BMW Service - Cam Chain Tensioner Replacement
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- Replacing the cam chain tensioner on a 2002 R1150RT
04/2020 - Replacement Available Here: www.beemerbone...
or # 11 31 7 659 922 and # 11 31 7 688 629 and # 07 11 9 963 308 from BMW for over $40 more!
** I DO NOT SELL MAIL-ORDER PARTS **
These are spring 2013 BMW dealer retail prices in the USA
11 31 7 688 629 Cylinder, Left $30
11 31 7 656 922 Piston, Left $60
07 11 9 963 308 Gasket Ring size = 18 X 22 mm copper or aluminum $.50
** I do not sell mail-order parts. **
Because of these "Chris Harris" videos I've been able to change my oil, replace cam chain tensioner, replace fuel filter, adjust the valves & switched out the fuel quick disconnects. I plan on replacing the alternator belt and changing gearbox & final drive oils in the near future. I would not have been able to do most of this maintenance without these videos. Thanks Chris, for taking the time to put these out videos, they are much appreciated.
If you have saved a fortune because of Chris, then consider a donation through paypal
He is the man ! Great family ethos witch I envy ! As a single man business I struggle to comprehend what he has done !
I was disappointed by the language until my wife pointed out that I sound like that when I'm in the garage. Good video.
Cha i'm usualy swear in russian , though im not Russian but that works more efficient :D
I am very thankful man ...! I was able to do it ... was scared as shit but did it .. and yes old tensioner is 17 and weaker ... a pain In the a&&&& get that nut out .... I hope bike doesnt fail now ... hahahaha. Thanks for your wonderfulfucking video ..! May the force be with you. ..!
Another helpful video I used to replace the left tensioner on my newly acquired 1995 R1100R. I was able to get a short 15mm socket and ratchet on the new unit for tightening. In two months of ownership, using your videos, I have replaced the brake pads, brake lines, fuel filter, removed the evap canister, adjusted clutch free play, and replaced the spark plugs. Thank you, Sir.
Ricky, you are quite welcome! Stay tuned for more info for your R1100R, Chris
That is a great question! I should have mentioned in the video that it does NOT matter what position the flywheel is in when you replace the left cam chain tensioner. Thank you for asking & Happy Thanksgiving, Chris
Getting the little bugger out was a lot harder for me than shown in the video...the plunger would not stay down in the hole so the assembly was too long to get out. Finally figured out that bouncing it up and down a few times would cause the plunger to stay down in the hole, allowing me to pull it out (though the spring was still fighting me. Also, this is possible without notching the wrenches, but s.l.o.w.e.r.
There is no need to change the right side tensioner as it is installed inverted (top down) so it retains oil pressure better than its original left hand companion.
I have 130,000 miles on my R1100R. I also have original cam chain tensioner with 17 mm head. I have not noticed cam chain rattle. The only time I hear crazy rattle noise is the during the first start up after an oil change. I still plan on doing the upgrade to be on the safe side. Thanks again Chris for a great video.
Update: I just started up my R1100R. This time I put in my hearing aids. Yes, I can hear the cam chain rattle. Normally I don't ware my hearing aids while riding. Also I normally put my helmet on before starting the bike. This is why I never noticed the cam chain rattle before. I will install the upgrade ASAP. I sure hope the cam chain guide isn't already damaged.
Update 2: After I installed new cam chain tensioner, I found that I still hear a rattle noise. Noise doesn't appear at idle. Noise occurs when I turn the throttle slightly. On closer inspection I found the vibration was coming from left throttle body. I have obtained the Dan Cata Throttle Body rebuilt kit. I plan on doing a some studying on how to rebuild throttle bodies and adjusting throttle body position sensor. I also purchased the Enduralast upgrade kit for the fuel injectors.
@@JohnDoe-bf1fw how did the Dan Cata TB rebuild kit work out for you. Difficult to do? I also need to do it, my right side is very noisy. Thanks
THANKS CHRIS. JUST DID MY R850R AND WITHOUT SWEARING AND HEAVY BREATHING. IT TOOK JUST 20 MINS. EVERYTHING WENT EXCEPTIONALLY WELL, THANKS TO YOUR GUIDANCE
To push the new one down when installing I put a 15mm socket on top and pushed THAT down with the screw driver...threads caught in about a minute (after SEVERAL working with just fingers).Thanks for the videos - I've learned a lot.
I did mine today and after watching your you tube video i removed and fitted a new one on my R1150GS 2003 she runs sweet as a nut Thank You Chris Harris.
You're welcome.
Hi Chris, I just replaced the cam chain tensioner on my 2000 R1100s. Your video was a great help. There are 2 screws on the air box that doesn't allow you to push the air tube back unless you take them out on the R1100 s. I do not see them in your video of the 1150RT or I'm sure you would have mentioned it. Thanks BMW for keeping things inconsistent! Regards David
Hello David, Those 2 screws on each tube were placed there for a reason. When the R1100 S model was released a few made it to the dealerships while the m/c press intro was going on for this model. Picture this shit show: A bunch of motorcycle press jockeys that are used to Japanese bikes all converge upon the new BMW R1100S. These guys like to rev and blip their throttles like uninformed children. Suddenly a pop and one 'S' catches fire. Then a couple more burst into flames. When the throttle is rapidly opened and closed with the engine not under a load (think neutral at a stop light) the pressure blows back popping the throttle body off the head and severing the fuel feed line. Yup, POOF! BMW's solution was adding 2 sheet metal screws to the tube at the airbox on each side. This was a Technical Hold Order and the bikes were not to be sold until this 'remedy' was effected. Then we had to hold the bikes for 4 more weeks because there were no English owner's manuals printed and it was against US law to sell a new vehicle w/out the owner's manual. It was a real shit show introduction for a fun littler bike that was marketed to the completely wrong crowd.
As a new BMW owner these are extremely help full videos, I will be replacing my left tensioner cheap insurance!.
Thanks a million
Just want to say that I truly appreciate your videos. They help me a lot in taking care of my BMW motorcycles.
Thanks Chris. Replaced the cam chain tensioner on my R1150 GS today in under 15 minutes after watching your video. In Ireland we say feck by the way
Good job Victor!
The clatter that you hear from a K bike is not the cam chain. It is the gear clusters at the rear of the engine in front of the transmission. The crankshaft idler gear driving the clutch reduction shaft, starter gear, alternator gear, etc. There are plenty of K100s running around with 200,000+ miles and original timing chain rails. Listen closely and I'll bet you'll find that your noise is at the back of the engine. Thanks, Chris
it might be helpful to hear the bike run before and after so as to differentiate from other problems such as loose valves, lifters, worn throttle bodies, other vibrations etc. - great videos, thanks much.
Hey maybe a video on all the sounds 1979 BMW R1000RT are not suppose to make!
Nice video. My 2002 RTP had a 17mm cam chain tentioner failed on my motor at about 82K. The result was broken cam chain stays. Plastic pieces in the oil. A derailed cam chain. And, possibly bent valves and a clogged oil pump. I am in the process of replacing my motor as a result.
That is a less than pleasant task. Good luck, Chris
Thanks for this video as well. I'm about to do this bit myself, and now I know just how much fun I have in store for myself.
Spot on repair. Bike is as quiet as can be at startup. Took me about 25minutes. Thanks for the video.
Hi Chris, I have a 2002 r1150RS that has 127,000 miles on it and that still has the original crappy tensionner. I have ordered the new one and should do the swap in a couple of weeks. Just wondering if I let it idle a while before taking off, the clacking takes about 3 secs to stop. Is it safe to ride the bike till I get this thing fixed.? Thanks for your video as I would never have been aware of this issue.
Also love your to the point humorous commentaries.
Any BMW should either have them in stock or at least be able to order the 3 parts for you:
11 31 7 688 629 CYLINDER F CHAIN TENSIONER, LEFT Qty. 1 - $27.87
11 31 7 656 922 PISTON LEFT Qty. 1 - $55.56
07 11 9 963 308 GASKET RING - A18X22-CU Qty.1 - $0.50
Good video. Took me 15 min the whole job. Easy and without bad language. Old tensioner is 17 millimeter. New is 15.
DONT YOU NEED TO PUT THE ENGINE IN TOP DEAD CENTER?
The R1150RT is a great bike once you resolve the clutch issue and are aware that the rear drive and servo-brakes might need attention later on. Good luck in your search for a new ride.
Funny how that works. I had one here that didn't leak for 20 miles. Thanks for your comment, Chris
Thanks for this video. I've got the parts to do mine. Just have to wait until the glacier melts out of the driveway.
Roy
2002 R1150R
Hi Chris, just replaced the camchain tensioner on my 2004 1150 GSA SE. Ive had the bike since 2012 but I noticed that the old tensioner which had the larger nut size - didn't have a spring inside but there was resistance in the cylinder action. Any thoughts? I thought the older ones had springs. Really helpful videos, thanks buddy. Stan - Germany
same for me, no spring inside the old one (17mm)
Hi Chris, love your videos. I replaced my cam tensioner about 1000 k's ago. In about the last 200 k's, I have engine oil all over the left leg of the centre stand and the side stand. It looks like it is coming from the cam tensioner. I made sure it was clean before installing the new one. But after removing it, I found little bits of dirt under the washer. I thought that it would have showed up quicker than that, or were else could it becoming from thanks. Marc
Chris, just FYI, I thought I would replace both right and left tensioners so, going by what another youtube BMW "mechanic" (I'm sure you know who it is) said, I bought two of them. He said the right and left were the same part. NOT TRUE. Two completely DIFFERENT parts. I tried to replace the right one and it stopped screwing in. Too long. Just thought I would mention it incase you wanted to add that info into your video. Now I have to try to get my $85 back from Euromotoelectric.
You got good experience working with your fingers, your wife must be very happy ! 😂
Always enjoy watching your videos!
Thanks!
Yes, I have a very happy wife ;)
Good, detailed videos. Very much appreciated, thank you good sir. Would bring bike to you, but there's an ocean in between. Watching these is the next best thing.
See my other channel: www.patreon.com/user?u=25101320 Thanks.
Great video. I'm looking into getting a used motorcycle soon and was considering the R1150RT. This tensioner removal and replacement seems easy enough. If I do purchase one, I'll probably be interested in one of your modified clutch discs. Thanks again.
Thank you for reply Chris. I visited your site and read all about your relationship to the newer BMWs. Very educational, specially about the newer BMWs. FYI the Retella T6 was just certified as JASO MA rated for use in motorcycle engines. It is right on the back label. Your videos are great and I am in MA so I will someday visit your shop, at least I hope.
Thanks for the video. I just changed mine. Extremely easy job thanks to your video. Your videos are great. Pleae keep up the details. Very nice. I'm going to sign up as a patron.
Good video it gave me a couple of laughs to hear the swearing in the background, as that's how most guys are when fixing bikes 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks!
I don't work on K1200's much but I'll film (as much as time allows) whatever we get into the shop. I recommend Shell Rotella for all diesel engines. For gasoline engines I use the proper Spectro 4 non-synthetic which was formulated specifically for BMW many years ago.
i like the cussing...reminds me of myself when doing work on my GS :-)
Im having trouble getting the old one out. I was able to loosen the nut and back it out but I cant angle it to get it out...What the hell. Any advice I been at it for over an hour now wiggling it, angling it in diffrent positions seems like it wants to stay.
It makes quite a difference! Thanks for your comment.
After I installed new cam chain tensioner, I found that I still hear a rattle noise. Noise doesn't appear at idle. Noise occurs when I turn the throttle slightly. On closer inspection I found the vibration was coming from left throttle body. I have obtained the Dan Cata Throttle Body Rebuilt Kit. I plan on doing a some studying on how to rebuild throttle bodies and adjusting throttle body position sensor before attempting procedure. I also purchased the Enduralast upgrade kit for the fuel injectors.
I feel like I’m right at home working along side my grandfather lol
Great!
I had wondered about this. The folks over at that BMW place said I should replace both, so I bought both. I have never heard the chain slap on the right side though, so I wondered about it too. - Thanks
Thanks & Yes, they are the same for all Oilhead & Chromehead models.
Yes, the base of the tensioner can be seen w/ the left cover off.
Does the engine need to be at TDC or any special position?
thanks man. I appreciate your fast response and love your videos. we are lucky to have you sir
Thank you!
Excellent! I'm glad I was able to assist. If you ever need to remove it make sure you see my video about re-installing the cam chain tensioner.
when i removed the tensioner, there was no piston. i tried to find it with a magnet grabber. nothign in there. No spring. No piston. But then I put the new tensioner in, and started the bike and sounded just as noisy. so i removed the new tensioner, and the piston is gone. What did they go to?
I just received an upgrade kit from Ted Porter’s “Beemer Shop” Scotts Valley ca.. everything BUT the freaking spring!!-or so i thought- i didn’t squeeze the plunger...
Doh! Just got a call back! On Sat. @ 8pm! - the spring is in the plunger if you will- no visible spring in the BMW fix one -
Correct! Old style had 3 parts, new style 2. Take care.
Thanks! The bastard leaked after a few miles too so as I said in the video... CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN the surface. When you think it is clean, clean it some more. Then test ride it for 10 miles.
Hi Chris - it's probably unlikely that you will read a comment on a video this old, but I thought I'd ask anyway - on my R1150R it sounds like cam chain rattle at idle, but only when the engine is hot (never when cold). Is this still likely to be a tensioner issue or is there something else at play here? Cheers, Andy.
Consider taking off the part above the tensioner to afford yourself better access with a ratchet and socket.
Great video, Thanks. I have a cold startup rattle on the left side of my '99 BMW 540i v8, I was researching video advice when I ran across your video. Your comments give me the idea I might be chasing down the same spring. I don't even own a bike, but watched your entire video because it's very informative and fucking entertaining. Thanks!
fantastic, simple and bloody entertaining, i bet Mr bmw doesnt like your vids mate :) i love em save me a fortune , love from England man god bless America :)
Does the left cylinder have to be on TDC before installing the plunger or it doesn't matter and you just drop it in?
You're very welcome. Good luck, Chris
Hi , Why only change the left tensioner? Is it because the left compensates enough for the right not to be changed?
I have never damaged the chain. The slide rail should also be fine. You will need a 2 foot tube added to your 1/2" drive breaker bar. Have one person hold the rear brake while the transmission is in 1st gear and put some muscle to the breaker bar. It'll break free.
I don't know why I didn't hear about this. I knew the noise was coming from the cam chain area, but assumed it would be a teardown to get at it. The bike had 200k+ km and was generally worn out so stopped riding it.
nice to see you have so much joy in what you do :)
Can't wait to do this sitting on my garage floor! 99 r1100rs 48k. TY
Update changed out part this morning in about an hour thanks to your vid.
Excellent! Thank you for writing, gary.
I used to think.BMW were dam near maintinace free after see all you videos look like they break a lot and not cheap repairs .
Hi, So you need to remove the cylinder head and to do that you need to remove the bolt that holds the cam chain sprocket on, correct? That is easy. Transmission in first gear, Apply pressure to the rear brake pedal and break the cam sprocket bolt free. Then, before you remove the sprocket, run a wire through one of the small holes in the sprocket and over the chain. Twist the wire and then remove the sprocket from the camshaft. See my video titled BMW Service - Cylinder Head Removal Part 4 of 8
I tried to get out the old one on a F650GS but the bolt is stuck, I even chipped it a little, the ABS and oil lines are right in front of it! I cut out a piece of the oil line and replaced it with tubing (it's a usual "upgrade"). I somehow have to get a socket wrench on it, maybe cut one shorter to fit
Thank you.
Hi Chris,when you replace with the upgrade tensioner does it matter what position the cam chain is in,cheers very helpful videos,watched most of them,keep 'em coming.
Chain position does not matter. Remove the old, clean the sealing surface if the cylinder head and install the new tensioner with a new crush seal. Thanks & good luck.
Hellow Chris. I'am Otto from Patagonia Argentina. I have the 1150 GS Adventure 2003. Have you video to change tensioner of the Rigth Cilinder?
6:19 How DO you know? ;)
Going to do this on my 00 1150 ... I replaced the spring 10 years ago, but time to replace the entire unit.
Thanks again Chris!
R
Yes. The old style has a 17 mm head and the new style a 15 mm head.
there is one in each head? they are the same
Always entertaining watching a disgruntled mechanic. 😆
Reminds me of the old saying, "profanity is a sign of a limited vocabulary"
Your mother would be proud.
WHAAAAAAAA
You should try doing this job yourself and see if you don't end up cussing like a sailor by the end of it.
And manners maketh a man. Congratulations to your mother too.
Just did my 1998 R1100rt. Why did I wait so long? Sounds nice now.
chris, thanks for taking the time to make these videos
Love the commentary !!
I have the death rattle only when bike is warm. not when cold at all. will replacing this part help that problem or does this indicate a different problem? thanks
No, you likely have other issues. Excessive rocker arm end - play, defective pushrod, bad bearing, worn throttle body or out of synchronization... the list is long. Good Luck
Hi I am replacing the came chain srockets . But the bolts are stuck , They are 8 mm allens
If you can help thanks
Great video, took me only 15 minutes. I recommend you post the TB o-ring part as mine was swollen and was not reusable (exposure to blowby oil possibly). BTW - can you see this tensioner when you have the left cylinder cover off for a valve adjustment by chance? I want to check my work and wonder if I can get eyes on easily this way...
Hello Chris, Your videos have saved me hours of grief on several different jobs on my '96 R850R and I can't thank you enough ! - I followed this one to replace my L/H cam chain tensioner, went fine and no more of the so called 'Death rattle' so all was well. 3 months later I changed my engine oil and filter as part of routine maintenance (Motul 15w50 mineral oil used) and straight away the 'Death rattle' has returned on start-up - What do you think may be the cause ? Can the new type tensioner malfunction (looks almost too simple to go wrong..) or could the oil I'm using be too thick and the tensioner isn't repriming after draining the oil ? - I realise this video is over 5 years old now but we're still using them out here so hopefully you'll pick this up and have the time to reply as I'd be grateful for your opinion before I spend on another new tensioner !.. JJ. (UK)
Hello James, I have heard of one tensioner becoming weak. Change it again and see if your problem goes away. Beemer Boneyard has tensioners now: www.beemerboneyard.com/11317656922cuk.html
Hello again Chris, thanks for taking the time to reply - You've confirmed my suspicions that it is the tensioner that is duff, I didn't really have much faith in my oil grade theory as the grade I'm using is within the current UK temperature range as quoted in the BMW owner's manual. I'll get a new tensioner ordered and fitted and hopefully it will cure the problem. Many thanks for the advice, it's greatly appreciated ! - Best wishes, JJ.
Good luck and post a reply with your results if there's time.
Likely that you upper left chain rail is broken. Unfortunately, you'll need to dig deeper to verify the problem.
Thanks Chris
You're welcome Jamie.
Chris, i have the old style tensioner assy. Can I re-use the original cylinder, and only purchase the piston and a new crush washer?
Thanks...steve
What whit the other side Chris
Is there a chance of breaking the chain , or the chail slide
We had put alot of force on that bolt already ,
Would this develop as a ticking noise after an oil change?
Thank you very much for the answer and détails for order.
Sounds like a Harley Davidson mechanic working on a BMW. lol good video
Thanks, I think. Stay tuned; there's more if you're interested.
Chris, great video, thank you for taking the time to make all your videos. I have a question about the Cam Chain Tensioners. When do you know they need replacing? My 02 R1150RT clatters when I crank it then calms down after a 30 seconds or a minute. Is that the cue to look for?
it has 53,xxx miles on it and I am the fourth owner. All the maintenance records give no indication the tensioners have ever been touched.
No Oilhead came from the factory with the replacement chain tensioner. The replacement chain tensioner came from the R1200ST model. You only need to replace the left side tensioner. Happy New Year, Chris
I have a 2004 R1150GSA which i bought new and made my own mechanic all its life, i checked today the chain tensioner that is installed on it and found that it is the 15mm head one. Looks like your statement had some exceptions. BTW i have changed it as it seem it started to have some wear that makes it working bad.
Hey Chris -
So the Cam chain tensioner replacement on the left side of my R1150GS went like butter - thanks to you. I am looking at teh right side, and imagine I need to drain the oil before changing this one - am I correct? - Thanks in advance.
Hi Chriss thanks for the videos entertaining and usefull . I have a r1100 rt 97 engine wont start . saw that the cam chain his verry loose . can it be only the tensioner to replace ?
I like the vids, very informative without the B.S. Just a question though, could this tensioner also be a problem on a 2005 r1200gs? Noisy at startup and a lot of predetination sound under acceleration, almost like low octane fuel?
Yes,, the upgraded tensioner was introduced on the R1200ST model but your '05 might not have received it or it might need to be replaced regardless. Good luck: www.beemerboneyard.com/11317656922cuk.html
the more aggressively you swear the better you feel when you get the job done
You know!
Hi CHRIS, hello from TUNISIA and thank you very much for your help. Do i have to do the same thing on the right side? Thank you.
You do not as that tensioner is constantly bathed in oil.
My bmw has the same issue with 53000km, wich is a tipical issue in this engine
how many miles to replace this? I've an 1150rs from 2002. Now 82000km... the chain make lot of noise...
Is there a way to tell from looking on the outside if your bike has the upgrade? Thanks Greg
Thanks, very helpful, got me in and out of the garage quicker!
Cool, that's the purpose. More riding time! Take care, Chris
Hi Chris when do we need to replace the cam on the right side too ? Why only the left?
thank you
Fab Pag The right side tensioner doesn't rattle because it's is at the bottom of the cylinder, so it's inverted and retains the oil when the engine is stopped. The oil drains out of the left one though so it rattles until oil is pumped back in....
What Thumper said!
@@ChrisR.Harris hi bud, today i changed my left side cam chain tensioner piston and also the new steel pushrods. Did the upgrade tensioner 3 years ago but changed again just to eliminate. As i had friends around we all listened and they say its definately the right knocking NOT the left :-(( after warmed up and always after throttling off,is it even possible it could be the right tensioner? 2004 1150rt 52k twin. I bought extra steel push rods too just in case. I must say its a bit daunting doing the head at 20nm then 90 + 90 degrees ..... bearing in mind ive not removed the head so original gasket too
@@dougiedickson8221 It could be a weak right side tensioner. Change it and see. Thanks, Chris
Of course!
;-)
Thanks for your reply!
I love your comments. Good video
Thank you. Stay tuned for more, Chris