cheese. So keeping cheap tools around is not only good for your pocket, but also a smart decision when dealing with some things. Good tools come out when you want more or want perfection. Work doesn't always need to be perfect either, it needs to be adequate. When work needs to be perfect, you better put on the old white coat - get in the mentality. Mixing the two - that's how you get ruined things and people blaming their tools or the things they fix. Those reading know exactly the type of person i'm talking about, we've all come across them one time or another.
Wait, you're going to Brisbane?
I need to book a flight back home!
hmm bucket based ecomony. i'd buy that for a bucket
Living in the backcountry in Hawaii I found buckets literally were a form of currency. You need a bucket for basically any back country activity including sitting.
here I'm wonder if they are empty of full of something.
Even that has been affected by inflation, what used to be a $3.50 item is now $7-8
….and a tier 2 bucket would have to include a lid 🙄
Great.To.Learn.With 4 words to sum it up. Taught myself how to work on cars with harbor freight tools most of which are still in my toolbox
The way I've always approached tools are one, can they do the job you need them to do without creating too much extra work/time/effort, two how long does it need to last. Is it a one time job or is this something you'll need to do regularly? If it's something you will rarely use, it might be worth the cheaper tool even if it does take more time or effort to use it, but if the tool risks a costly mistake, get a better tool that won't risk the mistakes even if it you don't use it often because those mistakes can easily cost more than the better tool did.
Harbor Freight makes a lot of perfectly adequate tools and some that are really really good along with some that are basically disposable. Some jobs you know you will need a disposable tool for as even the good tool will take a lot of abuse. I have no qualms about buying cheap sockets from them that I might need to cut down or grind down, why pay lots extra for a nicer socket if that's the case.
I think we should not be separated as creators by cheap or expensive tools but come together as creators with basic and professional tools. There is a wide difference in the business place between cheap and basic or expensive and professional. Cheap can actually mean expensive in business and together it can ruin creators. Basic and professional are not opposites either but they both allow creators to better experiment with new disciplines furthering their crafts.
The cheapest tools I've used were self made. Usually simple jigs or guides to save time on repetitive measuring when I could just take some 1x2 lumber and rig up something to draw against and save up a lot of time. My boss of course thought this was a waste of time to make a jig instead of just using a tape measure every single time for over a hundred screw placements in each building module. He didn't understand efficiency at all unless it involved raw strength.
This right here!
I think most people who are truly interested in making things build tools to make their job easier/faster (better quality, increased repeatability, etc.).
The people who don't understand this? They pretty much always wind up in sales or management, maybe because of the Peter principle, maybe for other reasons.
Yes, self made tools are the best.
And best part? More tools you have, the more tools you can make.
I bought a small hammer at Dollar Tree years ago for $1. It broke the first time I used it. So maybe Dollar Tree isn't the best place to buy tools. But I've bought several tools at Harbor Freight and never had a problem. When I need a tool that I know is vitally important to my job, I buy the best I can afford at the time within reason, but when it's something I won't use often, cheaper can be better sometimes.
I think the cry once buy once mantra works if you are a mechanic where your tool set is going to change very little over your career. Or any other career field where the same tools are used daily. As a home owner, maker, or other multi-discipline user; cheap tools make more sense to allow a budget to include needed capabilities. If you buy a tool and use to the point of breakage you can then have a better understanding of what you want and in need in the replacements. You then can buy the “best” or replace with a cheap tool again.
2:20 can someone pls like sample this
Alot of the Good or Cheep questions matter what situation you're in. ...I work in Various locations and it's Much Smarter to get MULTIPLE Tools rather than 'Good'...(Especially counting the number that have disappeared, dropped, burned out, drowned, got lost etc.) ...being able to say 'eh whatever...i'll just use drill #3' has saved me 100's of times.