Mazda B3000 / Ford Ranger / 3.0 Ford Water Pump / timing chain replacement
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- čas přidán 15. 03. 2021
- started out simple turned into a major job for a guy.
overall not too bad just worked on it longer than expected worst part was power steering / AC bracket.
thanks for watching!!! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I found this video after watching several others. No one clearly explained the steps for changing the timing chain and sprockets. I thought I would need a puller. All I knew was put it at TDC and line up the timing marks. Much simpler than I thought and this took the intimidation out. Thanks for all the other helpful stuff too.
Awesome ! Thanks for the comment👍
Great detailed video and loved your commentary along the way! I am now going to attempt to fix my Ranger. Thanks again.
I’m glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video man best one on CZcams for the rangers with great detail💪☝️
thanks for the comment👍
This is a great video thank you for making such an informative video!
You’re my kinda people, thanks for the video, I’m scared mine is leaking beyond my water pump, but I ain’t going through all that, the water pump is enough for me
Thanks for the video brother
Thanks for the comment!👍👍
That's a lot of work for a part time job but your good at it
I was taught by the best😀👍
excellent video
Thanks you helped me a lot!
Awesome👍 thanks for the comment
Ford uses red Loctite on harmonic balancer pully bolts on some vehicles. Heating to 400F could destroy the rubber damping ring in the harmonic balancer. I'm using blue when putting back together
Thank you👍
Thanks for the comment! glad you enjoyed it👍
Good stuff
I know this is old but i want to buy a water pump and new fan assembly and it ask. Is it super cool or regular? How do i know? Evidently the openong or where the hose attachrs is larger for one than the other..can one tell if its still on the truck?
The Timing Covers on those 3.0's are notorious leakers, I still need to do mine it has a slight leak on the left side that I suspect developed after I changed my water pump (which was bad it literally blew up). Gotta love Ford Engineers designing a setup to where some of the Water Pump bolts also bolt the timing cover on.
Yes this is a fact! 👍
Estoy arreglando mi pick Up Mazda B2300 8 bujias 4cilindros motor 2.3 del año 1994 y tienes razón tiene gran variedad de tornilleria por un momento llegué a pensar que fueron los anteriores mecánicos que realizaron reparaciones en el pasado quienes habían cambiado la tornilleria en el sistema de ignición. Ahora tengo que desmontar el Carter y no cuento con el manual de reparación de este modelo de pick Up mazda b2300 motor 2.3 8 bujias , 4cilindros 94 Ojalá encuentre aquí en youtube algo sobre este tema.
You should put a rag or plastic over the front edge of the oil pan to keep out debris even though you are replacing the oil.
Always a good idea to keep debris out of the old oil pan unit👍
Was the intake gasket blown
Do you remember if there are threads in the timing cover for those long 13mm water pump bolts? Or do they only thread in to the engine block? I know that the small 8mm water pump bolts only thread in to the timing cover.
I broke 4 of those 13mm bolts so I'm wondering if I should be able to slide the timing cover off over them, or if they are threaded into the cover as well?
Thanks.
I’m pretty certain that the 13mm thread into the block and the small 8mm bolts thread into the cover the cover should slide over the 13mm👍 thanks for the comment
@@ChristmanGarage thanks, that's a huge help.
excellent did not know how to remove the crankshaft seal
Thanks for the comment!👍
Do you have to put the crank pulley on in the exact same orientation you took it off because of the crankshaft position sensor?
It has a key way and can only go on one way 👍thanks for the comment
I bought a used 2002 Ranger with the same 3.0 L engine with 36K on the clock. Drove it 12 years/100K more miles. Except for normal replacement items, the only thing I had to replace was the idler pulley for the serpentine belt and a 1" vacuum hose on the backside center of the engine. Really hated to trade it in but I needed/wanted an upgrade after I retired. Curious, how many actual labor hours did it take to do all of this?
Maybe 5 or 6 hours
About to do the same. Just a question, Wouldn't be easier to put the engine belt on BEFORE you put the radiator back on?
You probably could the fan shroud is a little tricky getting out and back in the way it hooks on the radiator it’s a little tight however you plan on tackling it👍
Awesome video. I have a Mazda b3000 also and I cannot figure out how to get the fan off so I can replace my serpentine belt it just rotates whenever I try and unscrew the bolt. any suggestions?
I use a big wrench and tap on it with a hammer to break it loose once it breaks loose it will spun right off
Great video my friend! I knew I could trust your work when I seen your choice of work light. That’s easily the best light I’ve ever owned! Was curious if you used any RTV on the seals? Every other video I’ve seen it’s used. Seems unnecessary to me to put it on there, but don’t want to have any future problems out of it. Going to have to do the same thing to my ‘06 ranger and trying to only make one parts order.
It doesn’t hurt to put an ultra thin coat of silicone on the gaskets I would recommend the “ultra Grey high torque permatex” thanks for the comment👍
Did you put it at Top Dead center since you kept turning the engine over?
when I was turning the engine over all I did was line up the timing marks on the old gear set remove them and install the new ones with timing marks lined up. 👍 thanks for the view and comment!! 👍👍
@@ChristmanGarage makes sense. I will be doing that to mind next weekend along with putting in a remanufactured tranny. Thanks for the response.
@@mikeb5981 ye sir good luck and have fun!
When you replace timing chain to a new one was there still slack in the new one
Yes a little slack its not real tight 👍
Do you have torque specs for when replacing the timing chain? Thanks so much finally got all my parts together to finish this repair your video was a great guide on showing me what to do!
Sorry I know this may sound bad but usually the only thing I torque on an engine is the mains, rods, and heads. You should be able to google the torque specs though 👍
@@ChristmanGarage I understand that. Thanks for the quick response sir!
@@codyfowler3384 AF per Ford engineers lol. Seriously though I agree with above comment about checking online for them. Should be easy enough to find.
Are the heads off a 02 ranger the same as a 98 mazda b3000
I’m not absolutely positive but if they are both the 3.0 I would bet they are, Ford and Mazda are literally the same engines with different labels
Thanks for the question👍
How long did this take you? I'm thinking about changing my timing chain myself and want an idea of what it may take?
If I worked steady on this you’re probably looking about 4 hours. I usually have to stop and start and run get parts so I think it took me the better part of a day to complete this particular job👍
@@ChristmanGaragemuch appreciated. I think I'll be tackling this particular issue this weekend. Could I ask you a diagnosis question?
2000 Ford Ranger 3.0 v6. 263,000 miles
For a while on startup my truck has had a light "tic-tic-tic" sound. I thought it was a sticky lifter. On cold days it is louder, but went away after 3 minutes or so. I drive my truck every day. This past weekend, I didn't drive it for two days. When I cranked it up, it sounded terrible and ran rough. I have a bad 02 sensor, but thats never caused rough running. I drove it to work and at 3000 rpms there was no noise or issue, but when you let off the gas, it jerks like someone tapped the break. At idle it shakes bad and has lots of noise at the front of the engine down in the waterpump area. I checked my oil at work and it was barely on the stick. Did an oil change in the parking lot and took maybe 2 quarts out, i was 3k miles past when I should have changed it.. Didn't solve the issue. I should also mention I lose about a half a gallon of rad fluid over a out a months worth of driving from somewhere.
A coworker who used to be a Ford mechanic mention something about the timing chain. And that seems to fit. I'm thinking that I originally had a loose timing chain. Then when it sat over the weekend with low oil, the oil drained back to the pan and the chain possibly seized. On startup it gave the chain a good yank and gave it more slack. That slack is now great enough to allow a 1/4inch worth of play. At low rpms thw slack causes rough idle. At higher rpms, the slack is taken up by centerfugal force. Letting off the gas drops that force and it gets out of sync again.
Does that sound like a possibility? Another mechanic said ther is no way I would get to 60mpr with a bad chain. But I can't confirm that. All I know is I don't want to crank it again and risk throwing off time and ruining the engine. I feel a couple hundred bucks and a day ot two of time is worth it. Especially when the water pump probably needs to be replaced anyway. I don't think an engine would go 10 miles at 60mph with any kind catastrophic low oil issue.
The noise, the rough idle and my gut owning this truck for nearly 20 years says timing chain.
Awesome video the only question I have is what are the torque specs on the timing chain
crankshaft bolt is (92-122 ft lbs) camshaft sproket bolts are (41-51 ft lbs)
@@ChristmanGarage thanks man that job was a son-of-a-gun that was the first time and chain I have a done but it seems pretty straightforward
Got the same problem on may sons truck 02 ranger! Can you give me a list of every part you replaced while you had it apart like that lr every part that should be replaced while you're that deep into it thank you bro how long did it take ? the books say 11 hours that's for a mechanic sounds more like 11 months for me, you think it is just cheaper to have somebody put a new motor in it
First of all thanks for the comment! and make sure to tell your friends about the channel!
I will do my best to list all the parts but keep in mind every job has it's own challenges.👍
- water pump, gasket, and antifreeze
- timing cover gasket set, grey permetex (high torque)
- timing chain set
- few cans of brake clean
- NOTE you also may need that crows foot puller to get the harmonic balancer off.
I was able to save on the pan gasket just be careful when removing timing cover (Don't force it!)
I think the most aggravating part of the entire job was the power steering bracket it had some hard to get to bolts underneath and be careful not to brake the plastic tank on the back of it (I have done that more than a few times😂).
maybe this helps hope everything goes well for you!👍
@@ChristmanGarage thank you for the info I will share your Channel maybe I'll just push this thing off a cliff
@@yeolderooster8050 😂😂
When you were cranking the timing chain gears and it finally stopped/held itself. Can you explain this?
The gears don’t stop on their own I was just turning the crank until the timing marks lined up, there is a dot on the crank gear and the cam gear that should be pointed towards each other 👍
That’s what I thought but you never know. My mechanic buddy said that no one can do a timing chain without a kit etc etc and I see dozens of CZcams videos about this on rangers. Is the red thread sealant/locket required?
The lock tight is not mandatory but a good idea
How long did this take you?
maybe 5 or 6 hours not too bad
Hey man doing this right now, did you end up put the crank sensor back with the gap on the harmonical balancer? Do i have to move mine so it is in like with the crank sensor? Or if i put it on like you does it automatically go back to that gap on the harmonical balancer?
The crank sensor should not need to be calibrated. Once you put the balancer on and the sensor it will know what position it is in as long as the key way is in the balancer properly. Hopefully this helps👍 thanks for the comment!
@@ChristmanGarage you the man! Job went well thank you, earned my subscription
@@oo_viisiionz6164 awesome ! Thanks!👍
Great video with plenty of detail. Two things, however: 1) you complained excessively about Ford engineers. I have seen plenty of worse designs on GM and Chrysler products too. Remember, they ALL do stupid sh*t. 2) In the future, do yourself a favor and place cardboard or plywood on the floor where you are working with that ALUMINUM timing cover. Get one nick or deep scratch in that gasket surface and you may find yourself doing the whole job over again. That said, thanks for taking the time to make and post this video to benefit others!
Thanks for the comment and advice!👍
Should remove the radiator to remove the risk of damaging
There was a fair amount of room but that is a good idea thanks for the comment👍
Why not just unbolt the fan shroud and take the radiator out first ? You would have a lot more room to work.
That's how I do it, the Radiators on these trucks are silly easy to remove, and if you're doing a WP job you're draining the cooling system anyway.
Great video, but next time put your man pants on when you work on something.
A lot of crying and complaining, nobody holding a gun to your head to fix it. I swear to many cry babies in this country. Just shut up and do your job or go home!!! Also there is no need to change a timing chain. Maybe the guides need to be replaced. I guess some of us think where brighter then we really are. End up doing unnecessary work and charging the customer more!!!
Let’s see your videos, tough guy
@@FC64002 I can’t your mom said I can’t post them sorry buddy!
@@biodieselable Bahahahahaha see what I’m talking about… case closed
@@FC64002This engine doesn't even have timing chain guides. Typical keyboard mechanic. Talks a big talk but knows nothing