A tip I saw on another channel was to put a coin with sticky tape behind the presser foot and wrap the thread around it to keep thread tight and freeing your hand for other tasks. The thread pulls out easily as you continue to sew
If you extend the length of the clutch actuator arm and connect it to the right side of the foot pedal instead of the left that will let you fine tune the clutch with more foot travel to do less clutch arm motion. I added an extra 12 inches to mine.
I've been monkeying around with this same idea. I have a Juki LU 1114-4 unison feed on a huge Mitsubishi needle positioner running on 3 phase 220 with a rotary phase converter. It's noisy but boy does it punch through. I think I'm going to do this exact mod. Thanks!
Great video. You are smart to keep that clutch motor. What people don't realize is that a clutch motor has a heavy flywheel spinning at 1725 or 3450 rpm's ready to transfer that energy into low speed torque and immediate punching power. While servo's start from a "dead stop" and have to try and punch through thick material. I'd have had servos and sold them as they could not punch through thick leather past 9-10 oz without chocking and being helped by hand wheeling. I buy used low speed clutch motors 1725 rpm's, and then reduce the speed through pulleys and belts. They are cheap and last forever. Servos are the automatic transmission of the sewing world.
Although brushless sevrvo motors have the ability to push through most anything similar to the clutch motor. Except You can select top speed and they have more power on tap
Ahhhh , I haven't heard Skookum for a bit 😂, great video and super mount on the bearings . I'm utilizing this when I get the Consew I just looked at . Thanks
If it says Seiko underneath the machine, then the model is a Consew 225. The 225 does not have reverse, and the model 226 does. Both have the standard (small) bobbin.
Same here, keeping all my clutch motors. For example in my Singer 457A135 industrial I have a fast motor and a large pulley, to sew extra fast on it when producing. But on my pfaff 145 40C H3 LMN, I´m keeping the original 1959 clutchmotor, its an old slow turning german motor, has run for ever, and with good preventive maintenance it will run forever.
I'm in the same boat, gotta slow down a 3 phase clutch motor for it to suit a domestic sewing machine and a novice. There are electrical devices called "VFDs" or Variable Frequency Drives which essentially can slow down a motor to whatever speed you'd like. About $60 from the far east. Another benefit is that a 3 phase motor can be powered from a single-phase. A lot of clutch-hate in the below comments, these are more suited for industrial settings where they'll last a long time, servos might be better for the individual who does more varied and sparse sewing.
I just put a new servo motor on my 225 consew I also have pulley reduction. I took the reverse switch on the servo motor and moved it to outside the motor, and mounted it on the side of the table it’s a double pole double through momentary switch. Now it has reverse and is so controlled it works perfectly. Best 120$ I could spend
just ordered the pillow blocks, only need a small motor pulley and the big one, which I found at a big box building supply, and 2 belts. I hate to get a servo motor, which would leave 2 clutch motors to trip over. this way I will have a spare motor. if it isn't slow enough , the pulley on the machine can be swap with a larger pulley
I want to do something similar. I bought the pillow bearings and 5/8” rod at Princess Auto. I know Canadian tire has pulleys. I like how you mounted the pulleys under the table
Smaller pulleys do assist and they help by reducing speed and adding torque but the full torque an AC servo motor gives from stand still cannot be matched. They're also far cheaper to run for most.
Impressive - Charles Jean here - Kiambu, Kenya. I'd love to set up a similar arrangement. Kindly list out for me the various items I need to purchase. Thanks
Thanks for watching in Kenya! I don't have any part numbers but you'll need 2 pillow block bearings and a shaft of the same diameter. The small pully should be about a 2" and the large one 6-8" . the belts will have to be measured once you have it all positioned on your sewing table.
Very nice, I wonder about using a salt water rheostat to slow down the motor. ? ? I have one of these and I always thought that it would be like a variable speed, not at all.
Great job I would like to do the same with an old singer machine I got. It's way too fast for me. Would you please tell me in which outlet you bought the pulleys? I also live in Canada. Thanks for posting the video it's very helpful.
Thanks! It works pretty well. I got my pulleys and pillow blocks from a local oilfield supplier. But I see Princess Auto and even Canadian Tire have similar stuff.
I love your shirt, any idea where I can order one online? I've been after one for a while now, i get a trapped nerve in my shoulder and its murder if i get a draught around my neck!!
Nice work where do you get the pulleys accessories I own a 1956 singer industrial no reverse but works really nice and I like to put that kind of speed reducer like you dead please help
I'm not familiar with that particular machine but it looks like its belt driven so the same principal applies. Go from your motor to a large 8-10" pulley and on the same shaft mount a small 2" pulley and a belt from there to your sewing machine. The pillow blocks will have to be mounted on the frame of your table so that everything lines up of course.
We get it that you are a sincere fellow. However; a servo motor only costs about $140. and will COMPLETELY change the personality of ANY industrial sewing machine. Servo motors are designed to EASILY retrofit to ANY industrial machine; the only proviso is that you may need to change the belt length. Know that the belt is NOT included with a new servo motor. The difference between a machine equipped with a servo motor and one with a clutch motor is basically like night and day. It's like comparing a walking foot machine to one with only bottom feed. A servo motor has a speed control knob that allows a variety of speed/ torque settings and YES; you can also change the output pulley on a servo motor to SLOW the machine down to a dead crawl if that floats your canoe; albeit with a proportional loss of torque. On the subject of torque; YES; the increased moment of inertia of the spinning mass of the clutch motor CAN increase the penetrating force of the needle; but I would posit that only matters if you are using a machine to sew material at the upper limit of it's rated capacity. Your ingenuity is to be admired; but in my opinion your advice is flawed; good luck with your clutch motor. Call me stupid; but the first thing I do when I get a new (to me) industrial machine is install a servo motor.
Yes, the machines i started with all had clutch loud annoying clutch motors. Training new employees on clutch motors, costly pain in the ass. Servo motors are the best thing to ever hit the upholstery trade, i have a hand full of clutch motors collecting dust behind my shop. Tried to sell them on garage sales… no go. Lol
This is a prank right?I control my juki LU563 speed with my foot,that’s the point of a clutch motor.I guess you and others can’t learn correct foot pressure
chuck that clutch. one of those new SERVO MOTORS sells for just over $100 and works much better. that old clutch and motor is a noisy hunk of junk that belongs down river . you don't even need to fool with any reductions, pullies or anything else. OK I guess a person can fool around with that old clunker motor for the joy of it .
Hi Jeff, try this speed reduction on a 1725 rpm clutch motor. The clutch motors have more low end torgue and punching power when geared down with pulleys and belts to the speed you want. With that spinning flywheel, they don't chock on thick belts or sheaths. Just my 2 cents. Take care, Jason
@@labodaleatherlabodaleather5734 I find the servo motor has complete power to punch through anything, and the control to avoid breaking needles. That heavy clunker clutch motor went downstream bye bye and lightened up the strain on the continental crust around here. I'm glad you love yours, i wish mine was over there with you being loved. Thanks for the time and the 2 cents though !
No seems to be working fine. Lots of applications have bearings like that such as electric motors, or the water pump and alternator on a car. The other thing is don’t over tighten the belts. Thanks for watching!
A tip I saw on another channel was to put a coin with sticky tape behind the presser foot and wrap the thread around it to keep thread tight and freeing your hand for other tasks. The thread pulls out easily as you continue to sew
Thanks! I’ll have to give that a try!
If you extend the length of the clutch actuator arm and connect it to the right side of the foot pedal instead of the left
that will let you fine tune the clutch with more foot travel to do less clutch arm motion. I added an extra 12 inches to mine.
that works Great!
and it looks Cool.
I've been monkeying around with this same idea. I have a Juki LU 1114-4 unison feed on a huge Mitsubishi needle positioner running on 3 phase 220 with a rotary phase converter. It's noisy but boy does it punch through. I think I'm going to do this exact mod. Thanks!
Incredibly impressed by your ingenuity, and retention of the original motor! Bravo!
Thanks you!!
Super slow...super torque
Great video. You are smart to keep that clutch motor. What people don't realize is that a clutch motor has a heavy flywheel spinning at 1725 or 3450 rpm's ready to transfer that energy into low speed torque and immediate punching power. While servo's start from a "dead stop" and have to try and punch through thick material. I'd have had servos and sold them as they could not punch through thick leather past 9-10 oz without chocking and being helped by hand wheeling. I buy used low speed clutch motors 1725 rpm's, and then reduce the speed through pulleys and belts. They are cheap and last forever. Servos are the automatic transmission of the sewing world.
A servo motor is more than enough for any compound feed upholstery machine and it’s limit, btw the last two automatic trans have had 250,000+ miles….
Agreed 100% on the clutch motor.
Although brushless sevrvo motors have the ability to push through most anything similar to the clutch motor. Except
You can select top speed and they have more power on tap
Ahhhh , I haven't heard Skookum for a bit 😂, great video and super mount on the bearings . I'm utilizing this when I get the Consew I just looked at . Thanks
Very practical setup. I like how you have the pulley reduction under the table. Thanks for sharing and cheers from a yooper.
Thanks!!
Good Job Terry. PS. Really appreciating all you Canadians right now :)
Thanks!
If it says Seiko underneath the machine, then the model is a Consew 225. The 225 does not have reverse, and the model 226 does. Both have the standard (small) bobbin.
Yes seems a lot of companies basically copied the singer 111 in those days and it becomes a little grey.
Same here, keeping all my clutch motors. For example in my Singer 457A135 industrial I have a fast motor and a large pulley, to sew extra fast on it when producing.
But on my pfaff 145 40C H3 LMN, I´m keeping the original 1959 clutchmotor, its an old slow turning german motor, has run for ever, and with good preventive maintenance it will run forever.
You are an amazing of a Thinker.
Very interesting information. The you for sharing. Viewing from the French island St Martin in the Caribbean. Blessings
Thanks for watching. I’d love to visit your beautiful part of the world some day!
My Addler is very similar. It was made in the late 1940ies and used in production for many years. I still use it today (2021).
What model is your Adler? I just picked up a 105 like new. I think it's mid to late 50's.
@@totallyjonesin 37-7. Mine's got many battle scares on it but sews like perfection.
Good info!
Very informative. Thanks for sharing . I begin to make your idea.👍
Great job 👏
Thanks!
Awesome
I'm in the same boat, gotta slow down a 3 phase clutch motor for it to suit a domestic sewing machine and a novice. There are electrical devices called "VFDs" or Variable Frequency Drives which essentially can slow down a motor to whatever speed you'd like. About $60 from the far east. Another benefit is that a 3 phase motor can be powered from a single-phase. A lot of clutch-hate in the below comments, these are more suited for industrial settings where they'll last a long time, servos might be better for the individual who does more varied and sparse sewing.
Very nice!
Thanks!
thanks for the Idea, you sure made my job easier...and cheaper! like you said , I can sill get a servo later, it will work with this pulley system too
I just put a new servo motor on my 225 consew I also have pulley reduction. I took the reverse switch on the servo motor and moved it to outside the motor, and mounted it on the side of the table it’s a double pole double through momentary switch. Now it has reverse and is so controlled it works perfectly. Best 120$ I could spend
Nice! Check out my other video with a servo motor on a singer with a reduction.
Well done.
Thanks
just ordered the pillow blocks, only need a small motor pulley and the big one, which I found at a big box building supply, and 2 belts. I hate to get a servo motor, which would leave 2 clutch motors to trip over. this way I will have a spare motor. if it isn't slow enough , the pulley on the machine can be swap with a larger pulley
I want to do something similar. I bought the pillow bearings and 5/8” rod at Princess Auto. I know Canadian tire has pulleys. I like how you mounted the pulleys under the table
Smaller pulleys do assist and they help by reducing speed and adding torque but the full torque an AC servo motor gives from stand still cannot be matched. They're also far cheaper to run for most.
Impressive - Charles Jean here - Kiambu, Kenya. I'd love to set up a similar arrangement. Kindly list out for me the various items I need to purchase. Thanks
Thanks for watching in Kenya! I don't have any part numbers but you'll need 2 pillow block bearings and a shaft of the same diameter. The small pully should be about a 2" and the large one 6-8" . the belts will have to be measured once you have it all positioned on your sewing table.
Very nice, I wonder about using a salt water rheostat to slow down the motor. ? ? I have one of these and I always thought that it would be like a variable speed, not at all.
Great job I would like to do the same with an old singer machine I got. It's way too fast for me.
Would you please tell me in which outlet you bought the pulleys? I also live in Canada. Thanks for posting the video it's very helpful.
Thanks! It works pretty well. I got my pulleys and pillow blocks from a local oilfield supplier. But I see Princess Auto and even Canadian Tire have similar stuff.
I love your shirt, any idea where I can order one online?
I've been after one for a while now, i get a trapped nerve in my shoulder and its murder if i get a draught around my neck!!
I think it was a hand me down from my kids 😆
Mon Ami , C'est un juki 562 . Bonjour de Louisianne , USA
Bonjour and Happy July 4
Nice work where do you get the pulleys accessories I own a 1956 singer industrial no reverse but works really nice and I like to put that kind of speed reducer like you dead please help
Thanks Javier! I think the best place to find these parts is a farm supply store if you have one in your area.
@@terrylevasseur2819 Farmers tractor supply
what thick thread are you using for that machine, I have that machine
92 seems to work well
Juki 563, I think
Any idead how to slow down an Pfaff 463 to stich leather?
I'm not familiar with that particular machine but it looks like its belt driven so the same principal applies. Go from your motor to a large 8-10" pulley and on the same shaft mount a small 2" pulley and a belt from there to your sewing machine. The pillow blocks will have to be mounted on the frame of your table so that everything lines up of course.
We get it that you are a sincere fellow.
However; a servo motor only costs about $140. and will COMPLETELY change the personality of ANY industrial sewing machine.
Servo motors are designed to EASILY retrofit to ANY industrial machine; the only proviso is that you may need to change the belt length.
Know that the belt is NOT included with a new servo motor.
The difference between a machine equipped with a servo motor and one with a clutch motor is basically like night and day.
It's like comparing a walking foot machine to one with only bottom feed.
A servo motor has a speed control knob that allows a variety of speed/ torque settings and YES; you can also change the output pulley on a servo motor to SLOW the machine down to a dead crawl if that floats your canoe; albeit with a proportional loss of torque.
On the subject of torque; YES; the increased moment of inertia of the spinning mass of the clutch motor CAN increase the penetrating force of the needle; but I would posit that only matters if you are using a machine to sew material at the upper limit of it's rated capacity.
Your ingenuity is to be admired; but in my opinion your advice is flawed; good luck with your clutch motor.
Call me stupid; but the first thing I do when I get a new (to me) industrial machine is install a servo motor.
I hear ya. Check out my other video “singer with a servo” It is very precise and if you do want to go fast you have the option.
Sorry that should have said servo on a Singer.
Yes, the machines i started with all had clutch loud annoying clutch motors. Training new employees on clutch motors, costly pain in the ass. Servo motors are the best thing to ever hit the upholstery trade, i have a hand full of clutch motors collecting dust behind my shop. Tried to sell them on garage sales… no go. Lol
Do you have an engine supply for me to buy and send to Indonesia?
no sorry i don't
Hola que medida tiene el pulley más grande
Hola que mide 10 pulgadas
(I don’t know any Spanish but that’s what Translate told me. Hope this helps:)
@@terrylevasseur2819 Gracias
This is a prank right?I control my juki LU563 speed with my foot,that’s the point of a clutch motor.I guess you and others can’t learn correct foot pressure
Hey we’re not all pros like you.
Hola español videos
chuck that clutch. one of those new SERVO MOTORS sells for just over $100 and works much better. that old clutch and motor is a noisy hunk of junk that belongs down river . you don't even need to fool with any reductions, pullies or anything else. OK I guess a person can fool around with that old clunker motor for the joy of it .
Hey thanks for watching, and check out my next video. i put a servo on a Singer.
Hi Jeff, try this speed reduction on a 1725 rpm clutch motor. The clutch motors have more low end torgue and punching power when geared down with pulleys and belts to the speed you want. With that spinning flywheel, they don't chock on thick belts or sheaths.
Just my 2 cents. Take care,
Jason
@@labodaleatherlabodaleather5734 I find the servo motor has complete power to punch through anything, and the control to avoid breaking needles. That heavy clunker clutch motor went downstream bye bye and lightened up the strain on the continental crust around here. I'm glad you love yours, i wish mine was over there with you being loved. Thanks for the time and the 2 cents though !
Consew machine
Clutch motors suck in every way… There is no advantage there is only disadvantage
More punching power as they have a heavy flywheel spinning to transfer power when you need it.
Whatever flips your switches though ay
@@bushratbeachbum Only if you near full engagement.
do you think it would work with a 14" pulley in place of the 10"?
I'm sure that would work fine. more reduction.
have you had any problems with the bearings with the load only on one side and not in the middle of the two?
No seems to be working fine. Lots of applications have bearings like that such as electric motors, or the water pump and alternator on a car. The other thing is don’t over tighten the belts. Thanks for watching!
@@terrylevasseur2819 what is the ID of the pulleys, OD of shaft?
I used 1/2”
@@terrylevasseur2819 I've about scrounged everything I need except the belt , I've got an 5/8 shaft and 8" pulley. thanks for the help