Jeez Chris, you are truly providing a GREAT public service here. I'm not a mechanic, and I would NEVER even consider doing something like this on my own! However, with your guidance and excellent videos I have started doing these chores myself, amazing my wife and everyone else who knows me, and saving lots of $$$. I'd be proud to buy you a beer someday!
Brother, you have the BEST Oilhead videos, anywhere, and are my go to 1st choice when seeking guidance of how to go about doing a service, or repair, on my R1150RS. Thank you, bro, you're the best!
Chris, I can't thank you enough for making all of these videos. Quite a bit is over my head but you take the mystery out of the simple things like tire removal. I just wanted to drop you a line to show some appreciation. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Whew! So glad you gave your blessing for copper anti-seize Chris. Because I live near the Pacific Ocean and have spent a lot of time in boats I have become paranoid about corrosion and electrolysis. I have been using anti-seize on my wheels for years, but I have been a little nervous about ignoring the warnings given in the usual manuals to put the bolts in dry, or risk them losing torque and backing out. I am reassured now that I've seen you do what only makes sense to me.
Hello Chris, Being French, I want to apologize because I use a translation "Google" to speak in your language! I am the proud owner of a BMW 1150 RT 2004, this is my second bike BMW 1150 RT, the first was 2001 and had 168,000 kilometers, it has 118,000 kilometers. Grace to you, and your videos, I got to know my bike, I learned to take care of and maintain, your videos are doing very well and take the time to dwell on points important, but your videos I will never come to give a new breath to my motorcycle, I thank you very much for your help. I think the proper functioning of a motorcycle depends on several important points, elements that are dependent on each other, I'm referring to; ignition, distribution and carburetion to name a few, there's The few areas that you do not have to address, but it y'en 2, it seems to me you: 1 - How to adjust and optimize the ignition from the Hall effect sensor? 2 - How to adjust and optimize the carburetion, through synchronization of butterflies, among others? I am already looking forward to seeing a video on each of the themes !!! Thank you again Eric ericdpz@gmail.com
Chris, It's time to replace the tires on my bike and I discovered another great series of videos you posted on how to remove/balance/reinstall the wheels on my 2002 BKW R1150RT. Love your videos, especially the ones pertaining to oilheads. With so many RT's on the road, your collection of videos are like golden nuggets. Thanks man for all you've done. Much appreciated.
This was extremely helpful with my first tire change on a recently acquired r1150rt. Taking off the rear wheel seems simple enough, but it is very often the case that nothing simple is easy. Seeing you walk through the steps and stress the bits that get overlooked gave me a lot of reassurance. It really can be simple _and_ easy when you pay attention to a couple little details. Brilliant videos, Chris! Thanks for the fucking candor, too!.
Thanks a lot for taking the time to video all of these mysteries man. You really have a way of bringing this stuff down to it's lowest common denominator to where a non-mechanic like myself can make sense of it all. Awesome!
The Oilheads balance nicely. If you want to add a strap from the front wheel to the cross-bar of the center-stand to prevent the stand from collapsing if the bike gets nudged forward that is not a bad idea.
It should have a very thin spacer/shim. Not as thick as the old K & Oilheads with 3-spoke wheels though. The handling traits without the shim are easier left cornering but sketchy right turns due to the tire being slightly right of center-line. Thanks, Chris
Thanks. I realized that doing a quick wheel removal search on CZcams. Gotta know the basics and that is why I did this short video series. Thanks, Chris
Chris. Enjoyed your video. You showed some really good pointers and appreciated the hint on not removing the exhaust. Enjoyed the straight forward no bullshit way of how you work and the humor of no phone in the shop. I am an aircraft maintenance technician for a major airline and know my way around tools. But appreciated your reminder to put the torque wrench back to a minimum setting. First time owner of a BMW motorcycle(2007 1200 GT "Flying Brick") and trying to get any info I can on these beautiful machines. Will be watching more of your videos to get a better of how to work on my ride. Thanks. Bill F.
Excellent !! I'm new to riding and I just bought a 05' R1200 ST ..I'm going on an extended bike tour with it and this is the stuff one needs to know when miles from a shop or garage.
If you wonder if you need a spacer behind the rear wheel, try riding down the road and taking your hands off the bars, and see if it goes to the left or right. Think about center of gravity. Do you have to lean to the left or right to go straight down the road with your hands off the bars? If so, you may need some kind of spacer.
Thanks Chris! Another excellent video, and I completed the task without a problem after picking up a nail on a recent ride. After watching a couple times it was 10 minutes off and 10 minutes back on.
Thank you very much for this video, it helped me a great deal and I’m extremely grateful for you taking the time to show this so clearly. Because I’m not as confident with these things I did feel a lot better putting a ratchet strap between the front wheel and the center stand just so I didn’t have to worry about rocking it off the stand when getting the wheel loose.. the rubber mallet idea is very good and would probably eliminate any need for the strap, but I like to be extra safe. This is one of those jobs that the tyre shop are happy to do but I feel better doing myself.
Thanks Chris . I like your no bullshit style . I'm no mechanic , but I'll give basic things a go , so your vids are perfect for me . The little tips are invaluable eg . reset your torque wrench to the lowest setting .
These are Handy Industry lifts. One is air the other electric. They only raise to 30" & 31" (respectively) deck height and that is an inconvenient height for me. However, I have been muddling along with these two lifts for 13 years now so I'm not complaining too loudly. There are many lifts out now that go to 40" and a couple that reach 48" which is the optimal height in my opinion. See Greg Smith Equipment for inexpensive alternatives. Thanks, Chris
as long as you are not applying anti-seize to the conical part of the wheel bolts there is no way that these bolts will work themselves lose. If in doubt you could re-torque them after, lets say, 50 miles of riding. You will see that you won't be able to tighten them much further. actualy, NOT lubing the bolts means there is friction between the threads, it means your torque wrench will click to early... think about it. Remember, the torque specs were written based on brandnew clean bolts!
Hi Chris, just wanted to say thanks for your videos. I know how much time it takes to make them, edit them and upload them. I appreciate it. Cheers, Tush
Thanks for very good video. I'm on the verge of buying my first shaft driven and maybe my first ever BMW (K1300GT '10). Still bit worried about it's kilometers 75 000. I always thought it would be massive head ache to remove wheel, but that's actually a whole lot easier to do than ie. zzr1400 without center stand :)
Nice set of vids Chris. Never understood why BMW fix the disc to the wheel rather than the hub like Honda do. I must admit to being a bit conflicted about grease on the wheel bolts. To me it just doesn't feel right. I just re-torque them occasionally. I suppose they are not stretch bolts so I shouldn't be a big girl about it. :) Keep it up.
Excellent video. I found it valuable. I would have liked a close up of what you discussed on the E-clip on the brake pin. For us newbies that would be helpful.
Dude, Can't thank you enough for this video!! I seriously owe you a beer or 12! One question....you ever run into a situation where you didn't find a spacer between the rear wheel and drive? Swear to all that is holy; I take my wheel off and no spacer (2002 1150RT). I put it back on w/o one and also want to know how much trouble I am in w/o one?
I've been doing this for 15 years and haven't lost a wheel yet. Yes, there was some rube years ago who lost a rear wheel of his GS after replacing the tire. He claimed that it was because he used anti-seize. Had the whole BMW community paranoid! My reply was 'Who the fuck doesn't realize that their rear wheel is loose? I know when my Para-Lever bearings have a slight amount of play in them. Dumbass!". but that's just me :)
Chris, I owned a 2002 R1150rs, this was the best boxer I have ever owned, I took care of it like it was my baby better thin my wife, one day a car Hite me from behind and totaled it, now I'm looking into the BMW K1300s what have you heard about this one. Is there anything I should know is it a good BMW is the clutch strong is the ABS wreath it, and is it hard to set the valves on it . I did all the work on RS myself, and keep up the a very good condition, I put 77k on it and love to ride her, before she was murdered, I like watching your videos keep up the GOOD WORK. Thank You
Hi David, I'm sorry for the loss of your RS. I have very little experience with BMW's newer than 2004 so I can't offer an opinion other than that I prefer the earlier models for reliability and ease of maintenance. I wish you luck, Chris
Chris does the R1100RT-P have tubed or tubeless tires? How hard are the tires to change compared to my R1150GSA, which I have changed twice on my own? Thanks.
It’s FUCKEN Saturday.... I bout shit myself 😂 Anyway, it’s actually fucken Christmas and I got a new set of rear pads and a rotor for my 1999 r1100s so I’m researching oilhead information.
Rear wheel removal on these things is so simple I begin to wonder about security with all the theft that's been going on. I've been looking at my K bike and since there's so little frame exposed, and what is exposed is too close to other parts to get a large chain or lock around, and I don't know what's the best way to lock it up. Why don't new motorcycles come with a heavy duty loop at the bottom of the bike for a big security chain, something welded, or something? So I wonder if the company would be interested in hearing my suggestion. Maybe I will give it a try even though I don't think I will every buy another one since they are not making what I would like.
Hi Chris. I've got a K1200 GT 2003. Number one big end shot along with crank and rod. Planning to replace motor with one from the wreckers. Are there any videos of complete engine removal and install... working my way through the manual (and my own knowledge .. which is not much on BMW's) but a video would be real helpful. By the way ... love the quality of your videos. Thanks mate.
You can certainly find a running replacement machine for less. Part it out. The cost of labor to replace the engine will far exceed the value of the machine. If it is a sentimental journey, good luck!
Hi Chris, thanks for both the front and rear wheel videos, so simple and money saving. I have a question: What would be the way to lower my 2004 r1150rt so I can flat foot? I already lowered the seat and the shock absorber but I still need it to be lower. I'm 5'5" and to be able to efficiently manage the weight of the bike I need to reach the floor with both feet. I purchased this bike while on medical leave after an inguinal hernia surgery and I could not test drive it or even seat on it to balance it and find out if I was going to be able to do it two months later when I could ride it. Now, I'm having difficulty to keep it up when I stop or when I'm handling it, in or out of my parking area. It was too good of a deal to let it pass by. Frank.
I have the same problem (30" instep) but my R1100RT came with a deep pocket custom seat made by Seargent. I had another deep pocket seat made by Corbin for my 83' Honda Magna. A custom deep pocket seat and some thick sole boots/shoes will bring you back to earth.
Crhis - have a related comment/question. Just bought a k1996, R1100 RS, and the back wheel has a cover over the left (bolt) side. There is a hook I'm supposed to be able to remove it with but I don't have any instructions. Since the manuals (none came with the bike) will take a while, could you possibly go through how to use it? I know, I know - but in the process of getting old I have also grown grown very leery of 'press it and play." Thanks.
+Dan DeSalvo Q - "1996, R1100 RS, and the back wheel has a cover over the left (bolt) side. There is a hook I'm supposed to be able to remove it with but I don't have any instructions. " A - Insert the tip of a small flat blade screwdriver into the notch on the cover and pry the cover off to expose the rear wheel lug bolts. Good luck
Chris, thanks for the videos. For someone seriously considering a 2019 K1600 GTL, any advice for picking out 'straight-up, honest dealer/service shop? A perennial question, I know... If I knew you were anywhere near me, I'd get my spot in line pronto!
Hello John, I don't work on that machine; my cut-off is the 2004 model year. If you were looking at an older machine I could help but here all I can do is wish you luck, Chris
Hey Chris, question: I see you use anti seize copper grease on the rear wheel lugs nuts. Do you still torque them down to 105Nm or modify that? Would you still recommend using copper anti seize? I had the local BMW shop tear me a new one when they found out I did that ... would love your official take on it if you wouldn’t mind. Also, my Haynes manual claims 40Nm for the caliper front and back bolts! Seems rather high?! Cheers Richard.
Copper and the same torque; 105 NM / 78 lb. ft. - I've been doing this on every bike I've serviced since 1999. Haven't lost a wheel or thread ever. Scary fairy tales of ass-hats losing their wheels are due to said ass-hats not TORQUEING the lug bolts completely. "Oh it's slippy now; I'll use less torque so it won't strip..." = ass-hat on side of road looking for rear wheel with a pants load of poo.
Chris Harris Awesome, and thanks! I basically told my local stealership to f-off and did what you suggesting your video. You’re the best hope you’re keeping well down south! Richard up in Canuckistan.
Hi Chris, 1991 K75 rider here.....thank the jesus christ of BMW's but hole for you and your videos!! Just took my rear drive off the check/lube and my splines are probably on their way out. Strange though that the front splines (clutch end) look brand new but the rear look screwed. Anyways can you post the contact details of the guy you use who rebuilds these parts? Hoping he will ship to UK? I know it is in one of your videos so I could find it if I persevere but I wanted to say hi too. Thanks mate, stu
I just bought a 99 k1200rs and want to install a battery monitor and cobra radar detector both only on when ignition is on. Can you make a video please. Since this bike is new to me I don't even know where the fuse box is yet. Bought it in January now its march, not warm enough to take it apart to look. AND i am not the electrical guy. So please I need some help. Thank in advance Chris. MM.
BlessedNoob, I'll be covering some K1200RS details but you'll be riding before then. Find a power wire (taillight) and use that wire to be your keyed ignition source for your two low wattage accessories. Brown is ground / earth / negative. Good luck, Chris
@@ChrisR.Harris Thank you so much Chris. I just watched your latest video, dont be discouraged, your shop is just fine and you are the master. Your videos are excellent and you explain everything very well so even I can follow, I like you cursing at bmw. You are the man.
Jeez Chris, you are truly providing a GREAT public service here. I'm not a mechanic, and I would NEVER even consider doing something like this on my own! However, with your guidance and excellent videos I have started doing these chores myself, amazing my wife and everyone else who knows me, and saving lots of $$$. I'd be proud to buy you a beer someday!
Well, thank you Captain.
Brother, you have the BEST Oilhead videos, anywhere, and are my go to 1st choice when seeking guidance of how to go about doing a service, or repair, on my R1150RS. Thank you, bro, you're the best!
Chris, I can't thank you enough for making all of these videos. Quite a bit is over my head but you take the mystery out of the simple things like tire removal. I just wanted to drop you a line to show some appreciation. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Love the details, copper anti-freeze, torque settings, pumping the servo brakes. Well done.
Whew! So glad you gave your blessing for copper anti-seize Chris. Because I live near the Pacific Ocean and have spent a lot of time in boats I have become paranoid about corrosion and electrolysis. I have been using anti-seize on my wheels for years, but I have been a little nervous about ignoring the warnings given in the usual manuals to put the bolts in dry, or risk them losing torque and backing out. I am reassured now that I've seen you do what only makes sense to me.
Hello Chris, Being French, I want to apologize because I use a translation "Google" to speak in your language! I am the proud owner of a BMW 1150 RT 2004, this is my second bike BMW 1150 RT, the first was 2001 and had 168,000 kilometers, it has 118,000 kilometers. Grace to you, and your videos, I got to know my bike, I learned to take care of and maintain, your videos are doing very well and take the time to dwell on points important, but your videos I will never come to give a new breath to my motorcycle, I thank you very much for your help. I think the proper functioning of a motorcycle depends on several important points, elements that are dependent on each other, I'm referring to; ignition, distribution and carburetion to name a few, there's The few areas that you do not have to address, but it y'en 2, it seems to me you: 1 - How to adjust and optimize the ignition from the Hall effect sensor? 2 - How to adjust and optimize the carburetion, through synchronization of butterflies, among others? I am already looking forward to seeing a video on each of the themes !!! Thank you again Eric
ericdpz@gmail.com
Chris, It's time to replace the tires on my bike and I discovered another great series of videos you posted on how to remove/balance/reinstall the wheels on my 2002 BKW R1150RT. Love your videos, especially the ones pertaining to oilheads. With so many RT's on the road, your collection of videos are like golden nuggets. Thanks man for all you've done. Much appreciated.
You're welcome. More oilhead and old K bike videos are coming soon!
Very informative and entertaining! You crack me up while teaching. Need more teachers like you in this world.
This was extremely helpful with my first tire change on a recently acquired r1150rt. Taking off the rear wheel seems simple enough, but it is very often the case that nothing simple is easy. Seeing you walk through the steps and stress the bits that get overlooked gave me a lot of reassurance. It really can be simple _and_ easy when you pay attention to a couple little details. Brilliant videos, Chris! Thanks for the fucking candor, too!.
Thanks a lot for taking the time to video all of these mysteries man. You really have a way of bringing this stuff down to it's lowest common denominator to where a non-mechanic like myself can make sense of it all. Awesome!
I'm glad my video helped!
The Oilheads balance nicely. If you want to add a strap from the front wheel to the cross-bar of the center-stand to prevent the stand from collapsing if the bike gets nudged forward that is not a bad idea.
It should have a very thin spacer/shim. Not as thick as the old K & Oilheads with 3-spoke wheels though. The handling traits without the shim are easier left cornering but sketchy right turns due to the tire being slightly right of center-line. Thanks, Chris
Thanks. I realized that doing a quick wheel removal search on CZcams. Gotta know the basics and that is why I did this short video series. Thanks, Chris
Chris Harris first of all Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Is it quite similar for the K1300S?
Thank you, your videos are so helpful, hope you’re doing well
Chris. Enjoyed your video. You showed some really good pointers and appreciated the hint on not removing the exhaust. Enjoyed the straight forward no bullshit way of how you work and the humor of no phone in the shop. I am an aircraft maintenance technician for a major airline and know my way around tools. But appreciated your reminder to put the torque wrench back to a minimum setting. First time owner of a BMW motorcycle(2007 1200 GT "Flying Brick") and trying to get any info I can on these beautiful machines. Will be watching more of your videos to get a better of how to work on my ride. Thanks. Bill F.
Chris jij bent duidelijk,en een genot om je filmpjes te bekijken, ik leer hier veel van.
Excellent !! I'm new to riding and I just bought a 05' R1200 ST ..I'm going on an extended bike tour with it and this is the stuff one needs to know when miles from a shop or garage.
Just wanted to let you know that after almost 5 years of posting this video it is still very usefull. THANK YOU!
Why thanks for writing legerstee1! More soon.
Chris, I do have a R1100RS and I'm maintaining it myself. Your instruction movies are the best! THX! grt Peter
You're welcome. More videos coming soon.
Great video my friend, Thank You for the information as I needed the rest for the story for putting the rear wheel back on! 👊
Thanks for the videos - Been here several times and it's always nice to see it done and not just read it. Keep up the great work!
If you wonder if you need a spacer behind the rear wheel, try riding down the road and taking your hands off the bars, and see if it goes to the left or right. Think about center of gravity. Do you have to lean to the left or right to go straight down the road with your hands off the bars? If so, you may need some kind of spacer.
Thanks Chris! Another excellent video, and I completed the task without a problem after picking up a nail on a recent ride. After watching a couple times it was 10 minutes off and 10 minutes back on.
Thank you very much for this video, it helped me a great deal and I’m extremely grateful for you taking the time to show this so clearly. Because I’m not as confident with these things I did feel a lot better putting a ratchet strap between the front wheel and the center stand just so I didn’t have to worry about rocking it off the stand when getting the wheel loose.. the rubber mallet idea is very good and would probably eliminate any need for the strap, but I like to be extra safe. This is one of those jobs that the tyre shop are happy to do but I feel better doing myself.
Great job, Andrew!
Watching this in 2020 and loving it ...
I'm still here to reply in 2020, thanks!
Thanks for doing these. Love the teaching method! Straight forward with some comedic touch
Thanks Chris . I like your no bullshit style . I'm no mechanic , but I'll give basic things a go , so your vids are perfect for me . The little tips are invaluable eg . reset your torque wrench to the lowest setting .
you're a great mechanic with a proper sense of humour.. top stuff.
Hi Chris, i hope that you are fine. Thank you very much for this nice Tutorial-Video. Kind Regards from Switzerland.
Danke, Arnold!
Hi Chris, all I wanna say is all the video clips are all useful, you have really helped me a lot, thank you, kindest regards Gerald
These are Handy Industry lifts. One is air the other electric. They only raise to 30" & 31" (respectively) deck height and that is an inconvenient height for me. However, I have been muddling along with these two lifts for 13 years now so I'm not complaining too loudly. There are many lifts out now that go to 40" and a couple that reach 48" which is the optimal height in my opinion. See Greg Smith Equipment for inexpensive alternatives. Thanks, Chris
Thanks for an excellent video Chris. If I lived in the States I would have you as my mechanic! Great instruction.
You makes some useble and good videos👍
Thanks from Sweden
Thanks Tommy, there's more. Stay tuned, Chris
Thanks a bunch Chris! I just bought one of these and it needs a new rear tire.
You can always just go steal one off some other idiots BMW motorcycle. You with a couple of friends shouldn't take more than a minute. Hahaha
Thanks, Chris! The last Beemer I had was a '66 R 50/2 ...Man I wish I'd never sold it!
as long as you are not applying anti-seize to the conical part of the wheel bolts there is no way that these bolts will work themselves lose.
If in doubt you could re-torque them after, lets say, 50 miles of riding.
You will see that you won't be able to tighten them much further.
actualy, NOT lubing the bolts means there is friction between the threads, it means your torque wrench will click to early... think about it.
Remember, the torque specs were written based on brandnew clean bolts!
Hey Chris,
Yet another great video my friend. It's good that you did this as to a lot of people this is not a routine job.
All the best,
Davie.
Thank you and well done from a nonmechanic! Thanks for taking the time, wish you were close to Kentucky
Thanks!
Perfect! Much appreciated, Chris.
Chris - thank you! Saved me a motza in dealer fees. Worked perfectly following your steps (for front and rear tyres). Legend status
gonna do it right now.... seems easy,,,, it never is quite as you think.... but hey. it is what it is.... nice vid thx.
Hi Chris, just wanted to say thanks for your videos. I know how much time it takes to make them, edit them and upload them. I appreciate it. Cheers, Tush
Tank you so mutch. I Wa shure to get the exaust off. You saved me a lot of time....
Thanks for very good video. I'm on the verge of buying my first shaft driven and maybe my first ever BMW (K1300GT '10). Still bit worried about it's kilometers 75 000. I always thought it would be massive head ache to remove wheel, but that's actually a whole lot easier to do than ie. zzr1400 without center stand :)
I know nothing about those newer machines, fortunately!
Nice set of vids Chris.
Never understood why BMW fix the disc to the wheel rather than the hub like Honda do.
I must admit to being a bit conflicted about grease on the wheel bolts. To me it just doesn't feel right. I just re-torque them occasionally. I suppose they are not stretch bolts so I shouldn't be a big girl about it. :)
Keep it up.
Excellent Mate. I like your mechanicing and your NO SHIT style. Keep up these Fantabulous Vids. Everyone needs to get intimate with their bike.
Excellent video. I found it valuable. I would have liked a close up of what you discussed on the E-clip on the brake pin. For us newbies that would be helpful.
Good video. You care about good service and it shows.
Dude, Can't thank you enough for this video!! I seriously owe you a beer or 12! One question....you ever run into a situation where you didn't find a spacer between the rear wheel and drive? Swear to all that is holy; I take my wheel off and no spacer (2002 1150RT). I put it back on w/o one and also want to know how much trouble I am in w/o one?
Great video
Thank you, Mr Scoops!
I've been doing this for 15 years and haven't lost a wheel yet. Yes, there was some rube years ago who lost a rear wheel of his GS after replacing the tire. He claimed that it was because he used anti-seize. Had the whole BMW community paranoid! My reply was 'Who the fuck doesn't realize that their rear wheel is loose? I know when my Para-Lever bearings have a slight amount of play in them. Dumbass!". but that's just me :)
Culling Ze Huurd ! Dummkopfs !
Lol !
Very very helpFul and informative. Really appreciate your effort in making these videos thank you indeed
Will a wheel off a 2002 fit a 2004 BMW r1150rt
Chris, I owned a 2002 R1150rs, this was the best boxer I have ever owned, I took care of it like it was my baby better thin my wife, one day a car Hite me from behind and totaled it, now I'm looking into the BMW K1300s what have you heard about this one. Is there anything I should know is it a good BMW is the clutch strong is the ABS wreath it, and is it hard to set the valves on it . I did all the work on RS myself, and keep up the a very good condition, I put 77k on it and love to ride her, before she was murdered, I like watching your videos keep up the GOOD WORK.
Thank You
Hi David,
I'm sorry for the loss of your RS. I have very little experience with BMW's newer than 2004 so I can't offer an opinion other than that I prefer the earlier models for reliability and ease of maintenance. I wish you luck, Chris
Wonderful, am an owner of bmw k100 model and I find it difficult in getting a good mechanic in nigeria
Caliper won't give to create enough room for new pads. Have to crack reservoir.
Excellent - thankyou.
Thanks for putting this up. Look simple enough.
Great vid again
Thanks Chris
You're welcome, Terry.
Very informative video! Is there any benefit of using copper anti-seize over regular anti-seize?
Thank you. Good video
Thank you
Chris,
I notice you don't use restraining tie downs on the lift. Extra safety or waste of energy?
Ace
so surly and informative! Great tutorials
Chris does the R1100RT-P have tubed or tubeless tires? How hard are the tires to change compared to my R1150GSA, which I have changed twice on my own? Thanks.
Chris your awesome. Forever grateful.
You're welcome Denis, thanks for writing.
Hi Chris thanks for the vid, in Ireland you are what we call a fucking legend. thanks again
I haven't been called that since leaving the porn industry years ago!
Very good thanks man
It’s FUCKEN Saturday....
I bout shit myself 😂
Anyway, it’s actually fucken Christmas and I got a new set of rear pads and a rotor for my 1999 r1100s so I’m researching oilhead information.
nice and smooth ! Thank you for sharing this !
Watched & liked.... and I don't even own an oilhead !
Well that's a good place to start! ;)
Always enjoyable, always useful
Thanks Roy!
Great video for removal, but anti seize on lug bolts?! Yikes
another great video thanks one question what type of lift do u use and how do u like them thanks again keep the video comming
AGAIN! Thanks Chris... ( 2002 1150rt-p) well, no P anymore... :)
You're welcome Douglas!
Top bloke. Like your style!
Excellent tutorial,thank you!!
Rear wheel removal on these things is so simple I begin to wonder about security with all the theft that's been going on.
I've been looking at my K bike and since there's so little frame exposed, and what is exposed is too close to other parts to get a large chain or lock around, and I don't know what's the best way to lock it up.
Why don't new motorcycles come with a heavy duty loop at the bottom of the bike for a big security chain, something welded, or something? So I wonder if the company would be interested in hearing my suggestion. Maybe I will give it a try even though I don't think I will every buy another one since they are not making what I would like.
I put security chain through above torque arm & through rear wheel. Security lock bolt on wheel so rear wheel can not be removed if that helps.
Thanks for the vid! You do good work and make me laugh, too! Cheers!
That's the point, laughter, thanks, Chris!
Thanjs my good man
Hi Chris. I've got a K1200 GT 2003. Number one big end shot along with crank and rod. Planning to replace motor with one from the wreckers. Are there any videos of complete engine removal and install... working my way through the manual (and my own knowledge .. which is not much on BMW's) but a video would be real helpful. By the way ... love the quality of your videos. Thanks mate.
You can certainly find a running replacement machine for less. Part it out. The cost of labor to replace the engine will far exceed the value of the machine. If it is a sentimental journey, good luck!
Thanks Chris ... I hear ya.
Danke 350!
Thanks for great videos, very useful
Where you located?
Awesome vid! Thank you sir!
You're welcome.
Thanks that was esey 🇸🇪
You are welcome. More BMW material each week. Stay tuned, Chris
Great video, thanks
You're welcome.
Hi Chris, thanks for both the front and rear wheel videos, so simple and money saving. I have a question: What would be the way to lower my 2004 r1150rt so I can flat foot? I already lowered the seat and the shock absorber but I still need it to be lower. I'm 5'5" and to be able to efficiently manage the weight of the bike I need to reach the floor with both feet. I purchased this bike while on medical leave after an inguinal hernia surgery and I could not test drive it or even seat on it to balance it and find out if I was going to be able to do it two months later when I could ride it. Now, I'm having difficulty to keep it up when I stop or when I'm handling it, in or out of my parking area. It was too good of a deal to let it pass by. Frank.
I have the same problem (30" instep) but my R1100RT came with a deep pocket custom seat made by Seargent. I had another deep pocket seat made by Corbin for my 83' Honda Magna. A custom deep pocket seat and some thick sole boots/shoes will bring you back to earth.
Good job, simple
Crhis - have a related comment/question. Just bought a k1996, R1100 RS, and the back wheel has a cover over the left (bolt) side. There is a hook I'm supposed to be able to remove it with but I don't have any instructions. Since the manuals (none came with the bike) will take a while, could you possibly go through how to use it? I know, I know - but in the process of getting old I have also grown grown very leery of 'press it and play." Thanks.
+Dan DeSalvo Q - "1996, R1100 RS, and the back wheel has a cover over the left (bolt) side. There is a hook I'm supposed to be able to remove it with but I don't have any instructions. " A - Insert the tip of a small flat blade screwdriver into the notch on the cover and pry the cover off to expose the rear wheel lug bolts. Good luck
How do you remove the back wheel of a f650cs 2003 model an out it back on straight were the belt is straight
I do not work on that model.
Chris, thanks for the videos. For someone seriously considering a 2019 K1600 GTL, any advice for picking out 'straight-up, honest dealer/service shop? A perennial question, I know...
If I knew you were anywhere near me, I'd get my spot in line pronto!
Hello John, I don't work on that machine; my cut-off is the 2004 model year. If you were looking at an older machine I could help but here all I can do is wish you luck, Chris
Chris, nice clear instructions. Have a k1200r. Does it take off same way for front and back?
thanks
I do not work on those newer BMW models so I can not answer that question for you. Good luck.
thank you
Helpful. Thank you.
You're welcome; thanks for watching.
Hey Chris, question: I see you use anti seize copper grease on the rear wheel lugs nuts. Do you still torque them down to 105Nm or modify that? Would you still recommend using copper anti seize? I had the local BMW shop tear me a new one when they found out I did that ... would love your official take on it if you wouldn’t mind.
Also, my Haynes manual claims 40Nm for the caliper front and back bolts! Seems rather high?! Cheers Richard.
Copper and the same torque; 105 NM / 78 lb. ft. - I've been doing this on every bike I've serviced since 1999. Haven't lost a wheel or thread ever. Scary fairy tales of ass-hats losing their wheels are due to said ass-hats not TORQUEING the lug bolts completely. "Oh it's slippy now; I'll use less torque so it won't strip..." = ass-hat on side of road looking for rear wheel with a pants load of poo.
Chris Harris Awesome, and thanks! I basically told my local stealership to f-off and did what you suggesting your video. You’re the best hope you’re keeping well down south! Richard up in Canuckistan.
Hi Chris, 1991 K75 rider here.....thank the jesus christ of BMW's but hole for you and your videos!! Just took my rear drive off the check/lube and my splines are probably on their way out. Strange though that the front splines (clutch end) look brand new but the rear look screwed. Anyways can you post the contact details of the guy you use who rebuilds these parts? Hoping he will ship to UK? I know it is in one of your videos so I could find it if I persevere but I wanted to say hi too. Thanks mate, stu
Sorry Stu, Bruno is not taking any work this year.
+Chris Harris ok thanks for your response. I'll try find someone in the UK now I know that. thanks again
Hi Chris,
Can i fit r1150rt wheels to my r1100rt? Thanks for the informative videos.
Not easily! You would need to change brakes and such at the front. Not a simple bolt on affair, of course, but I wish you luck.
Very helpful. Thank you. Subscribed! :-)
I just bought a 99 k1200rs and want to install a battery monitor and cobra radar detector both only on when ignition is on. Can you make a video please. Since this bike is new to me I don't even know where the fuse box is yet. Bought it in January now its march, not warm enough to take it apart to look. AND i am not the electrical guy. So please I need some help. Thank in advance Chris. MM.
BlessedNoob, I'll be covering some K1200RS details but you'll be riding before then. Find a power wire (taillight) and use that wire to be your keyed ignition source for your two low wattage accessories. Brown is ground / earth / negative. Good luck, Chris
@@ChrisR.Harris Thank you so much Chris. I just watched your latest video, dont be discouraged, your shop is just fine and you are the master. Your videos are excellent and you explain everything very well so even I can follow, I like you cursing at bmw. You are the man.
@@BlessedNoob I'm not discouraged at all, but thanks. Stay tuned for more, Chris