T140 16 amp Alternator Installation
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- čas přidán 16. 12. 2023
- Don't forget to click 'Like' to any new videos you watch. Cheers folks. @DaveWhellersVintage
My old 10amp Alternator was getting a bit old and the insulation was starting to crack.
So I bought a nice new Lucas 16amp Single Phase two wire one, to both replace the old one plus increase the generating capacity as I had recently converted to a Halogen Headlight. That headlight pulled over 6.2 amps on main beam. The old alternator was not keeping up with that and was just managing dip beam, so it had to go.
It was only 46 years old but was still working fine otherwise lol. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Great video, so helpful, doing a restoration on my 76 T140v and it’s my first. So everyday is a school day.
I found it possible to loosen the foot peg nut to allow for the foot peg to droop down. Essentially you're loosening it to the point where the locating Peg can be pulled away from the frame. Makes it a lot easier to put it back together
Some great tips and tricks. I just picked up a 78 T140 in a trade. Electric systems is working great. I'm rebuilding the rear brake caliper tomorrow then hopefully taking it out for a proper shake down ride.
Glad to help
@@DaveWhellersVintage here's a random question for you. I picked up a 78 T140 in a trade, it's my first OIF Triumph and I'm not sure how much to crank down on the bolt that holds the tank on. Can I damage the tank if I go too tight on that bolt? And do you have any tips for putting the tank back on... it's a little tricky lining up that screw with the hole. : )
@@daveco1270 The bolt that fits down into the tank should be a gentle tight just enough to stop the tank moving. Before you fit the tank ensure the frame pads are in good order. There is also a strap the runs underneath the tank at the front. If the cross strap is not fitted the tank may split. I strongly recommend you join the FB group 'T140 OIF Classics' You must answer all the questions on the application to be admitted as its a private group for the T140 only. That is a better forum to help you with your bike rather than this one. There are also free manuals for your bike also to down load in the files section on there. I am a moderator on that group and look forward to seeing you soon.
Hello brand spanking new subscriber here.(Paul). I know you said you use the permatex aviation form a gasket throughout the bike but do you also seal the cases with it? If not what do you recommend? Thanks.
Hi Yes I use it on the cases as is shown on the engine rebuild video. You must follow the instructions and let it dry off until its gone tacky first though or it wont dry properly when the two halves come together.
The secret of getting an oil tight seal is not the gasket seal really, its the flatness of the two mating surfaces. Any bruises on a mating surfaces will keep the parts from coming together and no amount of seal will fix that long term. That's why guys often have a dry bike after assembly but after a few thousand miles its starts dripping. . Some of the old timers I worked with never used any gasket seal at all on the crankcase joints and they got the surfaces perfect. I recommend spending time using engineers blue with the two halves with no engine parts fitted. Put a thin smear of engineers blue around one side. Then put them together and just lean on the top case. Carefully pull it apart again and look for a nice blue line all around the opposite case to the one you put the blue on. At the points there is no blue examine and flatten off carefully with a fine tooth file and pull the file carefully sideways a couple of times along the bruised area. Then using same file with a bit of 800 grit emery, polish the draw file marks out. Repeat.
Ive done that on all my bikes and none drip.
The gearbox seal is another story though and only a smear of silicone gasket seal on the splines behind the rubber seal before you put the sprocket on will fix that. Hope this helps. Ride safe.
@@DaveWhellersVintage yes it does thank you for your time.
Hi i like your vids v helpfull...if the stator is a bit tite against the roter on the triumph...is it ok to file the holes out a bit on the stator where it is tite...do you recommend this...thanks ..john
Good god no don't do that. Simply adjust the mounting pegs as I advised. Use gentle tapping with a soft mallet on the pegs, or use a long bit of pipe over the offending mounting peg. Remember you are only moving them a few thousands of an inch. Its not too hard to do, just needs a bit of patience.
I just subscribed! You're a bit of a genius and I appreciate your demeanor when you work..glad I found you. I've got 1971 t120r 5 speed and 2 1970 t100s(bobbers). I'm no spring chicken either😂.
@@pauliebots Welcome to my channel and I'm here to help anytime.
Do the rotors deteriorate over time too?
Yes they are just a magnet like any other, but personally I have never needed to replace a rotor in my 50 odd years on these bikes. Usually replacement was only necessary because they came loose and came off the end of the crankshaft and got damaged.. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tutorial Dave. What’s the story on your electric start? Did you fit a factory ES set up or is it a
aftermarket? I know Shropshiere has their own set up that I believe is fitted on the primary side. Yours appears to be on the timing side like the factory set up.
Good day!
@@mickgerard6696 Hi mate, My electric start initially was a Williams version that fitted on the timing side, but I have re engineered it a bit more so it works better. The Williams Version of the Starter is different to the ES versions as the Intermediate shaft is stationary with the Sprag assembly rotating around it which I really liked. I have modified that a bit more to improve it and to date its working perfectly and with absolutely no issues regarding kick back or sprag damage, so I think I have got it sorted now. There was nothing wrong with the original ES Design version that terrified everyone that a bit of modern engineering could not fix lol. I am going to do a full vide on my special electric start that I have on my bike, once I am happy my modifications are working as they should. I have done over 2000 miles on it now and cannot find any wear or damages in the full timing side assembly with the electric start kit in place. So its looking very very good mate, but once I have 5000 miles on the clock I will feel confident to publish my findings in full. My version can be easily made with some simple tools and at very low cost. The ES versions can also be easily converted to my version at low cost making them much stronger and more reliable. I wanted to put to bed all the silly myths about the Meriden electric start, and haver ticked off every weak point it had successfully with little trouble to be honest. There nowt like a bit of re engineering lol.
Fantastic Dave! I’ll look forward to the video and more info once you reach that 5k mark..
@@mickgerard6696 I just took it all apart at 3000 miles for a full inspection as my curiosity was becoming immense lol. I can advise I found zero wear or damage to any of the starter mechanism including the Spragg. There were some grip marks on the sprag clutch bite drive shaft, but that was expected as its steel on steel, and the marks are very slight. So I can report ....So far so good.😊