BMW Service - Para-Lever Rear Drive Removal & Installation
Vložit
- čas přidán 26. 03. 2013
- NOTE WRONG DATA: The ABS sensor specs stated in the video are WRONG for EVO brake (power brake) bikes and only apply to ABS I and ABS II systems. Sorry for the confusion - Please continue to read: How to remove the rear drive / final drive / bevel drive from your R850R, R1100R, R1100RS, R1100RT, R1100GS, R1100S, R1150R, R1150RT, R1150RS or R1150GS. WARNING: This procedure is the same for K1, 1992 K100RS, K1100RS, K1100LT, K1200RS & K1200LT but torque values will vary - CHECK YOUR CLYMER MANUAL CAREFULLY. Thank you.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
I don't even own a BMW but this has to be the best dam bike how to video I have seen yet. Great job.
I've been to a lot of schools in my life. From Harley mechanic to EMT-B and a ton of FF classes. You are one of the better I've listened to in my careers
Thanks, I think!
Same for me!
I have been a truck and bus mechanic for thirty years.. I find your videos very interesting and as I have purchased a 1150rt 2005 I am looking at maintaining it using your videos as a excellent guide. I've used quite a few now and I thank you for this. You've really helped me out. Regards Gareth from Yorkshire UK.
Thanks Chris. Easy to understand. I've got an '04 1150 RT and do all my own work so far. Last project was taking out the ABS. Just learning as I go. Thanks again for taking the time to post these projects. Really helpful for fellas like me :-)
Thanks, Chris.
Excellent technical presentation. Concise, clear and to the point. I am an old truck mechanic and need this kind of info to update myself so I can maintain my BMW motorcycle. Thanks for putting in the time and effort.Cheers,Roy
Thanks for writing Roy!
Learnt a lot from watching this video, had the rear crown bearing collapse last week.. Second hand bikes with over 110k miles.. (R1100GS 1995). It's been around Australia 3 times.. Will check out your other videos.. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience .
Thanks for taking the time to shoot this video. You saved me hours of work, hundreds of dollars and lots of cursing. Your 38 minute video will save me hours of precious time. THANK YOU!
I have just purchased a 1996 R1100RT and you have made working on it simple. Thanks for taking the time to film your actions.
Joe
Thank you Chris, just been working on this job this afternoon and found your video invaluable.
Glad to see that you are in better health and making new videos.
All the best.
Thanks, health is good! Take care Nigel.
Using the red locktite per BMW/Clymers and letting it sit for 20 minutes will hold the adjustable pin eliminating the requirement for a special tool. Mark the pin to ensure it does not rotate. Just another technique.
Great video Chris. Thanks. I’ll be removing my Final Drive on my R1150RT very soon for some repairs that need to be done to my bike. Before starting a repair job on my bike, I always check CZcams for one of your past videos that show step by step how to do it. I hope you’re doing great.
Thanks Chris, Great step by step tutoring, Love the honesty of your language . I feel more confident in replacing my "Bevel Box Bearings" in the next 2 weeks..Thanks.
Picture a pair of tuning forks. Lay both down end to end on a table so that the forked ends are at opposite ends. The forked ends should be a mirror image. You need to remove the swingarm to ascertain the position of the front yoke. Then you should mark (paint) the tail end of that shaft half and the front splined end of the other half of the shaft in the appropriate spot. Then you can line up the paint marks and install it correctly.
So informative. Was thinking of swopping the FD myself but after seeing the special tool, and gas burner decided to go to an independent bmw service. Thanks for the video Chris.
Thank you, Chris. Excellent tutorial. You made what could have been a daunting task very easy.
You spell it out Man! Thanks a ton! Looking over your shoulder I've removed/installed my final drive, rebuild the rear brake, pulled the can, redone the brake lines. Great Bikes Beemers, mostly. Holding on to mine thanks to You(tube)!!
Chris, great stuff. I just replaced my clutch on '98 R1100RT. I used the clymer manual but I wish I had found your videos first, they are really good! Should mention that if you do replace those bearings, you will need to freeze them to get them in.
Best lessons I ever view. Thanks for taking the time and making sense of how thing work in the real world applications.
Phasing is very important especially on the GS models. However, later shafts have one thicker spline that makes phasing simple... it only goes together one way. If you have a later model you'd need to remove the swingarm to see and properly mark the female end of the shaft to align properly with the stub shaft on the rear drive. Thanks for pointing this out. Remember too that these shaft tube outers are mounted to the inner portion with rubber. One good hole-shot and your shaft is out of phase.
What a legend! I've just lost half an hour of my life watching your video and I don't even own a BMW!
I lost more than that filming it so we're even!
Thanks so much for your videos 😊.
Got my BoxerCup back on the road again.
Following you since I got my R100GS.
You are the Guru 😊
This was a really cool video. Not something I have to worry about now-- but really appreciate the level of detail you went into. When/ should issues arrive with my rear drive, I'm confident I can use what's here to troubleshoot and/or solve the issue. Thanks!
Super detailed as usual. That is exactly what you want when you go into one of these jobs... These are the best BMW repair videos that I have seen available anywhere. I need to send you some money. :) Your project of having the best BMW video repair library available anywhere is coming along nicely. :)
Thank you! Contributions may be made via PayPal to nhbmwshop@gmail.com
You are very welcome. Thank you for taking the time to comment, Chris
I would not have had the confidence to tackle this job before seeing this video, but I just completed it and now have no leaks and no play. Thank you so much for taking the time to produce this video. For info, the swing-arm/gaiter stainless steel band clamp from the other models does not fit the 1150RT because it is 15mm too long, but it is possible to shorten it (cut/overlap/drill/rivet); it looks much neater than the black cable tie and is reusable. The final drive/gaiter band clamp from the other models fits without modification. I got mine from motorworks.co.uk
Thanks so much for sharing this Chris; your vid really makes the whole
process very clear. I'm about to inspect, clean and re-grease the pivot
bearings (and stub splines) on my '02 RT with 56,000 miles. I have just a
tiny bit of play, hopefully this will take care of it. I'll be sure to
verify the torques with the shop manual. I plan to mark the location of
the hub relative to the FD housing to ensure the shaft remains phased
upon re-assembly.
Regarding the rubber boot zip-tie, rather than use the special BMW piece, I have heard of folks just chaining two smaller ties together instead, so I will give that a try.
Speaking of phasing I did not notice Chris making sure the drive shaft was properly phased. Did I miss it?
Hi Chris!,
You make is seem soooooo god damn easy man: a +30min video would have cost to pay through the nose at a BMW dealer. Thanks for the video sir.
@Phill B: I did this repair with broken kardan shaft with the help of this video. I replaced the bearings of the the kardan housing and the rear end gear, bought a used, but good kardan shaft and had about 500$ repair (instead of 2.500$ at BMW). I learned to know my machine and have a nearly new drive chain for next 100.000km!
Well now I know. I really am impressed with the Guard Dog stuff the Beemer Boneyard sells, that and adding Tungsten Disulfide powder from Lower Friction. I should be able to go 20,000 miles before I have to do this again, but it will get done again when I do the whole thing all the way up to the clutch in a year or two. There was plenty of grease and it didn't dry out. It was still wet and all over the splines, completely well covered. That was at least 14,000 miles ago.
Thanks very much for this buddy, saved me a fortune having a crack at it myself.
Nice job Chris, its great to see a job done correctly.
You are a star here in GB.
I worked as a Chrysler tech and can remember some of the early video's,they would hint at disassembly and assembly,never showing the actual procedure and or tips.School is where we learned the in and outs by people that have worked on the product.
you rock man!!! Just used this video to adjust the pivot pin on my 1100rt. Walked me through just what I needed
Great! You're welcome.
Thanks again for this video. I can't believe it's time already for me to do this again. Everything I need to know, right here.
Have fun Ray!
This video is spot on as far as how to remove the bevel box. I removed mine- a 1999 R1100GS, in about 30 minutes using all of these techniques. {54,000 miles, crown wheel bearing making noise} Thanks a million and keep the great videos coming! {subscribed!}
Hey, Smokestack, more videos soon, thanks!
Great walk through of that repair. Makes life interesting. Keep up the good work.
Well Chris, from Portugal, thank you very much to you and your team. It´s outstanding what you've been done thru youtube! I'm learning so much and deciding what bike to buy. Keep the good work.
Chris: you briefly mentioned phasing the U-joints early in the video but there was nothing said about this important issue later, when you were actually re-installing the rear drive.
How did you make sure that joints were properly phased?
Also, may I suggest that you put the camera on a tripod or get Shaun to hold it when you are doing a two-handed task?
Very helpful, you are a living BMW encyclopedia, will come handy soon.
Good shit . . enjoyed the video . . I've worked with Bruno for years, send him all the final drives & driveshafts . . thank you & keep up the good work . .
Who ELSE rebuilds these FD assemblies???
Really enjoy your vids, Chris. Many thanks!
So glad I ran across your video's Thank you very much.
Thanks for this video and the whole BMW series. Very helpful.
Thank you Chris, again. Your videos are great info. Juha from Finland.
Yes, the frames were changed. Thanks for posting Garth.
P Stef: You should phase the driveshaft to prolong the life of the shaft assembly ($700). Note also that BMW suggests that these shafts are to be replaced every 40,000 miles. I have seen them fail at 42,000. But you can have them rebuilt by Bruno's Machine & Repair in Canada. Pivot Bearings: Yes, a heat gun will work. 260 degrees Fahrenheit is optimal. Good luck, Chris
Brilliant mate thank you. i always love your vids very professional
wow，what can i say,professional! i bought an old r1100r,it is a litle old,you know it is hard to see a video like this.good skill
good stuff chris,good of you to share your knowledge with others,most helpful..
You're welcome. Thanks for your comment.
Again, thank you very much Chris!! Your video are so cool, and very instructive!!
The design is not the problem. BMW has used this same rear drive since 1988 on the R100GS. The problems started with 2000+ model year in 2000. Quality control is the issue. Bruno builds these rear drives properly. I've sent over 130 rear drives to him in the past 10 years and not one has even leaked!
Dude!! Killer content! This is gold! Thanks for sharing the wealth. This is free education, kids! Pay attention!!
Thank you. More videos coming soon, Chris
chris...i really think that i have many to learn from you. Thanks from italy
Great Tutorial mate, thanks for taking the time to make the Video...Love ya style
That was helpful. Thanks. As always, thanks very much for presenting the video.
Thanks a lot for sharing your expertise and skills.
You are welcome. More BMW motorcycle service videos coming soon. Thank you, Chris
good video no b/s straight up very informative,,,,,,,,, i see in the backround nice shop ,
Again, I have to thank for a great instructional video!
You're welcome Hringhorne, thanks for writing!
Fantastic video, but I would still send my bike to the dealer, but great to watch....thank you.
Wow, Chris - You narrated, filmed, and worked in your own video?? That's talent!
Thanks for the detailed instructions!
+eric pretorious Thanks for watching. More coming this year.
great video, bout time really. Thank you for the upload
Chris, that is realy useful!
Thanks for posting!
Great video full of useful information as always
Why, thank you, good sir!
EXCELLENT vid, Chris. THANK YOU for going to all the trouble. VERY well done and easy to follow and understand.
Question: is it possible/feasible to replace just the pinion seal WITHOUT removing the ring?? This looks do-able by removing the nut and compression ring, the hooking the seal out. Some P-80 will get the new seal in easily. Only 13K miles on this '99 R1100S that I bought 4 months ago. Doing this will not upset the pinion-ring gear lash or require the 33 1 700 tool.
Regards
every now and then on youtube i see a source of information that appears reliable , fucking reliable, i dont give a shit about profanity. i do give a shit about information i will use to affect the potential longevity of the owner/operators life or not . lock tite is your friend only use it when specified in the factory service manual ...always use it when specified unless you truly understand the process you are affecting. if you dont understand this statement you are in way over your head....
1999: BMW instructors informed us lowly techs to cease using thread-locker on the Para-Lever pivot pins per order of BMWAG. Thread-locker was applied at the factory as insurance . If you trust your work you don't need it in this application.
Excellent, helpfull as usual. Thanks Chris
Chris: I received the 27mm Diesel Injector Socket from The Tool Academy in England. (Laser part #3298). This will set the 27mm locknut on the paralever adjusting pin on the late model airheads (92 to 95) with Paralever, and allow proper pre-load. It also will fit the swing-arm pivots on all airheads without grinding or modification. It has a window in the side which allows an Allen key to hold the pin for proper pre-load setting. $30 mailed from England.
You need to mark the driveshaft when it is out of the swingarm. With the shaft on your table phase it and mark both parts of the rear shafts.
Thank you Chris,very helpful video !
Says it as it should be said. Love it.
Thank you Ronald!
Excellent information on charcoal canister. I gotta change the sight oil window it is leaking and white looking.
good video chris keep it coming !
Thanks again for a good and useful video!
You are quite welcome, thank you for writing!
Where BMW calls for 7 nm on a Para-Lever pin raise that to 10 nm and the bearing will last much longer.
Super helpful - thank you!
Отличное видео !!!
Great tutorial , subscribed 👍
Love these videos, learning a lot, thanks! Could you get Shaun to hold the camera though while you work your magic?
Great video many thx
Brilliant precise info and tool specs to go with it... First class!!!
Thanks for the video, excellent ! Regards from Chile
Thanks.
I search the composition of this grease to see if it's good.
I am humbled. Thank you.
this guy is great
Chris i love your videos! Like your manner of speaking and being blunt. Where is your shop so i can bring my bike to you!
Fantastic! Thank you!
Hi Chris, from the future, it's 2022! My GS driveshaft let go at the front, they are not all te same GS has a heavier spline... I had folk helping me out, and reassembling it so trying to find instructions for the spline clips, and the front boot/clip. Sure isle figure it out.
You are welcome.
Hey Chris. Great vid man.
I hope I never have to do this job, but good to know how in the "unlikely" event.
+chopper Thanks
Oh go ahead and sell the chopper and get one of these. You'll enjoy doing this. Chris' videos make it easy.
Thanks. I have a video about changing the sight glass. Good luck, Chris
great video. thank you.
You're welcome!
Thanks Garth!
funny and informative.. laughed as much as I learned..
Thank you Chris for this great video! It is right to the point.
I'm curious; you mention not using synthetic oil in the engine. Have you done a video on this? There is so much debate on this issue.
Eric
Love this guy
Thank you!!
Thank you!