Diagnosing and Repairing Common Chrysler/Jeep 4.7 V8 Valve Train Failure
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- čas přidán 24. 03. 2022
- Diagnosing and repairing a common valve train issue on the Chrysler 4.7 liter V8 found in several models of Dodge, Jeep, and Chrysler vehicles. This WJ (2001 Grand Cherokee) had a severe misfire and audible engine knock and was repaired for just 6 bucks.
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Valve seat failure is usually an issue caused by improper maintenance of the cooling system resulting in some sort of an overheat issue. When you get the head warm enough it releases the valve seat. The concept of high production number cylinder heads that have to have pressed in hardened valve seats in aluminum heads is also something that occasionally can rare it's ugly head. As for the valve train. The biggest problem with the valve train in these vehicles that have a hydraulic valve lash adjustment is the fact that because there's not a lot of oil flow through there it can get plugged up and cease to work properly. And occasional oil change which means about a week before you do your oil change when you're about a quart low on oil you put a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in it and run it for a week to make sure that everything inside that engine is as clean as it can be, works wonders for keeping the hydraulic valve lash adjusters operating properly.
Overheating is what causes seat failures
very good video. you speak clearly, its well edited, its logically organized. you've obviously taken some time to put it together. thanks much!!!
great video, i was very leary when i my son bought a durango with the 4.7l, but after we learned more of it, i am very impressed with this engine, (chrysler used it for more than 10 years), the biggest problem i think is people not changing oil enough and using cheap aftermarket parts
I just wanna let you know that you helped me find the issue.. frozen valve lifter
Thanks!!
I had an 05 ram 1500 with a 4.7L v8. I ran 5w30 synthetic oil and did 7500 mile oil changes. It was trouble free for the 100k miles I've owned it. Never had sludge or gunk. Was actually a very grear running truck. I had the 6spd manual with 4wd and 3.55 gearing.
Same exact issue, on a jeep liberty 3.7 L. Here’s the best part, I bought the jeep for $1.
The previous owners mechanic told him it needed a whole new motor. And he was going to just take the jeep to the junkyard.
I’m going to change out the rest of all the lifters . Just so that this nightmare doesn’t happen to me. And possibly grenade the rest of the motor. If I’m driving down the freeway.
Thanks again for your awesome video !!!!!
It's always the passenger side lmfao... I've learned just get used to getting to that valve cover. Martin does a great vid on it.
Valve lash adjusters (lifters) have an internal spring holding things in place when oil pressure is at zero when parked. These springs fracture & fail, allowing too much clearance and rocker will fall out on start-up .... not always but eventually. Replace the valve lash adjusters (lifters) and you are golden.
Seats on the other hand are more related to overtemp of heads & cooling issues. Keep it cool & this also is not a problem.
Cheers
Now that Mama’s happy. Trail plug time.
Thanks, Robbie. 👍🏼💪🏼🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
i have a 2000 grand cherokee limited and haven't done anything with it in years (7/8?). just sitting on the side and pretty sure it's the lifters and just haven't opened it up. now considering turning it into an overlander as well since the interior and body is fine but just have to get it running.
I have an '09 Dodge Ram 1500 with 310,000 miles. I've used nothing but full synthetic oil since new with absolutely zero engine problems. But now my lifters are really ticking. I'm debating about replacing them and also doing a timing chain job, or just selling it to some high school kid as a project and getting myself something different.
Thanks for the video. I'm about to have to dive into my valve train to diagnose a tick. I'm assuming lifter failure of some sort.
Thanks for the information 😎👍
This is a fantastic video. I've always wanted a good explanation of valvetrain issues on these motors.
The 3.7 also kicks those rocker arms most times on the passenger side my fix was sticking a washer inside the hole where the lifter goes I don’t remember the size I use maybe a 1/4 inch ss washer but any washer will work hopes this helps
You got really lucky, I've seen these wipe out the head or cam or both usually when the rocker pops off and jams up somewhere. I think there's also a weak lifter boss on the early heads? I've never owned a 4.7 just worked on them. I know there's ways to fix the issues by updating like you said and I think newer heads fix the weak lifter boss or that may just be from the rockers falling off and breaking them. Either way you got super lucky I'd replace the rest very soon and update those rockers and maybe replace the heads with newer castings I'm pretty sure that's a thing i think ive done it. There's tons of these in the wrecking yards so engine parts are dirt cheap I'd figure out exactly what year heads are best and snag some heads and HO top end stuff from the wrecking yard and get it all updated. I think with the updated parts and regular oil changes with good oil these engines can last a while they are also a pretty peppy engine I drove a stick shift Dakota with a hopped up 4.7 and it hauled ass and slayed the tires it revs out very well.
awesome. I totally called it lol.. usually they spit rockers after siting for extended periods, or when it is super cold out. I'm going to be swapping a 3.7 into my ZJ coming probably next summer.
Yep. Thanks for your help. Thing runs mint now
@@MuddyBeards4X4 no worries. next thing I'd suggest is to get a good quality radiator cap, make sure the water pump is solid too. leading cause of valve issues on these is coolant neglect. it's a sweet rig though, I sorta regret sacrificing my wj for parts for the zj, but I can always get another.
Call, check it out tomorrow and I hope that’s the problem give you more updates thanks
Nice job Robby.I probably would have replaced all the lifters and updated the rocker arms too.Then changed the oil to a good full synthetic.That is what I did on my 2003 4.7L.
Ya I plan on doing the same. I want to do ho cams and replace all the rockers and lifters then
@@MuddyBeards4X4 DO you have any oil loss? I have a 00 4.7 that I would love to do valve stem seals lifters and rockers. I've got a valve stem seal problem on 1 or 2 holes
This thing has ran great since I "fixed" it. No overheating, no further valve train problems, and no oil consumption. That being said I will probably be going the route you are eventually and changing out the whole valve train with new stuff
@@MuddyBeards4X4 ran synthetic in mine and it burned it all off within a few hundred miles. Switched to a synthetic blend and run stp high mileage oil treatment with zinc every oil change, it last a lot longer but it’s still burning a little. 167k miles on my 02 overland
@@MuddyBeards4X408 cams are better than HO.
How come you took so much off of the engine to remove the valve cover? Another issue seen with the 4.7 is the cam chain tensioners, throwing a crank or cam positioning error randomly. Sounds scary to tackle yourself at home, but actually, it isn't all that difficult to do and the parts are not that expensive, less than $200 for kit and about 5-8 hours of labor. It took me 8 hours, as I was 68 at the time and retired Navy, so I had to stop a bunch of times for a cup of coffee and then to drain the coffee, heck I even beat my Lab on marking my spot that day.
Ticking in my 4.7 changing valve covers hope it’s as easy as yours wish me luck
My 4.7 currently has 340K mi. I replaced the lifters after one seized at 315K and ejected a rocker. Oil changes are at 7,500 mi, running full synthetic. While in there, I replaced all the valve stem seals too. Those tend to make the engine smoke after they wear down. The most important thing is to use good quality oil and keep up with the oil level. Dirty oil is 1000x better than low oil. At 7.5K, the oil is barely dark.
i would never wait that long for oil changes, but at 340K, i guess i could be wrong!
I am an original owner at 225K, oil change every 6K or less. I was planning to replace the adjusters as preventative maintenance. Maybe gain back any lost valve lift. Good to know I am not necessarily on barrowed time.
Good video.
Awesome. Glad you didn't tease us with a part 2.
Part 2 will be upgrading all the valve train. I will be looking for an ho motor to swipe the cams and stuff off of.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 cool deal. Some guys would have ended the video before seeing it start.
If the valve and the rocker arm aren't moving, what is making the knocking noise?
Glad to see more unibody keep content! Cough.....xj?....... Cough😉
Haha the XJ will be the priority now. I need to get it done first summer time
Glad to hear y'all put out quality content and can't wait to see the wj build.
Hopefully that’s all I have to deal with my engine the seller told my the truck would need a new engine because it has a knocking sound. All I found was a dropped rocker
Pulling the EFI fuse or fuel pump relay is one of the easiest ways to kill fuel in lieu of disconnecting the fuel pump
well that is the problem, better check the lash adjuster lifter. Yes the small hole rockers are best they spray oil right on the roller. Better check the cam timing chains. While you have the valve cover off.
I’ve done a full engine rebuild, big thing is running the correct oil ( Rotella ) and orange antifreeze. Must take your time in venting all air out of engine by opening vent and radiator cap start engine, letting it run to get all air out of engine. I did mine took over 45 minute adding new orange fluid while venting. Then just stop engine place cap on and place vent cap back in place. Drive some miles 25-45 miles go home let it cool over nite. Next morning always check oil before running engine. Do another venting process, open a cool radiator cap take out vent screw, start engine run it while checking for bubbles at venting hole let it run 30-40 minutes checking to get all air out of engine. It’s a bad design for coolant system where engine is higher than radiator. So proper venting of any air will keep your engine living well for ya.
These 4.7 V8 aren’t bad engine people say they are but I believe that if you do your proper maintenance they can last I’ve got one with 215k on it mine is a 2000 grand Cherokee limited
I removed rock cover and looked at arms and lifters.they are still together
I replaced lifters, rocker arms and still sound like a rotary. How can I fix this if anybody can help will be appreciated
I've had a couple of 4.7s go well past 200k, but I change the oil at 3500 to prevent sludge buildup.
The 4.7 is an inferior engine
@DanielJohnson-ec8rk They don't have the reputation for longevity that the 4.0 has. But they make a lot more power than the 4.0, and get 25% or more better mpg.
04 ram changed lifters still got tapping sounds like ots comeing from bell houseing
My 4.7 drove fine to where I was going no dummy lights I parked came out 45 minutes later and it is locked up
Exactly the same thing happened to me I replaced all my lifters and now she purrs
If anyone can help me on this .would be great still running like a Subaru
Oooh, that lifter should move LOL, well I just found my problem, thank you@
Where are you located? I’m in Atlanta and I have a 05 jeep grand Cherokee limited 4.7 V8 and I’m pretty sure I’m having this same issue.. I would pay you to do mine
So I have a 01 wj with a 4.0 inline 6, is this problem common for the inline 6 motors as well?? It's knocking out from what appears to be the top of the engine, and its running rough too.
4.0 inline 6 is not the same.
I have the same problem with my 2003 jeep grand Cherokee and it sounds Subaru
I have a 2006 dodge ram 1500. Maybe you can help me with the issue on my truck. So I replaced the camshaft position sensor and it failed after 5 miles driving it and replaced it again and so it happens again, also ticking noise after the truck is at normal temperature, oil pressure gauge keeps fluctuating too. So what can be the problem. Can a bad rocker or lifter cause the sensor to go bad?
I have found that when dealing with Mopar electronics it's imperative to use oem sensors. Parts store cps sensors never work well
what happens is the exhaust valve partially sticks and rocker arm jumps off it will do it again. to correct it you need to a valve job to clean up everything. i have worked on many of them. the other thing is you could have a bad lifter
Actually overhead cam engines dont have lifters. Its technically called a hydraulic valve lash adjuster.
@@ashtonmariefranklin725 yes I know that but most common people don't know what relate to a lash adjuster the basic difference is a lifter goes up and down a lash adjuster doesn't move it just uses oil pressure to keep adjustment correct the same thing a lifter does and they also keep a small amount of preload and dampening
Did you have a check engine light indicating a misfire on the affected cylinder?
It didn't have any light which I thought was odd. It dawned on me that the dash light was burned out. Turns out it was but I didn't check till after the repair 🤦
Great video! Does it smoke or burn oil? I’ve got a 2002 Overland and it smokes when coming to a stop or in reverse. No knocking and it runs smooth.
Your valve seals are bad or the the valves are worn. How many miles are on the vehicle?
Mine does the same thing How much does it cost to replace vavle seals ?
Spit the rocker because the valve seat dropped on you.... No push back from valve = no tension to hold rocker in place. Seen this happen twice now...
I agree with you that can happen and was what I thought happened. however if you watch the video I seem to have gotten lucky and the lifter failed. Jeep has good compression and has run great nearly 2 years later. If it was the seat that would not be the case.
I have a 4.7 L that doesn't want to crank, I can only turn it a little bit by hand (so it's not seized as far as I can tell). Could an issue with the valvetrain prevent the engine from turning easily? It's one of those "ran when parked" scenarios where it stopped working between key offs
Sounds like a dropped valve seat. The seat drops while the engine is hot and the vale is open, and the next time you try to start it it hits the valve- that valve will be bent.
Did it overheat?
@@philkep2762 I finally got around to cracking it open, it was way worse lol, piston and connecting rod turned into metallic aquarium gravel lol
Ouch! Then it didn’t “stop working between key offs”, it grenaded last time it ran-
Valve guides drop out to. Sludge and lack of oil changes made a lot of failures. All those holes on lifters ect are small and clog up.
do all 4.7L have that diesel sound knocking noise on start up there at then end of the vid? Mine has it, usually quiets down when it warms up
I'd check for an exhaust manifold leak, once they warm up the noise subsides.
I have a 2007 Ram with the 4.7l at 240k miles and it sounds like a diesel engine on startup then quiets down as oil fills everything up. The guy I bought the truck from said it sounded like that when he bought it at 7k miles. Runs like a champ, never had any issues other than normal stuff like sensors.
@@Jethu262 I would check for an exhaust manifold leak, the symptoms can be as you described. If that isn't the problem I would seriously consider removing the valve covers and inspecting the valve train before you lose a rocker arm. Good luck!
So my 06 wk is good ,just change oil normally lol
I upgraded my cams lifters and rockers and the intake to the 08 stuff.and my jeep runs a lote better. Getting ready to put headers and good cats and exhaust on it.
I plan on doing that as well. I need to hit the junk yard to find an ho motor
Where are you getting headers from? The Doug headers have been out of stock everywhere online except on scam websites. I definitely have been searching for about two years with no luck.
@@jtbuilds9176 I've had them forever and just now getting ready to finish somethings up on it .before the new lift gets belt .
I definitely need a set with the y pipe! I have a 02 WJ overland that I got for $200 about 5 years ago. Has the 4.7H.O. which had a failed valve guide and all exhaust valve seals driver side were bad on reman heads from AutoZone. Drove it up until January of this year smoking it's ass off and bought a brand new engine for $4,000 from jeep parts Depot out of California which was a huge mistake. The engine blew 5 pistons and rods in 20 miles and the vendor told me to just drive it more that it was because of lifter issues and they needed to pump up. I kept my old engine instead of giving it up as a core and I am glad I did because they refused to respond about the engine or warranty and bought new heads for my old engine and she has been back on the road. If you ever need parts please listen to me and NEVER USE JEEP PARTS DEPOT OUT OF SUN VALLEY CALIFORNIA! They will screw you over and never respond once the engine is sold.
I do plan on re-rebuilding my engine and using scat rods and scat pistons and solid lifters and possibly a screw style supercharger with an ATI balancer. I also plan on balancing the engine as well. Headers and y pipe seem to be the only parts I cannot score.
@@jtbuilds9176 look up Martin Builds on CZcams.he shows a set from some other place .
This sounds just like my truck after the water pump blew and it very momentarily began to overheat
Hey did the repair last? Same issue i had on two heads (both passenger side) turned out to be valve seat on the two of them
Still runs great
@@MuddyBeards4X4 lucky wish that was just my issue. Good job m!
Win win!
Great luck. I was hoping for the same, but… I went to install the rocker arm and it just slides in with no pry bar or screwdriver. I can basically pop it off with my fingers very easily. Any idea why that is the case?
Sounds unfortunately like a valve seat failure. Does the valve stem look lower then the others? The valve probably dropped
@@MuddyBeards4X4 well i it didn’t look like it but I can’t find another why it would be like that. I assume it’s dropped but wasn’t really noticeable until I pulled off another rocker arm and could tell the spring was expanded farther out than the original one. So does that mean a new head as long as there is no damage to the piston and or cylinder? Or a motor? Thanks for the reply
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I should also add that I wasn’t getting any compression on that cylinder! Zero. So in your opinion seeing that the jeep is basically in perfect shape, paint is perfect, would you just replace the engine? Thanks again
Hopefully it would be just a head. You can buy reman heads for pretty cheap. The job isn't too tough but you definitely want to get the speciality tool to wedge the timing chain. That way you don't have to take off the entire timing cover
Zero compression definitely confirms valve seat. I would put a new set of heads on it. Entire 4.7's are super expensive, but rebuilt heads are not too bad
Are these jeeps worth buying I have a chance to buy an 03 overland for 800 with 170k on it but engine apart
Yes. I got my 03 h.o and fixed a valve seat and a new radiator. Did a full tuneup, all fluids and it has been a daily foe a few years now. Gas mileage on the freeway is about 21 22 at 70 mph on a 500 mile trip. Around town is not the best but there are worst. I got mine for 600. Was surprised how good offroad performance is.
you had to remove the cam and the cam chain in order to get the rocker in place again amiright? No?
No you can pop them off with a pry bar and back on
No you do not have to remove the cam or chain to replace the rockers and lifters check out a video on CZcams by martin buit
I was wondering what you found out about that engine after the last video. looks like you lucked out. nice score on that WJ
Totally lucked out. Common problem with these engines it seems
Where's Milo?
I also have a problem with my WG. He makes this weird sound
m.czcams.com/video/bZzymnYLOmA/video.html
Any ides what it might be?
worst engine in this years