1996 EZGO TXT, 36 Volt -Dead Batteries, Not Moving
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- čas přidán 2. 08. 2019
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Thank you for helping me figure out what was wrong with my cart. I have been working on it for 2 day. It took me 15 minutes to trouble shoot it after seeing your video.
Thank you for helping us figure out our cart very informative video!!
Thank you soooooo much. My cart was down for months because that red wire was broke. Thanks again !
Extremely helpful. Thank you!
Nice job, learned something new! Thanks Kevin!
Thanks for the video. That fixed mine. Much appreciated
Great video Kevin, that’s what what wrong with my dads, Thanks
Thank u very helpful it worked 4 me good detail thanks so much saved me money
Thanks for this video saved me a lot of time
The “reed valve” is on the two-stroke version of Ez Go 👍
Wonderful video I appreciate it! solved my problem!
Glad it helped!
I work at a shop that services this ez go's and we simply just switch the batteries out! But never knew that might be the culprit to a lot of this dead batt issues.... Good tip I will check them out next time before switching the whole battery set
Yikes, that's a very expensive thing to do!
When you switch out the batteries does the cart work then?
I have a 97 ezgo and when I hit the gas pedal the soloinoid clicks but it doesn’t move. any suggestions?
Hey thank you body, i could fix my gold car today thanks to your vid. I work as a maintenance and it would take for the company maybe more than a months to fix it. Thanks again sr
Glad I could help
Do you have a video on how you “Jump out” and explain the purpose.
Great videos, glad i found your channel.
The same thing happened to my daughter's 99 txt.
I made mistake of pulling her about 2 blocks back to house, without switching to tow. When we stopped the electric motor was smoking. I'll make a jumper to see if the read switch is issue and if my motor is toast
The reed switch has nothing to do with the motor. If you towed it in Run mode, you probably cooked the motor.
What was your jumper connected to other than the pos. side of the battery?
Thanks!!! Got it
Thanks for the video. I changed to Lithium batteries and don't use this receptacle. I was going to bypass this interlock, took the receptacle apart, someone had already removed the switch and wired directly to the terminal. But good to know.
Grate video helped me so much
Glad it helped
Thanks, I needed to get rid of that switch so I could charge while driving, small rescue generator on the back makes it a hybrid cart.
Great video! Do you have a link to the schematic that you had in the beginning of the video?
I have new batt's, new motor and controller. The cart works when on jackstands but not when it's on the ground. Any ideas? Thank you for your time.
Had scheduled repairs, but after viewing the video I found a broken wire on the reed switch. Repaired the wire and working fine.
Hi. I have this same cart. The forward and reverse switch doesn't look like other 96 TXT models. Do you happen to know where I can find that part number or where to order one? Thanks.
Hola tengo el problema que se activa la Solenoide y se desconecta y no o arranca. También realice la conexión directa de interruptor magnético y no arranca.
Como saber si el controlador y la solenoide esta en fallo. Gracias Slds
Thank you so much for the informative video!. Question, if the reed switch has failed, would that prevent the charger from charging?. Thanks.
The only purpose of the reed switch is to disable the cart so you can't drive away with the charger plugged in.
I have a 2000 TXT that once you flip the switch tow Maintenace to run it won't stop beeping, any suggestions?
My cart would do nothing after adding new batteries, it had been setting in shed over a year with no usage. Replaced solonoid and now I will get solonoid clicking, but nothing else. Checked voltage as you did in your video, and voltage coming out of charger box was 18-19 volts. Tried to jump other end and went directly to battery, but that unfortunately didn’t help, still nothing but clicking. Any ideas? Any comments much appeciated! Thanks, Jim
Thanks for sharing this video! I had no idea that that switch was in there.
I have a 2001 EZGO txt 36 volts. I went ride today. The Battery's are fully charged. I cut my ride short because my gulf cart started to feel like the Battery's were not changed, it wasn't going the top speed that it normally goes. My battery meter showed almost 100% full. So I went home witch is about 1 mile. I checked the temperature on the motor with my infrared thermometer and the highest reading was 117 degrees F. It's a nice cool day today. My questions are how do I know if my electric motor is going bad, and what is a normal temperature for the motor on a cool day after riding for only about 20 to 25 minutes. Thanks Sidney
Hi - thanks for video. I understand why you don’t recommend a work around. But could you explain what it would be? I have this cart with same charger and reed switch, and am converting to lithium to lithium battery, so don’t need this charger port any more…but having same problem as described. So need to bypass reed switch…. Sounds like connect the red and white together and connect both to 48v battery + ?
You ever figure out what to do with the reed switch wire when you converted? I was told connect it to battery positve but I have no idea where the other end of the reed switch connects to
Great video - thank you. Who knew, a reed valve, errr, switch.
Great info. On my 97 ez go all the lights just quit headlights taillights stop lights any ideas
Probably a fuse or broken wire.
I HAVE SAME PROBLEM. WISH ME LUCK. THANK U SIR. TEXAS.
THANKS GREAT NEW INFO FOR ME. CHARGER NAME FROM LOW TO ?
I bought an ezgo cart with no batteries. How can I tell if it's 36v or 48v?
Can you tell me what the reed switch red/white wire is supposed to connect to when it heads over to the solenoid? Mine is cut and I don’t know what to hook it to???
I'm trying to figure that out too!
Do you know now?
i have the same 96 txt. I did a bypass on the reed switch and already got a new solenoid and Batteries. All I get is just clicking from solenoid when i hit the pedal, what do you recommend I do next?
You will need to test for voltage with a multi meter. If the solenoid is clicking and the cart is not moving, it could be anything from the F/R switch, electric motor, controller failure, broken wire, dead cell in a battery. You can google 36V EZGO Diagnostic for the correct test procedure.
Could you test the resistance of the reed switch, instead of using a jumper wire?
You could. The reed switch is just that, a switch. It will either be open or closed. There will be some level of resistance due to the small wire size, but this is irrelevant. If the switch is open, whether or not the charger is plugged in, bypassing it will confirm the operation of the controller.
How do you check to see if controller is working or not
@@joewarren3n1 it will go somewhat faster if controller is working (LOL)
Hello I have a EZ GO 48V NO START
AND THE MECHANICS LEFT THE CABLE OUT THE SWITCH AND DE F AND R. BOTTON
How bout a 2002 ezgo PDS 36 volt that was running perfectly fine and now won’t go but about 2 mph. Battery’s are a year old and fully charged, charger is good. Don’t really know where to begin troubleshooting. Just got the cart about 3 months ago and don’t know anything about electric golf carts. Any advice would be appreciated.
On flat ground, put the cart in forward with the parking brake off. Try to push it. It should hold itself back and beep at you. If it doesn't' then its the speed sensor on the electric motor.
Kevin's Golf Carts it defiantly free rolls, The cart never had any back up alarms/beeps so couldn’t listen for that. I replaced the speed sensor and the magnet, solenoid, used a volt meter to test battery’s, controller, motor, throttle sensor, and got 12 volts on all the battery’s and 36 volts everywhere else. Not real sure how to test the solenoid, it’s brand new and not real sure about the readings. I read where the small post should be tested in ohms 🤷🏻♂️. I’m completely stumped and really don’t know what else to check for.
Thank you fixed my problem .
good viddee
do you have a link for that battery charger mentioned in this video
Here is a link to the chargers: www.shop.fsip.biz/en/product/chargers-modules-chargeplus/chargeplus-universal-battery-charger--24-CBHF2-XXXX
I suggest giving them a call to order one. The folks at FSIP are awesome and super helpful. They can sort out which model and pigtail you need for your cart.
Hey Mate, so I have new batteries and they are read 36v with the meter and 6v when checked separately. the issue is its dying quickly and getting slower...any help would be appreciated
A 36 volt battery pack should read near 40 volts when fully charged, 38.6 volts roughly after being charged. Each 6 volt battery should be about 6.8 volts. Also, you must let it completely charge once started. Stopping the charge midway will damage the batteries. There is a break-in period for new batteries. You will have to download the break-in procedure for your battery manufacturer.
seem to be confusion about little reed switch and how it works one side conn.s to little red wire to controller the other sid conn.s white battery lead this switch is normally closed while you riding around but when you plug in the charger the metal inside the charge plug effects the reed switch magneticly makes it go open the little red wire is disconect at this point till charger is unpluged so you can go till plug is removed
The reed switch prevents the cart from driving while charging.
Ok makes sense
You can bypass the reed switch and then get rid of the charger receptacle. Now you can direct wire one of the new lightweight chargers (with a timer if you want ) and now you have a On Board charger you just plug into the wall. You don't have to lug around a charger all the time
That is an option. If you don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on a new charger and rewiring, this is much faster and cheaper.
A new charger I’m talking about is about $50, $60 if you buy a 48 volt, converting your 36 v cart to 48 v. And if you don’t trust these chargers to shut off you can also purchase a timer
Plus the charger has the wiring
I wouldn't trust that herky jerky setup. I'd rather have a quality charger connected to my expensive battery pack and golf cart.
you dont need to get riid of the charger just conn little red wire to + side white wire same screw it just elminates the reed switch
If my reed switch is bad would that make the charger not work?
I changed my batterys with a different changer but it still won't run at all. Lights don't come on only the reverse alarm...
The reed switch is designed to disable the cart while charging. It has no bearing on the operation of the charger.
Mine is having the exact same problem did you ever fix yours
@@cameronbeavers7751 one of the batteries was reading that it was charged but it wasn't fully charged, causing it not to get a good connection.
I had a bad wire in the cart charger.
The white wire with the snap-on connector that leads to the red wire..... where does that red wire connect. Mine got cut and I can’t find the other end. :-(
Same here. Did you figure it out?
How to check Reid switch is good or bad. When Connectivity is ON means good!! Or Bad
When the charger is plugged in (there is a magnet in the plug), the reed switch should be open. When the charger is unplugged, the reed switch should be closed.
Good vid. I don’t think it applies to my 89 Marathon but I’ve heard about later models’ reed valves (dang it - switch, thats 2 stroke talk). Magnetic contacts? Seems primitive. Whatever works I guess it’s a nice safety feature at least. My point of contacting you is to ask about the aftermarket controllers for stock 36v. I’ve heard some claim it really beefed up their stock performance and they even over-tax their motors to the point of replacement. I don’t want to kill the thing but wouldn’t mind speeding it up a tad. The other common route I see is 48v conversions with new controllers, solenoids, motor, FNR switch, and of course the motor. They claim to get carts up to 25mph but you’re talking $1600 for just the parts not including the batteries.
A 36 volt system is only going to get you so much power. There are physical and electrical limitations that will prevent you gaining beyond that. Stock motors are not very strong, even with aftermarket controllers. You will kill the motor if you push too much power through it. The stock equipment is designed to run 300-350 Amps. You can get a stock replacement aftermarket controller to give you a little more flexibility, but you won't get a whole lot. If you are looking to do a big jump in torque and/or speed, a 48 volt conversion or replacing the cart would be the way to go.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts when i clean my battery cables about twice a yr i get more power
Why doesn't any show the settings on the multimeter and which contacts they touch with the multimeter?
To measure volts, you set it to volts. To measure continuity, set it to ohms. You should know how to use a multimeter before trying to use one. Every multimeter is different but function the same so you will have to read the documentation that comes with your particular meter.
I've bypassed and fixed countless EZGO TXT carts with a bad reed switch. Easy fix..
My 96 36-volt cart has a continuous shrill even after the switch cuts off. What could cause this?
I'm not understanding your question.
back up off your wife and call 911
Hey Kevin, I dont have any charger on the cart I am restoring so I am going to buy the entire reed switch housing charger deal and harness. My cart is a 2003 TXT 36 v, Would you be kind enough to tell me where all the wires go? This I believe is the last thing I need to add to the cart.
They just connect to the battery terminals of the two batteries that are at the end of the connecting series but will be two different batteries. I hope this makes sense.
It looks like mine was rigged with no reed switch, how would i test that?
Justin Fohs -State Police- take it to a shop
Dude!!!!! Your ARM in the way!
Sorry about that.
I have a 36volt txt a 2002 it has brand new batteries a 6" lift and 23" tires I never drove this cart prior to the lift or tires it was bought as a project. my question is now that its up and running this thing will hardly get out of its own way it has almost no power? I know a 36 is not as good as a 48 my question is what should I be able to count on from this cart? I don't care about top speed I want to know about pulling capabilities such as a jetski and trailer around the yard moving things etc... and also range how long in-between charges? just some base idea so I know if there is a issue and if so where should I look and how to find issue. like I mentioned it measured 3/4 charge last night and with thte pedal pushed to the floor it would barely move
36 volt carts just don't have the power like 48 volt carts do. TXTs are weak stock so adding larger tires and wheels changes the geometry of the drivetrain. You need to have good batteries to get any useful power out of them. If they are not fully charged and in good shape, you will have no power and it will be a very frustrating experience. When charging, you need to let the charger run a full cycle. Stopping it while charging is not letting it complete a charge and is not good for the batteries. It can take up to 24 hours to complete a charge cycle, depending on depth of discharge.
Kevin's Golf Carts
The batteries are brand new. The charger seems to be working it turns on and runs and reads on average of 20amp when charging I haven’t timed it but I would say a charge cycle usually runs 8-12 hours. Another thing I didn’t mention is sometime when putting the pedal to the floor the cart will move forward slowly a couple miles a hour but if I take my foot all the way off and then floor it again it will take off and run much faster I was wondering if it could be a position sensor on the pedal or a speed sensor on the motor? Lastly you didn’t answer my question should my cart be able to pull my jetski and trailer around the yard etc...
Kevin's Golf Carts thanks for the reply I was curious. Do you have any knowledge with the speed sensor that mounts To the end of the motor or the throttle sensor that’s near the pedal? Any chance it can be either of these causing my issue? I hate just part swapping! I have brand new batteries and I’m installing new 2gauge battery cables
My batteries are fully charged. When I turn on the run switch. The ezgo cart wants to go as in go forward as ( take off even though the key switch is off
Turn the switch to tow nothing. Back to run and the motor starts running but doesnt. Lunges forward
The forward reverse switch is in neutral
No one has ever had this problem too???
curious as to what u charged for this fix??
Minimum 1 hour for test and diagnosis, $100
you can clean the green with a little baking soda and water and an old brush ----ps dont do this on a concrete floor move it ouside it will stain concrete
I don’t have a reed valve on mine just a glass light
that is the reed switch its not a light in side that tiny glass is 2 conntacts when plug in the charge the metal magnetly effect the reed switch goes open on tiny red wire so you can not drive off with the charger pluged in ??????(LOL)
Where does the white/red wire connect?
I think it powers the controller
9 times out of ten it a corroded battery cable you can by pass readswitch withno prob just remove switch key to pevent any one trying to go on cart whleits charging to bypass read switch just connect little red wire to big battery + cable white thighten tight
cant you just use a reeder meter?
The positive post of the first battery is overheating. And if I connect it to charge it will start sparks and stop charging any ideas??
ths is a common problem on battery cables take that cable buff the both ends clean if you dont have a buffer use baking soda and water that will desolve that green crud you can clean each cable that way that willstop over heating battery cables
Hi I have A 96 Ezgo electric cart H299 model.
lately it has ben running really slow and draining the batteries to fast?
I've taken the batteries to be checked and they are all good
what step should I take next ?
H299 is the model code? You have a 1999, not a 96. Check your battery cables for dirty or lose connections. If the wires are hot after driving, replace them.
Did u ever find out what your problem was i have the same issue
What if it clicks but doesn't move?
It could be any number of things. This isn't enough information to provide any useful info Causes could be anything from a bad solenoid, bad motor, brushes could be wore out, motor controller could have failed, bad wire connection. You need to check each wire and make sure the connections are clean and tight. You will need a multimeter to test things. There are a few forums on testing. A quick search will find these procedures. Its too much to type here.
You should’ve put the camera on the other side so we can see what’s going on
Hindsight is 20/20
Where is the tow and run switch on ezgo
Older ones don't have one. If it does have one, it will be on the black box on the passenger side.
Solenoid clickS but no movement.Batteries full
Why is it important that the cart not run when it's being charged? If you put the cart on jacks and on a charge, is it still a bad idea to run the cart? Thanks for any help.
Why would you want to run the cart while charging? The charger will be overloaded trying to charge the batteries and provide power to the motor controller.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts Thanks Kevin. I have an old EZ-Go and I don't think it has a controller unless the controller is inside the motor. Another question if you have time to respond: Is the Micro Switch under the solenoid in an EZ-Go necessary if I take out the Reverse Buzzer, which this Micro Switch seems to be hooked up to?
@@Kevinsgolfcarts One other question: Is it ok to charge the six 6v batteries by themselves without being hooked up to the motor and other devices in the battery compartment? I mean, is it ok to take the batteries out, put them on a workbench and charge them with the 36v charger?
All carts need some way to control the current to the motor, whether its with resistors or a solid sate (electronic) motor controller. They are not built into the motors. Depending on the year, your cart may be what's called a "resistor cart". This is a "mechanical" motor controller. Resistor carts put 100% load on the batteries, regardless of how far the accellerator pedal is pressed. You can leave the switch and just disconnect the reverse buzzer. Its been a long time since I've had the old resistor carts in my shop, so I'm a bit fuzzy on their exact layout.
You can remove the batteries from the cart to charge them.
you can leave the reed switch off just conn red wire to big white wire ----ps try not to drive off with charger pluged in(lol)
I don't agree with disconnecting the reed switch as it is to prevent the cart operating while charging. It can be bypassed for diagnosing issues but should be replaced if it has failed.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts it would take an idiot to try to drive off with that power plug sticking between his legs my reed swithch was missing when i bought the cart 8 yrs i mearly stated you dont need it to make it work i hear they are expensive
I've had a few come in that had the reed disconnected by a previous owner and their kid drove off with the charger plugged in. They are expensive for what they are and it could of been done better but it does happen.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts they have a key that can be removed to keep any one from driving it while its being charged
Yes I know.
You don't gave any what?? Nuts lol