Front-end Loader on a Lawn Tractor, What I Learned
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- I built a front-end loader using plans from PF Engineering, adapted for my Craftsman YS4500. If you have a similar project I hope you can watch this and have a slightly smoother build.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
You learned. You overcame all the to-be-expected snags. You did very well. Good job and thanks for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us.
Excellent Video on the build.
Having built several loaders you have just about touched on all the issues.
If someone is going to build a loader this is a good watch. 👍
Thank you for the upload, it is helpful in working up my game plan for building up a loader for my Kubota G1900.
All good insight and things to keep in mind when planning to build your own loader.
Thank you for sharing and good job on your build!
Thanks! Share yours if you build something, would love to see some others.
Hi, Thank you very much for making these videos. In 13 minutes you shared more information than I found in doing 50 hours of research. I did learn a lot in these 50 hours, but I doubt it will translate into something I can use when I build my system. I am lucky as I have a medium frame garden tractor that should hold all the gear without any issues. I already have an hydraulic system on it, but it's 3 gpm, and it wouldn't be enough to run a FEL and a backhoe. I have subscribed. Thank you for the valuable information.
Kudos on sticking it out and finishing the build.
Hey nice job and thanks for sharing.
I bought the PF plans as well. I'm looking to mount it on a Kubota G6200HST. Thank you so much for showing everyone some potential stumbling blocks.
Oh, so your Kubota already has the hydraulic system you can tie into right? That is quite a bit easier I'd guess. To me the fabricating bits were way easier than all the plumbing.
Excellent video!
Definitely recommend using an actual garden tractor just for the extra strength of the frame and a transaxle that will hold up to the weight and abuse. But overall I'm glad that this worked on a lawn tractor.
Yes Aaron ,no "Sense" in building on a "Rinky-Dinky" plateform.
This is a garden tractor. Yt/yts 3000 and down is riding mower yt/yts4000 up are garden tractors
Front axle components are much to light built for all the extra weight on the Lawn Mower chassis displayed
That is NOT A GARDEN TRACTOR regardless of what he or the manufacturer claims!
Only pain on garden tractors are they are expensive lol
Thank you for sharing this great information. I've been studying up on the topic of building a front loader. You're the first one I've seen to put a loader on a regular lawn mower, though! Pretty cool that you pulled it off.
Ha, I think that is because it's better to use a much heavier machine.
800 subscriber right here. Well done! I was thinking of doing this.
1st time viewer
Thanx for sharing your experience & knowledge
Ryan, Great job! We build Electric front end loaders for a living. Every once and a while I come across videos like this one that inspire people to tackle their own needs, and you have done just that. There are plenty of folks that want to do their own DIY projects and you have provided that which I think is awesome. Thanks again for sharing with the community. Best regards, Carlos CT Solutions.
Thanks. I had looked at Johnny buckets or various winch based solutions first, so there is certainly a place for electric options.
@@RyanShea You would be surprised with what electric can do. We built about 100 front end loaders this year and plan to double next year. our design is different because we have to mount to the snow blower brackets on the front of the tractor instead of mid mount, but that was the only way to not void the warranty. Either way with only 80# of counter weight on the X500 Deere models we can still lift 250# to 400# and it's a bolt on accessory that comes off in a few minutes to get back to mowing. Check out our "Little Green Monster bucket loaders". Johnny Bucket never answers the phone and you're lucky to get an email back so as an engineer and I own a fab shop, we designed our own that would at least lift to 4' unlike the JB. I just thought your post was really cool because I was no different that you 4 years ago when we built the first one and just wanted to find information and there was not much out there or they were some crazy builds that looked like someone was going to get hurt. Your video is inspiring for sure, and PF Engineering only gives you basic plans so great job working your way to the finish line, and posting something that can help so many others.
@@carlostejera8476 the hydraulics look wayyy too complicated. I'm going electric.
Thank You Very help full
Well I think you did a damn fine job, especially for having alot of firsts and learning experiences
Thanks. Always so much to learn. Hard to understand how folks figured things out before CZcams.
I've subscribed. Good work. From my experience I would suggest you try mounting your loader to a garden tractor with a foot controlled hydro transmission. Foot control would allow you ease into the pile of wood chips leaving your right hand to slowly lift boom and slowly roll bucket up all the while easing tractor forward with the foot control. It's quite fun and satisfying to get into the rhythm and get a lot more wood chips in your bucket each time. It good of you to reply to comments as often as you do.
Job well done! You learned a lot from this. The next build will be improved I'm sure, starting with a better machine (garden tractor) that's suited for loader work.
Yeah, I've been watching Craig's List to see if I can find an old Simplicity or Case or something. It's kinda fun to just push the limits, and if it breaks - so be it. For my use case I'm primarily moving wood chips, so lightweight stuff.
@@RyanShea Yea, might be good for a "Hawaiian Shaved Ice" stand or a Styrofoam mover. Your "rig" just doesen' t "qualify " for a TRACTOR--- It's a Riding lawnmower. Something is GOING to "SNAP" in Half & maybe kill somebody. Hope you know this Buddy. l would of almost donated a Wheelhorse ( garden-tractor) to the cause. Thanks for the great Vidio Sir and happy safe tractoring & fabricating.
this is Very Easy To Understand thks For Sharing wonder do ya Hav Plans for the Bracket on the Back to Mount the Frame thks again
If I had the money and energy I’d build a loader for my Toro 522xi in such a way that I can leave the mower deck on and mow.
Spring of 2020 there was 3 different front end loaders for sale for the Toro 5xi tractors like mine In Iowa Illinois and Wisconsin with asking prices between $1700 and $2700. Ugg! That’s more than the average asking price for the tractor itself.
Great build.Beware that At 7:06 that link belt Is placed wrong,tips of the links MUST point outwards,not inside.Else it will eat the tips resulting complete failure of the belt.
If you want to have an oil level guage for your tank you will need to drill a hole on the top and very bottom of your reservoir. weld on 2 elbows so there holes face each other. Then you will need hose fittings to screw into the elbows. Lastly you will need some clear hose/clamps to connect between the fittings. Make sure the clear hose can take some heat(Braided hose would work best). For size you wouldn't need anything bigger than 3/8".
Thank you.
Dude I loved both of your videos. You built a badass loader. I am very impressed and I want to encourage you to keep learning and modify the rig for your needs. You have more than enough skills to build an entire new frame and fit a stronger trans and front end. I can’t say e ought about your awesome videos. Don’t let these other self righteous d*ckhead comments on here get you down. You are a fecking legend! Subscribed!
Thanks so much. They are correct, it is not a proper tractor for implements or digging. I'm just using it for wood chips and some light snow. Fortunately it's relatively easy to hook this up to a new tractor if I ever go in that direction.
I have built three hydraulic FEL's and one electric. For the novice, the electric version is way easier. The weight is about 50% less than hydraulic and it is much easier to buy the needed parts. The electric ones are much more suited to the riding lawn mower class than hydraulic models. The tractor here should have used an electric version because they are limited to 300 lbs or less depending on the front spindles and the thickness of the frame. I use my electric version around my home to haul sand, mulch, and other things that are too large for me to haul by hand. My wife and I just laid four pallets of sod with it and it saved our lives and backs. I would drive up to the trailer with the sod in it and then place the bucket so that the sod rolls would just roll into the bucket without having to lift them. Once in the correct spot to lay it, I would lower the bucket and my wife would just roll one roll out and then unroll it in place. I spent $800 on the steel and electrics and $1200 for the three linear actuators. I got the high-speed ones that are as fast as hydraulics but they cost about $50 more per actuator. I am old and have back issues so I designed it to be removable without any really heavy pieces. My frame support stays on the tractor when the loader is off. To remove the loader I unplug the actuator's wires, take the two pivot pins out, and then pull the two pins on the actuators so that the bucket is all by itself with no extra weight. Then I lift the arms out of the vertical supports and tie them up vertically in my shed. The two vertical support posts fit into two, 2-inch trailer hitches that are welded to a 1x3x27 inch solid steel bar that is bolted to the lower frame. They both come out of the hitches and each one weighs no more than 30 pounds each. So the bucket is off and the two verticals are off and the only thing left is the bar with two short 2-inch hitches. BTW, the front support brace that goes to the two vertical posts also comes off with just pins and weighs only about 25 pounds. If I can help anyone with your electric project send me your info here. This builder did a great job with what he had and learned a lot of what not to do next time.
Wow, thanks for adding your knowledge and experience. Do you have links to pictures of your loader(s)?
@@RyanShea I have some pictures of the electric loader but I do not know how to send them to you except email or text.
Hello Ryan, I too am building a loader for in my case an early 70's John Deere 140. Not the ideal platform but it should work. I wanted to relate my experience with the PF Engineering plans, I found them to be a little short as well. Not that the gentleman who developed the plans can address every case but there are some areas that I think could use some improvement, like a revision of cost. While I could have done it cheaper I think It's worth presenting an example of a build with more mid grade components. I used welded Prince hydraulics 2.5" cylinders, a 10gpm vane pump rated for v-belt drive, made to length hoses and a valve block that can lift/curl lower/curl (joystick) and has a float feature. I knew I wanted these things from operating bigger machines. This adds significantly to the cost. I would not discourage anyone from building one of these or building it as cheaply as possible however I think some updated real world numbers should be addressed. Your build is awesome and I appreciate your point of view.
That's awesome - make a quick video about it. I'm sure people would be into that, especially talking about how to choose pumps, valves, cylinders.
@@RyanShea I guess I should. Haven’t done much youtube but might help someone out. It’s not quite complete yet, some more paint to do, hood/fender some odds and ends to clean up on the foot pedal mod and plumbing routing. Seems to work good tho, full bucket of pea stone no prob. I have a burned up 7.3 powerstroke in the backyard I’m gonna try and lift with it next time I’m home.
This is good for mulch.
Nice work Ryan! I was wondering if you would be willing to share the overall cost that you have into that front-end loader build? I've thought about making something like that for my old tractor, but I thought it might be better/cheaper to go with a larger tractor with a front-end loader equipped.
A used Kubota BX with a loader is probably north of $12k. I did not do careful accounting, but let's say I spent somewhere in the $2k-3k ballpark (ymmv, prices of everything are shooting up). This is of course apples to oranges, as something like that Kubota is a *much* more capable machine, 4x4 diesel, etc. For me, my goal is moving lots and lots of wood chips, so light weight, high volume - and I needed it to be a small machine to fit into a bunch of spots, around garden beds and through smaller gates.
There is an alternative to putting a complete hydraulic system on the mower. Get the hydraulic system off of a boat that operate the outboard motors "trim" system, they usually contain 2 rams, all of the S/S braided hydraulic lines and contrls and the system operates from a 12 volt stand alone hydraulic pump/reservoir and is no bigger than a shoe box. In most cases the rams are anywhere from 12 inches up to 2 ft...closed. I got the system off of a ski boat and it's rated for 600 lbs and again it's stand alone and only reqires 12 volt DC to run it which the mower already has. The system was somewhat taxing on my little mower battery so on the back of my mower I mounted the biggest battery that I could find and tied it into the mowers stator circuit after that I had no problems and the battery actually helped my counterbalance issue.... Just thought ide put this idea out there because putting an entire hydraulic system on a mower platform is do-able but a major PITA and can be overwhelming when trying to figure out where and how to mount a pump and all of that,
Thanks for the tip. Yeah, I actually have this mini truck with a 12v hydraulic dump bed which probably has some similarities. Northern Tool and others sell closed complete 12v hydraulic systems too.
That iron pipe is fine for the high side(good for 5k psi) but you have to use different elbows because while the pipe is good for 5k, elbows are only rated for 300 or so. I ran into the same thing on my build.
I'm just amazed you put that much work into building a front end loader and I must say looks like you done a good job. But you mounted it on a CRAFTSMAN lawn tractor. I've built 3 loaders for garden tractors over the past 10 years I always mount them on cub cadet wide frame garden tractors like 1450 149 the last one I built I mounted it on a cub cadet 1811. Those craftsman lawn tractors are no good. Craftsman did build a decent garden tractor years ago I believe In the 1990s. Do yourself a favor and buy a older heavy built garden tractor. There very affordable you can get cub cadet, ford, john Deere, even a Sears suburban.
Yep, old simplicity or case or international come up on Craig's list. If/when this breaks it's so cheap it doesn't matter. I actually want/need a small tractor for getting between garden beds. I also had a storage issue, but have since made a small lean-to shed.
It wasn't your fault, your tractor didn't really ever have a frame.....🤣 otherwise nice job on the vid and the loader.
I just used mine to clean up snow and ice from the drive . 1973 JD garden tractor home brew loader not PF though.
One last question. I seen your tractor has the motion controls fwd/bwd on the right side. Would you prefer a tractor with a foot control while using the bucket?
I am building one on a very similar husqvarna unit. Couple of questions, do you happen to remember or know where to point me to the thrust bearing you used on the steering? Secondly, how were you able to properly tension the link belt without any tensioner pulley? Thirdly, do you know the size pulley you have on your pump? Thanks in advance! I love your build!
Here are the thrust bearings I used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GFJLZSV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As with much of this build, I fumbled through it. Originally thought I'd need to craft up something with in idler pulley, but just started with the simplest thing first, directly connecting. Initially I had problems where the belt would slip under load - then I just removed links until it worked well. I realize an idler pulley would be better. I may not have much room. It was a bit of a puzzle making everything fit and I am already very close to steering drag links.
Nice job, typically you should have your return filter going to your tank. Then from your tank to the pump
Yeah, I was pretty much following the PF Engineering plans. The bigger problem is that I have some inappropriate piping on the pressure side. Plumbing was much more difficult for me (not being able to thread my own custom length pipes and hoses) to get things to fit - and trying to fillet weld around the elbow on the tank and end up without any leaks.
@@RyanShea you did a great job, I've been working with hydraulics on ships for 30 years and still learn new things all the time.
You did a great job. I do see one potential issue with your hydraulics, the filter should be on the return side. The filter is used to keep metal from contaminating the reservoir in case of pump or valve failure.
Plumbing was maybe the hardest for me. This was based on PF Engineering instructions. I was biting off a lot with this project... but this was like "baby's first hydraulic circuit".
Thanks for this video , I am going to start on my loader in March ,
Great job man! Sounds like u wouldnt do it again tho/reccomened it
Depends on what your goals are. My goals were to learn some things about hydraulics and end up with a machine I could move around wood chips and some snow with. I also didn't want to spend $15K on a Kubota or similar with a loader because it is too large for my property, expensive, and just plain overkill. This did accomplish *my* goals, but as many have pointed out this small little lawn tool ain't suited for digging really anything. As with all learning, the path is paved with mistakes, so that is what I was trying to share to help others wanting to build the same thing.
This is awesome... where did you find the double acting cylinders?
Not hard to find, Surplus Center, Northern Tool, Tractor Supply.
Классная техника 🤩🚜
Спасибо
Awesome build! I think a Johnny Bucket would work better for you
A Kubota BX 4x4 with loader and a backhoe would work better 😁. Johnny Bucket is cool (and smaller, which is good and bad), but this was about the build really. I have a retaining wall that's around 4ft high that I need to lift snow over on occasion. Mostly, I'm moving lots and lots of wood chips.
What size thrust bearing did you get for the wheel spindles?
ToToT 6 Sets Thrust Needle Roller... www.amazon.com/dp/B08GFJLZSV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
What size tires do you have on the front and were did you buy them?
I think I bought the wheels from surplus center. It was an experiment.
Nice work! You mentioned the transaxle being too weak. Is there a reason you feel it's too weak? Did it break?
Didn't break, but if it does I'll just replace it. This one is a smaller hydro-gear, and it's certainly not made for the 600-ish lbs I'm asking of it.
@@RyanShea have you researched what we could swap out with that's heavier duty?
@@DanielSloanMusic I think trying to upgrade the transaxle is too much turd polishing. Getting a used old proper heavy simplicity or case or international is probably how I'll do when this one breaks. I can make the loader work on there.
@@RyanShea Hard to beat the oldschool cub cadets for small loader work. Gearbox/rear end is ludicrously overbuilt.
@@nicklowe2686 Yeah, lots of options actually - the isavetractors.com guy has a lot of great videos. I am partial to the hydrostatic transaxle. I used to not have a place to store any larger tractor, but now I do... we'll see if this pops up on the priority list this winter.
Good video, although there’s a lot of compromises. Not sure how long the actual tractor will last given how light weight it is.
Fortunately, at least from a $$$ perspective it doesn't matter. The loader and hydraulic system will last, and if/when the tractor dies I can replace it. The tractor itself is worth maybe $350 at Craig's List prices. In fact, I have a spare already.
5:02 which u really dont want to 🤖dooooooouuuuuu🤖
Bad ass
Your rams for your bucket tilt is a little bit of an over kill 1 smaller ram in the middle would cut down on extra weight out front especially with Those front tires are way too small other than that looks pretty good
I was afraid and inexperienced, so I tried to follow the designs like a recipe. PF engineering now has a smaller design with a single cylinder in the middle like you say.
You mention no good way to know how much oil is in your tank, in my years of working on equipment this simplest method is a clear vertical hose attached to two elbows into the tank. Loved the video, thanks so much.
Hi Ryan How is that transmission holding up ( does it deel like its going to break?) I have a Hydro transmission and it feels like it wantes to break.
I have been on other projects lately, but the two biggest problems are not the transmission. I need to stiffen up the frame a bit, which should be easy enough to make an improvement with some cross braces. Next, I need to lift the front a inch or so to get better clearance.
@@RyanShea cool is yours a hydro.
No link to the plans or even where to buy them?
Pf engineering
Which pump did you use, and has it been enough?
I don't recall offhand, but yes what I have is on the low-end sufficient as in fast acting enough and certainly more powerful than warranted for the frame of this wimpy lawn tractor. The PF Engineering plans have details about flow rate and such that you'll want to aim for, which you could get from Northern Tool or Surplus Center or your local Tractor Supply. The ratio of the main engine pulley to the pulley on the pump obviously is important for the flow created by the pump. I suppose everything in the hydraulic system, valve, fittings, hoses, cylinders, reservoir - is is all important. Unfortunately, I know only what was required to get it to work and be slightly less afraid of hydraulic circuits.
Передний мост не слабый для таких нагрузок?
How many quarts of hydraulic fluid takes
I estimate about 5-6. I wish I knew. In working through leaks and tank rebuilds let's say I did my share of sopping up spilled/leaked fluid.
Good video, but wrong tractor. Using a X700 series JD is the best garden tractors for loaders IMHO
Very nice! How much did it cost you to build?
Kinda doesn't matter because prices are way higher now, and the investment is time. If I had spent years salvaging parts from scrap yards I'm sure I could have spent less. Maybe I spent $1500, but this isn't a kit. Each person's situation is different.
@@RyanShea Good point. Prices for everything are ludicrous these days. Front end loader are perhaps the most useful accessory for a garden tractor. It's amazing how they manufacture modern lawn tractors. So light and frail. Great project and I'm glad it suited your needs. Thanks for sharing!
Take that schedule 40 galvanized pipe off that and use a stainless flex connector for your filter.
Oh, ha. Yes I made, um, choices based on what lengths were available. I know it isn't right but the home center won't thread lengths shorter than two feet and I don't want to buy a npt dye thing.
So the job was a pain in the butt 😂
So what's the status of the trans?
It is fine. I really don't use the machine much because it gets stuck in my squishy clay soil.
Hi did the same thing but i designed it it will destroy your tractor . It almost killed mine a lot older and better made wit a 6 speed manual transmission
One thing don't use galvanized pipe it will flake off into your pump and ruin it
Yup, there were a lot of compromises and challenges on the plumbing side. Lowes and Home Depot cannot thread short pieces in their threader and buying a whole npt threading setup wasn't in the cards.
Everyone that wants front loads for there tractor I understand that
Can you make a video of it in use?
Here you go:
photos.app.goo.gl/BiCctDtsyjjaLnUK8
will convert my toy to hydraulic this coming summer
Its still not attached well. If you tried driving into a pile hard it would snap off. Look at how other loaders are built. Your rear upright mounting location at the bottom. 1 3/8 bolt isn't enough. Anytime rod is going through bushing or bearings or wheels you need cold rolled steel. It's not a hard project, it just takes a lot of stick to it ness lol
It is all about the weakest link. I think the DOM bushing stock is cold rolled, but not the pins. The tractor frame itself has all the rigidity of a soup can, so this is about moving wood chips, which are light. I can't get into too much trouble because the open diff is a virtual guarantee of getting stuck in mud or gravel or wood chips (yup, all three happened) . Also the steering is hard enough that I can't whip this thing around quickly, even on a good surface. It is funny though how many differing opinions there are about what will break first. My guess is the frame itself or something with the front wheels. I'll watch it for those piles (or more likely trees) though.
Hi, Ed here with Ed's 2 Cents Worth. I would like your permission to use a couple of captures from your video(s) of front end loaders on small tractors (lawn mower type tractor). I am in the process of creating a video encouraging home owners with some mechanical/fabrication experience to go ahead and build their loader. If I can demonstrate there are multiple uses for a small loaders more will join in. So if I can display how others are using their loaders prospective builders will see they are far more versatile than just moving dirt and mulch around. I will not use any pictures that I do not have permission to capture. Thanks you, I await your reply, Ed Preve
Have at it
Awesome video, Im curious to what belt you had off the pump, was it one of those adjustable amazon ones? If so how do you like it? I started a wheelhorse build on my channel recently. Im going to subscribe to your channel, if you get a chance check out mine. Thanks!
Wow this wasn’t an easy built, would you do this again or would you rather buy a skid steer
If the goal is to get a productive machine and you have the means, I'd buy
It’s not to hard make front loader just take your time figure it out what you want do with it in your yard no one listens what I say my little CZcams channel in video or watch other videos on CZcams seeing all front bucket loader on all tractors are great
Hard for me, but I agree that CZcams is an amazing resource. I'm not sure what I would have done without it (unless I knew personally knew someone knowledgeable about these things).
Those counter weights.... Yikes!
Yeah. Works though. Easy enough to do something more complicated if necessary, but it's fine so far.
It’s over built for that tractor. I’m looking at building one of these on a craftsman lawn tractor but using smaller components from two small engine lifts rather than starting from scratch.
Every one of these I’ve seen is either under built or over built.
The PF Engineering guy actually came out with a new set of plans for a smaller tractor - but that didn't exist when I made this. I don't know what I'm doing so having even a bad recipe to follow is a good thing.
Yes of course your supposed to know how hyd cyl and valves are supposed to be plumbed. That's why if you're going to do a project like this you'll need to learn how things function. The valve manufacturers have no idea what you're using the valve for do how can they tell you how to plumb it.
The assumption seems odd to me. It's not like there is a "practical hydraulic systems for noob farmers" course on Khan Academy, or even in vocational school, so learn by failing or scouring youtube was the best way for me - I don't live in a rural area or have friends/family well versed in these things.
your first mistake was that P.O.S. lawn tractor
If it breaks I can simply go grab a new one for a song on Craig's List. My use case is loading wood chips into a trailer and fitting into small spaces matters on my property. In some ways having an old Simplicity or Case really wouldn't suit me well right now.
To much weight for that little tractor
At least for now it is working. The two weak links which can be improved are the front wheel spindles, which can get a cross brace welded in easy enough, and the twist of the frame itself, which again can take some simple cross braces at the bottom to increase rigidity. The transaxle is what it is - certainly not made for this, so I have to be gentle. Loading wood chips into a small dump bed is my main application, and it has been doing well for that. If the tractor completely dies under the stress, mehh, get a different one. In fact, I have another one sitting right next to it I got for less than $300.
@@RyanShea that's just a lawn mower it's not a garden tractor and is not meant for ground engaging implements and definitely not for a loader or all the weight. But, looks good and a nice build.