Ignition Coil Primary & Secondary Resistance Testing
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- čas přidán 8. 05. 2016
- Link for New Ignition coil amzn.to/3qadVXP
Link for Multi meter get on here amzn.to/1Wj59mb
This video deals with How to test a Ignition coil on a honda gx120 but other coils maybe the same or very similar.
Primary coil resistance hook up 1 lead of the multimeter to the electrical tab and the other lead to the iron core making sure your meter is set to Ohms.
to check the secondary resistance hook up the multimeter to the iron core and inside the spark plug boot. Make sure readings are in the manufactures limits.
However I was suffering a phantom coil so sometimes this maybe tricking to figure out.
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I had very erratic coil resistances on my Echo coil. I came close to throwing in the towel and buying a new one for $80 but I thought I needed to understand how to remove the boot if I got a new one so I went through a dry run of removing the spring and boot and snipped off a little bit of the wire. Reinstalling the sharp point back into the into the wire and putting it back through the hole and testing solved the problem. Not sure but guessing the connection was poor there. Always redo the connection before getting a new one. Saved me $$$. Great video - thanks
You're the first person to come close to showing what primary and secondary mean. So thank you for that!
You say a coil can pass the test but still be bad -- I paraphrase, and perhaps even misquote -- for which, apologies. I seem to have the opposite!! It works --- only when I removed the kill wire (then had to kill the engine by closing the throttle) -- but when I did your test the primary was showing 1.2 (and continuity beep), the secondary was showing 7.5 ..pfeef..nothing.. I've just pulled the wire from the cap hoping to bypass any problems the cap or its fitting to the wire might be posing, and middle, the business part of the wire which is tiny just seemed to come apart. The wire and it's best sheath (I suppose?) seemed okay. I had tested the kill/on/off switch and that was okay. So these HT leads are deceptively fat -- mostly rubber with one tiny strand running through the middle. How come the prong(s) on the coil in the cap actually meet them??? Well, the wire is moulded into the coil so I shall now search to see if any brave soul has made that venture! The only place I can find a coil with 52mm centres is... China. Cheap but 3 weeks. Still using sampans out there?
Well, to make the story even longer, a few years ago I put an inline so-called spark tester in, pulled and the thing started! Removed the tester. No start. Did this several times, each time it would only fire up with the tester in! What would the neighbours think?! Can't remember exactly but think I ..yes, I removed the cap, just left the little fixing coil. Forgot several times to my shock when starting up bold it down the hard plug. Strapped a bit of rubber around it. Finally put a new plug on last week. Lent it to neighbouring farmer ladies working. Came back not. Thought I'd solved the problem when I discovered the bulb wasn't sucking up petrol -- broken pipes renewed.
THE END (with apologies).
After 1 week of specification searching this is the first video and documentation in general where I could find the coil resistance... The whole internet is void of this info... Nothing but generic codes... Thank you for this info!
What is the resistance for the coil on a Johnson TD-20???
It's a f***ing mystery man. None of this info is readily available. Nobody covers it on youtube. Try finding a pdf manual and you're paying some sketchy website more than it's worth. It's maddening. @@wornwadersmiller8081
Spot on brother. One of my coils was suspect; however, when tested, it would show that it was good. Your comment about a coil testing good, but still being bad was exactly my situation. Good video!
I had the same thing happen to me on my Mazda cx7 turbo the car wouldn't move at all we checked the coil packs they all worked so it was something that generated the coil before hand what is that called
Thanks for that info at the end of the vid, I had one doing just that. The spark would go weak after 10 minutes of running, gave the symptom of losing fuel. Changing the plug for a new one which made it run for longer was was the only clue to what was wrong.
Yeah, that can make a mechanic suffer. All the best to you and yours!👍
That's exactly what my sled is doing, just bought it, wouldn't idle properly cleaned pilot jet, ran good, then did it again wouldn't idle properly, cleaned pilot ran good, now it is doing something different, changed plugs , triple. Idles good runs good start to ride and it runs good, then starts to act goofy almost like running out of gas. kind of thinking could be coil now. super frustrating tho!
I'm in coil hell... I've three saws now that have good clean carbs, new plugs. When I spin the saw to see how much spark there is, I get reasonable spark. Once the plug is back in, the saws don't even kick, even with starting fluid. Not even a pop. I pull the plug, it's wet... which I believe is also a tell-tale.
All these saws were running great. While using them, they died, never to be started again. I need my big saws... I've tornado damage to clean up.
I just ordered new coils today... will see.
I appreciate you using a VOM... that's what I was looking for. Thanks.
Same thing here chain saws are funny that way
What was your problem? Saws running now?
The phantom coil you mention it seemed ok but was going bad.... coil packs are affected by heat. Usually they are cold when you test them with multimeter..... If you pop them in the oven at 100 deg C for 10mins and then test them, you'll find the phantom coil !!!
How do you tell which is primary side and which is secondary? Where can I find the specs for what the ohms should be? I have a 190cc 5.75 Briggs.
@@ke4ffo Please read my answers above....
It's a system that has been around for over a 100 years.
The "ohms" vary from coil to coil....but the differences are minimal.
If it makes a spark...it's good. If it don't..... Bin it.
If a coil can be bad after testing good why bother testing? Bad info only causes confusion and doesn't help solve the problem.
This is a great and old school bench test. If it tests well on the bench, that's where it's nice to have a lab scope to check spark firing patterns (automotive)
can you test it on the unit or do you have to take it off? GREAT STUFF!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for sharing, good to know. - take care
Guys, remove the plug cap before measuring the secondary coil resistance as plug caps like the one in the clip are usually suppressor types ie there to suppress RF (radio frequency) noise. That's the noise or video interference you hear/see on a radio/TV etc. These type of caps are either, zero ohms, 5 K (5 thousand) ohms, 8K or 10K. You should also check the plug caps are good, ie not open circuit or more than 10K.
i have a 89 ninja zx10, i have a dyna 2000 ignition on it and it has a red indicator light on it and i noticed when the light is on the bike fires up, when its not on it wont fire up. Checked my plugs and i get no spark, got a multimeter and checked coils, primary and secondary. Manual says primary should read 2.6-3.2 and it does, secondary should read 13-17 ohms. My coils are plugs 1 and 4 and 2 and 3, they both read 22-26 ohms, should changing my coils cause my bike to run again?
Thanks for posting. When they do go bad,don't they usually just read open? I see a lot of guys just throw on a new one without checking continuity.
Mine just shorts 0ut.
can you do this test with the coil still in place? or do you need to remove it from the engine? great video btw. straight to the point. You're my kinda guy
Hey love the video! I have replaced my ignition coil however when I short the coil it should turn off the engine. (Kill switch) but it doesn’t. I tested the kill switch and it’s giving ground to the coil. How would I test the coil? Any help would be great.
Excellent presentation and content, here!💯
I think my SRM 230 coil is bad. Pulled it. One side has a measurement of 330 ohm, the other side is 2.2k ohm.
Doing the sparky test yields no spark 99.9% time, gave me one tiny spark during one of the pulls, but it's mostly dead. The trimmer started like a champ for the season, but died within the first minute during warmup, then stayed dead. I also checked the Stop switch and wire inside the handle, and these look good and have continuity with switch is in Stop. Had to convince myself it was ok to buy a $43 OEM part.
2:00 how do you fix this bc this is what's wrong with mine
This is very interesting because I have been watch numerous videos and ppl are checking 2ndary differently. One person checks the iron core another checks the pin. So everyone isn't right
Great job
Where do you find the resistance needed to test the coils is there a website that list all the coils and shows the ohm reading requirements?
There is no such website: The resistance readings are really quite pointless.
These systems have been around as long as gasoline engines....
It's crude magnetic-induction/transformer technology.
Not Rocket science.
Sorry.
But it either generates a spark at the plug or it does not.
If it does: It's Good.
If it does not: It's bad: Bin it.
(The ONLY possible exception is that the grounding wire is touching "earth" somewhere:
Simulating a "Stop"...so....just disconnect the grounding wire!)
All these coils are basically the same:
It's pointless to "Check the manufacturer's specification" yes, they may vary by a few ohms.
But when they fail.... they are either open circuit or short circuit. End of.
This is not highfalutin technology...
This design & function has been around ever since cars had spark plugs.
Please...stop it, with your "Manufacturers Specification".
It sparks...or it doesn't.
Thank you for getting right to point
Thank you this was Actually helpful ! Now i understood the connections , ive been troubleshooting my freshly bought hva 444sg chainsaw from 1986 with no spark issues i already have a hva 44 from the same era with the exact same ignition coil that one works perfectly and the 444 had no spark at all after testing with the multimeter it actually reads almost the same digits ! So then i know there might be some Tore cables Or the Generator/alternator in the 444 sonil switching the generator to see what the difference is Hopefully i dont have to redo all wiring in the saw .
Thanks for the tip this saved me roughly 180$ for that igintion coil they only made that coil for the 44/444 Truly Annoying .
Regards Paul-Roger
If you've mowed 10 times this season, then both sides refuse to fire one day, what is the likelihood that it is both coils??? In the event that the coils are good, what are other possibilities ?? I have already inspected the magnet and done a small bit of sanding.. on a 2006 Lazer z I am guessing that it has one ignition pack to supply the coil pair... (???)
Where would one find the resistance specifications for a ignition coil for a Tecumseh OVRM 55 engine? I have found a replacement coil but how do I know the specs to check the old one. So far, the old coil has no readings for either the primary or secondary.
Hello
I have a chainsaw homelite 340, its coil ignition burns, I have not found on the market a replacement for the same model, can I use another model of a
other brand?
thanks for your vide
Could you please tell me where the 2 spark plugs are on the alstar boss 250cc ag
How many volts does that coil produce?
hi there i have a question for you i have echo chaisaw which i check the coil the primary give near 800 ohms and secondary 1.53 k ohms specs from says 200-400 ohms primary and secondary 1.5 to 2.2 k ohms is my coil bad ??? the saw wont start . thanks !
If specks say less than half of the resistance your meter shows, I would say replace the coil.
I was getting the same reading of 10.ohms and no spark, same exact looking coil on a Kohler RH265 engine
Thanks for the info, I had no spark with a new spark plug on a 1978 Homelite XL chainsaw and I suspected the coil. I just checked it with a meter and came up with 2.3 ohms on the primary and no reading at all on the secondary. I even took the plug wire out of the coil and put the lead directly to it. I guess it's time for a new coil but NOS coils for this saw run about $40 and I've read bad reviews about some of the cheap coils so not sure what to buy yet.... I'm researching coils now.
Jeff Stone .
How your chainsaw working now ? Did you replace with a new coil ?
Hi, I have a Mc Culloch ProMac 650 and it has a poor spark. How do I test my Ignition coil ?Thank you in advance.George
what is the resistance value of primary and secondary coil
I have a FL 822 Honda coil and i cannot find the reading specifications on this coil on You Tube or anywhere. It goes on a lawnmower engine, a Honda. I get 17.2 ohms from the spark plug end to the ground. Is this right?
Jerry, I have a question for you. I have a Craftsman leaf blower. The ignition coil, and the spark plug gets very hot and a little after I turn it off, it starts smelling to something burning and Smoke comes out fron that area. I replace the spark plug but it is about the same. I wonder if it could be the ignition coli that is worn out
um....no.
Bit high on primary side is it ok
On a gc160 honda when u try to start it it's backfires or spits through thr carburetor. The old coil checks at 18 to 19 0hms primary and secondary I say it's defective. The brand new one secondary reads 6.90 ohms the primary reads 000 so is this coil bad
Is it a bad coil if the tester shows spark but when the plug is installed in the tester and grounded I get no spark...bad coil? Used 2 new spark plugs, same problem. Any suggestions?
Where can I find the specs for a Kawasaki coil #21171-0711 on a FS600V AS1177 engine? Thanks for showing the testing technique!
I like to unscrew the wire and check separately from the coil. When testing the coil if it's acting up when the saw is warm only - just use a heat gun set on low and heat the coil - then test again I've caught many bad coils that way. Use Stens or OEM - the really cheap chi coils will fail 90% of time.
How do you get the specs for that certain coil
How do you get the manufacturer readings for a Strimmer coil
Bought my 80 cc online haven't a clue on manuf. specs don't know who made it but I've switched coils since but it's still dying in middle of my ventures so I'm peddling 3-4 miles back home to try again what the problem is ... How do I know which plug wire and cap and plug to use with the coils I have?
what would cause a coil to fail repeatedly within a short period of time after replacing it with factory parts not aftermarket junk? Thanks
Maybe say what may happen with a coil that reads high on the secondary.
How to make the coil works and the plug spark outisde the vehicle?
Cool job
Good informative little video.
Tumbs up for you from Pakistan.
I have a Echo hedge trimmer HC1500 what is the speck on the coil cause I cannot find it on the site
I have two sthil ms250 chainsaws. Both will not show spark. Have replaced one with a new one and still no spark. All wires appear to be correctly wired, I found the resistance specs in the owners manual, Resistance from spark plug boot to ground is 1.5 to 12k ohms and ignition lead to ground is less than 10 ohms.
Did you ever find the problem? Were the coils within specs? Working on a couple of husqvarna chainsaws also and can't find specs for coil resistance. Changed coils, spark plugs, checked for short on kill switch and wires, removed kill wire from coil, nothing is working yet. Been working on it for 2 days now.
My Echo trimmer would run for a while then die. Wouldn't re-start so I give it a 5-minute rest then it will crank again. Turns out the ignition coil was bad. After putting in a new one, it will now start every time after turning it off. I suspect something inside the coil would open the circuit when it heats up. So if yours have the same symptoms as mine if it's not the spark plug, it's the coil.
bygonebob this is the same problem I've had with a couple of pieces of my lawn equipment in the past, and something that the lawn shops will not tell you about because they just want to sell you new equipment, and a lot of people just don't know about this problem with coils going bad so they spend money rebuilding carburetors or replacing them and eventually throwing the equipment away and buying a new replacement.
check out Ken Bohn video How to check a magneto with a flashlight battery this way it take all the guess work out coil testing, you get a spark at the spark plug!
nice video. thanks
My power pro start and then shut off after few seconds. What is the problem? I got new spark plug and new carburetor and new gas.
DID a twin Briggs and coils test good no spark
Hi! Great video!
A couple of years ago I bought a BS power generator that has been running great until last week. It ran for 3 hours and then stopped and Doesn’t want to start up.
I put fresh fuel, I cleaned the carburetor jets (everything was really clean and brand new), I also tried spraying some gasoline through the carburetor and also with a a quick start spray without luck. The spark plug is making a nice and strong spark arc, the oil level is fine as well as the sensor. I checked all the cables and everything seems fine. I just don’t know what else to do! If there is spark (and a strong one) and there is fuel inside, why isn’t it starting?
Oh and when I pull, there seems to be good compression...
Any ideas? Thanks!
Eduardo, try another carburetor or another ignition coil, as well try to start without exhaust
Check the Woodruff key on the flywheel hasn't sheered
You could have a broken wire in the coil.
Years ago in my case I had a condenser that worked when it was cold, when it ran for a bit it stopped.
I bought a new condenser and no problem.
Just saying, coils have tiny wire inside and they can break.
Good video. You should let people know where to set there multi meter.
Exactly, it's the only reason I watched this video, I'm checking my coil but don't know how to set the correct setting on my multimeter
I have a GX670 that needs the left coil to be warmed up before it will fire, indicating bad wiring in the coil that connects once it warms up. Apparently this is a common issue with many Honda small engines.
c9148 coil specs?
happens to me too check to test its good but when it runs it goes bad and goes weak and missfires but at low speed its good at high speed it lose its power
I have a Husqvarna 325P4x pole saw. Very little (weak) spark and sometimes no spark. Just purchased a new oem coil from Husq. Now I get no spark. Any thoughts. Thanks.
Yeah. Buy a Briggs&Stratton. Not brilliant....But better than Husqvarna & Stihl.
At least in the carburetor department. And a great spark!
When they are right: They fire up & run like you'd want them to.
Stupid carbs on the Stihls & Husqvarnas..... so so so temper#$%&mental.
Hate 'em! ( Drive a good man to drink!... Like a bad woman.)
But, hey, seriously...I hate two-stroke engines in general
You should check with a Megger to tell if insulation breaks down.
w
When testing a coil it may show good when at room temp and go out of spec when it starts to heat up. You may need to put it in a toaster oven for about 5 minutes at 150 degrees and then redo the test. The coil can go out of range when it warms up, causing it to stop producing a spark.
Probably won't to use a heat gun instead,maybe a hair dryer
If the coil works when it is cool and dose not work after it warms up is most likely the expansion of the material as the coil warms up. To help explain, imagine a break in a wire which it in a tightly confined space (like wraps in a coil). While in the cool state the wire contracts which makes the connection between the broken piece(s) of wire but as the coil heat up and expansion of the materials pull the wires away from a sufficient contact. At first the coil may run within spec but as the it heats up the coil may fail right away, or lose power, backfiring and will eventually stop working and you and your Harley are stranded on the side of the road.
Ad to this you have to have the spacing between the coil and magneto, on the flywheel in proper spec. About 10 Thousands. Business card works .
why do you hide it under your sleeve? cant see what you did.
How much voltage goes into the primary?
I have an 80s Yamaha g1 gas golf cart runs good in reverse nothing in forward I have changed solenoids starter generator checked all wires and can't figure it out the coil is newer but don't want to buy another unless I know this can be the issue I hope so this cart has ran good for years my d9said it popped them nothing in forward but reverse runs good any one ever have a similar problem that could help me thanks
Current ramp with oscilloscope with coil firing or heat gun with multi-meter only reliable test . Cold test with multi-meter is not reliable like you said
How do i check with the heat gun
@@dbdb4274 You need a Darth Vader approved oscilloscope...tested and approved for use beyond earth's normal gravity.
But one that is not influenced by the heat guns self-generated field.
(But only Monday to Friday for optimum results.)
Surprised you asked....even a Space Cadet at Level 5 would know.
Are you, perchance... an intruder?......Mmmm?
Dude I came here for you to give me the specs I can’t find shit anywhere for this damn Kohler 1458404 coil
Would it be wise to also try testing the coil after it has been warmed up take the car for a little bit of a drive turn the car off and immediately test it that's it obviously you can't test it while it's running but this way you can test it when it gets hot because that's when the resistance can be lost
What does the primary do? Does it prodices low voltage?
That tab on the coil is for a grounding wire to make the motor stop quicker. Mine has a diode in series with each coil.
Good info !! Thanks !!!
Hi my ignition coil spark is jumping out the wire and hitting on a chrome plate I have a predator 212 do you no what it might be do I need to replace the coil ignition wire thank you
if you can replace the wire yes
It means you have a crack a cut or something in your wire that is letting the voltage escape and jump to ground so yes you need to replace the wire if you can or put some electrical tape or something on it to reinstate it so that it can't short to ground. Eventualy you'll have to replace the wire .
Reinsulate it not reinstate.
Damned autocorrect..
Also if you can't change the wire you'll have to buy a new coil. Sorry for all the add-ons. I think I finally got it to read asI wanted it to read...
I get 1.4 ohms on the primary and 6.4k onthe secondary. 590454 BnS coil. No spark whatsoever
Hi on my 08 Polaris 700 cfi on the pto side plug dose not fire when the boot is on and when I pull the boot off and hold it on the side off the plug is starts firing and runs properly and when I put the boot back on it stops firing Any ideas what's goin on there ???
Could be grounding itself out
jerry bskorner where do you think I should start looking first to find the problem?
can a multimeter read rpm from the coil i hz ?
Yes. But you need a good rms meter.(Noisy signal) . And only on the lo side. You can hook to the kill switch.
Tempreture increase causes expansion and wire to separate and loses it connection in that windings
Come on I'm trying to find out wher to put the leads, iron core ? Is that frame or ground thanks
Are you real?
If you need to ask...you are a danger to yourself....and mankind!
Have a brand new coil that shows no resistance/continuity on the secondary(plug boot to coil magnet) circuit.
So I had my dirtbike blown and then I unplugged the boot and plugged it back in and it started for a second hesitated then shut off what's my issue ?
Facepalm
@@61spindrift ---Ditto--- WTF, eh?
ty
just tested mine on a weedeater ultra-trim unit. wasn't sparking. I could feel a slight tickle when holding the plug while it was grounded to the head when turning it over. I cleaned the contacts on the coil and on the flywheel. reset the gap between to .010" but still not sparking. changed plugs.
I put a multimeter on the coil and when on Ohms setting, red to the metal on the spark plug boot, black to the metal part of the coil. registered 4.89. when I did the red on the plug-in clip for the kill wire, black to the metal part of the coil, register 224. that seem normal?
found the issue. wire was shorting out on the head from being compressed against it over the years of use. spliced in a new wire with new end clip and boot. sparking well again.
Good test after replaying a hundred times because your going so darn fast
Hi i have a when power 2200 generator it just died on me all of a suden i pulled the spark plug and tested to see if it had spark it only sparked once or twice very week spark. If the coil is bad doesn't that mean there would be no spark at all it ran great then just died .i need it cause we got hit bad by irma
In some cases if the coil is bad it may work until it gets hot. Imagine this, there is thousands and thousands and thousands of wraps of wire inside a coil and pack tightly together and sealed shut. If a wire breaks inside of these wire wraps, from running the coil heats up, when it heats up it pulls that broken wire apart and coil stops working until it coils back down. This ohms test is kinda of a joke as a check because it doesn't really tell you much. Like with a broken wire at room temperature, it touch's at the break and will give you a reading. Yes, I use it, but really don't rely to much on it.
Duane Dean. My 1996 Toyota Corolla suddenly dies after idling smooth for 20 to 60 minutes. I can tap the gas pedal to revive the engine, but 5 seconds later it tries to stall again. I wonder if you can heat coil with a heat gun to simulate operating temperature, and then check resistance.
THANX
I checked all the coils they all worked but the 4th coil pack isnt igniting what would that be?
A friend told me to get a ignition control modular would that be the problem from the last coil not working. Or could it be something else?
My mower will start and run just fine but it wont die even if I take the pig tail from the coils and ground them to the motor or any where else
Check your stop cable, usually the lever located on the handle bar, follow the cable towards the engine. Check for loose, frayed or kinked cable. Hope that helps.
What is the symtom for a bad coil?
Weak spark or no spark at all
Does it matter if the coil is on the chainsaw or whatever? Do I set the meter on 20K? What about if the coil is older and the wires are cracked or frayed? Does that matter?
More face palm.....
dont foget to check it hot say 250 . and not in a microwave
You can ring coil with a scope and it will show if even 1 turn is shorted.
why would my primary be at 23
This is not foolproof. Ignition modules have semiconductors that can go bad. The coils will measure properly but the spark will be weak. The spark may ONLY exist at high RPM. You need to have a good spark at pull cord speeds.
What is "a ignition coil"?
Yep, mine would be OK if the engine was cold, after it got warm, it would shut down. It would not start again till it cooled off. Finally, it quit altogether.
You need to make sure the sound is not dropping out
How bright spark should be? I bought one of those spark tester ($5 ~ $7 harbor freight) and it sparks ( orange or amber in color) every time I pull (about 100 times). But I can't get it to start.
sounds like a ground issue or wrong coil .. should be very bright sharp yellow blue color
Thanks for pointing out the problems I am having with this trimmer!
WHAT IS IT ON
Heat soak is often the issue