Were the Upgrades Worth It??? Getting the RAD Charger running again!
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- čas přidán 24. 06. 2023
- VOTE for us to WIN HERE!!!
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Today we get the old Mopar 360 start again, we also prep the steering box and steering pump to push bigger tires around! We have a lot of work ahead of us to get this ready.
Our Competitors…
Dirt lifestyle Nate with the Lexus: www.youtube.com/@DirtLifestyl...
Bleepin Jeep with the s-10: / @bleepinjeep
I Have Merch Available NOW!!! rudysadventureanddesign.com/
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I live this competition, and i hope someone gets to enjoy winning the popular vote. However UA has never had this much press, praise and attention. UA would be crazy not to invite all three teams to go anyway. The motor trend app, would see a huge boost in subscribers. The UA videos are under produced, too short, the interviews are almost nonexistant, they have boring narration, and most of the participants are unknown corporate off road industry ceo's so nobody cares who they are. Most of the rigs now cost hundreds of thousands of dollars, so they are unrelatable. They have the opportunity to invite 6 youtubers who are great on camera, and know how to film an exciting compelling video, who built awesome, affordable, relatable rigs, and who have huge online followings that would live to see the rigs and teams they have followed for months on this build actually use them. This is an opportunity for UA to change from a corporate ceo retreat where they congratulate themselves for having all the money, that nobody cares to watch, to an actually compelling adventure with interesting watchable people and relatable builds. The Ceo's who go every year, can already go anywhere anytime, send them back to their private jets where they belong!!!!!
This ^^^^^^^^. I live for the videos these teams are putting out even before this build series. Enjoy them so much more then anything on TV although have enjoyed the new shows Derek and Hoovie are on. Lol
100% agree. They also need to add UA to Motor Trend+ so us paid subscribers can actually watch it not the older UA's that are 15min videos with poor production value.
Yep
Totally agree 100%
Well said !
You prove yourself every day Rudy. Good luck on your new project. Keep it up and have fun doing it.
Rudy I love your attitude! You take everything in stride and who was a happy boy when that kicked over! Awesome video👍👍👍👍
Good job Rudy, I think the 360 is going to like the improvements you have done.
Really is great to see a young (realities speaking) kid/couple build his skills and grow a business. Keep up the good work.
Couple of tricks from an old forklift mechanic. When trying to put on a new hose heat the end a bit with hot water or a heat gun. Also a little dab of gojo hand cleaner is a good lubricant for the hose end.
Awesome job Rudy ,you always say you don't know what your doing but I have to tell you you are very very smart. Hopefully Hollie can return and give you a hand.
Good Morning Rudy the motor sounds amazing and I can already tell the difference just in how it sounds. I really hope you and Hollie get the chance to go on Ultimate adventure.
Seems to me anybody giving you advice got their experience the same way you are. As long as you aren't damaging irreplaceable parts, looks like a win to me, you're doing great!
So sorry to hear that Hollie was hurt. Prayers for her were sent. Your sweet girlfriend will be awesome while Hollie recovers.
When drilling blind holes like that I coat the drill bit and the tap heavily with grease to catch any shavings and remove and clean it periodically.
Keep at it bud! You and Hollie will get it done!
The best type of your videos. Building stuff, troubleshooting, fixing and finding a way.
Rudy, you never quit! The fabrication of small things, like clamps and brackets, saves money on every build. You learn how to build mounts and brackets that you can use on every project. The grease on drill bits also works on the taps. Keep posting, your a winner..
When putting smaller heater hose on a larger barb, I've always used some grease instead of trying to enlarge the end of the hose. Hope this helps. God bless and stay well.
Boil a pan of water on a stove or a mug of water in the microwave, soak hose end in hot water for a minute, quickly coat barb generously with dish soap ($1.25 Store Awesome brand works awesome for this) while hose is heating up and pop it right on. No grease residue to turn the water hose to putty and the soap rinses off with water.
Best!
ATABOY !!!!!!!!!! I knew you could do it Rudy .So happy for you. Keep up the great work.👍🤘☮✌👌😁😲
Rudy, I’m all in for your team and this Ram Charger! Tough competition to be sure, and it will be fun, but I’m rooting for you guys!
Same here 🤙🏻
That's a win Rudy. Keep building.
Rudy - I LOVE your “I can do that” ethic, your comfortable communication with your audience, and your wide ranging skills. I wish you had a partner I felt better about, especially since she’s the only woman in the competition. Honestly, I think you’d have a better chance as a soloist. Good Luck to you!
I love what you are doing to that old 360. You are definitely going to have the power advantage over your rivals. I have been thinking about your roll cage. Because you have a vulnerability regarding the side windows, I think it might be smart to build an external roll cage and add some expanded metal to protect the windows.
I'm all for exocages as trying not to smack my head is a full-time job.
The problem with exo cages is that you can never truly have adequate triangulation unless it goes into the cab (hybrid cage). If you do that, you’re just using a ton of tube and adding unnecessary weight. Internal cages can always be built stronger with more triangulation and less tube. Rather than worry about protecting the rear glass, just pull it out and increase ventilation at the same time.
@@ramchargergarage Pulling the glass out on Ultimate Adventure would be very unwise. It involves overlanding for a whole week. You and all of your gear are gonna' get wet. Last year UA went to Alaska, so without glass they would have gotten kinda' cold.
@@ramjam720 they went to Alaska in 2019. It’s less overlanding than it is extreme rock crawling with a lot of pavement road days in between. None of them camp inside the cab of their vehicles. It would be unwise to bank on the glass not breaking in an effort to stay dry. If that was the case and it broke day 1, they would be SOL.
Looking good! This is a flashback to my crunch time before Fullsize Invasion last year. I am anxiously looking forward to more videos, keep up the good work!
I just started voting for you & Holli I'll vote everyday cause you guy's are awesome, great video thank's for sharing God bless ❤😎👍
Keep going!!!! I hope to see more
Add a Supercharger like Lone Wolf McQuade. 🐺 🔥🔥🔥 Bad A$$ Rudy keep it up! 💯💯👊🏾
I run a 87 ramcharger I call it The Danger Zone!! Mines a total bogger I love the build!
Great & Informative Video Rudy. Thanks for Sharing.
Rudy, you got a lot done!! Nice problem solving! I know you will get everything set up and running like a beast in no time.
I love Ramchargers I'm a huge fan I owned two of them, one was a 78 with a 360 4brl and the other was an 89 with a fuel-injected 360 I had a ton of fun with both trucks including a whole bunch a whole bunch of off roading madness!
Molar uses 5/8 and 3/4 heater hoses. The parts store should have the 3/4 in bulk. Great job on modifying the ram.
It’s coming along nicely so far. Ruddy. Can’t wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. God bless.
Engine sounds good it always seems like your winging it but you always seem to get it done good job great video
Awesome job and video stay safe from GA and God bless
Acquire a little "Foxsur battery charger; They are super cheap and work great. You should grab two or three of them and always keep them on your batteries-- and they will never go dead. I like them because they display the charging voltage, amps charging and temperature. Pretty sweet little setup for the cost. Plus, when you unplug it-- but still have your cables hooked to the battery; it will act as a volt meter and give you the voltage of the battery itself. Pretty cool; so it will still turn on by the 12volts, even when it's unplugged. Best bang for the dollen that I've found for a charger/ maintainer. And they are "smart"- meaning you can keep them hooked up all the time and they will not overcharge the battery, but will keep it topped off. Super useful.
Hi Rudy, this is a very timely video for me. I was working on porting the steering box for my power wagon this weekend using the same forum article that you were. I see that you ran in to the same issue I did on the second hole, lack of confidence inspiring amount of thread engagement. After looking around for what would be called a bottoming tap in the non tapered world I found that they do not exist. What I ended up doing is modifying a second ¼ NPT tap by removing about ½” off and that allowed me to get proper thread engagement. Thanks for your videos!
seamless butt connectors are far better than soldering. soldered connections fatigue
Always mount your fuel pump as close to the fuel as possible. This is the reason car fuel pumps are in the tanks! It is easier to push fuel then it is to pull it! Plus it helps to reduce vapour locking!
1stGenz, ChawjahBoiz n RAD
FFS BODY PANELS, flare w/ Bodyline 🤙🏽
😳
Your mechanical abilities are mind blowing. I love how you just dive right in and figure it out. Sounds beefy
Good job. Voting for you. Hoping for you. Give ‘em heck!!
Good job Rudy. Just a small cheap tip for you, get the cheap wheeled ATV/motorcycle jack from Harbor Freight -- They work great for pulling fuel tanks, and putting skid plates on. They also work great for pulling and installing VW beetle motors if you ever get a Baja or Buggie.
When pushing rubber or plastic hose on barbed connectors, put the end of hose in hot water for a few minutes
awesome job RUDY.!!!!!
Engine does run good. Great job.
Great job Rudy , that 360 sounds mean now 👍🏻👍🏻
Right on Rudy, more vids> you are very informative and take time to explain in detail .............. ALOHA
Great job Rudy and Janelle...
YAY!
Just alittle FYI, mr. gasket makes a throttle adapter so you can run your cable and the kick down linkage without modifications…it’s a bolt n go.
G,day Rudy from Sydney Australia.
Man... You really get into the precision of automotive engineering.
🌏🇭🇲
Great job all but when you put valvoline oil in the engine. I wouldn't use that oil in my lawnmower. See to many motors blown up all because of that oil. Best of luck in the challenge. Stay safe and keep up the great work.
Best of luck with Fitech I have 10, yes 10 failed units that Fitech would not warranty (all still under their warranty period) once the company was purchased. We now only purchase Holley (no pun intended) EFI systems. Before Fitech was sold they were wonderful units with proper support and we literally installed over 50 units. The 10 “doorstops” we have cost us 10’s of thousands of dollars in unreimbursed warranty work along purchasing the Holley units at our expense. Live & learn the hard way.
That sounded great!
So Wise , Thank You
you need to post more videos. keep your build in front of people. i noticed a bump in your votes after this video. i continue to vote every day. LETS GO!!!
When you said number one had to be at top dead center I was thinking yes but on the power stroke. 😊
Rooting for you guys even though I’m friends with Chapelle who’s helping on the Yota Landcruiser. Sorry Dave.
I’ve been on RCC since 2004. I’ve had five, my 79 for 16 yrs.
I’d have given myself more slack in the top heater hose. Or get polyurethane engine mounts.
9:40 looks like a "protector" part, sitting between the hard metal and a seal. Stopping the seal from getting damaged when pressure forces into the metal
Don't change a thing on that exhaust! It sounds AMAZING!
Keep up the good work Rudy, everyone watching GO VOTE DAMN IT.
It's good to grease the tap too.
Has anyone thought of magnetising the drill bit? Never done it just a thought
And if necessary once drilled it could b lowered in to magnetise the swarf dropped in?
i am routing for you you got my vote
Good luck with the fuel injection i had nothing but trouble with it ! Ended up using a holley
Thicker cables also on your rig, mate! 😋
Just yesterday I watched junkyard digs have the same problem with the distributor.
When you put it in I wondered if you had checked to see where TDC was.
Even though I can hear you, I guess you can't hear me when I'm watching. 😏😜
Nice work with everything else. 👍
Love your vids Rudy. Just a tip, never set your batteries on. Event floors. Kills them dead dead
These videos are cool you're doing a great job
amazing the effect of 180 out
Looks like a cool build
AWESOME!
Your getting there
Those valves in power steering pumps are flow control valves with relief valves built in. Basically when the engine spins faster or slower you want the flow to remain constant because the flow determines how fast the steering reacts so with a constant flow the rate of steering is predictable. When you hold the steering against its locks you don't want the pressure to spike so a relief valve is also needed.
Removing those shims adjusts the pressure relief valve that is triggered when you hold the steering wheel turned while the steering is locked. This will increase the pressure in the system and will make the steering more powerful. I don't think removing the shims is a bad way to go. 1000 psi is a bit low.
Another area that is important to address is the flow of the pump. This is important because instead of only needing to supply flow to the steering box, now the pump will also need to provide flow to the ram at the same time. To address the flow you can try to shim or stretch the spring that is behind the spool valve that you removed. It should be sitting in that valve bore when you remove the spool valve. Increasing this spring's force on the spool will increase the pressure difference across the orifice in the end of the fitting and that will increase flow. You can also try to slightly enlarge the orifice as you mentioned, but it wouldn't be my first choice either. Shimming the spring is best because it can easily be undone.
In a power steering pump the orifice is not adjustable ("needle valve" in the video), but this explains it pretty well. The part starting at about 3:30 is key:
czcams.com/video/elg3LBJ1PW4/video.html
This one is specific to power steering pumps, but is short on details:
czcams.com/video/xeWmNpZ5sD0/video.html
Even if you shim the flow control spring you can only get so much flow at idle because the positive displacement pump is spinning more slowly. This is what causes slow steering at low engine speed particularly with ram assist in some applications - YMMV. If you do have slow steering at idle engine speed you can change the pulley for a smaller one so the pump is spinning faster relative to the engine. However, at some point the low pressure side of the pump needs to be addressed. Restrictions in the low pressure side are primarily what create cavitation. Lots of the modified pumps that are for sale from PSC and the like have been modified to allow flow to increase on the low pressure side to prevent cavitation at high flow rates.
From my reading it seems the smart way to modify these pumps is to try to get fluid into the pump as easily as possible. You want a short run of large ID hose between the pump and the reservoir and you want the passages in the pump on the inlet side to be as large as possible. Then you can remove the shims from the relief valve (as you did) and shim or stretch the flow control spring. Then a smaller pulley can be used to spin the pump faster at low engine speed.
Hope fi tech does well for you. I had nothing but issues I still have it in a box…saving it for my 1971 gladiator may send it in to be fixed or diagnosed as idk what happened to it..
Crimps are better than soldering for connections that will see a lot of vibration. Solder can crack while crimps cannot. With that said it's unlikely if the wires are well supported. But in my RC stuff hobby the soldered joints are constantly giving me hassle. The crimped ones never. Go figure that solder doesn't like vibration!
Success!.
tip boiling water on the end of the hose it makes it easier to fit on the fitting....
Great work Rudy!! Congrats!! She turned over! Woohoo!
Where is your Supervisor, Mr Higgins? Lol
I voted! 🦗🦗🦗🦗
It's a good idea to keep all the good batteries 'topped off' in a shop like this. Trouble is...nobody thinks about that until you need one or four!
You should look into Sauter stixs not sure if that's the correct spelling! But they work great and save alot of time especially for the stuff you do.
❤ *Team* RAD 👍😎✊
Rudy, did you get your rocker arm shafts reinstalled in the correct orientation for proper rocker pivot and rocker to pushrod tip oiling? On LA small block Mopars the rocker shafts have notches on one end of each shaft, on the driver side the notch faces forward (toward the grill), on the passenger side the notch faces toward the rear (the firewall), and both shaft end notches also need to point inward toward the centerline of the engine (the crankshaft). Installing the shafts backwards won't allow the rockers to get enough lubrication to their saddles where they rock or to where they contact the pushrods. I thought I'd mention it because a lot of non-Mopar engine guys don't know about this and they burn up their rockers and/or have failures and their engine is done.
I installed them in the exact location I pulled them off in
Rudy! Replace the ignition module on the firewall and do away with the ceramic one or keep it and just replace it I would just replace them they are a prone problem if everything else works go to that ignition module by the brake booster #MoparLife 🤙 welcome to the club lol
Rudy, I was really expecting you to use the claw hammer. 🤘🤣🤘
Good job Rudy doody
Glad you got it running..
But, never store batteries on concrete. It'll suck the power right out of them..
Good luck
Put a little grease on the fitting, then slide the hose on.
What you do about that broken o-ring
Rudy run a few batts in PARALLEL !! IT STAYS AT 12 VOLTS BUT ADDS MASSIVE AMOUNT OF AMP HOUR JUICE !!!!!!! To good decent battery's fully charged put them in parallel this could really come in handy out on the trail !!! That's a promise 🤓.
Ur doing great !!!
Clock is ticking.
ATB to u for all the HARD WORK !!!! Got my fingers and my toes crossed😂😂
If I might, i suggest the purchase of a decent shop battery charger. I think Harbor Freight has several.
Would love too see an update on kaulins c-10!!!
Finally got things together to get it to run.
Be careful with the FiTech. If the distributor ground wire is not secure or the distributor plug is not in place, the unit may apply a constant 12V to all injectors and fill cylinders with gas and cause hydrolock (if the fuel pump is running). At least this is the case for the unit on a small block with HEI distributor. Ask me how I know.
Btw, don’t forget, the piston reaches “tdc” twice on a four-stoke. You said you had to pull the dist. and rotate 180, obviously you know it was at the exh. stroke and corrected the situation. A finger in the area near the spark plug bore will tell you when you’re on the right stroke…and it’s cheap, simple and easy! 👍 some food for thought…
Don't give up Rudy
While you have the backside of the fenders open, please tap that drivers dent out. I know you still need to cut the wheel opening but that is super easy to fix at this stage.
Next time, dont use jumper cables to the battery. It doesnt carry enough amps. Engine sounds great though!
It's a nice clamp for the fuel pump but you could have used a small exhaust clamp saddle to start with. Might have saved some time
Rudy is a great driver and mechanic! Holly is not so much, or present. Undeniable sweet.
next time try form taps they don't cut chips they form the threads I'm not sure but I do think they make them for a pipe thread
I’ll look into it
@@Rudysadventureanddesignreal the tap drill size will be different, I love the idea using grease to contain the chips👍
Might try some heavy gauge jumper cables,it does make a big difference