The Most Common Furnace Filter Issue And How To Fix It
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- čas přidán 31. 05. 2024
- Filter Lock Magnetic Filter Seal: amzn.to/3LlEOk1
One of the most common items a homeowner will need to change/maintain is your furnace filter. The problem is you might think you are doing everything correctly but if you have the common issue of a missing filter slot cover/seal you could have a major problem impacting the air quality in your home. I will walk you through furnace filter basics and also show you how to quickly solve this common problem.
Parts Used
Filter Lock Magnetic Filter Seal: amzn.to/3LlEOk1
3M Filtrete 1085 (MERV 11): amzn.to/3JqzqLA
3M Filtrete 1900 (MERV 13): amzn.to/32CgzMs
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Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:42 How Often Should You Change Your Furnace Filter
1:42 How To Correctly Install A Furnace Filter
2:07 What Type Of Furnace Filter Should You Use
4:38 Common Problem With Furnace Filter Installations
6:27 Why You Need To Correct This Issue
7:58 How To Fix This Issue With A Magentic Filter Seal
9:14 Demostration of The Magentic Filter Seal - Jak na to + styl
Universal HVAC guy here, for some 20 years now I've been using painters tape and I keep a small sharpie near my filters. The painters tape is great for sealing up gaps and doesn't leave a residue and I also keep a strip of painters tape on the front panel and write down the date of every filter change. Painters tape is very cheap and removable. Also, when you remove the painters tape it pulls out my filter when I lift the tape off.
Going to try this. Thanks!!
Neat idea, I will try this, thank you for sharing.
But it's harder to add a link and earn a profit from.
Put some tape on it. For the price of the magnetic sealer, you could buy a whole roll of Duct Tape. WTF!
I always used duct tape or painters tape…. Good point though overall….
The main purpose of the filter is to reduce dust from clogging the evaporator coil (if present). If you want to clean, filter and disinfect the air for YOUR benefit, you should install a HEPA filter and ultra-violet light. I always suggest homeowners get filters that are no more restrictive than MERV 8 ($5/each) and change them every month.
I agree with all of these points
excellent video - one thing that is different from what I was told by my hvac person who does the routine inspections is that he said the higher the merv, the hard the unit has to work to pull the air through, and he said that the recommended level was 8 (for my unit) instead of 13 for best efficiency and longevity of the system. but when I thought about it it made sense - the strongest filter and the smallest holes and would let hardly anything through and would take more effort to pull the air though it. like if you put a sheet of glass there it would block 100% or everything, including air, and nothing there would let all the air through and block nothing, so there should be a balance I suppose.
As a retired HVAC industry professional, I wholeheartedly agree and congratulate you on your excellent, accurate video.
There are other issues as well, but are beyond the scope of your video.
Proper air duct sizing has become a lost skill in the trade. The return air duct should be sized by the volume of air AT a LOWER velocity so the air filter can catch the airborne particulates. Like a bullet, the higher the velocity, the easier it penetrates or passes thru an obstacle, in this scenario, a filter.
Secondly, the square throat on the return duct (where you see the sheet metal makes a 90 degree turn towards to furnace) is a big problem as it creates great turbulence/ pressure drop there and thru actually cuts down the amount of of air moving.
Example: if you have ever removed a filter and noticed a part of it was totally clean while the other half or three quarters was very dirty THERE IS the PROOF the little to no air was moving thru the filter at that point.
That SQUARE THROAT is the reason.
Google proper air duct fittings design and see.
Thank you for reading this.
I used blue painters tape in the wide width. Cheap, efficient and I mark the date with a black sharpie.
This is a wonderfully done video! He is clear and concise in his explanation and gives not the slightest indication of talking 'down' to the viewer. He seems an authentic and kind individual and I am inclined to check out his other videos...Bravo!
Thanks for taking the time to make me aware of the leaks and scheduling 👍🏽
Thank you! Our home's filter covers were both mangled by the previous owners and this solution is perfect.
Two great tips in one video. Didn't know you could schedule furnace filter through Amazon, and I'm definitely buying the Filter Lock.
Finally a video on an open slot where the filter goes. I kept looking for a door or face to open to look for a filter but instead there's that open slot in the back where a filter SHOULD be but is not. After living here more than 2 years apparently WITHOUT a filter in place. The a/c has always worked well but the unbelievable dust in my house, especially the bedroom was too much. . Thanks to this video I may be able to fix my situation
Thank you for recording and posting this valuable educational video.
So that's why the furnace installers tried to fashion a cover for this gap with extra sheet metal! I had no idea it was so critical. Ordered the covers, thank you!
Oh man, first time homeowner (and AC owner) and this video was a life saver. It's the most visually clear and detailed explanation of something so aggravating simple! Big thanks.
don't listen to it. those high merv filters are bad for hvac systems unless you have a thick filter more than 1in. honestly idk why they even sell them.
If your buying on line there is a way to drop the cost of filters buy buying them in a box of ten or twenty at a time and it about half's the cost, set the change of the filter on your phone.
Great idea
I appreciate the link for the seal. This has bothered me on my furnace. It is also worth noting that the opening may be on both sides. (like mine). I have always pushed the filter against the furnace side, but that was not a solution.
Having an AC evaporator makes this more crucial as it acts as a non accessible filter. Mine was plugged solid when I bought my house. Excellent video
Thank you for actually explaining the entire situation instead of the other videos I watched that only made me more confused! Im subscribing right now n❤
Thanks for the explanation about the arrow.
Just what I needed, bought on the spot. Thanks!
This is good information for sealing a certain part of the HVAC system. I went a step further and used mastic on the seams of the HVAC unit, metal ducting and inside the vents in each room. Additionally using expanding foam to seal around each vent and using a metal foam delivering gun to minimize expansion. Cost me less than $70 and if you can paint, you can apply mastic. I use a 5 inch merve 8 filter, and my Goodman HVAC is coming up to 24 years old with no issues with annual servicing.
I run an average stand alone air cleaner in my bedroom and one in the main area of our house, 24/7, and it costs pennies per day. Dust and airborne particles are virtually non existant in our house, even when we open up the windows during the day in fair weather, which is about 8 months out of the year in Southern California.
I like taking a bit of air from the basement and running it through the filter and A/C. I cut a 4" hole in the return at the basement floor, and taped a piece of filter material and a piece of carbon filter over the hole. My basement air improved exponentially, and I only noticed a tiny bit of basement smell the first day or two. Now my basement is so much dryer, and it doesn't smell.
Thank you! I have this exact same issue on our new to us home
Great video, just replaced mine and feel 100% better already.
Thanks so much for this video. I formed a cover from a slightly-damaged magnetic return-vent cover I had laying around. Works great!
Nice!
My heating and air guy recommended I use the lower Mervyn filter with my unit. I don't recall the specifics other than better air flow for my setup. There is a gap, and sometimes I hear the filter bang when the air is sucked through. I have a dusty old basement even though I do keep an air purifier running 24/7. Anyway, I am ordering this air lock! Thanks for this tip.
This was a great video and exactly what I needed! Thank you sir.
Super clear and useful info, thanks so much!
Pretty much any tape that can cover the gap will do the same thing. Other thing about this video is the frame on the furnace side of the filter is bent. If it were straight, the negative pressure caused by the blower will suck the filter against the furnace and pretty much seal the gap and cause all the air entering to go through the filter. So, even with your plastic and magnet solution, all that's going to happen behind the plastic is air will now flow around the filter, in the space between the plastic and the filter, and enter through the damaged frame.
Best video on this subject. Thank you very much.
I use an Aprilaire whole home filtration system on 2 houses. Merv 13, filter is changed annually. Much better than those thin filters.
It also causes a negative pressure in the furnace room. You can end up with a back draft on any other gas appliances in the room.
Good point, thanks Scott.
Heh-heh, I adding to my reply that this could be an issue before I read your far more succinctly written comment.
Thank you so much for this valuable information!
Thanks for posting this informative video. I've been using a good quality duct tape for years with no problems.
Great information to share!
Thought - since you will be removing the seals to change the filter I would suggest marking the one you cut with a sharpie or even electrical tape
good info, unfortunately my furnace has a weird offset so I can't use this filter seal. however, I was able to fashion my own homemade seal using some scrap paneling wood that I had saved and duct tape! I also stapled some old towel material on the inside and it effectively sealed off the draft! I also changed the filter and noticed a lot more dust/debris on the edge where the draft was sucking in the basement air, so thanks for the vid which gave me the ideas! 👍👍
I almost didn’t watch this. I’m so glad I did. Solid info and I didn’t care it was 10minutes.
Great tips! It's amazing how many homeowners don't have a clue. My neighbor didn't change her filter for 4 years.😳 I almost couldn't get the filter out. They didn't know you have to descale the tankless hot water heater as well. It's people like that, that don't maintain their cars also. Just subscribed, looking forward to seeing your other content.
We have a gas water heater that is making a lot of noise when using hot water, just learned it should be drain yearly but the manual comes with the system doesn’t even mention it.
And that's the reason for the after market market.
Thank you for posting this helpful video
I like that brick and a support for the furnace
I guess every HVAC installer does this differently but this is the first time I have seen a filter with out a cover over it. Where I am, the filters are retained with in a door or cover to prevent leakage.
I've lived in 6 houses and none of the furnaces have had doors on the filter slots...
@@brettzeigerbacher2314 Interesting. I am on house 5, never seen this before. Maybe older home construction is this way. But the product to correct it is cool and something worth noting if I run across such a thing in my area.
@@cgore4 Thats normal in apts. that only have 1 central air return, maybe 2? My house has 1 or 2 return vents in every room. The central return is to save money on the system installation, not a great idea IMO. The best is to have a return air vent on the bottom and the top of the walls. Shut the bottom vent when the A/C is running so you send the warm air at the top to the furnace. Shut the top vent and open the bottom when the heat runs so you send the cooler air at ground level to the furnace.
Ordered. Thanks for the tip. I knew that gap was an issue but I didn't know a cheap way to fix it. For filters, I have to order a custom size from a filter company.
Happy to help!
Good product review and demonstration.
With older systems the merv 8+ filters can burn up your ac system because of the lack of airflow, especially if you only have one air return. It is best to stick with a lower merv rating for better airflow.
DITTO, see my comment above
Even if it doesn't cause damage to the blower motor, it significantly reduces the heating efficiency.
Those high Merv rated filters slow the airflow to a crawl.
The actual reason for this filter is to protect the blower motor from large particles, not to clean the air. Marketing BS.
My buddy who works TRANE said the exact thing. Get the thinner ones and replace more often
Without simple static measurements…..Everyone here is guessing😎
Aye lad well done me bhoy! I Chang ours 30 days or less depending on heavy useage. Love your wisdom lad keep it up
I sold filters among other things for 8 years and I always told folks basic is the way to go.The filter is not for you it's for the unit.Less carpet in your home more often you should change it ,you would be surprised how much dust it holds.Also tape around the frame of filter to help it seal,and if you're like me with a 20×40 return and have to use 2 filters seal the center.I change mine every 30days,and have a purifier in every room of house due to having pets.
Thank you. I do need this product.
Great product affordable solution, thanks for info.
Great video, as usual. You do a good job with the level of explanation - not too technical, but technical enough to understand and get the job done. Keep them coming! Happy New Year!
Thanks Bruce, Happy New Year to you as well 🍾
I have that exact HVAC model! When the blower comes on, the filter is pulled tightly against the frame, so the "gap" is only on the return side, thus all air goes thru the filter element!
I figured this out about a year ago because we kept getting dust every other day. I was told if I didn't figure out a solution I'd be the one dusting. I tried some 2" wide masking tape and thankfully it worked. It really does help keep the dust in the basement. Thanks for another great tip.
66lwmorgan: Thanks. I was wondering about just using duct tape, though masking tape sounds much better re not leaving a bunch of glue residue.
I have one of those customer made things (now I know what it's actually doing), but it doesn't fit that well and is kind of a hassle, so I will look at better solutions like that filter seal or wide masking tape.
@@rogergeyer9851 Thanks Roger, it definitely makes a difference, at least at my place. Have a good week and stay safe.
@@rogergeyer98513m Cold weather foil tape from Lowe’s or Home Depot. No residue and perfect seal, easy to reuse or replace.
With 60 year old ductwork and a 20 year old furnace we've used the cheap filters and change them every month. Never go over a MERV 5 unless you need a sterile environment. The higher the MERV rating the harder your fan will have to work. That's what I was told! 👍
Every HVAC guy I have talked to lately would say no, no, no to anything much over Merv 5. If you need to filter the air that badly... buy an air filtering system don't suffocate your HVAC. The suction from the blower fan really should pull the filter tight to the front of the box. If you have a gap on the furnace side once that blower comes on... then I would suspect that you have a bigger problem at work... bad filter box framing.. or a really bad blower fan. To be honest, as long as you are not pulling excessive warm (during the warmer months) or very dirty air into the system around the box, I think it's pretty much a non-issue. But the filter lock is a nice inexpensive solution to either provide peace of mind and\or solve some issues which might occur in a small amount of scenarios.
Totally agree, I tried one of those Merv13, really restricted the flow, caused the AC unit to not cool properly... I believe the standard recommendation is to go with a media filter unit, those 3" ones, that go up to higher Merv's they do not restrict the flow, and have 10x the amount of material, and last much longer. The cost of the filter itself is lower (per year) and will pay for the upgrade..
His advice was just terrible NOT a MERV 13!!!! No!!! Speaking as an hvac service tech. So many problems in the short and long run.
My advice would be MERV 5 for old homes/furnaces and MERV 8 for almost everything else.
I used to use those higher $$ filters but found that they lead to premature plenum warping/cracking as the air doesn’t flow nearly as well through the furnace. Put your hand against the ducting above the heat exchanger when the furnace is running… with a high merv filter you’ll find it to be extremely warm.., even hot… move to a merv 8 (or less) and you’ll see how much cooler the plenum is as the air is moving more freely. I also noticed how much better the air moves around my home with a merv 8, no more cool spots, furnace is on less and less condensation on the windows. I’ll preach to anyone about not using filters above merv 8.
Another method that I use is to install an adhesive backed half round weatherstrip on the duct side of the opening, to take up the excess space and force the filter against the furnace. At some point one might expect the furnace ductwork folks to reduce the size of the filter opening to fit the 3/4" filters instead of 1"". They haven't sold true 1" filters in many moons.
Ok Scott your amazing... Keep up the good work..
Wow, I learned a lot, thank you!
Good video and great tip about the filter seal; just placed my order!
Sucker, painter's tape works just as well and way cheaper.
Interesting. Thank you!
Thank you very much for this useful information.
You are welcome
nice product ! good job very easy !
Thank you. Got the answer I was looking for @2:05. Then watched the rest.
So funny watching this video. I just bought 2 of these 4 weeks ago for my daughter and son’s houses. They have been working equally as well for them. Previously I used painters tape on them. Luckily my own furnace came with a filter door. Mine is also 4”’s thick and filters better and for a longer period of time. While the filter is more expensive I can double or triple the lifespan.
Wow! That's what I've been using even though I have a door on the filter compartment. The door is such a poor fit that I run painter's tape to solve any gap problem also. Will consider changing out to the Filter Lock instead!
If you use a high Merv rated filter it will reduce more than you know. It will make the blower work harder and reduce the life of the motor. It also reduces the amount of airflow going to the vents. If you want zero air flow and a motor burn out....by all means use this advice. The open slot issue can be fixed by using magnetic register covers cut to size.
My system makes a bang now when shutting down after doing this.
Blessed with a 6inch thick filter on my HVAC setup
very clear video, using this
I don't think that poll question was worded right. For example, a person who replaces his filter every 6 months might have recently replaced it when he said he last replaced it less than 3 months ago. The correct question should ask how often you replace the filter, not how long it's been since you last replaced it.
Also.... those responding to poll are people who tend to be more aware and concerned about this topic (or they wouldn't be searching for answers on CZcams) and therefore more likely to change filters more often than average person.
The magnetic seal is a great idea. However, if you are cheap you can use aluminum duct tape or if you don't want to buy that you can use the ever popular duct tape. Throw it away and replace it when you change the filter.
I made sure I got a 4 inch filter housing installed when I had my furnace replaced. 16x25x4 and run a MERV 11. The 4 inch depth adds a ton of filter media and I change it every 6 months. I do like that filter lock product for sure. I don't need it, but it's cheaper then replacing the duct work.
I just found out one of the HVAC techs I had out MONTHS ago installed my heavy duty filter BACKWARD... and it's been one of the hottest summers ever. What a joke. Hope my system is okay. Finally fixed that issue, hoping it will now run a lot better! Lucky nothing broke, from what I can tell, but that could not have been good. Aprilaire 510 filter too...
I only use up to a merv 8 and change them every month, 2 months at the very most. 👍 One of our properties filter becomes a dark grey after a month, used too high a merv value and it damaged the motor by cutting off the flow. A $10 filter cost me $300 motor replacement!
I use a strip of duct tape, completely seals, you use like 8 ft worth a year and a roll lasts years.. super cheap. Have my house 20 yrs now and I'm still on the first $2 roll lol
Hahaha, not bad. Thanks for the feedback 👍
I do that too
For some reason the page keeps giving me errors when trying to post.
I'm going to use duct tape too: I have two rolls sitting around doing nothing and it will take very little effort to peel off then re-apply a strip or two of tape four times a year. I also have a recurring calendar item in my email program that works well for me.
Also, this product in Canada is much more expensive than I can account for considering the difference in the dollar plus duties and taxes: CAD$33 vice USD$9.99. Duct tape it is.
I also use duct tape and only tape the furnace side to the filter, as I want a little bit of return air from the basement floor to leak into the ductwork side of the filter.
Since that's not near a flue, I would use hvac foil tape. Or some FRP edge banding shaped like a "U" glue it on then slide a piece of sheet metal in for easy access and removal.
Thanks I have the same problem
Thank you that was a great trip
These and all the EHR videos here are so informative and well-done that I even watch the ones I'm not interested in :)
Hey Eric, thanks for all the support 👍
I use the less expensive filter but treat it with some spray endust, that or if available with some static spray that way I leave the ar flow unrestricted and also trap more dirt/dust particles.
Hi I live in TX where we have Heat Pumps, which I am sure I do not have to explain. My house if fairly new less then 6 years old. The furnace has a 4" filter which I change out every 6 months. You taught me something today that I wish was marked on the furnaces which way the arrow on the filter points. After seeing this part of the video I ran upstairs to check my furnace but thank my higher power I had going in the right direction. I wish there was some more information about the Merv standards, I understand the increase in the numbering system and you explain it very well thanks. So should we check with the furnace manufactor to see what is recommended for there systems as far as the merv number should be??? Thanks again I do learn a lot from your videos you provide a great service..
I guess I am fortunate. When we upgraded our HVAC system 35 yrs ago, we had an electronic air cleaner added to the system. It still works very well even after two system upgrades.
Great video, thanks for posting. I was changing my 1-inch wide filters every quarter. But when I changed over to the 2-inch wide filters, I was noticing there was no appreciable debris accumulation on them after 3 months... go figure. So now they get changed bi-annually instead. Also, I stick with Merv 8. Less resistance than Merv 12. It seems inefficient to use your heater/ AC unit as an air purifier. A stand-alone unit would be a much better solution for indoor air pollution.
Great video and well made points. However there are a couple issues I see with some of the solutions/recommendations.
The magnetic seal appears to resolve the problem. However, there is no insurance that air is not moving around the inlet to the outlet of the filter under the cover. Air may be now totally enclosed in the ductwork but can be bypassing the filter under the magnetic cover. The same thing can happen if a metal cover is made as suggested, unless something like a foam seal is part of that process. I agree with "cronoevo" here, blue tape is a really good solution to resolve the leaky filter slot.
I also have to suggest you stay away from MERV 10 or higher filter when a 1" filter is involved. It's true, the extra perforations dramatically improve the air flow on a higher MERV filter, for a 1" filter, unfortunately, it's not enough. If you take static air pressure readings across these high performance 1" filters, they still create a considerable restriction to the air flow. Originally filters on HVAC equipment were installed to protect the equipment, to insure the heat exchanger and AC coils stayed clean to maintain equipment efficiency. Now many people also want it to improve indoor air quality. So the filters job has changed functions from just removing dirt to also removing viruses and bacteria from the air stream. This additional filtering burden results in reduced air flows, which results in reduced heat exchanged by both the furnace and AC. When this happens, utility bills rise and it's also possible for equipment life to be shortened. I would not recommend any higher than a MERV 7 or 8 filter for a 1" furnace filter.
There is a solution that can be done that dramatically can improve indoor air quality and prevent air restriction. For those who are extreme DIYers, or it may require an HVAC professional, consider replacing the existing 1" filter slot with a 4" or larger filter. This allows a filter with a significantly large surface area to be installed with a good filtration rating of a MERV 14 or 15, and little filter restriction.
To take this to an even higher level, in the example of the ductwork shown in this filter, much of the airflow will tend to hit the bottom of the filter as air enters because of the 90 degree trurn it makes just before entering the filter. A high filtration filter will actually get loaded with particulate at the bottom and very little at the top. It's very difficult for the air to change directions to make it to the top of the filter once the bottom of the filter gets plugged off. This actually does happen as the filter is continued in service, and as a result, restricts air flow. Vanes can be added in the vertical ductwork, in the turn ahead of the filter, to divide the airflow into 2, 3, or more segments where the vanes have a curved radius to turn the vertical airflow into a horizontal segmented airflow. This divides the airflow evenly across the filter. Of course, this would take some skills for a DIYer or may require hiring a HVAC professional to make/install. This type of installation, using a quality high MERV filter, can result in annual filter changes instead of quarterly or monthly changes.
For those with simple polyester or fiberglass filters that have very little restriction to the airflow, you can spray them with "End Dust" spray, used for furniture dusting, to enhance their ability to capture dust. These type of filters are very poor at doing their job, and as a result, should be changed monthly to protect the furnace and/or AC system they are installed to protect.
We have a return vent near the floor with two dogs in the house in a dusty environment. I check it weekly and replace it an average of every three weeks, but sometimes it only lasts a week - dust and hair.
I didn't know there was a spot for a filter at the furnace. Gotta go check mines now.
Great video!Can you do information about thermostats and sump pumps
again, great info. as always
Thanks Bobby 👍
Awesome. Thanks
ThankYou so very very much…
Let me give you another piece of advice. A 1" thick filter is completely inadequate for the task, because if you use filtrete it's too restrictive and it's gonna kill your furnace, and if you use fiberglass you're not really protecting your evaporator from getting dirty, so what you need to do is have your HVAC contractor modify that filter slot to accept a minimum of a 2" thick filter, which has a greater filtration area, a lower face velocity, and less restriction to the flow of air. Ultimately this saves you money in operational costs and extends the life of your equipment.
Wait until you price them not to mention availability. My Carrier unit came from the factory with the 2 inch option. The price and lack of choices turned me away from them.
@@tumbleweedking5668 In that case you're not looking in the right places, because 99.9% of the equipment that I service on commercial rooftops uses 2" filters, and trust me, they are not paying a lot of money to have me pick up those filters and put them in.
What I need is a video hot to convert my one inch filter frame to accept 2" filters.
I liked your presentation. A few things to keep in mind! Furnace filters are not designed to clean the air in our houses. Furnace filters are for keeping the hvac components clean! Also, you should never use any filter better then the cheapies without having a static duct pressure test done. Any filter better then a merv 4 is too restrictive for most hvac systems.
Above 10 .
I think it depends on the filter. The MERV, the size etc. The 1 inch, seems you should change them more often. I now have a 5 inch, and it says 6-12 months depending on air conditions. I use MERV 10-11 as more than that, seems too restriction on my system.
I also have a filter box, which is a box separate from the duck and the furnace which houses the filter. Not sure If i have this because I have the 5 inch filter. When I got my new furnace, the furnace company suggested i install a filter box, but when the did the home inspection, noticed I had one so removed it from the quote and reused my current one.
I'm in a similar boat. Had a new system installed a couple of years ago, and it came with the Aprilaire filter system (got roped into it when I got the system). To be perfectly honest, I miss changing my filter monthly, primarily due to the exhorbitant cost of ther Aprilaire filters (I use a MERV 11 and their about 50 bucks a piece). I run the house fan all the time to keep air circulated but that comes at a price as the filers WON'T last the 6 months they state on the box (more like 4). I also feel that even at a MERV 11, the system works a little too hard to bring air through because of the 4 inch thick pleated filter. If I could turn back the clock, I'd opt for something that allowed me to use a universal filter and NOT one that is proprietary, like the Aprilaire (no generics for this baby).
Change the filter by usage and air flow drop rather than by months.
With 1" filters, I'd expect way more filter changes are needed per year (4+ possibly). They simply have the least surface area, least filtration and clog much faster. Modern/newer HVAC systems now use filters as wide as 4" that provide much more surface area and better filtration. Many allow much higher MERV rated filters to be used, trapping smaller particles and increasing air purification. I have a MERV 13 rated 4" in my newer HVAC system and have noticed a huge decrease in dust around the house, changing it twice per year. Taping all the duct joints you can, with aluminum backed tape, is also a good thing to do... including the seams at the furnace (you can see some gaps in your video).
^^ this. Media cabinet FTW. High MERV and low restriction. Plus only change filter 2x / yr.
Yeah, we have 5” filters in our system. Makes replacing a PIA if trying to find a good deal. And “subscribing” wasn’t an option last time I ordered. Not because they didn’t have it as an option, but because the filters disappeared on Amazon the next time we went to order more. lol
MERV 13 rated 4" filters are not cheap, that is for sure. I think mine run about $45 to $50 each. I also noted that my filters constantly change on Amazon as well and the old purchase links do not work... they are the same make and manufacturer (Aprilaire 413).
Excellent idea. Thanks for homeowner help.
Have a filter service indicator installed, worth every penny. I have had customers not install filters and destroy the entire system, unbalanced blower, burned up motor and it’s housing, and super clog the exchanger…, and those who don’t check filters and find the filter sucked into the unit due to load….
genius! Thanks!
I have a Nest thermostat. It will tell me when I need to change my filter based on HVAC usage in hours rather than the 3 months calendar. That way, if your system runs often, you will need to change it more often. However, if you don’t use your system that much, you can wait past the 3 months before changing the filter. The Nest will actually email you your monthly usage, how it compares to previous periods and how it compares to your Nest neighborhood. BTW, my furnace has that metal cover, blocking the filter side opening.
Nest is my favorite Smart Thermostat for sure 👍
That's pretty common for smart thermostats at this point, but definitely a good point. In Texas we only use our furnace a handful of days in the winter and we go much longer without a filter change. IN the summer we have to change it much more frequently. Usually once a month.
Most residential applications don't need 4 filter changes per year simply because the furnace/AC does not run all year round with the exception of those who run their fans continuously for air circulation. For those who must use expensive high dollar filters such as HEPA, consider using a cheaper pre-filter in front of the expensive filter. You'll have to install another filter track to accommodate the pre-filter but it will save you $$$ in the long run. In the commercial HVAC industry where fans tend run 24/7, the pre-filter is changed every 3 months while the more expensive lower micron second filter is changed, once a year.
I use that first filter, the 3M Basic flat non-pleated version. Works for me & doesn't kill my wallet. I don't smoke nor do I have pets, & we live in a mostly dry low-humidity area year-round, thus less mold, so that's at least 3 less things to filter out. If I start to cough & sneeze, which I haven't yet, then sure, I will test a more pricey filter.
05/04/24
Thank you.
You bet!
LOL love this setup, all the air can just go in front side and bypass filter. Another big issue I am seeing is zero sealing or checking of leaks. I recently looked at a new install and the return was leaking at every joint, it was a joke. If you don't carry a smoke pen as part of your tool kit shame on you, every installer should be smoke checking post install and then sealing as needed.
Time and time again I see people miss the most important step, checking for air leaks, not hard and very important.
My question is about ventilation
I live in a basement suite where the furnace is in a closeted space on our floor. The closet the furnace is in has tons of vent slits on all 4 closet panels. I have a door that opens to a stairwell leading to an unfinished sub-basement. After opening the door, but before you go down the stairs, the wall to the right is unfinished to the furnaces closet room.
The sub basement has a very musty smell, air feels heavy to breath, and there's visual (what i'm assuming) mold on quite a few 2x10 floor joists. There was previous water leaks before I moved in I've now learned. I'm concerned of the air quality coming from the sub basement because if we don't keep windows open and hepa units running in our suite, we start suffering allergy-like symptoms. Cough, headache, throat irritation, sneezing, wheezing, chest tightness/itchy, watery eyes, and runny nose. Thank you for the time taken to read. Any insight to my situation is sooo so greatly appreciated.
1. Does the sub basement share air with our basement suite if there's no sign of mechanical exhaust to the outside down there? Could the air down there be affecting us 1 floor up even with the door closed?
2. What are the vents for on the furnace? Do these draw in air and if so, would it pull air up from the sub basement level since the adjoining wall is unfinished?
3. What are the vents for on the closet?
Ever go through winter without a furnace. I change mine every time my thermostat reminds me. I need to find the manual to verify air flow requirement though. I've been using the magnetic filter covers ever since I found out about them.
wish you had included permanent-type filters