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Hi Yes I use it on the cases as is shown on the engine rebuild video. You must follow the instructions and let it dry off until its gone tacky first though or it wont dry properly when the two halves come together. The secret of getting an oil tight seal is not the gasket seal really, its the flatness of the two mating surfaces. Any bruises on a mating surfaces will keep the parts from coming together and no amount of seal will fix that long term. That's why guys often have a dry bike after assembly but after a few thousand miles its starts dripping. . Some of the old timers I worked with never used any gasket seal at all on the crankcase joints and they got the surfaces perfect. I recommend spending time using engineers blue with the two halves with no engine parts fitted. Put a thin smear of engineers blue around one side. Then put them together and just lean on the top case. Carefully pull it apart again and look for a nice blue line all around the opposite case to the one you put the blue on. At the points there is no blue examine and flatten off carefully with a fine tooth file and pull the file carefully sideways a couple of times along the bruised area. Then using same file with a bit of 800 grit emery, polish the draw file marks out. Repeat. Ive done that on all my bikes and none drip. The gearbox seal is another story though and only a smear of silicone gasket seal on the splines behind the rubber seal before you put the sprocket on will fix that. Hope this helps. Ride safe.

@@DaveWhellersVintage yes it does thank you for your time.

Yes I will happily look at selling them after the final trials are complete but trust you understand I will need to make batches of at least 50 to keep the costs down. The bigger the batch size the cheaper the machinist cost drops down too obviously. At that batch size they should be around $400 to $500 NZ (about 200 to 250 quid) each and that includes shaft and my new clutch assembly. All you would need to do is remove your existing shaft and sprag housing and replace it with the new one. You would need to fit the Pazon E Altair Ignition. You can buy the Pazon Altair now and that would help you immediately with your exiting set up of course. With your order just include my name on the order so they will know you want my special program version with coil delay. There are two different size shafts needed and I will need to know if you have the pressed in bronze bush in the crankcase type, or just the plain crankcase like mine. I am confident all the other issues have been addressed and believe what I now have to be a reliable economical electric start, that should be pretty maintenance free. I will let you know how the test went in Part Five of my Electric Start Videos I think it should be ready in around four months. I need to put some serious milage on my prototype obviously before im willing to say its all good.

That's the plan!

I put a lot of time and burnt a lot of midnight oil designing and getting one made that can stand up to the immense pressures in the gear train. From all the pre-testing ive done on it off the bike its looking very promising, so its now down to road testing.

When you order the Pazon you need to ask for the special E version Altair, if necessary mention my name to Andy. Kick start works fine as it ignores the first or second pulse which is enough to avoid kick back obviously. I always put mine to TDC now before kicking and its fine electric or kick start. On the Tridents and TSX ES Bonnies and one 850 Commando I once worked on years ago, I just used to put a simple coil delay timer on for 1 about second that had a switch to turn it on and off so you could select electric or kick. That worked fine but sadly vibration used to destroy the relays so needed to change them every six months. It worked fine but for that. No more wrecked starter motors or bendixes on those lol. Hope this or these ideas are of use. Ride safe.

Agree its not that hard really. I have designed a new stronger sprag as well that's in part 4 and will put that up on here soon.

You can buy most of the components from Harris and LP Williams. The sprag that rotates around the intermediate shaft is only available from LP Williams or make your own like I did lol. The special Pazon Altair with the coil delay program is also available to you now that want that. Just include in the order that you want the coil delay Altair E and mention my name so they know to make one for you.

Thank you I spent two years working on this and the parts are fairly easy to find off the shelf. I have redesigned the sprag and upgraded the lubrication to the intermediate gear also. That's in part 4. My knees are kaput so it was a case of pull my finger out and make something that works and still looks good on the bike or stop riding. This is the result.

You can buy most of the components from Harris and LP Williams. The sprag that rotates around the intermediate shaft is only available from LP Williams or make your own like I did lol. The special Pazon Altair with the coil delay program is also available to you now that want that. Just include in the order that you want the coil delay Altair E and mention my name so they know to make one for you.

Yes they work much better than most guys and gals imagine. Its important to release the screen clamps after the first week and reset them I found. Avoids over stressing the Plexiglass. I re check mine every 6 months after that. Mines been on over 8 years now with no problem and its much nicer to ride with it on. Good luck with yours.

Possibly but as there no longer available generally its a bit pointless for me to make a UTUBE advice or upgrade video about that one. Using the larger chain as I have is no hassle, and the modification work is very easy to do and takes no more than 15 minutes to do if you have the engine out. Hope this helps.

I got a friend of mine to make mine but believe you can buy them from Amal. You can use the std stud if you leave off the o rings and compression cones for the o rings.

I got a friend of mine to make mine but believe you can buy them from Amal. You can use the std stud if you leave off the o rings and compression cones for the o rings.

I got a friend of mine to make mine but believe you can buy them from Amal. You can use the std stud if you leave off the o rings and compression cones for the o rings.

You're very welcome!

Glad you like it!

I spent over a year developing a microphone that could work at over 100mph with no wind sound, its not as easy as people may think to get this sound quality.

I use silicone on the rubber o ring seals that fit into the back of the primary. I also put silicone in the seal from the inside then I push the assembly together. Its a very messy job but worth doing. You must form an oil tight seal at that point and not try to fix it higher up the cable. I use the shrink wrap just to make it tidy and add protection to the cables, it cannot stop oil. The screen simply makes a big difference on the air pressure on your chest when riding allowing you to cruse comfortably at high speeds.

@@DaveWhellersVintage I've put heat shrink and 2 small cable ties at the back of the primary chaincase and right upto the push in connectors to the regulator but not using any silicone. After about 100 miles it seems to have done the trick, but I'm concerned at your remark about the silicone ,not using it further up the cable.

Sorry dont understand, is this a question?

No

I got mine from Dick Smiths online years ago. This one is abt same spec as mine. Duratool LCD Display with Backlight IR Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun. The Phenolic Spacers are from web site --- www.britishmotorcycleparts.co.nz/ up in Auckland. $97. Hope this helps.

This was made to help novices mate so of course its long winded.

Ive done the same as you and ran the float chambers out before putting the bike away. But this time something was different. I think the mixture become weak and with the bike forced to run at high rpm it just heated up real quick as the mixture weakened, the temperature rises obviously. Thats my best guess and the evidence is plain to see on the engines internals. You can even see the melted copper head gasket in the bores. . I wont be turning my fuel off again.

I got the new disc from Britishmotorcycleparts.co.nz -- up in Auckland.

Cheers🙂

Na shes very happy at high rpm and runs well up to 7k with little effort since I had the crank dynamically balanced.

@@DaveWhellersVintage I know it wasn't breaking a sweat because my ' 70 Daytona 500 4 speed ran at high RPM extreme amounts of time. Clean oil is all...

The ton is no problem and gets there pretty quick. I took her up to 111mph one time on a private flat road with no wind. Speed maxed and measured on a gps. She was still pulling and it was me that bottled out as the screen was getting flattened with the wind pressure. I dont make a habit of doing things like that though lol.

Thank you . This was the last ride of the year. Shes in wintering mode now tucked up in the workshop for next summer.

@@DaveWhellersVintage you've been great this year!

Lining up a C2 bearing in the crankcase housing whilst holding the crank vertical all at same time is almost impossible if you put the race in the housing first. A C2 bearing is a very close fit as it was explained in the video verse the C3 bearing. Doing it the way I have done it is very easy. If you use the three piece roller bearing kit you can seat the housing in the crankcase first but its still a proper fiddly job even then. Personally I prefer the two piece bearings as it all slots together beautifully as long as you heat the case up above 90C. This temperature is most important or you will never get the bearings to slot in cleanly. Hope this explains it for you.

If you want to use manometers then you will need to disconnect the balance pipe between the carbs. Use two manometers, one on each carb individually to balance your carbs for fine tuning. I doubt you will improve on the performance however. Lots of effort for very little reward in my opinion. On Honda fours using manometers is the only way to do it, but on these old twins its very easy. You must still do the mechanical part as I explained on the video first to set up your cables and carb stops. After this just fine tune with the idle air screw to get the best rpm. Hope this is of use.

Hi yes I would recommend getting it done dynamically but not statically on a balance bed, or the old way as some call it. Dynamic balancing Is not cheap but the difference is astonishing. Knowing what I learnt with this I whish I had done all my other Bonnies I have had over time. Until I had this old girl, which will be my last bike. I never experimented and every thing went back as it came out of the factory. Mine ticks over with hardly any vibration at all and at 3000 and above, shes as smooth as any jap bike. I would also recommend fitting a Pazon Altair Ignition system. The difference between contacts / Boyer up to the mk4 and even the new Trisparks is also amazing. Anyway its up to you and its all personal preference.

Straighten your chain case dead straight and run 100x90x18 tires. This leaves a full 5mm gap between the chain case and the tire sidewall. It may be possible to run a 110x 90 x 18 but ive never tried that. The 100 x 90 x 18 works perfectly and has been used by many Bonnie owners for many years because they work really well on the bike, in fact the orientation between front to back is much better, as you are not moving the centers as you lean the bike over on corners. I often have the bike over on the pegs and shes confident and stable on bends and under hard braking .I run Avon Roadrunners. I have added this to the description on the video and apologies for missing this bit out of the video. Well spotted and hope this helps.😄

Glad you enjoyed it!

If you have mk1 Amals then yes the tickler works fine on its own. Remember to remove the choke slides and blank off the top of the carb top. You can buy brass blanks from Amal to do that. I just use a stainless cap head screw with an o ring to form a seal and held in with a bit of silicone. The fumes will rot away the silicone over time but it lasts more than a few years so its no issue. Hope this is of use.

5million people in a country a bit bigger and a lot warmer than the UK = no traffic lol. Im from Yorkshire originally and I don't miss the traffic at all lol. Ride safe mate.

Thank you your most welcome. Plenty more to come before I take her off the road in May for wintering till next summer.

Glad I could help!

Have a question When you installed your electric starter, did you install a brass bush in your casing for the sprag gear? @@DaveWhellersVintage

@ood1134 Hi mate no I used my own design and used a fixed intermediate shaft with everything rotating around it. The cases are too weak to have rotation and the electric start forces all applied on just a 1/2" shaft all at once, so I just bored out the sprag and fitted a bush and then fixed the shaft in place basically. The sprag then rotates around the fixed shaft. You should also buy a 'PAZON Altair E' electronic ignition system. I got Andy there technical manager to re program it so the engine starts rotating before the coils energies to prevent any kick back, which destroys the sprag. Its freely available but you must ask for the E Version or just mention my name. I still have mine on test at the moment but once im satisfied it all works well together, then I will post a full video of the new starter design on here for all to use if the want. I am putting 5000 miles on her to test and will then dismantle and check everything over. Ive done 3000 now and all is good so just a bit more to go. There is a partial report you may find of use if you join the FB group T140 OIF Classics. I am a moderator on there. To find the article just search electric start and all will be revealed. Hope this is of use mate.

Thank you so much Dave, youre one smart cookie. I look forward to watching your findings regarding the 5000 mile breakdown report. I must admit I was very surprised to learn after looking how that sprag works, crazy and rubbish design. I'm sure your design will turn out much better. I purchased a Tri-Spark E I Anti kick back from Map Cycle hope that one works as well, I will check. May I be cheeky and perhaps temp you into making a second modified Dave design Sprag setup for me? Obviously charge me accordingly I could send you a new sprag. If not no worries gotta ask. Sent a request to T140 OIF Classics, Thx for your time Dave appreciate your input @@DaveWhellersVintage

@@stevewood1134 I am happy to supply any parts but only after I am satisfied the modifications are performing out on the road. Reliability is the target I have, and hope to have a full video and parts available in a few months. Unfortunately my house move has slowed the project down and do apologies for the frustration this has caused.

Go to the video I made of my last engine rebuild. In the description for the vid is listed all the equipment upgrades I now use. I also made a specific vide in my maintainace Play List that has all the videos relating to specific maintenance jobs with details in the description for each video.. Here is a link to the lithium battery one for your convenience mate. Hope this is of use Don't forget to click like and subscribe please on them. czcams.com/video/ZWplZCHhi4c/video.html

If you look at the description on the video it has all the details in there mate.

If you buy Lithium then you need one with at least 250cranking amps if you have electric start. You MUST get one with BMS or Battery managment system.

Thank you Dave @@DaveWhellersVintage

These old bikes live on TLC and I get more enjoyment working on them than riding them, but having to scrap endless chains for over stretch in such a short time is just a pain. So I did something about it. Whish I had been more active modifying the bikes to be more reliable with longer range when I was younger lol.

Remember you are only grinding off a few mm for the extra width of the chain and to mark out the chain run on the casting before grinding. Its very quick and easy to do. Once done put the chain on the sprocket and check you have the 4mm of clearance all round the chain run. That bit takes longer to do than the grinding but its important to to do.

Just a note that you need to use 100x 90 x 18 tires. 110x90x18 may be possible but never tried those. The 100x90x18 leaves a full 5mm gap from chain guard to tire side wall. The is no loss of performance using these tires. I use Avon Roadrunners.

Thx, I've just installed 110 80 x 18, when I laced the wheel I used the max offset so hopefully that will help, there appears from looking at the wheel in the frame to be just enough clearance for the xring chain. I'll have to wait until I bolt my engine in to be sure. I have assembled some some of the bike I'll post a picture on FB shortly. I use Avon's too.

Palmy to Balance Bridge

Manawatu New Zealand

Why not?

Yes I could have measured the weight difference, but with tech this old is a few kg going to make any difference if im just riding it for fun mate. My own wt changes more than that each month lol especially at Christmas lol. Some things are just pointless, and as I said this was the only disc I could get hold of here in NZ without paying an arm and a leg for it. With the new sintered pads the braking is probably three times better now than before, so in my book that's a total of only $200NZ or 100quid, of very well spent money. I could have spent a couple of grand with twin discs and calipers and light weight calipers. But would that be much better than what I have now. I think the difference would be splitting hairs now.

We know the weight already, since we know the volume of material removed as well as its density