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The Savage 755A makes me think of a Sherman tank. Even though its engraved. This thing is more refined.

12:50 - Why not use a spray can of Dykem? Much faster, and time is money. 16:24 - I thought I learned from Novak that when you do stuff like this, you quench it, and then draw it in perhaps a 700F solder bath? What am I missing here? I've no doubt that Novak is correct, however, I remain, confounded. ...

11:25 - why a "bigger beater" ?? Because it changes the shape of the force impulse; it lowers the peak force and broadens out the impulse, enabling the delivery of more energy (which is the AREA under the force vs. time curve if you measured it) with less peak force. As a mechanical engineer, I have all manner of instruments to both apply/measure calibrated impacts and record them. I actually have a half dozen or so "calibrated hammers" with LOAD CELLS afront. Deal with it! :D

Yes Numeric books our gunsmiths Bible..kinda..haha

Yep if it ain't broken,me I just clean it..

You can't afford to pay a pro, but if its your gun , its value is worth you doing it! Experience, and practice has its own reward. And you eventually will get good and preserve for a long time another good gun.

I have that browning double great gun but unless you are great with taking guns apart. Dont its like a clock. Miner my friend said it took 3 days to figure how to take it apart

You know why it's called WD40? Because WD 39 didn't work.

Seems like a reasonable choice if you have a machine shop. Not the direction I'd have gone but that's just me. I would have tried some other things first, like spinning a brass brush in to clear the obstruction and most rust and then shooting it to see what kind of accuracy I could get. I don't think it would "blow up" if you go one shot at a time and check the bore after each shot. If a brass brush couldn't make it accurate I'd try steel and test fire again. Drilling would be my last option. If you have these kinds of tools it's probably impossible to resist using them even if you shouldn't. Reminds me of the Rodney Dangerfield joke that his mother found some free cough drops and that night she made him sleep outside so he'd get sick.

Close the action

Hi Mark, I notice that the ignition on your rifle was VERY slow.... Looking at an original Ferguson, the vent seems to be drilled at quite an angle. Looks like it would miss the breech screw altogether, unlike the repro. It's rather surprising that a maker as thorough as Durs Egg would have not seen fit to mount the lock a 1/4" or more further forward; although perhaps the vent would be overly long then due to the large amount of metal in he barrel at that point. Short vents are the secret to fast ignition, as Manton found out very early in the piece, so we may have a "rock and hard place" dilemma here. I think I could design a lock that would avoid this issue and put the pan and vent more towards the front of the powder chamber, so it's a bit of a puzzle why the Fergy was made this way. I have toyed with the idea of making one of these rifles, but it would be a LOT of work... 🙂

One of the ugliest guns ever made....

Whats that orange on your left thumbnail from?

Wish you showed more of adjusting the timing

I agee. I always have wd40, its the best cleaner, shiner, glue remover there is. Thats its best use.

7::14 - NO! CLAMP! NEVER! A! CLAMP! Use a wrap of surgical tubing! You will NEVER MAR THE STOCK with that technique. I know of what I speak, dudes!

3:27 - did you WAX the 1x2? Whoa! That could be a problem to get it all apart. There is a slightly different approach to this problem. You need to make sure that your Acra Glass is tinted close to the color of the wood. With the stock held in a nominally normal position, you make some 3/32" thru holes along the crack, about an inch or so apart. You back bore them with a 1/8" or 5/32" bit from the outside. You fill the crack as Novak has shown, but you then use a hypodermic type injector (Brownells?) to blow more Acra Glass into the holes you drilled, after the stock is fixed and wrapped with surgical tubing. You get good "squeeze out" (Novak's term?) using this method. The adhesive injection just fills up all the voids. Wait about 30 minutes and scrape off the gross parts of the Acra Glass on the outside, but leave it proud so you can sand it flush. Don't worry about the inside. That's easy to fix later. I have repaired many stocks in this manner. It works. Oh? It works great!

2:44 - Sorry, Mark. Chemistry does not work that way. It matters not if you warm the components before or after you mix them, they will still set at around the same time. Warming before certainly does make it easier to mix, yathink?

Sorry, Mr. Novak, but those two rifles were ALWAYS competitors. Read your history, sir!

Love the engraving on this thing, not really overdone which some guns are for my taste....

the guy shooting the gun at 35 minute mark holds his elbow annoyingly high. Not good!

Always a pleasure Mark!! Keep em smokin 😂

Bravo

Did you at least put any lube in that thing after filming? Lol

Likewise, always a pleasure.

I can say first hand that I have had several things come from Anniston not exactly right. some minor things, but what I consider major are: several op rods really out of wack, a bolt so packed with debris that the firing pin would not move and a bolt that did not close on GO gage. I have either been able to correct the issue myself or they gladly took it back and made the correction, so they still are the place to go to, but I wouldn't take any rifle directly to the range without a good inspection, cleaning and lub..

I have one with aluminum receiver in my shop now for sale. I have never seen one before, pretty cool gun. Safety is a little odd but functional. Thanks Anvil!

Too much bla bla bla

31:20 - I would not use ANY heat on that joint, as it makes the Acraglass shrink more. Room temperature. A day or more. Always. What does Novak know that I don't? .... Why does Novak not use the available color additives for AcraGlass to attempt to match the color of the wood he is repairing??? This ain't rocket science. It is easy to get close, and dudes? I'm an amateur, and usually get it awfully close.

The casual way that Mark uses "We" while describing work he's done by himself to include everyone who's watching and learning is a subtle sign of how good of a teacher he is. It must be awesome to apprentice with him.

Your thoughts regarding sonic cleaners?

❤. O k. YES. ❤

Shopping List for Mark: paring chisel, Japanese saw...

I am impressed and have never seen nor heard of this firearm, until today, 22 July 2024.

Every time Mark talks about an unobtanium pin or screw made in the 1800s, it sounds odd to me If they could make it in 1860, surely our machines and gizmos and technology of today could make it no? Just take a bit of measuring and inspection.

I have one of these but not with the aluminum receiver. Mine is steel. I love this gun. It isn't hard on the shoulder at all. It does feel different when you shoot it that's for sure.

I’ve used WD40 for rust removal as you demonstrated. 45 yrs ago I found it to be useless as any kind of rust prevention. WD40 is a great solvent for flushing out complex, difficult to access mechanisms.. Sticky auto door locks & rusty door hinges benefit from a generous WD40 flush. Following it by the application of a suitable lubricant works wonders. I also use it for a sharpening lubricant with fine stones & diamond laps I find it a great aftershave cologne however it’s not as seductive as WW2 bore cleaner.

Works great on the outside to prevent rust. Don't use it inside. It dries up and turns into a shellac. And gums up everything.

It is always good to see grandpa M-16 be brought back to life. (that's humor folks)

Mark do you have a video on the build for your jig that holds the bolt?

I would love to get an FN49. Never seen one though.

Stephen Hunter said, "recalcitrant due to detritus".

HOLY FUCK

2:15 - What the What? That was certainly NOT CLEAR? Sorry dude, but you lost us.

I have always used WD40 on my firearms, no rust or gum up problems whatsoever…….

Mark .. I own a few Remington 11-48 in12 ga, 16ga, & 28 gauge Shotguns now I am very attached to the 28 ga. Gun just because she fits like the double auto. And a harder hitting shotgun for its sise. Imp cyll and one in mod. Wd40 has one use for my guns to help leach out water from the steel

I have made my own replacement grips, but am always afraid to repair a chipped corner. I appreciate the techniques you share.

Great tip. Thanks. I rescued a horribly rusted North America Arms Model 10 Grizzly using WD40 and copper wool on the barrel. It required soaking for two weeks in ATF and Acetone to free the action. The end result was truly miraculous.

My uncle John would say WD40 was good for killing ants and starting fires, or “it works for the guy selling it” My own experience is that it’s worse than doing nothing. Especially for pre-oiled steel roller chain. It literally washes the lubricants off the chain. Couldn’t you use mineral spirits and get the same result?

Was about to comment why not use a washer to extend it out but u said u were going to do that