Remember, what we show here is what you need to go learn, not a tutorial. If you do not posses the skills to perform at this level, do NOT attempt. Support us on Patreon: / anvil Music:
hi Mark just had a quick question for you. For Enfields of the Number 4 pattern(ie the mark 1,mark 1/2, and mark 2) what type of paint did they use for the coating over the bluing. Ive got a 1949 dated number 4 mark 1 and a number 4 mark 1/2 and Ive been curious if A). was the paint anything specific and B). was repainting lee Enfields a common thing for the armorers to do when the rifles needed to be serviced and C). It that type of finishing work something I could do.
@@FailedRanger I do not know about the paint, what it's made of. Really, no knowledge but I'm open to learn. A. I think the paint was a cheap way to protect the gun , used to cut costs as the Empire fell apart. My belief is these rifles were not in service long enough to be re-arsenaled, B. so a repaint may not have happened. C. Most who paint (cerokote, etc) fail to account for the fabulous gunsmithing time commitment involved, and wind up drowning. Do the research and visit some painters prior to investing money and time.
Hey Mark, I just have a simple question. What did you guys use to affix the PVC pipe to the water pot? I think I heard it mentioned it was a toilet gasket or valve? I'm looking to rust blue my own Spanish Mauser 1916 after someone scrubbed the rifle clean of its markings and painted it and I hated the look of it.
I'm a beginning gunsmith and want to focus on the restoration and repair of older weapons. This episode exactly shows what I want to do. Thanks, much guys, very informative.
Wow nice job guy's i can remember my Dad redoing a lot of those of surplus guns back in the day when you got them out of drums at trade shows for $50 -$75 bucks he would work his job and on weekends go to a show buy a few of the different ones availible and for the next few weekends we spent time cleaning and repairing them then he would trade them or sale them and start over he always had a stack of hundred dollar bills in his wallet i do remember that those were the good old days miss that and my Dad but i do have the memories and a little knowledge on some of the repairs like you did today thanks for the video and for taking the time to allow us the next generation to see how your minds are working
I have to say that Bob is one helluva great guy to deal with. He was quick to answer my emails and give advice on what to use to restore an old H&R .32 revolver. I can't say enough nice things about the guy. And a huge thank you to Mark for having him on here, and giving a good demonstration to give me some confidence in learning a new process.
Absolutely amazing job. I know I don't need to tell you that haha but I absolutely love how you bring these old guns back to life. I very much enjoy watching you, Mark and friends, work. 🤘🤘
I've watched a good number of Mark's videos. I totally enjoy them and have learned a number of things. I'm not interested in going down the rabbit hole myself. I just enjoy all of the projects. Thank you Mark
Ironically enough, this video drops today. I was out earlier this morning shooting my 1908 vintage Spanish Mauser. The long rifle version. What a gem. I suspect someone did a very good refurb on it at some point; it looks ten years old, not 112. Shoots like a champ, but the tiny sights are tough on my weak eyes.
add on a sight base scope mount and shoot it with a mid range intermediate scope...kinda like the Jeff Cooper Scout rifle, no damage to the gun and helps old eyes see better LINK www.galatiinternational.com/1935-chilean-mauser-scout-mount-includes-rings-sk-scope-mounts.html
A real awesome video in so many ways. I wish I saw more of the glass repair but have seen another of your videos about that. Your rant was on target, I would add IMO that a mill surp in this condition is something easier to fall in love with than a NIB AR15. Loved hanging out with you guys!
I wish you had been on CZcams about 30 years ago. I have learned more in a few hours than I have in my 78 years - great therapeutic value for me - thanks Mark!
Thing is this is no longer a $150 rifle. Prices are reflecting the world shortages of everything, plus the reality that these rifles are going away. Tucked into safes or under beds or bubba'd to death or neglected to the point of no return. This channel has made me re-think my maintenance routines on my milsurps. Today, a $600 bill to restore may be justifiable (how much would you put into a 65 Chevelle?) but that $600 job is now about $1000. What's it mean to you? I'm steaming, carding and caring - it's why I got them in the first place. Time to do some bluing. Thanks Mark and Bob.
Love this video! This is something I have done to old tools as well. Rust bluing rates right up there with hand rubbed linseed oil finish for simple things that make such a difference.
Now what this rifle needs is a light coat of oil and a home in Arizona, Nevada, or Colorado some place with relatively low humidity and in another 100 years it will still look as good as it does today. Great job on the restoration guys and I applaud you for intentionally leaving the battle scars intact instead of trying to turn an old rifle into a new rifle, people that attempt those types of restorations destroy the history of a military rifle in my opinion.
So I'm on the hunt for a former Martini/Henry that became a Martini/Enfield .303, because I want one to hunt deer with. Why else, you ask, because I saw the movie Zulu a bunch of times and I want one. I will be refurbishing the rifle myself because I want to. I will do all the care and preservation myself and being retired and caught all the way up to 2019 with the dang Honey Do Lists I have plenty of time to do so. After 54 years of punching a time clock I find that I can finally enjoy doing things I love to do for myself. With your videos, along with my own life experiences, I plan on hunting deer next year with an oldie but goodie Martini/Enfield from the late 1800s. Keep up the outstanding videos for us who love guns and love to tinker with them.
This is great stuff! I have been collecting milsurps for about 20 years and taking the down to clean them for storage. You guys are helping me go to the next level. Thanks!
Cannot thank you guys enough for showing this. I have a number of old surplus and sporting arms with poor to nonexistent finishes and now I can do something about it. I had an old Chinese export C96 that just looked awful, and now it looks great. A fair amount of work and somewhat tedious, but the results are amazing.
This absolutely works, although I have not been able to find the foam filled pipes that Bob uses this side of the pond.. I use plastic soil pipes, but they do bend and have to be replaced when the stack falls over! Much better than tanks of water, which will bring the rust faeries into your workshop from miles around..
I should think the major cause of death of electricians is being stomped to death for turning up a fortnight late and saying “I can only do half a day today” !!
Very inspiring. As a plumber i do have one criticism. Cellular-core and common sch 40 pvc is the same thickness. Just wanted viewers to know because cellular-core pipe is usually only found at plumbing supply stores. It is cheaper but common pvc is fine to use.
Awesome info....just did a blue job on a shotgun barrel that looks like crap. It was the STEELWOOL. I didnt degrease it!...Thanks for turning that light on!
That’s crazy. I’ve watched this video a good 6 or 8 times now but never really paid attention to what kind of rifle it was. I just got a 1926 made model 1916 Spanish Mauser that I will eventually be doing this too, after a few other projects…
I've salvaged a couple rifles over the years that were being used as wallhangers. One was a really nice little Remington #4 rolling block in .22 LR. I got it really cheap because the action worked, but something was off. I took it apart, it turns out the spring had broken and someone had taken two other springs and mated them together into a functioning leaf spring. The gun worked, but had a trigger pull like that of the double action on a Nagant revolver. I took it apart, found the correct spring, got it working again, fixed where the takedown was a little sloppy because the hole in the wood was blown out a bit. Now my son shoots it regularly, we put only standard velocity through it, because that's what it used. I found a #6 Remington .22 LR, that was missing parts, got it going again, another fine little .22 LR to shoot. I'm working on getting my 1894 Winchester in .38-55 to function a little better. My latest is repairing a duffel cut on a numbers matching late war K98. I have a soft spot for these old guns that I can afford versus needing to take out a loan to buy a safe queen I am going to be afraid to shoot.
Thanks for the reupload Mark! Two mad scientists at work! Wunderbar! By chance will you be reuploading your Q&A video? Absolute pleasure to listen to your wisdom and taking the time to educate us viewers!
I had a Italian version of that...had been cut down an a Monte Carlo stock...most consistently accurate rifle loved it...i had to upgrade lol regret it...thanks for the video work u guys do a nice job on ur presentation
This is interesting. Saw this video after learning the hard way that boiling vinegar changes the process from rust corrosion to rust bluing. I don't restore guns, but I blue some steel things for fun on occasion, and now I'm curious if boiling salt and vinegar is a decent bluing method.
Awesome video guys. I'll definitely be grabbing some of that rust blue as I've been looking for an alternative to the selenium dioxide bluing chemicals that are so popular. Thanks!
Thanks for this information. Subbed. I'm curious what happens inside the bore during the steam process? Besides standard bore cleaning, are you doing anything special to clean the bore?
Thank you for that. Informative, good baseline info for laymen. Now to work up the nerve, I'm old & made lots of errors, so.... see you on the other side. Again, gracias. Peace.
QUESTIONS: After the first steam treatment, at 31:55 on the video, you said "… put our first coat of Rust Bluing solution on here." At 32:20 you said "… I'm going to wipe this on the steel, first coat, and this is going to dry for about an hour or so. Then we’ll wipe on a second coat and after that second coat we are going to introduce the treated barrel action into a humidity box." At 36:02 you said, "… Ok. back in the shop. We’ve coated our barrel with a priming coat of Rust Blue solution. We let that set for about an hour and let it dry. Then I recoated it with the first primary coat of Rust Blue solution." Regarding the first two coat prior to the humidity box, you did not say how long the second should dry. At 36:02, you seem to be reviewing what you had done so fare with the first two coats prior to the humidity box, the first priming coat which dried for an hour. You then said, "I recoated it with the first primary coat of Rust Blue solution. This implies subsequent primary coats after the two coats, the priming coat and the first primary coat. How many primary coats are there, and when are they applied?
There is no need to butcher military surplus arms as there are many fine guns out there that began as sporting rifles and really have seen little use. I have one of these Spanish short rifles but mine was converted to the NATO 7.62 or 308 Winchester. My experience with many surplus Bolt Actions is that they will have mismatched bolts creating headspacing issues and that the more modern chambering may create excessive pressures. I realize governments did this out of economy but a soldier or any shooter is not well served by such arms. Fortunately those arms I purchased were priced right. The old Turkish 88 commission rifles I got at Big 5 Sporting Goods back in the early 1980’s were $35.00 each.
That was a very interesting job I’d love to work on old military rifles just like that I wish there were more of them around and there are now thanks again for the great video.
Steam can carry 55x more heat energy than water. That is why steam is so good for heating, but steam heating is not at all tolerant of poor workmanship in the piping, radiators, boilers, valves, etc.
So you mentioned you hadn’t waxed that rust blues barreled action yet. Did you wax it? Is that the next step after kerosene? What wax and does it give a high gloss sheen to the blues barrel and receiver?
Absolutely loved this insight into what constituted an Arsenal refurbishment What a great history lesson! If you have an upper hand guard that is loose but otherwise undamaged, would you recommend acraglassing to avoid potential future damage (given that these pieces are thin and relatively fragile to begin with)? Thanks!
I did processes like this years ago for the industrial, pharmaceutical, aeronautical worlds. We used TSP Tri sodium phosphate with RO or DI water very cheap to degrease and or strip at just below a boil about 4% give or take, Much more safe, then "no more touchy" or oils near! and depending on what's next we used the hi PH to neutralize, cleans your driveway or laundry too, or MEK Methyl Ethyl Ketone (better than acetone harder to find) but a little more danger, cost and danger? than TSP. Thank guys now you got me thinking about my 1896 Mauser?
Mark, is it not important to protect the bore of the weapon while introducing all the heat and humidity? I'm guessing any rust or flaky/hairy rust produced in the bore can be cleaned with a bronze cleaning brush and cotton swabs dipped in kerosene, diesel or a good bore cleaner?
This was ReUploaded because the link on Bob's website was broken. Bob's site is rustblue.com in case you need that
hi Mark just had a quick question for you. For Enfields of the Number 4 pattern(ie the mark 1,mark 1/2, and mark 2) what type of paint did they use for the coating over the bluing. Ive got a 1949 dated number 4 mark 1 and a number 4 mark 1/2 and Ive been curious if A). was the paint anything specific and B). was repainting lee Enfields a common thing for the armorers to do when the rifles needed to be serviced and C). It that type of finishing work something I could do.
@@FailedRanger I do not know about the paint, what it's made of. Really, no knowledge but I'm open to learn. A. I think the paint was a cheap way to protect the gun , used to cut costs as the Empire fell apart. My belief is these rifles were not in service long enough to be re-arsenaled, B. so a repaint may not have happened. C. Most who paint (cerokote, etc) fail to account for the fabulous gunsmithing time commitment involved, and wind up drowning. Do the research and visit some painters prior to investing money and time.
@@marknovak8255 Guys.. the paint you want is SUNCORITE 259 don't know if you can source it your side of the Pond..!
Mark Novak thank you I’ll look into it and will keep you posted
Hey Mark, I just have a simple question. What did you guys use to affix the PVC pipe to the water pot? I think I heard it mentioned it was a toilet gasket or valve? I'm looking to rust blue my own Spanish Mauser 1916 after someone scrubbed the rifle clean of its markings and painted it and I hated the look of it.
I'm a beginning gunsmith and want to focus on the restoration and repair of older weapons. This episode exactly shows what I want to do. Thanks, much guys, very informative.
Same. Millennial gunsmith. His stuff is great
Same
Wow nice job guy's i can remember my Dad redoing a lot of those of surplus guns back in the day when you got them out of drums at trade shows for $50 -$75 bucks he would work his job and on weekends go to a show buy a few of the different ones availible and for the next few weekends we spent time cleaning and repairing them then he would trade them or sale them and start over he always had a stack of hundred dollar bills in his wallet i do remember that those were the good old days miss that and my Dad but i do have the memories and a little knowledge on some of the repairs like you did today thanks for the video and for taking the time to allow us the next generation to see how your minds are working
That must of been awesome to be apart of.
@@ikeizham -- It must have been before 1968!
Thank you for continuing to reupload these. Very valuable, informative, and entertaining.
A year in gunsmithing school, to get a certifacate. But i have learned alot if not more from you mark. It is much appreciated.
The school experience did allowed you to get much more out of me than if you were not exposed to their curriculum. Just sayin.....
@@marknovak8255 you are correct, i would not know half the stuff you are talking about. But i still apreciate the in depth videos. Your amazing.
I actually found Mark because SDI used one of his videos in a lesson. I love you guys, WE ARE THE CARBON BASED LIFEFORMS!
I have to say that Bob is one helluva great guy to deal with. He was quick to answer my emails and give advice on what to use to restore an old H&R .32 revolver. I can't say enough nice things about the guy. And a huge thank you to Mark for having him on here, and giving a good demonstration to give me some confidence in learning a new process.
I've been waiting for this to get reuploaded. Thanks Mark!
Absolutely amazing job. I know I don't need to tell you that haha but I absolutely love how you bring these old guns back to life. I very much enjoy watching you, Mark and friends, work. 🤘🤘
I've watched a good number of Mark's videos. I totally enjoy them and have learned a number of things. I'm not interested in going down the rabbit hole myself. I just enjoy all of the projects. Thank you Mark
Ironically enough, this video drops today.
I was out earlier this morning shooting my 1908 vintage Spanish Mauser. The long rifle version.
What a gem. I suspect someone did a very good refurb on it at some point; it looks ten years old, not 112. Shoots like a champ, but the tiny sights are tough on my weak eyes.
add on a sight base scope mount and shoot it with a mid range intermediate scope...kinda like the Jeff Cooper Scout rifle, no damage to the gun and helps old eyes see better
LINK
www.galatiinternational.com/1935-chilean-mauser-scout-mount-includes-rings-sk-scope-mounts.html
@@80spodcastchannel will second that.
@@80spodcastchannel you watch mark too? Hell yeah.
A real awesome video in so many ways. I wish I saw more of the glass repair but have seen another of your videos about that. Your rant was on target, I would add IMO that a mill surp in this condition is something easier to fall in love with than a NIB AR15. Loved hanging out with you guys!
I wish you had been on CZcams about 30 years ago. I have learned more in a few hours than I have in my 78 years - great therapeutic value for me - thanks Mark!
Well I'm just a young 66, but like you, I get great enjoyment from this channel. Nothing like watching the masters work.
Thank you Mark and your friend Bob for the great video of restoration.
We have not forgotten! The reboots are just as awesome!
Mark would make the coolest Bond villain ever
Thing is this is no longer a $150 rifle. Prices are reflecting the world shortages of everything, plus the reality that these rifles are going away. Tucked into safes or under beds or bubba'd to death or neglected to the point of no return. This channel has made me re-think my maintenance routines on my milsurps. Today, a $600 bill to restore may be justifiable (how much would you put into a 65 Chevelle?) but that $600 job is now about $1000. What's it mean to you? I'm steaming, carding and caring - it's why I got them in the first place. Time to do some bluing. Thanks Mark and Bob.
Ive never felt so immasculated as i did when i watched this monster determin an unknown chemical with his tongue
Love this video! This is something I have done to old tools as well. Rust bluing rates right up there with hand rubbed linseed oil finish for simple things that make such a difference.
Thank you for the repost and the instructional. Now off to finish 60 years of deferred maintenance.
"say hi, bob"
"hi, bob"
"outstanding!"
Nothing Better than a Mark Novak Video !! Thank you for sharing , watching is EASY !
Now what this rifle needs is a light coat of oil and a home in Arizona, Nevada, or Colorado some place with relatively low humidity and in another 100 years it will still look as good as it does today. Great job on the restoration guys and I applaud you for intentionally leaving the battle scars intact instead of trying to turn an old rifle into a new rifle, people that attempt those types of restorations destroy the history of a military rifle in my opinion.
I've seen it in print before, but I think Mark is the only person I've ever heard actually use the word "chancre" in spoken conversation.
So I'm on the hunt for a former Martini/Henry that became a Martini/Enfield .303, because I want one to hunt deer with. Why else, you ask, because I saw the movie Zulu a bunch of times and I want one. I will be refurbishing the rifle myself because I want to. I will do all the care and preservation myself and being retired and caught all the way up to 2019 with the dang Honey Do Lists I have plenty of time to do so. After 54 years of punching a time clock I find that I can finally enjoy doing things I love to do for myself. With your videos, along with my own life experiences, I plan on hunting deer next year with an oldie but goodie Martini/Enfield from the late 1800s. Keep up the outstanding videos for us who love guns and love to tinker with them.
Great video! Well worth the time to watch and learn. I look forward to taking the time to do this to the next war relic that I may find. Thank you!
Hmm here in Spain we blue rust with sosa and potasiun nitratre baths.
Great video! Great gun😎
This is great stuff! I have been collecting milsurps for about 20 years and taking the down to clean them for storage. You guys are helping me go to the next level. Thanks!
Mark, I can't tell you how many times I've watched and rewatched these videos but I've got to thank you brother! Seriously!
very informative guys , great video
Glad it was helpful!
Cannot thank you guys enough for showing this. I have a number of old surplus and sporting arms with poor to nonexistent finishes and now I can do something about it. I had an old Chinese export C96 that just looked awful, and now it looks great. A fair amount of work and somewhat tedious, but the results are amazing.
An absolutely wonderful job by two talented craftsmen!
This absolutely works, although I have not been able to find the foam filled pipes that Bob uses this side of the pond.. I use plastic soil pipes, but they do bend and have to be replaced when the stack falls over! Much better than tanks of water, which will bring the rust faeries into your workshop from miles around..
Glad this one finally got put back up. Great info. I need to make one of those steam chambers.
Half science, half art, half experience
Yogi Berra ligic !🤣
@@fmolds yeah, but only 10% of that
50% of the time, it works every time.
I learned so much. Many thanks to the both of you.
Glorious satisfaction as always. Thanks for the re-upload Mark
Thank you Mark watching this video have me the confidence and knowledge to refinish an old arisaka that the finish was almost completely worn off of
Thank you for the your time and experience.
Thanks for the ReUpload. Best video on blueing. Super easy and Bob's formula is awesome!
how did i not know about this channel? The quality and information is amazing.
wow, chocked full of info!!! great restoration, I am jealous of the owner of that gun!
Good stuff!
Excellent work Mark 👍🏽
Thanks for reloading. I’ve missed not being able to refer back to this one.
I should think the major cause of death of electricians is being stomped to death for turning up a fortnight late and saying “I can only do half a day today” !!
True
Beautiful rifle and beautiful refinish job
Out-freaking-standing!
Thank you for passing down your knowledge now a days it's a very appreciated
AMEN!
Thank you for recording this information so its not easily lost.
Very cool. I have only seen people using very expensive equipment to do rust blueing. Thank you for sharing.
Very inspiring. As a plumber i do have one criticism. Cellular-core and common sch 40 pvc is the same thickness. Just wanted viewers to know because cellular-core pipe is usually only found at plumbing supply stores. It is cheaper but common pvc is fine to use.
I find it bends...!
Now you have me thinking about rebluing the Mosin I restored...
Awesome info....just did a blue job on a shotgun barrel that looks like crap. It was the STEELWOOL. I didnt degrease it!...Thanks for turning that light on!
Thanks for re-posting , I had the video saved for reference , but it went to private.
Beautiful work.
Thank you for the great information.
This is probably my favorite of your tutorials. And yes it is. And it is a good one.
That’s crazy. I’ve watched this video a good 6 or 8 times now but never really paid attention to what kind of rifle it was. I just got a 1926 made model 1916 Spanish Mauser that I will eventually be doing this too, after a few other projects…
I've salvaged a couple rifles over the years that were being used as wallhangers. One was a really nice little Remington #4 rolling block in .22 LR. I got it really cheap because the action worked, but something was off. I took it apart, it turns out the spring had broken and someone had taken two other springs and mated them together into a functioning leaf spring. The gun worked, but had a trigger pull like that of the double action on a Nagant revolver. I took it apart, found the correct spring, got it working again, fixed where the takedown was a little sloppy because the hole in the wood was blown out a bit. Now my son shoots it regularly, we put only standard velocity through it, because that's what it used. I found a #6 Remington .22 LR, that was missing parts, got it going again, another fine little .22 LR to shoot. I'm working on getting my 1894 Winchester in .38-55 to function a little better. My latest is repairing a duffel cut on a numbers matching late war K98. I have a soft spot for these old guns that I can afford versus needing to take out a loan to buy a safe queen I am going to be afraid to shoot.
This is great! I got an 1893 carbine last year and this is almost step by step for me...
Thanks for the reupload Mark! Two mad scientists at work! Wunderbar! By chance will you be reuploading your Q&A video? Absolute pleasure to listen to your wisdom and taking the time to educate us viewers!
I would spend the money to keep a piece of history beautiful and in great shape.
Say hi Bob. Hi Bob.
i almost lost an eye wftching that wire flopping while wheeeling
I had a Italian version of that...had been cut down an a Monte Carlo stock...most consistently accurate rifle loved it...i had to upgrade lol regret it...thanks for the video work u guys do a nice job on ur presentation
The repost YESSSSSSS. Thank you Mark!
Been looking for this, thanks for uploading it again!
Just took a look at my Mossberg Model 43 .22lr and its action has fine Missouri rust growing on it. This is timely.
This is interesting. Saw this video after learning the hard way that boiling vinegar changes the process from rust corrosion to rust bluing. I don't restore guns, but I blue some steel things for fun on occasion, and now I'm curious if boiling salt and vinegar is a decent bluing method.
Sweet extended repost! I'm actually getting ready to do this process this weekend - was debating on steam pipe vs boil.
outstanding you laid out a complete system for me/us to use... Thank you!
Awesome video guys. I'll definitely be grabbing some of that rust blue as I've been looking for an alternative to the selenium dioxide bluing chemicals that are so popular. Thanks!
Make the trip over to the dark side, you will not regret it
Awesome tip about steel wool 👍🏼 blue collar 100% here
What is the “wax” used after the bluing process?
Mark(whispering in Bob's ear): "it's almost as if I anticipated your needs..."
Thanks for this information. Subbed. I'm curious what happens inside the bore during the steam process? Besides standard bore cleaning, are you doing anything special to clean the bore?
I had a hell of a time getting a bottle of Bob's British blue shipped up to Canada but it was well worth the trouble.
Another outstanding video. Thanks.
I really enjoyed this video. Thanks for sharing.
44:46 The taste test gives you answers to all questions
What's the difference between an oral and rectal thermometer? THE TASTE! :p I could not resist.
Interesting process. Thanks for sharing!
For restorations, be sure to use steel wool around sharp edges as carding wheels and wire wheels can round sharp edges.
Thank you for that. Informative, good baseline info for laymen. Now to work up the nerve, I'm old & made lots of errors, so.... see you on the other side. Again, gracias. Peace.
Anticipated his need and eliminated using the polished hammer handle for a drift.
QUESTIONS:
After the first steam treatment, at 31:55 on the video, you said "… put our first coat of Rust Bluing solution on here." At 32:20 you said "… I'm going to wipe this on the steel, first coat, and this is going to dry for about an hour or so. Then we’ll wipe on a second coat and after that second coat we are going to introduce the treated barrel action into a humidity box." At 36:02 you said, "… Ok. back in the shop. We’ve coated our barrel with a priming coat of Rust Blue solution. We let that set for about an hour and let it dry. Then I recoated it with the first primary coat of Rust Blue solution."
Regarding the first two coat prior to the humidity box, you did not say how long the second should dry. At 36:02, you seem to be reviewing what you had done so fare with the first two coats prior to the humidity box, the first priming coat which dried for an hour. You then said, "I recoated it with the first primary coat of Rust Blue solution. This implies subsequent primary coats after the two coats, the priming coat and the first primary coat. How many primary coats are there, and when are they applied?
There is no need to butcher military surplus arms as there are many fine guns out there that began as sporting rifles and really have seen little use. I have one of these Spanish short rifles but mine was converted to the NATO 7.62 or 308 Winchester. My experience with many surplus Bolt Actions is that they will have mismatched bolts creating headspacing issues and that the more modern chambering may create excessive pressures. I realize governments did this out of economy but a soldier or any shooter is not well served by such arms. Fortunately those arms I purchased were priced right. The old Turkish 88 commission rifles I got at Big 5 Sporting Goods back in the early 1980’s were $35.00 each.
Beautiful job. Looks good
Mark tasted kerosene like it was homemade ranch, also where is your right eyebrow. Jokes aside. Thank you for the solid content as always, sir.
The high speed low drag comments got me good
That was a very interesting job I’d love to work on old military rifles just like that I wish there were more of them around and there are now thanks again for the great video.
Steam can carry 55x more heat energy than water. That is why steam is so good for heating, but steam heating is not at all tolerant of poor workmanship in the piping, radiators, boilers, valves, etc.
This has been outstanding to watch.....Thanks guy's...! PS l really liked you buffing wheel it not to fast....Just right...!
So you mentioned you hadn’t waxed that rust blues barreled action yet. Did you wax it? Is that the next step after kerosene? What wax and does it give a high gloss sheen to the blues barrel and receiver?
Great job, guys.
Absolutely loved this insight into what constituted an Arsenal refurbishment What a great history lesson!
If you have an upper hand guard that is loose but otherwise undamaged, would you recommend acraglassing to avoid potential future damage (given that these pieces are thin and relatively fragile to begin with)?
Thanks!
I did processes like this years ago for the industrial, pharmaceutical, aeronautical worlds.
We used TSP Tri sodium phosphate with RO or DI water very cheap to degrease and or strip at just below a boil about 4% give or take, Much more safe, then "no more touchy" or oils near! and depending on what's next we used the hi PH to neutralize, cleans your driveway or laundry too, or MEK Methyl Ethyl Ketone (better than acetone harder to find) but a little more danger, cost and danger? than TSP.
Thank guys now you got me thinking about my 1896 Mauser?
Great Video. Great job. Now I gotta go shop me up an old Mauser
Mark, is it not important to protect the bore of the weapon while introducing all the heat and humidity? I'm guessing any rust or flaky/hairy rust produced in the bore can be cleaned with a bronze cleaning brush and cotton swabs dipped in kerosene, diesel or a good bore cleaner?
My only question is what does this do to the bore or do you oil the bore?
Awesome!