To any diyer thinking about taking your engine apart for the first time. Follow this video and nothing else. I did and the assembly video and it went smooth. This video makes something very complex actually very simple. Thanks for the awesome video
To those who think the marks should all be at 12 O'clock- you are forgetting or ignoring the simple purpose of this procedure- it is for removing the chains without damaging the valves with no extra special tools or disassembly! It is brilliant! When you put the chains on, then the marks will line up in a more familiar configuration. You are still talking about lining up six axis across a 45 degree bisectional plane because it is a 'V' configuration engine with 2 camshafts and a crankshaft per head with a dozen valves on each head. No such angle exists to line up five shafts and all 24 cam lobes with all the valves closed during disassembly. If you cannot grasp the simplicity of what I am saying, do not work on any more engines.
Thanks for the video. I am Kurdish. Been living in America for 8 years now. I love your videos. I am also learning about engines and cars. Recently I got a 2004 Mazda tribute that has Ford’s duratech 3.0 v6 engine. I have recently changed serpentine belt, water pump and tensioner, Thermostat and I repaired couple exhaust leaks. I am having issues with screeching noise that is very loud when I go over 2000 rpm and car does not go over 30 miles. I am having 2 codes p0135, p2195, p2196 I am still not sure if I fixed the exhaust leaks correctly. Would appreciate any comments or recommendations.
How do you suppose the cams would be perfectly clocked so that you can mark them where you want and have the crankshaft sit there perfectly timed while bisecting six angles? A single angle doesn't exist across all six planes simultaneously on a "V" engine configuartion. You are forgetting or ignoring the purpose of the procedure is not to line up the timing, it is the removal of the chains with all the valves closed. You are lining up a neutral position on five shafts with a total of six axis, with dual overhead cams with variable valve timing- so all 24 cam lobes and the crankshaft line up with all the valves closed at the same time, and you think you can just pick a spot to mark on the cam and crank pulleys that will happen to be right? Good luck. If you stop and think you will realize the set up is so brilliant and well thought out that you do not have to go out and buy an additional special tool or use vise grips on the camshafts to hold them in place to protect the valves. Be an engineer if you want. No one is stopping you. If you can do better, do it. Otherwise, follow the directions. If you aren't following the simple logic I have written here, you have no place in this field of repair. And, take your own advices, go meet and speak with an engineer. All the ones I have met wrenched on cars for three years or more while studying, before starting to study the engineering of the thing, and they are all wicked smart. Ask them in person why you pull some bolts that cannot be backed out all the way without hitting something else. You might be surprised at the very simple answer.
@@jessesyfert9359 Why did dodge engineers decide to solder the fuel pump relays into the bottom of the 1,000$ TIPM? Better yet, if they’re doing that why not use solid state ones instead of contact style relays so that they outlast the vehicle? Sometimes the answer is simply to make more money off consumers. I’m actually an engineer btw.
I'm close to 300k, in a 07, 3.0 duratec engine. I was told to replace a timing chain at 300k to prevent a break in the chain. My engine has been babyed since I bought it at 138k. Rarely goes over 2500 rpm.
The intial alingment of the timing marks move from the set position each revolution of the chain by about 2 links. I did not know that and disassembled the chains and tensioners after tuning the engine over and rechecking the timeing. The marks were not longer aligned. Why is that?
And those “clock” positions for the camshafts are in relation to the top of the cylinder head, where as the “clock” positions for the crank is in relation to the centerline of the block?
In a relation perpendicular to the surface (flat) position of the block and each of the heads. The perpendicular line would mark the 12 o'clock for each.
hello i need help I opened the v6 engine and I didn't mark anything, I took out the chain and now I don't know the position of the crankshaft and camshaft, can you give me some advice on how to solve it, thank you. This is a 2011 Porsche Panamera 3.6 v6
Except my wifes 2011 Ford Escape V6 didnt have the 3 bolt holes on the crankshaft pulley, and she bought it new, so now ask me the crazy scientist stuff I had to do to get that off...
I'm doing the gaskets on the timing case cover I wanted to change the tensioner and the followers can I do this without losing the clock positions nothing is under load to cause it to lose time is there?
because you will have valve to piston contact when you remove the chains the spring pressure will cause the cams to move and jam a valve into a piston the procedure I demo here is directly from Fords service manual the Factory does not lay out these procedures for no reason this kind of stuff is important with OHC engines
So the real question is.. can the cover be removed when engine is in the car? On my 06 3.0 fusion.. room is EXTREMELY tight.. getting ready to do a cover reseal and valve gaskets.. I am not looking forward to this. Any tips out there people? Has anyone done one out there with Engine in car?
@@simonmoffat4629 I'm about to do a set of head gaskets on an '07 Fusion. Any suggestions or advice to avoid any "Oh no..." moments? ~Rust Belt Warrior
To any diyer thinking about taking your engine apart for the first time. Follow this video and nothing else. I did and the assembly video and it went smooth. This video makes something very complex actually very simple. Thanks for the awesome video
To those who think the marks should all be at 12 O'clock- you are forgetting or ignoring the simple purpose of this procedure- it is for removing the chains without damaging the valves with no extra special tools or disassembly! It is brilliant! When you put the chains on, then the marks will line up in a more familiar configuration. You are still talking about lining up six axis across a 45 degree bisectional plane because it is a 'V' configuration engine with 2 camshafts and a crankshaft per head with a dozen valves on each head. No such angle exists to line up five shafts and all 24 cam lobes with all the valves closed during disassembly. If you cannot grasp the simplicity of what I am saying, do not work on any more engines.
Exactly!
Wow. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
that bolt holder pad is genius !
Thank you for your time and energy.
Excellent job on this instruction.
This is pretty awesome, thank you. I'll be watching more of your videos. 🚗
Thanks for the video. I am Kurdish. Been living in America for 8 years now. I love your videos. I am also learning about engines and cars. Recently I got a 2004 Mazda tribute that has Ford’s duratech 3.0 v6 engine. I have recently changed serpentine belt, water pump and tensioner, Thermostat and I repaired couple exhaust leaks. I am having issues with screeching noise that is very loud when I go over 2000 rpm and car does not go over 30 miles. I am having 2 codes p0135, p2195, p2196 I am still not sure if I fixed the exhaust leaks correctly. Would appreciate any comments or recommendations.
DID YOU FIND THE PROBLEM?
About to do this job. Really informative video. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Dónde está el sensor del árbol de elevas
brilliant video, a million thanks
Glad it helped
crank at 11, cams at 10 and 2. Why the hell didn't they just make it so everything lines up with all having marks at 12?
you will need to talk to the engeneers at ford to figure that out
i said the same thing today. like wtf?
How do you suppose the cams would be perfectly clocked so that you can mark them where you want and have the crankshaft sit there perfectly timed while bisecting six angles? A single angle doesn't exist across all six planes simultaneously on a "V" engine configuartion. You are forgetting or ignoring the purpose of the procedure is not to line up the timing, it is the removal of the chains with all the valves closed. You are lining up a neutral position on five shafts with a total of six axis, with dual overhead cams with variable valve timing- so all 24 cam lobes and the crankshaft line up with all the valves closed at the same time, and you think you can just pick a spot to mark on the cam and crank pulleys that will happen to be right? Good luck. If you stop and think you will realize the set up is so brilliant and well thought out that you do not have to go out and buy an additional special tool or use vise grips on the camshafts to hold them in place to protect the valves. Be an engineer if you want. No one is stopping you. If you can do better, do it. Otherwise, follow the directions. If you aren't following the simple logic I have written here, you have no place in this field of repair. And, take your own advices, go meet and speak with an engineer. All the ones I have met wrenched on cars for three years or more while studying, before starting to study the engineering of the thing, and they are all wicked smart. Ask them in person why you pull some bolts that cannot be backed out all the way without hitting something else. You might be surprised at the very simple answer.
@@jessesyfert9359 Why did dodge engineers decide to solder the fuel pump relays into the bottom of the 1,000$ TIPM? Better yet, if they’re doing that why not use solid state ones instead of contact style relays so that they outlast the vehicle? Sometimes the answer is simply to make more money off consumers. I’m actually an engineer btw.
I'm close to 300k, in a 07, 3.0 duratec engine. I was told to replace a timing chain at 300k to prevent a break in the chain. My engine has been babyed since I bought it at 138k. Rarely goes over 2500 rpm.
The intial alingment of the timing marks move from the set position each revolution of the chain by about 2 links. I did not know that and disassembled the chains and tensioners after tuning the engine over and rechecking the timeing. The marks were not longer aligned. Why is that?
Great video
Great video. Thank you
My 2011 doesnt have threaded holes in the harmonic balancer I had to buy a special puller that has little feet to get behind the inner web.
watch my how to get more power out of your small block chevy video
Great video Love the technical
Wow ... what a great video!
Thank you!
I have this engine. Do you know where I can print this manual?
Super
where can i get a copy of the manual and the front timing chain cover pad, please let me know think you
Ford
What if the driver side timing chain is the on in the front
So if this was my dirty old engine would I just be taking this stuff apart and cleaning it/ replacing what I’d worn out ?
And those “clock” positions for the camshafts are in relation to the top of the cylinder head, where as the “clock” positions for the crank is in relation to the centerline of the block?
In a relation perpendicular to the surface (flat) position of the block and each of the heads. The perpendicular line would mark the 12 o'clock for each.
Where can I get the engine disassembly book?
Hello,
Very interesting video
I have to rebuild an st200/svt duratec.
Do you know how to reset the chain tensioner?
Thanks from France
Yes it's in the video
Jesus Ford. Lets do things thr hardest way
Quiero saber donde esta para cambiarlo pero no lo encuentro
Dude that is awesome for the bolts. Best way Ive saw yet. Should you replace the cam bolts?
How could I get a copy of the book you are using in this video?
its from Ford
What size crankshaft socket are you using
I want to see the camshaft cap numbers
Mi carro es un Ford Fusion 3.0. 6 cilindros, 2008. Cuál es la posición correcta de las cadenas del tiempo?,
Nececito esa sincronización
Please! Can you send me the document about this engine in video.
❤
How do I get that manual?
this is the 2023 ranger raptor 3.0 petrol engine? Thanks for the reply
hello i need help
I opened the v6 engine and I didn't mark anything, I took out the chain and now I don't know the position of the crankshaft and camshaft, can you give me some advice on how to solve it, thank you.
This is a 2011 Porsche Panamera 3.6 v6
you need a service manual
Except my wifes 2011 Ford Escape V6 didnt have the 3 bolt holes on the crankshaft pulley, and she bought it new, so now ask me the crazy scientist stuff I had to do to get that off...
The '9-'12 don't have the threaded puller holes but they look set up for a standard 3 jaw puller.
I'm going to do this also
I'm doing the gaskets on the timing case cover I wanted to change the tensioner and the followers can I do this without losing the clock positions nothing is under load to cause it to lose time is there?
you shouldn't need to change them the chains and tensioners should last the life of the engine according to Ford
That's not what I asked! According to Ford trans fluid is lifetime to don't believe it.
Good vid
I laughed way too hard at R2D2! In my 2009 Escape XLT 3.0 the timing cover is plastic. My fan chewed through mine. Can I just replace the cover?
WHICH FAN?
Why shouldn’t I rotate the crank counter clockwise
it is hard on the tensioners
At 3:25 I think those are M8-1.25
Do the valve covers need to be completely off?
no
New shop?
Cams cover
Where can i Get This Book ?
Ford
So how do you know 100% that’s it’s an interference motor how do you know everywhere I look it’s mixed answers
Take the timing chains off and spin the engine until it hits the valves. And after it touches, get a breaker bar and turn the engine over 360 degrees.
Why not put the engine at TDC and lock it all , then remove everything and replace 😀
because you will have valve to piston contact when you remove the chains the spring pressure will cause the cams to move and jam a valve into a piston the procedure I demo here is directly from Fords service manual the Factory does not lay out these procedures for no reason this kind of stuff is important with OHC engines
Is this the same 3.0 used in the Ford GT?
So the real question is.. can the cover be removed when engine is in the car? On my 06 3.0 fusion.. room is EXTREMELY tight.. getting ready to do a cover reseal and valve gaskets.. I am not looking forward to this. Any tips out there people? Has anyone done one out there with Engine in car?
Did you ever figure it out? What all did you have to take off to get it off?
I have done this job 3 times with the engine in the car.
It is obviously a tight job , but it can be done 👍
@@simonmoffat4629 I'm about to do a set of head gaskets on an '07 Fusion. Any suggestions or advice to avoid any "Oh no..." moments? ~Rust Belt Warrior
@@Ignivomous How did it go? Did you have to resurface the heads?
Excellent job on this instruction.