I love those 1967 TR6s. That looks like original mist green and alaskan white. One of my favorite color combos...only done on the 67 TR6. (I feel like I say that about a lot of Triumph's colors, but they have some great color combos.) That's a cool patina bike.
Should be interesting to see what you find tho I would increase the revs just to see if it becomes closer to Advance mark 😊 Would be a good idea just to check the main frame earth anyway, clean it up and Gel it. Can you show the adjustments made the other side whilst doing the video 😊😊 Good luck and look forward to seeing the solution Phil
I can't see how the positive earth (ground) wire disconnecting from the coil would harm the Boyer control unit. If it were a negative earth system, that is how you would switch it off with the key. I have had two failures of Boyer units over the years, the first over 30 years ago when I fitted a mk 3 system to my T140V and the box failed after a couple of months. They replaced it straight away and it's been good ever since. The second was two years ago when the micro digital system I had just fitted to my Suzuki GS550 would run sometimes, but be completely dead at others. Again, they replaced it straight away without argument (they have a very helpful technician on site at their headquarters, which is less than half an hour from me), and I have had no problems since. One thing I did notice in the video was that you didn't seem to be revving the engine high enough to reach full advance (Boyer say 5000 rpm, but I've found it stops advancing around 4000).
I've had great luck with Boyers also. Mine has been in my bike since about 1975 or so. Ground is a reference. Just as all roads lead to Rome, all volts lead to ground. Sometimes if the ground is lost the volts look around for another road to travel and sometime that road is thru delicate circuitry. I really don't think we damaged the Boyer as they are very well made but that is where we will start today. Somewhere, somewhere we did something really stupid yesterday and now we are paying the price. Stand by for updates.
@@fjdelmonteThe point I was making about the ground wire is that those units are designed to work with both positive and negative ground systems, so the ground wire on one is the supply wire on the other. As the normal way of switching off is by disconnecting the supply with the key switch, this has the same effect as disconnecting the wire from the coil, so that should not harm the unit.
Isn’t that 38° advance meant to be set at about 4500rpm? ie, it moves as the revs rise. Also I would set TDC on the dial card with the tdc bolt in the flywheel hole behind the cylinders to be sure that tdc mark is correct then set 38° away from that. Was your strobe powered from a separate battery?
Hi, Yeah, we set the timing marks in reference with TDC and the timing light was on a separate battery. The interesting thing about the current problem is that the bike fired right up when we first kicked it and the timing mark was only a few degrees off perfect. The problems only started when we messed up and knocked the timing waaaaay off. Then the ground wire came off, and now we're chasing our tails trying to figger where we went so wrong. Standby, we will be working again today.
Congratulations Kevin!
I love those 1967 TR6s. That looks like original mist green and alaskan white. One of my favorite color combos...only done on the 67 TR6. (I feel like I say that about a lot of Triumph's colors, but they have some great color combos.) That's a cool patina bike.
I agree. I'd leave it just as is and take it to every biker bar in town. It'll be a cool one!
Keeps the brain engaged. Like your videos.
I am having the same problem. I am looking forward to seeing the solution.
Beautiful bike.
way to go Kev!!!!
Mustn't foget that float level on those monoblocks and concentrics is critical for smooth idle.
built and rode plenty of 67s great bike
Should be interesting to see what you find tho I would increase the revs just to see if it becomes closer to Advance mark 😊
Would be a good idea just to check the main frame earth anyway, clean it up and Gel it. Can you show the adjustments made the other side whilst doing the video 😊😊
Good luck and look forward to seeing the solution
Phil
Full advance must be checked at 2,500 rpm plus!!
I can't see how the positive earth (ground) wire disconnecting from the coil would harm the Boyer control unit. If it were a negative earth system, that is how you would switch it off with the key.
I have had two failures of Boyer units over the years, the first over 30 years ago when I fitted a mk 3 system to my T140V and the box failed after a couple of months. They replaced it straight away and it's been good ever since. The second was two years ago when the micro digital system I had just fitted to my Suzuki GS550 would run sometimes, but be completely dead at others. Again, they replaced it straight away without argument (they have a very helpful technician on site at their headquarters, which is less than half an hour from me), and I have had no problems since.
One thing I did notice in the video was that you didn't seem to be revving the engine high enough to reach full advance (Boyer say 5000 rpm, but I've found it stops advancing around 4000).
I've had great luck with Boyers also. Mine has been in my bike since about 1975 or so. Ground is a reference. Just as all roads lead to Rome, all volts lead to ground. Sometimes if the ground is lost the volts look around for another road to travel and sometime that road is thru delicate circuitry. I really don't think we damaged the Boyer as they are very well made but that is where we will start today. Somewhere, somewhere we did something really stupid yesterday and now we are paying the price. Stand by for updates.
@@fjdelmonteThe point I was making about the ground wire is that those units are designed to work with both positive and negative ground systems, so the ground wire on one is the supply wire on the other. As the normal way of switching off is by disconnecting the supply with the key switch, this has the same effect as disconnecting the wire from the coil, so that should not harm the unit.
on low revs the strobe should be in between tdc and fully advance
Yup.
Isn’t that 38° advance meant to be set at about 4500rpm?
ie, it moves as the revs rise. Also I would set TDC on the dial card with the tdc bolt in the flywheel hole behind the cylinders to be sure that tdc mark is correct then set 38° away from that.
Was your strobe powered from a separate battery?
Hi, Yeah, we set the timing marks in reference with TDC and the timing light was on a separate battery. The interesting thing about the current problem is that the bike fired right up when we first kicked it and the timing mark was only a few degrees off perfect. The problems only started when we messed up and knocked the timing waaaaay off. Then the ground wire came off, and now we're chasing our tails trying to figger where we went so wrong. Standby, we will be working again today.