Chrysler 3.7 & 4.7 Lash Adjuster Failure Worst Case Ever
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- This is the worst-case scenario I have ever seen, where the lifter (lash adjuster) failed and the rocker arm falls off or flys off causing serious engine damage, not just to one engine but 2 that I found at Pic-a-Part. One to a 05 3.7L and the other to a 03 4.7 This is a common problem with all the Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, and Mitsubishi. Oil change intervals and the quality of motor oil are important.
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My 06 liberty just started what I believe to be a lifter knock. I was going to take it to work tomorrow until I saw this! I just ordered lifters and im taking my wife's car. Thank you for saving my heads! Great video.
Thank you for watching, another thing that can cause that noise is a hydraulic timing chain tensioner.
There's a guy on ebay selling a fix for this. It's a common problem with these chrysler engines.
My 4.7L made excessive lifter noise, then i heard about the Seafoam spray made for the throttle body. Yku spray the can into the throttle body while engine running at 2000 rpms, when the can is emtied (about 5 min later) shut off and sit for 15 min. Then drive ot like you stole it to loosten up the debry. That was three years ago and it runs great. A 2002 with 215000 miles. Sea foam works. I also use 1 ounce sea foam per quart about 200 miles prior to an oil change. Thanks Martin , and God bless you! Robert S.
Can't beat the old 4.0 strait six. One of the reasons why i don't get a newer Jeep. 2001 Jeep Cherokee is my stopping point.
yea you can't beat the 4.0 for reliability.
Thanks,Martin.Now I have another thing to worry about.lol.Good video.
I like using 16 oz. Marvel Mystery Oil Pint amzn.to/2PXlyAL or Rislone 100QR Pack of 1 Engine Treatment amzn.to/34xPXJ6
to keep thing clean inside and operating properly. I used Rislone years ago to fix a lifter problem that I was having with a Dodge 440.
I've been watching a lot of videos you like one of the best mechanics I've seen
Martin, I always watch your vids. I own a ZJ but I still watch. You have GREAT GENIOUS IDEAS but I don't have some of the tools you have, THE IMPORTANT ONES. NEVER KNOW WHAT YOU'LL COME UP WITH NEXT, LOL.
Thanks, Martin. I like that you always explain the importance of maintenance on time. my wj 4.7 has a problem with botadores and thanks to your channel, instead of putting additives or getting used to the noise until it heats up, I bought the 16 lifters and as soon as I get the changes following your videos. A big hug from Argentina !!!! and I ask you a favor, would you explain to me what else to control since I take out the valve covers? (time chain?) hug!
To replace the lifters is easy once the valve covers are removed. In this video, I explain how to do that. czcams.com/video/vSxhnpl-0kE/video.html
No need to do anything with the timing chain. Just make sure when rotating the engine you also go clockwise.
@@martinbuilt changed all lifters on passenger side, 3 were completely shot, and also replaced exhaust manifold studs (one broken) and gaskets. i still have a loud lifter tick. Rockers, springs, cam lobes, etc all looked good while i was in there. Any thoughts now... ???
@@andrewday818 another thing that can make that noise is a hydraulic timing chain tensioner.
Mopar oil filters have an anti-drain back check valve built in to hold the oil in the oil pump after shut down that helps prevent hydraulic lifters from falling off. I use Hy-Per Lube HPZ212 Zinc Replacement Additive, a half quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and say a prayer with every oil change :-)
Hi Martin, just bought a ‘04 4.7 Dakota with 154k and I’ve been binging your videos trying to learn what I can do to make sure my engine makes it another 100k. You mentioned that one of the failed engines was an ‘05 with the improved rocker arm design and it looked like it received regular oil changes. So apparently good maintenance and the improved rocker design is not enough. I assume the failure in that case was due to a failed lash adjuster that the owner didn’t replace even after the tell-take ticking. Pulling the valve covers off seems a bit of a pain, so I’d like to do it once and I’m thinking about replacing the rocker arms and the lash adjusters as a preventative measure. Can I harvest rockers from a junkyard engine or do I have to buy new rockers due to wear patterns not matching on my cam lobes and the harvested rockers? Also, I have yet to see anyone online recommend a source for the lash adjusters, but I have seen a couple of different brands. Any recommendations? Thanks again!
I am disappointed with the quality of the materials that Chrysler uses and with its foundry processes. This is a weakness of the head. I am worried because I have the same engine (3.7L Jeep Liberty) but if this catastrophe occurs to my engine I will probably go back to good old Magnum 5.2.
Wow I'm scared that might happen to myn, on a cold start I can hear my lifters but after it warms up it goes away
I have good luck with Rislone amzn.to/2ZUYHoT it fixed a lifter problem I was having with Dodge 440. If that doesn't work I would suggest replacing the lifter ASAP.
Check your exhaust manifold gaskets also, the ticking could be them. Quite common to have broken bolts.
@@brendanjames7122 thanks, but I'm sure it's the lifters, I had some one else tell me there is sludge in them, but I checked and all are still good and no cracks, when the truck warms up after about 1 min and 30 secs the truck runs quiet and no noise at all
@@jessethigpen3157 I was just throwing it out there as something to check. Our '04 Overland had broken manifold bolts and would tick until the manifold warmed up enough to stop the leak, then it would go quiet. After fixing the problem on that side there was no longer any ticking noises. Now the other side broke a bolt lol.
yep check your exhaust manifold bolts. Also worn timing chain tensioners will cause loud click on cold starts.
Just found your channel and It is really informative, however last time I was ever into an engine doing lifters and such was back in my late teens, we're talking 1997ish some 23 years ago and I was a camaro v8 guy at the time. I need some advice on my 04 4.7 durango. It starts fine, has the typical lifter tick for 30ish seconds and has one exhaust manifold that seems to have a slight crack in it. 224k miles, replaced plugs some 10k miles ago. I have had issues with coil packs burning out here and there and have recently just replaced them all. My main issue is it seems to just not have a lot of power when trying to drive over mild hills on a standard hwy, I can't even attempt to turn out in front of another vehicle unless I have 3/4 of a mile distance to get up to speed. The check engine light blinks sometimes when I try to gain speed to get over a hill, the vehicle will drop speed going over a hill and attempting to pass another vehicle is not ideal and when it kicks down to passing gear it clatters really bad. It did have a new fuel pump installed in 2013. She's an old girl, has treated me pretty decent over the year, she needs a new heater core as there is also a slight leak and coolant will fog up the inside wind shield a little but not water on the floor board. I'm just wondering what things I can check to possible find the issue if even possible to fix or worth it.
Personally I would run some BG EPR before an oil change. It cleans the motor out really well. Brings new life to it! Dump it on, rev the engine for about 15 to 20 @1200 to 1800 rpm and then pull the plug. I personally use amsoil but you can use what you use.
I’m having this exact same issue. Did you ever figure out exactly what it was? I’ve replaced map sensor, throttle position sensor twice now, new pigtails, new plugs an still nothing. Starting to think it’s a lifter issue as I have no misfires anymore, but keeps throwing the throttle position sensor code even after replacing it.
@@GR3DGE did you reset the computer or clear the code? (I'm sure you did but just curious).
@@JF32304 I did multiple times. It would start right back up an throw the same code. Took off the valve covers yesterday night after work to check lifters because at this point idk what else it could be. Opened up the driver side valve cover and seen the lower tensioner for the timing jus sitting there broke. I’m assuming at this point that is what it’s got to be. A lot of play in the chain an it jus won’t run right. Getting timing kit this weekend an gonna take a jab at that an try to do it my self before I pay the shop to do it.
@@GR3DGE yeah if you have a lot of play in the chain that might be what it is. It's not cheap to replace that chain..
My 4.7 is loosing coolant. A gallon every 2 months. None on ground. Oil looks fine. But smell coolant occasionally after diving it. But lash adjusters keep going bad or popping out on passenger side only.
could be a leaky head gasket and burning it in the cylinder, also check very closely around the water pump. That leak is small enough that you wont see it on the ground.
Have you replaced any of the lash adjusters and how the oil pressure?
@@martinbuilt found coolant leaking from timing cover. Cleaned oil pick up tube. Did replace all lash adjusters. Kept throwing them. Probably from coolant in the oil. Mine does keep throwing #2 as well. Did you see my link above with the video about shimming lash adjusters solving this issue? Curious what you think.
I need help with a 4.7 passenger head that I found metal shavings in the lash adjusters
I'm changing my valve lash adjusters on my 3.7 jeep commander, because it was misfiring like crazy, Found out one of the intake valve is stuck open. Now I think the only fix for this is replacing the cylinder head. Or getting a valve job on the head. Is the any tricks to free the intake valve or it's just game over for me ? Any suggestions?
sounds like a valve seat has dropped and held the valve open. You will need to replace the cylinder head.
How did you know the intake valve was stuck open? I am having same issue, and after replacing lifter and rocker arm, rocker arm is too loose andfalls off. Could this be aintake valve stuck open?
@@dianeeaton-brinson6079 yes that's exactly the sign .
@@dianeeaton-brinson6079 That is a valve seat that dropped and is holding the valve open. You will need to replace that cylinder head or have it repaired.
The only other thing it could be is a broken valve spring but, I doubt that.
What is the deal with the 3.7 our 2008 jeep liberty 50,000 miles same exact problem well-maintained and oil changes
I'm not sure if i'm douing the rigth thing but...i allways add a quart of marvel mystery oil to my oil when i changed it....so far no issues...those were some clean engines martin...scarry to watch.
I use Marvel's Mystery Oil as well. I add around 16 to 24 oz. to an oil change. but nothing wrong with a quart. I also like Rislone.
@@martinbuilt im glad you use it martin...feel safer..cheers!
My 4.7 did dame thing broke head around lifter. Can I get away with just replacing heads? Is it worth fixing? It'd still a very nice jeep with 187k miles
found you dzlfreek nice vids! glad you helped him find that damned drone lol Fair Winds and Smiles
Oh come on Martin, a little dab of J B Weld, and some bailing wire would have that up and running in no time! LOL
yep, a little spit and baling wire should do the trick.
probably revving the engine too high or ram rodding the engine to cause that much damage.
I've actually seen one worse than this where the cambolts were either snapped off or scripped out of the heads, and the only thing holding the camshaft in place was the timing chain.
@@martinbuilt wow that is crazy
Replacing a header will do trick, I suppose?
I have seen other cases where Lifters and Rocker Arms are put New and they come off still , I'am looking for advice Matin Thanks in advance
In those situations the oil galley must be plugged and I would remove the lifter and rocker arm and actually fire the engine for a few seconds to make sure the oil actually does come shooting out of the galley.
This is why I feel it's important to do scheduled oil changes religiously and use a quality motor oil.
What causes these engines to lose oil pressure to the lifters? I had an 04 liberty that was pampered only to have all the lifters lose oil pressure. I did a complete upper end overhaul and it lasted 2 months before it happened again. Ended up flushing the crankcase and trading it in.
I have seen some low-quality lash adjusters on several engines, if you are able to push the top of the lash adjuster down I say that is no good. It should feel like a solid lifter. What did you use to flush the crankcase?
@@martinbuilt
I used NAPA high end parts on everything I do. This car we bought new, had 125 thousand on it, had the oil changed every 3000 miles, three tuneups, three cooling system flushes and three transmission services. When I did the top end I did everything, new guides, new lifters, new valves. Because of its age and mileage and my wife getting ready to retire within the year I told her if it did again we were trading it in while we could still afford a payment. I had read on line that the 3.7 and the 4.7 have a poorly designed crankcase ventilation system that causes engine sludging that starts to block the oil passages. It did have a brown film on top of everything when I took it apart. Don’t know it that was it or not and I certainly didn’t suspect brand new lifters to have gone bad. I don’t remember what I used to flush the crankcase, something off the shelf at NAPA. I worked long enough to trade it in.
Hay Martin Did you ever pull the heads off where the valves bent after that collapsed lifter on the dodge 4.7 L my truck did the exact Same thing and was wondering if it meant the valves or put holes in the pistons mine also did it with no warning was traveling down the interstate when this happened
no I didn't pull the heads off of that engine.
What do you think about the rocker arm clips that are out there being sold to remedy the rockers spitting out even if the lash adjuster collapses?
I don't have any experience with them but I'm sure they do work. They are good insurance. I would still replace the bad lash adjuster.
What causes that to happen?? I have a 11 dodge nitro 3.7 with that same issue
the problem should not happen with the 2011, or should not be as bad as the earlier years. Do you live in a cold climate?
2008 ram with 3.7. has cylinder 3 misfire ONLY AT IDLE. new plugs, new coils, and now new Denso 12582704 injectors (thanks to another of your videos). that said it has not thrown the code again since the injectors this morning. but there is till a ever so slight stumble at idle... could the lash adjusters be bad even without making any noise at all .
glad to hear you got it running better. Have you cleaned the IAC valve and throttle body?
@@martinbuilt no, all i did was clean the throttle body best i could while i was doing the injectors. didn't figure it would make a difference being as all my issues are cylinder 3 at idle. suppose it couldn't hurt though.
Great info, question not related to this video, can you swop a 4.7HO engine with a 4.7L in a Jeep WJ 2000, plug and play, or do you need to change more than the ECM?
Plug, Play and Enjoy! The only thing I would consider is running 91 or 93 octane fuel because you will not be able to utilize the knock sensors that the HO engine has.
martinbuilt @ thank you, quick and just what I wanted to hear 👍😁
This is exactly what just happened to mine.
Is there a milage that this usually happens? I'm at 225k on my '02 Dakota and have my adjusters on their way. Crossing my fingers ;-)
I have seen it as low as 113K. Use high-quality oil and change the oil every 3K to 3.5K and you shouldn't have any problems. I also like Marvel Mystery Oil or Rislone additives.
My dad has a 2007 dakota. 3.7 had it since new. Actually won it at a casino. But he has been hard on it. He would never change oil. I would drive it and realize it wasnt changed for 20,000 or something and id change it. Always used good synthetic and good filters... But still. I also kept the copper plugs changed. Hes got 211,000 on it now. Id say 90 percent of that is highway miles. The other being dirt roads and idling. I can tell the engine is tired but im currently driving it 50 miles a day to work as my vehicle s are broke down. This truck always amazed me because he would have an issue it would appear done for. Then he would beat on it hard and it would bring it back to life. Like the time the trans cooler line blew off deer hunting. He drove it home 30 sum miles with the tranny bone dry. Put fluid in. It would hardly move. He said watch this. Slammed it up and down the road as fast and rough as possible... Came right back. Put another 100,000 miles on it... Crazy stuff like that. Engine over heated. Was ticking horrible. Just beat on it and it bounced back. Almost makes this truck seem like it will never die. Lol
Hey Martin I have recently started following your page as I bought a 2002 Jeep Laredo with a 4.7. I found a lash adjuster has collapsed and the rocker arm came out. Doesn’t appear to have hurt the head or cam shaft but the lash adjuster is seized in the head. Any ideas as to get it out of the head ?Haven’t been able to find much material on the matter thanks in advance
I have seen a few that have been stubborn when it comes to getting them out. Have you tried any type of penetrating oil around the latch adjuster or perhaps even clamp a vice grip to the latch adjuster and try pulling it out. How about applying some heat with a propane torch to the latch adjuster boss of the cylinder head.
Hi Martinbuilt. Thanks for putting these videos up.
Question. I’ve got a 2010 Dakota with the 3.7 and occasionally on startup I get a clatter that goes away in about 2-3 seconds and then everything is good. Doesn’t happen all the time but more if the truck sits for a few days. I run Mobile 1 full synthetic with their filters. Do you think this is a collapsing lifter and should I be changing them all out? Drivetrain is stock with about 90,000 miles on it.
Thanks again.
hmm..if you know witch lifter it is for sure you could just change the one. Or it is a lot of work just to remove the valve cover, since you got the cover off you may want to change them all. If it was me and I knew witch lifter (lash adjuster) was the problem I would just change the one. I like using a half a quart of marvels mystery oil to each oil change.
@@martinbuilt Took the words right out of my head Martin. I'd go with the Oil Trick first.
Awesome, thanks guys.
I don’t know which one unfortunately as it is infrequent and typically when I’m headed to work.
I think I will try the MMO trick. I got the truck at about 50K soon idea how it was maintained for the first part of its life. I noticed it initially and it was less as time went on. I try to change oil every 3K miles but it can sometime be 4-5K. Need to keep better track.
Lifter replacement - add to To-Do list along with timing belt and water pump on old Pathfinder. Lol
@@darrenwidas2473 It's always something
Sometimes you have a lifer that just hangs up at startup or is slow to build pressure and frees itself during the warm up period. Could be the problem, Marvel Mystery Oil was introduced to me by an uncle who fought in World War 2 and has now passed but it's known for freeing up sticky lifers. He used it in every engine he owned lawn mowers to old V8 Engines. He was the old school version of Martin lol.
Martin.. This happen to my 4.7 RAM, 2 cylinders.. Can I simply change the cylinder head and timing chain set or is the entire motor toast??
Yeah just replace the cylinder head and if you like yeah go ahead and change the timing chain set as well.
Hey Martin, you mention how if you have a lifter ticking, you shouldn't just wait around to fix it. If you've got lifters ticking only on startup and goes away after a couple of minutes, what would you recommend I do? Thanks!
You may want to try a court Marvel's Mystery Oil or Rislone on your next Oil Change, I've had this do wonders on a Dodge 440 that I had years ago. And I am currently using it on my 4.7
@@martinbuilt Will do. Thank you!
Bad design. ?
Will a lash adjuster always tick before it decides to fail?
I would think so, unless the oil supply was suddenly block off.
Does this happen while driving or more prone to this at start up while some lifters have been sitting compressed
I would think this is more prone to happen during start up.
I just changed the lifters on my 4.7L and one is loose (rocker fell off) I put in new lifters and that same valve rocker is super loose. Can you tell me how to tighten?
make sure that the valve spring is not broken. The valve seat may have partially fallen.
@@martinbuilt the spring visually looks good. 7 out of 8 valves are good on the passenger side it's the last one in the back on cylinder 8. Was getting a misfire and the rocker arm was floating around in there. Doesn't look to have damaged anything but it's lose to the point you can push the rocker arm back in my hand and it wobbles around on there. Probably will fall again if I just close everything up
@@SeanDIY, you may what to pull that rocker and lifter, start the engine just long enough to make sure there is oil pressure to that lifter galley.
@@martinbuilt thank you. If there is oil that comes into that space then it's a good thing? I saw someone who is selling what is called "rocker locks" that claim to prevent the rockers from coming out. Could that be something that is worth looking at?
Hi Martin, I need your advice. I have a Mitsubishi Raider (AKA Dakota) 06 3.7L V6 and It has 195k on it. It run like a champ. Now, is it worth to replace timing chain and lifters? I'm big fan of yours, keep up the good work.
If you're really good about changing your oil and using a high quality oil like a synthetic I think I would just leave the timing chain and lifters alone for another 25000 miles.
I know this is a little older vid. My 06 dakota 4.7 has a tick for abt 30 seconds to maybe a minute on cold start. After that you can hardly hear the engine running. I'm just paranoid cuz this is the newest vehicle I've ever bought lol. And I need it to go to drill for the guard every month (420 miles each way). Do I need to replace these ASAP, or do I have a little time to spare? Sorry that was long af.
I would try out some Marvel's mystery oil on your next oil change add half a quart. And if that does not fix it yes I would replace the lifters (Lash Adjuster) on at least that 1 cylinder head.
@@martinbuilt right on will do. I really appreciate the reply. I know chevy's inside and out. Mopar in new to me. But I'm really enjoying the vids and how Mopar is set up. Subscribed forsure🤘🤘Thanks again!!
How much will it cost to repair something like this?
If you take it to a shop I would imagine somewhere around 1500 plus. If you did it yourself and used a cylinder head is a cylinder head from a pic-a- part and only replace the head gasket and head bolts you could probably do it for 300 to $400
Can these lifters seizing cause engine to lock up
I'm gonna say no, but if your engine seized. I wonder if a valve seat dropped, that could happen.
@@martinbuilt it’s crazy I drove it for about 35-40 minutes it ran normal no lights on dash no loss of power, I parked came out 45 minutes later and it’s locked I took starter off and valve covers but nothing is jumping out at me
Hi martin i have a wj h.o 4.7 and would like to know which aftermarket top quality brand lash adjusters i should use?
Thankyou mate.
Sealed Power Hydraulic Lifters 99-07 Mopar 4.7L V8 www.3rdstrikeperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=792
Thankyou buddy ill get onto those lifters. Thanks for your super quick reply.
I love what you do ive learnt so much from you
Thanks mate
@@martinbuilt sorry to bother you again mate those lifters i bought, would you believe they are made in china. Sealed power ht-2271. What do you think about that ? China has a bad reputation i know but do you think it will be alright.
Hard to find anything that isn't made there. It'll be okay go ahead and install them.
@@martinbuilt 😉 thanks again will do have a great day
The parts that you listed are they the updated parts better than stock?
The latch gestures that I have Amazon links to are most likely Chinese built. Not too many companies make better ones than OEM
@@martinbuilt Thank you I was looking at meling
What is the fix for these rocker arms falling off?
It is interesting that the Ford 4.6 used has the exact same lifters and the design of the cylinder heads are very similar but yet the Ford never has a problem with rocker arms falling off. You could try running the 05 and later rocker arms they changed the design slightly to increase oil pressure
Will replacing the head and cam fix the damage caused?
Yes, it would. I saw a 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.7 HO that only had 113,000 miles that had a similar situation if it would have been my Jeep I would have repaired it.
You may spend the value of the whole jeep fixing it.
Any recommendations on lifters? Where to get them?
I don't have any experience with other brands of hydraulic lash adjusters (lifters) other than the solid ones that I have been running. I personal have never had any hydraulics go bad. I would not consider any of the very inexpensive chine's ones.
What Ddid you find in this trip to the yard?
I was after a wire harness. Going to do a wire tuck on the left side under the hood. All the wires that run along the left inner fender well. I going to make it all disappear for the most part.
Great video thank you so much Mark mangano dependable auto wartburg tennessee
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.
Just happened to me
Sorry to hear that did it damage the cylinder head or Cam shaft?
@@martinbuilt Cam shaft looks ok the head is toast hopefully when I take the head off I don't find anything else
Did you find a 242hd?
Haven't even had a chance to go look yet. I need to clone myself. I could get a lot more done.
@@martinbuilt wish I lived closer I'd be stoked to help!
@@DANEMSPRINGER That would be awesome!
Just stay away from anything Chrysler/GM other than the old 4.0 Jeep’s. My dads Ram rusted out just sitting there, his smaller dodge pickup needed 3 rear ends replaced, Stepmoms minivan would always be in the shop .. I remember her back in 98’ taking us to high school and the idler pulley exploded. My GMC Sierra is rusting badly, my wife’s 2 year old Acadia has had two blind side sensors go out (covered under warranty $2000 a pop), tranny is slipping, transmission shift points are way off, rides like shit, I could go on. It’s all garbage.. get a Toyota and don’t look back.
Can’t leave out Ford.. my wife’s 13’ Explorer had issue with the AC from day one (other than that it was a good SUV), my work truck with 23k miles on it blew a rod bearing. That vehicle was a company truck and was running Royal Purple oil and propane for fuel. Took them a month to order a new engine.. in the meantime they blamed it on the Oil and the Propane and didn’t want to warranty. But.. they signed the fleet papers and knew what our company was using. I can’t trust the big 3 anymore.
So the 2005 and up have better rocker arms?
I like the small hole and they direct the oil where it is needed. I did a similar thing with the Ford Y-block by placing a restrictor in the gallery just before the rocker assembly your able to redirect more oil to the bottom end. The only downside is they weigh 4.5 grams more.
Martin do you know if they changed the lifters too in 2005?
I believe they were all the same until 08 and I do know of a subscriber that is running the 08 lifters with the 08 cams
through dzlfreek sheesh I need to proof read better lol
thank you for subscribing!