I know nothing of the mechanical nature. Until I found this weird looking thing with a spinning wheel on it laying in a ditch. Turns out it's a denso alternator, mind you I didn't even know what the hell it did once up on a time. You have learned me something right. Thanks man!
To install the bearing throw it in the freezer over night. Turn on the oven and throw the alternator shell in it for about 15 minutes or just heat it with a heat gun. Take the the bearing out of the freezer and while the alternator shell is still hot place the bearing in the bed. It fits right in and it may only require few taps...You are welcome.Do NOT pound a bearing on the inner ring! Find a large enough socket or a piece of pipe which will match the outer ring diameter.
You need to pound on the side of the bearing that is experiencing friction, or else the force is being transmitted through the bearing balls. Sometimes pounding the outside will damage the bearing, sometimes pounding the inside will damage the bearing. The solution for putting a housing onto a bearing that is on the shaft is heating it as you said. Lightly grease the OD the bearing, and put the housing in the oven at 250 degrees and it should slip right over without any pounding. Unfortunately there is no good solution for putting a shaft into a bearing that is already in a housing without applying stress to the balls.
Thanks for this refresher! We learned it in Navy A-school. During the exam, one of the multiple choices for what tool to use for taking apart an alternator was "BFH". One who did not do his homework might choose that - a Big Effin Hammer :)
excellent diy for the alternators. you did a great guidance compering to a lot of video I saw in the you tube. very precise, handful, applicable and in one word marvelous JOB. thanks so much . hoping for more work like this one. It helped me much.......
Hello Mike, thanks for this very informative video. I have a 2006 Honda Accord with the 3.0L V-6 and my original alternator went out about a year and a half, or so, ago. I then purchased and installed a remanufactured 110 amp Denso unit from RockAuto. This Denso/RockAuto unit has been on the car now for around 18 months, give or take. However, approximately 4 months ago, one morning when I started the engine I started hearing this high-pitched whining sound coming from the engine bay. At first, my immediate thought was that it sounded just like a power steering pump, low on fluid. The whine did NOT get louder and/or quieter when turning the steering wheel, in either direction, at idle, or otherwise. I checked the power steering fluid and looked over the hoses for any leaks that may have been sucking air into the system, but nothing!!! I also took a long screwdriver and placed the tip on both the power steering pump and the alternator and placed my ear on the opposite end and the vibration noises coming from the alternator were way louder and way more intense than the vibration noises coming from the power steering pump, like night and day difference. So, after a process of elimination, it is my opinion that it is NOT the power steering pump/system, but rather my alternator, from where the whine is coming from and where my problem lies. I have no problem buying a kit from your site, however, at the same time I would also just like to know why and what is causing the alternator to whine like it is. Is it possible for you to tell me more about this whining noise coming from the alternator? I did a little research online, on some Honda forums, and found exactly what I expected to find... I expected to find ANY answer that I wanted to find and everything in between!!! Some threads said that the whine could be a diode that has burnt out or gone out and it could be this or that and whatever else you could imagine. While I am NOT 100% positive, I do NOT believe that it's the alternator bearings making the whining noise, simply because usually bearings make more of a roaring noise and this is a whine NOT a roar. It also does NOT sound like any bearing I've ever heard that was on the fritz. I mean, to me, it's really more like a supercharger or power steering pump whine than any bearing I have ever heard when going out. Thanks in advance and I look forward to seeing what you have to say in regards to my issue.
Well, we don't sell that kit, just the starter kit. Remove the plug in and main cable from the alternator. If the whine stops, its a diode but still maybe a bearing somewhere. For me, an empty cardboard gift wrap tube is the best thing to locate the source of a noise. Take it to a dealer or Honda mechanic and get an estimate, maybe they would be familiar with a common problem like AC, idler pulley or tensioner. Sometimes soapy water spray will quiet a bearing or clutch for 2 seconds. Give up on line research for this. Process of elimination starting with cheapest.
Nice video, however when you tap down to remove the front cover put the nut on flush with the shaft to protect the threads. Other than than simply awsome video. Keith.
Thanks for a very methodical procedure to tear down the alternator. I would suggest that if you strip the alternator that far down, then it is a good idea to to do a continuity check of terminal to terminal, terminal to ground as well as measure winding resistance for the rotor and each of the three windings of the stator.
Feel free to do any continuity testing of your liking. However we do not support resistance tests of the stator windings with a common ohm meter. People will not know what the resistance is when going phase to phase, and we don't know either, because it's not going to be as accurate as a good visual inspection (looking and smelling for signs of heat) on the stator. Also, squeezing the stator with your hands to test rigidity, or tapping lightly on the stator winding with a screwdriver to check for a good bounce back. The only real electrical test for stator windings would be with a hipot, and very few of the people that buy our kits would be able to get their hands on one.
@@rebuilderinabox You have a good point on measuring resistance. The continuity check will help to confirm that no short exists between the windings and the alternator body.
@Mike Lauer Resistance of the stator windings should be absolutely minimal - well under an ohm. Since the stator is wired in a ‘Y’ configuration (with the neutral at the center), there should be continuity between any two of the four stator terminals. Of course, because resistance should be very low regardless of what you measure, there is no way of knowing whether there is an internal short. But if there is NO continuity or there is rather high resistance between any two terminals, you know you have an issue. In other words, measuring stator continuity detects BREAKS, but not shorts.
Mike Lauer If you’ve not seen it already, “Shake Hands with Danger” is a 1980’s Safety Video by Caterpillar. I highly advise it to all Blue Collar workers, not so much for the safety, but more for the “Entertainment Value”. A+++++
Notice the line where the front housing meets the rear housing, especially if just buying a reman. That split point should be even all the way around. There is a small lip on both housings it must be clean, I used a Dremel and a brass wire wheel
Outstanding video, similar to the one you did on the starter motor. Nothing like the kind of detail needed to do this at home, and full credit for a technique using simple tools. Does your company ship to Canada?
Great video!! helped so damn much but when i took mines apart i found a small wire that looks like it was on the rotor but is just hanging. is it suppose to be solder on there?
Nah, thought that at first as well, but on 2nd look I noticed that the the breaks are old, dirty & oxidized - no shiny new metal. I'd bin that bad boy, though, or get the case fixed. Figuring he's just using it as a teaching aid.
Thank you for your very informative video....the only question I have is if your Denso Alternator has a "Decoupler Pulley" on it, is there any different consideration (or tool) needed to remove that pulley?
Sorry for the delay in response, these particular Denso alternators do not have a clutch pulley on them. On the ones that have a clutch pulley do require a special tool. We are looking into an economical way of distributing a kit for that participial rebuild kit. With the added expense of the tool and the extra cost of a clutch pulley it might be better just to buy an alternator.
Good but process isn't complete without using some grease when rebuild the piece, I mean put some grease in bolts, bearing socket, threads and sliding parts in order to get easy reassembly and facilitate disassembly in the future, also some grease or oil contributes to better adjust and tighten of parts, other reccomendation is to use some piece or aluminum, bronze or wood to beat the main shaft, it maintain measures and finishings in a good shape.
Nice info! If I wanted to make my alternator "pretty" by cleaning, priming and painting the case, would I need to do anything else special to it besides the full teardown you show? Looking to put in a higher amperage alternator into a 1972 Charger. Thanks!
+AustrianAnarchy While you have the alternator apart it would be a good idea to do the clean up part. If you have access to a sand blaster that would be the easiest way to blast all of the dirt and grim off. Then you are able to use spray paint to get the desired look.
Nicely done video. The only thing left out is how to install slip rings. My slip rings is deeply grooved and looks to be almost to the plastic. how to install a new slip ring?
We only support slip ring replacement on units that will end well with the procedure. For that type of alt. we recommend a used rotor ass'y which you can contact us for (if you have purchased a kit). LImit one per customer.
You were so careful not to hammer through the bearings when you first installed both of them.... but then you hammered through the front one when installing the rotor, and then the back one when installing the rear casing.
Too bad you don't have rebuild kits for my 07 Jeep wrangler 3.8L. Local rebuilder puts cheap Chinese parts in them don't last. I had 200k on mine bearings went out sounded like a groaning sound. I thought it was my PS, or Automatic transmission. I removed the belt and started it the noise was gone. I took it to local rebuilder he rebuilt it the diode board blew out while I was 44 miles up a rock crawling trail in AZ. What a pita had to rope tow out and winch about 10 times using 4 jumper cables to jump tow vehicle power to my rear bumper winch pull me backwards in the switchbacks. Buy OEM if you can't rebuild yourself now, I keep a spare. New OEM worth it when you get stuck on a trail.
Do you have any knowledge to why my alternator would be overcharging with 16+ volts? It does it with the voltage regulator unplugged too and the voltage increases with RPM
There is a vid on CZcams on how to rewire your alt to double the output, then run a smaller pulley, should get you close to 300 if your starting with a 130a alt...
its every easy. get new slip ring.to take off old slip ring crush it in a vice and it will crumble you can pull it off with fingers.cut wires on old slip.to fit new slip ring just line it up and tap it on with nylon hammer solder the wires seal with some arldite job done.iv done thousands. best to put rotor in lathe and skim slip ring to make it spin true did atleast 5 a week for over 20 years.you can get copper rings that you solder over the old slip ring but you need to skim them in a lathe
Hi I did it but when I closed it it's not spinning freely and it's grinding . I changed both wheel bearings . Do u think it's not align properly or fans r touching housing / casing ?. Regards
Not the bearings. Lightly hammer tap outside diameter at position where roughness or hit occurs. Place drive end plate on vice with pulley free in between the jaws. Light hammer tap down on back plate. Retighten thru bolts. Fans on rotor can also be tapped down or in. Look for marks inside. A little interference (not jamming rotation) can be tolerated) It will stop shortly after installation with no side effects to alternator.
Yes, there are tools to do that cold. We usually do that with our rebuilds so we can blast the plates in a tumbler machine. However the tooling is rather pricy and wouldn't be worth it to the average guy. Maybe you could take the piece to a local rebuilder and have it dis assembled. Re assembly requires no special tooling, just oven heat the plate (350F for 1/2 hr) and tap it back in exact position.
@@rebuilderinabox Many thanks for taking the time to reply Mike. I live quite remote so no facilities nearby. I'll just need to get busy with a scotchbrite 🙂 Cheers
@@rebuilderinabox oh my brother owned his own alternator and starter repair shop for years but at this time we are so far apart he wasn't able to help me but also had sold his shop but you can find it in New Castle Indiana under Elwood alternator and starter repair. But thank you anyway
Not a common problem unless the vehicle was subjected to unusual wear or dead shorts. But yes the alternator will not charge if it is bad. We have them available separately because normally it is a re usable item for 2-3 hundred K miles. 4 phases in the winding has little stress on the diodes and they are very efficiently cooled in this particular Denso design.
Hi, thankx for this video , im portuguese and my Jeep Cherokee alternator dont have that number reference but its almost identical , so im having an. issue whit it , when driving and at 2000 rp or more i have about 13 volts and all ok but when i stop hit the pedal sometimes i have about 11, 50 volts or so , even at nigth and i can see ligths going more alive if i hit the acelerador pedal and something funny started happen too wish is my volt gauge fall to 9 volts and then up again , do this almost always i start drive the car .Checking the voltage whit multimiter at alternator i got 12 volts and sometimes less, whit no one hiting pedal ofcorse , but i guess its not working something there . I alreaddy switch the brushes but problem remains, checked the rectifier whit multimiter and i got the same value in all so i presume its good , now i dont know where to check more ; my slip rings are exacly like yours there and i thougth it was the problem but now i saw your video and maybe its not from there , so can you have ideia where my problem can be or what can i check \'
Try another battery. Go thru all vehicle grounds. Clean fuse block. Voltage reg is in computer, clean connections, grounds. Follow large wire coming off alternator, dis assemble fuse link and clean.
thanks for your answer, just another question, do you know the right value of diodes? I checked and gave me about 4 in all them , but yesterday I did another try checking a output alternator and case and got about 1, 12
@@000jamesh They will all measure very similar resistance. Then checking in reverse, very little bleed thru. The exact reading will vary on scale and meters.
Our goal is 100% success rate. We'd rather you don't try this at home. We show you some grooves are tolerable, particularly with our brushes which have a little more carbon than OE. If you happen to have one that's burnt through to the plastic, we'd recommend calling us to order a new one, or possibly we would have a used one available.
Muy bueno el video y gracias por compartir el conocimiento. Queria hacerle una pregunta tecnica a ver si usted me puede ayudar, tengo un alternador denso de cherokee 95 el numero de parte es Denso 210-0130 el cual dejo de trabajar lo desmonte y cambie escobillas y al montar en la primera arrancada manda 14V y funciona perfecto en todo, pero al siguiente dia ya no funciona, entonces vuelvo a bajar el alternador y monto de nuevo y vuelve a funcionar perfecto y luego deja de trabajar en la segunda arrancada, ya descarte diodera y estator ya verifique todo el ramal que va desde el alternador a la PCM pero me surge una gran duda el arnes va conectado a dos postes con unas tuerquitas de 7mm esa pieza tiene el numero ATR-6001 y mi duda es si esa pieza funciona como un regulador aun cuando en este caso de jeep cherokee regula la PCM, esa pieza tiene una especie de diodo o resistencia que no se como verificar que este buena y en eso es que espero por favor me pueda ayudar. De antemano muchas gracias y disculpe lo largo de mi comentario. Saludos
Why is a voltage regulator the same price as a whole alternator? Ive looked everywhere the cheapest is autozone for $80 while a brand new alternator is $100
A worthy argument and true for for some (Ford) but not Denso or Delphi. We have studied this over the years and stand by our statement for 99%. Aftermarket brushes have a higher carbon content which slows copper wear down dramatically. The wear on a Denso OE will be 100% with 100k miles on some apps, but < 10% at 100K on others due to battery age and pollutants.
Please don't. Nasty would be the center piece of a puller messing up the copper slip ring by spreading it from center pressure. Try it if you have one you want to waste.
I can understand hammer and all but 12:00 socket extension on the huge diameter bearing? Come on .....; at least look around your shop for something better. These must be how street guys given hammer to tear down concrete walls.I would not go to this rebuilder.
This movie is part of a website that is designed by professionals but dedicated to America's working man in the trenches who may have limited tools and budget. We supply the parts and the exact video for the blue collar guy, so he can get to work with basic tools. See our mission statement on our website. alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/about-us/
Anything's possible but I doubt it. If you found one leave a link. The guys in the shop have been using Snap-on CG270 but we had to customize it by grinding off the bottom part of the legs and removing the centering piece and using a penny. (the recessed opening in the top is so small, any puller's shaft would bend before pulling the bearing) However, the penny with a CG270 is malleable enough to conform and pull without any damage to the plastic slip ring if the centering devise has been removed. PROBLEM is our site is dedicated to the average guy with basic tools. alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/about-us/. SOLUTION is pry bars. When used carefully, they work great.
best explanations ever!!!!no loud music,good camera work and clear voice and explanation. very good work Mike.
I know nothing of the mechanical nature.
Until I found this weird looking thing with a spinning wheel on it laying in a ditch.
Turns out it's a denso alternator, mind you I didn't even know what the hell it did once up on a time.
You have learned me something right. Thanks man!
I'm right at 6 minutes and I'm thoroughly enjoying the superb close up shots and super clear explanations. Thank you very much sir.
A very nice online teacher with step by step explanation. Much thanks from 🇰🇪🇰🇪🇰🇪🇰🇪
To install the bearing throw it in the freezer over night. Turn on the oven and throw the alternator shell in it for about 15 minutes or just heat it with a heat gun. Take the the bearing out of the freezer and while the alternator shell is still hot place the bearing in the bed. It fits right in and it may only require few taps...You are welcome.Do NOT pound a bearing on the inner ring! Find a large enough socket or a piece of pipe which will match the outer ring diameter.
You need to pound on the side of the bearing that is experiencing friction, or else the force is being transmitted through the bearing balls. Sometimes pounding the outside will damage the bearing, sometimes pounding the inside will damage the bearing.
The solution for putting a housing onto a bearing that is on the shaft is heating it as you said.
Lightly grease the OD the bearing, and put the housing in the oven at 250 degrees and it should slip right over without any pounding.
Unfortunately there is no good solution for putting a shaft into a bearing that is already in a housing without applying stress to the balls.
Yeah.. no. Shops don't have time for all that BS.
Followed the video. Rebuild completed without any issues.
Thanks.
Awesome video! Precise and detailed!
Great tutorial! I followed along step by step and rebuilt mine in hardly any time at all.
Thanks for this refresher! We learned it in Navy A-school. During the exam, one of the multiple choices for what tool to use for taking apart an alternator was "BFH". One who did not do his homework might choose that - a Big Effin Hammer :)
Best explanation l have ever seen
Thanks keep it up pal
Have rebuilt my alternator easily after watching you, thanks again
Thanks for the lesson Mike. You have just helped me out BIG!
Your vid is the BOMB!!!! Thx sooooo much for posting this. Without your help I may have not done bearings on the truck
excellent diy for the alternators. you did a great guidance compering to a lot of video I saw in the you tube. very precise, handful, applicable and in one word marvelous JOB. thanks so much . hoping for more work like this one. It helped me much.......
9:05....make sure your feet are out of the way. I almost had to get a new foot!
Awesome video. Thanks!
Very informative & well produced
Subscribed
Still Super Useful in 2021, Thanks!
Very well made video! You are a definite expert sir! Good job
Dude! Thank you for such a detailed tutorial.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
l am no auto electrician but this video was very easy to follow and understand excellent work
Excellent video; I learned a lot. Thanks so much.
Hello Mike, thanks for this very informative video. I have a 2006 Honda Accord with the 3.0L V-6 and my original alternator went out about a year and a half, or so, ago. I then purchased and installed a remanufactured 110 amp Denso unit from RockAuto. This Denso/RockAuto unit has been on the car now for around 18 months, give or take. However, approximately 4 months ago, one morning when I started the engine I started hearing this high-pitched whining sound coming from the engine bay. At first, my immediate thought was that it sounded just like a power steering pump, low on fluid. The whine did NOT get louder and/or quieter when turning the steering wheel, in either direction, at idle, or otherwise. I checked the power steering fluid and looked over the hoses for any leaks that may have been sucking air into the system, but nothing!!! I also took a long screwdriver and placed the tip on both the power steering pump and the alternator and placed my ear on the opposite end and the vibration noises coming from the alternator were way louder and way more intense than the vibration noises coming from the power steering pump, like night and day difference. So, after a process of elimination, it is my opinion that it is NOT the power steering pump/system, but rather my alternator, from where the whine is coming from and where my problem lies. I have no problem buying a kit from your site, however, at the same time I would also just like to know why and what is causing the alternator to whine like it is. Is it possible for you to tell me more about this whining noise coming from the alternator? I did a little research online, on some Honda forums, and found exactly what I expected to find... I expected to find ANY answer that I wanted to find and everything in between!!! Some threads said that the whine could be a diode that has burnt out or gone out and it could be this or that and whatever else you could imagine. While I am NOT 100% positive, I do NOT believe that it's the alternator bearings making the whining noise, simply because usually bearings make more of a roaring noise and this is a whine NOT a roar. It also does NOT sound like any bearing I've ever heard that was on the fritz. I mean, to me, it's really more like a supercharger or power steering pump whine than any bearing I have ever heard when going out. Thanks in advance and I look forward to seeing what you have to say in regards to my issue.
Well, we don't sell that kit, just the starter kit. Remove the plug in and main cable from the alternator. If the whine stops, its a diode but still maybe a bearing somewhere. For me, an empty cardboard gift wrap tube is the best thing to locate the source of a noise. Take it to a dealer or Honda mechanic and get an estimate, maybe they would be familiar with a common problem like AC, idler pulley or tensioner. Sometimes soapy water spray will quiet a bearing or clutch for 2 seconds. Give up on line research for this. Process of elimination starting with cheapest.
Remove alt and have spin tested at AZ Orielly to see if you hear noise at vender.
I saw the other guy, for the case bearing, heat the bearing case and freeze the bearing set, and then put them into couple easily, no hitting.
Sir, very detailed and very informative vdo. I really the way you explain each and thing. You are excellent. Keep it up.
Thanks for sharing this video with us.
This instructional is a treasure.
Nice video, however when you tap down to remove the front cover put the nut on flush with the shaft to protect the threads. Other than than simply awsome video.
Keith.
Thanks for a very methodical procedure to tear down the alternator. I would suggest that if you strip the alternator that far down, then it is a good idea to to do a continuity check of terminal to terminal, terminal to ground as well as measure winding resistance for the rotor and each of the three windings of the stator.
Feel free to do any continuity testing of your liking. However we do not support resistance tests of the stator windings with a common ohm meter. People will not know what the resistance is when going phase to phase, and we don't know either, because it's not going to be as accurate as a good visual inspection (looking and smelling for signs of heat) on the stator. Also, squeezing the stator with your hands to test rigidity, or tapping lightly on the stator winding with a screwdriver to check for a good bounce back. The only real electrical test for stator windings would be with a hipot, and very few of the people that buy our kits would be able to get their hands on one.
@@rebuilderinabox You have a good point on measuring resistance. The continuity check will help to confirm that no short exists between the windings and the alternator body.
@@rebuilderinabox you have "kits" !?
@@davidwebster7918 Yes, click the link above.
@Mike Lauer Resistance of the stator windings should be absolutely minimal - well under an ohm. Since the stator is wired in a ‘Y’ configuration (with the neutral at the center), there should be continuity between any two of the four stator terminals. Of course, because resistance should be very low regardless of what you measure, there is no way of knowing whether there is an internal short. But if there is NO continuity or there is rather high resistance between any two terminals, you know you have an issue. In other words, measuring stator continuity detects BREAKS, but not shorts.
It helped me a lot ,Thank you so much bro!!!!
+Gerardo Esteban no problem
👍👍 THX
Useful tuto to discover how the alternator of my XJ is made
8:41 If you don’t grind those burrs off your Center Punch, you’re gonna “Shake Hands with Danger”! 🎸
lol. Helmet and catcher's mask optional.
Mike Lauer If you’ve not seen it already, “Shake Hands with Danger” is a 1980’s Safety Video by Caterpillar. I highly advise it to all Blue Collar workers, not so much for the safety, but more for the “Entertainment Value”. A+++++
czcams.com/video/A03jmS3jA8o/video.html
That was awesome! Thanks man!
Master class. Awesome
Notice the line where the front housing meets the rear housing, especially if just buying a reman. That split point should be even all the way around. There is a small lip on both housings it must be clean, I used a Dremel and a brass wire wheel
18:10 Is where replacement of brushes starts.
Outstanding video, similar to the one you did on the starter motor. Nothing like the kind of detail needed to do this at home, and full credit for a technique using simple tools. Does your company ship to Canada?
Nice video dude.
Great video!! helped so damn much but when i took mines apart i found a small wire that looks like it was on the rotor but is just hanging. is it suppose to be solder on there?
Nice video. But what if you do have to replace the brush slip rings? How is that done?
*Do you ever use any sealant when reassembling an alternator; especially a Bosch water cooled alternator?*
I would imagine this alternator is scrap judging by the cracked casing at 15:40
Probably he dropped it,LOL or by hammering on it to get the case lose ?
Nah, thought that at first as well, but on 2nd look I noticed that the the breaks are old, dirty & oxidized - no shiny new metal. I'd bin that bad boy, though, or get the case fixed. Figuring he's just using it as a teaching aid.
@@bobbofly Just wrap it up with a hose clamp.
Can your company supply replacement copper commutator slip-rings?
v nice job
how do you test the rectifier to see if it is working order?
when all you have is a hammer everything starts to look like nails...
Man, no kidding.
Materi. Like!
轴承安装方式貌似有点问题，还是应该用轴承冷安装工具，比如SKF的。
Thank you for your very informative video....the only question I have is if your Denso Alternator has a "Decoupler Pulley" on it, is there any different consideration (or tool) needed to remove that pulley?
Sorry for the delay in response, these particular Denso alternators do not have a clutch pulley on them. On the ones that have a clutch pulley do require a special tool. We are looking into an economical way of distributing a kit for that participial rebuild kit. With the added expense of the tool and the extra cost of a clutch pulley it might be better just to buy an alternator.
+Mike Lauer Mike can you tell me what would be the best rebuild kit for my 06 liberty and to get more amperage. .?
when doing this my lunch slipped and I broke the plastic ring. is this something I need to worry about? will it cause any issues?
This is an excellent video!Is the brush holder the same in all three(3) alternators?
+john darnell Yes it is the same brush holder for all 3 alternators
These are older jeep alternators, correct?
Yes they are for older jeep alternators.
Good but process isn't complete without using some grease when rebuild the piece, I mean put some grease in bolts, bearing socket, threads and sliding parts in order to get easy reassembly and facilitate disassembly in the future, also some grease or oil contributes to better adjust and tighten of parts, other reccomendation is to use some piece or aluminum, bronze or wood to beat the main shaft, it maintain measures and finishings in a good shape.
Hey man I'd love to give you guys my business but unfortunately you don't offer kits for Honda. Thank you for the video and information anyways!
Nice info! If I wanted to make my alternator "pretty" by cleaning, priming and painting the case, would I need to do anything else special to it besides the full teardown you show? Looking to put in a higher amperage alternator into a 1972 Charger. Thanks!
+AustrianAnarchy While you have the alternator apart it would be a good idea to do the clean up part. If you have access to a sand blaster that would be the easiest way to blast all of the dirt and grim off. Then you are able to use spray paint to get the desired look.
Mike Lauer Thanks! I can't remember from the video, but do both halves of the case come off/coils come out of the unit?
+AustrianAnarchy Sorry in the delay, somehow your comment was missed by me. It is not suggested to take out the stator for a home rebuild.
Nice,
Using basic tool,
A13188
Very Good Video, im retired after 30 years in my Shop
Nicely done video. The only thing left out is how to install slip rings. My slip rings is deeply grooved and looks to be almost to the plastic. how to install a new slip ring?
We only support slip ring replacement on units that will end well with the procedure. For that type of alt. we recommend a used rotor ass'y which you can contact us for (if you have purchased a kit). LImit one per customer.
You were so careful not to hammer through the bearings when you first installed both of them.... but then you hammered through the front one when installing the rotor, and then the back one when installing the rear casing.
That's the only way of doing it !
Hi boss where can i buy the parts on the alternator
Too bad you don't have rebuild kits for my 07 Jeep wrangler 3.8L. Local rebuilder puts cheap Chinese parts in them don't last. I had 200k on mine bearings went out sounded like a groaning sound. I thought it was my PS, or Automatic transmission. I removed the belt and started it the noise was gone. I took it to local rebuilder he rebuilt it the diode board blew out while I was 44 miles up a rock crawling trail in AZ. What a pita had to rope tow out and winch about 10 times using 4 jumper cables to jump tow vehicle power to my rear bumper winch pull me backwards in the switchbacks. Buy OEM if you can't rebuild yourself now, I keep a spare. New OEM worth it when you get stuck on a trail.
Mike what’s the most common part that fails on these Denso alternators. Brush assembly voltage regulator
Brushes, bearings, corrosion in that order. There is no voltage regulator. It's external.
Do you have any knowledge to why my alternator would be overcharging with 16+ volts? It does it with the voltage regulator unplugged too and the voltage increases with RPM
Bad voltage regulator, bad ground, shorted battery. One of those 3 on a Denso system.
Why don't you use a bigger dickey are bearing tool to hammer it in?
Do you have videos on 2013 Honda Accord alternator rebuild?
No sorry. Not yet.
Sorry no. We do not support or suggest a home rebuild for that style of alternator.
What part of the alternator is to be replaced if it doesn't charge, and the light indicator doesn't off when the engine is running?
Just about anything can cause that. What vehicle/year/milage? Test harness, hot cable first. Then brushes, rotor, diodes/stator.
s there a way to make a GM Alternator that is internally regulated go to 100% duty cycle to test its max amp output ?
Carbon pile load, raise RPM's
Thx u can u make one on how to up grade /to make/with part #/ a honda accord 2.3 alternator make 300 amps please thx u again
There is a vid on CZcams on how to rewire your alt to double the output, then run a smaller pulley, should get you close to 300 if your starting with a 130a alt...
Size bearing?
Everythings great Except: Can NOT find any video from you on how to REPLACE THE SLIP RINGS on a Denso alternator! PLEASE UPLOAD ONE!
its every easy. get new slip ring.to take off old slip ring crush it in a vice and it will crumble you can pull it off with fingers.cut wires on old slip.to fit new slip ring just line it up and tap it on with nylon hammer solder the wires seal with some arldite job done.iv done thousands. best to put rotor in lathe and skim slip ring to make it spin true did atleast 5 a week for over 20 years.you can get copper rings that you solder over the old slip ring but you need to skim them in a lathe
Hi
I did it but when I closed it it's not spinning freely and it's grinding .
I changed both wheel bearings .
Do u think it's not align properly or fans r touching housing / casing ?.
Regards
Not the bearings. Lightly hammer tap outside diameter at position where roughness or hit occurs. Place drive end plate on vice with pulley free in between the jaws. Light hammer tap down on back plate. Retighten thru bolts. Fans on rotor can also be tapped down or in. Look for marks inside. A little interference (not jamming rotation) can be tolerated) It will stop shortly after installation with no side effects to alternator.
12mins in. Is it difficult to remove the windings from the housing? Want to vapor blast the entire casing while stripped. For cosmetics only. Cheers
Yes, there are tools to do that cold. We usually do that with our rebuilds so we can blast the plates in a tumbler machine. However the tooling is rather pricy and wouldn't be worth it to the average guy. Maybe you could take the piece to a local rebuilder and have it dis assembled. Re assembly requires no special tooling, just oven heat the plate (350F for 1/2 hr) and tap it back in exact position.
@@rebuilderinabox Many thanks for taking the time to reply Mike. I live quite remote so no facilities nearby. I'll just need to get busy with a scotchbrite 🙂 Cheers
How do you change the slip rings on that alternator?That is the only problem I have.
We don't support doing that outside of a professional facility with experience in that specific area. In other words we don't want to waste your time.
@@rebuilderinabox oh my brother owned his own alternator and starter repair shop for years but at this time we are so far apart he wasn't able to help me but also had sold his shop but you can find it in New Castle Indiana under Elwood alternator and starter repair. But thank you anyway
What about the rectifier. Why would it not be changed. Wouldn’t it not charge if it was bad ?
Not a common problem unless the vehicle was subjected to unusual wear or dead shorts. But yes the alternator will not charge if it is bad. We have them available separately because normally it is a re usable item for 2-3 hundred K miles. 4 phases in the winding has little stress on the diodes and they are very efficiently cooled in this particular Denso design.
Hi, thankx for this video , im portuguese and my Jeep Cherokee alternator dont have that number reference but its almost identical , so im having an. issue whit it , when driving and at 2000 rp or more i have about 13 volts and all ok but when i stop hit the pedal sometimes i have about 11, 50 volts or so , even at nigth and i can see ligths going more alive if i hit the acelerador pedal and something funny started happen too wish is my volt gauge fall to 9 volts and then up again , do this almost always i start drive the car .Checking the voltage whit multimiter at alternator i got 12 volts and sometimes less, whit no one hiting pedal ofcorse , but i guess its not working something there . I alreaddy switch the brushes but problem remains, checked the rectifier whit multimiter and i got the same value in all so i presume its good , now i dont know where to check more ; my slip rings are exacly like yours there and i thougth it was the problem but now i saw your video and maybe its not from there , so can you have ideia where my problem can be or what can i check \'
Try another battery. Go thru all vehicle grounds. Clean fuse block. Voltage reg is in computer, clean connections, grounds. Follow large wire coming off alternator, dis assemble fuse link and clean.
thanks for your answer, just another question, do you know the right value of diodes? I checked and gave me about 4 in all them , but yesterday I did another try checking a output alternator and case and got about 1, 12
@@000jamesh They will all measure very similar resistance. Then checking in reverse, very little bleed thru. The exact reading will vary on scale and meters.
Hello sir, please can I get in touch with you?
What if you did have to replace the Rotor Slip Rings? Is that replaceable? How is that done?
Our goal is 100% success rate. We'd rather you don't try this at home. We show you some grooves are tolerable, particularly with our brushes which have a little more carbon than OE. If you happen to have one that's burnt through to the plastic, we'd recommend calling us to order a new one, or possibly we would have a used one available.
Mike Lauer I was just curious, not setting out to start an Alternator career! 😹
The answer wasn't just necessarily for you. People who are actually doing the work can learn from relevant questions.
Muy bueno el video y gracias por compartir el conocimiento. Queria hacerle una pregunta tecnica a ver si usted me puede ayudar, tengo un alternador denso de cherokee 95 el numero de parte es Denso 210-0130 el cual dejo de trabajar lo desmonte y cambie escobillas y al montar en la primera arrancada manda 14V y funciona perfecto en todo, pero al siguiente dia ya no funciona, entonces vuelvo a bajar el alternador y monto de nuevo y vuelve a funcionar perfecto y luego deja de trabajar en la segunda arrancada, ya descarte diodera y estator ya verifique todo el ramal que va desde el alternador a la PCM pero me surge una gran duda el arnes va conectado a dos postes con unas tuerquitas de 7mm esa pieza tiene el numero ATR-6001 y mi duda es si esa pieza funciona como un regulador aun cuando en este caso de jeep cherokee regula la PCM, esa pieza tiene una especie de diodo o resistencia que no se como verificar que este buena y en eso es que espero por favor me pueda ayudar. De antemano muchas gracias y disculpe lo largo de mi comentario. Saludos
I didn't see a kit for a Subaru. Do you recommend one? I was told my diode is bad.
Most Subaru being commonly Mitsubishi is not recommended for at home rebuild, just wastes everybody's time and money.
@@rebuilderinabox ok. Should I just get a Duralast? Thanks for the response.
@@rebuilderinabox says Fuji Industries on it btw.
Nice video but I your website doesn't work unfortunately when I tried ordering parts.
Thanks for the heads up. We have fixed the issue now. It was our hosting provider that dropped the ball and we had to suffer on lost orders.
The website provided here doesn't have shit. It's jenky. Go to maniac electric motors website, it's more professional.
Can you change the slip rings?
Not successfully at home.
Why is a voltage regulator the same price as a whole alternator? Ive looked everywhere the cheapest is autozone for $80 while a brand new alternator is $100
You're not shopping in the right place. Check our website. They're reasonable and come with the kit.
alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com
Is it required the drop the rotor on the floor possibly damaging it? lol
Stop, drop and roll.
Thx u thx u can u rebuild one for a 2001 honda accord 2.3l and make it a high output amp one plz
Who ever recorded this vdo understand the frames of each shot.
why dont you clean it
There should be diameter wear limit on the copper slip ring. The notion that still seeing copper is OK is wrong.
A worthy argument and true for for some (Ford) but not Denso or Delphi. We have studied this over the years and stand by our statement for 99%. Aftermarket brushes have a higher carbon content which slows copper wear down dramatically. The wear on a Denso OE will be 100% with 100k miles on some apps, but < 10% at 100K on others due to battery age and pollutants.
Where do you order the parts?
Rolando Marín Hdez alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com
@@rebuilderinabox thank you.
10:30 pry bar? LOL.. You need a bearing puller, that was nasty.
Please don't. Nasty would be the center piece of a puller messing up the copper slip ring by spreading it from center pressure.
Try it if you have one you want to waste.
@@rebuilderinabox i thought this glad i read comment
@@rebuilderinabox It depends on the puller obviously, but the right one's exist for the job !
Do NOT hammer on the plastic slip ring...
"When all you have is a hammer, everything else starts to look like a nail."
what is that NOISE...mercy
Not sure on the noise need a time reference to determine what it is. Did the video about 4 years ago and reuploaded it 2 years ago.
I believe you are referring to when he full fields the alternator
Alt. Renuil
Unfortunately you don't carry anything for toyota. Denso is the number brand that Toyota uses.
I can understand hammer and all but 12:00 socket extension on the huge diameter bearing? Come on .....; at least look around your shop for something better. These must be how street guys given hammer to tear down concrete walls.I would not go to this rebuilder.
This movie is part of a website that is designed by professionals but dedicated to America's working man in the trenches who may have limited tools and budget. We supply the parts and the exact video for the blue collar guy, so he can get to work with basic tools. See our
mission statement on our website. alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/about-us/
men your work is not safe....
Anything's possible but I doubt it. If you found one leave a link. The guys in the shop have been using Snap-on CG270 but we had to customize it by grinding off the bottom part of the legs and removing the centering piece and using a penny. (the recessed opening in the top is so small, any puller's shaft would bend before pulling the bearing) However, the penny with a CG270 is malleable enough to conform and pull without any damage to the plastic slip ring if the centering devise has been removed. PROBLEM is our site is dedicated to the average guy with basic tools. alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/about-us/. SOLUTION is pry bars. When used carefully, they work great.